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justjoseph63

Detachment Staff[Staff]
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Everything posted by justjoseph63

  1. justjoseph63

    Aeosyn ANH Stunt - TK Pre-Approval Request

    REALLY nice job on this armor, Alicia, especially since you had to cut it down quite a bit! I can see no major issues that would keep you from Basic approval, but of course that would be up to your GML. A few small issues that I would recommend (especially if you are hopefully aiming for EI/Centurion) are listed below, but none that should affect basic. Best of luck on your approval! 1. Paint the kidney rivets white. 2. Change out the bottom ear screws to the flat countersunk slotted type. (The same as the top 2). 3. AWESOME job on the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection! The gap in the front is also perfect, but the gap in the back is a little wide. Removing all the return edge from the bottom of the bells will help bring them in a bit. 4. The strapping on your bicep/forearm connection is causing them to sit unevenly, resulting in a difference in the size of the gaps. 5. The bottom of the back plate wants to ride out. Some additional strapping towards the ends or reducing the length of the existing straps may help. Since I am a member of the Makaze Squad, I gotta ask about the "Honorable Mention" thing, lol.
  2. justjoseph63

    Always a Star Wars fan!!

    Great to have you here, Matthew! You won't be sorry you ordered from AM, and now comes the fun part... putting it together). My advice would be to start your own build thread, where you can post lots of photos, ask questions (as many as you like) and show off your progress. You can find the appropriate area here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/31-costuming-and-builds-501st-approved/ If you are going for an ESB build, I believe AM still adds in the correct hand guards with their kit, but there are several other differences between ANH and ESB that you should be aware of. A complete list of those can be found here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Always feel free to ask for help if you need it, especially before cutting/gluing. Best of luck on your build!!
  3. justjoseph63

    CRL Ranting

    While we (honestly) appreciate your views, Dustin, at the moment (with a few exceptions) the D.O. staff are bound to follow what is written in the CRLs which we know are ever evolving so we are not "dismissing" your evidence. Details that may have been missed when they were initially composed are noticed, which is why we are in the process of performing updates. Please realize that updating the CRLs is not a simple task, and that those doing so are volunteers, so things take time. We will be doing the CRL updates in "batches", with OT TKs coming first, as those make up the vast majority of level 2 and 3 approvals. Immediately after those updates are approved and posted, we will be starting on FO TKs. We have several troopers who are current FO TKs (including one or our LMOs) that have an incredible working knowledge of these costumes who will be advising on prospective changes when that time comes, so yes, we DO have FO TKs who will be involved. At some point during the proposed changes there will be a discussion opened up for all members to contribute, and I hope your voice will be one of those. Also, consider that we are the largest Detachment in the 501st, and therefore the D.O.s have 19 TK costumes within the FISD that they are expected to approve at higher levels. No one can honestly be expected to be an expert in every single one, so they depend on the CRLs to supply this information. As a former D.O., I can assure you that they certainly try, though. In closing, bear with us, voice your opinion when the time comes, and know that it will be heard and considered. I promise you that.
  4. Congratulations on reaching the Expert Infantry level! In order to receive your certificate, you will need to supply information listed below in your post on this thread. Please double check your spelling and TK number, as corrections can not be made once it is generated. Do NOT add, forum names, armor designations (Stunt, Hero, HWT etc.), as these will not be listed. All information MUST be included, or your certificate will not be issued. PLEASE NOTE: One EI certificate will be issued per TK number. ONCE YOUR CERTIFICATE IS GENERATED, A LINK WILL BE ADDED TO YOUR REQUEST POST 1. First Name 2. Last name 3. 501st ID (TK number) 4. Paper size* (See below) 5. The name of the DO that did your final approval. (Tony, Dan, Sha Sha or myself) This is an example of how your post should look. Nothing more, nothing less: Joseph Pedigo 10963 EIB letter sizeTony PLEASE READ THIS CAREFULLY BEFORE SUBMITTING YOUR REQUEST!!!! * If you are American and want a letter (8 1/2 x 11) size certificate, (suggested) write Letter. If you want an A4 sized certificate, write A4. PLEASE NOTE that the A4 is a completely different size than the letter, and those in the U.S. may have trouble printing it. It also will NOT fit correctly in a standard 8 1/2 x 11 frame. It comes in a 300 dpi png-format picture, so you can send it straight to your printer if you want. *************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** I will try my best to get these to you within 24 hours, but it may take up to 48. If you haven't received it within that time frame, please feel free to PM me.
  5. justjoseph63

