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Forearm Rail: As previously noted, I wasn't happy with the included resin rail. Modeled a replacement and 3D printed. I don't feel PLA is a resilient material for trooping so I molded this and will be casting using semi-rigid resin. I included the original kit rail for comparison.

Hi James, welcome to FISD. I could suggest to contact Ross Walmsley @Ross8008 at RWA Creations, I think He has Armor pieces for big Guys. Hope this can help you . Cheers

Very nice cast. Great work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You can take the ends off and cut them there. No need to wrestle the whole thing back on

Thanks folks! Going to build a ROTK hopefully to EIB.

https://www.comingsoon.net/tv/trailers/1120877-star-wars-underworld-test-footage-released Could these be the last batch of TK armor produced while George Lucas was still in charge? I want to say they could be something new, though I'm not well up on my TK difference studies. The right eye has the ANH bulge. The Back chest plate retains the 'O- I I' pattern, while on others it almost looks like a 'O-[ ]' . It's hard to see the details on the indents to see if they're sharp or smooth. There doesn't look to be any mold deformities.

Congratulations again trooper

hahaha, not by choice, just by circumstance. hahaha. Thanks Mario. Wish Anovos could master actually making their product and responding to their customers. hahaha

You have become an Anovos kit master armorer Sir.!!

Appreciate it Mario. Thank you so much. I really like this kit a lot. A lot and super excited about it.

Congratulations mate!!! once again, well done Sir!!

Hi again Ardeshir and thank you for your HWT Centurion application - let´s get to it! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion Nr 3!!! On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. You have done great work on your armor and we have absolutely nothing to add Well done Sir

Love the sharp detail, good job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brow trim is a little uneven, in the middle, you'll notice in the reference lower down that hardly any white is seen between the brow and eyes, gives the meaner Hero look Also you could touch up the ends of the frown/teeth at the moment they are a little short and appear to be angling upwards For the traps and tears to make them look "hand painted" you could just go over with a black permanent marker, a little trick to save having to purchase more stickers, but hand painting from scratch still looks the best

Great work

Good Luck!

Backplate doesn’t overlap the kidney so you are good there. Supposed to be a minimal gap there. As for your chest and ab overlap goes, you could try and replace with some larger armor like RTMOD or AM, but color match can be an issue there. I would recommend cutting the cod and lowering it down. The gap will be covered by the belt.

I don't think it was even the pilot - I think it is just test footage to gauge cost and technology. At least I hope that is all it was. It was... not great.

I'm loving this discussion. Great work.

Thanks brother. Appreciate it.

Ukswrath, good question and I do not think they would. I am confident it is black. So, researching my next build over on Pathfinders and found this image: This looks like a screen used ROTK back with the corset closure; however, I can not confirm its origin. I am perplexed that another detachment would have information about the ROTK that we do not have here on FISD.I figure it most likely came to light based on a search for information about the Shore Trooper. Regardless, if this is in fact a ligament image of a how the actual back closure system works then The5thhorseman was correct about this particular part. Then there is this: Even on a Shore Trooper the elastic strap that connects the top of the shoulder bell to the shoulder strap looks to be black and not brown. The real danger of researching something is that you may uncover something that does not agree with your position. If you have integrity, you disclose it all regardless of the possible circumstances, Kind of a Jack Reacher approach. Anyway, I said that I have not seen any evidence of a bungie cored closure system for the biceps, forearms, thighs, and shins. I was wrong, we all have seen it and once you see it, it all makes sense. Look at these images: In this image notice the thin white line (red circle) in the gap. This is the suspected “bungie” closure system. And here is another bicep on a Shore Trooper. Also notice how the top ½ of the bicep is flush to the arm and the bottom ½ is skewed. This would suggest that the bungie is pulling the top part closed and the bottom is not under as much tension. So, what can be inferred by these images and whatever conversations Mr. Paul and others had with people who actually worked on Rogue One is that a bungie system was used to hold these parts closed. Here is a picture of Mr. Paul’s 3D file printed Bicep and notice the attachment points on the inside (Yellow Circle). I drew a green line where the bungie cord would be located. Although this is not completely confirmed that this is how it was done, I feel that there is enough evidence here to presume that Mr. Paul got this correct. It would also stand to reason that if this is the method used for the bicep, then it is probably the method used for the forearms, thighs, and shins as well. This is Mr. Paul’s interpretation of how the shoulder bell and bicep connect and it most likely is also correct. So, if all this stuff is correct, we get a better understanding of how these costumes come together. Keep in mind that only part of this information can be confirmed, and the rest is interpretation and we here in FISD need confirmation but it’s a good start. On a odd note, apparently the RO CRLs for the shore trooper identify the Rogue One version of the E-11 as the E-11B? I have no idea where they are getting that from. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:ST_captain Anyway, thanks for the interest.

thanks, that really helps....I will try this before venturing to buy replacements. Lesson learned....do it yourself.

