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troopermaster

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About troopermaster

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    Grand Moff

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    troopermaster421@gmail.com
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    https://www.facebook.com/TMProps/

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    United Kingdom

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    Expert Armourer

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  • Name
    Paul

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  1. No, that's not how it works. You would only cut out the neckline of the chest plate if you was short. This allows the chest to sit lower and not dig into your neck. If you're tall, you will have no real adjustment between the armour parts, just over your shoulders so the gap would be bigger between your chest and back plate to allow your tall body to fit inside. I do all the fine trimming with a Dremel grinding stone then scrape off the swarf with a blade and finish with fine sand paper.
  2. The back torso parts only go together one way with each part butting up against each other. I always leave a small gap between the parts to allow them to move as you walk but essentially they are butted up. The shoulder area and chest overlap are where the adjustments can be made. At your height you are pretty much maxing out the size, so when you strap the chest using the original strapping brackets, you don't really have any adjustment there. Your main adjustment will be the white elastic shoulder strap length. You will find the armour feels much better when you have strapped it with elastic. Taping it together is fine to get a basic feel for the armour but it doesn't allow any movement like elastic does. I don't quite understand your concern about the return edges. Just leave enough to attach the brackets (7-8mm) and a few mm's everywhere else.
  3. E6000 should do the job so make sure you apply a thick bead of glue and clamp it for a good 24 hours (48 is better) It looks as though the thighs are still curved where the joints are that may be making gluing the flat strips difficult. You can add reinforcing strips to the lower ridge (rear knee) to make it secure. Trimming the ends of your joining strips should always be done prior to gluing. It just makes it so much easier but I don't think it's a requirement? Some of the original armour strips were squared off.
  4. I'm not exactly sure but it's easily 3-4" wide at the top. I will use whatever size is needed to make sure the thighs fit the wearer. I would rather use a wider strips to fill the gaps than go to the extremes of shimming and filling that never looks quite right to me.
  5. M3 black pan head slotted machine screws.
  6. You don't need to do any how water treatment to the forearms. They are supposed to be oval shaped. I would completely remove all of the return edge on the inner half of the forearms on the elbow swoop. With regards to the joining strip edges not being straight, that's exactly how the originals are and the best way to get the edges cut is to simply lay your joining strip onto the armour, mark the half way point of the strip onto the armour on both ends, then draw a line between the two marks and trim. Now you know for sure your strips will fit onto the armour without any problems. It's quite normal to have some of the joining edge showing under the strips so try not to be too critical.
  7. There's a big difference, actually. While the principle of using nylon webbing may sound more practical, it gives zero stretch and limits your movement in armour. Not only that, the zero stretch means it will pop your snaps or crack your armour when you move around too much. I know some people use webbing exclusively but I would strongly advise against it and use elastic instead. If you use quality elastic it will last a long time and if you have to swap it out eventually, so be it.
  8. I made something very similar many years ago and it worked extremely well. I went one further and added straps to hold up my arms. This relieved stress on my shoulder bells and there was no gap between my bells and chest plate. I used 2" elastic for the braces/suspenders and arms, and 3" elastic for the thighs. Elastic works much better for strapping in my opinion.
  9. You are correct. The end cap is not fully pushed on in the photo which makes the detonator look slightly longer than it is. 184mm is the correct length but a few mm's either way should be good.
  10. It looks like you have over trimmed the top half of your right forearm. The flat joining edge on the top looks to have gone completely, so there is nowhere to get a good fix for your joining strips now. It looks like you have trimmed to the red line in this photo instead of the blue line. Am I right?
  11. I think you might have misunderstood what I said. I mean using too much glue and too much clamping force together (a combination of the two) is what can cause deformation. I have not seen E6000 cause any problems on it's own but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen, especially with fake glue that's going around.
  12. E6000 can deform ABS if too much glue has been applied and if using excessive clamping force while curing.
  13. I can definitely help you out with an exact replica, including all the correct hardware and strapping used in Luke's armour. Here is one of my hero's I built to movie specs (not a Luke replica).
  14. The left forearm on the RS is not cast from their original armour. It was sculpted by Rob, as was the left bicep too. Just an FYI
  15. I think there's only one version with 4 rivets after looking closer. It looks as though there are 2 rivets on the left strap and 1 on the right, but most likely the 4th rivet is fitted on an angle and hidden by the detonator. I'll see if I have any better photos to confirm.
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