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Cricket

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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    903
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About Cricket

  • Rank
    Centurion
  • Birthday March 2

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Peachtree City, GA
  • Interests
    cricket10401@gmail.com

FISD Info

  • Attache Achievement Award
    1
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20160317
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Kudos
    First Female Centurion in Garrison
  • FISD Supporter
    Yes

Standard Info

  • Name
    Christine
  • 501st ID
    10401
  • 501st Unit
    Georgia Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. And with that, the EVA foam T-21 build begins. First thing was to print out Pandatrooper's full size template, and tape it all together so I know what I'm getting into. You can see one of the rolled up sheets of EVA foam along with the schedule 30 PVC pipe there on the right. I've got more than enough material to make at least three T-21 blasters! Then I made a few print outs of Jax's (over at the MEPD) Parts Breakdown template and cut out the pattern pieces. Instead of making my parts out of wood, I'll cut them out of EVA foam in 3/8" and 1/4" thicknesses. I am super excited to get this build going. Fingers crossed that I can maintain momentum as I divvy up time between this and my TK builds!
  2. All really good points, Ben. So this got me thinking about the PVC barrel. In some of the T-21 builds I've read, I've seen people mention that if they could find a lighter PVC barrel component, they would take it. The off-the-shelf stuff (schedule 40) is heavy. Mainly I'm talking about the 3" and 2.5" pipes. If I could find lighter sections of PVC, then a foam stock built from high-density EVA foam should work balance-wise. Let it be known that in my area, the only PVC pipe I can find nearby in stores is schedule 40. A little driving out of my area, and I found schedule 40 cell core PVC pipe at Lowes. This is lighter than solid schedule 40, but I thought I could do better. Some calling around to local hardware stores, and I found an Ace Hardware (about 20 minutes away) that was happy to special order a 10' length of 3" schedule 30 pipe for me. At just $6 (including tax, free ship to store), it was worth buying if only to look at it. And whaddya know... the 3" schedule 30 pipe is super light- much lighter than the cell core PVC of the same diameter! And it's the perfect size! Next I decided to do some online searching for 2.5" schedule 30 pipe. This is an odd size that I can't seem to find locally, either. Lucky for me though, I located a length of 2.5" schedule 30 pipe online via Home Depot. I should have that here in a few days. I've got a spOOL68 resin kit for the T-21 on the way, but I might make some effort to build the detail stuff in EVA foam as well if I muster up the courage (and time!). I could always build two blasters- one from foam, and one from wood, and see which one I prefer. (I wouldn't need two T-21's, so I could always sell the other. ) And with that, look for the EVA foam T-21 build thread to begin soon.
  3. Hey Troopers, I'm in the process of prepping my T-21 build. I see a big consideration for this BFG is weight. I've been trying to brainstorm what might be good ways to lighten the load of the blaster. The lighter it is, the more likely I'll bring it out trooping. Last year I scored some 4x8 sheets of high density EVA foam in various thicknesses from 1cm to 5cm thick. I've been following Kamui Cosplay for a while now, and I've been (kind of) hoarding gathering foam for various costume projects. I'm thinking that it would be quite possible to create the stock of the T-21 out of EVA foam instead of wood. I could reinforce the center of it with a piece of aluminum tube (repurposed from a set of old golf clubs). Last year I made a very strong sword with EVA foam and aluminum tube in the middle, and it can take (and give) quite a beating! If it can be done, an EVA foam stock would make the BFG a lot lighter, methinks. I'm wondering if anyone has attempted this yet. I've searched here and over at the MEPD, and I've found nada. Can anyone chime in if this idea could work?
  4. That trooper is just a grown up version of Chaka from Land of the Lost. They had to mod his lid to fit.
  5. If you're still having waddle issues, you may need to trim some of the sides of the cod to narrow things up a bit. From your side view, it looks as if your cod is a little low (*giggle* as I write that...). That can impact walking comfortably. You may also consider bringing the cod up a bit. You'd be surprised at how much more mobility you have when that cod isn't hanging around so low!
  6. Mine is trimmed super skinny!
  7. Cricket

    JeklynHyde's RS Prop Masters, ANH Stunt Build

    Looks amazing! Just something I learned from my own RS kit, but I found that cracks developed in areas on returns that had not been reinforced (you may or may not have this issue come up). I add an extra layer to the entire length of the returns now when building to prevent cracks.
  8. Cricket