Definitely look up an Elegoo Mars. It's a resin 3D printer. It's around $360 Canadian or closer to $230 US. Can print close to 0.02mm pixel size. Almost no layer lines, and any that are there easily sand off. I just finished a blaster from the Mandalorian show and you can't tell it's 3D printed. Only down side is that the resin is messy and the build volume is fairly small. It uses a cell phone LCD panel as a shutter with a UV light underneath. Fairly simple. So the build volume is something like 4.5"x2.5"x6". But man, if I had this while I was building my blaster, you could just fabricate the parts in a cad program and print them out. Your custom clip, the bolt, the sight.....everything that wasn't exactly right on the Doopy's kit could be printed. And then, if you design an impressive part, people sell the digital files on ETSY. Or if you aren't good with CAD, you just find free STL files or buy them online. It's a game changer, for sure. Mark

Welcome! Glad to have you. TK kits are kits! So for "Scratch" work, you wont have to worry about casting or molding your own set of armor. Armor vendors sell kits for Helmets, Blasters, Gear and Armor itself. They come in all sorts of materials and styles. For most, you can count on wanting to have some garage / workshop space. Cutting out the armor from the sheets, glue, painting, riveting, etc. T-Jay's comment has great information for you to check out! If you don't want to build a TK kit; You could come across a member of your 501st local Garrison (Star Cross Garrison for Sydney) who is selling a suit / kit they no longer want. Or a member on this site. Check to find a Vendor who does Commission work, where they will assemble your kit for you. Though, you will still have to do fitting / changes / work, as your body isn't there. If those two don't work, you could purchase a kit and ask us here, and your Local Garrison! Local 501st members may offer to help you in person with your kit. Rough idea for cost: 1,400.00 - 1,500.00 USD~ Where'd I get my number from? My Paypal bills tallied up more or less, and a bit more for stuff I will be getting for my TK, in a week+.

Made my belt with removable dropboxes, and the holes are not easy to see with my pouches on but due to my back armor. I personally don't like it to much and covering it up til I loose enough weight where the back looks good.

Yes you can have two costumes from the one armour, just make sure you meet the CRL for both. The belt for example. TK has drop boxes and a holster HWT, no drop boxes and no holster nor can it have the holes where the holster is mounted so you need some extra parts. Two belts is easiest. Also no weathering on a TK but you can make removable weathering. One technique is the use a newspaper and run the pages against the armour. The ink will transfer but it can simply be polished off when you decide to troop as a Shiny what’re TK. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably some rebels messing with your armor...

So I checked out Armorsmith, that has a picture of a MacBook on the home page, paid my $30.....to find out it’s PC only

Hey, welcome back. Glad you are moving forward and your progress looks good.

Here you can see AP on different size customers, starting from smallest Stacy who is 5.4" second 5.7" and the rest 5.9" +

Outstanding job on your build Jesse . This is what the FISD is all about right here.

Could have been a cheaper option at the time rather then getting someone to redesign and make new sets of armor, it was a pilot after all

The bell strap looks black to me as well, maybe a faded or off shade of black but still black. Maybe they used different supplier which could lead to different tones, who knows. My only question was, echoing you Jeff, why would the studio use a strapping color that doesn't closely match the under suit, especially in a high visible area? Is it one off, an anomaly? Inquiring minds want to know? lol

Well life got in the way, but progress is being made. I'm still working on the bucket modifications, but I've also trimmed all armor, built forearms, biceps, and shins, thighs are still curing and I'm on to strapping. I'm just going Level 1, maybe fit it up later, or try for Level 2/3 with a new kit once I take this one dirty for TD. Here are some updated images. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Congratulations, Jesse!!! The blaster looks fantastic!!! I hadn't "checked in" for a while either (life, I know, it's interruptive..) and I was surprised to see a conclusion to the saga of Dracotroopers blaster. I picked up an Elegoo Mars resin 3D printer and it's amazing. If I had that while I was still working on my blaster it would be a whole different build. No more fabricating parts.....just print them out of resin in perfect quality. :-) Anyway, congrats again!!! Looking forward to your (eventual) trooper build!! Mark

Saw that episode. Really love the Jet trooper grenade launcher blaster.

