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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 10 points
  2. 9 points
    Hello, Troopers! I have been itching to post this special mission report to share with you all, we just received our wedding photos, and would love to share some of our favorites with my fellow TK brothers and sisters. The BEST DAY OF MY LIFE! Pretzel's Wedding Day October 20, 2018 We, of course, needed to celebrate our day with local Stormtroopers to be our Honor Guard. The escorted us in, and it was as EPIC as I thought it would be. It is pretty awesome to have stormtroopers at the wedding, and these group of fine Troopers KILLED IT! In attendance as our Honor Guard: TK-80386 Matt Stoner TK-14791 Bill Blake TK-12060 Joe Fencl TK-12007 Jeremy Smith TK-92014 Josh Kinney TK-97670 Colin Durborow Please Enjoy our Photos highlighting the honor guard. Merry Christmas from The Christman's OUR WEDDING VIDEO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzHI61pZEIE&feature=share
  3. 7 points
  4. 6 points
    We already have levels, though. EIB and Centurion are optional programs. Nobody here at FISD is knocking on basic Legion standards, and if people choose to stop there they are more than welcome to. Trooping is what really matters, after all. EI is meant as a upgrade over basic Legion approval, but still leaves a lot of leeway. Centurion was added later for those who wanted something closer to screen accurate and as such, I personally see no problem with added most of these suggestions.
  5. 5 points
    Hello! I'm undertaking a helmet electronics project what I'd consider mostly from scratch (no components pre-wired together). I'm near-novice level; it's not that I've never wielded a soldering iron, it's just that the last time I did I was 12. Fortunately a good friend is an electrical engineer working in the field who can both explain things five times in a row AND lend a hand with stringing everything together. Phew. THE CURRENT (lol, electrical jokes already) PLAN: My voice changer will be a Teensy 3.2 coupled with the audio adapter shield and Bluetooth module as per TK Talkie's delightfully detailed V3 directions. A PJRC prop shield LC will act as amplifier for the little speakers which I'll be setting in my hovi mic tips. I'll have [many] helmet fans ('cause I'm here for a good time, not a sweaty time) on an independent circuit to cut down on electrical noise within my audio system, most likely powered by a rechargeable USB battery. I'll experiment with lavalier microphones behind my neck seal, and will probably integrate a hearing assist system down the road. Disclaimer: this project is in between invention and re-inventing the wheel. People sell similar pre-built components and systems! I've just been spoiling for an electronics project so I want to do it all myself. This promises to be quite the adventure for my ANH stunt bucket Smudge and me. Come along, if you dare.
  6. 5 points
    By the way, I got a low brow and am proud of it! I’m going to start an interest thread for a T-shirt that says , “Low-browed TKs are people too!” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 5 points
    We start a little earlier than you guys in the rest of the world so here's to you all, Merry Christmas to you and yours (yes I suppose rebels too) and all the best for 2019. Presents unwrapped, turkey stuffed, vege's in the oven and Yorkshire pudding mix ready to go, must be time for a festive Bloody Mary, must be 12 oclock somewhere in the world CHEERS
  8. 5 points
  9. 4 points
    Pretty nice interview with FISD former DL, former LMO and current LMW, Eric Brager aka @Darth Aloha https://www.dailydot.com/parsec/stormtrooper-costume-uniform-design-politics/
  10. 4 points
    Whilst this accuracy is all well and good when it comes down to it, this is not a replica group. I don't feel we should be enforcing the exact angle of the ear or brow height at anything less than Centurion. Troopers should, for the most part, look the same. If we're down to such minutiae as the brow gap being 5mm off or the ears being off by ~10° then I'd suggest we're already doing a pretty decent job. Provide the information, those who wish to built to it will always exist but I don't feel this level of detail should be overly enforced.
  11. 4 points
    FISD: come for the detailed analysis and critiques of TK armour... stay for Matt's and Frank's banter.
