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11b30b4

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About 11b30b4

  • Rank
    Centurion

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20180813
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    Rogue1
  • FISD Kudos
    First ROTK Centurion

Standard Info

  • Name
    Jeff
  • 501st ID
    20980
  • 501st Unit
    Naast MMCC, GA Garrison 501st

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462 profile views
  1. IV, not sure what equipment you have access to but I can create a template graphic that you can have cut out on someone’s Cricket or Silhouette vinyl cutter. You can then use these as templates on some 1/8” thick HIPS then use a media blaster (sand blaster) to at least replicate the lines being engraved. Another option for you if the styrene is melting when you try to cut it out is to use a different thermal plastic like ABS. Ultimately, I believe 3D printing the parts would be the most effective option but your bucket is not exactly the same as mine and the curvature of the parts would be different as would the exact size. I would assume you have someone in your garrison who 3D prints and can model, perhaps talk with them and have them work up a model for you. You could always have someone do models and if necessary, cut out the areas on the bucket. Back the printed parts with styrene and glue them in form the inside. When doing my two buckets, I found that I needed to clean the needle bit on my Dremel after each line was cut. This removed the spinning residue plastic and allowed the bit and plastic a brief cool down.
  2. Imperial Valour, based on the HSP helmet, it looks to me like there is a recessed area in the center of tear traps, temples, and rear vent boxes? If this is the case, I would suggest you make the (grey area) out of styrene. Make a stencil for the lines and cut them out if the styrene then shape (hot water bath or heat gun) the styrene to fit the curvature if needed. Paint the area on the helmet black then paint the styrene admiral grey and glue it in place. I think this is how the actual screen used helmets were made and why we have in the CRLs that there must be a recess black outline of each of the boxed area. Most of us have this already molded in our helmets so we can not make the tear traps like this but it looks like you have the ability to do so.
  3. Gmrhodes13 and Darth147, Thank you. Updated 10-2-2019 Step 10 Masking and Detailing Unfortunately, I got carried away with the build and did not take many of the pictures that I should have. Regardless, the only parts left to be painted should be the tear traps, ear bumps, temples, brow, rear vents, and teeth. I masked off everything except these areas with various width masking tapes. Tamiya produces several different width masking tapes and are available at model supply stores and amazon. Once everything is masked, I sanded all the areas to be painted with 220 grit sandpaper. I was not trying to remove the white gloss, rather to roughen it up. Next, I used my airbrush and shoot the Admiral Grey or medium grey on all the noted areas except the brow. Next, I used a small signature brush to hand paint the black outline of each grey boxed area and the small oval on each ear bump. Next, I applied masking tape over the mouth and tear traps (be careful to not let the masking tape touch the painted teeth or tear traps) then applied the flex-seal to the brow and then carefully removed all the masking tape. There were a few areas that required touch up but overall, I like how everything came out. Step 11 Back all vents and mesh For all the vents except the tube vents I used a breathable black fabric like a spandex. I used super glue to apply the fabric in place. Try to not get the super glue on the fabric that will be seen because it can turn white. Next, back the tube vents with a breathable blue fabric. I got this fabric from JoAnn’s when I built my ROTK. Next, I cut some dark grey plastic window screen to fit the mouth and superglued it in place. I mixed some PC-7 and applied it to the mesh to make sure it stays in place. Step 12 Install inserts I installed the lenses, nose guard, head straps, front support frame and both side (tube) plates. I installed the ear caps and then rear insert inside the rear half. Lastly, I installed the insert inside the top dome and superglued the rear part of the insert to the added plastic support between the rear vents. Step 13 Assembly and finishing I attached the front and rear half’s together then attached the dome. This was the first time I put this helmet on and realized just how useless the head straps were. I will scrap those things and add my own support system. Also, the rear insert forced my face closer