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About justjoseph63

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    Executive Officer

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    Davenport, FL.
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    All things Star Wars, collecting tools, camping, saltwater fishing, and serving the Empire!


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    Makaze Squad (FL)

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  1. You can pick up a set of needle files at Lowe's for about 4 bucks. I found these things to be invaluable for detail work- https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-6-Piece-Needle-File-Set/4777067
  2. Please note that those are prospective changes and not set in stone yet, Eric. It would be a good idea to use them as a reference, though, as you will not be "dinged" if you follow them.
  3. WOW! I agree with Cricket 100%, Fabio! Outstanding job on those updates, brother.. One thing that you will be asked to do for level 3 is to remove the weathering from the T-tracks on your blaster. Since the ones used in the films were made of plastic, they would not have any metallic looking finish to them. A few dabs of black paint and you will be good to go, sir! Reference image Vedo presto un distintivo di Fanteria Esperto sotto il tuo nome!
  4. All you need is either Humbrol or Testor's gloss white in the 1/4 oz. size, available at most craft stores or online. Be sure to get the Enamel as opposed to the Acrylic, though.
  5. All you will need is a small paintbrush and you should be fine, Greg. One thing I would recommend before painting the rivets is to sand and then wipe down the heads first, which will allow the paint to adhere better.
  6. If I could make a suggestion, I would order half a size larger than what you normally wear. Imperial Boots are great but run a tad small.
  7. Just as Dan Mentioned, the FISD Galleries section has a ton of references for trimming: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/ Some troopers like to keep return edges in most places, which gives the armor a "thicker" look, but in reality you have to think about comfort. Return edges left too wide or not removed in the wrong places can cause pinching or chafing (armor bite) after an hour or more of having them on. In the films, most of these were removed, as seen in the photos below. The areas I always recommend removing (if nothing else) are the tops of the thighs, tops (and sometimes bottoms) of the biceps, the tops of the forearms and of course the wrist openings of the forearms as Dan showed. If your shoulder bells sit too far away from the chest or flare out, the bottoms of these can be removed as well. If you are thinking about removing any return edges, it is very important to do this before final fitting/gluing. Otherwise, the piece will be too loose if you decide to do it after. Side note: In case you missed it, if you slide the handle of your bin out (not all the way, though) the lift out box sits right inside the opening. This allows you access to it as well as what is inside the main area. The inside lid is also a cool place to mount you favorite patches (I use double sided Velcro).
  8. Hi Andrew! AP includes flat lenses with the helmet kit. As for the lens type, I have a quick question: Are you going for ANH Stunt or Hero? The reason I ask is that I noticed the TK Laser sword (lightsaber) which is used with Hero armor. If you are indeed doing a Hero build and are aiming for Expert Infantry (and above) you will need the bubble style lenses, remove the center ear screws and cover the holes with ABS paste and modify the ear bumps to 3. If you choose to wear the Laser sword for basic approval (and above) you won't need a holster, though! If you are going for ANH Stunt, the flat lenses included with the kit are fine, but don't wear the Laser sword for your approval photos. As for the neck seal, I have always recommended Darman. They are made to order for your specific neck size and the customer service is awesome: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/
  9. It may also have been that Clinton received it by error. He was acting as an "agent" of sorts, but is no longer involved with AM. If anyone has any trouble getting in touch with them, just PM me.
  10. Frank is 100% correct. Here are some Amazon links that may help: Shirt: https://www.amazon.com/Lavento-Compression-Baselayer-Crewneck-Long-Sleeve/dp/B0757MWGZQ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=men+compression+shirt+black&qid=1554888354&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Pants: https://www.amazon.com/Lavento-Compression-Baselayer-Running-Leggings/dp/B075938FY7/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=men+compression+pants+black&qid=1554888471&s=gateway&sr=8-9
  11. Here is the folding stock (outlined in red): This particular one is of the "functioning" type, but the ones that are molded in (Hyperfirm/Praetorian) as Tony mentioned are completely fine all the way to level 3.
  12. You may want to get in touch with @ukswrath. When it comes to electronics, he has a ton of items for sale! Hre is a link that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35211-ukswraths-go-to-thread/
  13. Hi Brian! Unfortunately, you may be limited to what type of kit you can use. The Doopydoos (link below) Hengstler counter is solid resin, but can be hollowed out with a bit lot of work and a Dremel tool and the right bits, and the scope can be hollowed out (to a point) as well. The barrell is also quite thick (but somewhat hollow) and would be more of a challenge. A 3D printed kit may be your best option, but will require a lot of sanding/filling to eliminate the print lines (very important, trust me). Just be sure that there are no obvious on/off switches as seen in the video. Since the electronics are installed in parts that are held on with screws, if it were me I would wait until after you get approved at Centurion to add them. The reason being is that for level 3 we are looking for the "ideal" weapon, and although the additions are definitely cool, they were not seen/used in the original films. You may be a "noob" (I prefer the term "future trooper) but that's what we are here for, so please feel free to ask any and all questions you may have... it's what we do here! https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp
  14. You will also need to get some gray paint (Humbrol # 5 or Testors # 1138) and redo the teeth as shown:
  15. Yeah, it seems that Anovos went from one extreme to the other on the frown paint. They used to carry it all the way into the gum line, and now it's too short! I would grab some Humbrol # 5 or Testors # 1138 gray paint at a hobby shop and re-do them all. Hint: Use a quality, soft bristle brush with a fine tip for painting, especially in the small V on the sides.
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