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  2. Good luck in your adventure! I ordered My shirt and knee seals from Darkside closet. Still haven't received them but looks like good work. I will let you know. Cheers
  3. Hi, new member here:) I've been dreaming of having a stormtrooper armour and joining the 501. for years now, and at age 20 I feel like my body is finally done growing, thus it makes sense to start working on that armor. I've read through a lot of the pages on this forum during the last couple of days, so that I am at least somewhat informed about what I'm going for. That being an ANH stunt, clearly the most classical choice. I'll defininitely be looking towards centurion in the long run, but for this year I'll be perfectly happy with achieving Level 1 in late summer/fall. Now I've been looking at the various armours from your most helpful "vetted makers" list. I think for me it's going to be though decision between ATA and (if I'm really willing to afford it) TM, or maybe RWA as compromise if he can beat the price of TM. I'd like my armour to be really smooth and glossy, without any bumps or warts. Are there any differences regarding this aspect, between those 3 makers?
  4. Today
  5. Welcome to the FISD, Jakob! Glad to hear that you have started your research, and know that we are here to help every step of the way, sir. Aiming for Centurion is actually easier (and better) to do right from the start, as you may have to make modifications down the road. When you eventually receive your kit, I highly suggest starting a build thread where you can ask all the questions you want to as well as add photos of your progress and any issues. Another suggestion while you wait is to copy your present post into the "New Member Introductions" thread located here. With it posted in this thread you may not get many responses, so moving it there will definitely help. Best of luck on your white armor journey, and keep us in the loop!
  6. Get a decommissioned sterling is expensive and extremely difficult, so i ask, is it better to buy the S&T sterling or the S&T E-11. Better in the sense of money and screen accuracy Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk
  7. Hi, new member here:) I've been dreaming of having a stormtrooper armour and joining the 501. for years now, and at age 20 I feel like my body is finally done growing, thus it makes sense to start working on that armor. I've read through a lot of the pages on this forum during the last couple of days, so that I am at least somewhat informed about what I'm going for. That being an ANH stunt, clearly the most classical choice. I'll defininitely be looking towards centurion in the long run, but for this year I'll be perfectly happy with achieving Level 1 in late summer/fall. Now I've been looking at the various armours from your most helpful "vetted makers" list. I think for me it's going to be though decision between ATA and (if I'm really willing to afford it) TM, or maybe RWA as compromise if he can beat the price of TM. I'd like my armour to be really smooth and glossy, without any bumps or warts. Are there any differences regarding this aspect, between those 3 makers?
  8. Hi Nancy, with this build yeah only one thigh needed to be adjusted and I will get you a pic of the inside to show how we did this build so it left us with no real issues and didn’t cause a problem with approval but funny enough I have just helped another legacy join the 501st who had this issue on the thighs and calves/shins, let me dig out those pics as well and I will pull together a storyboard to explain what we did to make them sit and fit really nice and also how to eliminate one of the lines, especially if it needs to be on the outside as well. The pics below are just a quick reference Martyn
  9. Hello Andy and welcome to the FISD. Keep safe Trooper Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  10. Hello and welcome aboard. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  11. Hi Gaines! Thanks for your application and the quick fix with your frown paint. I'll be doing your review. Before we can proceed, you will need to make one other very small change. The L2 CRL states: Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. Everything on yours looks great except you are missing the white paint on the rims of your hovi tips. Should really just be a couple minutes to fix. Reference Image: As a couple of other folks have mentioned you are also missing a few required pics for your EIB application: * Closeup of the left side of your sniper knee (like the closeup you've already included of the right side) * Inside of the thigh ammo pack rivet (to verify rivet type) * Closeup of TD screws (to verify color + type of screw) * Rear of blaster (to verify presence of D-ring) * Action shot Could you also include a couple closer photos of your gloves? I can't really tell what they're made of. The L2 CRL states that Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. I'm particularly interested in this seam (or what appears to be a seam): I've also attached a photo checklist to be sure that you (or I) haven't forgotten anything else. EIB_Centurion Photo Checklist.pdf Thanks a lot!
  12. Hello Martyn, Thank you for your tutorial. I have a question regarding the photo (above) of the thigh armor. Upon closer inspection, it looks as though one of them incorporates the extra plastic that is typically trimmed away for the overlap of the butt joint. I need to apply this method on both thighs since they are too snug on me. Would it still be approvable? Did you have any problems with it. It will leave two lines on my inner thighs, instead of the single butt joint line. Please advise. Thank you!