    JeklynHyde's RS Prop Masters, ANH Stunt Build

    About the left and right sides of the kidney... One side is longer than the other right out of the box. I recently made a post about this. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45339-crickets-rs-props-hero-build-yet-more-vertically-challenged-assembly/?do=findComment&comment=643312
  9. A little side track about the RS TK kit... I thought it might be good to share some pics of how irregular the RS TK suit is out-of-the-box. This is not the sanitized version of a TK at all. The biggest part of the irregular nature of this kit is apparent in the back. Here are the three back pieces. They are positioned in the same manner as if you strapped them together without making any changes to the returns of the kit. It's not bad, but notice that the OII box is not straight. There is almost a 15mm difference between the bottoms of the OII box corners to the bottom of the back plate. Now, if I make it so that the OII box is straight, there is a gap of - you guessed it! - 15mm on the right side between the kidney and back plates. There is no way to properly strap the pieces together when they are assembled like this unless you're either trimming the top of the kidney or bottom of the back plate. (Or if you made your strapping particularly long on the right side, which is something I suppose could be done, but then you'd have a large black gap on the right. ) And next to each other so you can better see the differences (and if you've been following this thread, you can see the weird gappy part of the kidney/butt plate return on the left side that I was talking about earlier): In the photo below, you can see what happens if you trim the back plate straight and even along the bottom. (I was just getting started on fitting my kit, apologies for the scary shot.) The odd shape of the kidney throws it off. Another pic that shows the wonkiness of the back plate. The back plate is lined up straight in the pic (I was using my floor lines as a guide), but you can see how odd the box looks. And in my case, I'm doing a lot of back plate trimming to emulate the Luke Hero. I doubt that most will have this issue, but the more you trim from the bottom of the RS back plate, the more apparent the rotated nature of the OII box becomes. And here's the unaltered kidney. You can easily see here that there is about 15mm difference between the right side and the left side along the top. So for anyone considering going with an RS TK: You will not be getting something that is sanitized, perfect, or idealized. You will bang your head against a wall sometimes trying to get things to fit properly or look just right. Not much lines up perfectly, but that's exactly how the movie kits were! RS TK kits are weird, and wonky, and wonderful.
  10. Thanks for the feedback! I can assure you that when I have the kit on, the back plate sits right at the edge of the kidney (no overlapping). It doesn't look the same on a hanger. I'll get proper pics soon. The RS kidney is super wonky! It is not even from one side to the other at all. I have not shortened the kidney returns on this kit. It is taller more on one side than the other. The bottom of the back plate is not even, either. In order to keep the OII box straight and fitting well to the kidney, I had to cut the bottom of the back at a slight angle. With my previous RS TK, I shortened the kidney by almost 2 inches. I made sure that the kidney was straight and even on top and bottom once I was done. I also made sure the back returns were straight as well. Since I'm not going there with this build, I'm having to deal with things looking different. Annnnnnnyhow, OII box on the back plate is now straight (but cut at an angle), wonky kidney (untrimmed) floats in the middle, butt plate (untrimmed) is straight. Overall the kit is straight in the back, but if you really look at the middle, it looks "off". It's kind of like one of those Topsy-turvy cakes. If I had trimmed the back plate to match the top of the kidney, the back would have ended up really crooked. Does that make sense? And thanks for letting me know about your grappling hook box. Sounds like bending those flaps may be in my future!
  11. While waiting to figure out what to do about that Grappling Hook Box, I decided to try to improve the returns where the kidney and butt plates meet. That gap was making me a little nuts. I removed the brackets from the butt plate (again, sigh) and examined what was going on. It took a long while of looking at how the returns were meeting together to figure out what the issue was. Turns out that there was a slight- and I mean VERY slight- area on the left end of the butt plate return that was a teeny tiny bit warped, and it was throwing the entire alignment off back there- causing that weird gappy thing to happen. I busted out my handy wood jig and heat gun, secured the butt plate directly to the jig (a new trick I just figured out, BTW), and not just flattened out, but angled the return in and down. Pics are before and afters... I know it's not the same because I'm not wearing it, but even just hanging there, it is a huge improvement over how the two pieces were meeting before. That small gap was making me crazy!!! Now I can get back to fine-tuning more fixes without this on my mind.
  12. Yours is smaller than mine. My box is 10cm wide, and total of the back plate is 18cm. I might try to find someone locally who can vacuum form a smaller box for me if I am not allowed to bend in the wings of the box. It would require some dissection of my current setup, but it could be salvageable. @ukswrath, when you get a moment, could you weigh in here? I want to make sure whatever I do will clear EIB/Centurion. Thanks!
