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Helotech

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About Helotech

Member Title

  • Position
    Centurion

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Comox, BC, Canada

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20200923
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-H

Standard Info

  • Name
    Dave
  • 501st ID
    98695
  • 501st Unit
    Outer Rim Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

910 profile views
  1. I should be installing everything. After seeing the scope display without the magnifying lens I see now that it still looks cool, and would simplify the install somewhat. I may get away with cutting a small square window for the scope display and mount it about 1/2" inside the box body. As you'll see in the pics below, you need the lens about 1/2" to 3/4 away from the display for best image. I'll have to see if this works with the display inside a rectangular cutout. I just jury rigged a power source by stealing a battery cartridge (holds 3 AAA batt's) out of a cheap flashlight. The scope display is actually 1/2" by 1/2 ", not 1/4 like I stated earlier. Main display is 1/2" by 1.5". Jury rigged power: Scope display: The wires point out the back, so they had to sit on top of the box. Now that I look at it, it's not bad without the magnifying lens. There are several different display types. This is a simple dial spinning around, with little bars on the side that jump around. This is with clear magnifying lens only. The lens is held about 1/2" in front of display. Closer to display and there is no magnification, further away it becomes distorted. If this is mounted in a scope (like an E11, which I also have a kit for...) then you would need to mount the display in the scope probably 1/2 to 3/4" away from the lens. Same, but with lens and an evil red filter! I'm sure if you want the cool red color you could find some clear red acetate sheet and cut to size? Both displays. The shot counter does not have a red filter but you can use same red acetate sheet if you wanted. It's personal choice what look you're going for: Both white, both red, or variations of red and white for an interesting contrast. There are also several different visual effects / options for the main display. I also have my TK # in the bottom right of the display window. Great! Now I'm itching to finish this beast! It's been dragging on for over 2 years.
  2. Hey Richard. Managed to get the DLT and Blast FX stuff out. I haven't worked out a power source yet, so no power on images. You can easily find these on the web, but I have a build in the DLT forum that I will be updating soon. Not sure how large your DLT side box (is it a power source for the blaster...?) so your results will vary. This is the Blast FX red filter for the scope display. The scope display is a very small digital piece, maybe 1/4 inch (ish) square? It sits under the filter so it gets a red hue, then a convex glass is placed on top to magnify. The magnifier is exact same diameter of the red filter. Mine filter is just stuck on for the pics. I don't think I would need to drill a hole this size. I would only have to cut out a square big enough to fit the digital display. Wires will feed into the hollow receiver where the power source will be. This is the main display just held in place. There is about 1/8" gap between the filter and main display. It would actually be rotated 180 degrees so the wires come from the right and feed into the blaster receiver. It almost fits the space perfectly and would only require minor surgery to the blaster. I'm not sure if I'll cut a big rectangular hole so the display sits flush inside the big box, or just glue it on the face with appropriate holes drilled in the receiver to the right for the wires. If I do the face mount I would build a small frame with plastic strips around the display so it blends in. I think this is a good option for a "DLT Integrated Aiming and Display Unit ( DIADU ) that faces the user. Still working on the name From the side. The display sits about 1/4 inch below the lower edge of the box. I'm thinking I will build a ramp or wedge shaped piece to blend the display into the bottom of the side box. Once again, a frame will be built around the display with appropriate greebly add-ons so it looks purpose built. Kinda like this. If it is painted black it will blend in really well with the side blaster box. Hope this helps with ideas.
