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  2. Scimitar

    Scimitar's ANH Stunt Build - AP

    So drilling the holes in the magnet covers did not work. So I will be making new covers with flatter recesses, thanks to LTM for the sacrificial magnets & jig thingy! In the meantime I took some of the magnets I had been using for clamping and re-purposed them into inner strip magnets. They work perfectly for this because they are larger than the holes in the shins and their surface would be where the original magnets would have been. I also decided to redo the shoulder straps, this time completely doubling over the elastic front to back for strength and reinforced them with plastic strips in between all of the snaps like before. This let me ensure that the shoulder bells were as tight to the shoulder bridge area as possible, the first straps were still allowing too much gap for my liking. I also glued the silicone hand guards to the gloves using the Loctite Plastics Bonding System. When the activator is used properly this stuff sets up FAST! The glue itself is also very runny, so be sure to take that into account. I did it all at once while wearing the glove and had some get out from under the hand guard. No worries though, acetone will remove it from the glove with no ill effects that I could see, other than a little fading that went mostly away after I handled the gloves for a bit. If the acetone touches the hand guard it will smear white onto the glove but that wipes away with acetone too. I'd recommend gluing them on in sections, starting in the center and working to the edges. The glue sets up so quickly you could do it easily while wearing the glove and you'll likely make less of a mess. And don't worry about going overboard with the activator, it doesn't leave any residue behind. Sniper knee plate. The one part that strikes fear into the hearts of many. I started by clamping it flat against the cover strip with a stronger clamp than the normal spring clamps I've been using (thus the tape on the front of the knee plate in the pictures). The left arm (facing the knee plate) naturally fell into alignment with the shin ridge when the plate was angled, the right arm of course did not. So while clamped I figured that I needed to twist the right arm to move it down into alignment with the shin ridge. I practiced the movement it took to make the arm move down and then did that with a hot bath. The result is a knee plate that is centered and resting flat against the cover strip, a bit crooked as expected with the AP plate, and is aligned with the ridges. Then I applied a healthy amount of glue on the front and waited to glue the arms as a next step. Here you can see the arms are mostly aligned and only need a little bit of finger pressure to close them against the shins. I don't have any pictures but I glued and clamped the arms to the shins with a little glue to account for the small contact area (don't forget to sand both surfaces to help adhesion). Then I added a little more glue in layers, separated by a few hours each time, to build up the glue support between the arms and shin. This method seems to be working well so far, the arms aren't coming off even with the repeated action of putting the shin on and taking it off. Running To-Do List: Drill/install snaps in ab for belt Build Belt Glue on Shoulder Bridges Velcro Shoulder Bridge elastic in place Glue in snap plates for Shoulder Bell to Shoulder Strap connection Glue in snap plates for Shoulder Bell to Bicep connection Reposition Bicep Hooks Reshape Shins & Back Plate at Shoulders Glue in Shin Magnets and Covers (Temp. Countermeasure for Covers in place) Final thigh test fit for upper thigh trimming Glue in snap plates for Thigh Garter System Glue on Silicone Hand Plates Install Sniper Knee Plate () Submit Application/Pictures to GML Submit Member Application Hopefully be able to sign up for 9/28 troop () Make any necessary changes & submit EIB Application Make any necessary changes & submit Centurion Application  Start next build 
  3. Welcome to FISD. As Glen said, check out those sections on the forum, there are also a number of build threads for ladies you might find useful. Also check out the ”Advanced Tactics” section, you might find start aiming high (lv.2 clearance or above) actually be easier for you in the long run. Good luck and have fun here.
  4. gmrhodes13

    Greetings from Edmonton, Alberta!

    Hello and welcome aboard, research is the key to this hobby, lots to read in the Getting Started section and lots of great build threads to follow. Good luck and hope to see a build thread from you soon.
  5. Pyrates

    Greetings from Long Island New York!

    Stellar to have you with us and welcome to the FISD!
  6. Today
  7. Welcome aboard future Badlands Trooper! We can help you every step of the way - and it’s great to have you here in the detachment lines! Don’t forget to get signed up on our Garrison forum as well here: https://www.badlands.ca/forum/ucp.php?mode=register&sid=ee460c5d3720efa5deefa2dab3a4fce4
  8. Hey folks! Its been a life goal of mine to join the 501st since I was a youngling getting my photo taken with some troopers at a charity event. I’ve been lurking around on this site and doing some research on the internet for quite a while but felt like taking another step and joining this forum to really soak up some quality information before I take a big jump and start ordering and assembling myself. I’m also a tinier woman so that should most likely prove challenging when fitting pieces and such but I figure that’s what friends are for!
  9. StrmTRPR85