I think you need to get clarification from the GML as to what they want you to do. Is it possible to meet up with the GML? Maybe get some hands on guidance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Junos, I have seen other images with the E-11s having slings on them in Rogue One. The image I posted above was from San Diego Comic Con. If you are looking for more images, try the deleted scenes from the beach battle on Scarif.

KeeptheBox, thank you. Giskard8, thank you. Ukswrath, thank you. Thankfully I started this thread off with “Please keep in mind that my knowledge on this subject is limited and I do not have any experience with OT TKs.” First, thank you The5thHorseman for responding with specific information and although you do provide some information I have not heard before, several times you seem to accuse me of complaining and just plain stating things that are wrong. I would be remised if I did not respond and I will do so with the best of intentions in an attempt to clarify what you have said that I said or what you have asserted here. I do realize how things may come off sounding when they are written down so let me first state that I am not attacking you, simply responding. You stated “All parts are made of polyurethane resin, not "plastic". They're all made by vacuum casting using silicone molds and not injection molded.” I did state that “I have heard (although I do not know for sure) that the RO TKs were injection molded.” Based on your information, which I have not been able to confirm anywhere, I may be wrong about the process; however, “Polyurethane is a plastic material, which exists in various forms. It can be tailored to be either rigid or flexible, and is the material of choice for a broad range of end-user applications (1).” “All limbs are three parts construction: outer half, inner half, and front cover stripe (the top rim, sniper knee plate and ammo stripe for the greaves and thigh are separate parts too).” Again, nothing to confirm this but I do not disagree with your assertion and freely admit that my assumption that the cover strips and top rims were molded with the parts may be incorrect and these parts may indeed be separate parts. “The strap that connects the shoulder bell to the support bracket isn't black but brown.” Well in this pic from Celebration it sure looks black to me, so unless you can provide some other information I will stick with it being black. “You seem to complain about the fact that there's very little known about how these costume were assembled but most of it has been covered already.” Covered where? Not here on FISD in the RO section and although I agree that Mr. Paul has done a ton of work on the Crystal Patrol Pack and Shore Trooper, I do not see a lot of information on his FB page about the TKs. While there are many similarities between the Shore Trooper and the ROTK, they are not the same thing. I agree that a lot of the manufacturing process may have been the same, but the color of strapping? Why would they use brown on a TK when we can clearly see that the nylon on the drop boxes and thighs is black? “…correct closure system for forearms and biceps with bungie ropes too… corset closure at the back of the abdomen…) Again, I have not been able to locate any information that suggest any closure system, let alone bungie ropes or the corset. If you can provide some reference to this I would love to explore this. “…whole interaction between the spine plate, rear hard belt…” Yes I did leave that out and I have seen what Mr. Paul wrote about it as well as the sizing of the spine cover plate. I have nothing to dispute with this, nor did I state anything contrary. “…TD bracket and TD…” well I stated “The hard plastic back belt has a mounting base for the Thermal Detonator molded into it.” I have not found any information that the mount was not molded with the back belt and the images do not show any kind of seam between the mount and the back belt so I am not sure what you are saying I said was incorrect about this? “Then there's also few mistakes about the OT stormtrooper. The construction method you seem to described in your first post is an overlap with cover stripe which correspond to neither ANH or ROTJ.” Actually, “Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded in to the part. (2)” Regardless, what I said was “The parts are sized and glued together end to end. A cover strip is glued over the seam.” I will point out that I clearly stated “End to End” which is a butt joint not an overlap joint. Anyway, as I stated at the beginning of this thread, the goal here was to provide context for someone who is deciding between the OT TK and the RO TK. I did not want this thread to turn into a discussion of semantics. Even when Parquette posted his comments about using reference images rather than 501st approved costumes, I thought that I should stick with the costumes since the target audience of this thread would be building fan made costumes; however, I decided to go with the reference images and let the reader decide what they wanted to do. The5thHorseman, I thank you for providing additional information and I hope that my response does not come off brash. I truly do want to know more about these costumes and would love to continue our dialogue. I hope this helps anyone who is seeking more information about “what are the differences between the OT Stormtroopers and the Rogue One Stormtroopers. (1) http://www.polyurethanes.org/en/what-is-it (2) https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