  3. Hey. I'm going to be installing the Blast FX in my 3D-Props DLT within a few weeks. Just completed a cross country move and my hobby bench is not set up yet. The 3D-Props blaster was printed with an opening on the bottom just forward of trigger guard. This is meant to fit the rectangular "info / shot count" screen from Blast-FX. And you're right. There is no place on a "real" blaster for a scope display. I've hummed and hawed about where to put the two display screens as I don't think a "real" DLT would have it's display on the bottom of the blaster. Not convenient for the user... My possible solution: On the back of the rectangular box (left side of receiver) I am going to drill a hole to fit the scope display. The hole will be as close to the top of the box as possible. Just below this I will install the rectangular display. The rectangular display will sit slightly below the lower edge of the box, so I will have to jury-rig some kind of housing for it so it blends in. It won't be screen accurate, but it should look good and will be "functionally" correct as both displays will face the user. I'll try and post some pics within a couple days of the basic set-up. Dave
  4. Happy Friday! It's amazing. I have very organized hardware storage bins filled with every conceivable kind of screw, nut and bolt. Yet I don't have anything to fit the grips and scope rings. So, off to the Home Depot and I found some pretty cool screws. These are nylon "pan-head" screws with common (not Robertson or Phillips) heads. Exactly what I needed. They are a bit long, but that is the beauty of the nylon material. Easy to snip to size. Once snipped, I will rough the screw heads with sandpaper, then prime. After they are screwed / glued into place, a quick dab with black paint and you got Uncle Bob. I'll be gluing and clamping the grip panels down as they are very slightly bowed.
  5. Did minor weathering with graphite powder on some raised areas. Basically simulating repeated drawing from a holster and a TK's gloved hands wearing the grip and manipulating the safety. It is hard to capture the shiny bits in the pictures. I also burnished some internal grooved areas on the right hand side for more visual interest. Next is a clear coat. I may do it flat rather than satin so I can have the grip panels contrasting the main body. I also just remembered I need to find appropriate screws...
  6. Wow! Really nice Shane! Did you use same files as me? Quick update. I sprayed everything a Satin black. I am going to try minor weathering around raise areas with graphite powder. then spray with a clear coat. I will leave the grip panels unweathered of course. Another thing I noticed after looking at the real weapon and promo shot: The front "fin" on right hand side, above the magazine, is pointing upwards in some pics and downwards in others. Curioser and curioser... here you can see that the spray paint didn't fully reach inside scope. I'll touch this up, then add the clear sheet "lenses" painted red. Here you can see the faint join line of front and back barrel halves, as well as the join between front and back frame. The barrel join is barely noticeable in normal light. The frame joint will be mostly covered by the grip panels. No protruding barrel inside the front nut. Not a big deal.
  7. Thanks for all the scope ref's! Much appreciated. For some reason when I searched I found the scopes for cheap, but then shipping was relatively expensive. I'll be printing a second gun and will use an actual scope for that. Now that I look at the prop pics again, I see that the printed scope belled front and back lens areas are completely the wrong shape It's amazing. I can look at a pic 100 times, then on the 101st I see something that is very obvious. Damn. Joseph: Great to hear from you again! As to the position of the scope more forward, I can't do that while still having the scope rings bracketing the scope turrets front and back. All the prop references I've seen show the scope mounted this way. I prefer to have the rings in the middle of the scope than have the front of scope hanging way out in space over the blaster. More esthetically pleasing to me. Now that I think about it, I suppose I could have just moved the adjustment rings and their base slightly towards back of scope. Everything is super glued down, so this would be a pain to move. Like I said, next blaster.... Grey primer is on now and it's drying. I will see what I have to fill and sand then post more pics when I get home from work.
  8. I tried finding appropriate scopes online and in local sports stores, but nothing was available or right for the job. Wanna sell one of yours?