to the front of the helmet. I may alter the insert further, but I will not worry about it now. Next, I inspected the neck opening and noticed two areas (red lines) that plastic must be removed from each ear cap before applying the neck opening seal. I removed this plastic with a Dremel then applied the U-shape neck seal. Next, using a ¼” drill bit I drilled the two mounting holes for the Hovi mics and applied the correct Hovi mics. I got my Hovi mics from Etsy and they required assembly. Here is the link to the ones I used: https://www.etsy.com/listing/245863441/star-wars-screen-accurate-11-hovi-mix?ref=yr_purchases Lastly, I test fit the Vocoder then sanded the back side of the Vocoder where it would touch the helmet to remove any flex seal and allow a good surface for super glue. Next, I glued the Vocoder in place. This completed the helmet for the most part. If I do anything further, it will be to install a better support system and fans. Reviewing the Level helmet CRLS, there are a few incorrect details (I struck through the incorrect information) in the CRLs but for the most part they are correct: Helmet ü Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. ü Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. ü Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. ü The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. They may have between one to four painted black rank stripes. ü Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. ü Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. ü Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. ü Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. ü (VERTICAL LINES ON) Tears and traps may not be hand painted. ü Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. ü Frown mesh must be present and be wire screen mesh. It shall be dark metallic or dark grey in color. ü Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. It should be symmetrical unlike an ANH helmet. ü Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. (UNLESS PROPERLY MODIFIED) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ü Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. ü Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. ü Brow trim should be positioned 1/4" above the eyes. ü Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. ü Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. ü Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. ü Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): ü Only 12 tube stripes per side are allowed. ü The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. ü Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. ü Frown wire screen mesh is dark grey in color, and there is nothing behind it that closes off the gaps. ü Vocoder is tubular in nature with a visible gap between the outermost section and the helmet. ü The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with the black lines being engraved, not painted. ü The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. Based on the CRLs, this helmet is now Level 3 approvable. Here are the final pics Thanks for the interest.
  4. 11B30B4’s Black Series Helmet Mod Given that many of the pics from some of the BS mod threads are no longer accessible I have decided to post this thread to hopefully help others looking to do this mod. It should be noted that I have a full set of ROTK armor from Jimmiroquai along with his helmet and I am convinced that his helmet is a near copy (ahem) of the Black Series helmet. Regardless, using Jimms helmet as a reference of what the finished product should look like helped me a good bit. My complete ROTK build can be found here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44463-11b30b4’s-rotk-build/ Jimmiroquai and several other companies as well as a few members here on FISD are selling ROTK helmets and anyone having trouble deciding to buy a helmet or modifying a BS should seriously consider buying a helmet if they are not comfortable with the work required to complete this modification. The following modifications were performed to this helmet to ensure it met level 3 FISD and 501st approval. 1- Cover and blend the rear battery box and speaker openings. 2- Lower the brow trim so that gap between brow and eyes is approximately 1/8”. 3- Extend the jawline of the helmet to allow for proper placement and exposed gap of Vocoder. 4- Fabricate replacement Vocoder. 5- Replaced the Hovi Mics Ok, for this modification I used the following: BS ROTK helmet Apoxie Sculpt 2 part epoxy putty PC-7 2 part epoxy putty (I put that $h!t on everything) CA Super Glue CA Glue Accelerator Flex Seal Black liquid rubber 3mm Sentra .09mm High Impact Poly Styrene (HIPS) Various needle files Dremel with lots of accessories Heat gun Bondo Automotive glazing putty Black breathable fabric French Blue breathable fabric Correct Hovi mics Dark Grey plastic window screen mesh for frown Painter’s masking tape Various small clamps. 