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  1. Past hour
  2. Assembled some belt greeblies. Instead of printing out the entire "belt box" files for the narrow center ab boxes, I cut them so I could make them a little more accurate. Basically, I just printed out the covers and painted them white. Next, I used some pieces of dense EVA foam in 1" thickness to make the bases of the belt boxes. I used a belt sander to smooth out the edges and create a curve that matches the curve of the ab. Then I poked two Chigago screw stems through the foam (this was really easy). I slathered on a bunch of E6000 on the posts to keep them secured in place. Then I applied E6000 to the back of the belt box covers to make 'em stay put. I let the glue cure overnight, and in the morning, I had this: I will probably round off the corners of the black parts once the glue is fully cured in a few days. Next, I tried to wrap my mind around how to attach the thermal detonator plate to the back. The piece has a little bit of a lip on the top, but it's not enough to secure the thermal detonator to the back of the ab at all. I didn't want to do just velcro for this connection. For me, I really wanted something like a hook, so the top of the thermal detonator would have most of the weight hanging securely from the top back of the ab. Enter aluminum! In the same way that we score and snap ABS sheets, I decided to score and snap some 1" strips of aluminum. I snapped it by putting the sheet into a vice grip and bending slowly at the score line. Once I had my 1" pieces, I made folded-over bends to accommodate the top of the back of the ab. They kind of remind me of bicep hooks. I dry fit them into place to make sure they fit. Everything looked good. I applied a generous amount of E6000 to the backs of the clips and stuck them onto the thermal detonator plate. Everything got clamped down with tape, magnets, and a clamp for good measure. I consider this "Phase One" of securing the thermal detonator. The next phase will involve a small amount of velcro and some EVA foam to keep the bottom half secured snug against the ab. Stay tuned!
  3. Today
  4. I filled and painted the stock hinge bolts, added counter numbers with clear cover and filled the scope lettering with white crayon. Please let me know what you trooper think. I have also posted a constructed before and after paint pics. Cheers, Martyn (Mar2D2) [emoji1591][emoji41][emoji1591] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  5. Following advice from Triumphmark over on the UKG, I decided to go with: Handle: black gloss. 'T' tracks: black gloss. Everything else: Flat Matt black. And Silver for the trigger housing, various screws and weathering. I wanted my blaster to look used (Loyaly served the Empire for many years). For the scope, I went against drilling out the sight, as I have been only using items I could find at home. I used CD disc foil on gaffer tape, with red film and clear plastic to try and create a better that silver foil ended scope. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  6. With all pieces constructed, filled, glued and primed. It was time to paint. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  7. Looking at other blaster images, I decided to make, from scrap armour plastic, the magazine clip. Not sure about actual sizes, but I think it will look ok once painted. I also added a push button from a done nut, a small copper tube, a spring and a screw. The button works, but my skills in being tidy need some work ("off" letters could be neater)! And I made the perspex piece for the back of the counter. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  8. I then decided to work on the power cylinder to try and achieve a more movie accurate appearance. I dremmiled out the moulded cylinders and fashions my own from odd pieces of coloured plastic with green stuff on the end, holding in the wires. I added the side wings from scrap PVC. Created the rear wires from boot laces. I know they are not red, but I thought that this wouldn't matter as I was going to paint them black. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  9. Keep it going, Steve! Almost there! I'm excited for you!
  10. Using more greenstuff, I increased the size of the inner notches on the back cap as well as tighten the gap when the end cap is fitted to the main body of the blaster. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  11. I found the Doopydoos resin kit to have rather a lot of small air bubble holes in it, so I filled as many as I could using green stuff. I added more real screws and created the counters plug pieces from scrap armour cuttings. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  12. For this first stage of trimming and return edges, You may want to check this Post , I think it can be useful .
  13. Made a scope rail and bracket from a piece of strip aluminium and added some more real screws. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  14. I added small glasses screws to the scope to give that little more of an authentic look. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  15. Thank you, both. So, this is the first thing I’ve done. I have a lot of trimming to do - does everyone question themselves as much as me when they start? Ha ha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. I added grub screws to the magazine housing and attached to the blaster. Then a magnet to the inside of the magazine to make it removable. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  17. Very discrete, nice / clean installation Mar2D2 Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
  18. Absolutely incredible work here. Much patience and figuring out to get functional. I [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
  19. I attached the handle to the main body of the blaster using screws hidden inside the handle. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  20. I made my own trigger guard from aluminium as the doopydoos supplied one seemed rather small. I also used a small spring behind the trigger to allow it to move. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  21. I sanded and attached using gorilla super glue, the casing and flash guards to the body of the blaster. I made a "D" ring from some wire and cut out the back to accomodatectge ring and holding piece, flush and glued on the rear sight. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  22. Next I cut out the holding stock and drilled out the holes, I removed the in station fixings from the hinge part of the stock and found that if I use 2 bolts and the thread from kitchen cabinet connectors, this worked really well as a moving part to attach the stock to the gun. I used a small metal pipe from an old lamp (with an opening in the side cut out), a spring from a cheap garden ornament, an Ikea flat pack screw (cut down with hole drilled for attaching another smaller screw. All made it so the smaller screw fits in the barrel inset on the front underside of the gun so it can be pushed back to release the stock from the body of the blaster. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  23. After lots of sanding, I inserted the barrel, spring and made a cocking handle from a small piece of wood that I attached the handle to using a small screw. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  24. This is where it all began. Once I received my Doopydoos resin kit, I watched a lot of E-11 build threads and gathered as much info about the movie used blasters as well as obtaining a copy of the Stirling SMG users manual. I started by drilling out the filled hole on the underside of the barrel. I also made a spring from a wire coat hanger and the barrel inset from some black metal tubing I had on my garage. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  25. Hey troopers, I have recently finished my E-11 build and wanted to share it with the TK world to see what you all think. I took a lot of ideas and inspiration for my build from other troopers build threads on here so I'm am hoping to do the same in return for future TK's. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  26. Hi Gaz, welcome to FISD. Great to know you're starting your project !! Feel free to post photos and ask questions. I highly recommend for your project to read carefully the CRL of the TK you're going to build, and as many reference Photos as you can. Looking forward for your advances. Cheers
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