  9. Hello again! I got everything glued together except the two side grip panels. I have to look in my hardware selection for screws to attach panels to frame and scope clamp screws. The files Glen provided are AWESOME and very detailed, but I did note some discrepancies to the movie prop: When I was gluing the scope rings and scope onto the mount, I had a pain of a time trying to achieve the proper overhang at the rear of blaster, as well as how far forward the scope sits over the body. Basically, front of scope should sit roughly in line with front of magazine well. I went back to the Reference page in this forum and found the picture which stated movie prop scope is approx 11" long. my printed scope is about 10.5". I had not resized it, so the 3D file scope is slightly small. Printed scope looks thicker than the movie prop. Not a huge deal and the clamps fir properly. If you thin the scope then you would need shims inside the scope rings, or you would have to resize the rings and the scope base plate for everything to fit. The 3D file (picture below) shows that both the scope clamps sit behind the zeroing towers (little dials) and the dial base on top of scope. On movie prop the clamps sit just forward and just behind the towers. The 3D file has the adjustment towers pointing straight up and to the left. On movie prop scope is rotated to have towers pointed up and towards the right. I mounted mine the correct way. On the left side of the frame, just behind the magazine housing, is a small lever. On the real Rexim SMG this is the magazine release. Just behind the lever is a small indented circle. On some pics of actual SMG, the Star Wars blaster, and the pistol used in Aliens (yes, the same gun is used in this movie) the indent is there. In other pics it isn't. I'm not sure what the definitive answer is. The 3D print comes with a small coking handle on right hand side blaster. This is not on the movie prop so you don't have to glue the part in. 3D file, full assembly pic: If you have a large enough printer you can do this in all one go. Note the scope thickness, clamp locations and scope overhang front and rear. Movie prop: Note the thinness of scope, the appropriate overhangs front and rear, as well as the scope ring locations. My print: Once again, note all the items I've mentioned. I didn't want to reprint a new scope, but maybe on my second print (LOL) I will make sure everything is good. I went for a mid-line compromise and I think it looks the part. On this shot you can still see the slightly cracked rear cap. I'm attempting to glue this closed, but it will remain on for now. Next step is to use a basic grey rattle can primer to check for major cracks or gaps I have to fill. I'll refill, sand, prime again, then comes the decision of main body colour. Satin black as per movie prop, or the dark smoke grey of a real gun with satin black handgrips? I will also cut out some clear plastic sheet to replicate scope glass. I'll probably tint it red to add visual interest.
  10. Thanks Jonas! After a quick solo trooping patrol through my neighbourhood with die-hard SW kid who lives across the street, I will be sanding and gluing some parts while watching a SW film.
  11. Printed 3 pieces and they turned out well. Endcap, Mag housing, mag plate, and the little circle that will fit into end cap drain hole. When you add holes to pieces in Chitubox program, it asks if you want to keep the "removed" piece. These are useful to refill the hole once printed. Endcap with hole plug. As you may be able to tell, this endcap has what looks like golf dimples on the surface. I printed this straight up and down instead of angled. I'm thinking there may not have been enough supports. I may not use this as the old end plug has not cracked or warped any further. I left the barrel assembly outside in the sun all day, so hopefully its cured LOL The old cracked end plug can be repaired by me simply pushed in on the slightly raised /cracked portion and flowing in some superglue. New magazine housing and plate. The mag well is much beefier with 5mm walls and much larger rinse / drain holes. Bottom hole of mag well. It will be covered by bottom plate. You can see the beefed up thickness inside. So, still some sanding and washing to do before attaching to the barrel assembly. I haven't reprinted the very front portion of the frame assembly. I MAY be able to clamp everything together and glue along the split seams. If this doesn't work I will saw the frame in front of the trigger guard and reprint. Oh fun....
  12. Resin's not too hard to work with, just a learning curve. It is also surprisingly cheap. I may actually get a second larger printer to do this kind of stuff so I don't have to split large pieces. I'm finding the software and general info easy to learn. The very fine details are really worth it. I've already printed tiny parts for my model making hobby such as 1/35 milk crates, coolers, chainsaws. Just fantastic! I've started redoing the files and am just slicing the pieces in Chitubox. Will start printing this afternoon. Fingers crossed!