5/8” U-shape rubber seal Rust Oleum 2X grey primer Rust Oleum 2x White Gloss spray paint 5” section of 2” x 4” Petroleum Jelly Baking soda 100 grit sandpaper 150 grit sandpaper 220 grit sandpaper Airbrush Grey airbrush paint Black airbrush paint Step 1 Disassembly Disassemble the helmet completely and remove all the electronics. Step 2 Chop shop First, using a knife and then a sanding drum on the dremel, I removed the rubber neck seal on the front half of the helmet. Next, I cut out the Vocoder with the Dremel. You can also see I filled in the Hovi mic holes with PC-7. The neck seal on the back is not molded into the plastic and can be removed by hand. Next, I cut out part of the rear insert so that adding an actual neck seal once the helmet is assembled won’t be an issue. Step 3 extending the jaw line First, I cut a piece of HIPS to fill the Vocoder gap. I used a heat gun to shape it then glued it in place with superglue. The superglue is used to just hold it in place until we can weld it in place with PC-7. Once the rubber neck seal is removed from the inside and outside of the front half, you will have a nice trench on the inside edge to rest the HIPS in. I made a pattern with a sheet of paper of how I wanted the extended jaw line to look then cut pattern out of HIPS. I then used the heat gun to shape the piece and then super glued it in place. Once the inside was glued in place, I taped on the original paper pattern to the outside and traced the original jaw line then cut it off the pattern. Next I cut another piece of HIPS, heated and shaped it then superglued it to the first piece and used clamps to hold them in place. Repeat this process for the other side. It should be noted that doing this modification will cause (at least in my case) the bottom of the helmet to hit the shoulder straps and chest plate of the armor. With some 150 grit sandpaper rough up the HIPS, front jaw line, and Vocoder sides to allow the PC-7 to make a good bond. Next, mix up some PC-7 and apply it to the front jaw line/ Vocoder area and the inside of the helmet. With wet fingers smooth the PC-7 out and sculpt the jaw line area. Do not worry about extending the seams on the sides from the mask part to the face. We will use a file to sculpt it later. The PC-7 will need 24 hours to cure. Step 4 Vocoder There are a few ways to do this mod. I could have simply made a mold and re-cast the Vocoder that came with my Jimmiroquai helmet but that would have been re-casting, something I do not choose to do, so I decided to make a Vocoder from scratch. First, I made a sculpted surface that would support the sculpted vocoder. I made the “rest” surface out of a piece of 2 x 4. Next, I mixed up some Apoxie Sculpt and then rolled 7 pieces approximately 3/16” in diameter. I laid the pieces on the rest and pressed them into each other to make sure they would all be bonded into one piece. Wet fingers and some sculpting tools may help. Once I had the Vocoder shaped, I removed it from the rest and covered the rest with petroleum jelly to prevent the Apoxie Sculpt from adhering to the wood then placed the Vocoder back on the rest and let it sit for 24 hours. Step 5 Ear Cap Button Once all the electronics have been removed, I super glued the ear bump button inside the ear cap and then applied a layer of PC-7 on the inside to fuse the ear bumps to the ear cap. Step 6 Battery box and speaker openings After all the electronics have been removed, I filled the inside of the battery box with PC-7 then super glued the battery box cap on. I used PC-7 on the inside of the speaker openings and pressed it through to the outside. With wet fingers I smoothed the speaker openings on the outside. Initially, I used PC-7 on the outside seam of the battery box; however, I forgot to rough up the surrounding plastic with 150 grit sandpaper so even after the PC-had cured, it pealed off. I later realized that for this thin seam, the best option would be to fill the seam with superglue and apply baking soda over the super glue. The baking soda will cause the superglue to instantly solidify and the mixture of the baking soda and super glue is basically plastic. This can be sanded and painted. However, the mixture is slightly porous and will require some glazing putty later. In this picture I had not removed the PC-7 around the battery box yet. Step 6 cutting vents (optional) So, like my Jimmiroquai helmet, I wanted to vent this helmet as much as possible. On the inside of the helmet, there are some structural supports that lay on top of the areas I want to vent. In some places I removed the supports