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I feel another video coming on....

Update: I have fixed a few things suggested here, since I have to retake app photos anyway due to the upside down ab buttons. Might as well address it all. Fixed ab buttons Fixed calf cover strip length Evened out the vocoder, and extended the frown to edge past non drilled hole I shortened the shoulder bell strap by 1/2”, which pulls them in nicely. I also shortened my elastic shoulder straps by 1” which pulls my back higher and helps with some of the kidney overlap problem. I also lengthened the back to kidney straps by 1/4” to allow the two pieces to play well together. This and a little heat bending seems to have helped the problem I illustrated above. I’ll see how it is when I get another full test fit on. My shoulder strap bridges were very short and I was worried about if I had to cut off the big box on the back they might not be long enough.-as per the hijacking of this thread- But by shortening the elastic strap, it gives plenty should my GML tell me to cut it off. It also helps the shoulder bells sit better with the torso. I don’t have pics of these last things yet, but look for them when I retake pics later. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's there, just a bit hard to see as it's not much wider than the rest of the strips.

Welcome to your Centurion review Greg and thank you for your application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present and your armour displays all the elements as set out in the Centurion CRL. Congratulations and welcome to Centurion!! Thank you for making the suggested update to the Thermal det screws and a beautiful job on your build Greg. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Nothing more to add other than, excellent work

Gloves are rubber or definitely rubber-like. If I can shorten the strapping between back and kidney and extend strapping between forearm and bicep, that will help hopefully. Tonight’s job, and hopefully better pics. Will also fiddle with the neck seal. Any tips on how to make it stay down flush inside back? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks everyone! I can't even begin to describe how stoked I am about this. Now I need to get out there and show it off.

Technically yes

Approved!!!! Still have a few tweaks I’m working on but nothing major. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Done I like the look of your mannequin, btw. (even though his head is a bit small...)

Name: Martin Philipsen Mølgaard Legion ID: 92527 Forum name: Dainbrandr Garrison: Danish Garrison Armor = Troopermaster Helmet= Troopermaster Blaster= Doopeydoos Canvas belt = Troopermaster Hand Plates = Imperial Warfighters (Rubber) Neck Seal = Trooperbay Holster = Troopermaster Boots: Chelsea boots, self painted Electronics= Aker and Icomm Link to EIB approval (I have adressed the things that were recommended, that I could change) The cover strips on the back have been trimmed since the photo of the back was taken:

Superb, mate. Those gaps at the wrist look much better. [emoji1303] Looks like your back gap is smaller too. Great work!! [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations Trooper! Way to represent! Looking good!

I'm at MCM on Saturday. Come over and say hi mate. Be good to finally meet! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Ooo, they look tasty!! :-)

Just remember, they don't have to look pretty... (no-one sees them and it will not affect approval at any level. I would go at least 20-25 mm wide on the inside strips for the calves.

I found them very useful on my shins as they are constantly opening and closing, I did add everywhere else on my build but it was pretty much overkill, nothing else has moved so far.

First I need to get a troop in. Then fix a few things cause I’m sure there will be tweaking then wait for my wife to agree to take more photos. I think I’ll be able to do EIB quite easy, Centurion will take some more work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You need to swap out those fans mate [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Inner cover strips will provide more strength but is not always needed. At the very least, you will want inner cover strips on the shins (front of course) as this piece gets flexed a lot during dressing and undressing. I found with the AP kit that there is enough cover strip material to put inner cover strips on everything, if desired... and if you didn't scrap too much material (I oops a few). I also put inner cover strips on my thigh pieces as this made it easier for assembly (in my case). I haven't put inner strips on my arms, but probably will since I have the material. Better safe than sorry, right? If you are good about rough sanding the glued surfaces first and you used an adequate amount of E6000 - you should be good with just the outer strip in most cases. Also, note that there is a good and bad side to the cover strip material. One side is whiter and shinier than the other.

Imperial Boots seems to be the popular alternative, but they operate in "waves"...their ordering window for March just closed on 10 Mar, unfortunately.

