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simorph

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About simorph

Member Title

  • Position
    Centurion

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    simonphipps.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20190813
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Simon
  • 501st ID
    16566
  • 501st Unit
    UK Garrison

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  1. Just wanted to say a big thank you for this tutorial - it worked brilliantly for me, and I'm pleased to say I passed Centurion the other week! Pretty much followed the tutorial to the letter, although I did accidentally order magnets that were half the thickness that I needed, so ended up having to sandwich two magnets with a bit of E6000. One thing to note is to shape the bottom of the shins with boots on - I found that the extra thickness of the back of the boot does push against the bottom magnet a little so that's something I wish I'd made more effort to take into account during my build. Thanks again!
  2. Simon Phipps 16566 A4 Daniel Thank you! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/16566-centurion.png
  3. Simon Phipps TK 16566 A4 Daniel Many thanks! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/16566-eib.png
  4. Never underestimate the power of the Dremel... Return edges obliterated...
  5. Roger that! I'll give them a trim and post back. No worries about the delay - I was on vacation these past few days anyhow! Thanks!
  6. Okay, so post EIB-approval and following all the little suggestions and fixes for Centurion - there's a whole, brand new set of photos for you guys to take a look at up there! Thanks!
  7. well, I gritted my teeth last night, unscrewed everything and went for it - I took 2-3mm off both ear caps, swapped in small screws into the original top holes of the ear caps so my visor would still hold in place, trimmed back as much of the ABS under the ear region as I could without disturbing the pop rivets, re-sited, drilled and remounted the ear caps as tilted and in-line with the back of the temple/traps as it would let me without revealing the pop-rivets. Only two bits of trauma - nearly drilled through a fan wire, and a small issue where the heat from cutting off the long bolts caused a screw on the bottom of the to pull through the ABS. But that's as 'Hopey' as I think I can get.
  8. Thanks Dan! well, I gritted my teeth last night, unscrewed everything and went for it - I took 2-3mm off both ear caps, swapped in small screws into the original top holes of the ear caps so my visor would still hold in place, trimmed back as much of the ABS under the ear region as I could without disturbing the pop rivets, re-sited, drilled and remounted the ear caps as tilted and in-line with the back of the temple/traps as it would let me without revealing the pop-rivets. Only two bits of trauma - nearly drilled through a fan wire, and a small issue where the heat from cutting off the long bolts caused a screw on the bottom of the to pull through the ABS. But that's as 'Hopey' as I think I can get. (I'll take a look at those stripes and see what I can do though, thanks!)
  9. Well, I passed EIB, which is cool. And the guys gave me a stack of suggestions. So, I took a swing at them... Straightened out the brow ridge by trimming back the ABS edge behind the trim, and then applying a few spots of E6000 to stop it sliding back down Made the mods to the Thermal Det... The clips butted up to the plastic but the original bend on the clips wasn't quite round enough to hug the tube, so I removed the clips, carefully bent the tips and replaced. There's a teensy gap on one side and I'm leaving it there as I can't pry the white plate off. So more accurate, not 10000% perfect. Trimmed back the cod... Trimmed the final rectangle off the shoulder bridges, which takes nearly an inch off the bridges... Trimmed the canvas belt (again) but this time took some Resolene (the acrylic top coat I use on leather pieces) and soaked all the way around the edge of the belt. This means that none of those stray threads are going to come loose ever again (I did worry that at the rate I kept trimming it, I'd end up with nothing but a piece of string) Trimmed back the return edges on the arms...which should give me more room to move! Scuffed up the hovi tips... Tightened the strapping on the ab plate by adding an extra snap to the elastic on the right... ...and making much shorter straps on the left.... Now the natural position for the ab at rest is with the plates overlapping - so the gap should be as narrow as possible now. And then (thankfully, I kept the stencils!) I added an extra stripe - took the spacing of the bottom edge of the stripes, but tilted the stencil forwards... So hopefully more New Hope... And finally, I took out the return edge on the shoulders so that'll hopefully close up the gaps even more and give more movement... Still terrified at the prospect of tilting those ears back - the helmet's held together with pop rivets and prayer. But can't do anything to it for at least a couple of days while the new tube stripes cure...
  10. Sooo...I went through the list and made the following mods.... Straightened out the brow ridge by trimming back the ABS edge behind the trim, and then applying a few spots of E6000 to stop it sliding back down Made the mods to the Thermal Det... The clips butted up to the plastic but the original bend on the clips wasn't quite round enough to hug the tube, so I removed the clips, carefully bent the tips and replaced. There's a teensy gap on one side and I'm leaving it there as I can't pry the white plate off. So more accurate, not 10000% perfect. Trimmed back the cod... Trimmed the final rectangle off the shoulder bridges, which takes nearly an inch off the bridges... Trimmed the canvas belt (again) but this time took some Resolene (the acrylic top coat I use on leather pieces) and soaked all the way around the edge of the belt. This means that none of those stray threads are going to come loose ever again (I did worry that at the rate I kept trimming it, I'd end up with nothing but a piece of string) Trimmed back the return edges on the arms...which should give me more room to move! Scuffed up the hovi tips... Tightened the strapping on the ab plate by adding an extra snap to the elastic on the right... ...and making much shorter straps on the left.... Now the natural position for the ab at rest is with the plates overlapping - so the gap should be as narrow as possible now. And then (thankfully, I kept the stencils!) I added an extra stripe - took the spacing of the bottom edge of the stripes, but tilted the stencil forwards... So hopefully more New Hope... And finally, I took out the return edge on the shoulders so that'll hopefully close up the gaps even more and give more movement... Still terrified at the prospect of tilting those ears back - the helmet's held together with pop rivets and prayer. But can't do anything to it for at least a couple of days while the new tube stripes cure...
  11. Thanks. All fixed now, pointing in the correct direction, and even less likely to snap off!
  12. So, I used the 3D print as a guide and fashioned myself an all-aluminium one - this'll never break, and once I've painted it and secured it with epoxy, it'll never come out... I'll just make sure I put it in the right way around this time!
  13. There's a 'that's what she said' reply in there... I love my 3D printer I have some more aluminium on order, so plan is to use the 3D print as a template/guide for making a metal one. Good to know though, that if I have an emergency troop (which I won't) I can be up-and-running again in the time it takes for glue and paint to dry!
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