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About justjoseph63

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    Executive Officer

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    Mt. Pleasant, SC
  • Interests
    All things Star Wars, collecting tools, camping, saltwater fishing, and serving the Empire!


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    First FISD Attache Ambassador. ANH S. ANH H. and HWT Centurion

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    Carolina Garrison

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  1. You have the option of removing some of the return edge from the chest (and back) plate or all of it. Anovos armor is famous for cracking in these areas, as well as the in the neck openings. Whether you opt to remove some or all of it, I suggest adding some inside shims made of scrap ABS in those areas. You can remove all of them and still be screen accurate: (Note lack of return edge on the top of the kidneys as well). Reference images
  2. One thing I would suggest is to fill the pouches with something lightweight like foam board to "fill them out". Otherwise they look sorta' flat. You can even use an old Styrofoam cooler... just use a razor knife to cut it into strips that fill the pouches and them wrap each strip in black electrical tape.
  3. I replaced a ton of parts on my last DD kit with aluminum pieces (including the folding stock, magazine well, front and rear ends, etc,) from a seller on eBay. Everything fit like a glove! https://www.ebay.com/itm/E11-STERLING-REPLICA-BLASTER-STOCK-ASSEMBLY/282798500837?hash=item41d81aabe5:g:MyUAAOSwjIVaT6Z3
  4. So when does the build begin, Glen? I have 50 bucks that says you will have one of these by next year...
  5. Cool! As long as they look like leather you are good to go. Can you provide a link to the source? This could help those who are looking for them. Thanks!
  6. There are 2 things I would suggest, Asjha.. First is to tighten up the shoulder bridge/shoulder bell connection, which will bring it in closer and reduce the gap. Second is to trim off the raised parts of the forearm. You are probably finding that when you bend your arm that those raised edges (in blue) are poking into you, so evening them out would give you a nice gap without having to shorten the actual forearm and also make them more comfortable. Note that many of the "scoops" (the curved part of the opening at the inside top) extended all the way to the edge of the cover strip.
  7. I used the Popit! food storage containers I found on Amazon (about 20 bucks). The set has all the sizes you will need, but you will have few left over to use at home. Just be sure to trim off ALL the raised edges from them. Heavy duty plastic "For Sale" signs are used to close in the backs. If you have any questions, just ask here or feel free to PM me!
  8. Welcome, Don! I would suggest starting a build thread, https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ that way you can ask all the questions you need to and post up lots of photos... (we LOVE photos)! Can you post a pic of the (TK) Caboots? I would like to check them out. Thanks!!
  9. It is not a requirement at any level for HWT, Derek. Yes, they were pictured the game (which this costume is based on) but they were sort of semi-circular in shape. Requiring one like that is impractical, just as wearing one is with the pack as you mentioned. There are a few HWTs who can wear one (mostly taller troopers), but I would omit it.
  10. Absolutely, Ian, and congrats on your TLJ basic approval! As long as it meets the guideline set forth in the CRL for level 2 http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_TLJ you can submit it whenever you like! Here is a link to the thread, just follow the format for the title: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/ You may want to look over Q's (gmphodes) outstanding TLJ EI submission thread here to give an idea of what will be required: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43842-tk85421-requesting-tlj-eib-status-anovos-approved/ Having clear, concise photos will be a huge help. Once you submit, the D.O.s will review your application and make the final approval. Please note that they are volunteers, so this can a few weeks. If you have any questions, feel free to ask! Side note: Work will begin on updating this particular CRL soon. If you get your application in before the new guidelines take effect, you will be "grandfathered in" with the ones that are in place now. BUT.... note that if you (hopefully) choose to submit for Centurion level, you will need to adhere to the requirements in the updated version.
  11. Thanks for sharing, Brendan! I did my first Pride parade in Tampa the day before I moved to SC and it was a blast! I don't think I have ever seen more rainbows in my life. lol. I've done the Weird Al troop before as well. Being the geeky sort of guy I am it was incredible to meet him, but as you mentioned the wait time was crazy!
  12. An SDS blaster would not be my first choice, (it's missing the charging handle and I'm not sure if it has a D-ring). For the same money you could get one from Quest Design, which is a lot more realistic looking: https://www.questdesigncanada.com/collections/frontpage/products/star-wars-stormtrooper-e-11-blaster-prop-replica-stormtrooper-v3 If you want to make it even more screen accurate, I would suggest one of Tino's E-11 finishing kits. They are AWESOME! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/ If you enjoy building things yourself you can also go with a resin Doopydoos kit. Be advised that delivery may take a month or so, but they are awesome and can be customized like crazy. https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp
  13. AWESOME tutorial, A.J.! Pinning this one, brother.
  14. What I use is something I ran across at the Dollar Store. I saw a small thing of women's black eyeshadow(?) and thought "Hey, that could work" so I purchased that and something called a "blush brush" there to apply it with. It stays on really well (although it can smear a bit) but can easily be removed if you want to go shiny white TK with a household cleaner like Fantastic. I touch it up a bit every 6-8 troops and it works perfect.
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