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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About ShadyP

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  • Birthday 12/27/1981

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    Colchester, VT


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  • 501st Unit
    New England Garrison
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  1. I got very little done this weekend aside from the drive to and from Portland Maine for a Make-A-Wish troop. Before I glue these together to prep for bondo and the foam lining / return edge, is this correct? I can’t tell if I should glue the from/back flush with the detail side of the back crest or if I line up the trim lines and reinforce with a cover strip on the inside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. that's why I've opted to use EVA Foam. It'll arrive early next week and will likely drive me up the wall a few times while I get it cut to shape. My next mission is to attach the raised details to the thighs and shins. Specifically the holster plate and the strange credit card swiping details. My plan is to use some loctite to attach some white plastic screwed to them and then drill holes in the armor. Add a washer/nut to the back and loctite those in place.
  3. I knew you'd catch that. My squad's Kylo was over helping sand parts last night and gave he a hard time about those pictures as well. We also debated the correct way to do the yoke return edge. The options we were going back and forth on are using ABS scraps to make it or ordering some Foam. I'm going with the foam. I'll cut it to shape and coat the sides with an epoxy to harden it up for a bondo seam filling. I'm ordering this stuff in the 6mm thickness. It looks like the yoke varies in thickness so I'll strategically add and subtract to the sheets thickness as necessary. Thankfully I have crafty friends to assist with this part. On another bright side, I should have plenty left over to line the forearms and tighten them up a bit.
  4. This is what the forearm looks like. With the gloves, it’s not as bad. It does seem loose though. I’m going to attach the holster before glueing the halves together. Making the riser’s base seamless and keeping that seam line would be tricky if I did it after glueing. Since I have a resin and metal holster from Dan, I got it out to confirm sizing. What do you know, it doesn’t fit and would require much more bondo to build up to matching this outline. Oh well, I’ll use the BSP supplied holster and sell Dan’s. For comparison, here are the two next to each other. I’ve got the other thigh glued and curing on one side. Once this glue dries I’ll put it on to see if I need to shim the inside seam. As I mentioned, I want to attach the holster before glueing the other leg. Biceps and forearms are glued and just need the excess e6000 removed. Photos for the sake of photos. A few of the “no glue required” parts were sanded and made ready for use tonight as well. The outer chest, kneecaps, and butt are all ready to go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. not a ton of progress in the last few days. And I don't have any photo's at the moment so show of what little I did get accomplished. I've finished gluing the biceps and I'm rather surprised at how well they fit. I didn't make any sizing adjustments to the BSP trim lines, they just fit. Yay. I've finished gluing the forearms. They fit just fine with the gaskets at the elbow, but they are very wide at the wrist and it feels awkward. I've seen posts/threads/comments about adding some foam inside to make them sit properly on my arm, but I still question whether or not I should rip these apart (used E6000) and trim the sides a little to tighten up the hand side of the forearm. I'll get a photo showing the width at my wrist the next time I sit down to work on this. Next I plan to tackle the legs. My question for folks is whether or not I should add the holster and other parts to the halves before gluing the shells together. I'm leaning toward assembling the part and then adding detail bits but I'm not sure if that's the most effective angle. Our Riot Shields arrived from Backstage Props. They were supposed to be included in the original shipment as an added bonus for all the preorders. BSP shipped them out with the replacement ab boxes that were originally shipped with a corner cut off.
  6. Noted. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Ok, got out my gaskets and checked the sizing of the forearms. I need to keep reminding myself that these parts will fit differently than my current TK. These forearms aren’t nearly as enormous once the gaskets were in place. I glued 1 of the remaining edges on both forearms. I also glued one of the seams on the biceps. Tomorrow night, I’ll close up the arms. I had never actually unpacked the gaskets. Figured I’d put the shoulders on and see what the fit was like with the hot suit and tactical vest. The thighs and abs will be supported off the vest. I’m copying the support system used by one of our GML’s. I need to tighten up the top strap on the gaskets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks. I’ll look into those ideas when the time comes. I’m back to forearms tonight and I found the rest of my magnets. These forearms are incredibly wide as is. I’m going to need to trim the sides down. The clearest edge I see to trim is the straight edge that won’t be seamless. The clip side is my concern. How much space between the edge and the recessed spaces for clips is necessary? In these photos, the purple line is where I’m inclined to trim, the green line the point of concern. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I'll measure the decals spaces that aren't cut out for the black mesh. The chest pill holes and bicep, lower wrist ovals are cutout aren't they? I've been under the impression that the Chest "V", ab boxes, forearm boxes and the rest are decals.
  10. @JAFO or @ukswrath - do either of you know a good source for the assorted decals we're going to need? I just ordered 3 sets of Tony's black mesh and gaffers tape. Looking for the other black decals we need.
  11. I don't see this return edge in the shoulder lip on any of the CRL shoulder images. I'm not convinced it needs to exist. I'm honestly surprised that this part isn't included on the shoulder bell in the mold. There's not a whole lot of sense in adding this one as the seam would look much better if it was included on the mold. It is what it is and I'll be corrected my mistake tonight either by reattaching the trapezoid with ABS paste or just cutting out a new one.
  12. Halloween time is incredibly busy at my house so I haven’t had as much time as I hoped to worked on this kit after getting home from Pittsburgh last week. Oh well. I finished trimming everything except the upper back ridge, TD halves, and belt/AB boxes. I’ll trim those when it’s time to build them. I had an oh shucks moment after trimming the shoulder bell lip. There was an odd trapezoid shape in the trim line, I cut it. I definitely should not have. Oh well, I can trace these parts on any of the large scraps I have left and make new ones. Could be worse, could be the yoke return edge. I had hoped to turn the 8 forearm pieces into 4 today but I couldn’t locate half of my clamps and magnets. They’re here somewhere. I glued this half of the forearms and will have to give the E6000 24 hours or so to cure before I join the halves. I’m an likely going to need to order more magnets or gluing all of this is going to take months. Not to mention the bondo work I’ve got coming. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Not just the inner chest but the back needs it around the arms too Roberto.
  14. well, at least the TK shown getting killed in the RoS trailer has a very minimal return edge on the yoke. I've decided that I'm going to assemble the yoke/back as is and then sort out what to do about the return. No sense in adding it back to 2 pieces separately.
  15. I'm thinking that EVA foam, not sintra (my mistake), coated in epoxy or fiberglass resin would survive the rough and tumble land of trooping. The photo Tony posted looks like the return is about 1/2 inch.. is there a specific length I need to strive for?
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