    Bazz's ANH TK Stunt Build [ATA]

    Great job, Adi! If you want to get a head-start on your EI submission, it would help a lot to post up some close-up photos of your wrist openings, ab plate details and bucket.
  6. justjoseph63

    joining the 501st

    Although I don't know his name or exact weight, here is a photo of an approved TKC trooper that will give you an idea of how armor can be made to fit anyone. Will it require extra work? Yep, but we can help you with any issues you may have. If you have the desire, we have the resources!
  7. justjoseph63

    BigCara's ANH TK AP Build

    The unpainted one (pan-head) on the right is correct and 100% approvable at Centurion level.
  8. justjoseph63

    Episode 9 Stormtrooper research

    Nothing strikes terror into the soul like a TK brandishing an Imperial Issue toilet brush.
  9. justjoseph63

    Hello from the LMO Team 2019

    Welcome to the FISD, Dawn! Your timing could not be better. We will be soon be beginning to get our CRLs up to date and I look forward to working with you!
  10. justjoseph63

    Future TK in Charlotte NC, In memorium

    Welcome to the home of shiny white armor, Derek. Losing a friend is never easy, but joining the 501st is a way of honoring his memory and love of Star Wars costuming. Sorry to hear about your last TK armor order, but with some makers this happens. WTF makes a fantastic set of armor and his reputation on here is sterling. We are here to help every step of the way, so always feel free to ask any questions you may have (no matter how small). While you are waiting for your kit, I would suggest combing through some of the build threads here to get better acquainted with how things are done. I have included a link to this section and a few others below. I would also recommend getting the supplies you will need for your build. Better to have them on hand than to have to scramble around during it. Lastly, if you want to build toward close screen accuracy I would suggest checking out the EI/Centurion area. It's much easier to do this during construction rather than after. Best of luck, and don't be a stranger here on the FISD! Build threads: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ Supply list: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ EI/Centurion info.: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/
  11. justjoseph63

    joining the 501st

    Live the dream and don't let anyone put you off, Matthew. We are here to help!
  12. When ordering anything I would highly suggest only using PayPal and selecting the "Goods and Services" option. I have conducted hundreds of transactions through them and never had a problem. If you do, they are fast in getting your money back. I won't order anything online using a different method. I can assure you that Rob is an outstanding seller with a sterling reputation, so your card was skimmed or the site hacked.
  13. justjoseph63

    White shoulder elastic width?

    I wouldn't recommend gluing any elastic directly to your armor, especially the white shoulder elastic. The reason being is that over time elastic will wear/get stretched out. Although this was the method used in ANH, those costumes were not meant for long-term use. I have replaced the elastic in my shoulders several times over the years, as the snaps that hold the shoulder bells in place eventually pull out due to repeated use. I suggest setting the snap parts that attach to your armor itself with nylon (as seen below). I normally use E-6000 for these, but the shoe-goo would work.
  14. Sorry for the delay, Darrell, one of the D.O.s will be with you soon! Thanks for your patience.
  15. Nice job on the paint fixes, Josh! Glen is spot-on in his suggestion for trimming the ab-button plate, and the small one should have square corners as well. As seen in the reference image he supplied, ideally the outside of the large one should be well inside the raised area. For a much better look, this is how I would suggest trimming it:
  16. justjoseph63

    knee

    Can you show views of the sides, Phil? Also, when using imgur select the Direct Link option (second from the top). This will allow them to be seen on your thread.
  17. justjoseph63

    Greetings from Georgia!

