bishopdonmiguel

POST 90 All events are 70th Explorers Garrison, Firehawk Squad 2019-10-04 Forest View Carnival, Photo by Lianne Marie 1. 2019-10- 27 Shoal Creek Trunk-Or-Treat, Photo by Shelly Boone 2. 2019-12-14 Shadow Buddies Flight, Photo by Chuck Mason 3. 2019-12-21 Candy Coated Christmas, Photo by Chuck Mason 4. 2020-02-23 KC Comets Mascot Game, Photographer Unknown 5. 2021-05-01 Elite Comics Presents Heroes Return, Photo by Kyle Ray 6.

Thermal Detonator: Speaking of the TD, I failed to provide details on how I created the hangers. As previously noted, I plan to make some changes to improve the fit and prevent movement but needed to see how everything fits before making final adjustments. The hangers are ABS strips, bent with a heat gun.

Unfortunately, I had issues with the TD as well. Essentially had to rebuild it using the original parts as the base. Hopefully 850 updates that part for future builders.

My first trial fitting. I don't have a photographer so please excuse poor photos. QUESTION: Any feedback on this fit? What did I do wrong?

Torso with strapping, Posterior, Codpiece and Thermal Detonator attached. I will probably add additional support for the TD but need to finish trimming it to fit.

Codpiece: For those with an OTTK, you know the discomfort having a "fixed" Codpiece. So I opted for a "floating" Codpiece here. First, I created a support system at the base of the Torso using nylon webbing. Snap on the back will connect to the Codpiece and allow it to float. Will probably add a few snaps to the front later to help keep the belt in place.

Posterior: I will be attaching the Posterior with snaps and nylon webbing. I prepped the straps with Line 24 snaps leaving some extra material. I then temporarily attached the Posterior with blue tape for positioning. Once I was happy with the look, I attached the straps with CA. I will probably trim the tabs a bit to prevent any binding.

Torso Strapping: There are many solutions to fit the armor. Based on my experience with my OTTK, I am comfortable with using nylon webbing and elastic. I'm adding a few quick disconnects at the shoulders for adjusting the hang height. Not really sure what the optimal fit is so those should be helpful. At the risk of sounding like an idiot, which is a frequent offense of mine, is there are reason why all the kits have a split back? This kit is designed with side seams and a solid back. I had originally planned to cut a seam as I have seen on many other kits. But that would introduce a point of weakness. I can "step into" the torso and simply pull it up, eliminating the need for a seam. I will need a handler to help snap on the thighs and shins... but I'd probably need one anyway for the back/chest. QUESTION: Am I overlooking something obvious? Torso straps attached with CA. Will criss-cross the back straps.

Belt Boxes: Finished up the last of the boxes. The cast-in Chicago Screws should allow for a good connection to the belt. Will probably use a piece of 1/8" ABS as a mounting point for some elastic cord that will connect to the belt. I've heard from JAFO that these get banged around a bit and he recommended a similar solution. I'm really impressed with these models from Empire3D. If you are looking to replace the boxes in your kit with ones that are more accurate, you will not be disappointed. Highly recommended.

I don’t like PLA. I make props so I have the supplies available to make castings in the material of my preference. Like I said, I left the watermarks in so it would be impossible for me to get away with anything shady. I’m being open and honest and my build illustrates that. I do agree that some, perhaps even many, people are unethical. That is a shame but if you knew me personally you would know I would never sell anything based on someone else’s work without permission and without compensation. My reputation is worth more than the few bucks I could make selling these. So rest assured, you’ll not see these on anyone else’s kit. Since you bring it up, should anyone ever express any interest, YOU would have the final say in that. Period. And you would get set the amount of compensation you wanted for each sale. But that assumes there would be interest and frankly, I assume I am the only one who prefers the heavier resin over PLA.

I purchased the files. I left the watermark in the print to ensure people knew where I obtained the models. I haven’t offered to sell my castings to anyone. Not sure I understand your concern.

