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gmrhodes13

Detachment Staff[Staff]
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  • Days Won

    497

Member Title

  • Position
    PRO - Newsletter

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Down Under

FISD Info

  • FISD Achievement Medals
    2
  • FISD Service Medals
    4
  • Attache Achievement Award
    1
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20121223
  • EIB Awards
    9
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
    ANH-H
    ESB
    TFA
    TLJ
    TLJ-E
    HWT
    TKC
    DTH
  • FISD Kudos
    First TFA, TLJ, TLJ-E , TFU Centurion, TFU TK Crl.

Standard Info

  • Name
    Q - (Glen)
  • 501st ID
    85421
  • 501st Unit
    Desert Scorpion Garrison
  • Troops Completed
    200

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  1. You can take all your photos however you may find there may be some corrections you may need to make for either basic or EIB approval. You could post your images in the pre approval area to get a better idea of any adjustmens needed before seeking approval or higher levels https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/
  2. Hello and welcome to the forum, here is a great thread full of helpful links and info which may help you on your way
  3. You may want to remove a little paint from your ab buttons if you are aiming for higher levels as they are a touch on the large side If you compare to the reference image below you will notice they should stop just before the lower ridge
  4. You can trim the cover strips down if they are a little long, I normally trim them to match the piece they will be attached too before adding glue. Good idea to nip the corners off too so they don't stick into you when moving, original armor had cut corners, references: Some leave to dry for 24 hours but I like to leave it longer, especially any pieces that may be under slight pressure, 48 to 72 hours. Also make sure you rough both areas with course sandpaper before applying glue, gives the glue something to grip too. Some areas of armor are more difficult to get a perfect fit just with magnets, I use a combinations of magnets, clams and painters tape. If you apply downwards pressure and hold when adding tape around the whole piece you can basically squash the cover strips down so the lay flatter. Here's a few examples
  5. Sorry to hear this, it does happen unfortunately, not everyone finds the 501st initially or FISD and miss out on this type of information. Good luck hearing something from the supplier.
  6. In corner areas I use cut strips of plastic, run in the corner and normally helps dislodge the glue then you can pull off, some is harder than other areas. The strips will dull after a few uses so I just cut the end to make them sharp again.
  7. https://trooperbay.com/sandtrooper-black-canvas-mp40-magazine-pouch-set Lots on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mp40+pouches&i=digital-text&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Also on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/363575661538?hash=item54a6cc53e2:g:-IkAAOSwKNdhY6Z6 There are also some army surplus stores that sell them, a quick Google search should come up with some https://www.ww2gear.com/p-42012-german-mp40-canvas-pouch-set-green-wwii-repro.aspx You also see them pop up on MEPD from time to time http://forum.mepd.net/
  8. 1: I prefer nuts/bolts you can adjust then, rivets are permanent but usually are included with kits. 2: Ideally the placement of ears are shown in the images below, you trim your ears to match the helmet then add the screws, some helmets have some marks for screw holes but they don't always align that way: The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below, where the screws line up with the rear angle of the trap right above it. Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can. Note: Top ear screws should ideally be located directly below the rear of the trap. 3: There should be little gap between the back and face plates, your brow trim should push between tightly and will stay there, if it's loose some use glue to hold it in place This thread pretty much covers all your questions
  9. Weapons Locker General Weapons Discussion BlasTech DLT-19 Post 1 Completed - gmrhodes13 SECTION COMPLETE
  10. You will find just a small amount of glue on the front and the rear sides is quite enough to hold them
  11. Another non TK troop Channel 7 2021 Christmas Pageant Advert
  12. As I mentioned previously I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress, I've got itchy fingers and keep looking at the files Good luck with the build, if it's anything like your helmet builds this isn't going to take you very long
  13. So I stick with my original assessment, should be ok for basic approval, arm and shoulder adjustments would be good as previously mentioned To be knit picky for higher levels The corners of the plastic belt should meet the width of the belt. Also make sure the drop boxes align with the end of the plastic belt, not the cut corners The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. Butt plate is being pushed back a little, tighter strapping or perhaps some V tabs may help Brow trim is twisted on the back. Decals don't fill all the top traps but they are decals, may be mentioned for higher levels Brow trim down on one side, even out Fabric belt looks a little loose or high on your side left side, may not be secured correctly. Sides of kidney plate are sticking out over the ab, adding some pieces of plastic behind can help hold them inwards On sides your kidney and ab plates not matching at the top. Also belt loops a little wide at top so they hang on an angle Backplate looks to be being pushed outwards at the top, maybe tighter strapping to help bring it in and up a touch You could also add some ABS paste between the gaps on the lower ridges of your thighs. Also TD is not quite central or it could be as you are on an angle to camera These are all just suggestions for higher level clearance so don't panic just yet Good luck with approval
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