    Welcome to the FISD, Shawn! You have the advantage of having one of our best Attaches (Cricket) in your area, so you are in good hands! As she mentioned, starting your own build thread will be immensely helpful. That way, you can post photos (we LOVE photos), ask as many questions as you like and show off your progress! Even if you decide not to do a build thread, I can't stress how important it is to post up pics of any issues you come across before gluing or cutting. We have seen it all, and are here to help every step of the way no matter how small or large the problem. Take your time, and before you know it you will have that TK number under your name!
  18. Nice work on this armor, Josh! We appreciate the additional photos, but can you post up one more? Please add one showing a close-up side view of your large ab button plate. Thanks!!
  19. Looking pretty sharp there, Art! Speaking strictly from a basic approval standpoint, overall there are no big issues. Your GML may ask you to replace the canvas belt, as even though it looks as if you have removed the top screws that hold the holster on the holes remain. They may also mention that your forearms could come up a bit to close the gap between the them and the bicep. You have done a great job of fitting this armor, especially as you are a bit taller than the average trooper, and should you wish to apply for Expert Infantry there are a few items that would need to be addressed but nothing insurmountable I assure you. Though again, not required, I would suggest painting the ab/kidney rivets white.
  20. There are quite a few options, Zylo. Below are a few links that may help, but before purchasing one (either pre-built or a kit) I would ask for opinions here on the FISD before ordering. There are a ton of them on the market in a wide price range, but not all are acceptable at the higher levels. 1. https://www.etsy.com/market/e_11_blaster 2. https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Blaster-Functioning-Spring-Mechanism/dp/B07NSF18QX/ref=sr_1_4?hvadid=33784295951&hvbmt=p&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=e11+blaster&qid=1552127614&s=gateway&sr=8-4&tag=geminipcstand-20 3. https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp Note that 3-D printed weapons are permitted, but will need quite a bit of work (filling 3-D print lines, LOTS of sanding, paint, etc.) and must have the details as required.
  21. justjoseph63