  13. Hi William! Sorry for the delay. @ABS80 (Mark) does have a point in that we're basing the L3 requirements on a small set of data, which in this case is mostly the photos that came out of the Shepperton Studios/LFL lawsuit, because those were some of the clearest images we had ever seen of a screen used ANH suit. The language in the CRL is a little ambiguous, but the idea is that the button paint should really stop short of the edges of the ABS button, as you can see in the following photos (all of the same suit): I think it is certainly a possibility that this particular suit was actually an outlier, but as it is, it represents the clearest images we have access to. That said, the CRL is always in flux, and as we learn more about the armor (which is incredible given they're 40+ years old now) you'll see requirements come and go. I did go back and look at the last several EIB approvals for AP suits and we have consistently requested the button paint change, so if we're wrong, we're at least consistently wrong. In the end L2 and L3 approvals are always optional and should never be source of stress, just a nice way to try to get a consistently high quality look across all armor types in the 501st. Hope this helps, Sha Sha
  14. Found my biggest pot and hot water bathed the top part of my chest; slightly flattening it out (to help better align with back plate shoulder tabs) Added a snap strapping system to help get these pieces to stay together when I put it on either myself or my mannequin so I can properly align my shoulder bridges when these snaps dry. (just using masking tape was such a hassle......) Finally, finally, finally, I made a chicago screw/militput housing for my right lens that is actually holding together. Now I can mimic what I did to the other side. I don't know why this thing kicked my butt. I know it was partially not having the bases at a proper height and not letting the e600 enough time to cure. I don't know. I haven't seen a thread where someone struggled as much as I did with lenses. *It is not very pretty, but it works and I can easily take my lens of for cleaning or replacement.
  15. Yesterday
  16. Nice work. You may want to tighten the strapping on the sides, appears your kidney plate is sticking outwards on the front view as well as there is a gap on the side view. Remove the paint on the ab side snap Also try to bring your biceps down a little more, would reduce the gap at your elbows. Appears one of your shoulder straps is sitting behind the back plate in the rear image. Calf rear cover strips should stop below the top ridge. Drop boxes do not appear aligned with the end of the plastic belt section I would advise you look through some other applications as you appear to be needing a few other images Could you also post a close up of your detonator front and clips as it appears to be quite long and has a large gap between end caps. Also appears the end caps are smaller than the grey tube or hanging off? You could also add a little white around the tips of the hove's (mic tips) and also try to define the curves of the vocoder a little more
  17. Thanks, the ab buttons have been a bit of a pain but I'm tweaking those. Got the paint off of a few spots though.
  18. Looking good! I would recommend cleaning up your ab buttons. A few could use more paint to help round them out. Also your large center control panel could use a little trimming on the left side. It's overhanging a little. With the way your pictures posted its hard to see but make sure your drop boxes align with edge of plastic belt. From the picture the one that can be seen looks in to much. A dab of E6000 could hold them in place. Good Luck and look foward to you joining the ranks soon!
  19. Wow some great advise to get you started and you’ve got a good start to everything. I think this build is going to go well. Looking forward to seeing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Thanks Dan! Much appreciated. I love the painted helmets as well, but I’d love to add a hero at some point! Something about the texture and appearance of the paint seems to add ‘weight’ to the helmet visually.
  21. Morgul702, I added you. Good luck and let us know when you get approved.
  22. Hey Collin let's see if we can help you with your questions. Body suit, straps and rigging check with Teresa - Glue? E600 or CA should work just fine with 850's kit but taking a look at some build threads (mentioned below) may help you decide. Paint? How deep does your wallet go. You can go with spray can or professional. R1 experience - Visit the R1 section where you'll find build threads and more - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/162-rogue-one/ Hope this helps
  23. Totally unofficial -- but necessary -- Troop. Enforcing the Imperial Six-Foot Rule (with an Imperial 6' rule), and keeping the loyal Imperial citizens in my neighborhood safe!
  24. Cool thanks! I can get working on that hopefully today. Working on getting all the photos together and uploaded.
  25. Fingers crossed you’ll get to put it to good use sooner rather than later
  26. I had a paint match at my art supply store .... he was really good at eye balling it.... tried to color match at paint stores,,, home depot ,, SW,, lowes the machine just couldnt do it right... I need to put it in a small jar to sell some some... it does really work well...
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