  12. 4 points
    How about a slightly crooked one for the TK that spent too much time at the imperial bar last night while off duty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 4 points
    What if we suggested different brow heights mean different things? For example, 0-2mm, angry and menacing. 3-4mm- the TK has gastrointestinal discomfort. 5mm is meloncholy. 6-10 mm is intrigued or curious. 11mm or higher, the TK is shocked and/or surprised. [emoji1744]‍[emoji3603][emoji12] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 4 points
    Simplest would be to do nothing - the lower snap-point isn’t needed as the belt will hold it closed. I know some would say the belt is not meant to be structural and all that but why not use it if it’s there, totally up to you of course
  15. 4 points
    Odds 'n' Ends -- Part II Now that I'm nearing the end of the main build, I'm finding lots of smallish things I also need to do, so I'm peppering them in as I think of them and need a break from the main build. (Truth? The next part of the main build would have involved spending the day running around my workshop in my undersuit, but I forgot to turn on the heat in my basement workshop. Yeah, time for some odds 'n' ends instead...) One of the things I wanted to do with my armor is to arrange an alignment method for the right side where the Ab and Kidney meet. No issue with the left side, since that's riveted with a rigid ABS/webbing hinge, but the right side will be closed with straps. To keep the alignment correct and prevent one side or the other from sliding up or down, I decided to use a "tab-and-slot" arrangement that many of you have used. I made the slot plate with a length of white ABS scrap (the 3-1/4" length allowed it to fit nicely between snap plates), raised at each end with smaller squares of ABS glued in place. The opening of the slot matches the thickness of the tab that would go into it. For the tab plate, I used some black ABS (scavenged from the black plastic case one of my DeWalt drills came in),and cut it into the tab shape with a long gluing surface matching the length of the slot plate. I made this with black so it'd blend in with the undersuit, rendering it invisible through the seam where the Ab and Kidney meet. Not how I scored the gluing surface on the back of the tab plate. I then closed up the armor and put both pieces in place on the right-side closure between Ab and Kidney and traced where they needed to go. Starting with the slot plate on the kidney side, I glued it in with E6000 and clamped it up. While that was drying, I did the same thing with the tab plate on the opposite Ab side. You have to be careful when gluing these in, and make sure they stay on your traced lines when you apply clamping pressure. Parts glued with E6000 are notorious for sliding all over hell and back until the glue sets. I let both sides set up for several hours, then removed the clamps to test the fit. Perfecto! Up next, heat the damn basement and pick up where I left off with the main build.
  16. 4 points
    ok pipe build e11 guys made you a few tubes
  17. 4 points
    Fortunately, the media never showed up. I was informed by some of the admins of my local garrison that media interviews are ok, with buckets off, and I was sent the list of do's and don't's about what to talk about. I'm glad they didn't show up, just to not have to deal with that, but I had an absolute blast! The responses by kids, adults, everyone was so awesome, and I know that being there in that fashion helped to spur more donations (it was for the Salvation Army). One guy even said, "Best bell ringer ever," and proceeded to put a $20 bill in the bucket right at the end.