Hi folks, I have some final pictures to show as promised. The pictures are taken outside with natural day light. Maybe the variations in paint can be more readily seen this way. You will notice I need to touch-up the grip; I had only hit the grip with a heat gun to cure the gloss black paint. As such, I think that is what caused the paint to wear off over light wear as it did. More coats will help as well. And so hitting the nearly 2-1/2 year mark on this build; I can say I am thoroughly happy with it now. Here are some lessons learned. I had bit more than I can chew - trying to resemble it as close to the SMG as possible with custom builds of components AND getting BlastFX installed. Also to mention, with Tino's E-11 Completion set and a few of Chris's parts from Shapeways, I positioned myself ahead with quality parts as well. Especially so as I have not built anything like this before, I ultimately failed on the electronics install. For those looking to build, I recommend to set build goals based on your skill level and also set a deadline, or else you may very well stall on your build and make major mistakes, like I did. That being said though, I had allot of fun and learned so much. I am also grateful for the FISD community who provided resources, tips, to me, you know who you are. Thanks for following and have a great day!!

Hey all I am working on a phase 0 darktrooper suit from Battlefront 1 and 2. I really like this design been wanting to make one for ages. I've got a build thread on the rpf that I will be updating regularly. Anyone interested please have a look here: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=263170&p=4016541#post4016541

Hi all, I discovered thanks to Tino's second E-11 build thread that the rear of the scope foot is to sit flush against the scope rail on the right side. I accomodated by elongating my drilled holes. Here is a picture of the rear scope foot in its final position. I also raised the sitting of my Hengstler Counter by about 4 mm. It was sitting a bit low to my liking before, with its bottom only 1 to 1-1/2 mm from the folding stock fork below. Final prop master install - Power Cylinders. Chose to install it parallel to the reiever scope. Kept it close to the edge of the magazine well edge. I was intentional to keep the rear cylinders a few mm away from the magazine release button; to ensure it looked nicely laid out and not crouded. Final position of Power Cylinders without the support guides looks good I think! Here's a side shot of the blaster. Will follow through with some light weathering now =) Final pictures to follow

Hi all, Made some good headway on installing my scope. Good Tino's completion set provided me with the right screws for the job. Two larger screws from the completion set for the scope installation; a smaller screw for the installation of the Hengstler Counter. Smaller I think so the head doesn't hit the reciever tube when it's installed I think. E-11 Reference states the rear foot of the scope to allign with the folding stock pivot, check. I ran out of time tonight to install the Counter. Oh ...oh, so close for the finish. Now have that tiny bolt and nut to secure the back end of the scope rail.

At your height and weight you will fit any screen lineage suits so AP, RS, TM, ATA will all fit ok Mark (AP)

You can find Paul here https://www.facebook.com/TMProps/. He's often on the board as well (@troopermaster)

Hi James, Yes, the Swede (Daniel) has you covered. I’d agree with attempting to reposition the faceplate. The below shows where the eyes would usually sit in relation to the line on the rear of the helmet; You’re not alone here, hence me asking for side on shots. Quite a few helmets of late have been built the same way which leads to brow and position issues. You’ve caught it early so should be okay to experiment with the position. Based on your latest attempt, I’d perhaps suggest trying the face plate a little higher, as below; I’d also agree regarding the ears - the approximate lines that you marked look much better, however, I’d agree that you try the faceplate reposition first, then have a dummy run with the ears that you’ve already cut. You might not even need to start on the spare pair. ;-) Keep up the good work. [emoji1303]

I'm 6'6, 220, 36" waist. I bought the AM 2.0 kit and while there are some gaps, I feel that it fits me okay. I'm in the process of taking better pictures for approval. I might eventually get the RT Mod XL Shins, but this will have to do for now.

Hi all, I'm new around here and have been pondering the same dilemma: I'm 6'4" and of average build. I've been looking at getting perhaps a full commission from RS because they ask for measurements, but I'm not sure how much they can do for height. Can anyone give feedback on RS for tall troopers?

Welcome to the FISD! I'm 6'2" and about 160lbs.

As above Paul Troopermaster is six foot himself so don't think you will be disappointed.