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Suspend

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About Suspend

  • Rank
    Captain
  • Birthday October 11

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Just Outside Vancouver, BC, Canada
  • Interests
    Movies, XBox, Computers and my 6 year old.

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  • Name
    Mark
  • 501st Unit
    None

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  1. So I did a bit of an experiment today. I needed to paint the hammer gun metal so that it could mount inside the frame when the frame is glued together. Again, it's easier to paint it before assembly. I decided to also paint the muzzle to see how the metallic paint turns out. The muzzle prints in two parts, front and rear. I did them in two parts because the front part is black (gun metal) and the rear part is more of a chrome. By printing them in two parts I don't have to mask them off for painting. Here are the muzzle parts... I got the parts primed and painted with Alclad Gunmetal lacquer paint. Then I painted the muzzle rear a gloss black and airbrushed light dustings of Alclad Chrome over top of the gloss black. I'm pretty happy with the result. The metallic chrome was actually more reflectivebefore I hit it with a clear coat. The clear coat dulled the reflections a bit but it still has a metallic look to it. Mark
  2. The slightly difficult thing about this blaster is that the trigger is brass. This really complicates things with painting because it's difficult to paint the trigger brass once the blaster has been assembled. Here's the trigger. It has an opening in the front to mount a spring for the working trigger. It's probably easiest to paint the trigger before assembling the frame. And if I'm going to paint the trigger brass now, I might as well do the few other pieces that are brass as well. I started off by spraying a primer onto the parts. I also test fitted the trigger spring and once I attached it, I couldn't get it off anymore. :-) So I might as well just cover it with some masking tape and move on. I'm partial to Tamiya lacquer paints because they apply thinly, don't obscure detail and dry quickly. Although they are a little expensive. For these parts I used Tamiya Surface Primer and once dry, followed up with a Tamiya Gloss Black. The parts that are brass are the trigger, cleaning rod, cleaning rod holder, safety switch and this little block on the ejector port. Actually, the little block on the ejector port flip-flops between silver and brass on the show. The safety switch changes orientation too, but at least stays the same color. :-) The other paint I'm partial to is the Alcad line of metallic paints. Their chrome is amazing but like most of their paints, needs to be applied with an air brush. For the brass color I used Alclad Pale Gold. I think they used to have an Antique Brass paint but I haven't been able to find it anywhere locally or online so I'm thinking it might be discontinued. Anyway, the pale gold looks good and again these lacquer paints dry almost instantly. Much of the trigger will be hidden inside the frame. One thing I started doing with smaller parts was to place a "ring" of masking tape around my finger, sticky side out. Then I can attach small parts to my finger for painting and slide the tape off and stick it to a table to dry. And here are the parts. I think I'll still apply a clear coat to these once they are completely dry. And yes, the cleaning rod looks bent. It's pretty flexible but once attached to the blaster it will be held straight. Mark
  3. Thanks, guys!! I'm going to start by gluing the frame parts together. Due to the size of my resin printer I had to print the frame in 4 pieces. So there's a left side A & B and a right side A & B. The seam on the right side will be hidden by a "plate" that the blaster has. The blaster was based on a very old Bergmann pistol from the late 1800's. In the actual "real world" weapon, this plate swings away and you would insert the ammo clip there. In this blaster it perfectly hides the seam on the right side. The left side is a different story, the seam goes right down the side of the blaster, so that will have to be hidden. I use regular CA glue to glue the parts together. Here are the left halves... And then the left and right parts glued together. It's hard to see the seam due to the semi-transparent resin, but that will change pretty quick.. Some of the glue came out of the crack on the top piece but I was able to sand it away leaving just a small seam visible between the parts. I use Rust-oleum Filler Primer on most of my 3D printed parts. You spray it on, give it 1/2 hour or an hour to dry, then sand with 400 grit and repeat. The tiny sanded particles fall into any cracks and begin to fill them. After 3 or 4 passes of spraying and sanding, it filled in the small gap between the parts. Then I went up to 600 grit. I think that's it for today. Mark