  18. 4 points
  19. 4 points
    Firstly if you are newly approved you can request an access upgrade here. I would suggest having a read through the Trooper Survival Guide. I do advise caution when trooping out on your own, especially without a handler/wrangler/support there are many obstacles which you may not be aware and the last thing you want to do is turn and knock over a small child, having someone with you can be great assistance. I would also be cautious if you have no experience attending troops official or unofficial, there are guidelines with LFL have given us to follow which you may not be privy too but your command staff would be, I would definitely discuss this with them as already suggested. Some have had issues working with some charity groups in some parts of the world in the past for various reasons so make sure you have local command's blessing first. A former CO had always told us "yes it's your costume and you can do with it what you want when not representing the 501st but remember even though you attend unofficially and don't say you are 501st people will/can just assume you are" Just a FYI, bear in mind the following are some guidelines to follow when giving interviews as a 501st member: Interviews If you don't feel up to it or feel unprepared, don't hesitate to direct the interviewer towards a member of your unit command staff. When being interviewed by members of the press, or independent media producers it is important to maintain the distinction between Lucas Film and the 501st Legion. While we are typically happy to grant interviews requests for interviews need to be evaluated to make sure that we will not be put into a situation where we may be requested to speak on topics not related to the 501st. Legion. Lucas Film has requested that when conducting an interview we do so with "buckets off" to make a clear delineation between our membership and the characters we portray. For example it's appropriate for us to discuss specific charity involvement as a member but not appropriate for Darth Vader to say that "XYZ Foundation" is his favorite charity. Interview Tips Buckets off: Identify your self as a member of the 501st either by name or TK-ID. Avoid controversial topics: No discussions of Religious or Political issues. Promote the Legion in a favorable light. Be Positive: Don't comment negatively on other Costuming Groups and Star Wars organizations. We Build our own costumes: stress that our costumes are all fan made. Talking Points The Legion officially began in 1997. We currently have over 13,000 Active Members. The Legion currently occupies approximately 61 countries world wide. The 501st Legion is a totally volunteer organization How do I join: Visit www.501st.com and/or your garrison website. Discuss your Garrison troops and accomplishments. Discuss your Detachment Mention Kids and Fun. We don't "get paid to troop" : Mention our charitable contributions and activities
  20. 4 points
    Only by eating them. [emoji23] Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
  21. 4 points
    I think Glen has had more practice than most of us, lol! It takes me a good 15-20 minutes (with a handler) or so when I go HWT because of all the accessories. Speaking of mobility, I am constantly dropping bits when getting kitted up, and since I can't bend down after putting on my calves/thighs without looking like a contortionist I bought a "grabber" device. On my next troop the first thing I dropped was yep... the grabber.
  22. 3 points
    I have very low brow on my stunt lol
  23. 3 points
    I finally got to troop with my son who has spinal muscular atrophy at the Sydney Power House Museums Star Wars Identities exhibition last week. It took a while to get him a costume that would be comfortable in his wheelchair but also look the part. I signed him up to the galactic academy and he is known as CDZ4250. There were approximatley 200 people during the first session and most people were delighted with the exhibition and our troopers. I am am sure this was the first of many for come for the little Jawa. http://(null) by -matthewwormleaton-
  24. 3 points
    Snaps 'n' Straps -- Part III Christmas, along with all preliminaries and Christmas-week travel, is about over at last and I can finally get back to my build. I had hoped to have a Shiny Whitey Christmas, but too much stuff going on. Still, the finish line is definitely in sight, so let's get back to those snaps 'n' straps. Up till now, I've been concentrating on getting all the snap plates located and glued into place. As a reminder, I'm working up from the Butt Plate in back, to the Kidney, the Back Plate and then down the front onto the Chest Plate and Ab. Essentially a big circle starting at the lower back portion. As such, I hadn't yet gotten up to the snap plates at the shoulders, which is where I picked up this time. As you can see, unlike the black webbing snap plates I used elsewhere inside the armor, up on the shoulder extensions I opted for white webbing. When worn, it's not difficult to see up under the shoulder extensions, and I felt that black webbing snap plates might be more visible, while white ones would blend in better. Note that I still have two final snap plates to locate and glue into place, and those are the ones on the lower inside of the Chest Plate that connect to the Ab. I'm going to hold off on those until I get straps made for the Butt, Kidney, Back and shoulder connections, and then suit up with the full torso. With those sections of the armor on, I figure I'll be able to more accurately mark the locations where