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Deployment Officer[Staff]
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Everything posted by justjoseph63

  1. UPDATE: Sorry for the delay, but I am awaiting a few "surprises" for this build in the mail.
  2. FIFTY troopers? WOW! That must have been a (forgive the pun) blast.
  3. NICE job on this set of AM, Mark.. your hard work has paid off! I know you are aiming for Centurion (you are well on your way) and it can be difficult to notice some issues until you actually see them in photos. You have probably noticed these items already, but if I may make a few suggestions: Photo 1- The ABS belt needs to be raised to where it at least covers the bottom(s) of the ab-button panels. Hopefully you don't have to relocate the snaps that hold it to the canvas belt, and Velcro will help hold that rascal in place. The left thigh should be raised to where the tops of the centers align. Easy strapping issue! Photo 2- In a perfect world the cover strips on the thighs and calves should line up front and back. Again, just a strapping issue. 1. 2. Photo 3- The outside edges of the drop boxes need to align with the outside edges of the ABS belt, and the strap(s) that hold them to the canvas belt should not be visible. Just move em' over and add a little E-6000 to the rear of the elastic to hold them in place and you are good to go! Photos 4/5- Again, something that is impossible to see when suited up, but just make sure whoever is helping you dress fully closes the rear of the calves. Looks like your Velcro may be coming off the bottom. 3. 4. 5. I can definitely see this armor is headed to Expert Infantry, and then onto Centurion!
  4. Excellent cropping on the full length images, Karl, but when you take the new photos we ask that you post them a bit larger. The ones you posted are right around 140 x 600, but there are a lot of details we need to see. Having a height of at least 1200 (or more) would help immensely and save us from having to ask for close-ups. Many thanks!
  5. It's about time, Gerald! Looking sharp, sir.. you have been added to the queue and one of us will be with ya' ASAP!
  6. Amazing job on that pack, brother. Weathering is spot-on- not too much, not too little. Maybe a little black on the pauldron as well?
  7. Welcome to the FISD, Paige! Lots of information here to say the least, but we are here to guide you through your white armor journey. As Jonatan mentioned, having your own build thread will help immensely. That way you can ask all the questions you want to and post up lots of photos of your progress. Posting pics here is especially helpful when you run into an issue. If you aren't sure about something, always ask before cutting or gluing. Trust me on this one. Most importantly, take.... your.... time. Consider your build as a marathon, not a sprint. We are here for ya' every step of the way, so never be shy about hitting us up with any questions.
  8. Looking GREAT, Adam! Not sure if you thought about this, but for the rear of the pack this is what I did: My oil pan is a bit different, but I cut out the back and used a piece of 3mm black craft foam sheet (EVA) to cover the hole. I have an overlap of about 2 inches around the sides and just glued it on. I indented the foam in the hole, which makes room for the raised OII area and allows it to sit close to the back plate. It also helps prevent scratches from the oil pan on my armor.
  9. Sorry for the delay folks.. been prepping for hurricane Ian which is due here in a day or so. I may be offline for a week or so as massive power outages are predicted, so thanks for your patience!
  10. Just pull it up as close as you can and still be comfortable in the "lower area". Walk around a bit, and if it's too tight (or your voice goes up an octave ) you can loosen it up. If the cod is too snug it will cause armor bite (chafing or pinching). Not all troopers are the same height, so a gap is fine. I hope you will be aiming for Centurion with this build (you are WELL on your way), so just a quick heads-up- The small ab-button plate should be be trimmed. There should be no return edge, and ideally the corners should be squared off as seen below: Screen used Example of AP build Keep it up, sir, you're doing great!
  11. Didn't have a lot of time today, but I got some of the detail work completed. The plate that fits into the "bolt" opening got a coat of filling primer and some sanding as well as 2 coats of silver paint**. Inner round part got some brass colored paint (yes, before you ask, that part is actually brass). **Silver paint out of the can is really shiny, and has a bit of a texture. Since the bolt is (in theory) is constantly being used (and oiled) it should not have a sheen, per se. Bryan's design has an actual serial number printed into it (COOL). The photo above is a little out of focus, but the actual plate shows the numbers quite clearly. After the last coat of silver dried I ran my thumb across the paint for a few minutes to get rid of the shine. I used some charcoal dust to fill in the numbers to make them pop and then hit it with a clear coat of matte to seal it. Added the wires that go from the central fuses to the edge of the mounting plate and the capacitors that sit below the rear of the power cylinders. I will add the red cloth covered wire at the end of the power cylinders toward the end of the build. Some references state that the red wires behind the power cylinders were not seen on-screen, but in at least 2 scenes they were (photos 1-2). The first shows a Stunt TK holding his weapon with it present, and the second is from a photo where Luke is holding it, but I believe this to be the same exact weapon.