and, in some areas, I cut around and reinforced the supports. On the dome I added a piece of HIPS for the insert to rest on. I used a Dremel with a very small diamond wheel point bit (#7134) to rough cut out all the vent holes on the side tubes, tear traps, and rear. I had to clean the melted plastic off the bit between cutting each vent line. Once the vents were rough cut, I finished them with needle files. Step 7 Brow Trim The brow trim has a rubber seal that is molded into the plastic so again I used a knife and then a Dremel with a sanding drum to remove the rubber trim. You will notice that the plastic is not flat once the rubber is removed. This is not an issue because we will be incasing the existing plastic brow with sentra. First I cut a strip of 3/16” wide piece of sentra and then super glued this strip under the existing brow. Next, using the Dremel and sanding drum I ground down the existing brow trim to be even with the sentra. Next I cut a piece of sentra 5/8” wide and super glued it over the brow and even with the bottom strip of sentra. Next, I filled any gaps with super glue and baking soda. Lastly, I sanded the top of the brow to be even with the top of the front half of the helmet. Step 8 Sanding Sanding is a process, if you just go at it with 100 grit sandpaper and not crisscross your strokes you will end up with sanding lines. You should tackle every part of sanding starting with 100 grit and alternate your strokes then move up in grit to 220 grit alternating every stroke. I would suggest you not apply a lot of pressure, and wet sanding is way more effective. Do not go any finer than 220 grit or your paint may not stick to the plastic. If you are truly looking for that automotive finish you will want to use automotive primer and paints and sand between each layer of paint and clear coats; however, for this helmet I will be using spray paint so I will not be going that crazy with sanding. Four my purpose, I simply want to even out most of the modifications I performed. After I get to the 220 grit, I spay a layer of primer on to expose any issues. In some of these pictures, I circle the problem areas with a sharpie to re sand or fill with Bondo or glazing putty. Also be advised that there is a molded seam on both sides of the front half (outlined in red) of the helmet that you will want to sand away. You will want to sand all of the external parts of the helmet to make sure the paint will stick. I forgot to mention that I used a needle file to extend and define the seam from the chin section to the edge of the neck opening. Step 9 Priming and painting Once everything is sanded, wash all the parts with warm water and a few drops of dish washing detergent. Rinse the parts and let them hang dry. Once they are completely dry, hang then and apply the primer per the directions on the can. An hours later apply the white gloss per the directions on the can and let the parts cure for 48 hours. After I painted the parts I noticed a few issues. The battery box had a small issue (yellow circle) as well as one place that I did sand away a super glue drip (yellow circle) but I guess I did not do a good enough job. These are not big issues for me since I will be making a sandtrooper with this helmet but someone striving for TK level 3 may want to address these issues. Sand, fill sand again, and repaint. Next, I sanded and primed the Vocoder. I sprayed the Vocoder with flex seal, I think the paint on flex seal would have turned out better. In all honestly, the Vocoder on my Jimmiroquai helmet is painted semigloss black and not rubberized. This is how far I got this past weekend. This week I hope to finish the helmet. Thanks for the interest.
  5. Well Crap MMcFett, If I had seen that RO E-11 back when I was doing my build I would have grabbed it. I purchased an ANH E-11 3D print from Blaster Master before he shut down his store. Lots of awesome reviews of his E-11s and he was a great guy to talk with. I planned on building the ANH E-11 and converting it to RO standards but I have never gotten around to doing it. GandalfTheImperial, that bucket looks nice. I have a Prusa I3Mk3 so I would need to print it in parts and then glue it together. I like the size options as well and 30.00 bucks for the model seems like a steel. I have a black series bucket that I am planning on modifying for my RO 850 AW build but I am not sure which would be easier, 3D print this one or mod the BS. The only thing I would do differently if I had modeled this would be to have the tears and rear boxes be separate parts. This would make painting and detailing easier. I know there are some 3D models of the armor out there but I have no idea where and obviously no clue about price and quality. Thank you everyone for the updates.
