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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    So almost a year now since I was approved. 19 official troops and some more unofficial events/conventions under my white ammo belt (I really need to update my troop thread here & troop some more too) and the AP armor is still going very strong. I've had a couple small cracks to deal with but nothing major, one of them was actually a result of how I was packing the armor into the rolling case, easy fix there. After building an Anovos kit (more on that in a second) I've really come to appreciate the proper thickness and durability of the AP kit. I've put some automotive detailing experience into keeping it shiny and mostly scratch free and it makes a huge difference. Posts are more fun with pictures, so here I am meeting the big boss at Dragon Con: And lucky guy that I am, my wife now has a Legacy TK to troop along with me in white armor. She also has an approved Mara Jade & Padme Lake Dress, somehow she ended up with more approved costumes than I have! For now... Back to what I was saying about Anovos, I snagged a great deal on a Shadow Trooper kit and built it just in time for Dragon Con (as in I was finishing the last pieces after we checked in to the hotel). I need to make a few minor adjustments and then I'll be submitting it for approval. Apparently Shadow Troopers can find all of the droids they're looking for: That's all for now!
  2. 3 points
    Welcome. Let me just add on that what’s everyone is saying is true this can get expensive but when well maintained you’ll get years of use and kids smiles out of it. So look at it more as an investment. Save up and do it right, it doesn’t have to be done right away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    Request 501st status changes here. NOTE: we (the site admins) will periodically check the list of people in this forums database against the list of 501st members as kept by the Legion COG. People will be added or dropped automatically, so it's a good idea to ensure that the email address you use for this board is the same you use in the Legion records. If you need your status adjusted in between database checks, please post here. NOTE: You must include a link to your 501st record as per below, else your request will be ignored: http://501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=4733 **Please test your link when you post your request to make sure it goes to your legion profile page. We cannot use links for the Legion forum or Garrison pages.** 1. Go to https://www.501st.com/members/searchform.php 2. Input your TK number and "Search" 5. On the "Results" page click "More" to the right of your name 6. On this page that lists all of your costumes, copy the URL and paste it into this thread with your request.
  4. 2 points
    1) First Troop! 3-17-19 -- Bingo for a Cure, Allentown, Pa. ---> 2) 3-30-19 -- Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Penguins Hockey Star Wars Night 3) 4-6-19 -- Connecticut Garrison New England Air Museum ---> 4) 6-16-19 -- Tamaqua, Pa., Summerfest ---> 5) 6-21-19 -- Wilkes-Barre, Pa., Rail Riders Star Wars Night 6) 7-13-19 -- Bloomsburg, Pa., Children's Museum 7) 8-10-19 -- Moscow, Pa., North Pocono Library ---> 8) 8-10-19 -- Bethlehem, Pa., KidsPeace Annual Charity Yard Sale ---> 9) 8-25-19 -- Carlisle, Pa., Bosler Memorial Library 10) 9-7-19 -- Danville, Pa., Geisinger Janet Weis Children's Hospital ---> 11) 9-7-19 -- Norristown, Pa., Expressive Path Arts & Music Festival 12) 9-21-19 -- Harrisburg ComicCon 13) 10-5-19 -- Scranton, Pa., BetaCon 9 14) 10-9-19 -- Philadelphia, Pa., Shriner's Hospital for Children 15) 10-12-19 -- Philadelphia, Pa., ComCon 4 Kids
  5. 2 points
    Hi After research (a link from reddit led me straight to the commonly linked armor sources thread) and reading the forums i decided to work towards getting into the FISD. Decided to go for a RS commission since i got not much time at hand for a build. Weeks are going to stretch unfortunately until BBB day (hoping for end of october so it slips thru before brexit)
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    I had to expand on the kidneys. I m a bit thicker than the standard trooper
  8. 2 points
    After being asked a gazillion times about how I built my magnetic shin closures, I've finally compiled everything from my TK build and put it all in one post! Let me begin by stating that I followed the tutorial here for the most part when building these magnetic shins. However, I deviated from it in order to make the closures super strong by using a magnet-to-magnet closure rather than the magnet-to-steel method outlined in the tutorial. I have worn the magnetic shins I made for my RS Props TK out on over a dozen troops, and I have never had them come apart on me. I've only had to reglue magnets twice on these shins over a two-year period: a single magnet came off after being handled a lot (opened and closed dozens and dozens of times at an armor party by those who were trying to figure out how they work), and regluing a single magnet after trooping underwater for a few hours (well, not exactly underwater, but it was a parade where it rained for HOURS and I had to walk in the rain the entire time- for hours I tell you! My boots took days to dry out!). The small amount of maintenance I've had to do on these over 2 years of trooping is quite minimal. Once you get this mod on your kit, I swear you'll never go back to anything less than a magnetic closure on your shins. STEP 1: There are many steps necessary to build magnetic shins, so I begin with making a critical component for them: ABS buttons. The buttons are necessary to hold one half of the magnet assembly in place on the inside of the shin. I'm using 12mm x 3mm n50 magnets. You'll need a total of 20 magnets for the shins (10 on each shin). I strongly suggest buying more than 20, though. I've found that they can easily break, and you'll want backups on hand! You can find them in bulk- and cheap!