Jump to content


Imperial Attaché[TK]
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won



About Cricket

  • Rank
  • Birthday March 2

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Peachtree City, GA
  • Interests


  • Attache Achievement Award
  • 3D Contributor Award
  • Centurion Granted Date
  • EIB Awards
  • FISD Supporter
  • EIB Cohorts
  • FISD Kudos
    First Female Centurion in Garrison

Standard Info

  • Name
  • 501st ID
  • 501st Unit
    Georgia Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

3,459 profile views
  1. Rather than experimenting blindly with your bell cuts, why not try something easier? The entire suit is made to fit together. For example, the tops of the thighs should follow the lines of the cod. For EIB/Centurion, one of the requirements for the bell/chest relationship is that there is minimal black showing. Take a look again at the reference pic below: For the kits I've built, I figured out how to trim the bell and achieve minimal black space by noting the relationship to the chest plate while it is on the person it is built for. It's easier to do this if you have an assistan
  2. Overall, you're looking pretty sharp there, trooper! Good work! My suggestion to make your armor look a little bit better would be to bring in those shoulder bells a bit. You've got that "linebacker trooper" look. It's nothing that'll stop you from basic approval, but it might get a mention if you plan on applying for your EIB or Centurion awards. As they are now, they're somewhat square. Note how the shoulder bells on these troopers taper inwards. Bells are usually trimmed with a curve (or swoop) to them, not straight up and down (square). Note the cut lines on the
  3. Finally got around to taking some proper photos of Cameron fully suited up in his armor today! This trooper Mom approves. Took it out for a stroll in our neighborhood. Because fall, y'all! Cameron reports that the kit is comfortable and totally troopable! Looking forward to when we can get out and do our thing again. Stay safe!
  4. Yep! I have another RS Hero, though. Always gotta keep a shiny white on hand!
  5. From what I'm seeing on the holster I built, the bearing acts as a stopper of sorts. It supports the blaster and prevents the blaster from rotating forward when locking it into the holster. I could be wrong on this, though (I don't have the holster nearby to double check this!). And by adding an extra dimensional element, it looks kind of cool, too.
  6. I'm not entirely sure, sorry. My guess is that having 3 layers allows you to put some extra reinforcement in there. I wouldn't use the holster with just the 3D printed layers alone. I can only imagine someone bumping against you and the blaster snapping off of the holster... and it would be difficult to even notice it was snapped off at all if your helmet is on. Having some metal installed in the bracket adds a bit of strength so that this kind of scenario won't be as likely to happen. This is the image I used for reference. For length, I don't remember exactly what I
  7. The snaps in the pic look like the typical line 24 snaps that we use on TK builds. That's what I would use. Look for Tandy brand. They attach with a hammer. You'll need a fastener kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-1265-Fastener-Fasteners/dp/B00004T7VT Or if you prefer to use a little less force for a little more money, you can invest in a snap press. It is my second favorite build tool (the Dremel is my #1 tool!). https://www.goldstartool.com/heavy-duty-press-for-grommets-snaps-buttons-rivets-1-die-set.htm
  8. Nope. The chest plate has a slight overlap over the "vest" part of the back/yoke part. I secured the chest plate with industrial velcro at the overlap in the chest area as well as at the side areas where the chest and back plates overlap. It keeps things really secure, but I don't like having to readjust everything each time Cameron suits up. In hindsight (and possibly for future builds), I will probably do this approach: creating a strap across the front part of the back plate that allows for the chest to be secured with snaps. The photo isn't mine, but I like the idea. I think stron
  9. Also, if you've purchased the FOTK files from CGTrader, I asked the designer to rebuild his holster so it could be made functional. He has redesigned the holster so it should be functional now. I haven't printed them, but they look pretty good. It might be worth a look over there to download the updates!
  10. I had no problems at all with the ab section files. I printed at .3 height, 3 walls, 20% infill using a .4 nozzle. The parts are very strong and glued together quite easily (printed in 4 parts as well). What print settings are you using? Do you have pics? Not entirely sure what you're asking here? Suspenders are attached with snaps inside the ab. Male snap plates are glued inside the ab with e6000. I also have quick connect buckles attached on the suspenders (redundancy) in the front. Let me know if you'd like pics or need more of an explanation. The shins are attached
  11. I said it would be converted in a few months. Well, other projects got in the way, and life, too... so it actually took a little over 2 years to complete, but this kit is now officially a Sandtrooper! Time to go find some droids!
  12. Thank you!!! I've learned a lot during this build. Lots of work for sure, but totally worth it. Thanks! Yeah, but at least I can reprint individual parts as he grows. And then when he outgrows all the parts, I can sell his old kit, and he'll still have a kit of his own. (College fund!!!)
  13. The best way to store armor is not in a bin, but on a mannequin. So today I built Cameron a PVC mannequin so he can admire his armor even though he can't troop in it (for now). Took less than 30 minutes to build it, and cost less than $20 for materials. The mannequin torso is a little longer than Cameron's torso (the chest sits higher on the mannequin than on Cameron), but it still works to hold the armor pretty well. Looking forward to getting pics of Cameron in his kit soon! And it's very clear to me now that this build is DONE. Thanks for the help, support, encouragement, and
  14. Ah, that's a good question. You kind of have to go with what looks correct on the model. For me, this involved a LOT of staring at suits from the movie and adjusting the parts until they looked about right. Take a look at where the tops of the curved detail on the ab is relative to the wearer. Aim for that, then build the rest of the armor around that placement. I'd say that you don't want the top of the ab cutting into the middle of your chest- that would be much too tall. Maybe start with putting the top of the ab somewhere near the bottom of your sternum and adjust things fr
  • Create New...