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CableGuy

Detachment Staff[Staff]
  • Content Count

    3,135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    45

About CableGuy

  • Rank
    Replica Section Curator (PRO)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London/Surrey

FISD Info

  • FISD Service Medals
    1
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20171216
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Kudos
    Eagle Eye

Standard Info

  • Name
    Dan
  • 501st ID
    42911
  • 501st Unit
    UKG
  • Troops Completed
    10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,292 profile views
  1. Hi Mario, Many thanks for taking the time to review my suit. Good points raised - I’ll be sure to have a look over these. I’m proud to reach EIB level with this suit. :-) Thank you (and Glen ;-)) for the tips on the rear traps. I’d followed a Sandy with the rounder lower corners, but, you are quite right that many TKs have the sharper corners. I’ll give that a little tweak. :-) Those 6mm shoulder elastics keep sliding down so I’ll add a fixing under the back plate to jeep them a little lower, thus the bridges floating a bit higher. Good shout on the thermal Detonator. I’ll take a lo
  2. Hey trooper, There’s many of us here that would be happy to help. Can you post up some pictures of your progress? :-)
  3. Hi Mario, Of course. Please see below: Please let me know if there is anything else you need. :-)
  4. Great spot, Glen. Those bottom corners especially. I feel a little tweak coming. :-) Thanks for the kudos. Fully spray painting the whole helmet really brings a different edge to it. I’ve noticed that the side rivets are overlapping after I uploaded the photos. I’m expecting an “advisory” for that. ;-)
  5. Name = CableGuy / Dan Branton Armor Maker = TM (for my sins) Helmet Maker = TM Blaster Type = DoopyDoos with T-Jays completion set Optional Height = approx 5’10” Weight = approx 64kgs Boots Maker = self finished Canvas belt = TM Hand Plates Type = Imperial Warfighters Electronics = TRamp + TroopaCoola Neck Seal Type = The Imperial Seamstress Holster Maker = Burkbench Designs Hi folks, I’m back again with another suit. I finished this suit last Sept (2020) but am only just getting around to submitting. So, no additional EIB number required. Just for fun. ;-)
  6. Super - yes, those would definitely have to be sanded to remove the actual points on the back. I’m with you on that. Curving the part as you suggest is optional (as the original suits mainly went straight up), but, as you said, those point return edges could be removed or sanded. :-)
  7. Hi Joseph, It’s personal preference though, isn’t it. I know you mentioned that it “should” be trimmed as you suggested, however, if a trooper wants to follow the originals, they can follow screen used suits. Your suggested cut line is ideal if a trooper is after an ‘idealised’ look. [emoji1303] The photo of the RS suit is not jagged. With a little sand paper, you can easily follow the shape of the originals, yet not have any jagged edges. My own suit follows the originals yet I have no poking when suited up. I know you don’t like return edges either, however, same as above, that’s a pe
  8. Nice work! :-) When you get the adding the coverstrips, if you are looking for screen accurate (vs idealised), note how the coverstrips stop with the shortest piece of armour: Either way is fine - just personal preference. :-)
  9. Regarding sizing the back of the forearm (or any other parts in your build), personally, I’d start by following the RS videos step by step and size up from there. Rob kindly advises the size of the original parts that they own. So, I would listen to his measurements and tape the piece to that size, and see how it fits. If it fits you, that’s excellent - you can then go ahead and build to the original sizes. If it is a bit tight, you can then open up the back a little at a time to get a good fit for you.
  10. Ah, cool. I hope they’re helpful. :-)
  11. Hey trooper, Great to hear you are going for Centurion. As you are aiming high, I would avoid the supplied decals / stickers. As you suggested, the hand painted style paint templates from TrooperBay are a good middle ground. This link is handy before you start painting; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/ If you want to go the whole hog, you could try this method:
  12. Yes, the TRamp is built on an Aker unit but with the other electronics built in. No need for separate units. So, it has the static bursts (they can be switched off if needed). There are lots of various clicks and bursts so it doesn’t sound too fake. It also has preset voice samples of the character you are using. Within the unit, you can select Stormtrooper, Vader, 3PO, Wookiee, Jawa, the list is over 20 or 30 characters. The samples then relate to the selected character. It has audio loops for many characters, too, including TK chatter. To trigger the samples and loops can use this with
  13. I’ve not used or handled the 1506, however, the 1505 is basically the same size as the very popular “TRamp” system. I know troopers of many shapes and sizes that run one of these with their kit and I’ve not heard any issues of it’s size as yet. I have both (see below link) and, personally, find it no problem to fit easily behind the chest plate. I just hang it around my neck with the speaker facing out towards the chest plate. Both are more than loud enough. :-)
  14. Hey there, trooper. Personally, I’m very pleased with my TRamp voice system. As a back up, I have a standard Aker MR1505 which, for around £26 GBP, is a bargain. Here’s my thoughts on both; For fans, I started with self built fans which worked fine. For a smarter look, I later upgraded to TroopaCoola. They are very well made and the ones I run are variable speed; If you’re in the US, I hear very good things about UKSWrath products. [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303] Hope that helps. Dan
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