  4. Hey everyone, a couple of years ago I was on these forums doing an E11 Blaster and an ANH Stormtrooper build. Now I'm back doing The Mandalorian's Blaster. I decided to post here first because of the incredible group of people here helping others. I haven't found anything like the help I received here on any other forums. You guys and gals are great and really make people feel like they belong. Ok, so I can't get over how much things have changed in the past two years. We used to order a resin kit and then spend countless hours modifying it to make it screen accurate. Now, you can design the parts yourself and 3D print them at home in resin at the cost of only a few hundred dollars for a resin printer. Enter the blaster from The Mandalorian. I printed a couple of different 3D versions that I found online (both paid and free) before deciding that they weren't screen accurate enough for me so I designed my own. Using any photos I could come across I recreated the blaster in about 2 months using Fusion 360. It's gone thru countless revisions but I think it's getting pretty close now. If anyone is interested in the files, I have a shop setup on ETSY under the name OuterRimWorkshop. This is a rendering from Fusion 360: I designed the parts to make it easy to paint and assemble the individual components. I also wanted a working trigger, so I built that in as well. I won't get into the intricacies of 3D printing. Like anything, there's a lot of trial and error. The technology isn't perfect and resin printing, while it looks good, is still very prone to warping. I generally print using inexpensive resin but for this model I purchased some more expensive resin called Blu by Siraya Tech which is supposed to be stronger and more accurate in terms of dimensional accuracy. The only odd thing is that the resin comes as a sort of transparent blue/green color which makes it a little difficult to see fine details until it's painted. The printer I have is an Elegoo Mars which is a very inexpensive resin printer. The downside being that the build plate can only print 4.7 inches by 2.6 inches by 6 inches. I think it took me about a week to print all the individual parts. Here's a photo of all the parts... The grips were printed in wood PLA plastic on an FDM (non-resin) printer. I've heard you can stain 3D printed wood just like normal wood. I guess I'll find out. The Mars printer is capable of printing pixels at about 47 microns in X/Y which allows for some fairly nice detail. Here are close-ups of the hammer and a switch that's on the side of the blaster: I can't wait to get started on assembly and painting. I'll post updates when I am able but life seems to find a way of delaying any projects I want to work on. :-) Mark
  5. Definitely look up an Elegoo Mars. It's a resin 3D printer. It's around $360 Canadian or closer to $230 US. Can print close to 0.02mm pixel size. Almost no layer lines, and any that are there easily sand off. I just finished a blaster from the Mandalorian show and you can't tell it's 3D printed. Only down side is that the resin is messy and the build volume is fairly small. It uses a cell phone LCD panel as a shutter with a UV light underneath. Fairly simple. So the build volume is something like 4.5"x2.5"x6". But man, if I had this while I was building my blaster, you could just fabricate the parts in a cad program and print them out. Your custom clip, the bolt, the sight.....everything that wasn't exactly right on the Doopy's kit could be printed. And then, if you design an impressive part, people sell the digital files on ETSY. Or if you aren't good with CAD, you just find free STL files or buy them online. It's a game changer, for sure. Mark
  6. Congratulations, Jesse!!! The blaster looks fantastic!!! I hadn't "checked in" for a while either (life, I know, it's interruptive..) and I was surprised to see a conclusion to the saga of Dracotroopers blaster. I picked up an Elegoo Mars resin 3D printer and it's amazing. If I had that while I was still working on my blaster it would be a whole different build. No more fabricating parts.....just print them out of resin in perfect quality. :-) Anyway, congrats again!!! Looking forward to your (eventual) trooper build!! Mark
  7. I had the exact same issue. There seem to be two pages floating around with paint colors and they reference different colors. I had the wrong one at first too, but realized before actually starting any work.
