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About CableGuy

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    Replica Section Curator (PRO)

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  1. Hey Nick Welcome to the FISD!! What an awesome surprise. And RS - that’s a lady with good taste. ;-) If you haven’t already, get yourself signed up on the UK Garrison forum. Myself or another TK armourer will prepare you for clearing your suit with the legion. Once that part is done, you can come back here and apply for the higher levels, if you want to. Great to have you on board, trooper. :-) Dan UKG ARMOURER
  2. Thank you, everyone. Those comments mean a lot. :-)
  3. Haha! Much appreciated, my friend. :-)
  4. Hey troopers, Just an update on this thread - this suit is now CLEARED for 501st trooping. :-) May as well go for EIB and Centurion with this one, too. :-)
  5. Hey there Trooper, Welcome to the FISD. :-) To give you a really good head start, I’d start by reading through this: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-helmets-sub-submenu.htm This talks in detail about how the original suits were designed, created and used on screen. It runs through quirks of the armour and also the differences between “stunt” and “hero”. This is all based on the original, screen used source material. In my view, the source material is your best place to start. After that, you’ll have a better understanding of what the armour should be and look like, and this might help your decision on an armour vendor. :-) Best wishes Dan
  6. Hiya. Look okay, however, it’s harder to tell when the parts are separate. I’d tape them together with something not to sticky, like masking tape, and start seeing how they look and fit on you. :-)
  7. Hi all, As the actual accuracy of the armour kit itself is not really considered with EI and Centurion, it’s almost possible to clear anything. As mentioned, SDS has its share of accuracy issues in terms of the actual moulded plastic parts (helmet, chest piece, moulded ab buttons, overlap construction on the limbs, belt, thigh ammo pack shape etc.), yet it can still be taken up to Centurion (with a lot of hard work). This is because centurion is more about having the correct screws, the correct alignment, minimal black gaps around the kit etc., not about the plastic parts themselves. In this sense, this is quite “fair” towards armour kits from all different makers and price groups. On the other hand, those that want to make the most accurate and realistic suit of armour will choose the most accurately moulded kit within their price range. :-)
  8. Hi there, folks. Well, this kit is now finished and my clearance photos are in. Here’s a couple of the latter bits of progress, then some finished shots of the armour. :-) Belt inspired by the RS belt, down to the cutting of the drop box elastics and the white gaffers tape on the rear. Holster attached. Gap from the edge of the plastic ammo belt to the first fixing is around 40mm.
  9. Hi folks, Checking in today and I’ve just noticed I’ve reached 3000+ posts on this wonderful forum!! Wowza... For me, this all started back in 2017. I wanted to renovate my yellowing SDS helmet and stumbled across “whitearmor” on google. I followed some excellent videos by Mike of Trooperbay and resprayed that helmet. Following that, I read more and more on white armor and, not too far down the line, I bought my first helmet kit from Ross at RWA. I documented that here on FISD and received excellent support and advice. That was a big part of the build, helping and supporting the build. After finishing the build, along with the armor kit, and clearing it up to Centurion, I was asked if I’d like to join the Imperial Attaché team - “HELL YES”, I said. :-) I later joined the DO team, helping troopers reach THEIR goals of EIB and CENTURION. If it weren’t for the changing of the guard that year, I’d have likely carried on in the role, along with the legends that are Joseph and Tony. Alas, things changed, however, this year the FISD is back on track under the exquisite leadership of Andrew. Anyway, enough waffling from me. I just wanted to say a huge THANK YOU to the FISD community. I won’t get into shout outs as I don’t want to exclude anyone, however, I’m pretty sure many of you know who you are - people that have made this forum, this community, so welcoming, supportive, and knowledgeable. Keep up the great work, everyone. [emoji2956][emoji2956][emoji2956] Best wishes Dan / CableGuy
  10. Hi there, Trooper, I did a whole video series on building a TM helmet, if it helps. This covers basic trimming, ears, construction and painting. Here’s how it turned out.
  11. Hey trooper, Looks like you are nearly there - good work. :-) As you’re going for Centurion, I can’t help but mention another couple of points above and beyond what has been mentioned. Starting from the top, it looks like you could afford to trim at least 2-3mm out of the eyes. This will aid vision as well as being more screen accurate. If you chose to do this, note the nice square lines and corners of the originals, rather than the rounded corners you have now. Also, your tubestripes appear to be on the opposite sides, meaning that the front few stripes point up towards the eyes, not across towards the nose/frown. Here’s more details on that; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/ Moving down the the chest, you currently have very thick sides and lower edge. As below in the reference photos, both could be significantly trimmed for a more sleek and screen accurate appearance: Your drop boxes are currently very thick. As below, I’d suggest reducing them quite significantly. Many find that between 12-15mm is good. Also, the inner part is currently protruding beyond the outer part, exacerbating the thickness. Best of luck with your application, trooper. :-)
  12. Cool. Return edge is not specified in the CRL (apart from wrist end of the forearm) so this part is more personal preference. Me personally, I like a little return edge here, especially the “spine”. Here’s Han’s for reference. :-)
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