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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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About 11b30b4

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    First ROTK Centurion

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    Naast MMCC, GA Garrison 501st

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  1. Wow, I am off the internet for a few days and get swamped with notifications. Justin, thank you for chiming in. Jake04, Justin is correct the helmet for this build was a Jimmiroquai helmet and they come unfinished. It is possible to modify a Black Series helmet to look very much like this on. There is a link to my mod in my signature (ROTK BS MOD). another option is to purchase the 3D print files from Nico Henderson, his helmet is very accurate. tat2trooper, thank you but this kit has been finished for some time; although, I am always updating it.
  2. TK 14166, you have been updated, Congratulations and welcome brother.
  3. Jason, to be honest, I have never needed to remove the frames so I do not believe it was worth the effort. In fact, on the BS mod helmet, I just glued the fabric inside the helmet. The whole idea came to me when I placed the blue fabric inside the helmet and realize that the fabric did not conform to the rounded shape of the inside of the helmet. specifically, the space between each tube cutout, the frame held the fabric to a specific shape. If i was doing it again, I would just glue the fabric in place and not mess with the frames. Each frame was fabricated from a piece of HIPS th
  4. Jason, congrats and I look forward to this build. 1. Jims lenses are completely approvable. They are slightly convex. As I have said a few times now, the CRL was not intended to scare away anyone with near flat lenses, it was to discourage anyone trying to use the bubble lenses from the OT. 2. As far as I am aware of, I am the only Centurion ROTK and I believe there is me and one other who are EIB ROTK. 3. Paint, my vote is for White loss spray paint. 4. Strapping yes, following Kyle's method is my recommendation (obviously). 5. I do not recall if a blast was required
  5. DarthBiscuit, Outstanding brother! I have updated the roster.
  6. So what i do is use a pice of 1/8 thick HIPS or some other plastic cut about 1" wide and 1.5" long. I drill a hole in the center then attach the 2 sides of the four part snaps to through the hole. Then I sand the back side of the plastic and the inside of the armor where I will be gluing the snap. Then i use CA glue and attach the plastic with the snap to the inside of the armor. Then i mix up some PC-7 and apply it to the top and sides of the snap plastic (keeping it away from the snap) and blend it with the armor to produce a nice bond. The advantage to using HIPS is
  7. Congratulations Jason, I will update the roster. Outstanding work.
  8. Jason, I understand the issues with cracking and paint wearing. I still say the rattle can is the way to go, when its all cleaned and filled, a respray is an easy thing to do with the rattle can. If I decide to respray my ROTK, I will need to do a lot of masking and sanding since its automotive paint and clear coat. As for giving up on this armor for approval. I recommend you check out my build thread on Pathfinders, here:http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21220-11b30b4-shoretrooper-wip-mr-pauls-3d-print-files/ Ignore all the mistakes and look at the second page abdomen an
  9. Sly11, I keep hearing people refer to the FO Stormtrooper armor whenever we learn something new about the Rogue One armor. Id be willing to go out on a limb here and say that there is more in common than different from the ROTK and the FO Armor kits.
  10. Jason outstanding work. Yes PC-7 is amazing. For your viewing pleasure here are two quick PC-7 videos. The first one (machining PC-7) was what sold me on this stuff a few years ago. Filled a hole in metal with PC-7 then tapped it for a screw. Still works perfectly today. The other video shows how once you wet your fingers or the PC-7 you can mold it like clay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eabfILkbkH8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaazrkdTu5w The corset closure came out great and you made a great tutorial. In reference to the two tabs at the
  11. Ok so the gap above the tab not the box. Well also consider that my armor is Jimms design and still has many issues that are not exactly “screen accurate”. This gap being one of them. Actually, the screen used kits did not have this gap. Instead, there is a similar gap on each side of the tab and along the bottom of the box seen in these pics: Although, these gaps look like holes they are actually just depressions that got filled with dirt and that is why they are black or brown. Although these boxes are made separate from the back plate, they are glued on a
  12. Jason, I am not sure what hole above them you are referring to, perhaps its the holes from how I originally attached the shoulder straps. Back box pics Chest box pics Sorry the armor is so dirty. I think the idea for the Velcro on the gloves was as you suggested. All of your update pics look good; however, you may run into an issue with the mesh on the Hovi mics. It looks like the mesh holes are a little large. This is the correct size mesh: This look
  13. Azuma and Jason, just an FYI but the trap boxes at the top of the back armor and the chest armor were originally separate pieces for the screen used armor. The little tab you see one the bottom of the boxes is a connector tab that dropped into a grove in the armor to align the box. If you check out Mr. Pauls shoretrooper page you can find pics of how the chest boxes were attached with magnets to the chest armor. The shoulder strap was affixed inside the trap box, so taking the armor off required the box to detach from the chest armor. I agree with all of Azuma's suggestions to correct the mode
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