    SNAP Setting 101

    OK, future Troopers, many of you have asked about how to set snaps for your armor connections, so I thought I'd whip up a little tutorial. Please note that the example that I am making is based on using the "double snap" connection system (see last photo). I highly recommend this method, especially on the back/kidney, kidney/butt, and ab/kidney connections, as it provides an extra layer of confidence. Yes, it costs a bit more to do due to the extra snaps involved, but you can be sure that no matter what happens, you will NEVER have a piece come loose or fall off on a troop. Also, this is the method I swear by. Many may have used others, but after countless troops I have experienced no problems. So here we go............ Materials needed: 1. Hammer 2. Soldering (woodburning) iron. (Available at home improvement and craft stores. WELL worth the $10-$12.00 investment). NOTE: The tip of this thing gets CRAZY hot, so be very careful where you set it. Many come with multiple tips, but I suggest the pointed one. 3. Snap setting kit. (Available at all craft stores). Please note that I am showing both sides of the base... more on that later. Convex side Concave side 4. For this purpose, I am using 2 inch (5cm) wide black nylon and 1 inch (2cm) black nylon. The 1 inch wide part will be attached directly to your armor. I suggest using E-6000 glue and clamps for this. 5. Snaps, of course! Don't "cheap-out" when buying these. The cheap ones come undone very easily and are garbage. For this tutorial, I am labeling the 4 parts as such: STEP ONE Cut the 2 inch strapping to about 4 inches long** (or as needed) for the particular connection. Cut the 1 inch nylon into 2 inch lengths as seen below. **NOTE: The actual length will depend on there you are using them, i.e. the kidney to posterior plate connections will be shorter. Just be sure there are no gaps, and that the 1 inch wide base pieces are in the correct position before attaching them. Example: The ends will be a bit ragged and will fray. Use the soldering tool to seal them. Again, using the soldering gun, make 4 holes in the 2 inch wide nylon as seen below. Be careful not to make them too large (just larger than the shaft of the snap base) or the snap may eventually pull out. Take one of the 1 inch wide nylon pieces and slide it up under one end of the 2 inch wide piece, even with the end. Once it is lined up, use the soldering iron to make holes in the 1 inch wide piece. This will assure that the holes for the snaps line up correctly. (VERY important)! You should end up with this: Repeat for other side, but be sure not to get the sides mixed up, as one set of holes may be wider. Insert one of the male bases into one of the holes in the 2 inch wide piece. Flip it over and place one of the male snaps on the post. Place the base in the concave side of the snap setting kit base. Place the striking rod in the center (straight up and down) and strike it several times firmly with the hammer. The inside shaft should be sufficiently widened to keep the top from coming off. There... your snap is set! NOTE: Do not attempt to do this step on a regular table. You need a hard surface, and a heavy duty workbench or concrete surface works best. Repeat this step for the remaining 3 holes. Now onto the 1 inch wide strips.. Insert one of the female bases into one of the holes, then (as above) place one of the female snaps on top. Place the female snap base into the convex side of the snap setting base. Again, using the striking rod, give it a few good whacks. (Getting the hang of this now)? This is what you should have at this point (only one end shown) CONGRATULATIONS, you have one strap completed! Now that you realize how easy this is and have it down to a science, repeat as necessary. NOTES 1. For added security, the double snap system can be applied to other areas as well, including shoulder bridge attachments and bicep to shoulder bridge, (example below) This is especially good for those who wear packs (HWT, Sandie, Spacetrooper). 2. Snaps set in elastic (as seen above) can pull out over time with repeated use. I recommend doubling the elastic over before attaching the snaps. 3. Be sure to use the female base on all the straps that will be glued to your armor. The reason being is that the bottoms are flat, insuring a tight seal. 4. Some folks set the female snaps in ABS instead of nylon when gluing them to the armor. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this, it's just a different way of accomplishing the same goal. The reason I use nylon is that I find it conforms to the curved parts of the armor better, and gives a larger surface area for the glue to adhere to. 5. Some use CA (super) glue to attach the 1 inch nylon to their armor. I have found that it can get brittle and break off or even cause warping on ABS due to the heat it puts off while drying. E-6000 needs to be clamped and takes more time, but trust me, it's worth the wait. 6. When gluing the 1 inch nylon to your armor, do NOT keep the 2 inch wide nylon attached with the snaps. Some of the glue may seep through the hole in the snap and glue the whole connection together. Not a good thing. If you should have any questions, just ask here or PM me, and best of luck on your build! Photo 1 (Double snap system.. note clamps). SHOUT OUTS: Gary jr. ( @flashpoint0214 ) The guy who introduced me to the double snap system! Jeremy (Copper) who supplied the nice clean photo of the double snap system.
  22. justjoseph63

    Stormtrooper Oddities - What have you noticed?

    In the original films, (especially ANH) there were all sorts of costume issues (as seen in this thread). When applying for basic 501st approval, we go by standards set forth in the Costume Reference Library (CRL). These represent the way an "ideal" costume should look. For basic approval, the standards are not as strict as the higher levels. Troopers who choose to bring their armor to closer levels of screen accuracy can apply for Expert Infantry status and even move on to Centurion status if the standards are met. The requirements for each of these is listed in the CRLs as well. Here is a link that will show you a complete list of FISD costumes, as well as the requirements for each. Hope this helps, but if you have any questions please feel free to ask in the appropriate area. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL
  23. Much better! On a side note, there should be no weathering on the T-tracks. These were made of plastic, and would have no "metal" showing. Reference image
  24. Hi, David, just a note to let you know that we are still awaiting close up photos of your TD showing the correct screws. At present you have 2 different types, but unfortunately neither are correct as required in the CRL for level 2. As seen below, #1. is a Fillister head, #2. is a truss head. Fillister head Truss head Pan head (correct style) We realize that this may seem like a small issue, but because it is specifically listed in the CRL for level 2 we must insist on the correct type before moving forward, and look forward to seeing your updated photos with the new screws. Thank you!
  25. Nice job on that cover strip fix, Eric!!
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