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About Dracotrooper

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  • Location
    Westcoast, Canada
  • Interests
    SW costume interest: ANH Stunt TK, ESB Boba Fett

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  • 501st Unit
    Outer Rim Garrison

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  1. This is a marvelous shot! And I know the satisfaction of that 'click' you mentioned [emoji6] Between this and revealing sharp text markings ... fieldmarshalls parts are impressive as ever Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
  2. Absolutely gorgeous seeing the components laid out like that! That's eye candy for you! Glad you received all parts and excited for the journey ahead
  3. Incredible work here Bret! That level of detail is a tier up above the rest!! Good to know about brown stuff being better adhesion to metal. I've always worked with green stuff so need to add glue to adhere it to metal than to be safe. I also attempted to fashion that lever piece (so very tiny eh?) and did so with green stuff. Good on you for getting this far; and feel sorry about the breakage. As far as I can tell, I think this is the first attempt at making from scratch, the inner tubing for the folding stock - way to blaze a trail here
  4. Oh my goodness!! A big salute to you for such fine precision work in and around your grip component [emoji106] I'm sure your workbench is the envy of many, including myself. You gave me goosebumps when I saw how you are going about modeling the trigger; I am so familiar with your method [emoji6] Bravo for such a clean rotary switch housing; keep up the great work ... Oh, elated for you that you have the Imperial March in your soundFX - way and SO very cool! Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
  5. Oh, if it is those speaker wires, mine also broke off from my speakers. Maybe get the connection nice and tight with heat shrink tubing.
  6. Really looking forward to your build Marko. The pulling of the charge handle for different electronic effects is very ambitious indeed. Not to mention upgrading the folding stock to make it functional. A steady step-by-step approach will prove very valuable given the complexity of your build. I wish you all the best and look forward to your posts.
  7. Really stand-up work here Marko - It really is incredible to see the doopydoos receiver tube outfitted with such a quality folding stock piece - you're definitely taking your resin blaster to high heights! Keep up the quality workmanship
  8. Focus in the minucia continues - next up is placing the serial number on my exposed bolt. I also want to add a tad of green stuff to round off the two corners of the extractor/plunger housing. Thanks again for the good cheer! Here's a quality picture from the reference guide.... Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  9. Small upgrade- got the clearing strip on the exposed bolt on. I trimmed the width a little bit of a large zap strap I cut to length. The underside of the strap has ridges so j used this side to take in the e-6000 glue. Also sanded the aluminum on the exposed bolt for better adhesion. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks for sharing that video about the selector switch, really cool. Really nice to see how your frosted acrylic tubing working good like that, excellent concept and execution! Looking forward to your next update! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  11. That's right! I cannot remember what toy this orange piece came from ... now I remember, inner workings of a dinosaur claw tool lol! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  12. Months ago now, I dremeled away my exposed bolt to make way for installing BlastFX. Now although without the electronics, I still need to cover the hole up. I had already fashioned a thin aluminum plate ... today, made way for getting the extractor and plunger in place. I have the more complex shape completed but still need to place the short rod in the narrow compartment. I found a very close look a like piece from my kids broken toys - this is a nice spinoff from being a dad. I trimmed the piece a bit. I then cut in and fashioned a groove in the plate to hold it and enough room for the rod piece later. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  13. Thanks PatrickM - I used 3M Bondo Spot putty. It lays on like toothpaste and when you use a flat surface to push against it, it fills in the uneven surfaces beneath it. After which it dries fairly quickly and you can sand away with little effort, unlike the bulkiness of the ordinary Bondo which you have to break a sweat to sand down. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  14. Hello all! Some more progress...this time on my end cap. After noticing the well that fitted the ring retainer was done too wide, in-filled it with green stuff then automotive filler putty to smooth it out. After gray primer, steel-like paint level, then finally flat black, I ended the paint job with flat clearcoat to seal in the black washing of the d-ring and the slight wear and tear effect of sanding away the black to reveal the 'steel' underneath. Ah, kinda rushed on the clear coat application...drippy at parts. Oh well! In the pictures, I compared mine with fieldmarshalls fine fine replica, great reference! It was nice sanding away Tino's d-ring to remove the gold external coating on it [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
  15. Wow wow wow - most excellent progress. Very nice precision work here on installing electronics for the selector switch and on that acorn nut part. Boy, I certainly feel for your apprehensions; great execution!! IMO, frosting the acrylic tubing dissipates the light where as keeping it clear and adding krinkled celephane carrie's the light down the tube ... but with LED strips on this BlastFX v2, light is evenly distributed down the tube - so if a milky light effect is your cup of tea, no doubt the effect will be sweet. Keep up the superb work! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
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