The easiest for me and I build quite a bit of these, I first glue all the cover strips on all the outer leg and arm parts let dry then glue in the inner parts using strong earth magnets to hold in place and also use tape in areas to avoid part from sliding around while glue sets, the right thigh is a bit more of a challenge because the raised lip is quite crooked, that is why I glue cover strip on the outer right thigh first, just align cover strip at top and bottom don't pay attention to the crooked raised lip which will be hidden by the cover strip. I have seen many people start by gluing both halves togheter by using a inner strip first then glue on the outside cover strip, I actually do the opposite which i find I have more control for adjustments. Mark (AP)

I removed my brackets so I could countersink the screws, so I figured it would be a good time to attach the ab section to the kidney since everything was already taken apart. There's only one thing I dislike more than removing and reattaching bracket screws and nuts. Wanna know what it is? Attaching the kidney/ab split rivets! Just a reminder for you Vertically Challenged Troopers: if you're going for Centurion, be sure to line up the tops of the kidney and ab when you get to this phase of the build. How things are lined up at the bottoms of the kidney/ab won't matter because they're hidden by the belt. Now, with that out of the way, here's how I've lined my ab and kidney up! There's a little flaring going on at the top of the kidney in that photo, and I may still reshape it with some hot water. But everything else is fitting together as it should. Want to see how I've got this so nicely lined up securely like that? Well, first thing is that the split rivets were installed on the opposite side. Duh. I've got the areas around the holes reinforced with an extra strip of ABS for strength on the AB and kidney. Each strip is about 30mm wide and cut to fit the kidney and ab. This area takes a lot of stress and can be prone to cracking, so I want it to be strong from the start. Some people like to use nylon webbing for this connection, but I use elastic. The armor wants to stretch and move around when you wear it. If I use nylon strapping, then the holes take most of the stress and can result in cracks where the split rivets are installed. With elastic, the armor has a little 'give' to it, thus reducing the strain on the holes. I use 1" elastic, and it's doubled up- that is, I use two layers of elastic at these connections. I have never had a connection like this fail on my other set of armor. It's strong and flexible and has worked for me, so that's what I use. Now to the other side... Split rivets installed. I covered the rivets with tape on the outside when I hammered the legs down to prevent excess scratching to the rivet heads. Taping them down also helps keep the rivets in place when setting them. And you want to see how I keep the ab/kidney all nice and stable without a belt? Taaa-daaa! A tab! I can't remember who suggested this to me on my first build (I think it was Jorge?), but it helps keep the armor from shifting around on the right side connection and kind of 'locks' the ab/kidney together. Now I know we all have the Han snap and can use that, but why use that puny connection all by itself? I use both. I made two 1"x1" ABS squares and glued them to the ab: one was glued just below the Han snap, and the other was glued to the ridge above where the cod begins on the ab. Then I made a measurement of the length between the outer ends of both the squares, cut a 1" piece of ABS in that length, and glued it to the squares. That creates a slot for the tab. For the tab itself, I cut a piece of thin black styrene (black because I want it to blend in with my undersuit!) in a rectangle shape. I used .04 thick black styrene for this. I measured the width of the space within the slot and cut it to that size. You want enough length on it for it to have lots of surface to glue it to the kidney, and a few inches extra to go into the slot on the ab. Important! Use e6000 when gluing the tab to the kidney! I can't tell you how many times I've need to make adjustments once things were glued in there- which required removal and reattachment of that tab. You've been warned! And that's it for now. Next, time to channel my inner Thor, get out the hammer, and make some snap plates!

Congrats trooper. I did the same as you. I took my time and made changes along the way. In fact, I still rework strapping and such, to this day. Welcome aboard!

Woohoo!! Congrats!!

Awesome discussion on the rear tab on the shoulder bridge! On this build I say leave it on because it looks proper when fit. Doesn't add un-necessary length to the bridge. As GML of Mountain Garrison I can say Jared makes this process easy! He has maintained a build thread on our board where I have been able to offer advice along the way, he has read and clearly understood the CRL, and he's building with highest accuracy in mind. And now utilization of our new review process! Once final pics are submitted this is an EASY pass at Basic and as I've mentioned to Jared it's qualified to shoot for EIB and Centurion with replacement of the shoes - not perfectly visible in these photos but there are seams in the boot that won't pass higher levels.

