gmrhodes13

Do one side at a time, wait until completely dry before gluing the other side. Apply downwards pressure on the top of the cover strip, the plastic will flex quite a bit, then wrap tape around tightly. Once you have one piece of tape wrapped around push downwards again then apply tape, your first piece may be a little slack now so you can retighten. You also may want to just clean up the ends of your cover strips, look a little rough and could catch when moving. @ukswrath bicep assembly See how much tape I needed to use on some sections of this build I also have a "how to" in one of my commission build threads, again lots of tap And in case it hasn't been mentioned you need to rough up both armor pieces and coverstrips with some coarse sandpaper, this will help the glue to adhere better

That's pretty standard on a lot of armor, you will find once you start gluing coverstrips on the ovals will flatten a little more. You can need a bit of pressure to get the covers strips to lay flat, clamps, magnets and tape can help, for the really bad ones push down first so they are rounder and apply the tape, it should hold once the glue has dried. You also need at least 24 hours for E6000 to dry properly and any pieces under pressure need a little more so 48 to 72 hours is best. It can be a slow process but there's always other things you can be doing while waiting for glue to dry If once you have one side glued you can check to see how much the other side will come flat, if you still can't get them right they may need a hot water bath. Here's another AP thread that talks about oval forearms, may be of help

For folding you can also hold each side with pliers, add some plastic to the teeth areas so they don't bite in then fold. The hardest I found was ATA armor, that stuff is thick and you really have to score well.

Great work One small color detail on the heavy blaster is the rear sight is white not black like the standard blasters

Some great research there, looking forward to seeing the progress

Yep a little more elbow grease, I use 120 also

Costuming and Builds First Order (501st Approved) - TFA Stormtrooper - TFA Build Threads Page 3 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 2 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 1 Completed - gmrhodes13 SECTION COMPLETED

You will find that the knife blade with blunt pretty quickly, with a nice sharp blade you only have to score a couple of times then bend and snap. You may also notice when you bend and snap you are left with a little edge, you can easily run some sandpaper down this edge or turn the cover strip over so it's not seen.

Nice work, looking great

Very nice and if you want to get really screen accurate you have the outside button covers slightly off center, slightly more towards the ends (note centered is fine all the way to L3 ) And when you come to add your holster

Nice work, looks great, here is mine for comparison, I went a little larger with the top left box to more match in with references Just watch the the final height placement when worn, a little hard to see from the angle of your photo, height placement did come up in an EIB application some time ago

I don't think many would have tried to do this before, most of the builds I have seen normally use a head mic or a wireless mic, most of the wireless setups appear to be around the same size. When you think we are only trying to add a mic to use in a helmet, obviously fitting into a mask is a little harder. Like anything though it's a bit hard to know how big the internals would be without opening one up. An option with a wired mic would be drill a small hole in the mask, insert the mic and then seal the hole with waterproof silicon, I would think this should work. Doing a quick google search I did find a few items but these are for paper masks https://www.amazon.com/Maspeaker-Voice-Amplifier-Face-Masks/dp/B09DP773TG Other masks with mics http://www.sea.com.au/docs_menu/docs/bro_sea_smalltalk.pdf https://www.flighthelmet.com/blog/mask-microphone-great-for-high-wind.html https://www.weaponoutfitters.com/ops-core-sotr-no-mic.html

I found I had to apply a little heat to the calves to give them a small twist, now this is not without danger and you would need to practice on other ABS plastic, many use a hot water bath but I use a heat gun but with caution you can go from slightly moving to molten mess. Some shin issue threads Cricket used a magnetic closure, I've seen a few do this Cricket also did some hot water bath adjustments to the armor, you may pick up some tips References for mobility cuts

Hello and welcome aboard, I would suggest contacting your local garrison, many do armor build days and have members experienced in building, you can search for garrisons here https://www.501st.com/maps/

Shame the lower shin decals don't fill the whole area, the decals probably right sized just the recessed area too long Reference

Very nice, I'm a little spread out through various rooms, I have to cull the collection at some stage Yes I've noticed the no holster a few times, but some still do, my older 6" Black Series had holsters but more recent ones don't well except TKC which does have a holster, I'm still awaiting a few other recent Black Series TK's to compare this with. It is also the same 3.75" figures, older had holsters, newer not so much

Costuming and Builds First Order (501st Approved) - TFA Stormtrooper - TFA Build Threads Page 5 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 4 Completed - gmrhodes13

You will find you will receive a lot of feedback if you post a build thread to our forum, lots of knowledgable builders ready to offer advice. As advised already check out some of the previous R1 build threads, a couple that stand out:

The trooper survival guide would.better explain the differences https://databank.501st.com/databank/TrooperSurvivalGuide

As I say it's entirely up to your garrison command, ultimately your GCO has the final say as to what they allow at local non canon events (who I may add can overule a GML), some garrisons aren't as strict as others. For canon events yes every accessory would need approval by the GML or GCO and be from that particular costumes CRL. Locally we have very few canon events but if we ever do only CRL approved accessories are allowed.

Officially correct to a point, that's only for legion approval and official canon LFL events, any non official events it's entirely up to your garrison command and what there rules are, many allow non canon equipment, hence why some are seen wearing pauldrons from time to time

Very nice, I have a printed version on my bench (never ending to do list) just waiting for some electronics, was going to add small screens behind the lenses with a video loop that can play a scene or zooming in or out, still haven't worked that part out.

Looks like you have cleared your first 10 troops so you could request a troop award here Also if you could please edit your first post and add the amount of completed troops to the title that would be great as it helps with tracking Troop log title examples:

Really depends how wide you would need the cover strips, if it's only a few mm you should be fine. Note screen forearms do have some gap between the ridges and cover strips

Hello and welcome aboard, you will find a lot of info in the Rebels Stormtrooper area https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/165-star-wars-rebels/ You could contact WTF (Walt's Trooper Factory) on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/waltstrooperfactory The 501st legion has a base standard for costume acceptance, these are the CRL's (costume reference library) you can find Rebels TK here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rebels There are currently only 5 approved Rebels TK's so as you can imagine there aren't a lot of build threads to follow here are a few https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/198-rebels-tk-build-threads/ This is also a great thread full of other info for Stormtroopers