Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/23/2021 in all areas

  1. Greetings one and all It is that time of year where we all hope to spend quality time with our families friends and loved ones. On behalf of the staff of this mighty detachment, we wish you all a happy, safe and prosperous holiday season. Thank you to everyone that has contributed towards making FISD one of, if not the best, friendliest, and welcoming department in the Legion. Take care everyone With unquestioned loyalty and much love TK11469
    11 points
  2. So here is the plan- I recently built a spare ANH E-11 from one of Bryan's crazy accurate 3D kits, (link here), but since I will need a blaster for my current ESB armor build I will eventually need a weapon, so I decided to convert it. In looking at the reference photos here, there are 2 main versions- one using an actual Sterling L2A3 and a resin type (Pugman). Note that there are also some really odd versions, but I am not sure of their background so I am not referencing them. Because I will be using the ANH version, mine will be a based on the Sterling. IMPORTANT! For those doing an ESB build, there are 2 versions of this blaster that can be used for approval. Neither has the Hengstler counter or power cylinders, and the differences can be found in the CRL here. This version is just more involved. Sterling L2A3 version Resin cast "Pugman" version (note scope rail) Materials: 1. JB Plastic Weld epoxy putty- When dry, this can be sanded, drilled and painted. AWESOME stuff! 2. Bondo Glazing/spot putty (for a smoother finish) 3. Sandpaper (various grits- 80 to 400) 4. Needle files 5. Dremel type rotary tool 6. Sanding drums 1. 2. 4. 5. 6. All that being said, time to get down to business. In addition to the greeblies, there are a few issues on the main body that will need to be addressed: The first thing to do is grind off the end muzzle disc, as most of the references do not show one present. After removing the disc, I filled the holes where the screws were with the Plastic Weld putty (sorry, I lost the pics of the filled part), let it dry 4-5 hours and then filed/sanded it down. A thin coat of the glazing putty made it perfectly smooth. Note that I put the new holes in the top/bottom as opposed to the sides. Before References After grinding Finished After removing the D-ring/mounting plate**, some glazing putty, sanding and paint made for a smooth finish. **You may be able to pop it off with some pliers, but I had to grind mine down. The only other alteration I made to the body was to remove the small tubular part that holds the grub screw on the side of the magazine well. After Dremeling (is that even a word? lol) it off level and filling the hole with the Plastic weld, it was sanded and painted. Before References Detail- (This is from my ROTJ build, but it gives you an idea of what to remove. Keep the triangle part. Finished Next up, the greeblies... stay tuned
    8 points
  3. Santa hid a beautiful hunk of resin under the tree this year for me. I thought I'd do a build thread for this thing... whatever I end up doing to it. This is the blaster in it's stock gorgeous state from Quest Design Canada. It's just lovely. And that loveliness is the reason I'm a bit hesitant to hack it up. I mean, I will, but it's just so pretty out of the box. I asked for mine to be shipped as unbuilt as possible and Quest wasn't too happy about that request, but agreed to have the counter and rear cap not installed. Don't get me wrong, Quest Design was very nice to deal with, but they really didn't want to ship anything but a completed blaster. And complete it is. I'll detail how many of the parts on this are NOT resin using my patented Magnet Technique (tm). Metal grip screw 3 metal screws on the front scope (I don't believe the tiniest front screws are metal). And, of course, the included aluminum scope rail. Metal trigger guard. The screws holding it in place are also metal. The tiny screw behind the power cyls is metal. And there's a screw holding the aluminum rail in place. Did I mention the aluminum rail and the nice mount for the counter? So awesome. And here's all the goodies I have to upgrade this unsuspecting blaster with. To my knowledge, this is the last kit that @T-Jay had in stock. I received it late November and am still overjoyed to have it. SO. Many. Parts!!! Red lens monocular to hack up and install in the scope. Hollowed out Hengstler counter! A plethora of micro screws and nuts. Single LED for scale. The larger screws and goodies. And a set of greeblies from @justjoseph63 Now I just have to figure out what I want to change and what I'm happy with. The scope and counter are certainly getting some luv. The screws at the barrel front are also easy marks. Probably the grip lock screw as well. And I need to print that spring forming tool. If anyone has hacked up one of these, I'd love some suggestions.
    7 points
  4. Now to finish up.. The front/rear scope greebs have been CA (super) glued on, and to keep them secure I added wood screws from underneath. I countersunk the holes slightly to where the screw head would be flush with the bottom of the rail and would not be noticeable. For the rebar clips, I went with slotted pan head screws, as they look like the ones in the reference images. Reference Pan head (slotted) Finished product The screw on the rectangle greeb is a round-head star screw. I looked all over, but this is the closest I could come. CA glue added to keep it from twisting. The buttons and "swoop" were simply CA glued on. And here it is. I will painting the brass grip screw black and weathering it slightly as soon as the paint cures. Epilogue: Are there details that are not "ideal"? Absolutely. Will it pass at Centurion? I like to believe so, lol. Are there things that I would do differently? Probably, but I'm pretty pleased with the end result. Thanks for looking!! Since I have the molds now, if anyone wants a set of these greebs I can hook you up for around 11 bucks (including the screws and postage). PM me for more info. (Not shown actual size) NEXT UP! ROTJ build...
    7 points
  5. Due to the time of year this has happened, I think the family need some space to grieve first. Because Terrell was a retired member I am not sure if his home garrison has looked into anything as yet. What I can tell you is I already have the support of other Detachments if we move forward to make something happen to help the family. I know there are a a lot of troopers out their that would love to give back for the horrific situation, so I will keep everyone informed
    7 points
  6. Greetings all Today we launch our newly revised Detachment Tri Fold brochure. It's been quite a long time since we actually had these available. Since then many things have changed leading us to updating some of the text to include new costumes, and have more relevant information. Originally these were done in a limited run by the member who created them, but nowadays we have moved this to a "print your own" service making them accessible to all countries around the globe. Files are available to all full 501st members on request, and are completed in a very high resolution to ensure quality in a finished product. The thread can be found below for more information and how to access the files.
