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New content/photos added (***EXAMPLE 2).

Or maybe just maybe, they did it just to get the OCD pinging on all the 501st members. I wouldn’t put anything past Disney or Jon Favs wicked sense of humour lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Received my orders to report to Japanese Garrison for the glory of the Empire. First troop will be Tokyo Comic-Con starting November 22nd.

Or just have some reference pictures of the original costumes on hand, so they can make sure they are suiting the actors up correctly!

As I said on Pathfinders, LFL need to employ some 501st costume advisors on the payroll to check costumes before filming

WARNING: The following content may be controversial! DISCLAIMER: These are my opinions from years of experience, pure and simple. Over the years I have noticed many future Troopers doing an OT (Original Trilogy) TK ask about return edges before, during (and after) their build... If this is a subject that you are curious about, grab a cup of coffee or a tall glass of frosty blue milk (this is a long post, lol) and read on.... QUESTION: "What are they, what do they do, and should I leave them, trim them down some or remove them"? ANSWER: Return edges are part of the molding process and provide strength in certain areas on the edges of your armor. They also provide a heftier look to some pieces. To help you decide whether or not to keep them is why I started this thread. Here I will attempt to go into a few details about them. Know in advance that as mentioned I personally am NOT a fan of them in many areas for several reasons (listed below). Some people love them and some may disagree with my opinions... many of you may trooped for years with no problems which is AWESOME, but many folks have had issues and questions. 1. In most areas they are not screen accurate- In looking at the screen caps and film used armor photos below you will notice their scarcity. 2. They can (and in many cases will) get very uncomfortable- Many folks like the "thicker" look it gives their armor, but they can cut into you, especially in the area where your arm bends ("armor bite") and the groin area (chafing). As Troopers we do a lot of walking and arm bending carrying a weapon, so keep this in mind. 3. If aiming for higher levels they can cause fitting issues- Examples: A. If you leave them on your forearm openings and glue on the cover strips, they will need to be completely removed at the wrists for Centurion level, making the opening too wide. This can lead to you having to remove the cover strips, reduce the sides of the forearms and re-attach the strips. Quite a pain in the posterior plate to say the least. *** See EXAMPLE 1 below. B. If they are overly thick on the bottoms of your shoulder bells, they can prevent them from lying snug against the biceps. 4. They can cause splits/cracks- Especially on some armor areas. ABS is designed to flex, and in some cases a small amount of return edge is fine, but too much can cause stress on those areas. *** See EXAMPLE 2 below Over time that stress will take it's toll somewhere, and that is usually the return edge. Anovos armor is especially prone to this on the sides of the chest/back plates and neck openings. I suggest shimming these on the rear with ABS strips and E-6000 to prevent it. Let's start with the chest plate: Note how the ones below (including the back plate) have either no or minimal edges with no cracks or splits. Now here is a screen used one with a pretty prominent edge, Notice the stress crack. Now, onto the ab/kidney/back plate: To keep them in line and prevent them from overlapping, it is suggested that you LEAVE a fair amount of the edges on the top/bottoms of the kidney and bottom of the back plate, especially if using the "classic" strapping method. Yes, these can split/crack as well but not normally. Shoulder Bells Trimming off the entire edge on the bottoms is not only screen accurate (first two photos), it allows them to rest close to the bicep (bottom photo). Third photo shows "suggested" trim lines (red) of an untrimmed bicep. My recommendation is the blue line. Biceps/forearms For sheer comfort and a sleeker look, I recommend removing ALL of the top and bottom edges before fitting/gluing them. First, no one sees the tops (covered by the shoulder bell) and the bottoms can cut into your arms (armor bite). Suggested cut lines in red. Again, if you do get armor bite you will have to take them both completely apart, remove the edge and re-fit. Better to think ahead. Some (myself included) like to leave a bit of the return edge on the outside of the top of the forearm for a thicker look. However, I highly suggest removing all from the inside part (the "scoop") where your arm bends. Again, an armor bite issue. This should also be done BEFORE final fitting. Here are some screen used examples: For level 3 (Centurion) all of the return edge on the wrist opening must be removed, including the area inside the "hump" as seen below: Posterior (butt) plate: Again, it is suggested that you leave some of the return