    Shimbo’s WTF ANH stunt WIP

    For the tube stripes ensure a pencil width from the "cheek" is where they should start.
  10. Rat

    Ravyn's ANH TK Build

    Great to see you getting started Stacey. Just a reminder though, when using e-6000 make sure to toughen up both pieces you are gluing to give it bite for a solid bond.
  11. RavynMaza

    Ravyn's ANH TK Build

    My e6000 arrived, and I opened the tube for the first time and used it to glue on the control panel to the thermal detonator. I hope this piece is done! Now it’s just a matter of letting the glue set for a day or two and then putting the detonator away while I work on other things. I also got out the Exacto knife and started trimming out parts. I decided to start with the handguards, I figured they were fairly easy to start with since I was nervous about messing up. I got them trimmed out without much going on, so hopefully I’m off to a good start – but I’m just happy about really getting started trimming parts!
  12. RavynMaza

    Ravyn's ANH TK Build

    So after almost a month of basically trying to overcome my fear of doing anything and messing up, I finally got some time (and courage) today to work on the thermal detonator. The gray tube was just as described in Ukswrath’s tutorial, just a bit oversize on the overall length. I took a file to the edges and filed it down about 3/16” until it was close to level all the way around. Then I did the very, very scary method of giving the end caps a boiling water bath and popping them on the ends of the tubes while they’re still warm. (yes, that is my husband’s “Dark Side BBQ” oven mitt, being used to handle hot parts) I was able to drill the holes pretty easily, install the metal clips, and paint the heads of the screws black per Centurion guidelines. The only thing I didn’t do was glue on the control panel; my e6000 hadn’t arrived yet (I had to mail order it off of Amazon, since my local Lowe’s was out of stock). I did tape the control panel in place so I could line up the clips. I think so far it looks pretty good!
  13. gmrhodes13

    Lorelei's 5'4" ATA ANH-S Centurion-Hopeful Build

    Just remember Luke and Han's suits are deemed HERO versions so some characteristics on those may not fit a STUNT version
  14. Yesterday
  15. gmrhodes13

    TKC Request for CRL Updates Thread

    Thanks for the feedback guys, we agree on most of the changes so I don't think a vote would be needed on every one of them, but please let me know if you disagree or I have missed anything? Those that have a question mark over them are those which could be modified making the TKC a little closer to what we see on OTTK's and not necessarily to the designers impression so not 100% game accurate. I will show alternate wording in purple if you could please give your preference to either green or purple on each of those. They are as follows: Abdomen Armor: GREEN or PURPLE Kidney Posterior Armor: GREEN or PURPLE Belt: GREEN or PURPLE Thigh Armor: GREEN or PURPLE Holster: GREEN or PURPLE Suggested changes are in green. Alternative changes are in purple Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar. Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Blue stripe detail shall be present on the right side of the helmet, starting from the back of the helmet, and continued on to the bottom of the face (stripe tapers to a point as it goes down the face). Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Helmet and details/paint is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes). Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Blue stripe continues over brow trim Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. REMOVE OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%. Shoulder straps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible). REMOVE Upper Arm Armor Biceps are fully closed. Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both biceps (one to the front and one on the side). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No shoulder bell straps across the biceps. Biceps/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Forearm Armor Forearms are fully closed. Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both Forearms (one to the front and one on the side). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Forearms/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Forearms use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE Hand Plates ANH or ESB/ROTJ Either ANH or ESB/ROTJ can be used, hand plates are mounted securely of the back of the glove, As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand plates are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): If using ANH-style hand guards, they shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves. Back Armor Back plate contains a "O II" design. A blue detail shall be present in the form of a Y-Shape. The blue Y-Shaped detail will have slanted white stripes, one on each side of the flared upper parts of the Y-shape. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The Back plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. AM back plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version. Abdomen Armor Ab plate buttons shall be all black. Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB. A blue stripe shall be present on the ab section and stops underneath the belt area. The blue stripe is wide at the bottom and narrows toward the top, to match up to the blue Y-Shaped detail of the chest plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ab plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain either four or five buttons (if the fifth button is present it must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate) . All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons. There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. OR There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. REMOVE Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain either four or five buttons (if the fifth button is present it must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate) . All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons. There can be either 2 or 3 rivets on either side of the ab, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 15-25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 15-25mm above the top of the belt and 10-20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney & Posterior Armor A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The edges of the hip area are rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB posterior armor). Kidney/Posterior Armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. REMOVE There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, the top rivet is roughly 25mmfrom the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. OR Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate. REMOVE There can be either 2 or 3 rivets on either side of the ab, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 15-25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 15-25mm above the top of the belt and 10-20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners) There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are either grey or white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. OR Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are either grey or white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. Belt can be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Leather and vinyl are not accurate. There can be either two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt OR a rivet on either end, painted white. The center square button is not accurate. Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The belt can either be left straight (if using rivets) or can be trimmed at a 45 degree angle (if using square buttons). Drop boxes are closed in the back. The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white. Thermal Detonator ROTJ Or Game (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator control panel has correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version. The ANH/ESB style is not allowed. Thigh Armor Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh, The outside half of the right thigh shall be blue with two white semi-horizontal stripes near the top. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable. REMOVE The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. REMOVE Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references. The thigh ammo belt is NOT rounded off like ANH. The thigh ammo is glued and has NO rivets. OR The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable. REMOVE The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. REMOVE Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE The thigh ammo belt can be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references or attached to the thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.. The thigh ammo belt can either be straight or rounded off like ANH. Lower Leg Armor Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net Only the outside half of the right greave shall be blue. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Greaves/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Lower Legs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate. REMOVE Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. Both boots shall have two blue stripes painted, curving across the top of the foot. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Boots are lightly scuffed. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The two stripes curving over the boots are accurate in proportion to official references. OPTIONAL: Holster Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material Holster is worn on the left of the belt Holster is affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners). OR Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material Holster is worn on the left of the belt Holster can either be affixed by two black loops over the belt or attached via straps behind the belt using fasteners already present Of course at the end of the day it's Paul who would ultimately have the last say on all of the above .
  16. Bulldog44

