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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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  • Birthday March 2

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    Peachtree City, GA
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    First Female Centurion in Garrison

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    Georgia Garrison

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  1. Also, if you've purchased the FOTK files from CGTrader, I asked the designer to rebuild his holster so it could be made functional. He has redesigned the holster so it should be functional now. I haven't printed them, but they look pretty good. It might be worth a look over there to download the updates!
  2. I had no problems at all with the ab section files. I printed at .3 height, 3 walls, 20% infill using a .4 nozzle. The parts are very strong and glued together quite easily (printed in 4 parts as well). What print settings are you using? Do you have pics? Not entirely sure what you're asking here? Suspenders are attached with snaps inside the ab. Male snap plates are glued inside the ab with e6000. I also have quick connect buckles attached on the suspenders (redundancy) in the front. Let me know if you'd like pics or need more of an explanation. The shins are attached with wide white elastic glued to the inside of one half of the shins. They are attached with e6000 on the outer halves... they open kind of like a clamshell. I used wide elastic to allow for a little flexibility while opening them, but not much. So for the left shin, to put it on, the shin halves open on the INSIDE, they are permanently closed on the outer side (the side of the shin that is most visible). For the closure, I used loop velcro stuck to the inside of the shin, and sewed black 1" elastic straps with hook velcro tabs on either end. There are two of these, one that attaches on the inside at the top, and one that attaches on the inside at the bottom. Yeah, the files aren't listed as a FOTK holster. I posted a Make so I could remember where the files are located. Here ya go! https://www.thingiverse.com/make:845162
  3. I said it would be converted in a few months. Well, other projects got in the way, and life, too... so it actually took a little over 2 years to complete, but this kit is now officially a Sandtrooper! Time to go find some droids!
  4. Thank you!!! I've learned a lot during this build. Lots of work for sure, but totally worth it. Thanks! Yeah, but at least I can reprint individual parts as he grows. And then when he outgrows all the parts, I can sell his old kit, and he'll still have a kit of his own. (College fund!!!)
  5. The best way to store armor is not in a bin, but on a mannequin. So today I built Cameron a PVC mannequin so he can admire his armor even though he can't troop in it (for now). Took less than 30 minutes to build it, and cost less than $20 for materials. The mannequin torso is a little longer than Cameron's torso (the chest sits higher on the mannequin than on Cameron), but it still works to hold the armor pretty well. Looking forward to getting pics of Cameron in his kit soon! And it's very clear to me now that this build is DONE. Thanks for the help, support, encouragement, and for coming along for the ride!
  6. Ah, that's a good question. You kind of have to go with what looks correct on the model. For me, this involved a LOT of staring at suits from the movie and adjusting the parts until they looked about right. Take a look at where the tops of the curved detail on the ab is relative to the wearer. Aim for that, then build the rest of the armor around that placement. I'd say that you don't want the top of the ab cutting into the middle of your chest- that would be much too tall. Maybe start with putting the top of the ab somewhere near the bottom of your sternum and adjust things from there. Does that help? And back to the build... I painted everything last weekend, so I've been waiting for the 2K Gloss to fully cure this week before proceeding any further. And I've been working on finishing up my TK to TD conversion so that's had me a little distracted, too. Thankfully, I finished everything on the Sandtrooper armor last weekend, and I'm just about finished with my Sandtrooper backpack this weekend, so now I can get 100% focused back on finishing Cameron's kit! I glued the forearm boxes onto the new forearms, so that's curing right now (I forgot to take pics). And I added snaps to the new TLJ cod. Just need to get the black details on the forearms and ab boxes, and his kit will be done! Ooh, shiny new cod.... Hoping to get pics of Cameron in his full kit (with TFA helmet) next weekend for Galactic Academy approval. We'll be taking pics for my Sandtrooper submission as well. It's nice to have things to look forward to, especially with so many things that we still can't do.
