Jump to content


Deployment Officer[Staff]
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won



About Cricket

  • Rank
    Deployment Officer
  • Birthday March 2

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Peachtree City, GA
  • Interests


  • Attache Achievement Award
  • Centurion Granted Date
  • EIB Awards
  • EIB Cohorts
  • FISD Kudos
    First Female Centurion in Garrison
  • FISD Supporter

Standard Info

  • Name
  • 501st ID
  • 501st Unit
    Georgia Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

1,785 profile views
  1. Yep! I just sent you some to get you going along with rivets and some washers. Out in the mail today! I tend to find my supplies at Amazon and buy in bulk. I'm always in process of building some kind of costume for either myself or my family, so keeping snaps/rivets/glue on hand is a requirement in this household. I just noticed your pic and figured out why it seemed so familiar to me! This was taken of me last year at DragonCon... haha... (and yes, I also brought my TK)
  2. PM me your address and I can mail some snaps and rivets to you.
  3. Yeah. The bottoms of the left shin halves are a bith! (and the left shin especially so...) Good news is that coverstrips should conceal all. I'm gluing the coverstrips on now, I've lined things up fairly well, and clamped/taped the heck out of things. Fingers crossed it all looks good once the glue cures.
  4. The birthing process of magnetic shins isn't always pretty... but it's progress!
  5. Making great progress, Jennifer! Keep it up! There are a few things I am noticing that you may want to address as you fit your kit... The area in green should ideally be trimmed from the kidney. It will make the kidney fit better on you if you remove it. Same thing with the extra flashing on the ab plate. Which brings me to your Han snap. That's the little snap in the top right of the ab plate. Sorry to inform you, but it's in the wrong spot. Photos below show where you have it currently vs. where it should approximately be. A good guideline is to make the hole 15mm in from the plastic edge both horizontally and vertically. Screen kit for reference: There was a really good discussion about this issue (Han snap and kidney/ab rivet placement) on the RS kit here. Don't panic about the hole leftover once you move the snap! Use a little bit of ABS paste to fill it in, polish up, and you'll be good to go. Shoulder bells: I made the big mistake of initially trimming mine down just based on a straight measurement. The screen used bells are curved, not straight. See pic (screen bells are the slightly yellowed ones): That said, try to hold off trimming your shoulder bells until your torso is fully adjusted! If your chest/back are 100% perfect how you want them to fit, then that's the time to get those shoulder bells tackled. Shoulder bells should follow the contour of your chest and back plates. Think of the bells and chest/back as puzzle pieces that should meet together as seamlessly as possible while still retaining movement. There is no exact measurement for this because each suit is shaped differently. Rely on screen captures to emulate what you want the bells to look like. How to do this? Once your torso is fully dialed in, then tape your shoulder bell to your shoulder strap. You want to sort of wedge the bell on your shoulder, and under the chest/back plates. Take a pencil and trace where the chest and back overlap. Be conservative with this so you don't over trim. Then remove the bell, trim, and try the bell on again. Move your arm around and take note of where the bell catches on the chest/back. Conservatively mark those areas on the bell, remove the bell, conservatively trim, and try on again. Also don't be afraid to hot water bath some additional curve to those bells (you'll see that the screen bells kind of 'pinch' in at the bottoms). I think you get the idea. This requires a lot of try-on-take-off, but the effort will result in some super sweet-fitting shoulder bells! Now about the butt... I know you don't have it on now, but with as much as you've shortened the front of the suit, you will need to shorten the back as well in order for the back to fit you properly. Your kit is fitting you like mine did before I shortened the back. Take a good look at where the bottom of the cod is and where the bottom of the butt plate is. While I can't find a good screen shot of this, you'll have to rely on the illustration for the time being. Focus where the butt plate and cod line up. Those areas should meet approximately on the same plane. Basically, before I trimmed the kidney and back plates for height, the back was too long for the front. The elastic you will be installing to secure the cod/butt plates should not be a structural element (as noted in the CRL, it needs to be there, but does not to be functional). I hope I haven't been too confusing on these things! Sizing down the RS kit is no easy challenge. Again, you're making great progress!
  6. I hope I'm not too late to the party here! I had many of the same issues with my WTF that you are having on your WTF kit. You had mentioned that the WTF armor is a fan sculpt. Walt has told me that this comes from a screen-used ROTJ suit- which is why the kidney/butt plates are fused together. (Those troopers must have been itty-bitty!) The WTF kit is tiny compared to the RS suit, isn't it?! I barely had to trim anything on my WTF. The RS? Trimming for days... I think I could have built another TK with the amount of excess ABS I've trimmed. (currently building my 3rd RS TK right now...) If you haven't shaped your forearms yet, may I offer a tip? (I remember how badly oval-shaped the WTF forearms are.) I suggest assembling the fronts of the forearms together first by gluing an inner cover strip. Tape the heck out of the outside seam, though. This will allow you to clamshell-fit your forearm securely for width. All sizing adjustments for width take place on the back seams. Once you've got it properly sized and trimmed for width, glue an inner cover strip to the inside back seam (taping the heck out of the outside seam again). Then boil up some water and knock that oval into rounded submission! Inner cover strips add a lot of strength to the forearms, and allows you to get some decent hot-water shaping done without falling apart. Sidenote, congrats on recruiting your wife with her TD! She looks great!