- on eBay. First, I begin by making a template with a hole in it that is slightly larger than the magnets I will be using. I trace the magnet on a sheet of ABS. Here's what it looks like when done. Yeah, I know my hole isn't perfectly round. It's not terribly important for it to be perfect. I used two magnets to make each button. One on top to help me see where my hole template needed to go, and one underneath to form the button shape. Heat up one section of the ABS sheet using a heat gun on LOW until it gets slightly warpy. You can even leave the magnets attached to the ABS while you heat it up. Once the plastic is soft, quickly press it onto a flat surface, pressing the hole template around the exposed magnet. This is what it looks like on the top and underneath when you're done. And here's how it looks from the side so you can see how the magnets attach to the plastic. See how the bottom magnet sits flush in the new ABS button? I spent about forty minutes repeating the process until I ended up with 10 buttons. I will cut down and shape the buttons to fit each shin later. There will be five buttons installed on each shin. Still lots of work to do, but it's a pretty good start! STEP 2: Another step necessary for how I make my magnetic shin closures is to make sure that the backs of the shins meet up as perfectly as possible. This is to avoid any unnecessary strain on the magnets. This was acheived by some gentle shaping via a hot water bath. Before putting the shins in the water, since I don't have any cover strips installed on the outsides, I reinforce the closure with blue tape. The e6000 gets really soft when subjected to boiling water, and I don't want to weaken the join in the front. Blue tape holds up nicely for this application! Here's a before and after of my shins so you can see how the backs line up a bit better. I will be doing some further fine tuning on the lengths at the bottom later as I move along in my fitting. STEP 3: This stage involves making and securing the "holes" part of the closures for the magnets. I begin by cutting out two 3/4" x 12" strips of ABS. You should have this when you're done. Next make a lengthwise mark in the center of each strip to help keep your holes lined up in the middle. Then mark 3/4" in from each end. That will be the center point for the magnets on the end. I like using magnets with holes in the middle for this, so I can easily find the 'crosshairs'. Trace the magnet. I like to use extra magnets underneath to help keep it secure while I trace. Next, find and mark the center of the strip. It should be at the 6" point. From there, measure 2 5/8" from the center mark on either side. Mark and trace your magnets. When you're done, your plastic strips should look something like this: Next, I used my drill press and a step bit to drill out the holes. It went really quickly! When you're done, you should have two strips with holes in them that can easily fit the magnets. The next part is where people tend to get confused, so I took this photo to show what goes where. The "hole" strip will be glued to the inside half of the shin on the inside. It sounds kind of confusing, but it's not all that bad. Remember that the "hole" strip will be hidden! I begin with my left shin. I mark the center of each hole to assist when I line up the edge of the shin. Next, I test fit the strip on the shin to verify placement, clamping on both ends. Then I apply e6000 to the area of the strip that will be in contact with the shin, clamp and add magnets. This is what it looks like when glued together: Here's the right shin after gluing, but before I added the magnets. Here are both shins as the e6000 cures. I'll be allowing a few days for this to cure, which will give me ample time to get my ABS buttons ready for installation. STEP 4: Once the glue had cured on the hole strips inside the shins, I removed the magnets and clamps. With a light behind the shins, you can see how the hole strips are mounted, hidden inside. Using that light as my guide, I traced the approximate location of the holes with a pencil. This helps me to get a good idea of where my holes are going to be drilled. Yep. I'm going to make some Swiss cheese of my shins. Using a small Dremel sanding band, I carefully cut a notch out, just large enough for a magnet to fit through. Here's what it looks like at this stage when the shins are closed. I'm just focusing on drilling out the holes on the inside edge, following the holes of the hole strip that was glued in. I'm not ready to drill the outer half of the shins yet. Next to clean up my buttons that will hold my magnets. I rough trimmed them all to start. Then cleaned up the corners with a Dremel. I don't want anything poking at my legs! *Important!* If you want to make sure your magnets stay stuck on your shins, you must use e6000! CA glue will not keep the magnets stuck to the buttons; they will fail. I have heard this from several troopers when I have been contacted about their magnets not holding up. I repeat, use e6000 for this next step! I applied a liberal amount of e6000 to the inside of each button, then put the magnet inside to get all cozy. Make sure that you've got the polarity of all the magnets in the same orientation before gluing! Wipe away any excess glue from the top. To make sure that the magnets are firmly mounted in the buttons, I use the magnet intended on going on the opposite side of the shin to clamp it. In the pic below, you can see how I've got all the matched magnet buttons and magnets together as they cure. Back to the shins now. I like this ridge (where the pencil is pointing) to line up at the tops. For me, it makes the closure in the back look much cleaner if this is lined up. I tape it off there to make sure that the opposite side doesn't shift while I'm making my marks for completing the holes. I have an OttLite that fits nicely inside the shin to provide a clear light so I can make outlines for where I'm going to drill out the rest of the holes. Holes were already present on the left side in the photo below. I made sure that I drilled out the holes very conservatively as I went. I used an extra magnet to make sure that the hole was just the correct size for it to fit through. Now time to attach the outer cover strip! I use a 25mm cover strip on my shins for this. I taped off the edge of the inside half to keep any glue from transferring over. Then making sure that the cover strip was straight, I clamped the heck out of it. Praying to the TK gods that it doesn't shift!!!! Now time to wait for everything to