    6 points
  7. While that tip would have been probably been nice before the dremeling, I've apparently never had a set of spade bits. There's a couple in my drill drawer but not enough, so I've now got a nice set on the way from amazon for the next project that needs them. Thanks Tino!! It's always nice to expand the tool collection. Today's update - the Hengstler counter. I originally ordered the hollow/empty counter from Tino to keep my options on this build open. I thought it might be good for electronics. I also wanted to print my own numbers as I did on my Hellhounds build. And then I was installing a set of early Miata gauges in a cluster for photos and spotted the odometer size. Look at those numbers... those 6 digits. Perfect? MAYBE!!! I make mostly Miata parts for a living, specifically gauge components, so I have a lot of clusters laying around. I fished a parts cluster out of the shed and harvested the odometer from it. A few minutes of work got some digits free and shoved in the Hengstler box for sizing. The box both closed and showed the numbers through the window. Proof of concept! Then I spent the next hour carefully hacking the odometer into place in the counter. The reset shaft (the "top" shaft seen in the pic where I'm holding the odometer) is the exact size for the holes in the Hengstler. It's a bit too long, but a quick snip got it cut down to size. I kept the security spacers between the digits for nice spacing. I moved that blank column from after the ones to before the hundred thousands. And I had to neuter the reset ability. The white teeth got nearly completely cut out and the springy reset button no longer springs. But that's okay. Having an NA Miata odometer inside my Hengstler with my TK number is maybe the best thing I could ever hope for. I've owned an NA Miata for almost 22 years now. It's part of my soul. And now it's part of my blaster.
    6 points
  8. NEW In Memoriam Detachment Leader CRL Updates Detachment Affiliation Elections Merchandise Hall of Fame Just For Laughs Update Your Build Threads Around the Detachment INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS Common FISD Acronyms and TK Glossary Pre Approval Forum 3D Section Field Exercise Award Imperial Attaché Program Fire Teams EIB & Centurion: What do these terms mean? Need Help Ask the Deployment Officers Advanced Tactics Awards Public Relations Staff List 2020 Follow FISD On the 24th of November Bernie Steenbergen Jr., TB-7946, passed away. Troopers who knew Bernie and trooped with him will remember him as a cheerful man who got a lot of joy and fulfillment out of his hobbies. Membership of the 501st Legion and the Dutch Garrison was a big part of his life. Unfortunately Bernie has joined the other troopers in the Hall of Eternal Legionnaires way too early. We wish Marielle, his friends and family a lot of love and strength in dealing with this loss. His girlfriend, Marielle TB-11300, wrote the following farewell note for him: “Today it has already been two weeks since you left us. Time stopped moving for me. I don’t know what to do without you. I love you so much and miss you a lot. “TB-7946 reporting for duty!” you used to shout so proudly! Star Wars and Re-enactment were your two big passions. Your house was filled with it. All our talks about DC, MARVEL, Star Wars, Transformer, Ninja Turtles, G.I. Joe, Re-enactment, history, which would last for hours – I’ll never forget those! This coming January, we would have known each other for ten years, of which three and a half years you were my sweetheart! You are the most passionate trooper I have ever known!” Our condolences go out to his family, friends. "Buckets Off" On the 9th December 2021 Phil Yellot (TK-656) passed away, he was a member of the 501st Legion since 2004. He made an imposing Darth Vader. One of the biggest highlights of his trooping experiences was to have been selected for the 2007 Rose Parade. All who knew Phil knew him as a generous, kind, gentle man with the largest heart imaginable. He left behind a huge number of friends, family, and beloved animals. Our condolences go out to his family, friends. "Buckets Off" Eternal Legionnaire Gallery: https://www.501st.com/members/memoriam.php Happy New Year and welcome to FISD 2022 I hope everyone had a safe and wonderful holiday season and are ready to get back into trooping, and being awesome on the FISD platforms. If you haven't been on the forums for a while, we welcome you to come in and check them out, re connect with our community and say hello. You might be surprised how the place looks these days. Updates: Our Celebration patch has been submitted to Legion, and we are presently waiting for the all clear, We have just launched an interest thread to help us gauge some numbers so please add your interest and approximate quantity to that post. There will be updates posted as we hear back from DLFL and pricing will be finalised when we have a better indication on total numbers. Please note this is only an interest thread, the sales thread will go live when we have all the information at hand. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51827-celebration-2022-fisd-patch-interest-thread/ While we are on merch, we should have the design concept for the 2022 Detachment shirt finalised in the coming week and as soon as we do, that will also be posted and the approval form submitted. We are also hoping to finalise the vendor and work on distribution so make sure you keep an eye open for those pending posts on our forums. CRL proposed changes for OT TK's We have 6 proposals for changes to our Stunt and Hero original trilogy TK CRL's. These have been discussed thoroughly and are now set up under Poll's. This is your opportunity to vote for or against these proposed changes. 5 are for Centurion level only and in some cases are simple wording and explanation improvements. 1 is for a basic level amendment to the Thermal Detonator which would affect all GML approvals. The changes basically make it easier for higher level approvals to help prevent members from potentially having to pull apart and rebuild the TD if they wish to apply for higher levels. The Poll's can be found in this section of the forums. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/35-detachment-only-general-discussion/ January is the last full operating month for the term, and as of the start of February the election cycle kicks off yet again. If you wish to vote in the detachment elections, make sure you check your affiliation to FISD so you are able to participate. Legion run a mass membership update prior to Feb but occasionally a few members slip through the cracks and their connection to the detachments fails. If you find you are not showing affiliation on your legion membership, you can PM myself and I will attempt to manually approve you. This usually happens when the email you sign up to legion does not match the email you signed up to FISD with. Your GML also needs to sign off on your affiliation when you are fully approved as a TK, so you can also discuss it with them. This will need to be done prior to the election cycle starting. It has been a pleasure to serve you as detachment leader for the last two years and I thank you all for supporting FISD in any way you could. Lets hope 2022 is kinder to all, and I am excited to see what new adventures it brings. With Unquestioned Loyalty Andrew Franke TK11469 "Sly11" Detachment Leader CRL Update Polls ANH/ESB/ROTJ Currently there are some polls taking place on the forums in regards to some CRL updates, to have your say follow the links below (501st approved) ANH/ESB/ROTJ E-11 blaster ESB handguards ANH/ESB ear placement ANH/ESB/ROTJ ab plate ANH/ESB thigh ridge gap ANH/ESB/ROTJ thermal detonator With elections starting at the beginning of February it's time to check your detachment affiliation. OK so you look at your Legion profile and it shows that your detachment affiliation to FISD is pending, or otherwise incorrect. Why does this happen, and what is detachment affiliation anyway, and what will FISD do about it? The answer is that detachment affiliation is only ever used once a year, and for one purpose. The only time the Legion ever uses it for anything is to determine who can run for DL and who can vote in detachment elections. That's it. Otherwise it is pretty much ignored and not used for anything. The process of validating detachment membership is cumbersome and time consuming because people use different email information between their Legion and detachment logins, and that there is no way to bulk update the rosters. For a small detachment it is not a big deal to do this manually, but for a detachment the size of FISD with hundreds and soon thousands of 501st members, it's impossible. Fortunately we have technical folk both on FISD and in the Legion web team. Once a year they take a feed from FISD's database and do a bulk update on the Legion database. This occurs right before the election cycle starts and is done once per year. Pro tips: 1) Ensure the email address you use on the Legion & FISD boards are the exact same. 2) Ensure that your FISD profile has the correct TKID. 3) IMPORTANT! You MUST be in the right security group. It should be "501st Stormtrooper" in order for the automated system to pull you over. This thread is where you get your detachment access updated. 