Belt Boxes: Finished the mold for the pouch cover and cast with resin. After painting to match the armor, will use velcro to attach to the pouch I acquired from Trooperbay.

Belt Boxes: After letting the resin cure, I test fit the front boxes. I think these should work nicely. Here are a few pics to illustrate the components...

Small update for today. Belt Boxes: Got the molds for the front boxes finished and cast the parts. Reasonably happy with these. I cast Chicago screws into the white pieces so they there will be a strong mechanical connection through the black spacers and into the belt.

Trying to make some progress on my kit. Belt Boxes: As previously noted, the boxes that ship with the kit are mostly incorrect. The large pouch and front boxes are passable but the other 2 smaller ones are simply unacceptable. I printed these black boxes from files obtained from 3D Empire. As I do not like PLA as a prop material, I will be molding and casting these masters using a semi-rigid resin. Possibly heavier but will be much more durable. During prep, I added some hardware that will make attaching to the belt easier I think.

The whole COVID mess has induced some build depression. Like, all dressed up but nowhere to troop. I do need to get back to work on this, if for no other reason than to get the parts off the guest room bed.

Congratulations and thank you for volunteering to serve.

I recommend Imperial Boots. I have the OTTK and FOTK versions and they are excellent. https://www.imperialboots.com/product/trooper/

Nice work!

Forearm Rail: As previously noted, I wasn't happy with the included resin rail. Modeled a replacement and 3D printed. I don't feel PLA is a resilient material for trooping so I molded this and will be casting using semi-rigid resin. I included the original kit rail for comparison.

In addition to subtle weathering, something you might consider is applying various shades and sheens of paint. This can make the prop look more realistic when the individual components work together. Using real fasteners can also add realism to the prop. For my resin build I used a variety of techniques and paints.

Thank you for the feedback, I was thinking same. Will address this once I get the chest/yoke assembled for comparison against reference.

Shoulder Bell Modification: As previously noted, the Shoulder Bells in this kit have the lower bells molded in. After removing the faux lower bells, I cut 1.5mm ABS as replacements using the basic shape I’ve seen in other build threads. Using a heat gun, I bent these to roughly match the Shoulder Bells and then affixed with CA glue. Unsure if I should trim further or lease as-is.

Similar to the forearms, I'd like to have sharper edges on the Torso boxes. I previously asked about accurate size but after some consideration, I decided I'd just build to whatever size was required to cover the existing bumps. I don't want to compromise the strength of the Torso by removing the existing bumps. Torso boxes: Using ABS sheet, I constructed shells that would sit over the existing bumps. These seem to have a flat area that intersect the angled one on the bottom edge. From reference pictures, seems two boxes have recessed details so I tried to replicate those as best I could. I affixed with CA glue but these do not fit perfectly over the bumps. Have some concern that they will break off without a good bond so I drilled holes in the back and filled with more CA glue and accelerant. Some filler eliminates the gaps against the Torso. The size and spacing isn't 100% accurate as I decided to use the existing bumps as mounting points. But I think the look is much improved.

Finally recovering from the Holidays and getting back to this build. Hoping to receive my gaskets this month so I can start fitting parts. In the meantime, I continue with some visual modifications. Unsure of “accurate” measurements here but as I have to fit to the existing armor, I employed some artistic liberties. Forearms Modification: The forearm box edges are quite soft. This is typical with vacuforming so not a complaint against the kit, but I’d like sharper edges. Also, the recess seems too small. I built (2) boxes from ABS sheet. To create the recess, I cut out a square hole in the top layer and backed with another sheet. I also created a smaller recess on the front side. The scribe lines were also quite soft vs. the reference pics so I cut these out using a vinyl stencil. These will get backed by ABS sheet after I get the new rail molded and cast. Question: The thin scribes are white but some reference pics show the thick scribe black while on one arm while the other is white. Is that accurate or a variance from normal?