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CableGuy

Detachment Staff[Staff]
  • Content Count

    2,837
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    43

About CableGuy

  • Rank
    Replica Section Curator (PRO)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London/Surrey

FISD Info

  • FISD Service Medals
    1
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20171216
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    Yes
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Kudos
    Eagle Eye

Standard Info

  • Name
    Dan
  • 501st ID
    42911
  • 501st Unit
    UKG
  • Troops Completed
    10

Recent Profile Visitors

1,721 profile views
  1. Lovely work. I’ve seen this on Facebook, also, and it’s brilliant. I’m all about fully painted helmets these days for people looking for an authentic appearance. Great job, trooper. [emoji1303] Best wishes Dan
  2. The other side looks quite high, however, it doesn’t look like you could have done much differently. The moulding of this make of helmet looks like you didn’t have much choice. Honestly, what you’ve done seems to be okay for this helmet. If in doubt, check some other builds of this maker and see how they positioned the ear caps. [emoji1303]
  3. The gap is fine. Just like those reference photos I posted, many have a similar gap.
  4. By the way, if you’re worried about the little gap above the ear, don’t be concerned. Many originals had that, to, as below. See trooper, left
  5. Looks okay, Trooper. As last time, do you have a couple more angles from a few feet back?
  6. No worries, brother. What you have is a greaet start and I'm sure you'll be joining the ranks VERY soon!
  7. Hey Cory, Overall, that looks pretty good. Seems well fitted to you mr frame. [emoji1303] Just a couple of key things I’d look at, if it were me. Shoulder bells; Ideally, these would sit much closer to the chest plate. Helmet details; If you can, I’d try to tidy the painted black lines (traps and tears) and the tubestripes a little. Ear alignment on this side might also be questioned at the higher levels, but not likely at basic. :-) Ab buttons; Ideally, the painted buttons would be a little smaller. The outside of the plates could be trimmed down a little. Calves; The coverstrips on the calves should not pass beyond the ridge. I’d imagine you’re not far from basic, and with a few tweaks, could likely progress to EIB and Centurion. :-) Best wishes, Dan
  8. Looks good, so far. Do you have photos from around 5-6 feet back? It’ll be easier to gauge from there. :-)
  9. Here’s a nice example. Each was slightly different so don’t be too worried. Check out the FISD image library for more examples. :-)
  10. The ears in that video are a little thick compared with the originals, however, the method is workable. Personally, I prefer to do an approximate trim with scissors first, then fine tune with a Dremel (or sandpaper). Remember, they don’t have to be seamless. I’d just suggest using screen shots available to help you gauge the thickness and positioning. :-)
  11. Another option is a popper/snap on the back (inside the calves, of course). Personally, I attached velcro to the front tab of my boot, then a popper on the rear tab. To allow a little wiggle room, I used some spare elastic to Attach the popper to - this allow flex when moving around. Here’s what I did to start; Velcro front, poppers rear Then, I realised that if I moved my angles too much, like going up stairs, the rear popper could in-pop. So, I added a tab of elastic to give it some flex; They now stay perfectly aligned and have not un-popped since :-)
  12. To make the image show up in the thread, try the “BBCODE” option.
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