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justjoseph63

Deployment Officer[Staff]
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About justjoseph63

  • Rank
    Deployment Officer

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mt. Pleasant, SC
  • Interests
    All things Star Wars, collecting tools, camping, saltwater fishing, and serving the Empire!

FISD Info

  • FISD Service Medals
    4
  • Attache Achievement Award
    1
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20150626
  • EIB Awards
    3
  • FISD Supporter
    Yes
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
    ANH-H
    HWT
  • FISD Kudos
    First FISD Attache Ambassador. ANH S. ANH H. and HWT Centurion

Standard Info

  • Name
    Joseph
  • 501st ID
    10963
  • 501st Unit
    Carolina Garrison
  • Troops Completed
    50

Recent Profile Visitors

9,632 profile views
  1. All Chicago screws are like this. Some have a Philips head on one side, but the slotted type (like you have) are what you need.
  2. I would remove it all, Luke (as seen with the blue arrows below). Any return edge will eventually wear the paint off of your boots from friction. Sanding the edges down super smooth will help prevent that as well.
  3. One last photo, Dani. Please post up a clear, close-up photo of the ab/kidney rivets (no need to suit up). Thanks!!
  4. Nope, not imagining things lol. But normal oil based paint is not meant for porous surfaces or items that flex (like leather).
  5. Good point, Shawn. I would go with the 12.5 size and see how they fit. If they are a bit tight there are products that may help in stretching them if needed like this one on Amazon. If you get them to the "ideal" width, I would suggest using shoe (not boot) stretchers to keep them from shrinking, and installing them after each use,
  6. The folks at RS are experts in fitting armor and will make any necessary adjustments as needed for your height, so not to worry. If there happens to be an issue, their customer service is second to none.
  7. Glad to hear that you are not rushing your build, which often leads to mistakes...My old adage here is "consider it a marathon, and not a sprint". GREAT to know that you are aiming for Centurion , which is where your patience and attention to detail will come into play. Since AM includes all the correct hardware and such, you are way ahead of the game, so now it's just a matter of asking lots of questions when you need to (don't forget the photos) and allowing us to steer you in the right direction. Once you get started, I will be following your build thread and chiming in when asked.... BUT, that comes at a price. When you collect the Imperial candy tax in October some fun-size Butterfingers would be nice . Just kidding, but if you need specific help I am always available via PM.
  8. Probably paint (dye) specifically designed for leather. Oil based paints dry to a "shell" like finish, and would crack as soon as the leather was bent.
  9. It depends on how "screen accurate" you want to be, Jose. The originals were painted Chelsea style boots, and some like the beat-up look of them which I think adds to their charm. However, I think most of us prefer the pre-dyed version from the manufacturer (like IB).
  10. Welcome to the FISD, Shane (and son)! AM is a fantastic set of armor no doubt, and Dave's customer service is second to none. My AM has held up for years without any cracking, splits or yellowing and I couldn't be happier with it. One thing I would highly suggest is to start your own build thread(s) in this section. This way, you can (and are encouraged to) ask all the questions you want to as well as post lots of photos of your progress. Posting photos is especially important when you run across an issue, and we are here to help every step of the way! You are located in Parjai Squad territory in the Florida Garrison, so if you haven't done so already I would join up there and introduce yourself. While you "hurry up and wait", there are a few tutorial links under my name below that may help, especially the one for the supplies you will need. Best of luck to the both of you on your white armor journey!!
  11. Looking SHARP, Darren! That is definitely a Hero bucket, so If that is what you are applying for you don't forget that the holster has 4 rivets instead of 2 like the Stunt style. Also, at some point you may want to raise your belt as well and make sure it's level. Ideally, the top of the ABS portion should ride over the bottom of the large ab-button plate. Here are some reference images for when you get to the point of painting/trimming the ab-button plates: If you have any questions, just ask!
  12. A lot of it will depend on how they fit, Paul. Imperial boots are fantastic, but I've found they tend to run a bit on the small side. I always order a size larger than what I normally wear and use the Dr. Scholl's gel inserts. I also keep a pair of shoe stretchers inside while they are not in use,
  13. AWESOME news, sir! If possible, I would ask a huge favor: Would you consider doing a tutorial (with lots of photos/details) for this? I know it's a lot to ask, but with your mad build skills it would really help out those who will need to do the same thing in the future. If so, it can be posted in this section. Thanks!
  14. Welcome back, Jerome! For the TK footwear, I can highly recommend Imperial boots. They are 100% approvable at all levels and very comfortable. Note that they are made in "waves" (once a month or so) but delivery times are actually quite fast. The next "wave" for ordering starts on July 3rd, info here: https://www.imperialboots.com/ These are the ones to look for: https://www.imperialboots.com/product/421/ One thing I suggest is ordering a size larger than what you normally wear, as they can run a bit small.
  15. Here is a link to some photos which may help, Caleb: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/?do=findComment&comment=673646. One thing I did notice is that the top of the ear on the right side could come forward a bit if possible. Ideally, the screws should line up with the rear line of the trap right above them and the top screw should be centered right below the line, (just as you have on the left side). It may be the photo, but it looks like a gap between the face plate and cap is showing (yellow arrow). Moving the top of the ear just a quarter of an inch forward would eliminate both issues. Neither are huge issues in themselves (and Heaven knows the originals had their flaws lol) but for a more polished and symmetrical look this is something I would suggest if you feel up to the task.
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