  7. Hey Sean! Yep, I used ArmorSmith to scale everything down to fit him. For placement of armor parts, I used the CRL pic of the full-body FOTK and screen images as my references as well as studying FOTK Centurion pics. I studied how everything lines up relative to the trooper's body. For example, the bottom of the chest plate ends roughly at where the elbows bend. That was where I started, followed by hours of looking at finished kits. In ArmorSmith, I put the chest and back plates on the avatar all at once, and scaled them pretty much at the same time. They fit together. In ArmorSmith, you can color code each piece as well as change the opacity of the parts. I put the opacity at 50% and each piece had a different color. You will be able to see when parts intersect/overlap with each other or with the avatar as you move them around the avatar. You will also see how much gap you can make between your avatar and the armor part (always allow for gasket thickness!). I spent a few hours just manipulating the parts around on the avatar until I got them just right to my liking. Parts were not all scaled the same on the same axis, which was a surprise to me. For example, my son's chest/back were scaled (XYZ) at 76%, 80%, and 75%, but the ab/butt/cod were scaled at 76%, 80%, and 73%. The forearms are scaled differently, as are the shins and spats. Heads up: the spats need to be scaled up to properly fit the shins. The designer thickened the shins to repair the thin walls, but didn't compensate for this by correcting the spats to fit. I've had to add an additional 3% on the X and Y for the spat to fit correctly. Good luck with your build!
  8. Since I was reprinting larger forearms, I decided to also print out a larger set of shins while I was at it. The current shins fit fine for now, but I can tell that those are going to be the next parts that the boy will eventually grow out of. My plan is to have a batch of parts ready to paint so I can maximize use of the expensive 2K Gloss. I also printed out a new cod that reflects the TLJ cod much better. Here is some of that batch of parts, all spot puttied up. I love how nicely spot putty wet-sands, so I coat it all over when I can. Ignore the Sandtrooper backpack greeblies. I'm working on that as well (it's for my eternally slow RS Sandtrooper conversion!). This morning I remembered that Germain mentioned something about the TLJ forearm cut (TLJ pic on the right). I figured that now's the time to take care of that detail! I penciled in the cut line at the top of the forearm where it looked like the cut should go. Then lopped it off with a cutoff wheel and smoothed out the edge with some sandpaper. Pretty easy mod to add a little accuracy. It's raining today, so no painting. Tomorrow looks like the sun will be out though... fingers crossed that I can get everything painted soon.
  9. Hey Michael! Good choice of the RS armor! You will be very happy with it. I've built three RS suits and have never been disappointed in the quality of their stuff (and with the customer service as well!). The Georgia Garrison is full of an amazing group of passionate and fun troopers. You will find no shortage of people who will be very excited to assist you get your armor up to snuff. Looking forward to seeing your build come together!
  10. So, I was having the boy try things on yesterday, and suddenly Cameron began complaining that the forearms were too tight around the wrist. Wait, whaaa??? They weren't too tight before! OMG, nooooooooo..... I Dremeled the insides of the wrist to open them up, but there really wasn't much to be removed. Cameron was gracious about the little bit of modding I did to the forearms by saying, "It's fine, Mom, really. It won't hurt that much. It'll look fine. I can take it." He was being really sweet because he knew how much work went into everything so far, and he didn't want me to have to make even more parts. I explained to him that the good thing about having a 3D printer is that we can make new parts as he grows, and I had expected this to happen. Welp, I knew it was bound to happen sooner or later... the boy needs larger forearms now- even before his first troop. Okaaaay, so those parts won't just magically appear themselves! I turned on the printer, scaled a larger forearm, resliced the file, and am currently reprinting new (larger) forearms and forearm greeblies. The old scale was 76, 76, 73, and the new scale is 78, 80, 73 to allow for a wider (and slightly more oval) opening at the wrist for more comfort. I printed out a test wrist piece first to verify the X and Y would be large enough, but not too big. Each forearm takes about 12 hours to print and the greeblies will take another 8 or so. Nice thing is that the forearms print all in one piece, so sanding and painting will be fairly easy. Time to buy some more 2K Gloss!
