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Everything posted by CableGuy

  1. Nice work, Adam. That’s an E-11 to be proud of. [emoji2956][emoji2956][emoji2956][emoji122]
  2. This is very sad news, especially at such a young age. There are some wonderful things said about him above. I did not have any communication with Terrell, but he clearly made a positive impression on many within the community. Buckets off. :-(
  3. Here’s some examples from ANH that highlight the alignment when worn. This appears to be based on the positioning of the elastics within the bicep and forearm. This is probably the video in question. As always with original trilogy armour, not every suit will be the same. However, there are usually very clear patterns where a majority of suits support a certain feature.
  4. Getting there. :-) As you say, the eyes are the main concern at the moment as they are too far apart. The teeth are possible a little shallow, too. Sounds like you’ve got the updates planned though. Hard to be sure of anything else due to the fisheye effect (as the camera was quite close) but overall it’s looking solid. Keep up the good work, Chris.
  5. Hey trooper, Yes, the ears are always a pain in the bum. ;-) As Glen mentioned, the bottom of the ear don’t always sit flush, however the s-trim can partly cover this. Here’s my latest RS build - the left ear is aligned to match the rear line of the trap (as per most screen used helmets), yet there is still a gap at the bottom. More photos and discussion here, if you fancy a look.
  6. Hiya, Yes, I’ve used both Green Stuff and Milliput in the past, both work really well. It starts soft and allows you to shape it to the parts, then dries hard ready for sanding. Dan
  7. Hi Rodney, I used a drill bit that was almost the same size as the resin “hex screw” that goes into the bottom of the grip. Then, after painting, I glued the hex screw/bolt into the grip. Here’s the relevant part from the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?do=findComment&comment=414148 Are you referring to this Blaster Reference for ideas?
  8. Welcome aboard, Millssy. [emoji1309] I’m not familiar with that costume, (I’m an old school Original Trilogy guy), but I’m sure there are some knowledgable folks ready to help you. As you’re in the UK, head over to www.ukgarrison.co.uk and sign up to the forum. The team will be happy to guide your through your build and get you ready for clearance. Best wishes Dan /CableGuy
  9. Many congratulations, Glen. Another fine costume. [emoji2956][emoji1303]
  10. Hi folks, I’ve reworked the weathering a little and added the white lettering to the M38 scope. With that in mind, I just HAD to take some new, swanky photos and share them with you all. For anyone that wants to learn a little more about the processes involved, and to see more photos of the finished blaster, here’s a new video: Thanks for stopping by. Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. :-) Dan
  11. Ooo, can’t wait to see your build, Tino. [emoji16]
  12. Go for it, Glen. It certainly gets my approval. :-). (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/50841-build-log-the-new-jmc-e-11-from-troopacoola/)
  13. POST 15 Daniel Branton / CableGuy UK Garrison TK42911 Selected photos credit Wayne Allen 1. 2. 3. 4.
  14. Welcome to the FISD, Colin. :-) Regarding EIB and Centurion, go for it. Once you are branded at your induction you’ll get your UKG shoulder brand. The shoulder branding is not allowed for EIB and Centurion applications, so you’re at the perfect time to apply now. :-)
  15. Super stuff, Chris. That slight angle on the brow makes a big difference (to my eyes). The only other thing that, to me, is still not right is the frown/teeth. To my eyes, the holes are too big and there is not enough depth to the cutouts. (Also, don’t forget that the 5th hole either side was very rarely cut out on screen. Only up to 4 holes per side). Apologies for the poor quality of the below, but, hopefully it illustrates my thoughts. Blue line shows roughly where the holes should stop. Notice on the reference photos that the helmet has depth beyond the teeth. Here is a very crude mock up of how the teeth could be bigger in places making the holes smaller.
  16. Hi Tim, I’d certainly avoid trying to put it in your helmet. They are very loud and I’m pretty sure you’d do some damage to your hearing. Personally, I put mine around my neck and it sits behind the chest plate. To me, this is ideal. I bought my TRamp and went with the remote. Thing is, apart from playing around with it when I opened the box, I’ve never used it. Not once. Reason being, the loops and samples can be very restrictive on a troop. If a child asks you a question, answering with a sample Is unlikely to make sense. For me, I try to act the character and interact with people on a case by case basis. Here’s my thoughts on voice acting and using tramp; Here, you’ll see me kitting up and wearing the tramp unit around my neck; Hope this helps. :-)
  17. Hi Chris, Had some time to do some side by sides. Here’s my feedback. :-) Basis side by side; Brow line; Whilst the rubber trim plays a small part here, the actual “cap” has a slight rise when it passes the ear cap. The line runs from the back to the front, then takes a slight upward angle beyond the ear. Also, from your left side image, the line from the rear of the helmet doesn’t carry on to the brow - it seems to be offset. Ear caps: They appear to be quite a bit thicker than the originals. The grey rectangular part on the left ear appears to be at the wrong angle. (See bottom right image). Also note the screws/ear caps usually line up with the rear line of the trap. It looks like the rear “tube” is not quite as curved as the originals. Note the flow of the original tubes from front to back. The below difference might be purely down to the ear thickness and alignment. Hope that helps. :-)
  18. Hey Chris, Looks like a good step up on the previous version. More organic, for sure. Main things for me would be as below; Frown height and shape of the teeth/size of the cutouts don’t look right to my eyes. Also, the furthest edges seem to droop down. Traps and tears; As below, the traps and tears look quite “squared”. These could be softer curves for more ANH appearance. Brow line on ANH usually raises up a touch. If you have pictures of your design from side on, I’ll highlight it. Ears are also quite “squared” compared with original trilogy. Hope that helps. Nice progress from version one. Looking much more OT and less R1. [emoji1303]
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