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Cricket

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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About Cricket

Member Title

  • Position
    Attaché

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Peachtree City, GA
  • Interests
    cricket10401@gmail.com

FISD Info

  • Attache Achievement Award
    1
  • 3D Contributor Award
    1
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20160317
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Kudos
    First Female Centurion in Garrison

Standard Info

  • Name
    Cricket
  • 501st ID
    10401
  • 501st Unit
    Georgia Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

3,862 profile views
  1. I had to trim a lot into that upper neck area and shoulders on my RS backplate. I also had to heat-curve things on my RS backplate to fit better as well. If trimming makes things fit better, then go for it (just trim conservatively as you go)!
  2. Looking at your pics, have you removed all of the returns off of the ends of your forearms? I see some curving at the ends, but maybe it's just the way the lighting is.
  3. I had issues with my belt sliding up as well. I put some velcro on the armor and corresponding areas of the canvas belt (left and right sides near the kidney), and that solved any slippage issues for me. Maybe worth a try?
  4. Even though my belt was installed snug on the ab, it still liked to shift up and down. I added a little tab of velcro on the ab/cloth belt. It helps it stay put. Looks like you've got the same issue going on. It's common, I believe. Love that last pic of you and your little trooper!!
  5. Yep! Those bells look a heck of a lot better now. Great job!!!
  6. Rather than experimenting blindly with your bell cuts, why not try something easier? The entire suit is made to fit together. For example, the tops of the thighs should follow the lines of the cod. For EIB/Centurion, one of the requirements for the bell/chest relationship is that there is minimal black showing. Take a look again at the reference pic below: For the kits I've built, I figured out how to trim the bell and achieve minimal black space by noting the relationship to the chest plate while it is on the person it is built for. It's easier to do this if you have an assistant, but it can be done when you're on your own (it just takes more time). Put on your torso. Position one bell (with bicep attached) closely on your shoulder so the top of the bell meets the shoulder bridge. You can temporarily attach it with blue tape at the top. You will probably note that the edges of the bell are quite overlapped by the chest and back plates. Using a pencil, follow the edge of the chest and back plates along the bell. This will give you a rough template/guideline for where you need to trim. This trim line is different for every trooper because the edges of the chest and back plates are always unique to each trooper! Remove the bell and trim conservatively. Put the bell back on and resecure it with blue tape. Move your arm forward and back. You'll note areas that are clipping with each other. Using your pencil again, mark these areas where the bell hits the chest/back plate. Remove the bell and trim conservatively. Repeat all the above steps until the top of the bell touches the shoulder bridge, and the edges of the bell and the edges of the chest/back plates no longer significantly interfere with each other. You should end up with shoulder bells that have edges that meet up nicely with the upper torso (think puzzle pieces), but don't have any resistance (for that "minimum black" look!). Hope this helps!
  7. Overall, you're looking pretty sharp there, trooper! Good work! My suggestion to make your armor look a little bit better would be to bring in those shoulder bells a bit. You've got that "linebacker trooper" look. It's nothing that'll stop you from basic approval, but it might get a mention if you plan on applying for your EIB or Centurion awards. As they are now, they're somewhat square. Note how the shoulder bells on these troopers taper inwards. Bells are usually trimmed with a curve (or swoop) to them, not straight up and down (square). Note the cut lines on the yellowed (screen used) bells here: A little bit of trimming will help bring in the shoulder bells a bit and reduce that linebacker look.
  8. Finally got around to taking some proper photos of Cameron fully suited up in his armor today! This trooper Mom approves. Took it out for a stroll in our neighborhood. Because fall, y'all! Cameron reports that the kit is comfortable and totally troopable! Looking forward to when we can get out and do our thing again. Stay safe!
  9. Yep! I have another RS Hero, though. Always gotta keep a shiny white on hand!
  10. From what I'm seeing on the holster I built, the bearing acts as a stopper of sorts. It supports the blaster and prevents the blaster from rotating forward when locking it into the holster. I could be wrong on this, though (I don't have the holster nearby to double check this!). And by adding an extra dimensional element, it looks kind of cool, too.
  11. I'm not entirely sure, sorry. My guess is that having 3 layers allows you to put some extra reinforcement in there. I wouldn't use the holster with just the 3D printed layers alone. I can only imagine someone bumping against you and the blaster snapping off of the holster... and it would be difficult to even notice it was snapped off at all if your helmet is on. Having some metal installed in the bracket adds a bit of strength so that this kind of scenario won't be as likely to happen. This is the image I used for reference. For length, I don't remember exactly what I used, sorry! I had a pack of assorted metric screws and kind of tried out different lengths. They weren't the security torx ones because I couldn't find them in the size I needed. Remember that my build was scaled down, so the length would be different for you anyhow. The screws I used exited the inside of the thigh armor just a little bit... just enough so I could get some e6000 on them to make sure they wouldn't go anywhere and also to cover the ends to prevent scratches. I used the 7mm M3 bearings found here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW18RQY/ I think I kind of eyeballed things for size. I don't know if you would need to go with a thicker bearing due to scaling, though. Maybe someone else who has built a full-sized holster bracket could chime in here? @ukswrath?
  12. The snaps in the pic look like the typical line 24 snaps that we use on TK builds. That's what I would use. Look for Tandy brand. They attach with a hammer. You'll need a fastener kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-1265-Fastener-Fasteners/dp/B00004T7VT Or if you prefer to use a little less force for a little more money, you can invest in a snap press. It is my second favorite build tool (the Dremel is my #1 tool!). https://www.goldstartool.com/heavy-duty-press-for-grommets-snaps-buttons-rivets-1-die-set.htm
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