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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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About 11b30b4

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    First ROTK Centurion

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    Naast MMCC, GA Garrison 501st

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  1. I will add my thoughts to this discussion. First, I have always believed that the Rogue One TK should have been named the Anthology TK. When we first got wind of Rogue One it was promoted as a Star Wars Anthology. Later it changed to A Star Wars Story, but the term Anthology seems most correct. From Merriam-Webster anthology noun an·thol·o·gy | \ an-ˈthä-lə-jē \ plural anthologies Definition of anthology 1: a collection of selected literary pieces or passages or works of art or music //an anthology of American poetry 2: ASSORTMENT
  2. Jason, also if you recall from one of my comparison posts (I don't recall which), on a display set of screen used armor showed that they used the same type of shock cord to close up the thighs and biceps. I would assume this is also true for the forearms and most likely the shin armor. Since we do not see the cutouts (the "J" cutout on the bicep to attach the shoulder) on these others armor parts we can assume the shock cord is completely internal on these others parts. Again, I believe the shock cord is attached on the inside of the armor for these others parts like the inside of the bicep pi
  3. Ben, it sounds like you are on the correct path. Jason is correct that there is no one answer, as long as everything is proportional to your build, you will be fine. In the end, the overall look of the armor and its correct appearance in proportion to the wearer is what matters. Jason, on the rubber belt idea, I know that a lot of the clone trooper have rubber belts, I am not sure the rubber would look "shiny" enough to blend with the armor and then there is the how to keep it clean. I have had to deal with these issues with my urethane shoulder straps and just about all the flexib
  4. Well um.... Holy Crap! that is outstanding. I am curious to see how the TPU holds up over time. I planned on doing something similar but using 1/8" like this: https://sgtknots.com/products/marine-grade-dacron-polyester-shock-cord-1-8-inch?variant=33429745205334&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=3264755776&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_grp=116536717349&hsa_ver=3&hsa_kw=&hsa_tgt=pla-393927913855&hsa_mt=&hsa_ad=494912717198&hsa_src=u&hsa_cam=12189948699&gclid=Cj0KCQjw38-DBhDpARIsADJ3kjmvW2i6LSaYmsyetQpFWDAvjMWs
  5. Justin, the roster has been updated and congratulations brother. Let me know when you get the nod for the EIB and I will update again. Jeff
  6. Wow, I am off the internet for a few days and get swamped with notifications. Justin, thank you for chiming in. Jake04, Justin is correct the helmet for this build was a Jimmiroquai helmet and they come unfinished. It is possible to modify a Black Series helmet to look very much like this on. There is a link to my mod in my signature (ROTK BS MOD). another option is to purchase the 3D print files from Nico Henderson, his helmet is very accurate. tat2trooper, thank you but this kit has been finished for some time; although, I am always updating it.
  7. TK 14166, you have been updated, Congratulations and welcome brother.
  8. Jason, to be honest, I have never needed to remove the frames so I do not believe it was worth the effort. In fact, on the BS mod helmet, I just glued the fabric inside the helmet. The whole idea came to me when I placed the blue fabric inside the helmet and realize that the fabric did not conform to the rounded shape of the inside of the helmet. specifically, the space between each tube cutout, the frame held the fabric to a specific shape. If i was doing it again, I would just glue the fabric in place and not mess with the frames. Each frame was fabricated from a piece of HIPS th
  9. Jason, congrats and I look forward to this build. 1. Jims lenses are completely approvable. They are slightly convex. As I have said a few times now, the CRL was not intended to scare away anyone with near flat lenses, it was to discourage anyone trying to use the bubble lenses from the OT. 2. As far as I am aware of, I am the only Centurion ROTK and I believe there is me and one other who are EIB ROTK. 3. Paint, my vote is for White loss spray paint. 4. Strapping yes, following Kyle's method is my recommendation (obviously). 5. I do not recall if a blast was required
  10. DarthBiscuit, Outstanding brother! I have updated the roster.
  11. So what i do is use a pice of 1/8 thick HIPS or some other plastic cut about 1" wide and 1.5" long. I drill a hole in the center then attach the 2 sides of the four part snaps to through the hole. Then I sand the back side of the plastic and the inside of the armor where I will be gluing the snap. Then i use CA glue and attach the plastic with the snap to the inside of the armor. Then i mix up some PC-7 and apply it to the top and sides of the snap plastic (keeping it away from the snap) and blend it with the armor to produce a nice bond. The advantage to using HIPS is
  12. Congratulations Jason, I will update the roster. Outstanding work.
  13. Jason, I understand the issues with cracking and paint wearing. I still say the rattle can is the way to go, when its all cleaned and filled, a respray is an easy thing to do with the rattle can. If I decide to respray my ROTK, I will need to do a lot of masking and sanding since its automotive paint and clear coat. As for giving up on this armor for approval. I recommend you check out my build thread on Pathfinders, here:http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21220-11b30b4-shoretrooper-wip-mr-pauls-3d-print-files/ Ignore all the mistakes and look at the second page abdomen an
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