edge on the top (and bottom in most cases) to keep it from riding under/over the kidney. Now, the BOTTOM of the posterior plate is where we often find splitting issues. Should you leave some return edge? Sure! BUT(T), when trimming the corners, (see below) be SURE not to give it a sharp angle... this is where the trouble usually starts. Instead, give it a slightly rounded angle (as shown in green). Thigh tops The tops of the thighs are where we see a lot of questions. I recommend removing all the return edges from the entire upper parts, and here is why: As mentioned above, you will be doing a lot of walking. If you have the edges (or at least a large portion of them) intact, the friction and inside facing angles can really chafe the heck out of you, especially on the inside of the groin area. (Ouch). If there are sharp edges/points on the tops (below) these will poke into you. When trimming these, just follow the existing line. Also, if you do your final fitting, glue everything together and find this out afterward, you will have to take the entire thing apart, remove the return edges, trim down the sides and then re-build/glue them back together. The reason is that afterward the opening will be entirely too large and you will have a giant gap all the way around. Not a good look. Easier to do it beforehand, trust me. As seen below, there were no return edges (or at least minimal ones) used in the films. Sniper knee plate The bottom of this piece is an area often not trimmed enough. To allow it to sit flat (or very close to flat) against the top of the calf enough for the glue to adhere properly I suggest removing most if not all of the bottom edge. Note how in the first and third photos how the sniper knee is parallel to the front of the calf. Last up, a photo that best illustrates my point about return edges and how they were not really present in many places on ANH armor. *** Example 1. of what happens when you have to reduce the return edge(s) after attaching cover strips. NOTE: For the example below I am using an ATA bicep (first 3 photos). Be aware that ATA makes the "suggested" cut line on their return edges pretty slim (a GREAT thing in my opinion). As seen on the armor in the 4th photo, if followed, the "suggested" cut line makes the return edges much wider (red line). Top view Bottom view For the purposes of this tutorial, we will assume that the ATA has those wider suggested return edges. Okay, let's say you really like the thicker look the return edges give your armor, so you left them pretty wide during fitting and then glued on the cover strips. Enough to get your arm through with a little extra room. Should be good to go, correct? BUT, you find that after having your arm bent for a while they cut into you (armor bite), so you find you have to reduce or remove most or all of it. No biggie, right? Just break out the Lexan scissors or Dremel and cut away, leaving the cover strips attached. Easy! So you remove it and then you run into the fact that the opening is now enormous. This is not a good look, and can result in the piece(s) jangling around and not being approvable at higher levels (or even Basic depending on your GML). What I am getting at with the above info. is that if you decide to remove them, it's better to do it before final fitting/gluing. Side note: Many biceps have an unusual shape at the tops (in red, below) normally located on the inside. This can be completely removed. Doing this will not affect approval at any level, and is screen accurate. It sits under the shoulder bell so no one sees it anyway! Screen used bicep USELESS TRIVIA: Many have asked about the "thumbprint" that many armorers have on the left bicep (screen used example below). Some think it is so you can tell them apart, but I was speaking with Brian Muir a few years ago (he sculpted the original armor used in ANH) and asked him about it: "To be honest, I have no idea... it was not in my original sculpt, and must have been a mistake in casting". There you have it. *** EXAMPLE 2: What causes cracks/splits: ABS bends pretty well, just as it's designed to. BUT, when there are return edges involved that changes the game. For the below example I used a 2 inch wide strip of ABS with a 1/2 inch "return edge". Looks pretty solid, right? That's because the edge provides stability. Now I am bending it up/in to simulate use over time. (More than it normally gets bent in many cases, but only to prove a point). That stress has got to go somewhere, and it's the return edge that takes it all and gives way, again causing cracks/splits. The red arrow shows a weak area where the stress in concentrated and cracks can form. Even if trimmed off afterward that area will be prone to splitting, so a small shim behind it is suggested. To sum it up, return edges are not meant to bend a lot. I suggest inspecting your armor occasionally to spot any existing/potential cracks/splits so that you can catch them before they get worse. I hope this helps answer any basic questions you may have, and always feel free to ask more detailed ones here or offer differing opinions.

