gmrhodes13

Hello and welcome aboard, some information for you to get you started

That's not the right link, that link is to your legion forum profile, have a read of the first post in this thread as it explains how to find your membership profile

Only difference I find between painted and non painted is the after care, I have soft pouches for all my armor so they don't get chipped or scratched in transport. The occasional crack can happen with painted and non painted but sometimes the painted can chip which is a little harder to fix. There is also some of the details which need work, forearms, yoke to back and abdomen, all need either filling with automotive filler then painted or filled with ABS paste sanded and compound polish. All the first runs of the ANOVOS FOTK's where painted as they also needed joining in quite a few places. Some have built their DN suits with ABS paste and I've seen a few fully painted, there are really pros and cons for both so it's entirely up to each individual how they want to build and finish.

Legs: Thigh front and back 20mm Shin front 20mm, rear 25mm

I use these for snap plate holders, especially when using nylon snap plates, clamp one piece on either side Just watch trimming the ends of the cover strips I noticed this one looked a little round, screen where just trimmed angled

This is my trick for stubborn snap posts A block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around can help when sanding parts to get straight lines/cuts.

Came out a treat, you must be happy with that.

There isn't much weird we haven't seen before It's much the same way as using a pencil wood scribe, I'm pretty simple so a ruler and pencil does fine.

I would also suggest looking through our gallery sections if you are thinking of any other supplier, there are a lot of boots which look close at first glance but can have other issues, front stitching, low elastic on sides, large heel and so on. Boots

Hello and welcome aboard and thank you once again for the 3D files

Easier to trim a little more off than try to add it back

Also don't cut into corners, best to drill then cut, the round hole should prevent splitting

Did you read the links I posed?

Sounds like you have done your research. Detonator also different between the two versions. TFA TLJ has an inner pipe/tube with black areas of the housing cut out Some links for you: Great Anovos build by Ukswrath Also DN build by TheRascalKing Metal holster Rubber gaskets http://www.tandaworkshop.com/ https://www.facebook.com/Thorsson-Associates-Workshop-112076042142986 Resin hand guards There are some small differences in the blaster so check visual references from the movies Looking forward to seeing your build

Any foreign material mixed can change the color of the ABS paste.

I like to use a pencil, mark in a few places then lay some masking tape as a guide. Not sure if you have painted or stickers, if it's stickers you can lift with a knife an pull off, if painted you could use some mineral turpentine and buff any residue with some polish

Oh happy days

Should do the trick. If you have any issues with the posts not squashing enough and locking (I had a really bad batch once) I came up with a work around

Rough guide on strapping and placement, some use double snaps in case one fails. Chest to backplate A couple of threads for you interest Snap upper right corner \ Snaps posterior plate Rivets For Level 3, three domed head bifurcated (split) rivets approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter are present on the left side of the abdomen and kidney and are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and are painted white. Note that the measurements are from the center of the rivet. Rivets on both kidney and ab should line up horizontally. Interior pic showing split (bifurcated) rivets For Level 3, a single split rivet is present on the lower tab of the abdomen armor (cod) This can have a brass or chrome finish, but cannot be painted. For Level 2, The thigh ammo belt is attached with one solid head rivet on each side, painted white, and located in the upper corner fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivets shall be cap or split style rivets. No pop rivets are allowed. Rivets should be approximately 5/16ths (8mm) in diameter (exterior).

I think you will find that gap will be reduced once worn

Vest also seen in this cut scene with red pauldron and shoulder pouch Quite a few vests Some miss the riot troopers in that scene Oh and there's the odd black shoulder bell

Our Blastech section is full of different version E-11's and info https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/116-blastech-e11/, down the rabbit hole you go

Hello and welcome. Setup for ANH Luke or an ESB as both versions have no hengstler or cylinders May have come from RS props and SDS have ESB version resin blasters I'll let the UK lads chime in with it's possible origin

Great to hear you have worked it out