4) If after the bulk update is complete and your profile is still not updated, and you are 100% sure your info is in sync between the two boards, then ask for to the Legion web team. They should get feedback on why this isn't working. 5) If all else fails, ping the FISD staff. Which basically means that we'll simply tell the 501st web team to bulk approve everyone 6) If still you have no luck you can contact the legion web team directly via email: lwm@501st.com To check detachment affiliation go to the 501st holocron here, login using your 501st forum username and password, click on YOUR PROFILE DATA, then look down the lower part of the page for YOUR UNIT AFFILIATION, then under DETACHMENT AFFILIATION. If you do not see FISD listed reach out to your GML (garrison membership liaison) as they can add it if you are an approved Stormtrooper. If FISD shows as PENDING it should be automatically updated just before elections, if not you can contact our DL @Sly11 and request a manual update. 2022 Legion Election & Timeline It's nearly that time of year again, nominations for Legion / Detachment / Garrison / Outpost / Squad begin 1st February and close 6th February. Please ensure you have spoken to the person who you wish to nominate to make sure they actually want to run. Nominations Start: 31st January @ 12.01am GMT and are open for 5 days Closing 4th February 11.59pm GMT If only one person is nominated for a particular position then it is filled and election process ends. If more than one person is nominated: Q &A Starts: Q & A's Starts: 5th February @ 12.01am GMT Ends: 9h February @ 11.59pm GMT Closing Statements: Starts: 10th February @ 12.01am GMT Ends: 10th February @ 11.59pm GMT Voting: Starts: 11th February @ 12.01am GMT Ends: 15th February @ 11.59pm GMT Transition Period: 16th February @ 12.01am GMT to 20th February @ 11.59pm GMT Take Office: 21st February @ 12.01am GMT Election Issues/Access You may reach the Legion Election Moderators by emailing elections@501st.com Link to legion election here Expert Infantry Coin (15th Anniversary Version) OPEN (Only a few coins Remaining) The time has come for the new run of EIB gold challenge coins! The 15th Anniversary gold EIB coins are available now. PLEASE NOTE: You must be an Expert Infantry member to purchase one of these coins. If you've ever purchased an Expert Infantry gold coin before, from any run, you cannot purchase another one. These are once per EI! You can find the sales thread here 2022 Celebration Patch RUN OPEN As always we highly recommend group orders where possible. Talk to your Squad, Unit or Garrison mates to help lessen the blow of freight. This run is being handled through Endor Finders, please see the link & password below. The Password to access the patch is: celebration2022 You can find the thread here Run will close on the 14th February so the patches can be ordered before the end of Feb and new term Here we are kicking off another New Year so let’s kick it off with this epic photo!Setting’ it off in 2022 please welcome TK - 14631 Ryan to the Stormtrooper Hall of Fame! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48629-39-tk-14631-troop-log/#comment-678648 With Unquestioned Loyalty Aaron Gibson TK-99725 "Pyrates" Curator Hall of Fame "FISD Memes" Thank you to Luca "Morgi" TK66744 for starting a FISD specific meme thread, hope to see more of these in the future not only by you but by others as well. You can find the thread here WE NEED YOU TO UPDATE YOUR BUILD THREADS As most would be aware we are diligently working through the forums updating watermarked images, missing images and broken links, this has taken over a year so far and has been a monumental task but there is still a lot of work ahead of us. Members build threads are one of the biggest areas of watermarked/missing images and we are asking you the membership to help and update your build threads yourselves as this is just too big a task for staff. Build threads requiring updates are being moved over to this area https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/241-build-threads-requireing-maintenance/ Thank you in advance for your cooperation. New FISD Tri Fold Brochure We have just launched our newly revised Detachment Tri Fold brochure. It's been quite a long time since we actually had these available and since then many things have changed leading us to updating some of the text to include new costumes, and have more relevant information. Originally these were done in a limited run by the member who created them, but nowadays, we have moved this to a print your own service making them accessible to all countries around the globe. Files are available to all full 501st members on request, and are completed in a very high resolution to ensure quality in a finished product. The thread can be found here for more information and how to access the files. INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS For a full list of FISD awards head here Are you new to the FISD and wondering what the heck all those abbreviations and strange sounding terms mean? To help you @justjoseph63 has started a list of the most commonly used ones that will give you some insight. If you have ANY questions about a particular term that is not listed or suggestions for new ones please contact Joseph. You can find the list here Pre Approval Forum allows future Troopers the opportunity to submit photos of their completed build to be reviewed by the Staff, Imperial Attaches and others in preparation for forwarding it to their GML for approval. Any and all advice/suggestions given will be specific, constructive, helpful and respectful. Please note that this program will NOT take the place of your local GML, as Detachments are not chartered for costume approval and can not override a GMLs decision, but is instead a peer review program designed to help you look your best and offer guidance and positive feedback. For more information on this program, please visit the link here Don't forget to visit our 3D section when next surfing the FISD forums, there is plenty of useful information to potentially help you on your next TK adventure. You might be feeling may generous and share with our community a new TK related 3D file and maybe win yourself a 3D contributors award so check out the details below and be part of the in house 3D community. Here is a link to the FISD 3D Contributor program. Don't forget to create a troop log here on FISD and get awarded for your adventures The list of accomplished troopers keeps growing, so get on board and register your troops today Simply start (or update!) your troop log, keep the running total in the title, and post (at least!) a date and name for the official 501st event where you wore your TK! Once you've hit a milestone count, go over to the "Field Exercise Awards -- Post your milestones here" thread to request your profile be updated! Simple, right? Award Recipients December - January TK46116 "CallMeMrTibbles" Richard - Are you an approved TK that spends more time on the boards than the average Trooper? Do you enjoy using your knowledge to help out future and existing Troopers? If so, we would like to invite you to join the Imperial Attaché program! Members of the I.A. team are