So (after what seems like ages), you finally received your official 501st I.D. number and signed up for your first Troop. Now what? Depending on the event, there may be a few differences in protocol. For instance, a "Canon" event (usually one authorized by LFL or Disney) may be more serious in nature and regimented, while other times we are there to make the occasion a lot more fun, (parades, movie premiers, etc.). Here are a few basics to think about in regards of what (and what not) to do on your inaugural appearance with your local Garrison. Of course, all events are different.. some will be indoors, some will be outdoors, or a combination of the two.. some will have just a few members, others may have over a hundred, but the basics stay the same. This list is by no means meant to be complete, so all Troopers are welcome to add their own ideas, tips and fun things to do! 1. Before you leave- If you have not had the chance to wear your armor for any length of time, put it on (including your bucket) and wear it while walking around the house and maybe in your yard for a while. This will give you an idea of your range of vision, movement limitations, and let you know what you are in for. Walking up and down stairs will help. 2. Be prepared- Double (and triple) check your armor to make sure you have all your accessories and all your connections are secure before leaving your house. I would suggest carrying a small repair kit in your bin as well. I have a thread here which will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48390-emergency-trooping-kit/?tab=comments#comment-674403 2. BE ON TIME- I cannot stress this enough. When you sign up for a troop, they will have an arrival time, (usually an hour or so before), and a "step off" time when you should be completely suited up and ready. The hour gives you the chance to get your armor on, and make any adjustments. There should be "handlers", but any fellow Trooper will be glad to help you out. The POC (point of contact) person for the troop or event coordinator will give you any details you might need beforehand, (directions, special notes). Feel free to ask them any specific questions. If you have any concerns, let your handler or the person in charge know about these. They are there to help. 3. Be aware of you surroundings- Due to the limited visibility in a bucket, watch out for curbs, steps, obstacles, etc. Small children will often run up to you and stand close, so be aware that they may be right below you and cannot be seen. When raising or lowering your weapon, take it slowly as not to clock anyone in the head. 4. Photos- You will be asked (sometimes hundreds of times) "Can I take a picture with you"? Be patient, and get used to it! But be aware of where your arms are to avoid touching anyone inappropriately by accident. Often, people will ask "Can I hold your gun"? That is entirely up to you. A lot of us have spent a great deal of time building our weapons, and they (especially the resin cast) can be damaged if dropped. Many of us carry Hyperfirms for this reason. If you don't want to let someone hold it, you can say something to the effect of "The Emperor forbids it" or "It's against Imperial regulations". Side note: Never, EVER point your blaster at a child for any reason. This is just in really bad taste. UPDATE: In this day and age it's not a good idea to point your blaster at ANYONE. This includes those trooping with you (even Rebel types) and anyone taking the photo. 5. Hydration- Another item that is VERY important, especially in warmer areas and extended troops. FISD legend Steve (gazmosis) wrote a great post on this subject, and it is used here (with permission): "Big troops, big crowds, lots of kids, lots of chances to show off your hard work. With the hot weather, there are also lots of chances to be become quickly dehydrated and sick. Don't let this happen!! There is no greater cooling system than hydration. But drinking a ton of water is not the solution....it's how and when you drink it that is. Let's be clear here!!! We are talking about WATER! Not soda, not energy drinks, not juice. WATER...H2O. Leave the Gatorade in the cooler for after the troop. Proper hydration should begin a full day prior to a hot troop. Steady intake of water (8-16 oz. an hour) is fine. Too much water at one time can actually be harmful but a slow and steady intake will allow the body to properly absorb and distribute it until you are hydrated down to a CELLULAR level. Yes, you will be in the bathroom a lot. But when the pee is clear...you are there! Continue this until just before bedtime. On the day of your troop, avoid coffee and other caffeinated drinks that can dehydrate you. Your bathroom trips will have evened out overnight. Have one more bottle or serving of water before suiting up. Once in your suit, you will sweat. No matter what fans you have in your lid....you will sweat. THIS is your cooling system. If you are properly hydrated, you will have the fluids so that your body will adjust to the rise in temperature and cool itself properly. If not, your body will use the water in it twice as fast and without the proper reserves, you will risk not only dehydration but elevated internal temps, dizziness, and possible heat stroke. The long and short of it is be safe and smart. We need out troopers vertical!!!!!" On that subject, if you do feel dizzy or need a break, tell your handler immediately. It's nothing to be ashamed of... safety first! 6. Changing areas- Most events will have a secure and private changing area, but some may not, so ask ahead of time. If it happens to be an outside area, you can wear your under suit to the event underneath your clothes. 7. Armor bin storage- Again, most troops will have a secure area designated to store your armor bin, away from the public. If this is the case, you are fine. Some have asked "Do I need to keep it locked during the troop"? That's up to you. We tend to be a very honest bunch, treat each other's belongings like our own and keep an eye out for one another. (I have never felt the need to lock mine). If it is a parking lot suit up and your bin will be visible to the public while you are away from your vehicle, that's a different story. 8. Conduct- Have a blast on your troop, but keep it civil. Some Troopers clown around a bit occasionally (myself included) depending on the circumstances, but remember, you are a representative of the 501st Legion, the FISD and your Garrison/Squad, so act accordingly. When in doubt, ask someone who has done that event before. Side note: If you happen to be a smoker or vaper, please do not do it in public view while in armor. 9. Handlers- Handlers are an absolutely integral part of a troop, and make our lives much easier. They take photos for the public, warn us of obstacles, escort us to the restrooms/break areas, pick up fallen armor pieces, protect us from kids smacking us with toy lightsabers, guard our stuff, bring us water, keep us informed, and a myriad of other things. After your troop, be sure to thank them for all they do to make an event possible and allow those in costume to have a better time. 10. Trooping in other Garrisons/Squads- Once you have your official TK #, you are welcome to troop with any 501st unit in the world. You may need to sign up at that Garrison, as many do not list their upcoming events for the general public to see. Once you have access to their site, you will need to sign up for the particular troop that you want. Most importantly of all....... HAVE FUN!!!!! UPDATE! The thread below was posted by Caleb (Thrawndike bar), and contains some awesome responses/TK chatter while in public. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47603-howto-talk-like-a-stormtrooper/