  6. Ukswrath, thanks brother. I also found another RO E-11 maker. I will add them to the list.
  7. Crap, grabbing the B-Grade anything was like getting next to new stuff for 1/2 price. OP corrected again.
  8. MMcFett, you are correct. i thought they were doing a helmet at one point but that was HSP. I have corrected the OP.
  9. Rogue One TK Sources Since I keep seeing these questions popping up from time to time, I figured I would make this simple for everyone. I do not have experience with some of these sources so if any of you do please chime in. Further, I am not pushing or supporting any of these sources, I am just providing you all the list and what they provide, and you choose who and what you want to go with. Lastly, If I do have experience with a specific source, I will note that and my overall experience with them. I am not pushing any sources, rather supplying you a list to work from if you are having a hard time finding stuff. Please feel free to add to this or provide "creative" comments. ROTK Sources Jimmiroquai Armor, Helmet, Under Suit jimmiroquai@yahoo.com Jim was the first source for ROTK armor and is considered very accurate. The armor is flexible fiberglass and requires painting. I have a full set or armor, helmet, and under suit from Jim and I like everything. 850 Armor Works Armor, Under Suit https://850armorworks.com/ 850 AW has found a way to vacuum form ROTK armor. They produce this armor in white ABS and it looks very accurate from the pictures I have seen. I have ordered a set of armor from them and should receive it in a week or two. Once I get the armor, I will review it here on FISD. Ever since I got my Jimmiroquai armor I have wanted a set of vacuum formed armor. There are some significant differences in the types of material used and I like the idea of the armor coming in shinny white plastic. Hasbro Black Series Helmet Amazon and others Very nice helmet that will require significant alteration to be 501st approved. I have one and I am planning on altering it for use with my 850 AW armor. HeadShotProps Helmet https://www.etsy.com/shop/HeadShotProps?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=621540939 Looks to be a nice pull, this helmet is roto cast with greebles. Soft Goods Other than the previously noted sources many of the soft goods are available from these sources: Dark Side Closet Under Suit https://www.facebook.com/TheDarkSideCloset/ I have messaged them for pricing and shipping, and they are very responsive. Geeky Pink’s Gaskets Under Suit https://www.facebook.com/GeekyPinksPhantasticGaskets/ You will need to message here and provide specifications. Imperial Boots RO Boots, Gloves, Strapping https://www.imperialboots.com/ I have a set of boots and gloves from IB. I love the boots, the gloves are not the highest quality. Endor Finders RO Gloves https://www.endorfinders.com/ I have a set of gloves from EF and I love them. Katarra8 RO Pauldrons https://www.etsy.com/listing/150178963/classic-star-wars-stormtrooper-shoulder?ref=shop_home_feat_3&frs=1 I have a RO Orange Pauldron from Katarra8 and I love it. Veeds Pauldrons RO Pauldrons https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Product-Service/Veeds-Pauldrons-305552456469495/ I do not have any of Veeds’ Pauldrons but he is highly reviewed and respected. E-11s Hyperfirm Weaponry (HFx Productions) GOING OUT OF BUSINESS, NOT TAKING ANY NEW ORDERS RO E-11 https://www.facebook.com/HFx-Productions-1669859386576227/ I have a B-Grade RO E-11 from Hyperfirm and love it. Praetorian Blasters RO E-11 https://www.facebook.com/BlasterMaker/ I do not own a PB RO E-11 but it looks awesome. S&T Full Metal Airsoft Sterling E-11 RO E-11 https://www.evike.com/products/61969/ While most of the E-11s used in RO were made using the S&T Full Metal airsoft Sterling, this E-11 is not very accurate for RO. The scope, counter, and power cylinders are all wrong and there is not a light rail or tactical light. DoopyDoo’s RO E-11 parts https://www.doopydoos.com/star-wars-props-31-c.asp It has been noted that some of the E-11s used in RO were equipped with a DoopyDoo cast of the M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope from Sherman M4 Tank (1943 version with wide front foot). War Machine RO E-11 parts http://www.warmachinepaintball.com/online-store-replicas/ If you are looking to make a full “all metal” RO E-11, look no further. War Machine makes everything you would ever need. Bulldog Props RO E-11 parts https://www.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/ Brian makes resin casts of the M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope from Sherman M4 Tank (1943 version with wide front foot) that are completely accurate and disassemble-able. I own one and love it. I have done a full review of it on FISD. Shear Tech RO E-11, Rubber RO Handguards https://www.facebook.com/sheartech/ I am not real familiar with these guys but the E-11 looks nice and the rubber hand guards are nice as well. While there are a lot more sources out there this is a fairly good list for anyone to work from. I did not include sources like static burst communication kits or urethane rubber shoulder straps sources, but they are out there and if you are looking for that stuff you should be able to find them. I hope this helps those of you who are looking to embark on your ROTK journey.