chosen to help out not only those here on the boards, but on a local level as well. Our aim is to have at least one in each and every Garrison, Squad and Outpost in the entire legion to be the eyes and ears of the FISD on a local level. For a complete list of Imperial Attaches, go here Some of the benefits: Access to exclusive Attaché merch., including patches, IA patch , IA Rocker For a complete list of Imperial Attaches, go here You may also be in the running for an Imperial Attaché Award Imperial Attaché Award for those attaché's who have gone above and beyond [minimum 1 year of service]. You can find a list of prior recipients here Want to setup a "Fire Team? the Fire Team program is completely optional, and is intended to help form a common identity and spirit of camaraderie among 501st Legion Stormtroopers in the same geographic area/garrison that troop together. Fire Teams are not officially recognized by the 501st Legion nor the FISD, although they will be able to access a Fire Team sub-forum on the detachment website. You can find more information here Welcome to our 64th Fire Team: Region: Los Angeles ; Southern California Garrison Name: Angel City Elite Congrats Troopers!! (NOTE 501st membership is needed to view this area) So what exactly are and levels? These programs were designed for those who choose to take their armor above and beyond the minimum requirements for basic 501st Legion approval. It gives you the chance to show a level of dedication and pride that takes your armor closer to being as "screen accurate" as possible, without as much extra work as you may realize! You can find more information on the programs here ASK THE D.O.s For those of you who have a particular issue (or issues) before or after submitting for Expert Infantry / Centurion level approval, in order to get you an answer faster you can now privately contact the entire Deployment Officer team at one time! Questions about fitting, repairs, CRL standards/requirements or anything pertaining to reaching Levels 2 and 3 are not only welcomed, but encouraged. Keep in mind that no question is too small, and that your queries will only be seen by the D.O. Staff. We are here to help in any way we can, so please feel free to send us a message by clicking on this link: @Deployment Officer Team and we will get back to you A.S.A.P.! This area lists all those who have gone above and beyond basic approval toward screen accuracy and obtained EIB or Centurion or both. FOR December / January the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment would like to congratulate the following. Expert Infantry Badge Award: Dwight "Dsposato0" TK62345 EIB 1038 Chris "Shinyarmour1" TK43118 EIB 1039 Ben "Ebio Amisi" TK19984 EIB 1040 GREAT job on your approval, now on to Level 3! Request your free EIB certificate here You can find a list of multiple award recipients here --------------------------------------------------------------- Centurion Badge Award: No awards issued Request your free Centurion certificate here You can find a list of multiple award recipients here If you see any of these Troopers around your Garrison or Squad, be sure to congratulate them! Newsletter If you have any interesting stories or photos or something you think newsworthy please send them to me via pm. For anyone interested in having a look through any of the older newsletter they have now been moved to a new archive sub forum which you can find Here With Unquestioned Loyalty Glen "Q" Rhodes TK-85421 "gmrhodes13" PRO Newsletter Staff List 2021 Detachment Leader (DL): Andrew Franke (Sly11) TK11469 Executive Officer (DXO): Tim Waychoff (Dark CMF) Chief Deployment Officer (DCA): Joseph Pedigo (justjoseph63) TK-10963 Deployment Officer: (DCA): Mario E RT (TKSpartan) TK-48117 Deployment Officer: (DCA): Jose Maria Sanchez (Chemi) TK-30173 Lead Provost Marshal (DCOG): Steven Sheades (starsaber25) TK-10466 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Chris Pearson (themaninthesuitcase) TK-10911 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Dan Branton (CableGuy) TK-42911 Personnel Officer (PER): AC (Novatie) TK-5597 Fire Team Relations (PRO): Mark Ryner (Captsafe66) TK-4584 Content Editor At Large (PRO): Christoph (Danny) Lauber (Ripper_L) TK-55550 Content Editor Support (PRO): Tony Jobe (ukswrath) TK-10116 Content Editor Awards (PRO): This will be handled by the XO Newsletter Publisher (PRO): Glen Rhodes (gmrhodes13) TK-85421 HOF Director (PRO): Aaron (Bronx) Gibson (Pyrates) TK-99725 Attaché Ambassador (PRO) Frank Peranteau (Frank75139) TK-75139 Social Media Relations (PRO): Teresa Nuthall (Soulart) TK-41307 Social Media Relations (PRO): Jim Ferrell (Rat) TK-95970 Systems Administrator (DWM): Eric Brager (Darth Aloha) TK-9674 Systems Administrator (DWM): Mathias (Locitus) TK-2959 Detachment Founder (DF): Paul (Daetrin) TK-8020 Trading Cards Content Support (IPM): Eric Ho (Hoda) TK 77520 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Brien Edick (Harbinger) TK 92802 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Jeff Salt (wingnut) TK 50297 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Richard Tibbitts (CallMeMrTibbles) TK 46116 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Adam Wolf (revlimiter) TK 11469 Facebook: www.facebook.com/whitearmor Facebook Group: 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment (FISD) Official Twitter: www.twitter.com/FISD501st or @FISD501st Instagram: www.instagram.com/fisd501st On behalf of the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Command Staff and the Imperial Propaganda Department
    6 points
  9. Okay, time for the greeblies- I looked everywhere online for these, including Etsy, RPF etc. No luck. Seems strange that no one makes these (at least as accurate as I wanted) so after referencing and comparing the sizes from the official photos I ended up sculpting my own versions. I then made silicone molds and cast them in resin. Are they 100% perfect or exactly film accurate? Nope, but for my purposes I am happy with the way they turned out. Starting with the one on the front of the scope rail: According to this site, it was a button from a Sony Cassette Corder model TC-67. I don't think so. Sort of close, but no cigar. Here are the references from the ESB E-11 reference thread I went by- This is what I ended up with. Rear of the scope rail: No sites even attempt to explain what the heck these were, so I had to go by the references and hope for the best. References My version For the left side they used rebar clips, but after searching worldwide I don't think theses particular ones have been made in a LONG time. With the assistance of @ticopowell (THANKS, Caleb... you ROCK!) I ended up designing my own version, had them 3D printed, filled/smoothed them and cast them in resin. References My version The other right hand side greeb is this one. Fortunately, my local hardware store was having a sale on Boba Fett blaster pieces so I scored on this one. I am just kidding. Back to the sculpting board. References My version Now for the right hand side greebs. Pretty straightforward stuff here- A "swoosh" cut out of ABS and some buttons made from ABS. I made the buttons concave on one side to conform to the shape of the barrel. Last up is the scope. If using the Promo version, as per the CRL for Level 2 it must be the M-19 type. There are some pretty darned good ones you can find cast in resin (links below), but I decided to go with the metal version I found here (shown below). A great seller who I have bought a ton of stuff from. Resin versions- (link here and here). Next up, painting and mounting everything!
    6 points
  10. New Member Costume Approval Info - Elections 2022 With the Legion election period about to start January 31st, the membership database will be in lock down, during this time new member applications through your local garrison/outpost can not be finalized, you may however still submit them but they won't be processed until the end of this cycle. This does not affect the addition of any new costumes to an active members roster/profile, however it does affect any membership status changes ie: active / reserve / retired and any personal information updates. The period of membership database lockdown for 2022 starts January 31st and ends Feb 21st.