The new teaser trailer for the Mandalorian released recently and confirmed that there was scout troopers in it! Upon closer inspection of the trailer, I noticed that the scout troopers were having a bit of a malfunction... You can't see the rest of the costume, but the upside down knee pads are pretty noticeable. The costume that I'm assuming was from the Mandalorian was displayed at SDCC. You can see the upside down knee pads in the first picture, as well a few other "malfunctions". The knee pads were fixed in the second picture, but there is still that wonky cummerband and belt. We can't see the scout's torso in the trailer, but hopefully it isn't like it was at SDCC...

Legion web team have been notified and are working on the issues

Probably some rebels at work throwing hydrowrenches into the system...

Baby steps are looking good My elastic straps are simply tied in a loop, and are free to slide front to back. They aren't attached to the armor in any way. I did this so that when I was dressing, I could slide the elastic strap towards my back, push down on the shoulder strip, then slide the elastic over the shoulder and settle it into one of the grooves. I was afraid that if the elastic was attached I would have to bend the shoulder bit underneath and risk the chance of the strap snapping.

Thanks everyone for the helpful feedback! It's a bit overdue, but I'm pleased to announce I am APPROVED! Again, this community has made the build process enjoyable, and I'm proud to start trooping with the most active and supportive Detachment around. I'm definitely not settled or done with this armor - already putting some of the fitment changes in place, and prepping to break down the helmet for the L2/L3 applications. That said, I'll be keeping all of that work on my original build thread, so stay tuned- Looking forward to seeing you there soon.

Also remember that they are doing this with a much smaller budget than a feature film and using new techniques in filming and editing so that they can immediately see the shots. Because of this the filming is at a much faster pace and less time for the continuity checkers to do their work. Just be glad that John and Dave are giving us back some of the most iconic OT characters that we have all been asking for. How cool is it that they actually used a scout regardless if he has a knee plate wrong?

