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justjoseph63

Deployment Officer[Staff]
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Everything posted by justjoseph63

  1. I include those (strap and name in Aurebesh) on every order.
  2. Holy cats, Caleb! I had no idea this was you that made these.. it took me a second, but then when I saw the Virginia Beach location it finally dawned on me, lol. You know yourself that real metal U-channels are next to impossible to find, so I would suggest starting a sales thread here. Thanks again for an awesome product and especially for helping me finish up this puppy!
  3. Holy crow, Adam.. looking fantastic! Always great to see a fellow detail freak, and I'm looking forward to watching this build! I still have those "forgotten" greebs if you need them, btw. One thing I noticed was that I'm not overly sure that the pic below is showing scraggly wires. It may be me, but it looks like a flat strip of plastic (like a zip-tie). Apparently they used those to re-attach some of the various pieces on that fell off during production. I also wonder if the missing paint on the front of the power cylinders (as well as the scope greeb missing in a lot of pics) was due to holstering it repeatedly. Hmmmm. I gotta' say that the pic I got the most excited about was this one: FINALLY another pic of that "mystery piece"! Fantastic sleuthing!
  4. Welcome to the FISD, Adam! Finding someone to build your armor may be a tall order, but you are truly in the right place should you choose to build it yourself. Many (if not most, myself included) of us had never attempted to take on something like this, but know that you have an entire Detachment that is more than willing to help you every step of the way! As Glen suggested, contacting your local Garrison or Squad can be really helpful, but in the absence of that you are more than welcome (and encouraged) to ask all the questions you want to. There are some fantastic build threads here on every costume we have, but if there are any particular queries you have never be shy about asking.. it's what we do best! If you go the D.I.Y. route, one thing I would suggest is to start your own build thread here. Posting photos of your build is important. Doing this allows you to show off your progress, but is most important when you have an issue. I have a thread here which will help. Whichever route you choose, we are here for ya'!
  5. Hi Kevin... that is one fantastic looking pack, sir! Always great to see another HWT in the making! Most of us use a grayish blue paint for the areas seen below. Don't forget to do some light weathering as well!
  6. FINALLY! As some of you may know I moved into my new house (at last) and I hope you understand that I am not bragging, but I am chuffed to have my own little Fortress of solitude, as it were. I still have to build mannequins for one of my TKs and my Tusken raider, but I'm getting close to having my ideal SW room. Side note: Has anyone who collects TK figurines of any size noticed that they (with rare exceptions) have no holster?
  7. Thanks, gents! I have 2 mannequins to build for my new man-cave, but after that I start on an F-11D. This really is a sickness, lol, but living in the middle of nowhere I have to keep myself occupied.
  8. WOW, Adam! And I thought I put a lot of work into building these, lol. You really took the ball and ran with it, sir, and I'm envious as all heck!
  9. Finished! Again, please keep in mind that this 3D E-11 kit was apparently designed from the "Battlefront" videogame version so there are some significant differences. Most I could overcome, but a big one was the holes in the shroud. They simply do not correspond to the screen used (MGC) ones. I got as close as I could, so bear that in mind. Once I got ready to mount the U channels I found that my rivet gun was too wide to fit down into the channels themselves (pic 1). After a few choice curse words muttered under my breath I knew had to figure out how to attach them. I briefly considered screws, but it just wouldn't be the same. SO, I separated the rivets (14 of them), separated the mandrels (center parts), cut down the length and epoxied them back into the rivet pins as seen in the second 2 pics below. I should have mentioned before that when building the main body that I installed a thin metal tube inside the shroud to give the appearance of an actual barrel. Oops. My plan ended up as seen below (pic 1). Drill out the holes on the channels and shroud/barrel (just as one normally would) but I epoxied each modified rivet in. I was afraid this may make it sort of fragile, but after the epoxy set they are actually very sturdy. WHEW! HINT: Drill all holes in the channels and shroud BEFORE attaching them. The holes for the rivets were integrated into the print, but they did not line up correctly (mainly due to the barrel mods) so I drilled new ones. Hint: Make sure the holes for the rivets are between the holes in the shroud (pic 2). The channel that sits on the left side will have to have the bottom bent down on the front to accommodate the front "D" ring. HINT: Attach the D-ring/mount AFTER attaching the channels. The stock that came with the kit was too long after cutting down the length of the of the shroud earlier , and to add some "heft" I used a real vintage Sterling folding stock for this build, which differs slightly from the original- especially in the area seen with the red arrow (first pic). Not too noticeable, but I hope it doesn't keep me up at night thinking about it.** I did add the rivet on the side, which as I mentioned before will prevent the stock from extending. **It will. After touching up the paint and letting that dry overnight, I added some light weathering. Had these made for all my display pieces. And that's it. Finished, and finally added to my "wall-o'-weapons". To anyone who has followed this, thanks for looking! U-Channels- After spending more time that I care to admit to searching for these, I finally found a seller (George) on the RPF. Once he got them made shipping was fast and I honestly could not be more pleased with the quality. A little pricey, but well worth every cent in my opinion. Link to his sales thread on the RPF here.