    5 points
  11. For those aiming for Centurion (or just looking to be more screen accurate) and have gaps in the lower thigh ridges, the usual way to fill them was ABS paste. That method (although tried and true) can take quite a bit of time, uses acetone and has be sanded down and polished afterward. Below is an alternative that should take less than 15 minutes and is super easy using a moldable epoxy called SUGRU (info. at bottom of this post). It is permanent, flexible, keeps it's color, will adhere to almost any surface and clean-up is a breeze. For those in Australia, a similar product that can be used is Loctite Kintsuglue (white) available at Bunnings. Link here. Thanks to Glen @gmrhodes13 for the heads-up! For this tutorial I will be using a mock-up of a thigh ridge as an example. Materials needed: 1. 1 packet of white SUGRU 2. Small scrap(s) of ABS or any thin white plastic. 3. Small straight-edge knife 4. Pliers (if using ABS) 5. Paper towel NOW LET'S GET TO IT! Step 1- Cut small shims as needed (photo 2) to cover the rear of the gap and give the Sugru something to adhere to. If using ABS, I suggest popping the scrap in boiling water for a few minutes to soften it up and allow it to conform to the correct shape (photo 3). This is where the pliers come in. It does NOT have to fit perfectly. Step 2- After you have the right shape, cut it to fit (photo 4). Step 3- Glue it in place (photo 5). CA (super) glue is fine for this as it will not be seen. DON'T WORRY ABOUT ANY TINY GAPS- the Sugru will fill them! 1 2 3 4 5 HINT: Wash your hands before using this product so you don't discolor it while applying. Step 4- Roll a small piece of the Sugru into a strip (photo 6) and then press it firmly into place (photo 7) filling the entire gap (don't forget the back side). Step 5- Using the knife edge, cut off the excess at an angle (photo 8), otherwise you may remove some of the filled area. Step 6- Wipe the edges with a paper towel to remove any residue (photo 9) being careful not to touch the filled area. 6 7 8 9 DONE! That was easy, right? Let it dry for 12 hours or so and you are good to go. Examples of filled gaps in screen used ridges SUGRU is available online or in many retail shops, but it is sold in sets of 3 packets- normally around $10.00. If you just need one, I can send you a single packet for $3.00 (my cost) in the U.S. or $3.75 outside the U.S.** This includes postage! PM me for details. **Available in the UK in single packets for £3.15- Link here. A big shout-out to Ben @Ebio Amisi for this idea!
    5 points
  12. TKs need pockets. That's just all there is to it. I've got a nice pouch velcro'd to my inner chest, but I have to take off my arms (and basically torso) to get to it. Not great for locking up the car after a parking lot change. So I started digging around this board for a storage solution and found Mayo's ( @MakeNoiseMan ) awesome drop boxes. I had to have a set of my own. Cracked the two halves free. I've never been happier about using CA glue on something. They came free with a satisfying pop. I had a bunch of left over white shoulder elastic, so it seemed like using that for the card retention straps and the hinge would work well. I cut and sealed each elastic edge. Folding elastic and then heating produces a very nice crease. Perfect fit for the larger side of the box. Hinge glued to the outside bottom of the inner boxes with E6000. And the retainer straps got glued to the inside of the outer boxes. I used blue tape to keep the E6000 from seeping through and bonding both halves of the elastic together. Seems like maybe overkill, but I had the clamps to spare. Why not let them be useful again? You can also see the industrial velco I added to the tops to keep the two halves together. Spoiler: the velcro is stupid strong. Once things were dry the next day, I sized up the hinge against the outer box and made some small black marks for where to cut. Then the elastic got re-trimmed and re-sealed. Trimming the hinge elastic exactly meant the boxes would pair up flat and not be thicker than they were before. Held in place with some magnets and left to cure another day. I added some finger grab holes to each drop box. This lets me break the stupid-strong velcro free and access the goodies inside. Note, I can't really get to stuff in these boxes with my gloves on or while trooping. The velcro is just too strong. And that's okay. I just want a place to keep my keys and ID. Maybe a couple dollars for ice cream. But if you're reading this and thinking of the boxes as a place for trading cards... ehhhh.... further modification of the idea would be needed. Maybe some weak magnets to hold the tops together. Finished! That's a useful dropbox!!! A TK pocket if you will. Proof of concept. The retaining loop is a little loose with only 1 card and a few bucks, but it's okay for now. I may tighten it later. And, for me, the money shot - A key and fob fit inside the box! Note that the little ring won't let the box close, but that's easily fixed. I have some braided metal flexible key rings on the way from amazon. Replacing the split ring with the glorified fishing line will solve this and let the box close. Reinstalled. Nothing is different from the outside. The boxes hang as they did before and have no extra thickness. SUCCESS!!!
    5 points
  13. Happy holidays to my brothers and sisters in white.
    5 points
  14. That pic! hahaha! I feel seen. Last weekend's hacking was some tiny details. This is my Before pic. It's not too bad I guess. There's decent detail. It's serviceable. But it could be better. Accurate screw/nut vs the huge thing that came with the mold. Much better! This was super easy, so I decided to start in on the three capacitors. I'll admit, they look rather wonky in this shot. They seemed a bit better IRL. They're barely visible anyway though. And just like that they're installed! This took an incredible amount of grinding to fit. The "floor" beneath these capacitors needed to be mostly flattened to get them all fitting underneath the center support/divider thing. But they fit! Rear insulators painted black, front insulators painted brown. I built the front support piece and ran wires through, around, and over. Some tiny resistors made their way underneath each capacitor. You can also just barely see the front wing. And wired up. It really looked like a mess until the spiffy red wires made their appearance. I no longer hate this and am pretty dang proud of the result. They're gonna need some careful weathering to really bring them out. And then... Reposting this to show that sad front sight. Look at that tiny thing. It's a bit better already. Please be forgiving when looking at this. I molded and sculpted this in place without removing the guard frame. It's not quite correct. The dimensions are a bit too large overall, but it's decent, about the right shape, and much much better than the nothing that was there before. The little block is made out of POR15 epoxy clay. It's easy to work and something I've used several times before. It smooths when wet and cures in about an hour. I sculpted the blocks with long thin screwdrivers. I cut down a threaded rod as per Tino's excellent tutorial. Drilled in place. I used green stuff to get the two metal pieces protruding to where I wanted them. And painted! Everything is protected by the guard. I also sanded the front of the guard flat to remove knurling where it shouldn't be. SO MUCH BETTER! Not perfect, but better than what was there. And for being sculpted in place I'm quite happy with the result. I'm feeling good about the blaster now. It's about time for paint and weathering.