  13. Ya. Definitely a learning experience. This is my first large scale print and everything, minus small parts, was printed hollow to save resin. I'll have to look at my 3D files, but the walls are maybe 2 or 3 mm thick as suggested in 3D forums. As you can see from the small grey circles, I do put drain openings in. I guess they are not large enough to let the alcohol enter and rinse properly. The holes are anywhere from 2 to 4 mm diameter. I use an Elegoo Mercury Plus washing and curing station. The black resin is "Water Washable". This doesn't mean you are to rinse items in a sink and let it pour down the drain. That is super bad for environment. It basically means you don't have to use alcohol. To keep things simple, I used 99% alcohol for everything. I rinse items about 5 minutes for larger pieces. These are simple placed inside the curing machine tub, and there is a little spinner that creates a circular current that washes most of the resin away. You let part drain, then switch machine to curing mode. I couldn't find any info (even from Elegoo) about what cure times you should use. I only did about 5 minutes total. So, my takeaway: Create larger openings where able: For example; the magazine housing comes in two pieces. The main large box and a thin base plate (you can see it peeled away in the photo). For the next print I will create a large rectangular opening on the bottom of the magazine housing, leaving enough of a lip to attach the base plate. Anywhere I can't do this I will place the largest holes possible and accept that I have lots of filling to do. Rinse better: A person on a 3D forum says he uses a syringe filled with alcohol or water (when resin allows this) to pump cleaning fluid through the parts. Since the cure station tub holds dirty used alcohol (it is expensive...) after the initial "spin cycle" rinse I will fill another storage tub with water and let it soak and rinse in there. Same forums suggested that leaving parts soaking in 99% for too long can also cause damage to parts. Remove internal supports when able: On same forum someone suggested not using internal supports if able. The supports and structure cure at different rates, causing the warping and cracking. They may also prevent rinsing fluid from circulating properly. Make sidewalls thicker: Helps beef up structure and reduce warping. Elegoo comment to a forum question was 4mm. Downside is more resin is used, but it is better than wasting a big print. Research cure times: For some reason, I think leaving a piece in the UV machine for 10 minutes will cause it to burst into flames LOL If I can swing the time this weekend I will try and reprint. I won't get blaster done by Empire day next week, but it may get done by the time we move in middle of June. Stay tuned all!!!
  14. Oh horror of horrors!!! My SE-14 is slowly exploding Last night I finally managed to sand everything, wash and dry and was assembling. I noticed that the front of the main grip felt a little soft, but didn't think anything of it. Then this morning: And my magazine housing did the same slightly. I read up on line that this is most likely due to uncured resin trapped inside. It may take a while for it to expand etc, and can cause this. So the magazine wasn't to bad, but split along one corner. I decided to rinse it out with water through the small gap. I came back a few minutes later and it was much worse!!!: I felt the support sprues that were left inside and they were still soft and pliable. So basically uncured. It's weird as the parts have been sitting for weeks. Either I didn't rinse properly and /or didn't cure the parts enough. I think that I may have reactivated the resin somehow as I rinsed today. I then noticed that the back end cap on main body has started to split. I felt the knurling and where it was rock hard before it is soft and squishy around the entire circumference: I'm now waiting for the entire thing to blow up. Hopefully not. I hope the main body doesn't go as it is basically sanded and ready to prime. This might have been a colossal waste of resin and time. Unfortunately I won't have time to reprint everything before the big move.
  15. Hey Jonas! Hope all is well over there. My DLT was put on hold because of the electronics issues. I finally received the DLT and E11 electronics about 3 weeks ago from TRamp in the UK. He is AWESOME BTW. In the meantime I have found out that we are moving across country again (yay for the military!!!) this summer. It will be a long 2 week trip. Canada is great but freakin huge. About 7500 kms door to door. Anyways, we had to by a new home in Gander, Newfoundland (just google it LOL) virtually, and just sold our home here in BC yesterday. Needless to say the projects were all put on hold for a few weeks. That’s why I started this up. I wanted a quick build and paint to feel like I accomplished something. I’m hoping to have this done for May 4th. Maybe a photo shoot with the SE-14 recreating the original publicity shots?
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