You're looking to keep the neck seal tucked into your undersuit? I added snaps inside my undersuit and on the bib. Just put a snap on a small piece of nylon and then sew on to hide the back of the snap.

Congrats trooper and welcome to Centurion!

Ordered one of these yesterday so I'll have it ready when/if the kits ever show up. It was only $16 with free shipping. Thanks for the link!

Looking good trooper! Dropping that forearm armor will probably be more comfortable on your arms and save you from pinching. Good luck on the approvals!

The left leg halves should have a better fit with each other. Disregard the overtrimmed outer half on the left thigh unless that's the look you're going for. The tops of the left shin are wonky as well. Which is why it is believed that the sniper knee was put there: to cover the wonkiness.

Congrats on your approval!

I need a liner for my forthcoming FOTK too. May be time to start a new thread? PS: Could always sell the rest on RPF if you can’t find enough buyers here, although I’m pretty sure you will.

Congrats Jeff, good word of wisdom you gave also. Now get out there and get a troopin.

I wasn't going to set a price point until I knew how usable the 2XL or the XS and SM were. But even if I just put up the remaining Mediums and Larges with the cost divvied between them, it'd still only come to about $13 each. So that's my estimated cost range, depending on usefulness of other sizes -- $3-$13. Have you checked out Scorpion's EXO helmet size chart? I'm on the cusp of M and L, depending on how things fit. So I'd post that whenever I put them up and have people check their head size against your experience, mine, and the size chart before ordering. Worst case, some of the small ones might fit Mando helmets or the underscaled Rubies/Target FOTK for really petite people or younger folks... There are possibilities. So I'll go ahead and snag it.

Congrats, Jeff. Welcome aboard.

Hi, Jonah; Those were the liners I originally used on a few of my kits - they are great liners! I actually found the ear caps to be especially useful for getting a firm fit. I don't actually need any right now myself, but if you were to buy the lot I would definitely buy some off of you as I am sure other troopers would! By my math, each liner would come out to $2.85 (total cost divided by 42), but I'd be happy to pay at least $10 per liner which is still significantly less than Amazon. Great find!

Congrats trooper! Now the real fun begins!

Congrats trooper and welcome to the ranks

Yeah! Congrats Greg!

Congrats trooper! I recently finished my anovos stunt as well.

Congratulations Trooper! Have fun out there!

Congrats! Nice work. I'll be referring back to your pics frequently.

Thanks for the input you guys. I’m currently applying all of your suggestions and getting my pictures up soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats trooper

Wohoo! Congrats Greg

I didn't buy from the Anovos booth because we're getting a better deal from our group order. I did take a look at the Anovos TLJ helmet at the booth, it looks fine to me. Much improved over the TFA helmet they did, which I own one of. I'm not using my Anovos TFA helmet for this build because I got it signed, so it's no longer wearable. The 6 Anovos helmets you could use for this build are: TLJ Premier - Fiberglass, $550 TLJ Executioner Premier - Fiberglass, $600 TFA Premier - NO LONGER AVAILABLE TFA Standard - NO LONGER AVAILABLE TLJ Standard - NO LONGER AVAILABLE TLJ Executioner Standard - NO LONGER AVAILABLE

All limbs and torso are 120 each. Belt is 100. They all come with cover strips . Arms come with hand plates. Legs I believe came with knee ammo packs and so forth. Now let's see if they can ship the parts out in less than a year.

How about vests. Funny story, most of my family members are Disney freaks and most of them have a vest. I told everyone "That's lame I'll never do that". I now have 5 vests and counting lol

When I joined the legion I told myself I wasn't going to collect coins or pins. Since that time I've collected around 20 coins (although several of them were bought by my wife who is also in the legion). Rather than have them sit in a drawer I wanted to display them, so I got a display box and put it on the wall. I still keep a coin in my wallet and another in my helmet, always ready for that challenge.

OK, I have a question. How do the bottom corner and sides attach? Is it a clamshelled using Velcro or left open and held together using elastic?