those two snap plates for the Chest should go. So, on to the straps. I've read a lot of pros and cons about whether these should be all webbing, all elastic or a mix of the two. I may be wrong, but in looking at about a bazillion build threads so far, most seem to favor elastic so that's what I'll start with. (I can always swap them out for webbing later.) With the exception of the white shoulder straps, which are plain old Jo Ann Fabric 2" elastic, and a few narrow 1" black elastic straps, I opted to use suspender elastic. I bought a pair of suspenders with 2"-wide black straps, and cut that into the lengths I needed. The suspender elastic material is far superior to the fabric-store stuff -- it's thicker, stiffer and doesn't stretch quite as much or as easily as regular fabric-store elastic. I'll still have the "give" I need in all my connections, but they won't be stretching so far that it'll open up big gaps. (In theory...) For strength, I planned to fold over the ends of each elastic strap and then install the snaps through the double folded layers. I've also seen a number of ways folks are further strengthening those folded ends -- those will undergo a lot of stress when snapped and unsnapped, and the stronger those ends are the less likely the snaps will tear out of the elastic. Some of you have sewn those folds closed; others have slipped a thin piece of ABS into the fold. These are both good ways to make those ends stronger. However, I decided to glue those folds down. Gluing will not only keep the folded layers intact, but will stiffen the overall construction of the strap ends. As a bonus, it keeps the ends thin enough to get the snaps in (adding a piece of ABS would have made the straps too thick for the snaps I have). Gluing is also faster than sewing. Plus, due to an unfortunate occurrence the last time I borrowed my wife's sewing machine, I'm not allowed to use it unsupervised. Less said about that story, the better. (But it's a really good story...) Anyway, I found that prepping the elastic straps for gluing is easier if you crease the ends first where you plan to fold them. Here, I've just folded the ends over and put a couple small clamps on the fold to hold it. You don't have to clamp for a long time (or at a high pressure), and by the time I had several straps clamped and came back to the first one, there was a nice crease right where I wanted to fold it. Working on one end of the strap at a time, I removed the clamps and slathered in some glue. I'm using Duco Cement here, but I also did some straps with E6000. I decided I liked the ones with Duco better -- the bond was stiffer, and took a lot less time for the glue to set and cure. And, the stiffer bond makes snapping and unsnapping easier. I'll still use the ones I made with E6000 as an experiment to see if there's any difference in how they stand up to use, but I think the Duco Cement will win out. With the glue applied, I just folded the ends over and clamped them up -- using small pieces of wood on each side of the fold to keep it nice and flat -- and allowed the glue to set. When dry and ready to work, I marked them for the snap holes. You can see that I'm getting a lot of use out of my snap jig. Here, I'm just using the jig to mark where the holes will go. You're maybe wondering why I'm not making the holes the same way I did for the webbing, by placing the ends in the jig and using the guide holes in the jig to burn holes into the strap with a soldering iron as before. Well, I tried that but found that the soldering iron didn't do a very good job of getting through the elastic straps. It sort-of did, more or less, but the holes where messy and undersized for some reason. (The strap material seemed to stretch over the tip of the soldering iron instead of melting to the same diameter.) So instead, I used my snap-setting pliers, which come with hole punching inserts, to make the holes. This worked well, and I found that with the elastic strap being glued into a two-layer "sandwich" on the ends, there was no fraying at the holes -- the glue kept everything nice and solid. I continued working my way through all the straps, and then installed all the snaps once I'd finished all the holes. I have to say, I am mightily tired of making snaps. But all the snaps and straps for the armor's torso are done except for those two on the Chest Plate I mentioned earlier, and I am one extremely pleased about-to-be Trooper. Let's snap everything together and take a look at what we have so far. Don't look now, but I think it's almost time to get dressed and see how everything fits. Since I've already had the full torso assembly on with everything attached with tape for measuring and marking for straps, if all goes well it should fit fine. Then, with the torso on I'll mark for those last remaining snap plates on the Chest Plate and move forward from there. Moving forward means moving on to the Shoulder Bells, Biceps and Forearms -- the last major parts of my TK build. Those parts are all assembled, with cover strips, and ready to go; it's just a matter of strapping them together. I'll still have the Shoulder Bridges, Belt and Hand Plates, but the biggest part will be complete. I really am nearing the end!
  25. 3 points
    Great progress, Patrick!! :-) For the knurling, i purchased a relatively cheap set of ‘Rolson’ shaping/modelling tools from Amazon - they happened to have a nice knurling pattern on them which worked well for mine. Here’s a pic showing the tool and the packaging that the whole set (around 10pcs) came in. Lovely build thread so far, Patrick. :-)