Jump to content


Deployment Officer[Staff]
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by justjoseph63

  1. And yet they still continue to market TK armor kits (link here) using an "Interest List". Shameful, especially at $1200.00 a pop, and that doesn't include boots or a blaster. I remember buying mine for $300.00. Side note: The Mouse has to make a profit, of course. The last time I was there (earlier this year) they had a full set of FOTK armor for only $6615.00 (sans weapon). I came THIS close, lol.
  2. THANK YOU for your submission, Georgia! One of us will be with you shortly, so hang in there!
  3. Hi Zack! The only 2 items we can see are the light sabers, but in looking at your total it looks as if there are other items. If one of those is a set of Stormtrooper armor, can you provide a link? The reason I ask is that if you are interested in joining the 501st, anything made by Rubies is not accurate. Not even close. The helmets are not accepted at all, and the armor takes a LOT of work to meet standards. There are many vetted vendors (link here) who can provide a top-notch kit you if this is your goal. If you are asking about the light sabers, I would suggest checking out the Sith Lord Detachment (link here), but anything Stormtrooper related we are more than happy to help with. Just ask! (Especially before spending any money)!!
  4. Thanks, Rich! I have added her in as a pauldron maker, but this information could also be added to Tony's @ukswrath FOTK vendors list here. Not sure if she makes OT holsters (material may be too thin) but worth asking!
  5. Looking SHARP, trooper... welcome to the ranks and glad to have you aboard! If you want to take your armor even further, you might want to consider applying for Expert Infantry and then Centurion. Here is a link that will give you some more info.: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/
  6. Welcome to the FISD, Piers! As Andrew mentioned, if it's ROTJ armor you are looking for you really can't get any more accurate than Mark's. Cast from an original set, it's as close as you get to screen used and he has a sterling reputation here as a seller. Whoever you choose, know that we are here every step of the way to help!
  7. If you are not in a hurry, I still have a ton of the black heavy-duty nylon upholstery thread if you need some (no charge). Just PM me.
  8. While I'm sure someone put a lot of time into designing/making this bucket, but there are just too many issues in my opinion. In addition to what Justin pointed out, a few others include: Frown shape is way off. Areas around tears/traps/and frown should be white, not gray, and the lines look a bit sloppy. Rear traps appear WAY too large and not recessed. Also, it looks as if the brow trim is part of the print, and not a separate piece, and those ears are definitely molded in. Since I doubt that this particular bucket would even pass Basic 501st approval, unless you are just planning on using it as a display piece I would steer clear.
  9. I've been looking forward to this, Tim! As for your questions: "I’ve read on some threads that there can be differences in ABS colour if purchased at a later date. Is this the case and is it something I need to consider if I order my bucket and armour separately"? I wouldn't worry about that too much. It takes time for any yellowing to occur, but heat can affect the color as well so just keep it in a cool place during (and after) construction and you should have no issues. "In terms of tools required for the helmet, is the below correct"? Looks like you have everything you need to have on your list. I would suggest seeing if anyone close to you in the UKG has a rivet gun to save you some money, since the bucket is the only thing you will need it on. "I like to take my time. I plan and research an awful lot to make sure I’m making good decisions, so there maybe longer periods of inactivity. Please stick with me". Along with posting LOTS of photos (especially before cutting if you have an issue) that is the best course of action. And yes, we will be with ya' through thick and thin!
  10. You are knocking this right out of the park, Joe... SUPER nice job! After Basic approval, I certainly hope to see you submit this armor for Expert Infantry, and then on to Centurion, sir. If I could make a few suggestions for those levels : 1. The paint job on your ab buttons is brilliant (many people have issues with this, but you nailed it). If you want to go the extra mile (and I get the feeling you do) it would be a good idea to reduce the size of the small plate. As seen in the reference photos, it was not quite as large as you have it at present but this is actually easier than you think! If you used E-6000 to attach it, just (caaarefully) use a razor knife to cut through the glue, pop it off, trim it, glue it back and you are golden! This should take all of 10-15 minutes at most (not including time for the glue to dry). Reference images Once you get your 501st approval and official TK#, you should submit for Legion access here in the FISD (link here). This will be required before applying for the higher levels, but it will also give you access to many other areas of our site that are not currently viewable.