  11. Welcome Kaitlin! I've sized down a WTF kit to fit a 4'11" garrison friend, so you can rest assured that the WTF armor can be modded to fit your height for sure. You've got this! How tall are you? Post lots of pics, ask tons of questions, and don't let the build scare you. We're here for you. Jump in and have fun!
  12. Okay, let's talk SPATS. I mentioned earlier that I was working on assembling the spats, and now I can safely say that I am done! Here's my own take on these: First, I had to cut the file so the back seam and buckle part could be completely detached from the front part of the spat and still remain in one piece. A little time in Meshmixer took care of this easily. Next, I had to figure out how to attach the spat together, allow it to open, and still remain fixed to the shin. I read recently that the screen used suits closed using a snap popper and velcro, and the front half was attached to the shin with VHB tape. I decided to emulate this with some changes. If you've followed my magnetic shin mods for my TK builds, you can guess that it didn't take much for me to realize that a magnet would work perfectly in this application instead of a snap. I had an assortment of N52 magnets on hand, so I picked out something small that would fit nicely and still remain hidden. Here you can see the hole I drilled for the magnet. I made sure that the magnet would fit through the hole without any issues. It's a go! Next I made a few magnet buttons (one for each spat). I cleaned off the extra E6000 later. While the glue cured on the buttons, I made a mark for where the opposing magnet needed to be glued on the outer part of the spat. Here you can see the pencil mark where the opposite magnet will go. I used some blue tape to make sure that the spat was lined up well, then glued the magnet on the outer half of the spat. Here you can see how it fits inside the hole. And how it looks when it is open. I made sure to clean up the excess glue from around the magnet to ensure a tight closure. Here are the magnet buttons fully cured. I trimmed the extra plastic around them to make sure they fit nicely in the inner part of the spat. Inside button glued in place. Outside view so you can see how tightly the closure connects. Additional view of the installed magnets. The magnets stay locked with the magnetic attraction and the physical lock of the opposite magnet being seated inside the hole of the spat. Additional views: Next I took some VHB tape I had on hand to attach the spat to the shin. I stuck some leftover Velcro tape vellum to on the tape to make the VHB tape easier to work with while trimming. Stuck on. This is just a temporary test fit for now, which is why the segment is short. I then attached loop velcro to the spat and sewed some elastics with hook velcro for closures. Spat stuck on and it looks good to me! Back view of the half-assembled spat. The boots I bought for Cameron didn't work out (not at all like in the pics in the eBay listing!), so I picked up some leather-like Vans that will work well for him. I still need to paint the bottoms rubber black. I had Cameron try on the shoes and shin with the spat in place. Here you can see how the spat fits. The spat is only attached to the shin at the front, allowing flex of the two halves for the foot to go in the shin part. You can see the flap of elastic and velcro on the right. That will secure the spat and allow for a little flex if needed. The elastic flap allows for a hinge-type closure, with the magnet locking the halves together. Closed and easily locks. Magnets FTW! All together now! Ideally, I should have left the VHB tape alone for several hours before attempting to mess with it. I found it came off pretty easily once we removed the shin. This might also be because the 2K gloss is really slick stuff, and I think most tape adhesives would have a tough time sticking on it. I think a good solution to adhere the front of the spat to the shin would be to simply glue it there with E6000 and let it cure for a few days. That will be my next step for these. Overall, I'm pretty happy with my spat solution now. I'm still adjusting strapping and gaskets, so work now can proceed on other areas to take me to the finish line.
  13. Congrats on your BBB day and your shiny white FOTK kit! Looking forward to watching your progress on this. I know @shashachu has been slowly working on her FOTK for a while- she's on the smaller size as well. You're definitely in the right place to get your build going! And welcome to the Georgia Garrison!
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