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troopermaster

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About troopermaster

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    Grand Moff

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    troopermaster421@gmail.com
  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/TMProps/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom

FISD Info

  • FISD Achievement Medals
    1
  • FISD Kudos
    Expert Armourer

Standard Info

  • Name
    Paul

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  1. How do the bridges come from RS out of the box? Remember that Anovos is a cleaned up recast of RS - that I am 100% sure of. The Anovos bridges in the photo you posted is showing the backside and they look almost the same, just sharper, which is typical of all Anovos parts.
  2. Maybe so, but that face plate is not Anovos and the shoulder bridges are very soft. Could actually be an RS. I'd have to see more parts to have a better chance of positively identifying the maker of the kit. Either way, building it is the same no matter who made it.
  3. It's definitely not Anovos. It's an RS recast - most likely a TE, but there are so many recasters out there making armour that it's hard to say for sure.
  4. All ANH helmets are held together with 4 rivets. 1 on each side behind the ear caps and 1 on each side at the base of the ear caps, as in the photo posted above.
  5. You need 7 single cap/tubular rivets so they will have sent 1 spare. 3 for the plastic ammo belt to canvas, 2 for the thigh ammo strap and 2 for the drop boxes (1 each). No washers were used on the original armour.
  6. I have a pair of ESB hand guards available in the same ABS Anovos uses.
  7. Option 2 is the right way to go. The parts may not line up correctly but that's just how it is. I'm not sure who made your armour but it looks like either RS or Anovos (both same moulds) and the original RS armour had identical shins made up of 2 x left outer parts and 2 x right outer parts. Rob (of RS) made some inner parts by reshaping casts from the outer parts and these are the ones you have paired together currently as the left shin with sniper knee plate attached. Your right shin is made of the correctly shaped outer parts, so swap your right inner over to your left outer and that's the way they should be paired up.
  8. I don't know why you FISD staff always focus on the sides of the knee plate lining up with the ridges on the sides of the shin, making the front pate stick inwards towards your knee. It's madness. The ends of the knee plate should blend into the shin top ridge as best you can - not follow the angle. More importantly is the front of the knee plate is glued flat to your shin - not angled. I know some knee armour can be tricky to fit but it's simple when you don't have to incorrectly follow the angle of the top of the shins with the knee plate. Red line - bad. Blue line - good. Real deal.
  9. WOW! If you don't know the difference between an ANH and ROTJ detonator by now, I would refrain from commenting. Both detonators Glen posted are ANH and are the same one, except one photo was taken when it had paint on and the other with paint removed, but both are 100% ANH. This is an ROTJ for your future reference. Let me know if you need more help identifying any trooper parts
  10. Mark's right. The heat created by drilling out the rivet will melt the plastic if not done slowly and leave a hole the size of the rivet head. I prefer to use a large drill bit and drill into the rivet head in stages, meaning drill for a short while then let the rivet cool, then repeat until the head comes off. You don't want to drill right through the rivet - just take the head off and the rivet will come out the other side.
  11. If you do the scaling, the rivets vary between 30mm to 40mm away from the end of the ammo belt. That's 1 3/16" to 1 37/64" in your language
  12. Drill a bit, let it cool, Drill again, let it cool. Drill again and out it comes without melting.
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