CableGuy

Super stuff, Chris. That slight angle on the brow makes a big difference (to my eyes). The only other thing that, to me, is still not right is the frown/teeth. To my eyes, the holes are too big and there is not enough depth to the cutouts. (Also, don’t forget that the 5th hole either side was very rarely cut out on screen. Only up to 4 holes per side). Apologies for the poor quality of the below, but, hopefully it illustrates my thoughts. Blue line shows roughly where the holes should stop. Notice on the reference photos that the helmet has depth beyond the teeth. Here is a very crude mock up of how the teeth could be bigger in places making the holes smaller.

Hi Tim, I’d certainly avoid trying to put it in your helmet. They are very loud and I’m pretty sure you’d do some damage to your hearing. Personally, I put mine around my neck and it sits behind the chest plate. To me, this is ideal. I bought my TRamp and went with the remote. Thing is, apart from playing around with it when I opened the box, I’ve never used it. Not once. Reason being, the loops and samples can be very restrictive on a troop. If a child asks you a question, answering with a sample Is unlikely to make sense. For me, I try to act the character and interact with people on a case by case basis. Here’s my thoughts on voice acting and using tramp; Here, you’ll see me kitting up and wearing the tramp unit around my neck; Hope this helps. :-)

Hi Chris, Had some time to do some side by sides. Here’s my feedback. :-) Basis side by side; Brow line; Whilst the rubber trim plays a small part here, the actual “cap” has a slight rise when it passes the ear cap. The line runs from the back to the front, then takes a slight upward angle beyond the ear. Also, from your left side image, the line from the rear of the helmet doesn’t carry on to the brow - it seems to be offset. Ear caps: They appear to be quite a bit thicker than the originals. The grey rectangular part on the left ear appears to be at the wrong angle. (See bottom right image). Also note the screws/ear caps usually line up with the rear line of the trap. It looks like the rear “tube” is not quite as curved as the originals. Note the flow of the original tubes from front to back. The below difference might be purely down to the ear thickness and alignment. Hope that helps. :-)

Hey Chris, Looks like a good step up on the previous version. More organic, for sure. Main things for me would be as below; Frown height and shape of the teeth/size of the cutouts don’t look right to my eyes. Also, the furthest edges seem to droop down. Traps and tears; As below, the traps and tears look quite “squared”. These could be softer curves for more ANH appearance. Brow line on ANH usually raises up a touch. If you have pictures of your design from side on, I’ll highlight it. Ears are also quite “squared” compared with original trilogy. Hope that helps. Nice progress from version one. Looking much more OT and less R1. [emoji1303]

Lovely work so far. :-)

Well done, Rich. Excellent work. :-)

Well done, Mark. :-)

Exactly right, and excellent to see how far you’re looking into it. :-) There was definitely a colour discrepancy on screen. Here’s Ford Diamond White against ABS in natural light. Very close to those images you shared. :-)

Nice work. [emoji122] The low brow makes sense now. [emoji1303]

Nice, Greg. (From the photo) that colour and finish looks much better. :-)

Hi Greg, I’ve not seen anyone else apply an clear acrylic layer before. Is there a plan behind that? Usually, I believe most folks go for something like this: Oxide red primer applied to HDPE helmet (no ears) White primer applied Ears added and gloss white applied There’s debate over when the ears were added, however, I won’t go into that here. Regarding the gloss finish, I’ve done a few of these now and find that it’s all about how far you ouch the spray paint. It’s a very fine balance of layering the spray paint to the point JUST BEFORE it runs all over the helmet. Too little and the pain looks quite dull. Too much and you get lots of streaks. Now, obviously the originals DID have a few streaks, so this is not the end of the world. I’m sure you’ve already seen this, but, I discuss the painting in this video; The finish on this one was purely spray paints - no clear lacquer, no sanding etc. :-) No

Hi Greg, I keep hearing Ford Diamond White but I don’t know for sure if that is a) the closest match from current paints available, or the actual shade used for the originals. As it stands, the photo of yours makes the sprayed helmet look a little in the yellow side compared with Ford Diamond White (and perhaps a little matte). Here’s a comparison of one of mine, if it helps: Left - RS ABS Centre - TM spray painted Ford Diamond White Right - 4 year old RWA ABS helmet

Nice work. :-) Out of interest, I notice you’ve got for a very large gap between the bicep and forearm. Any particular reason? Here’s a typical example, with perhaps 1 or 2cm gap in places; A few with almost no gap when the arms are straight. Here’s some more references and info on the arm alignment, if it’s helpful. :-)

こんにちは、そしてようこそ。(Hello, and welcome aboard). :-) You will find lots of good information here, and many knowledgeable troopers. Have you also reached out to the Japanese Garrison? I know that they have some excellent builds and helpful troopers. Best wishes Dan

Great job on this helmet so far, trooper. The paint work is looking excellent. :-) If you still have the second set of ears that came with the helmet, I’d maybe consider trying a slimmer version of the right ear (when worn). As below, it looks like your’s still has quite a bit of return edge/flashing within the curve, making this side look a little thick compared with the other side. As I say, not a big deal, just something that caught my eye. :-) Best wishes Dan