cure really, really well. I am going to give these 3-4 days to fully cure just to be on the safe side! STEP 5: One shin is complete, with the outer rear 25mm cover strip glued into place. Woo! Here's a look from the inside, before magnets are installed. Be sure to clean up all excess glue from the inside edges in order to have a clean closure when you're done. If there's extra glue in there, it may not close correctly. I've tucked the outside cover strip to the inside so you can see how the magnets on the "cover strip" half are glued on. No magnets yet. I add a dab of e6000 to the magnet (be sure to check the polarization of the magnet before gluing!!!), and set it so that it fits inside the semi circle and on the outer cover strip. Like this: I wiped away the excess glue from the magnets and then positioned the inner "hole strip" over the magnets to ensure everything is lined up correctly as it dries. I tape the tops and bottoms of the shin to ensure it doesn't shift around during this stage. I'm not completely happy with how the inside cover strip is cooperating here. It sits flat on the top and bottom, but it pulls away in the middle a bit off to the right. I will have to heat bend this before installing the magnets onto the "hole strip". :/ Ideally, the inside cover strip should be sitting completely against the outside part of the shin, and it doesn't want to do that right now. This additional stress could cause the magnets to fail. It's annoying, but I'll need to address this before proceeding any further. Gah! Using the magnet buttons I created earlier, I clamp the magnets into place while the glue cures. Once the glue has fully cured, I'll reshape that inner strip to prepare it for the final magnet button installation. STEP 6: Now that the e6000 has had lots and lots of time to cure, it's time to attach the other halves of the magnets. Make sure that the halves are super clean and free of extra dried glue. It will prevent the shins from closing well. You can do this by touch. Rub all of it off where you feel it. Once everything is cleaned off, close the "hole" half over the "magnet" half. Your shin should be closing correctly at this point. The "holes" should lock around the magnets and prevent the shin from opening at all, even without the additional magnets at this point. If the "hole" strip is not fully engaged over the magnets, you won't have a very strong bond between the magnets to keep the shin locked. Easy part next! Apply e6000 around the prepared ABS button. No need to go crazy with the stuff. You don't want it oozing all around in there. And stick it on! This part goes really quickly. For additional strength, I add some extra magnets on top. Check those clean closures! Left shin. Right shin. I will open these up in a few hours just to make sure that there isn't any extra e6000 that has spilled out and might lock those shins closed where I don't want them locked. Now to allow several days to dry, and these shins will be good to go! Here's a short video so you can see them in action. Have you tried this on your own shins? Loved it? Hated it? Made a few mods of your own to improve this method? Comment below and let me know! Cheers- Cricket TK-10401
  9. 2 points
    Troop 004 -- 2019/09/20 -- S.O.A.R. R&R in Overland Park, KS
  10. 2 points
    Finally home from the UK and greeted by this. Amazed how light it is. Feels lighter than the TFA standard. What’s more you can actually see through these lenses [emoji1787] I’m guessing the big ‘A’ is doing some back door deals with its GE helmet so it can raise some incremental revenue. Here’s to the ACTUAL pre-orders arriving some time soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    That was so much fun! Thanks for the invite!
  13. 2 points
    Hey Johnathan, I'll be pretty straightforward - odds are that unless you are an experienced prop maker and very proficient with vacuum forming already, you will not be able to "construct everything". The overwhelming majority of us purchased raw, pre-formed "kits" from vetted makers, then trimmed and assembled them custom to ourselves. Quality molds/bucks are few and far between and the people who have them don't just give them out. Often, they have spent dozens, if not hundreds or thousands, of hours sculpting them. It's not something you can just make your own of or find for cheap. Please look around in here and check out some of the links to find a maker that's right for you. Your very best bet will be to do a lot of research while you save - like Michael said, $600USD is about the bare minimum for getting into an ANH-S suit, and they go up from there pending quality/options/different costumes. The good news is - you're in the right place. You've found some of the people that will be HAPPY to help guide you along this journey. But let's set some reasonable expectations right out of the gate. Please post any questions you have up in here - we'll all do our best to help. Welcome!
  14. 2 points
    Hey cadet! Unfortunately armor doesn’t come cheap in most cases. Depending on who you buy from and what materials you already own (snaps, tools etc.) you may spend anywhere from $600 to over a thousand. It’s a big investment but well worth it, probably the best purchase I’ve ever made in my life Do some forum trawling to get started, find who you can trust and who you can’t. Look at supply lists people have put together and check how much you own versus what you need. Ask lots of questions and finally, order the kit! We’ll be here to help the whole way!
  15. 2 points
    Mine is a hybrid/mashup. Resin Doopydoos kit, but I replaced the magazine well, folding stock (functioning), trigger guard, entire front end and rear cap with accurate aluminum replicas to keep authentic look high but the weight down. I did use a real Sterling magazine though. The whole thing weighs in at just a little over 2 pounds (about 1 kilo). One thing you will need to consider is that very often on a troop you will be asked "Can I hold your gun"? (Mostly kids). For those that carry Hyperfirms/rubber models this is not a problem, since it really can't be "broken" if they should drop it. However, since mine is mostly a resin build, I decline by saying something along the lines of "The Emperor forbids it" or "It's against regulations".