  13. Thanks, Daniel! I'm sure this must have something to do with my small size. I looked at Christina's EIB/Centurion applications where she was wearing her grappling hook/box, and hers looks fine on her belt. But she's also bigger than me. :/ Looking at the CRL for the Hero TK, the optional box shown doesn't look exactly flat to me. There is nothing mentioned that the wings of the box can't be slightly angled, nor is there anything mentioned that the wings must be flat. I'll also add that the box in the CRL overall looks smaller than mine. The distance on the box between the switch and the grappling hook hole is definitely shorter.
  14. Thank you for that feedback, Tony. I may end up doing just that- going with some nylon straps in there. I've got plenty of the stuff laying around here, so it should be an easy switch. This morning I began hacking away at my 'to do' list for my kit. First up: fixing the back corner/kidney overlap. I used a hair dryer to gently heat up the back plate and bend it a bit first. The overlap was still there, but I improved the curve (so, yay!). I trimmed the corner of the back plate off and sanded it down until it just met the top of the kidney. Much better methinks. Before and after pics below. Next, I did some conservative trimming of the bottom of the chest plate to flatten out that arch. This mod scared me a little more than I'd like to admit. After cutting, I sanded things down a little to flatten the arch even more. It'll look slightly different when I'm wearing it, but I think I'm headed in the right direction. I can always trim more later if I need to. Before and after pics below. And the reference photo next to what my armor looks like now, just for comparison's sake. Okay, now here's my next huge hurdle. The grappling hook box. I can't seem to find any good photos of how it fits on Luke, and it doesn't seem like it fits properly on my armor. I chatted briefly with Tony about this, but I never shared pics with him (hoping this helps, Tony!). I need feedback in a major way on this, troopers! First, here are some reference pics for y'all: To me, it looks like the entire attachment has a slight curve on the ends so that it follows the line of the kidney. I don't see any sort of gaps between the belt and the kidney, which would be indicative of the box being flat. There is too much of a curve on Luke's kidney for me to believe that the box attachment is totally flat. My box attachment is completely flat. Surely someone can help me figure this out. Here's what it looks like when hooked on my belt. A view from directly overhead: And a view from directly underneath: I have curved the kidney in a bit for my size, but not as much as I did with my RS Stunt TK. I have not made any size trims at all to make the kidney smaller (I wanted this TK to look larger around the torso than my stunt). So I don't think this is an issue of me overshaping the kidney. And held up next to the unaltered (unshaped) kidney of my husband's RS TK, the box fits in the same way there as well. So, troopers... opinions on this would be super appreciated. I can't move the box any further back on the kidney because it would set the box out of correct placement (I still have the flat box/curved kidney issue there, too). And I certainly don't want to wear it like a thermal detonator; that would be weird for sure. My inclination is to gently bend the front facing 'wing' of the box (near the kidney/ab seam) inwards at maybe a 30 degree angle to better fit the curve of the armor. This would allow the box and hook behind it to sit closer to the kidney and still maintain their flat shape. Thanks so much for any input!!!
  15. Taking a short break from my husband's RS build to work on my own build today. Had just a few minutes to get my black leggings on and try on my torso with arms. This is the first time I've tried this much of the kit on since reshaping things last week. Photos have been adjusted so they don't look backwards (they were taken in a mirror). Here's my before additional shaping pic of the back (on the left), and the after additional shaping on the back (on the right): A few things I'm seeing. There's a strange area at the returns where the butt plate and kidney meet in the middle left. You can see it's a bit more gappy in that location. I've compared this to the same unaltered parts of my husband's RS TK, and it's there as well. Quirk in the armor I suppose. It bugs me, but I'm going to have to live with it. The right side of the butt plate is still wanting to flare out a bit at the top return. I'll have to hot water bathe that area so it curves a bit better. Left side is good. The right side lower corner of the back plate is overlapping the kidney. That can also be fixed with a hot water bath so it curves in and up. See pic below. In the photo below, you can see how my right side shoulder bell is smushing itself in my back plate as I bring my right arm back. That area where the shoulder bell is flattening out it where it's all happening. I'll need to trim some of the bell for clearance. And this just looked 'off' to me: So I removed the belt, and here's what's going on: Dammit. I need to shorten the lower rivet elastic and possibly make a slightly longer elastic for the top rivet. Ugh. Really glad I bought a bag of 100 split rivets way back when I built my first TK. At least the other side seems to be okay. I'm also considering doing some additional trimming to the bottom of the chest plate. After looking more at the Luke Hero, I see that I could flatten out the curve of the chest by trimming up on the sides. This alteration will also make the lines of the ab plate look better along the waist, too. I am still missing my shoulder straps and still need to refine my forearms. Well, that and a bunch of little adjustments still need to be made here and there... I forgot how time consuming the final fit can be to dial in! Oh, and if anyone sees something that I've missed, please let me know. I can handle the critique!
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