  10. Hey guys, i did some research on this a while back. The slide show that Pablo Hidalgo was showing was before the visual guide was actually published. This picture was replace with the Crystal Patrol Duty pic. There was a plan to have two spacetroopers in RO but someone stole one of the backpacks the morning of shooting and so they were dropped from shooting. If you listen closely to Pablo, he explains this.
  11. Shin armor stress crack suggestions, as promised… Ok, while at DragonCon I ran into Plainsrunner from the Alabama garrison in his Mimban Trooper, his wife came up with a unique and simple solution for the shin armor to prevent cracking. As we know, the two halves of the shin armor clam shell together nicely. Note this picture and see how the right side is on the outside along the front seam. The cover strip is molded into this half. The left side butts up to the right side edge and has a piece that is overlapped by the right side. So what this enterprising lady did was leave the two halves separate and added 2 strips of elastic on the inside of the armor to hold the front closed but allowing for flex and spread. This method would mean that you would need to hard mount the knee plate to only one side of the shin armor and then possibly add some Velcro on the other half but when he was wearing the armor, it looked great and prevented cracks. Here is a graphic I made to explain this method. This is the inside of the shin armor. Side A has the cover strip and is on the outside of the front seam. Side B sits inside of Side A and has the internal overlap strip. Note the placement of the two 1” elastic straps. Another method a a friend of mine used was a product similar to Velcro and made by 3M called Dual Lock which was attached to the inside of both halves and then locked in place before putting the armor on. I hope these options help you all out. I will get back on the tutorial soon.
  12. napalmseth, I did the automotive paint myself but if you are not set up for it (and it ironically may be cheaper) to have someone do the paint for you. There is always the option to just rattle can it but I can not say how it will look. The advantage of rattle can is touching up scratches and dings. I have used nail polish and touch up pens for any touch ups I needed to do but its noticeable. LTM, thanks brother. See you soon.
  13. Until I get my hands on an 850AW kit, it seems to be the definitive best choice. At the time that I did my build it was also the only choice. Honestly, I do not know if the ABS kit will fair any better. I would really like to make my own bucks and vacuum form my own kit and then have the ability to replace parts as needed; however, I do not have the time to make the bucks so ordering a kit is the only option for the foreseeable future. Besides, even with all the cracks and problems with Jims kit, it still looks great and I get a ton of complements form OT TKs every time I wear it.
  14. OK so I had the opportunity to test out the “new” product and hell yes! In the picture above you can see the version 1 (on the right) of the shoulder strap that connects the chest to the back armor. The side strap is to connect the shoulder bell and the soft Velcro is intended to adhere to the underside of the kit included fiberglass shoulder straps or the urethane shoulder straps I make. Version 2 is on the left and was made from the new elastic/Velcro webbing. I also decided to make a version 3 which is the same as version 2 but the shoulder bell elastic/ snap is velcroid rather than sewn on the shoulder strap. This allows the wearer to adjust it on the strap for best fit. Going forward I pan on making the strapping kits available for purchase at $110.00 shipped to CONUS and will include the version 3 straps in that kit. I am still working some of the details for the kit and will post a link to the sell them once I have ironed everything out. This also means that if you have are planning on buying the urethane shoulder straps you should order them with the hard Velcro on them is you also are considering buying the strapping kit once its available. Ok so here are some pictures of the version 3 straps in full kit. They performed even better than the version 1 straps. I will continue the tutorial and refine the cut list in the coming weeks. Thanks for the interest.
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