  16. 1 point
    First time out in the TK at a local library event. Please forgive the pauldron - been working on a HWT and just had to wear it out. Family Reading Night - Gibson City, IL - 11/15/2018
  17. 1 point
    Hi, Last year with the presence of 501st members at Solo and Tokyo Comic-Con, it gave me the final push to pursue my own armor and membership. I've spend two month obsessing over the forums, CRL, and Youtube to decided to order a trimmed AHK TK kit from Authentic Props. Being a Canadian living in Tokyo provides some challenges but I have found support from local members already which has been great. I'm a very detailed and nervous guy, part of my profession, so it will be measure twice, write it down, measure again, question the accuracy of measuring concept, then maybe ask everyone to confirm my measurements. This might take a while. Armor : Authentic Props Arrived Soft Hand Guards : Authentic Props Arrived TD Clips : Authentic Props Arrived Holster : Authentic Props Arrived Gloves : Authentic Props Arrived Belt : Authentic Props Arrived Neck Seal : Trooperbay - Arrived S-Trim : Trooperbay - Arrived Comms: Ukswarth - Arrived Boots : IB - Arrived Undersuit : Uniqlo E-11 Blaster : 3D print project - Started assembly Fans: Still researching Mark from AP endured many emails from my timezone to his and was very helpful and supportive. The BBB has started the journey and with email updates set on the tracking number I will follow its progress up to the minute. I figured once I had the tracking number I could start this build log and have some of you wait along with me in anticipation of a show.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    It is no problem changing that, it should be desired. It looks worse than it is in the photo.
  20. 1 point
    So backstage props have released their ready to ship pictures for their TLJ FOTK Started later then Anovos... Use metal molds as well.. And still manage to complete orders... Come on anovos!!!!
  21. 1 point
    I’ve had it confirmed...TLJ helmets ONLY used in production of TROS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  22. 1 point
    Hey everyone! Although I have not gotten much traffic here,(which makes perfect sense as this forum is dedicated to stormtroopers, not mandalorians) I will continue to post updates on my thread here. I may end up moving this thread to the Bounty Hunters Guild forum. But for now, it is here to stay. So, onto the progress report! I have done a complete overhaul of the old pieces, as they were inaccurate and needed a change. I also made custom keyhole slots for the back of the helmet as seen here. I have also updated the forehead crest. And that is pretty much it. Soon I will be applying the first coat of fiberglass resin. Until next time
  23. 1 point
    Troops: # 01: 04/16/2015 - TFA-Teaser Event including a broadcast of a live-Panel with JJ Abrams from Celebration Anaheim 2015, Imax-Cinema in Berlin (Germany) # 02: 05/02/2015 - Toys R Us-Event in Hamburg (Germany) # 03: 06/19/2015-06/21/2015 - Legoland Billund Event in Billund (Denmark) # 04: 10/10/2015 - Star Wars Reads Day 2015 in Hamburg (Germany) # 05: 10/31/2015 - Halloween-Event at the zoo in Bochum (Germany) # 06: 06/04/2016 - ComicCon Hannover Day 1 in Hanover (Germany) # 07: 06/05/2016 - ComicCon Hannover Day 2 in Hanover (Germany) # 08: 08/27/2016 - TFA Open-Air-Cinema in Travemuende (Germany) # 09: 10/01/2016 - Charity-Event Comic Market in Hamburg (Germany) # 10: 06/10/2017-06/11/2017 - Legoland Billund Event in Billund (Denmark) # 11: 07/08/2017 - sports marksmen's festival in Hanover (Germany) # 12: 12/16/2017 - Release of Episode VIII, UCI-Cinema in Hamburg (Germany)
  24. 1 point
    I was in Wal-Mart and found out that they started carrying Scout Trooper boots All they need are a few modifications here and there. ]
  25. 1 point
    Welcome aboard Jonathon, check out the link and ask plenty of questions, it's how we all got started.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Hey Bloch I'd be happy to give you a discount coupon if that would earn your business.
  28. 1 point
    #03: 06/19/2015-06/21/2015 - Legoland Billund Event in Billund (Denmark). Seems there is a nest of TKs
  29. 1 point
    A block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around is a good way to get jagged lines straighter. You may find wrapping tape around the pieces tightly they may come together a bit more. If you are still left with a gap cover strips will sort that out. With shins it's a great idea to add inside cover strips as they are opened and closed a lot so some extra strength is a great idea.
  30. 1 point
    Ok @shashachu, I got to work today. Here is the frown, let me know if it is cleaned up enough please. HOVI Tips And Shoulder bells. And for future TK reference, nothing would touch the Umbrol Gray frown paint. I tired alcohol, mineral spirits and lacquer thinner and it didn't even take the shine off. I had to use an X-acto knife and dental pick to actually scrape the paint off.