  11. There are a few variables, including what type of ABS your armorer uses. I have trooped for countless hours in the Florida sun in my AM armor with no noticeable yellowing, but my Anovos (Hero) armor has only been used a few times (it stays in a bin otherwise) and has gone darker. Even without sunlight, heat can (and will) cause yellowing, so it's best to store your bin in a controlled environment if possible. Once I get it back to it's original color I will be trying this product.
  12. The issue with CA glue is that it becomes brittle over time, and depending on the manufacturer it can also turn an ugly (and permanent) shade of yellow. If applied is large areas it could potentially ruin the appearance of some parts (especially the calves, which are opened and closed a lot) with spiderweb type exterior cracks. I always suggest that it never be used on a build. I built the majority of my first set armor using it and ended up selling it on ebay because of the dripping issues. The gel type is easier to work with, but it also become brittle with age and can cause joins to fail. Trust me.
  13. Excellent tip there, Rich. I have seen this happen more times than I can count, and getting black dye off of armor is no small feat.
  14. Welcome, Alan, and know that you are definitely in the right place! I have trooped in AM armor for many years and couldn't be happier with quality. Being in the Orlando area you will eventually be joining the Makaze Squad. Some of the advantages of being in this area are: 1. A GREAT group of 501st addicts. 2. TONS of trooping opportunities (the last year I was in that squad we had over 250 events to choose from in the greater Orlando area)! 3. You have some of the best folks in the Legion on a local basis that can help you with your armor build. My very good friend Gary Collins (jr.) is a genius when it comes to all things shiny white armor and often holds some epic armor parties. Link here to see what this entails. Tell him "Joseph sent ya". If you need contact info. just PM me.
  15. You are moving along at a fantastic pace James, and are doing all the right things! As I say to all who start a build- Take....your...time, ask lots of questions and post up lots of photos before cutting, gluing or adding hardware. When in doubt, ask. Mario hit the nail on the head about the TD plate placement, so you will be good to go there if you follow his advice. Keep on doing what you are doing and know that we are here for ya'. P.S. AWESOME tip about using nail polish remover to get rid of the text on the gloves. I am SO stealing that idea and adding it to my sales thread. THANKS!
  16. The originals used single cap rivets for the thigh ammo pack connection, but split rivets or double cap are 100% acceptable at Centurion level. If you need any specific hardware for any part of your build I keep those in stock (sales thread here) at all times and can send you whatever individual pieces you need, just PM me.
  17. The double snap method will serve you well for keeping your armor from coming apart during a troop (trust me), but it probably won't help with any cracking issues. I really haven't seen any issues with RS cracking, as it is pretty thick, but the key is to keep an eye out on any potential areas when un-suiting after a troop. If you see any starting to form, you can easily reinforce them before they spread. Even after 50+ troops in my AM armor I have had no issues, but I had to do a few repairs on my Anovos armor due to the ABS being thinner but with some strategic repairs/reinforcements they came out great.
  18. If I could expand on that... in addition to having the most activity on our boards, we have an incredible base of talented folks here that are more than willing to share their expertise with those on their white armor journey. It truly makes me proud that all new folks are welcomed and never, ever judged. Have I seen and answered the same questions hundreds of times? You bet, and I am more than happy to do this a few thousand more times. It's what we do here. All of us remember logging in for the first time, not knowing a Vocoder from a sniper knee plate, but with the help of others we made our dream of becoming shiny white spaceman (or woman) a reality.