    4 points
  15. Adding height to the kidney plate. Made a wooden form and cut a 3 inch piece and a 2 inch inside joiner strip. At 8.5 inches tall, adding the additional 3 inches looks huge. Will cut the arm locations and trim as necessary. This will keep me moving forward on the build (hopefully I will get a new kidney from Walt when he has formed them).
    4 points
  16. Character Research Name: Captain Cardinal; CD-0922; Archex History: Born on Jakku and was recruited by Brendol Hux. One of the first First Order Stormtroopers. Was the first captain of the First Order Stormtroopers. Given a set of red armor by Brendol Hux and made his honor guard. Was in charge of training all Stormtroopers, until Phasma joined the First Order, and then was in charge of the training of all the children who were to become stormtroopers. Was grievously wounded by Phasma, and left the First Order. He later helps the Resistance on Batuu, and eventually sacrifices his life help Batuu and the Resistance spy, Vi Moradi. Costume: There are four main visual references for Captain Cardinal. The first is the back of the book cover. Second is the promotional poster that was released with book Third is the Hasbro Black Series action figure. There are several detail pictures found here on FISD, so I will just post one. Lastly is the Black series helmet. Discrepancies: The helmet from the book cover and promotional poster is visualized as TFA style, while the Black Series action figure and helmet are from TLJ/TROS. It is my belief that the TFA style helmet/armor is correct due to the timeline. The beginning of Galaxy's Edge: Black Spire (which is a sequel of sorts to Phasma) is set several weeks after Captain Cardinal leaves the First Order. During the first part of that book, events of TFA and TLJ happen. It is fairly clear that all of Captain Cardinal's history of the first order is prior to TFA and should be similar armor. The boots are not clearly show on the book cover or promo poster, but are shown on the action figure. The boots are mentioned as being red in the novel Phasma. Captain Cardinal is described as having a red blaster in Phasma. I would assume that he would have color matching SE-44C, F-11D, and a F-11D Heavy. Armor style in book cover, promotional poster, and action figure all show standard First Order Stormtrooper armor, and not Phasma style armor. Seeing as how Phasma made her own armor and was not issued armor, Captain Cardinal should have standard TFA armor in red. The cape is show in several different ways. It is show with a silver stripe in 2 of the 3 references and no stripe in one. It is shown on the right shoulder on 2 of the 3 references and on the left shoulder on one of the references. I've reached out to Teresa Nuthall (Geeky Pink) who is making my cape. She has received guidance from the author that is is exactly like Phasma's cape, except with a grey stripe and worn on the right shoulder. Color: As far as color goes, none of the references are the exact same color, but they are all close. I am choosing to use Duplicolor Torch Red. This is the color I found that closely matches the references and also matches my gloves and shoes. All above information comes from the books Phasma and Glaxay's Edge: Black Spire, unless noted. I may add more to this section if I find any additional information.
    4 points
  17. I had some downtime today so I got to finish up my scope mod. The number 1 thing I wanted out of this blaster was a cool scope. I wasn't sure if I could accomplish it, but some metal repro kits are on ebay for $80, so I figured even if I totally destroyed this scope, it wouldn't be too painful to replace. I managed to find the right size square security bit to remove the scope. I also took the little monocular from Tino apart and removed the included Quest screws to be swapped out with the more accurate ones. Step 1 was drilling out the nose. Pretty easily done since my drill bit collection had one of the right size. I drilled a bit farther into the scope than the front plate depth. Because that front plate was coming off. I wanted to have light shine through the scope, which meant drilling up at an angle from the front to meet the hole from the back. I didn't want to do that through the scope's nose and then rebuild the nose with putty later. It seemed like slicing off the front plate was easiest and best. That razor saw is coming in clutch for this build. This is the front side. I hollowed it out a LOT and opened up as large a porthole as the material allowed. And this is the back. There are no words for the sheer volume of resin dust covering my garage and every part of my being. It got EVERYWHERE. And it was not quick. Drill. Sand. Hollow. Drill. Blow. Sand. Drill. So very much work. But I got a pretty straight hole through the body, I didn't blow through any of the walls (though you can see light through part of the base) and I got the monocular elements to fit!! Rear element test fitted. This just looks so damn cool. I love the orange coated element. I got the reticle in place as well. It IS indeed right side up when installed, even though you really cannot make out the numbers with your eyes. The only way I could figure out which way was up was with the camera. "Completed" front. It still needs clean up, paint, and weathering of course. But I'm a proud trooper right now! The nose plate glued back on just fine. The gap isn't quite even all the way around. I'll probably clean that up with the dremel cut off wheel (very shallow cutting) before paint. Glue still drying on the rear element. The way light is projected out the front. SO dang cool. And no spending money on a replacement scope for me!
    4 points
  18. Greetings and a Happy New Year from the North of Germany, I have been approved as a member of the German Garrison since October 24, 2021 . I have attended several troops since my approval and I just have to say: I love being a stormtrooper! I always wanted to be one of these cool white guys and last year that dream came true. At the moment I'm trying to 3D print a DLT-19 by myself and I've found some really helpful topics here. I also created and 3D printed my own imperial handcuff holder and a plate with my TK ID for my Stanley box. Maybe I can write a little topic about this stuff later for those of you who are interested in such things. Trying my best to be a helpful member of the FISD Regards Birgit (TK 71384)
    4 points
  19. Definitely! Adam put a lot of thought into this build and it shows. The only downside to becoming a Centurion is that you tend to notice every little nuance of other trooper's armor.
    4 points
  20. I removed some of the paint from the frown. Please let me know if I need to do more. Thank you for your time. Chris
    3 points
  21. 3 points
  22. After an 8 year retirement I finally finished an old MTK kit I had. I submitted photos the other night and was approved. This kit is a stand in kit most likely though. I found it difficult to assemble because there really are not obvious trim lines and some of the pieces like the legs I trimmed years ago. In that time I have improved my making skills. I had a challenge ahead of me by having to work with bad cuts I did 8 years ago. The arms were easier because I had never trimmed them. The left leg I had trimmed way too much off. Massive credit to Trooperbay for working me up a set of replacement lower legs. I only used the left one and there is only a slight color difference. The helmet I am very happy with. I like my armor not looking super pristine and I can say "mission accomplished" lol. The funny part of my submission is I am wearing the same lower undersuit I did when trooping back in 2013. I have replacements on their way. I am really excited to be back in the 501st. I should have never left and I cannot wait to get out their trooping again. I also already built two versions of Kylo Ren and have a Snowy on order. After that is done I will reevaluate doing another TK and am currently exploring doing a FO.