  31. 1 point
    First and foremost... There is no one 'best' armor. There is a 'best' armor for *you* depending on a few factors: 1) Your budget 2) What your body size is (yes, different armors lend themselves for different body types) * 3) How experienced are you at building armor 4) It's not the kit, it's how it's fitted to the wearer that counts * While FISD does not endorse any particular armor maker, below are sellers who have proven themselves time and again in terms of customer service, honesty, and quality. All makes below can be made to be both 501st and FISD acceptable. MATERIALS Armor is made from either HIPS or ABS. HIPS --- Pros: generally less expensive, easier to trim. --- Cons: needs painting or serious polishing to look shiny. Most HIPS will not be as durable as ABS or take the stress of ABS --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping ABS --- Pros: no need to paint, high durability --- Cons: may lack the detail of HIPS, usually harder to trim --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping plus take a lot of abuse OTHER TERMS Untrimmed: means the kit comes untrimmed and you'll have to trim the parts before starting assembly. Trimmed: parts are pre-trimmed and you can start assembling right away ANH Derived: traces back to a screen used helmet. Armor came from an incomplete ROTJ suit that was supplemented with parts from a tour suit, with this base being modified to be more ANH accurate in detailing. Parts will need to be butt joined with a finishing strip glued on top. * ON SIZING ANH Derived armor (TE2, AP) was sculpted for a typical UK actor circa 1976, e.g. 5'10" and 165lbs. While good for smaller body types, it has been successfully made to fit people as large as 6'4" 235lbs though requires a bit of shimming to pull this off. 1. If you are taller or larger in frame/girth, you may want to consider AM, RT, or TM armor makes for easier fitting. 2. If you are shorter, while ANH derived armor may lend itself to your size, even FX armor has been made to fit and look good on people as small as 5'6" and 115lbs (and smaller!). 3. RT has upsized his helmet by 4-5% which makes it equivalent to the size of the old FX but is more accurate in appearance. So, while it's true that every kit has a certain ideal body type, every make has been made to fit every body type and still look good. WHO TO AVOID 1. Be aware that this site - http://www.stormtroo...s.com/home.html - is not considered commercially available. It is run by a person selling recast parts, and at a healthy premium over what you can buy direct from vetted sources. You've been warned... 2. Do not buy from e-bay - kits are over-priced, the quality is often dubious, and always recast. 3. Also see this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/ VETTED MAKERS While there are many other sources for armor, the list below only contains those who have proven track records of honest business dealings, quality craftsmanship, and that are free from recast debates. You are certainly free to buy where you will, but if you vary this list we strongly encourage that you at least do your due diligence inquiring about the seller's quality and reputation before parting with your money. === ANH DERIVED ARMOR === Type: ATA (Affordable Trooper Armor) Country: USA Contact: Supertrooper on FISD / ATAworks@yahoo.com, please email for armor inquiries. Kit: ABS (HIPS by request), untrimmed, ANH derived Availability No known problems. Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed, parts butt joined with finishing strips, HIPS needs to be painted. Comments: The quality of HIPS material is such that it is the most durable of all HIPS armor makes. ABS is a custom made ABS for color, gloss, and durability, so you can order it either way and feel confident. Type: Authenticprops (AP) Country: Canada Contact: authenticprops@hotmail.com Kit: .080 gloss white ABS, can be ordered Untrimmed, Fully trimmed (ready for assembly) or Ready to Wear out of box. kit includes correct split rivets and cap rivets for centurion build and optional white rubber hand guards and C02 metal clips. ANH Derived. Helmet is screen derived but cleaned up with a smooth cap and back. Armor similar to TE2 but with some parts being different. The AP helmet includes resin hovi mic tip replicas, Centurion approved painted look decals, green acetate lens, inner drop boxes, rubber brow/neck trim and all correct hardware to assemble helmet. Availability: No known problems obtaining this, though there is a waiting list. Options: untrimmed, fully trimmed, fully built- ready to wear/modify. Options for helmet upgrades, belt upgrades and other options. Contact AP for detailed pricing. The ABS is bright white and has a semi-gloss finish like the originals. Now you can order a fully built helmet with advanced upgrades. upgrades include: chinstraps, cloverleaf helmet foam, and darker lenses. Options must be ordered when contacting. Assembly: requires cover-strip and butt-joining for assembly. Comment: To fit a wider range of body types AP added 3" inch extensions to the sides of the AB and Kidney plates for a total of 6" extra inches to easily fit up to 38" waist, also added 2" inches to all legs parts for a seamless authentic look without the need of shimming, extra material can be easily trimmed to original size or custom trimmed to perfectly fit your size, also includes matching ABS strips in the event you still need shimming. Type: RS Prop Masters Country: UK Contact: studio@rspropmasters.com or http://www.rspropmasters.com/ Kit: 1.5mm ABS or 1.5mm PVC, untrimmed or ready-to-wear, only 1st Generation cast of an original ANH armor. Is Expert Infantry ready out of the box, and Centurion ready with very little work on the accessories (hand guards and such). Availability: 3-5 days Assembly: Parts are untrimmed and requires cover-strip and butt-joining for assembly. Can be ordered pre-assembled for an additional fee. Options: 1. Helmet + Armour - Kit 2. Armor only - Kit 3. Helmet - Kit 4. Helmet - Fully finished and hand painted 5. Armor + Helmet - Armor trimmed to your specification but not assembled + Fully finished helmet. 