gmrhodes13

And remember there is no RIGHT way, there is just the way that works for you

With E6000 make sure you rough up both areas with some coarse sandpaper, it will help it to grip too As already stated you need to leave some areas for at least 24 to 48 hours to dry and any areas under any force leave for 72 hours just to be sure. There was also some knock of E6000 glue on the webs at one stage, take a look at this thread

Looking good, a couple of things you may need to adjust that your GML may require Side closer not quite straight. Also there is a big gap from you the bottom of your TD to the armor. Biceps could be rotated, clips at front Good luck with approval, hope to see you with a TKID soon

Nice work

Nice to see you back at this. I have run into color bleed a couple of times, once was from a microphone which rested against the armor, the rubber sleeve bled into the plastic, the other was some pouch covers which were made in black which also bled into the armor. I found using a good cutting compound managed to buff these marks out. A lot of people speak highly of the Novus Polish. If polish doesn't work you could try a product from Trooperbay called "Armor White" which helps bleach the marks https://www.trooperbay.com/products/trooperbay-armorwhite-plastic-whitening-gel

Congratulations once again trooper, your build thread has been moved out of purgatory

From Battlefront some of the Stormtrooper lines. To save right click then save as storm_01.mp3 storm_02.mp3 storm_03.mp3 storm_04.mp3 storm_05.mp3 storm_06.mp3 storm_07.mp3 storm_08.mp3 storm_09.mp3 storm_10.mp3 storm_11.mp3 storm_12.mp3 storm_13.mp3 storm_14.mp3 storm_15.mp3 storm_16.mp3 storm_17.mp3 storm_18.mp3 storm_19.mp3 storm_20.mp3

Could I suggest perhaps speaking with Bryan @trooper96 who has done some great work with 3D files, he may (or may not) be looking for another challenged as he's exhausted the needs of the E-11's, might be something right up his alley to update/convert

Firstly some helmets are bigger than others. That said I only have fans in my helmet, I use a wired mic, then run the cable down to behind my chest where the aker amp and icomm unit are housed, keeps weight off your helmet which is a must as I have neck issues. My fans use 4 x AA battery packs which fit in nicely on the lower cheeks. Here's a few links showing how others have tackled their helmets Many of us keep the aker and icomm behind the chest, the image below is not mine, I have them tightly together held with elastic with velcro sewn on the back. Also have a small ABS ledge of angled plastic below to stop them falling down. Some use an icomm and hovi tip speakers A few keep them strapped together on their neck

Make sure you sand those rough edges as they can catch on your undersuit when moving

Shouldn't be a hold up at any level, depends how they sit on your arms though, I had to add some foam in between mine and left most of the return edges. I would however try to angle these to match the other side as that square edge will give you some nice armor bites when moving your arms around Screen references have no return edge at all

Looking good, just a few observations. Your knee ammo strip has fallen, this can be a quick fix, add some E6000 behind then life ammo strip upwards and clamp You could also make your forearm gaps match, bring them up a little at the elbow which will give you a little more gap at the wrists, just touching your handplates. Thigh heights different levels. Your helmet is sitting up quite a lot, you may want to try some thinner padding in the top of the helmet, my padding is only 10mm thick and loose foam not firm Drop boxes should align with the ends of the plastic belt section. Shoulder straps on back are not sitting down, a little heat or gently bend with help them lay flat. You may need slightly tighter strapping too, appear they only just meet your backplate but this may just be the image. Here you see how high the helmet sits and you can see your face. If you can't reduce the padding try wearing a balaclava. When taking pictures for GML don't have blaster in holster as it makes the belt droop. Things are slightly different heights in the area image. Just on the side photo you can just see your thigh belt And lastly your ab/kidney sections aren't meeting on the tops and gap on sides. Note drop box out of position. Just some tweaks as we see with some RS builds, once you address these you should be good to go and seek GML approval. Good luck recruit

If you could also add your total troops into your first post heading makes tracking easier Troop log title examples:

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Best update my list yet again: APPROVED: TK - ANH Stunt L3 TK - ANH Hero L3 TK - ESB L3 TK - Heavy Weapons Trooper TK - TFA L3 TK - TLJ L3 TK - TLJ-E L3 ID - Officer ANH L3, Lt Tanbris L2, Lt Jir L2, Lt Childsen L2, 2nd Lt L2, Lt Com Praji L2, Lt Treidum L2 ID - Warrant ANH L2, ROTJ L3, Maj Hewex L2, Joff L2, Col Dyer L2 DZ - Jawa ANH TB - Biker Scout Lancer L2 IC - Crewman ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IC - Mechanical Crew L3 TI - Reserve Pilot IG - Gunner IN - Navy Trooper ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IN - Navy Dress Uniform ESB L2, ROTJ L2, Sgt Bean L2 ID - Line Officer - Olive ID - Grand Moff Tarkin ID - Social Officer Black ID - Social Officer Olive TX - Sith Trooper TB - Jedi Fallen Order DZ - Din Djarin S1V2 TK - Death Trooper RETIRED CT - Clone Trooper TR - Guard ROTJ DZ - Tusken ANH TD - Sandtrooper TK - The Force Unleashed Stormtormtrooper TK - Stormtrooper Commander UPDATED WOW I haven't updated this in a while Added: TX - Sith Trooper TK - The Force Unleashed Stormtrooper DZ - Din Djarin S1V2 TK - Stormtrooper Commander TK - Death Trooper SOLD: TK - The Force Unleashed Stormtrooper TK - Stormtrooper Commander