Congratulations! Welcome to the Legion.

that's why I've opted to use EVA Foam. It'll arrive early next week and will likely drive me up the wall a few times while I get it cut to shape. My next mission is to attach the raised details to the thighs and shins. Specifically the holster plate and the strange credit card swiping details. My plan is to use some loctite to attach some white plastic screwed to them and then drill holes in the armor. Add a washer/nut to the back and loctite those in place.

Jamie Kingston TK 14627 Centurion A4 Joseph http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/14627-centurion.png

Oh wow! Thanks everyone, I’m absolutely thrilled! completely humbled by the support, advice and guidance along the way. this is an amazing community to be part of. thank you!!

Congratulations, Robert! It's awesome to have you in the ranks. Happy trooping!

Hi again, Jamie, and thank you for your application for Centurion! As I said before, I really appreciate you taking the time to get on those issues so fast! Now let's get to the good part! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of the DO team and myself, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. You have done a brilliant job on this build, brother, and we only have a few suggestions that we feel would really make this awesome set of armor look it's best! As was suggested before, taking a Sharpie or a paint pen to those stripes would make them a bit more uniform in appearance. Reference images Your canvas belt could use a haircut, lol. Having the odd stray thread is no big deal, but 30 seconds with a pair of scissors would tidy up those edges nicely and make it look a lot better!! Reference image Lastly, we are recommending that you reduce the gap between the tops of your thighs and cod area by slightly rotating them in. Although there were certainly disparities in this area seen in the film, for the majority the gaps are smaller. This would also allow your front cover strips to line up a tad better. Reference images I realize in doing this that the backs may ride up too high, but you can safely cut those down. Doing that would definitely make them more comfortable when walking, and as seen below also screen accurate. Reference images Now it's time to get out there and make both the UKG and the Lord Vader proud as it's newest Centurion level TK! Side note: Now that you are representing the Empire in an elite status, Jamie, I genuinely hope you will continue to spend time here on the FISD to share your build expertise and help those on their own white armor journey! "Troopers helping Troopers" (and future Troopers)!!

Welcome to the Legion, Robert. Here are a few tips for your first troop. Have fun.

Congratulations once again trooper, well done

Congratulations TK-77712! An honor to have you with us among the ranks. Looking forward to trooping with you very soon! Best of luck and happiness in the Legion!

Congratulations Trooper and welcome to the Legion Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I have an E11 and a DLT-19 from Praetorian as well. I love them! This is my DLT-19 from them that I troop with most often with my HWT: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats Trooper and Welcome to the Ranks

Bravissimo Jose, excelent work

Congratualtions Trooper !! You did it great!! Welcome to Centurion . Felicitaciones Trooper!! gran trabajo, Bienvenido a Centurion !!

José Luís DelgadoTK-16790CenturionA4Sha Sha http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/16790-centurion.png

Ángel Ferreras Rábano TK-29413 Centurion A4 TheSwede (Daniel) http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/29413-centurion.png

Joshua Shelley TK 42250 Letter Mike Souza Thank You for your time and effort! My pleasure, Josh, and congrats! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/42250-centurion.png

Matthew Larsen TK-12929 Centurion Letter Sha Sha http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/12929-centurion.png

Rodrigo Cid TK 14292 Centurión A4 Msouza Thanks you! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/14292-centurion.png

Trooped the Mothman Festival this weekend and got my strapping to sit better and more secure. Was able to get a few 3 hour long stints in armor even with the heat in the upper 80s. Mobility in the R1 kit is so much better. Just a few comfort tweaks to do, and some more troops to fine tune it. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

Fabio Delfino TK 8084 Centurion A4 Sha Sha http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/8084-centurion.png Thank you in advance!

Jesús Pérez Pindado TK-25280 Centurion A4 Sha Sha http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/25280-centurion.png

Jennifer Catania TK-50721 Centurion letter Daniel http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/50721-centurion.png

Simon Phipps 16566 A4 Daniel Thank you! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/16566-centurion.png

Michael culp TK1636 Centurion Letter size http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/1636-centurion.png

Ryan Foresta TK 91593 Centurion letter Daniel http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/91593-centurion.png