6. "Fully loaded" - Accessory package, when bought together with armor. Contains strapping kit, latex handguards, rubber gloves, canvas belt, etc.. All prices are excluding shipping. Comments: The only 1st Generation cast of an original ANH armor. Comes unaltered with all the good and bad that brings. May require more skill to assemble than other kits. Extremely accurate when assembled with care. Armour is more generous than SDS or AP, but not as large as RT-Mod or AM. Type: RWA (RWA Creations) Country: Isle of Wight, UK Contact: Email to rwacreations@gmail.com .. Facebook: RWA Creations Availability: 6 weeks Kit: ANH, ESB untrimmed kit in 1.5mm ABS, 2mm ABS, 2mm Acrylic capped. Black or White. Options: Helmet assembly service or fully finished (excluding padding). Neck seals, Canvas Belts, Aluminium Thermal detonator clips. 2" longer shins available on request. Type: T/MC Country: USA Contact: tray@traynichols.com or PM Tray on the FISD boards Kit: .090 ABS, untrimmed, ANH Derived. Helmet is screen derived. Armor similar to TE2 and AP but with some parts being different and others being modified. The left inner shin is a duplicate of the right outer shin. The arms (Bicep, forearm and shoulders) are the same, there is no unique left and right arm. The helmet comes with resin cast hovi mic tips, which are acceptable for EIB use, and all assembly material excluding paint. Comes with your choice of Smoked gray bubble lenses or flat dark green lenses. This is most comparable to AP with some slight changes. Availability: 3-4 months for delivery and sometimes sooner than that. Assembly: Seams are overlapping joints making it a reasonably easy build, though one can use finishing strips instead. Comments: The armor is ABS, not bright white and glossy like FX. Due to material thickness lines are a little softer than some other makers. Should shine well with Mr Sheen. NOTE: available in black too! Type: WTF (Walt) Country: USA Contact: Walt on FISD Kit: ABS, untrimmed, ANH derived Availability Current wait times are 6-8 weeks. Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed, parts butt joined with finishing strips. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. === ANH FAN SCULPT === Type: Troopermaster ( TM ) Country: UK Contact: Please see info contained in for sale threads when posted. Availability: PM to ask, varies Kit: ABS, fan sculpt. Reputedly the most accurate fan sculpt. Seams on legs and arms are butt-joins with cover strips. Available in ANH, ESB and ROTJ (and snowtroopers) Options: untrimmed, trimmed or ready to wear. Comments: This is really beautiful armour and extremely movie-accurate. It comes at the price of being pretty tricky to assemble though, with potentially a long wait for supply. TM now supplies all his armour in acrylic-capped ABS. His ABS suits are incredibly glossy and, if assembled with care, look fabulous. Armour is more generous than SDS or AP, but not as large as RT-Mod or AM, although he also offers an XL shin for taller/bigger troopers. Type: RT-Mod (RT) / RT-PandaCountry: CanadaContact: rtmodpanda@gmail.comKit: ABS, close trimmed, fan sculpt. Updated bucks for the majority of the armor and helmet in 2018 to meet Centurion level standards (separate ab button plate, kidney notches, etc).Availability: Currently about 8 month wait.Assembly: Parts are "close trimmed" (a thicker return edge is left on all parts for those seeking more accuracy for strapping brackets etc. Final trimming is far less work than "untrimmed off the buck" armor. Designed to be easy to put together (regarded as one of the easiest kits to assemble as all "halves of lumbs etc. line up to one another without problems). Designed for butt joined limbs with a formed ridge with cover strips. Some parts can be formed without ridges present. Helmet comes as a kit as of 2019.Options: ANH stunt, ESB hand armorComments: Designed especially for taller/larger body types and has more capacity to fit these troopers (without shims) than most makes of armor. There are 2 sizes of back armor, 3 sizes of thighs, 2 sizes of shins / calves, and the ab / kidney will accommodate approx 40" waist without shims. The thighs are wider and can accomodate a wide range of sizes. Female troopers often order thighs / shins to accommodate wider hips etc. The armor and helmet are sculpted at 4% larger than an original kit. The difference is subtle but makes fitting/sizing much easier for taller/larger troopers (has been worn very easily by troopers from 6' to 6'5"). Type: AM (Armor Master) Country: USA Contact: davesdarksidedepot@gmail.com Kit: ABS. All body armor components including face piece and ear pieces are .090 ABS. The one piece dome/back is formed using .125 ABS, as this piece is formed over a rather deep mold and anything thinner can cause thin regions which will eventually crack or fracture. White .060 ABS blanks included to cut as cover-strips. Availability: Normally 4-6 weeks or less. Assembly: Comes trimmed out of the box, but you will still be required to adjust for proper fit to your body size. Good choice for large troopers, but can be cut down. Comments: Chest and back molds have been updated to address past concerns, and are now acceptable to Centurion level. They are now including a custom, die-cut Imperial cog themed helmet liner for the helmets, mounting velcro included. They're very comfortable and take three minutes to install. Hovis are professionally cast aluminum. Hero helmets are now available. === ROTJ ARMOR === Type: CFO - note this is for ROTJ armor only (ideal for ROTJ, TK Commander, or Incinerator