  12. A bit of an issue here, but I shall persevere.. Since I will be adding in a coiled wire spring, I had to remove the area in the cocking channel. I caaaaarefully used a Dremel with a thin grinding attachment, and it came out OK. Lots of sanding to be done on the inside of the channel to get it flat and smooth still to come. The issue is that this is one of Bryan's "heavy duty" prints. Awesomely super thick to withstand years of trooping, but it had a PVC pipe glued in (pic 1) for even more strength. This obviously narrows the interior, but I though I could drill out the pipe without damaging the printed outside using a 1" drill bit (2). This way, the wire coil would be the correct width. Here's a hint: Don't try this. It worked well the first inch or so (3) but then started to bind up. I stopped there, as I got the feeling it was going to crack. 1 2 3 I will have to make adjustments and do the best I can with this once that time comes. Suggestion: If you do add an interior PVC pipe for added strength, when installing it I would only use it in the center part and stop at the end of the bolt. This will allow you to add a full size spring.
  13. In order to better get to some of the areas of the grip assembly for sanding (blue arrows) I removed the "screw" (yellow arrow) and thankfully they came apart perfectly! Yes, I finished the grip already, lol. This will also help for painting, as I will be using 3 different ones- flat black, gloss black and silver. Still a little sanding to do, but I'm a lot closer. Dry fit The magazine can be difficult to get smooth because of all the tiny crevices, especially those around the clip on the side. I used a cotton swab to apply the Bondo in the ridges and an exacto knife to apply it around the sides, The curved area will get a different treatment to get rid of the print lines.
  14. Oops. should have researched that a little more! Thanks for the heads-up, and it has been changed.
  15. Quick back-story- I saw Kevin's @kmwilson343 3D E-11 sales thread a while back, and having some down time thought it was time for another project. Since I already own an E-11, I figured I could build it and after completion offer it up for auction here** with the proceeds donated to the JDRF (the FISD official charity) on behalf of the FISD. I got in touch and asked if he had a B-grade for sale (I like a challenge) and he said that he had one that was partially built and would be happy to donate it for the cause and send it my way... and he did! (THANKS)! As mentioned, keep in mind that it was partially built and was a work in progress that was interrupted by me, lol, so I am only carrying it forward. I will be adding a few of my own touches, of course. I will not be posting a ton of photos as there are already many great build threads here, but I will be touching on a few areas that can be a pain when working on a 3D build so please feel free to ask any questions or add any comments. ** Once complete, I have Andrew's permission to do this and will be starting a separate thread for the auction. Unfortunately, due to postal regulations I will not be able to send it outside the U.S. All that being said, time to get started! Looking things over As seen in the pic below Kevin has done a lot of the work ahead of time, and since it was designed by Bryan @trooper96 the details and accuracy are phenomenal! It begins I removed the front sight guard, folding stock and end cap/clip and selector switch for better access to the main body. After some extensive sanding, I thought it best to hit it with a coat of fillable primer. Looks pretty good, right? Well, this is why using the primer helps. Although areas can look and even feel smooth, having everything all one color brings out all those little details that may not be visible otherwise. Time for more Bondo spot glazing. To be continued!
  16. It's just the name brand.. they don't contain any actual bleach. Anything that kills germs will work!
  17. Excellent point, Glen. This is also helpful when submitting for EI and Centurion.
  18. Hi Jonatan, and thank you for your submission for ANH Stunt EI! You have been added to the queue and we will be with you as soon as possible!
  19. Here are the measurements for the rivets: Lowe's and Home Depot do not carry these, but you may be able to find them for sale individually at an ACE hardware store if there is one near you. If you don't want to spend $13.40 on Amazon for 90 of them I sell the entire hardware kits for 8 bucks (my cost) which includes tracked shipping. Link here
  20. Really nice job on this, Michael! Are you going for Stunt or Hero? The reason I ask is that this will determine what color the inside if the Hovi tips should be. For Stunt, the interior should be white and is a requirement for Level 2, and the Hero interiors should be black (as it is now) for Level 3. The screens can also be black for Hero. Painting the rims white is a requirement for Level 2 for both costumes. This should take you all of 2 minutes! Stunt Hero Keep those photos rolling in!
  21. Many (if not most) of the items we offer can only be seen once you get your Basic 501st approval (official TK #) and request Legion access here on the FISD. Runs of various merch vary throughout the year, but as Glen said we are limited to the number of items we can offer. Trading cards are indeed a thing and we can help with that when the time comes. These are nice to have to hand out to kids and such during troops. This is the current standard template Or you can design your own
  22. Thank you for your submission, Christine! One of us will be with ya' as soon as possible.
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