  8. Hi, just out of interest, where on the chest was the tear? Was it also an AP kit? Thanks...
  9. Hey, I think there's a bit of confusion here. I think Wook meant that Mark at AP may sell larger shoulder bells. I'm just using the regular AP bells. Pandatrooper had a nice shot showing different bells. Apparently the AM bells are quite a bit larger. Maybe something to consider if nothing else works out? Mark (Suspend)
  10. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.... You're getting close.....keep chugging.....
  11. Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. After I glued on my cover strips and let things set for several days, I did a hot water bath of the forearms to round out the opening at the elbow. This really helped to relax the tightness on my forearm muscle and made it fit my arm shape much better. Mark
  12. Hey all, I just realized that I jumped ahead a bit. I was so excited to post a pic of the armor that I forgot to finish my posts on the helmet. The green lens material that comes with the AP kit is a little "thin" in my opinion. Apparently it's accurate to the movie but I preferred something a little darker so I picked up the darker lens from TrooperBay. I tried fitting the material in as a single strip, but I couldn't get the material to sit flush against the eye sockets, so I option to install the eyes individually. First this was to head to Home Depot and pick up some Tee-Nuts. Leaving the base as (roughly) a circle was going to make them too large so I cut two sides off the base using my dremel. This allowed me to position the T Nuts around the eye socket. I then cut away the plastidip around the eye and used Sugru to surround the bases and attach them to the helmet. Sugru is kinda hard to find in Canada. I finally found some at "Home Hardware" but they only had the mixed box of colors. So I ended up with black, grey and white. Oh well, I'll paint over them. :-) Give the sugru lots of time to dry. I think they said it dries at a depth of 2mm per day. While waiting I did a "rubbing" of the eye sockets and then hand drew a cleaner version with a buffer around each lens to attach each to the T nuts. And cut out the lens material... I resprayed the plastidip around the eyes then I marked the hole locations on the lens material, drilled the mounting holes and screwed down each lens. I picked up some tactical helmet pads from Amazon. It took some experimenting to decide the best locations for the padding. I wanted it to grab onto my head so the helmet wouldn't flop around. It works pretty well, although I think I'd still like a bit more on the sides of my head. Next I started work on the fans and microphone. I picked up an Aker MR1505. I found you can remove the metal head band and just keep the mic and boom. It velcro's nicely to the side of the helmet. Then I picked up an Anker "big lipstick" style USB battery and I got a fan kit from Ukswrath. I got the fan bracket as well but ended up only using pieces of it. The bracket that the fans attach to is really cool. It fits perfectly in the helmet and looks awesome, but the only place I could find to fit my big usb battery was a the back of the helmet. With the battery there, I couldn't make use of the fan bracket. So I took the bracket apart and used velcro to attach the fans inside the helmet. I took the power switches off the bracket and attached them to the lower ear screws. One on each side. So if I'm trooping, I can individually turn the fans on an off while in costume. It works really well but that USB battery might just be a hair too big. I can BARELY squeeze my head in. Once I'm in, it's fine. Mark
  13. Hey Arlo, I would suggest very carefully checking to see you've wired the mic jack properly, both to the audio board and the jack itself. I had tons of trouble with no audio from my mic. I was using a mono audio jack on the TKTalkie. I'm still not sure if it was the way I wired it up but when I switched to a stereo mic jack, suddenly I had audio from my mic. I can only assume that perhaps I wired it to wrong channel and by switching to a stereo audio jack I had both the left and right wired to the TKTalkie so it started working. Not sure about your "weird sound" issue, but I'd concentrate on problem #1 and see if problem #2 goes away once your mic is working. Mark
  14. Hi Nick, I was just wondering what (if anything) you ended up doing with the top of your right thigh? I've got the same "mismatched height" at the top of the right thigh either side of the cover strip. Did you try to round off the height difference or just leave it as it is? Thanks, Mark
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