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Helotech

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    192
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About Helotech

  • Rank
    Expert Infantry

FISD Info

  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-H

Standard Info

  • Name
    Dave
  • 501st ID
    98695
  • 501st Unit
    Capital City Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

232 profile views
  1. Awesome job. I also forgot that I added Velcro to the tops of the boots, front and back, where the little pull tabs are. I then added Velcro to the inside of the calves, front and back. This prevents the calves from riding up. Mine never move So far in the package I have: Leather strip for holster Aluminum strip for TD Rivets, various sizes. I have lots of these left over Helmet fans, two types. These are just the fans. You will need to do some wiring for a power source, but at least you have these. I won't need them I checked you shopping list and didn't see any of the following. Question: Do you need any of this stuff?: Sticky Velcro in black and white. (can you find industrial strength near you?) Line 20 or 24 snaps Chicago screws 2" White elastic strapping for shoulders. Thin white elastic string to tie down the shoulder strap.
  2. You’re doing great! Just make sure your cover strips are trimmed evenly (long edges are parallel) and glued so they cover the joint, and everything will look good. When it comes time to do the legs, let me know. You don’t need to completely tear apart the calves. I actually trimmed the overlap at the back with a pair of good scissors.
  3. Looking great so far! As long as you can wiggle your hand through the forearm, you are good. If you can’t do it with the gloves then don’t worry. I put my forearm arm through, then put on my gloves and tuck them in. Good work on the armour clean up and snap removal. Youre doing great.
  4. I know Ive said it a couple times, but I’m still packing up the stuff to send to you. Life and such, as it goes... I’ll check your posts and our PM’s again to see what else you need.
  5. Exactly how I did it Joseph. Make sure you follow the old carpenter adage: Measure twice, cut once. Instead of using a knife, I actually used a plastic scribing tool. Google “plexiglass glass scribe tool” and you will see what looks like a knife with a hooked blade. You can find these in hardware stores and they are used to scribe and snap clear acrylic sheets. I found that the knives have a tendency to wander off the ruler. The scribe tools are easy to use. Start with a light pass, then a couple heavier ones, and then you snap. Jonas, make sure you glue the proper side down. The ABS has a very shiny “outside” and a duller inside. Once I cut the ABS, I just ran a sanding sponge up and down the snapped edge. This cleaned things up really well. You may want to take a file or some sand paper and sand all the corners to a 45 degree angle. I’m not sure if this is required by the CRL, but it makes it look good.
  6. No worries. My Spanish is horrible, so you're way ahead of me
  7. Baby steps are looking good My elastic straps are simply tied in a loop, and are free to slide front to back. They aren't attached to the armor in any way. I did this so that when I was dressing, I could slide the elastic strap towards my back, push down on the shoulder strip, then slide the elastic over the shoulder and settle it into one of the grooves. I was afraid that if the elastic was attached I would have to bend the shoulder bit underneath and risk the chance of the strap snapping.
  8. Cricket's info is correct. If you look at the CRL's for a TK, the chest plate covers the ab armour more than you first ref picture. Everyone's bodyare different, but the ab buttons may only be about 2 or 3 inches from the bottom of your chest armour. Yours seem like more than that. Maybe 4"? Although, now that I look at the screen grab in Crciket's post, there seems to be allot of Ab armour showing.... I basically hiked my cod piece up as far as it would go. Easiest thing would be to start with hiking up the cod before attempting any trimming. Good luck!
  9. I think you are definitely getting close. I don't think any knee and leg armor placement will line up perfectly at the top edge. It is hard to do. My answer would be to get as close as possible, but make sure that the front of the knee is parallel with the floor, and not angled. This really stands out and is noticed by people.
  10. If you continue to have huge issues and aren't happy with the SDS, I would suggest ordering a new Knee Plate. I ordered the right thigh ammo pack from ATA, and the plastic was basically an exact match for SDS. Prices are reasonable. Fast service and excellent product! Just another option for you.
  11. It's better, but they still may pick you up on the angle of the knee from the front view. Maybe someone else can chime in? You may need to tilt up the left side of the snipe plate (as you are wearing the armor) Once you do that, you may have to trim the upper 1/4" edge of the sniper knee on the left hand side: The left and right top edges of the knee may not match, but at least from looking straight on or either side it would look good. Your knee has a vastly different top side profile than mine. I have a much higher top edge to my knee. Not sure why? Did you trim yours? I do like the thinner profile of yours rather than my "ski jump" looking knee, but I didn't want to trim mine as it is the only way it would work with the calf armor. Mine: Keep going. You're doing great!
  12. I'll just type it out... www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47323-helotech-sds-hero-build/page/3/
  13. Thanks for the shout outs Mario David (yay! Another Dave in an SDS...) Lining up the knee is a bit of a pain, but doable in the SDS. My link function to my Hero build is not working while on my work computer. Just go under my ANH Hero build, TK 98695. I lined up the center of the knee so it was perfectly level, so not angled low left to right. I clamped it temporarily without gluing. I then made sure the top left and right of the knee plate ran along the top edge of the calf armour as per the pics above. It won't be perfect, but you should be able to get close. I made a very light pencil mark on the front of the calf where the bottom edge of the knee would be. I then applied E6000 glue only to the MIDDLE portion of the knee, and clamped it in place and left it for 2 to 3 days to make sure the glue was set. After the front was glued, I glued the left and right "wings" of the knee plate down, and left it for 2 or 3 days. Hope this helps, and keep up the good work.
  14. Wow. Big progress! Let us know if you need any help and good luck! I’ll be packaging up the extra bits I have and shipping them next week.
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