gmrhodes13

I still have over 10Gigs of research material from just my first TK build stored on my iPad, it’s constantly being added too, always amazing how a new photo reference or detail can appear even after all these years. Great to have when helping out at armor workshops too (we don’t call them parties anymore, some took the word party literally) I find it useful not to have any return edge, you use the inside corners quite a lot and especially with my Hero helmet, can hardly see out of those bubble lenses anyway

I remember searching the same subject when I was a recruit

It’s just for different ranks, nothing official but have a read here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12217-painting-rank-on-ear-piece/ or here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/1707-question-about-ear-rank-insignia/

I’ve used some paint that I’ve had laying around, primer grey then coated in clear gloss, came up a treat

Some great info in this post https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42381-howto-post-images-in-threads-using-imgur-easy/

Hello and welcome aboard, head to the Getting Started section, lots of great info in there for you, also have a look around the build threads, can pick up a lot of great details and see how things are done. Good luck and hope to see a build thread from you soon.

Thank you Joseph, his passing was so sudden. A new day and feeling a bit better, trimming continues. I like to add inside strips just for a little more strength, some don't but I think they are especially important on the shins, with the constant opening and closing some extra strength is a good idea. Plenty of ABS strips left from the trimming, so cut them down to size, sand and glue to the insides. Within no time you'll have all the inner strips attached. Continuing trimming, again the sanding block comes in handy for nice straight lines. Add a guide line to the plastic belt and knee ammo strip, will help when it comes to trimming. Hold the pencil in the desired spot, keep your fingers against the other side and pull the pencil along. Once you have everything trimmed you can mark out the holes and angled edges on the belt. After the rough trim of the ab plates you can measure against the ab and trim to match. Getting the drop box backs nice and flat, if anyone is interested these are trimmed to 15mm. Now I do prefer using a rotary tool, many like using the score and snap method, what ever works for you. The advantages of using a rotary tool is you can save a lot of time, downfall is you'll end up with a lap full of ABS filings, now as long as you have nothing else on your chair you can save these for later to make ABS paste if it's needed. Just make sure it isn't contaminated with any other particles or the colour can change slightly. I always advise people to do their research before starting their build, it's a lot easier having info and references close by when you are trimming rather than having to stop and go online and search with every piece, then in no time flat, trimming is almost complete.

As Rat suggested check with your GML first. Personally I wouldn't approve them because of the ridges on the soles. From the CRL: Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

Note inner drop boxes are only required for the higher levels

Changes made removing any mod references. If I could have both @magniand @giskard8 have a last read through and give me your thoughts. Ultimately any changes would have to go through Paul first and may not even be included. I will show alternate wording in purple if you could please give your preference to either green or purple on each of those. They are as follows: Belt: GREEN or PURPLE Thigh Armor: GREEN or PURPLE Holster: GREEN or PURPLE Suggested changes are in green. Alternative changes are in purple Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar. Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Blue stripe detail shall be present on the right side of the helmet, starting from the back of the helmet, and continued on to the bottom of the face (stripe tapers to a point as it goes down the face). Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Helmet and details/paint is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Blue stripe continues over brow trim Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. REMOVE OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%. Shoulder straps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). REMOVE Upper Arm Armor Biceps are fully closed. Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both biceps (one to the front and one on the side). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No shoulder bell straps across the biceps. Biceps/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Forearm Armor Forearms are fully closed. Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both Forearms (one to the front and one on the side). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Forearms/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Forearms use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE Hand Plates ANH Hand plates are ANH styled, mounted securely of the back of the glove, As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand plates are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, and permanently affixed to rubber gloves (no straps). Back Armor Back plate contains a "O II" design. A blue detail shall be present in the form of a Y-Shape. The blue Y-Shaped detail will have slanted white stripes, one on each side of the flared upper parts of the Y-shape. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The Back plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. AM back plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version. Abdomen Armor Ab plate buttons shall be all black. Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB. A blue stripe shall be present on the ab section and stops underneath the belt area. The blue stripe is wide at the bottom and narrows toward the top, to match up to the blue Y-Shaped detail of the chest plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ab plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons. All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons. There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney & Posterior Armor A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The edges of the hip area are rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB posterior armor). Kidney/Posterior Armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. REMOVE There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, the top rivet is roughly 25mmfrom the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. OR Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. Belt can be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Leather and vinyl are not accurate. There are two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt. The center square button is not accurate. Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. Drop boxes are closed in the back. The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white. Thermal Detonator ROTJ Or Game (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator control panel has correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version. The ANH/ESB style is not allowed. Thigh Armor Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh, The outside half of the right thigh shall be blue with two white semi-horizontal stripes near the top. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable. REMOVE The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. REMOVE Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references. The thigh ammo belt is NOT rounded off like ANH. The thigh ammo is glued and has NO rivets. OR The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable. REMOVE The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. REMOVE Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE The thigh ammo belt can be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references or attached to the thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.. The thigh ammo belt can either be straight or rounded off like ANH. Lower Leg Armor Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net Only the outside half of the right greave shall be blue. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Greaves/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Lower Legs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. Both boots shall have two blue stripes painted, curving across the top of the foot. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Boots are lightly scuffed. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The two stripes curving over the boots are accurate in proportion to official references. OPTIONAL: Holster Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material Holster is worn on the left of the belt Holster is affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners). OR Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material Holster is worn on the left of the belt Holster can either be affixed by two black loops over the belt or attached via straps behind the belt using fasteners already present

Unfortunate but well done checking in on others. Looking forward to seeing the neon suit at a later date

I would suggest first trying to polish them, if you paint them they may still look different from the rest of your kit. With automotive acrylic the paint is dull until it is buffed and polished. You could try with some polish first and if that doesn't work then use some automotive cutting compound, this should help to bring the shine back.

Thanks Joseph, I have added in 3 to 5, I do think I've seen more white drop boxes than grey but I will have another look through images. Hopefully Arthur or Randy will their thoughts about the ammo belt and other options

Hello and welcome aboard