  19. Hi Wayne, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to EI! On behalf of the entire DO staff, congratulations!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Really nice job on this RWA armor, Wayne, and we appreciate the updated photos! Although not requirements, we are suggesting that you take a few moments to look over the following in this section : As seen in the reference images, the top of the eye openings could be trimmed back a bit. We realize that some screen used buckets had a slight excess, but doing this would give a more "ideal" look. Reference images Not a deal breaker, but it looks like you may have a bit too much padding in the top of your helmet. It is sitting pretty high and for a much better overall look should sit a lot lower. I also noticed (as seen in the second photo) that you are looking down rather than forward. I had this exact same issue... constantly tilting my bucket forward just to able to see. (Let's face it, out field of vision is not the greatest to begin with, lol), but once I removed all the padding... voila! I could actually see MUCH better! Reference images \ Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. As per the CRL for Level 3, the paint on the ab-plate buttons " does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button" . It may be the photo, but it appears that the paint goes down to the base on them. If so, it will need to reduce it around the edges. Some non-acetone paint remover, a few toothpicks and cotton swabs and a bit of your time will have those cleaned up nicely! Reference images As seen in the reference images below, the plate on your TD needs to come down in the back. The ribbed area should face toward the rear, with the O ring on or near the top. Reference image Reference images Doing this is actually easier than you think, should take all of 10-15 minutes, and this is what I would suggest: 1. Remove the clips and trim off the ends (as shown) with a hacksaw. 2. Rotate the plate to where the ends meet the bottom of the plate (like you have it now). 3. Drill new holes as shown. You will have to drill new holes for the other screws as well. 4. Re-attach the screws. DONE! An easy fix here which should take about 5 minutes- Your cloth belt could use a haircut! Reference images Good news/bad news here, brother... You did an awesome job tightening up the ab-kidney connections, but unfortunately by tightening up your belt it caused your posterior plate to ride out quite a bit. Reference images It doesn't have to be perfectly aligned, but I would suggest making a couple of Glen's V-tabs to bring them in a bit. Your drop box position on the right side is perfection, but the left side needs some adjusting. This is another super-easy fix by just adding a dab of E-6000 behind the rear strap once you get it lined up correctly. Reference images As stated in the CRL, "The ridges on the sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin". This will require you to pop the sniper knee off (if you need ideas for this, just PM me) and re-align it.*** It doesn't have to be perfect, but must be a lot closer than it is. *** Mario ( @TKSpartan ) has done this with RWA sniper knee plates with awesome results and can help! Reference images And that's it, sir! You have a bit of work in front of you, but we have every confidence that you can take care of these requests in fine style. I know you are busy with the upcoming wedding (CONGRATS, by the way!) but if you have an hour or so to spare at some point I am looking forward to seeing your Centurion submission soon! If we can be of any help, just ask,
  20. Thanks for the photos, sir! Sorry for the delay, but our site had a few technical glitches in the last day or so but know that I am now on top of it. Hang in there!
  21. I think Glen is at about 20+ approved costumes, so that's gonna be a tough one... (I secretly think he has an airplane hangar for storage).
  22. The calf pieces are lined up perfectly, but the thighs are twisted out a bit and the highest parts are almost on your sides. Ideally, the cover strips should line up as seen below: Twisting them in may just get rid of the chafing from the thigh ammo pack, but until you get the strapping done it's hard to tell. The areas that I would be concerned about are those in the groin. I don't suggest having ANY of the return edges there, as after an hour of walking they have the potential to really cut into you ("armor bite") depending on how tight they fit.
  23. Fantastic job on this armor, James! One thing that jumped out at me are the elastic bands on your shoulder bridges. Yours seem to be round instead of flat... these will be fine for EI, but for Centurion they will need to be the flat type. I know this seems like a small detail, but Level 3 is all about the details. If you are having trouble sourcing the correct ones I am happy to mail you as set of them (no charge), just PM me if interested.
  24. Sorry for the late reply, but I think Airsoft grip is fine at all levels for R1, and I really wouldn't even have a problem with EI for ANH/ESB, but for Centurion the grip should be replaced and the power cylinders need to match official references (or at least be close).
  • Create New...