    M38 Hollow Core Scope Project 2016 - Bulldog44

    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2214560615494348&type=1&l=7882c00bd3 Some useful info for the scopes and assembling the kit with the supplied lenses.
  17. Your worrying about nothing, there’s no issue with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Yes, as Tino mentioned there were modified scopes it seems with added lens attachments, some modified internally to make them into microscopes. But the smaller end lens housing (cylindrical part sticking out) was never removed, just those attachments added using the threading on the inside. I know the feeling to want to add realism as much as possible but I would keep the scope end original and try to add just the lens. You can can give it a try though if you want to and order another resin scope from doopy if you decide to go the other way. That’s what I did. I ordered a second scope just in case I destroyed mine during the hollowing process.
  19. Requesting access! https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=27697
  20. you might want to trim down those ears, way too thick!
  21. Sly11

    TK 72715 Checking In

    Congratulations Matt!!
  22. Thumpy~

    TK 72715 Checking In

    Congrats Matt!
  23. Rat

    aghoneim's ANOVOS TK - 1st build

    Slightly below, but the best way to tell is if you try them on with your undersuit and boots on. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
  24. TheLorelei

    Lorelei's 5'4" ATA ANH-S Centurion-Hopeful Build

    Haha, join the club. Gotcha. Riiight, GML. Lemme shoot it over to mine. Thanks!
  25. Hahahaha! Yeah I keep strange hours. Yeah the hard edges can be softened with some fine grit sandpaper, but I don't think it matters for the button plates. The only thing that I can say here is that you don't want too much extra on them. It really comes down to your GML and the DO team there. Like I said though it seems good to go. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
  26. aghoneim

    aghoneim's ANOVOS TK - 1st build

    Just to go back to the topic of shins ... (it's been a busy day!) 1. How do you size them? Are they supposed to go up to the knees or slightly below it? 2. I'm still not 100% confident I have the shin pieces identified as L/R because of the whole labeling confusion. Any tips for checking? (Only thing I could follow was Tony's image that they be longer on the inner ankle and higher on the outer ankle for both sides... Also Rat mentioned to have the sharper dip on the inside of the ankle.)
  27. Hey Dave welcome and congrats on finally starting. The re-shaping might be better with the heat gun at that thickness, but the hot water bath is less risky and you can subtly shape it. So far as the trim lines go don't eyeball, measure them. A lot of the kits don't have premade trim lines. So be sure to look at the CRL and other builds of your kit that will help you.
  28. TheLorelei

    Lorelei's 5'4" ATA ANH-S Centurion-Hopeful Build

    Man, I'm beginning to not know what to do without your quick replies, Rat! Cool. Rounding corners is easy enough. Seems to me the old suits had real sharp edges though. I mean, look at Luke's suit here. http://s1082.photobucket.com/user/fisd1/media/ANH/bluray/2 cropped/abdetail.jpg.html And his button plate is cut pretty much to the raised part! Argh.
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