Troopers). Country: UK Contact: PM Sskunky on FISD Kit: ABS or HIPS untrimmed. Kits can come in lite, full, assembled and weathered please inquire for prices and custom orders. ABS is standard and screen accurate. We can make the armour in any colour HIPS with a 25% deposit. Kits come complete with all plastic parts. Helmets come with resin mic tips cast from an original, black rubber trims, decals and lenses all subject to availability and stock. Availability: Kits available at all times with approx 4 week turnaround time. We have a US distributor who will be able to ship kits within the USA. Assembly: Parts are trimmed and designed to be easy to put together - along with RT is the easiest kit to build. Comments: These suits are cast from original therefore there will be warps, lumps, bumps etc. present on the plastic. The original suits were made to fit actors in the region of 5'10" and 180lb.... there is some flexibility as with all armour which is down to assembly. This armour is no way sanitised or idealised, it is a true representation of what is seen on screen in STAR WARS "The Return Of The Jedi". Other Notes: Hand guards O2 canister/detonator detail and end caps, belt, knee belt and shoulder straps are own sculpt. Necessary/minimal sharpening was done to the moulds to attain the correct level of sharpness lost from the original fibreglass moulds obtained from Cameron Oakley. The original shape and contours are intact and the details and edges have been sharpened as documented in various threads on the FISD and other prop forums. === ROGUE ONE ARMOR === Type: Jimmiroquai Country: PI Contact: email jimmiroquai@yahoo.com Kit: Kits are lightweight flexible fiberglass. Availability: PM to ask, varies Assembly: Fully trimmed and partially assembled, e.g. if it fits out of the box one can go straight to rigging and painting. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. === FIRST ORDER (The Force Awakens | The Last Jedi) ARMOR === Type: Jimmiroquai Country: PI Contact: email jimmiroquai@yahoo.com Kit: Kits are lightweight flexible fiberglass. Can come with both TFA or TLJ details. Availability: PM to ask, varies Assembly: Untrimmed. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. === NO LONGER MADE === Type: TE2 Country: USA Contact: HDPblues on FISD Kit: HIPS, untrimmed, ANH derived Availability: None, since a long time. Best to look elsewhere. Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed, parts butt joined with finishing strips, then painted. Comments: Helmet is considered very screen accurate. While he rarely makes armor anymore, he's a solid buy if you find any. Type: FX Availability: No longer made. Do not buy this armor - we list it only for posterity in case you pick up a suit second hand from a current Legion member. Kit: ABS, trimmed, fan sculpt. Comments: The armor can be made to be FISD EI acceptable for about $50 and an afternoon of work. The helmet is not acceptable by any Detachment's program, and many GML's are no longer allowing it to be accepted at the Legion level. Type: Older/Original AM (1.0) NE Country: USA Contact: troopergear@gmail.com Kit: .090 gauge ABS - trimmed - Fan sculpt Availability: N/A Assembly: Butt joining required for the legs. Arms can be overlapped but trimming those overlaps off and butt joining is recommended. Comes trimmed out of the box, but you will still be required to trim for proper fit to your body size. Comments: An updated version of the older AM kits with a more accurate helmet and some other accessories. Best suited for the larger troopers who can have problems fitting into screen-sized kits. Comes in full or "lite" kits. Lite kits come without helmet, ABS cement or polish.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    1. Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra - Return of the Jedi in Concert; 20 July 2019 No pictures from intermission yet, but I did the "mannequin" trick twice - the first was unintentional, but the second was entertaining.
  34. 1 point
    Troop 6 Toy Con, Parsippany NJ
  35. 1 point
    Rather than drill holes in the ab and use snaps, I used magnets. I made little pockets using the extra fabric from the belt and used fabric fusion to glue them to the belt. I glued magnets on the inside of the ab piece. The belt just pops into place.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Ab buttons. I made vinyl masks with my Cricut. The edges of the vaccuum forming aren't sharply defined, so I tried to judge where the edge transitioned.
  38. 1 point
    Well I'm a bit biased but I love mine lol
  39. 1 point
    新兵TK12035报到,这貌似没什么人上啊!
  40. 1 point
    I have been doing these videos for some time and have finally gotten around to post them, i still have more and i should have them done very soon. So if you have a few hours and want to know how i put together a TK from scratch i would go to check it out. I have been helping my garrison with there TK build so i have done alot of TK's, a couple of clones, biker scouts and TFA. The TK's are closer to my heart and they are much easier to build, I currently have one ANH centurion and one deathtrooper centurion and have helped four of my TK brothers get EIB and two get centurion. I try to build to the highest level from the start and i find it is only a little bit more and it is easier this way. I also fit the kits to the size of the wearer so it looks good on them. Anyways i hope this helps somebody to build theirs, so with the Motto troopers helping troopers, long live the Empire! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeDunMes3e0wQn8_ns-ma4g
  41. 1 point
    I only posted this a few months ago, which is why you may not have seen it. The best diagram I have is from Jeff (wingnut65) of the Tampa Bay Squad (below). The only difference in mine is that I use 2 snaps on the shoulder bell to shoulder bridge connection.