    3 points
  23. I've had some extra time on my hands, so I decided to build this to round out my OT trilogy E-11 collection. Since finding an MGC blaster** is like locating the Holy grail, I found the closest 3D print I could. I'm not going to list the designer of the file as unfortunately there are many things that are not as accurate as I would like since it's the "Battlefront" version. I'm sure it would be fine for approval at all levels when built as-is, but as usual I have to push the envelope. Will it be 100% accurate? Not really, but since it will be used for display only I am hoping to get as close as I can. I have my work cut out for me, but I am looking forward to the challenge! Any comments/suggestions are welcome. ** This version is based on the Sterling Mark V Canadian C1 type as opposed to the British L2A3, so there are quite a few differences. Know in advance that this will be crazy pic-heavy, and since I have to alter so many parts I will do them in separate posts and add after completion I will add links to each one at the bottom of this post. This way it will be easier to skip to the item when needed. So, on with the show: Supplies: 1. JB PlasticWeld- (A must have. Can be drilled/sanded/painted). 2. Bondo Glazing & Spot putty- Awesome stuff. 3. Rustoleum Primer/Filler (sandable) 4. Rotary tool (Dremel type) 5. Sanding drums 6. Needle files 7. Sandpaper (80 to 400 grit) 8. Scrap ABS pieces 1 2 3 4 5 6 Here is the kit in it's raw form printed in PETG. I missed a few of the small items, but the majority can be seen. Two BIG shout-outs to: Caleb @ticopowell for not only printing this kit for me, but helping me with the designs. Germain @The5thHorseman for the precise greeblie file. You guys are AWESOME!
    3 points
  24. Face it, brother... you have the eye for detail now and there's no getting around it.. (we should start a 12 step program for those of us who are bitten by this bug)!
    3 points
  25. Done for now, now I need to cut the excess. Attached the two boxes on the left shin. Glazed and final sanded after this photo (thought I took photo) Cutting out the ab boxes Fit and finish is great, still need to sand flush but so far so good Now I need to glue (using the same as @ukswrath from his FOTK build), smells but a quick setup - 45 minutes for maximum adhesion. The AB has a curvature, if I just put a reinforcing strip behind it I am concerned that this will be pulled towards the body. If I need to keep the curvature, I will need to hot water shape the strip.
    3 points
  26. Front/Top greeb This was another part where I was not too happy with the design as it came (2). It did have the round bit on the right side with the 5 holes, but it was a bit too short, had the small bar in the center and lacked the small arc on the bottom of the front, so I ended up making one from scratch (3). Side note: This is the first SW weapon I have ever seen where they used phillips-head screws (1). 1 2 3
    3 points
  27. Miss you guys.. things have been tough for me lately.. I was diagnosed in Jan 2020 with Young Onset Parkinson's so I have a new challenge in my life. I hope to get out trooping once Covid is more manageable, but things have been tough in Canada lately. Keep well all!!
    3 points
  28. Update: I had to de-solder the wire connections for the scope display, main display, and laser in order to feed the wires through their respective holes. My soldering skills aren't the best, but I managed. Once done, all the components were re-attached and tested. I then found out my speaker wasn't working. A quick check revealed that the wire connection had snapped....yet again... for like the tenth time.... I have mentioned it before that the BlastFX kits are amazing, but I have had a bugger of a time with wire connections snapping from simply manipulating components around the blaster. This is understandable as the wires are very tiny due to the components used, but none-the less very frustrating. When it comes time to install everything and glue the bits-and-bobs on, I will probably use E6000 instead of superglue. That way I can probably pry off stuff to get to wires if needed. In this picture you can see the red/black wire extensions with connectors that I made that go the muzzle lighting effects. This was so I could take the blaster apart into two main parts: Barrel and Receiver, for transport. I really want this to fit in my TK transport case lid so I don't have to lug around a big rifle case and get stared at suspiciously... I'll have to see if this is still feasible as the barrel is very hard to slide into the receiver, and as this is simply printed plastic I don't want things cracking over time. You can also see the battery (yellow) and at the far left, the white rectangle is the bottom ejection port cover plate and will hold the on/off switch plus the 3 mode fire selector button. (Single shot, rapid shot, stun). I will still be using the kit supplied rotary fire switch that is part of the pistol grip and replicates the MG34 selector. However, if this craps out, I have an alternate mode. Everything is now fed through the holes, and I am GENTLY starting to re-assemble the blaster. In earlier posts, you see how I cut out the barrel near the receiver in order for more light from the LED string to show through. After looking online I saw a video made by 3D Props (maker of my DLT) showing the lights more toward the muzzle. It looks great! Also, the spacing of the T-Tracks at the muzzle gives more hole openings. I'm not sure how he is accomplishing this with the metal support "barrel" than runs through the barrel jacket. There is no room between the barrel and barrel jacket for the LED strip. Hmmm.....? I was considering moving mine towards the muzzle, but I would have to extend the wires, an possibly drill barrel holes again, which is a pain. I'll just have the lights at the receiver and worry about it at another time. I've also painted the new printed components, and have to wire in the On/off slider switch for the power.
    3 points
  29. I figured it out!! Below are images from my start of painting my bucket. I'm using masking tape for straighter lines on the vents, as you can see. I plan on using a second coat then letting it dry completely. I had the idea of scoring the paint along tape prior to pulling it off so it will be less likely to pull some of the paint. Hopefully this coming weekend but we'll see what life has to say about that.
    3 points
  30. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the replies. Very helpful and much appreciated! Damien
    3 points
  31. Very good progress, Adam. Glad to see it worked and you are happy with the result. Sorry for being late with that tip, but spade drill bits are ideal for hollowing resin scopes because these create 'flakes' instead of fine dust and do the job pretty fast. Maybe it still helps future builders... Can't wait for your next update.
    3 points
  32. First snaps finally getting glued in place! e6000 in place and let the clamps at it. (They were hungry) am I doing this right?