  7. Hey Fabio! Exactly what I asked for, and I love your Can-Do attitude! We will be processing your Expert Infantry Application shortly. Thank you for your patience!
  8. Hey Jennifer, Welcome to the world of white armor! Can't wait to see how you rock that RS kit! About that kidney/ab closure... your seam line where they meet on the right should close straight. Like this (using my pics from my EIB application in my RS kit): I've always been told that the belt isn't structural; you shouldn't necessarily rely on the belt to pull things together. I mean, you can, but this symptom simply means that your kit isn't built properly for your body (yet! ). From the pic you posted, it looks like your ab/kidney are sitting high on your torso. The top of the ab button box ideally should be positioned at roughly the bottom of your sternum. Maybe share an additional pic or two showing the front? This can alter how the kidney/ab meet up. To be honest, the best way to see how everything fits is to tape the parts together from the inside (back/kidney/butt, chest/ab), then tape the front and back halves together, and try it all on. You will quickly see what needs trimming/shaping, and in what areas. And your kidney still needs to have flashing trimmed from it. That will also help reduce that gap you're seeing. Many thanks to @Mworm1974 for sharing one of my build threads with you! However, the one he shared focused mostly on my ATA Hero lid. Take a look at my RS build thread here for much more info about how I assembled my RS kit. I also documented my second build here, but it's a WTF kit (overall, much smaller than the RS suit). Keep in mind that since you've trimmed the cod, for best fit, you will need to either shorten your kidney or shorten your back plate (or, like I did, shorten a little of both to keep things in good proportion). Looking forward to watching your progress!
  9. Hey Shawn, How goes your progress? Any updates? I hope trimming that ATA ABS hasn't gotten the best of you!
  10. Holy cow, are we mid-way through April already?! Progress on this kit has been slower than I'd like it to be. I take full responsibility for it, though! I have a serious case of "Ooh-look-a-project-itis" lately. I'm still not done with my Hero TK build (although it's coming along, I haven't documented it, though!), and my T-21 foam build is still mid-way through, and I still have to convert my stunt TK to a TD (and build the backpack for it), and then there's this TK I'm working on... and most recently I got the itch to start looking into 3D printing a shoretrooper. Oh boy. Since my last post, I was able to acquire some TK Boots for my hubby (thanks to @Commander Gree!). And today I finally made some flippin' progress on this kit, which has me thrilled! I present to you... LEGS! Trimming for width is always the most challenging part for me. Not only do you have to trim to make the parts fit properly, but you have to make sure that the front and back seams line up. Which is no easy task with the RS shins! One half of the shins (the left halves, the RS kit comes with two identical shins) has a lot less material at the bottom of it than the other. This isn't an issue if you plan on shrinking the shins down a lot (as I've had to do to my own shins in the past). However, I hardly have to trim anything off the backs of the RS shins on my hubby, so I don't have much room to adjust for wonkiness. In the pic below, you can see how the shins line up in the back. There is barely 1cm of material overlapping at the top, and nothing at the bottom. (This was taken before I finished trimming right thigh for size, so please ignore that!) The shins fit my husband perfectly as taped, so I'm going to have to do some serious coverstrip magic to straighten things out. *For the record ALL RS shins are made like this; it isn't some lame overtrimming from the studio.* I will be assembling his shins with magnetic closures (like I've done with my other 3 sets of shins), and all the hardware for that part of the project has already been created and acquired (I really am not a fan of making magnetic buttons out of ABS. I had the foresight to create those last October- yay!). The other bit of progress made has been with the torso (no pics for this part). I've reinforced all the returns and installed the brackets for strapping the torso parts together. I've also been successful with installing the split rivets and strapping on the right side kidney/ab, and installing the Han snap. These are all little things that seem to take a lot of time to get done for me. But when it's done- WHEW! I'm off to get stuff glued now.
  11. Thanks for those, Fabio! Boy, you're quick! Before we can get things rolling, we also need one more updated photo: Hovi Mic tips with more accurate mesh. It should be fairly easy to pop out the fine mesh screen and put in something that resembles the mesh in the green circles as shown below. Once we have these new photos, we should be able to get started on your review. Thank you!
  12. Ciao, Fabio! Thank you for taking the time to submit your armor for Expert Infantry! We will be with you shortly. Also, thank you for submitting those additional photos so quickly. You're really on top of things! Before we can proceed with the review, we will need a detail shot of your right side with your arms raised. Much appreciated!
  13. A Hasbro can be approved for EI (Level 2), and you're correct... not Centurion (Level 3). I had the same dilemma as you. I wanted pewpewpew, but I wanted Centurion as well. I ended up buying a Hyperfirm to satisfy the Centurion requirements. I've never trooped with it, actually. My Hasbro is lighter and (IMO) much more fun to troop with. I don't think Hyperfirm produces blasters anymore. Praetorian Blasters seems to be the new go-to for rubber Centurion-qualified weaponry (and since their blasters are all rubber, they are super con-friendly). I had heard great things about them, and they had some e-11 blasters recently available, so I snagged one. Holy cow, it is epic. The Praetorian e-11 is a huge upgrade over my Hyperfirm with regards to detail. It's a little pricey, but you really do get what you pay for. It is gorgeous! (I ended up giving my Hyperfirm to my hubby because he needs one for his upcoming TK.) You can find more info and pics of Praetorian Blasters here. Send them a PM, and they will hook you up.
  14. Glad to see you here, Kevin! Welcome aboard!
  • Create New...