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troopermaster

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About troopermaster

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    Grand Moff

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    troopermaster421@gmail.com
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    https://www.facebook.com/TMProps/

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    United Kingdom

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    Expert Armourer

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  • Name
    Paul

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  1. That's really unfair, in my opinion! Lots of folk want to achieve Centurion with their armour and some types of plastics don't work well with the paste. I think if you do a neat job like Kman has done here, that should be more than good enough.
  2. Make sure to leave the helmet alone for a few days to allow the paint to cure properly before you start the detailing. I know it's hard but it will be worth it in the end.
  3. That depends on your height. The original ANH shins were not the same length left and right, with the smaller left shin having the sniper knee plate attached, so you won't really notice the difference. That is unless they are much different in length, not just 10mm or so. I have never handled a WTF kit before so I really don;t know how long they are.
  4. This is how they are supposed to be assembled according to the original ANH armour.
  5. That's exactly the way I believe the original helmets were painted and evidence proves it. No masking of the eyes or teeth. Just focus on spraying the outside of the helmet and don't worry about any overspray on the inside. Overspray can be seen on the inside the original helmets so that's something you want, ideally. If you're going for an aged look then go for an off-white gloss spray rather than bright white. Good luck
  6. ROTJ belts are made from 57mm poly webbing, not canvas, and that equals approximately 2 1/4" wide. You might want to update the CRL.
  7. I measured my bells earlier today for what it's worth. They were 305mm long and 300mm around the lower edge. They do curve nicely. Here are some photos I took a while back that might help you.
  8. You got them on correctly. It will be a case of trimming them with the curve and maybe a slight alteration of the strapping. One thing to note is that the bells will be pulled down now the arms are connected, so have the top bell strap with the snap really short to allow for some stretch. The original bells were free from the arms so nothing pulled on them and it's a bit harder to achieve the same look when the arms are connected, but it's not impossible
  9. Do you have the shoulder bells on the correct sides? They look wider from the rear view than the front so you might want to swap them over? Daniel is right about trimming the bells curved. You can see your bells look straight. They should follow the contours of your chest and back plates ideally.
  10. I measure the gap on the inner swoop of the forearms. This will guarantee you have the same gap that you might not achieve when measuring the outside gap. Another thing you might not have considered is having the inner forearm length the same. If you measure up from the wrist to the lowest part of the inner swoop it should be approximately 22cms, then you can have a 4cm gap between the bicep and swoop. This is how I assemble my kits anyway. Again, the biceps should be strapped from the bells and sit inside the bells about half way when they are not worn. One thing that might be causing your bells to slip above your biceps is the RS bells are quite narrow and if the lower end of the bells are not as wide as your biceps, they will naturally want to creep above them.
  11. As you 'should' know the biceps were not connected to the shoulder bells on the original armour so they will slide down like in the photo. You can clearly see gaps between the biceps and bells. Plus the actors were small, like 5' 8" or less, so even when the arms were pulled up they may appear to have little to no wrist gap. So again, the elbow joint and comfort should be the priority. Over and out
  12. It is irrelevant. Who cares about wrist gap? So what if you have it? Honestly, would you rather have your inner elbow pinched to heck just so you don't have some gap at your wrist when you have your arms down? Seriously?
  13. The CRL need to be rewritten. The original knee plates didn't follow the tops of the shins exactly and it's asking a lot to do so. I think you should just get them on as neat as possible, regardless if they slope one way or the other, they should just look neat. I remember one of my guys cutting his shin plate because it was mentioned his knee plate didn't follow the shin. It was an extreme measure but that's the lengths some people will go to in order to fit in. I think Pam's knee plate looks spot on now
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