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CableGuy

Administrators[Admin]
  • Content Count

    3,191
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    46

About CableGuy

  • Rank
    Provost Marshal

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London/Surrey

FISD Info

  • FISD Service Medals
    2
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20171216
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Kudos
    Eagle Eye

Standard Info

  • Name
    Dan
  • 501st ID
    42911
  • 501st Unit
    UKG
  • Troops Completed
    10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,415 profile views
  1. Nearly finished, now. Currently, he’s “Mr No Stripes” AND “Mr No Lens”... ;-)
  2. Hey there Tricky, Yes, that’s normal for the rubber S-trim. This is also RS and it’s the same. :-)
  3. You’re making a good job of reworking that plastic Rubies helmet. Does the colour match nicely with the foam Armour? :-)
  4. Is it worth linking this thread via FB? I hate to admit it, but, I feel most people use socials more regularly than the forum. A little note with a link on the FB group might stir up some more entries. :-)
  5. Hey Tino, Many thanks. :-) Looking at the original pattern of the "chips" in the first photo (as I received it), I think they were also aiming for the "set for Stun" helmet, so I think they just went too far with the trimming. The trimming has many areas of concern so I think it was just an oversight. I always used to paint black first, then grey, as that's a little easier. However, after discussions with some of the RS guys and ArtooDan, I decided to go all out and go Grey then black. It's quite nerve-racking, however, I'm getting used to it and really lik
  6. After applying the fossil green, it’s time to start adding the liquid latex mask. I was asked to copy the Set for Stun trooper, so that’s what I aimed for. After this has dried, time to add a white undercoat (same brand as the gloss white the mat will be applied later): Then, Ford Diamond White gloss spray paint. The first coat was a little too satin... So, another can of spray paint purchased and a slightly thicker coat applied to get more sheen... Ooo, lovely. :-) (here’s a little peak at the spray painting) https://youtube.com/shorts/2cSwSZJOIOg?feature=s
  7. Hi folks, So, I’m part way through a rather interesting project. When I saw a trooper asking about ways to fix a part-finished RS Prop Masters helmet that he’d purchased on eBay, I offered some suggestions. As the conversation continued, the trooper asked if I’d like to take a look at it in person to see what could be done. I agreed and he sent the helmet over to me. Well, opening the box revealed that it was already spray painted and the weathering had begun: When you look at the famous “lump” on the front of the RS helmet (part of the original helmet that this is cast from
  8. Hey troopers, I’m pleased to say that we successfully completed our 12 hour gaming livestream, on Facebook and YouTube, and had some great support. We raised a total of £325 for the MNDA (motor neurone disease Association), and hopefully a lot more awareness of this cruel disease. Here’s some of the photos from the event, before, during and after. A HUGE thank you to all of those that liked, commented, donated and/or shared.
  9. Nice work on the helmet so far :-) If I may, your left eye (when worn) has a bit of a bulge. I’d consider evening it out a little for a more typical appearance. Whilst you are there, you could consider squaring off the corners a little. As below, the eyes for ANH stunt helmets were quite angular. Glen provided some additional eye references before, also. They also show the same angular nature of the eyes. This gives the helmet a more menacing look, as apposed to the soft, friendlier look of softer, more rounded eyes. :-)
  10. Well done, Grave. Excellent effort. Hats off to Arthur for his assistance and support, too. :-)
  11. Hiya. I’d say that hot glue or similar is much more likely to just come off again, especially troublesome if it’s mid-troop (as you’ll NEVER bend down to pick it up) lol I’d go with a bracket to make it more stable. :-)
  12. Hey Cory, For the best references for the Hengstler and how best to attach it, I’d check out the FISD blaster reference guide. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ The bracket is usually just a right angles piece of metal. One angled bracket is enough and can mounted under the front foot of the scope.
  13. Nice work on the helmet, trooper. If I may, just a couple of things that you could consider. 1: the “tears” are currently quite small. Personally, I’d consider making them fill the moulded area a little better. Suggestion below; Secondly, you could consider filling out the vocoder paint a little more (the 2nd and 6th vertical bars). As per this link, the vast majority of ANH stunt helmet seen on screen had a slightly “fuller” vocoder; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48252-anh-tk-vocoder-examples/ Here’s an example of what could be done, if you wanted to. Keep up the g
  14. Thanks Tino and Tony. :-) I’ve given the scope another coat of Humbrol Brass 54, as well as the front end of the Hengstler. As the rear of the original Hengstler counters were plastic, they should not be sprayed with a brass coat. The plastic part would not have had metal effect weathering. I started to work on the “OFF —>” detailing on the end cap of the magazine, however, it’s not quite to the standard I’d like. I’ll likely do this again. And finally, the folding stock now has a coat of Hammered Black, so I test fitted it to the barrel. A little shiny still at this moment,
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