  10. Accurate I'll admit, and better than our perceived image:
  11. I'll echo what Glen and Andrew have said, Chris. You have a LOT of folks here that are not just willing and able but eager to help every step of the way! We've been-there-done-that and know what it's like to be in your situation, so not to worry... you can do this! Once you have all your build supplies in place, I can suggest a few basic things: 1. Stay organized. 2. Take.... your... time. Don't try to rush. Trust me on this one. 3. Ask questions. As many as you like. This is especially important if you are in doubt about something, especially before cutting or gluing. 4. Check your references. Often. Sometimes the CRLs can be a bit vague, and I have a thread here which will help with detailed pics. 5. Most importantly, post photos (and lot's of em'). Doing this is especially helpful when you have a question or issues. 6. There are times that you will get frustrated... we all did at some point but don't let this discourage you. Sometimes it's best to take a break from your build, check your references, ask any questions you have and then dive back in. We are here for you, and I look forward to following your build!
  12. UPDATE: Now that I am settled in to my new home, I dug this project out so that I can finish it up this weekend. I had quite a bit of trouble sourcing the U-channels, but finally found a set online (details to follow). Although not inexpensive, they are crazy accurate and arrived pre-cut to the correct lengths with the corners rounded. Made of 22 gauge aluminum they are incredibly sturdy. As I mentioned, this will be a display piece but I am sure they would hold up even under rigorous trooping. A quick sand with 220 grit paper to help paint adhesion, a thorough cleaning and 3 coats of paint later they are DONE! Next up: Attaching the folding stock, front D ring, U channels and weathering.
  13. AWESOME to hear.. looking forward to seeing the updated pics, Trooper!
  14. The soles are tan and the overall look is good. The areas shown by the yellow area will be covered of course, but the raised toe cap (blue arrow) may be a concern. I would check with your GML and over at the Pathfinders Detachment (link here) for more solid answers.
  15. Hi Brandon! You can certainly reach out to Dave from AM, but I know that there has been a shortage of ABS globally so some makers have scaled back production. An alternative would be to pick up a bottle of Armor White from Trooperbay (link here). Just mask off the areas you don't need to whiten and follow the directions on the bottle!
  16. If you want to have Legion Access here (where your TK# and position are listed under your name) just follow the link that Mario provided, which normally takes less than 48 hours or so.. After that is complete, you will probably need to contact the Legion Captain of the Guard to add your Detachment affiliation on your profile. You can contact them at cog@501st.com. If you have any issues, just let us know!
  17. You can do this, Georgia! If you need any help, please feel free to contact us.
  18. Not at all, Paul. I always put interior cover strips on everything! Although not "screen accurate" they are not seen and provide extra strength to the seams. Even if someone doesn't want to use them for the other limb parts, I always suggest at least using them on the inside fronts of the calves. Those pieces get a lot of wear from opening and closing when putting on your armor so the extra reinforcement certainly helps. Another reason for using them is that some armor parts have more of a curve and the cover strips are flat. Having one on the inside takes some of the stress off the one on the outside.
  19. Agreed, mesh was not seen on any TK frown in the OT, thus the part of the CRL that states "Mesh MAY be used to obscure the face of the wearer". However, TKs seen onscreen had the advantage of lighting techs that (with a few exceptions as you showed) managed to hide their facial features underneath. BUT... When we troop, we are not characters on a screen. We are there in person.. close up. Sometimes mere inches away from a fan who wants to take a selfie. I personally would rather my teeth openings be obscured by 50 cents worth of bug screen and add to the perceived image rather than look like some stranger in a cool costume.
  20. OK Paul.. so.... WOW! You are nailing this build, sir! SUPER nice alignment on the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection (no gaps) and a fantastic job on the ab/kidney rivet placement! Not sure if you are aiming for higher levels of approval (E.I and Centurion) but I think I can speak on behalf of the entire D.O department when I say I (we) hope so! Keep up this solid job, sir, and keep those photos (and questions) rolling in!
  21. That means you will be part of the Tampa Bay Squad. Lots of fantastic folks in that group and lots of events there to show off that armor! I have trooped with many of them in the T.B. area so you will be in great company. BUT, once you get your official TK # you are more than welcome to troop with any Garrison/Squad in the world! Makaze Squad (Orlando area) has a TON of events year-round so I would check those out as well.
  22. Hi Tony! One of our Staff members (Steve) is a member of the Empire City Garrison, so I would suggest getting in touch with him. He may be able to offer some help finding someone or at least some insight about the EPG site issues you are having. I have a link here that you can PM him.
  23. The positioning from the cheek is good ("pencil width") but they are on the wrong sides. The fall should lean forward, so just switch sides and you are good to go!
  24. As for the brow trim ends, I would trim them flat as Dan suggested, Luca. You should have no issues for Basic or even E.I approvals with them being angled, but as he mentioned, for Centurion they will need to be trimmed. While not specifically listed in the CRL, it's one of those items we insist on as 99% of screen references show the ends being flat. If they are a bit short after you do this, not to worry. While most of the ones from ANH extended all the way to the rear of the trap, the ESB ones tend to be shorter. I believe this is because after 3 years of sitting in a warehouse the rubber shrank, as the majority do not extend back as much so we allow for this. ANH ESB
  25. It's hard to tell from the angle of the photo, but those look like the FX-ESB type they sell. The shape is very similar, but on the "Classic" (first image) note the sharp point on the black outline (top left), and the bottom right is not rounded. Not to worry, though! I personally would have no issues passing these.
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