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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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About Cricket

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  • Birthday March 2

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    Peachtree City, GA
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    First Female Centurion in Garrison

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    Georgia Garrison

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  1. Have you tried using Armorsmith to fit the parts before printing? That program has saved me hours of printing and tons of wasted filament! You attach the armor to your perfectly sized avatar, take the measurements, adjust in your slicing program, and voila. For example, I discovered for my shoretrooper shins, my perfect size was 95% scale on the X and Y axis, and 89% on the z axis just by adjusting the fit on the avatar in Armorsmith. So handy!
  2. Hey Jonathan, Just wanted to mention something about the returns on the backplate- namely the ones around the shoulders/arms. This is an area of high stress on the armor. Any returns around the back shoulders- no matter how small! - will eventually crack (*cough- ask me how I know - cough*). You'll end up having to do repairs somewhere down the road if you keep those returns on. As seen in the reference pic below, it's totally accurate to completely remove those returns on the back plate sides, especially around the shoulders. When you remove the returns back there, you allow the armor to flex, which means no cracking. Your build is coming along nicely! Keep up the good work!
  3. Hey, thanks for those kind words, Joseph! I have bugged her about EI... a lot. If she hasn't submitted for EI, it's definitely not for lack of effort on my end.
  4. Thanks for the shoutout, @wook1138! When I first started that particular build, I was sizing it down for my height- which is 5'4". My garrison friend wanted to be a TK and asked me to sell her the kit before I had finished it so I could properly size it to her frame. She is just 4'11", and we did it! Here's a pic of me (taller trooper, ha!), and her on our way to a parade troop in 2018. She totally rocks her kit! You definitely can size down a TK to fit your frame, Isaac! My friend ordered "short" thighs from Walt's Trooper Factory, and they worked out nicely. That said, you can also size down full-sized thighs just as well. The kit I'm wearing in the pic above initially was made for a typical 5'11" trooper, and I was able to make it fit my small frame. As long as you keep your proportions in check, your kit will look amazing! Don't be afraid of the stormtrooper build! We all are here to help if that's the direction you choose to follow.
  5. I found inspiration over at YouTube for making a PVC mannequin. Quick, easy, and cheap! I posted how I made mine here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41502-crickets-wtf-hero-build-even-more-tk-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=604120
  6. I used some leftover cotton broadcloth for these. It's inexpensive; something you could easily get for a few bucks at Joann, Walmart, or any fabric shop (even Amazon!). I think using felt would not necessarily be a good idea because the fabric isn't all that strong. Microfiber might be okay, but it's thin and might wear out sooner rather than later. And yep, I cut out all the squares for the magnets with pinking shears so the material wouldn't fray apart on me. Three years and four TK builds later, and they are still holding up well. "... ensure I don't scratch up the armor." We call that screen accurate weathering, son. You shouldn't be dragging the magnets all hither and yon over your armor anyhow. Your armor should be just fine if you're just using the magnets to clamp pieces together!
  7. Hey Caleb @MaskedVengeance- Somehow I missed your comment. Sorry! I didn't post an image, so that's why you couldn't see anything. Here's a link to how I did it- including pics! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41502-crickets-wtf-hero-build-even-more-tk-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=605846
  8. If I'm not too late to the party here, I'd like to add a suggestion that has worked well for my snaps on the elastic: I sandwich a piece of ABS between the elastic and the snap. I cut the ABS to the same width as the elastic, and make it about 2" long. I make a hole in the middle of the ABS piece so the snap fits in easily. It looks like this: snap-elastic-ABS-elastic-snap It removes all strain on the elastic at the snap, and makes removing your snaps a breeze. They simply pop off with the flick of a (rubber gloved) finger! Super easy and quick. I've never had to replace a snap in elastic that has been reinforced like this.
  9. I don't know if it's related to the current issues the site is having or not, but I haven't received any email from this site since Oct. 24. My settings on this site are for email to be sent when I receive PMs or content is added to threads I follow. I assumed there was no activity here for a week until I logged into the site and saw I had a bunch of notifications pending. I've looked in my gmail account to see if it's being routed to spam/trash, and there's nothing there. I created a filter to autoroute all whitearmor email to my inbox way back in 2016 and haven't had a problem with receiving email from whitearmor before.
  10. Ah, they aren't mistakes, but rather battle damage. My armor has seen incredible amounts of battle damage! That kind of thing is fairly screen accurate, you know. Start your build thread when you get your BBB. We love to see the birth of a new TK. And don't hesitate to share mistakes, because that helps you get the help you need. We are all here to support you and help make you look bada$$.
  11. Roger that! Okay, I will say that I agree with the others who have mentioned that your ab should shift up, (which will also bring your cod up, too). Someone around these parts mentioned that there should be an inch or two of space between the armor and your bits and pieces in the cod. This should make walking a little more comfortable as well. You'll see that the cod is kind of "high and tight", but still with room for mobility. Another screen reference for you: Typically, you'll see the correct ab plate position is when the top of the ab button box rests somewhere at the bottom of the sternum. The green line shows the top of the ab button box. The green line should be placed roughly around where the blue line is. You also mentioned that the top of the ab plate sits at the bottom of your rib cage. Typically, the top of the ab plate overlaps the bottom of the rib cage, so you could definitely bring it up a bit.
  12. Hey Michael, Just to make sure that I'm understanding correctly, the pics you've shared are not your armor, but you're using them as an example, correct? Think of the cod/thigh connection as puzzle pieces. They should fit each other, right? I suggest putting the torso and thighs on first. Get a pencil. You'll need to do this process both visually as well as physically. Now, stand in front of a mirror. Look at where the thighs overlap the cod. The cod serves as a template for your trim line. Using your pencil, trace a mark onto the thighs along the edge of the cod. Make your line on the thigh slightly along the inner edge the cod (this makes a conservative trim line). Take off your thighs. Trim conservatively along your trim line. You will most likely be trimming more along the inner thigh than anywhere else. Try your thighs on again with your torso. Now move your legs around a little bit. You should notice where the plastic is still clipping the cod by feel or by sound. Once you've isolated those areas, mark them with your pencil. Remove the thighs and trim again (conservatively). Try on the thighs with the torso again. Move around a bit. Check for any areas where the thighs are hitting the cod and mark them. Remove the thighs and trim again. See a pattern here? To get it right, it's a tedious process of "try on, mark, take off, trim, repeat". Take your time, and you'll get it right! Good luck! Oh, and one more thing... that rivet needs to be relocated on the ammo pack. Screen reference below: But if this isn't your armor, then disregard.
  13. Thanks! I used some thin, non stretchy fabric. Kind of like cotton duck cloth, but thinner? And small zip ties. Use one color for one polarity, another color for the mate to keep pairs easy to match.
  14. I don't know if this will help or not, but I had a similar issue with the shoulder bells when fitting my husband's RS TK. I found that the white elastic connection between the chest plate and back plate was too long, even though it seemed like it was the right length without the bells attached. I ended up shortening the white elastics up a bit. This ended up reducing the amount of "give" to the left/right, resulting in a more secure arm and tighter aligned bell-to-chest/back connection. Basically, If you have too much white elastic in there at the shoulder between the chest and back, your bells will pop out and away, resulting in large black gaps that we all want to avoid. Before adjustment on left. After adjustment on right. No trimming was involved, just shortening up the white elastics.
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