  42. 1 point
    I spent some time Thursday morning making up a plate to cover the Husky logo on my armor bin (wanted to get it finished before trooping the premier): It's a piece of 3.25" x 12" white ABS (leftover snap plate material) that I painted black. I then drew up and cut out the design with my vinyl cutter. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
  43. 1 point
    I thought these frown references (pix/collage) that I made up of the original ANH helmets, might be of help to anyone working on their frown for their ANH Hero or Stunt lid. In my opinion, if you are trying to achieve that mean, gritty look, that the ANH lids have, a lot of the look comes from the way the teeth are cut out, and the paint job that is done to the frown. If you look at the original screen used helmets from ANH, the teeth openings were very jagged and rough (due to the quick way they were assembled). I think that the paint job also plays a major factor. Some people take pain staking measures to get the frown lines straight and perfect, which can change the mood of the frown. Also, some people take the approach of removing a lot of the material that gives the teeth the 3-D effect, with the openings to the teeth being perfectly straight without a lot of return edge to them. In my opinion this tends to make the frown look less menacing. One of the charming things that I love about the original ANH helmets were the gnarled jagged frowns. I coin it the "shark tooth look". The have one mean, gnarled looking frown. But whatever way you want your frown to be, the gnarled jagged look or the clean look, hope this helps.
  44. 1 point
    Here is what I did for mine: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  45. 1 point
    Just going to add a bit on battery info. 3.6 and 3.7 are just nominal voltages - the voltage of any lithium-ion varies with the charge level. A properly protected lithium-ion will be at 4.0-4.2v fresh off the charger, spend most of it's run time at ~3.63.7v, then shut itself off to prevent damage when it drops to ~2.5v. Recharge and repeat. It's very important to get a protected cell - aside from the fire hazard (a shorted cell won't necessarily go *boom*, but it can heat up to the point of damaging equipment and even starting a fire that water won't put out), an unprotected cell might charge over the typical 4.2v limit and damage the iComm circuitry. The size lithium-ion to use in a AA holder is perhaps more commonly referred to as a 14500 (name identifies the size - 14mm diameter, 50mm long). In the US, Trustfire is a decent budget brand. I've used XTAR that work well. Genuine Ultrafires are fine. Try to avoid something-fire brands from chinese sellers - they might very well be knock-off cells of dubious quality. Especially avoid any 14500 rated at anything much higher than 900mAh - it's almost guaranteed to be a chinese cell with a fake rating. Most 14500s will be rated at 800-900mAh.
  46. 1 point
    Event Name: Washington Nationals Star Wars Day May 27, 2017 Wow! That was a fun event! Thanks to everyone that could make it out. While we did get a few light showers, the lower temperatures made up for it! A lot more people were able to troop the entire game. (That was over six hours in kit!) The Nats did a great job of taking care of us again. They let us into the shop early to buy swag this year. They also brought us Chewbacca coozies. (I had to use mine on Memorial Day...) As usual, they brought in drinks, sandwiches, and most importantly cookies. The guys delivering cookies received loud cheers when they arrived. This year, they had a security person assigned to each team along with one intern for every two teams. This made it much easier for us to get around. They also helped keep us on schedule. Personally, I found that the shifts when very quickly. Actually, we had a number of people that wanted to keep trooping rather than taking their full breaks. My only recommendation for next year would be to have a few people assigned to table duty rather than having the squires try to man the table while their teams were using the backdrop. Thanks again to everyone that made this event a success!!! Troopers: Jess Wedlock - TK Eric Grubb - TB Bryan Curtis - Boba Anna Mitchell - Jango (GT) Chris Williams - Montross (GT) Bria LaVorgna - ID (GT) Phil Gastilo - TK Justin Strait - SL (GT) Solomon Odom - TK (GT) Kate Walsh - DZ (CG) Brian Robinson - TK (GT) Ben Jen - TK (GT) Emily Schram - Rex Dieter Jobe - (GT) Jason Pizzino - DZ (GT) BJ Brown - ID (GT) Matthew Morley - TK Melissa Ralph - ID William Ralph - TK Anna Mac Adams - Director Isard (GT) Catherine Evans - DZ (GT) Josh Orr - TR Scott Huls - TX (GT) Drew Brasfield - TK (GT) Virgil Bauer - TK Sean Timmothy Waites - TK Stephen Bauchan - TK Charlie Mann - TI Charles Singer - FO TIE Squires: Sabrina Odom Stacey Pizzino Patrick Talbott Kelly Bauer Natalie Bauchan Kevin Lackie This was a great event! My wife squired for me, as usual, and we spent the entire day at the ballpark. My Mom and my 2 kids entered the park at 2 and sat with everyone else. Once again, this was a cross-garrison troop. We had several groups of us trooping around the ballpark at all times.
  47. 1 point
    I am thinking of modeling the TK laser sword in 3D, then shelling the inside to fit Darth Vader Force fx innards. Then cast it in resin, attach some greeblies, then add in the FX parts to complete. If it works, I might make kits available. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
  48. 1 point
    Nomex. Times a thousand. Washable. Designed for long comfortable use.
  49. 1 point
    Wouldn't all the armor except for TM be ROTJ derived? I was under the impression that all the suits that were available right (with obvious exceptions) now were cast from the suit that TE's cohort pulled from a trash can at Elstree Studios, which was a beaten up ROTJ suit.
  50. 1 point
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