    3 points
  33. Hi everyone,Just wanted to wish you all a Happy New Year and introduce myself as a new member! I say new, but I originally joined about 20 years ago, when I first decided to follow my dream of being a trooper.I attended an event as an observer, and did buy a suit, but sadly had to sell it shortly after, to pay for other things. I never gave up on the idea though, and actually kept the fabric neck seal I bought then all this time, hoping I would get there some day! Think I still have the voice board I bought in the loft somewhere too!So anyway, watching the Mandalorian has reignited my desire, and after after a couple of pretty difficult years on the work front (I'm a Paramedic) & life generally, I've decided it's time to give it a other go. So here I am! Hoping to speak to, and maybe meet some of you in the near future! And thanks in advance for any advice along the way.Damien
    3 points
  34. I managed to not take a pic of my new Sterling folding stock from Joseph. I'm trying to decide if I'm brave enough to integrate this into the Questdesign. I did manage to get a bit of work done. I started with the spring. I printed the excellent spring forming tool from this thread... It worked a treat after I read the part mentioning that the tool needed to be glued to the PVC pipe. It doesn't work too great without being glued on there. But man did it produce a nice spring. Just perfect. Unfortunately it didn't fit the Quest blaster. The tube walls are apparently super super thick. So I shrunk the spring down to the 1/2" pipe size annnd... still too big. WTF blaster? Then I finally got out the calipers and measured the tube. I wandered all over the garage and house looking for a decent pipe or handle that would go in the E11 and found a random bamboo butterfly net from last summer. It fit just right. I shrunk the spring down to fit the bamboo but had just terrible spacing on the coils, so I smashed it down to full compression and then manually opened each coil up to a mostly-even spacing. Once inside the barrel I rotated things to show 11 exposed coils. It scratched the heck out of the inside, so I carefully repainted with a small brush... and got paint on the spring. It has since been fixed. No visible paint is currently on that spring. Then I got brave and whipped out the dremel. Off came the blobs on the front barrel and in went Tino's correct socket head capscrews. I'll fill any imperfections with green stuff. But holy crap is this a lot better by itself. And the Quest Design resin cuts easily. I decided I was bold enough to hack out this incorrectly pointing screw... and then I discovered it was aluminum under the paint. Some careful work with a screwdriver has it pointing the right way.
    3 points
  35. I just received a message from Denix, with an image showing possible items to be made by them in the future. And there is ... a Sterling (and a few other interesting things ;)). It is a C1 Sterling though, so I wrote them a long message explaining the differences between Mk4 L2A3 and C1, both from military point of view, as well as Star Wars point of view, and I attached a few representative images for them to understand better. And in the end I told them they should make both the Mk and C1, because Star Wars fans as well as military and gun replica collectors and enthusiasts will buy both versions.
    3 points
  36. Finally done with all the rough trimming and man my arm is sore. That was a lot of plastic to trim. I went from a big box of plastic to a big box of plastic and lots of scraps. Things are roughly trimmed to make sure I didn't cut too much since I'm really new on how all this is going together. I do have to say that the ABS Walt uses seem to be springier and more flexible than my MTK ANH kit, which seems like a good thing, but did require more effort in trimming. First part of assembly will probably be shoulder bells since that seems the easiest thing to do. And I'll probably start printing a Heavy F-11D.
    3 points
  37. Location: Seattle WA Event: Ryther Marathon of Hope Date: 10-16-2021 Garrison: Titan Was a charity for mental health in children, which during COVID is very important. The event was at Greenlake Seattle which is right by my house, so that was nice! We basically collected around the finish line of the marathon and cheered the runners as they finished. Since the Community Center was closed to the public due to the virus, had to suit up in the field, which was a bit harder since there were no chairs or tables we could use to put stuff on. Overall was a lot of fun, but sure wish this pandemic thing would get itself over soon!
    3 points
  38. Quest Design makes IMO the best pre-built blaster out there. Lots of great details, but Tino's kit will bring it t the next level! By the way, I purchased a lot of Tino's stock and will be offering up the finishing kits at some point in the near future. I think one of the reasons they probably don't like to sell their product unassembled is that someone could re-cast the various parts. A few things I would suggest: 1. Make sure the Hengstler counter is in the "ideal" position. 2. It's not a big deal by any means, but the Philips head screws could be replaced with V-head screws and then the tops filled in as there were no screws on the trigger mount area. Side note: Philips head screws weren't used on TK blasters until ROTJ. 3. Assuming you will be making your own "fuses" for the center with Tino's kit, be extra careful when removing (grinding out) the ones that are cast into the present one, as well as the screws on the front of the power cylinders. My set up using Tino's kit Looking forward to seeing your progress, so take your time, ask lots of questions and I'm sure it will turn out spectacular!
    3 points
  39. Thanks guys, I took a few days to think about the mechanical changes I made with my shoulder re-strapping - had a watershed moment this afternoon and realised my current problem was due to the way I redid my new shoulder straps which induced an unexpected lateral shift - quick amendment today rectified my problem. Will pop my solution into this post and link to my my build thread in next couple of days. Thanks for your input - all this info goes towards making a build easier for future troopers
    3 points
  40. [26] The music and John Williams and Hans Zimmer, The Barbican, London, UK 27th Dec 2021 The Raymond Gubbay events are a regular fixture for UKG. A traditional orchestra performs pieces from well known movies (including SW of course). They take place all over the UK through the year, and they are always very popular with costumers and public alike. The London show was at the Barbican, an iconic music venue (the interior is extremely reminiscent of A Clockwork Orange; well, I think so anyway). Although we arrived before the public started to arrive, a change of plans meant that we weren't to appear until the first encore (SW:ANH main theme), so were twiddling our thumbs for 3.5 hours! Not wasted time though, as we were given pizza, had chance to catch up, and I had a great long chat about 501st with the Barbican house manager (arrest photo below). When we finally went out we (Lord Vader, 5 TKs and a Sandie) were greeted with a roar of appreciation, which sent a shiver down my spine. We ended the night with photos with the public after the event. A really great night.
    3 points
  41. If it was me I'd do all new photos kitted up, it will complete your application rather than using some with the logo still on. Also note any comments already made as well as check for gaps and position, this image your drop box is on an angle. You find at times the photographer doesn't know what to look out for, having a mirror handy can help you spot any potential issues You also have a bigger gap at the bottom of your ab/kidney sides, if you could even those out would look better. Appears the top of the kidney is overlapping the ab in this image. Action photo pose is entirely up to the individual, you could look through the EI gallery to see what others have done
    3 points
  42. Apologies in advance - Imgur seems to have uploaded almost every image either upside down or to the side.
    3 points
  43. Plastic weld works really well in bonding coverstrips on armor, pretty much all my suits are built that way and years in are solid as a rock
    3 points
  44. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.. Stay safe, stay healthy, stay well... A big hug to all of you.
    3 points
  45. 60. HPE Hollywood Christmas Parade - Hollywood, CA - Sun. 11/28/21 (ID #22) Not me, but can I mention how cool my wife and her clan looked!? She's the front right, and that's also a costume I built for her. 61. HPE Anaheim Ducks Star Wars Night - Anaheim, CA - Fri. 12/17/21 (ID #23) Again, not me if you couldn't tell, but our Leia for the night (and my friend Jasmine), was phenomenal and the Ducks team photographer got this amazing shot! Best of the night. 62. Rivero Graveside Burial Honor Guard - Santa Ana, CA - Wednesday - 12/22/21 (ANH-S TK #35)
    3 points
  46. Awesome - it’s on my list of things to fix/improve but it sounds like I have got to a point where I can apply for EIB and Centurion! Thank you all for all your help and advice. I’ve been blown away by how amazing this community is. Will take photos and submit my EIB application shortly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    3 points
×
×
  • Create New...