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Correct, and the facts remain... Recasting is bad for everyone Mark has proven his armor was recast by TM. People can choose to believe it or not. Garrisons and Detachments have taken their stand which undoubtedly will cause a rift in the force, for a while at least. A vote from the FISD staff by the end of the week will determine if TM remains on the vetted vendors list and a member of the FISD. FISD staff DO NOT promote one armor over another, our sole purpose is (as Caleb nicely put it) guide members/newcomers toward vendors who have a good reputation and deliver accurate and timely products, while not showing undue preference.

IDK who Chad is, or really anyone else on here (but thanks for all the good threads and help I've received), but I see his point but I think it is an incomplete thought. If we are just talking about staff showing preference to a specific vendor it can set a bad precedent. I know some staff members are vendors and will obviously support and promote themselves, but if a staff member heavily promotes/supports a single vendor (as in they only promote that vendor no matter the quality, and ignores the existence of others) then that would not be acceptable in my mind. In that case I would be suspicious of some type of foul play, under the table deals, bribes, or other shenanigans. I am not accusing anyone of this nor do I expect to, but if it happens I would expect that member to step down from their position or to change their ways and to support all approved vendors equally. On the other hand, if a staff member guides newcomers like myself toward vendors who have a good reputation and deliver accurate and timely products, while not showing undue preference, that would be acceptable by my interpretation of the charter. Hence the approved vendor list. Once a vendor, 501st member or not, shows bad intent, is unable to deliver quality parts, or is shown to marginalize and degrade others work then they should be publicly removed from the vendor list. Their accusations should be laid out, and then forum members should easily be able to find why they aren't a good person to buy from. Nobody has control over what armor anyone buys, or what they do with it on the own time, except the person who bought it. If they want to paint it pink, or rainbow, or blue, or turn it inside out and wear it to walmart then that's impressive, but just fine. The legion, and the detachments, should make the accusations known, and if they are valid they should remove said vendor, and that's it. I have watched a recaster in the SLD get called out, get help, and is now back on the "approved list" for vendors (I think there is a list somewhere there, but it's a smaller detachments so they may not have an actual list, just recommendations). So it is possible, but in this case I don't see that happening. Now, back to the subject at hand. I really hope my comments aren't controversial, I just followed 40+ comments and figured I would summarize a little of what a lot of people are feeling, and also help get the thread back on subject. To sskunky, That totally sucks. I can only see a few minor differences (not been looking at white armor long, but I can spot a vader version from 100 feet away haha), but the ears and a few other tells makes me believe your accusations. Ive seen your work over the past few years since I started this hobby and I really wish this hadn't happened to you. I wish the best for you and your family. If able, I would find it easier to spot the similarities if you compared both of the helmets in the pictures to another vendor's helmet. The shadows and other small details you mention are just not visible to me yet. But I understand if you don't have the time/patience/desire/ability to do that. To TM (assuming you read this), I would be interested in what you have to say about the accusations, and I would like to see if you have any proof that sskunky's accusations are incorrect. If you can prove that you didn't recast this or any other items that you sell then I will happily refer people to your quality products and I hope others will follow. If there is no proof, or no response then me and (most of) the rest of the legion will assume you are a recaster and will try to keep current and future members from purchasing from you. The ball is in your court, I hope you don't drop it. To everyone else, HI! Thanks for all the help, I'm getting close to finished on my TK and the forum has been invaluable, as expected. Sorry if I sound uneducated in TK stuff, it's because I am , if you have any questions about Vader, R2D2 building, or MSE building there is a good chance I can answer them (or at least direct you to a good source) so please don't hesitate to ask. Keep up the good work, don't get the Rona, and I hope to see you trooping soon! LLAP (oh wait, wrong forum) MTFBWY (uhhh... nevermind, how about) Long Live the Emperor!

Chad, Chad, Chad....... what do we do with you. So true to form as per your continual comments on the Legion boards with matters you simply have no clue about, you feel compelled to make uneducated commentary with no research behind it here. Now you can do that all you like over there, but do not bring your political pot stirring here please.

For the record, no Staff member here has taken sides in this. What the Staff has done, as you have read in the Legion forums already, is to do what it has always done, and that is to look out for the members of the Detachment both present, and future by maintaining a list of vendors that operate fairly and skillfully to provide the membership with a quality kit, and a quality experience and support. That, is one of the absolutely primary duties of the Command Staff here at the Detachment. Whether you realize it, I have no idea, but in 13 months you have managed to become one of the "always unhappy, white noise" voices in the Legion. No matter what happens, you have an opinion, often contrary and often based on anything aside from the history and precedent of the Legion, and/or how it, its Detachments, Garrisons, and Outposts have operated over the last two decades plus. Just a bit of advice, member to member, spend a little more time reading and a little less time typing. Understand the history that has been mentioned time and again both here at FISD and at the Legion forums. An informed opinion is far more likely to be taken seriously and respected than a loud one. But, I digress.

Please don't buy into the "I got the moulds in a trade" bullshucks. Someone has tried to disguise where they come from when they were created. Someone has form for doing this time and time again and someone has been very quiet on this subject.

A little history lesson, I've only been around these parts since 2014. During that time myself and quite a few members here have been verbally backhanded by the vendor who's action are in question here. He's even been banned on a couple occasions for his actions. Up until last weekend I was promoting TM armor. I put my feelings aside and promoted the quality of workmanship that deserved praise and recommendation. As Tim mentioned you might want to do some homework before you question the motives of some of the staff.

I just went over the the other forums and read the lot. I am embarrassed to be part of the UKG at this time. Some of those people are in top posts and their attitude sucks balls. As a costumer, I cannot fathom who on earth can not give respect to people who are lucky enough to be in a position to get their hands on any screen used prop, and have the guts to make accurate copies for others at the risk or ruining an item that can sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars. just unbelievable. I have huge respect for people like Mark and Joe for doing this and I think that being up front and completing above board business practices is paramount and deserves the respect of others.

Hey everyone, a couple of years ago I was on these forums doing an E11 Blaster and an ANH Stormtrooper build. Now I'm back doing The Mandalorian's Blaster. I decided to post here first because of the incredible group of people here helping others. I haven't found anything like the help I received here on any other forums. You guys and gals are great and really make people feel like they belong. Ok, so I can't get over how much things have changed in the past two years. We used to order a resin kit and then spend countless hours modifying it to make it screen accurate. Now, you can design the parts yourself and 3D print them at home in resin at the cost of only a few hundred dollars for a resin printer. Enter the blaster from The Mandalorian. I printed a couple of different 3D versions that I found online (both paid and free) before deciding that they weren't screen accurate enough for me so I designed my own. Using any photos I could come across I recreated the blaster in about 2 months using Fusion 360. It's gone thru countless revisions but I think it's getting pretty close now. If anyone is interested in the files, I have a shop setup on ETSY under the name OuterRimWorkshop. This is a rendering from Fusion 360: I designed the parts to make it easy to paint and assemble the individual components. I also wanted a working trigger, so I built that in as well. I won't get into the intricacies of 3D printing. Like anything, there's a lot of trial and error. The technology isn't perfect and resin printing, while it looks good, is still very prone to warping. I generally print using inexpensive resin but for this model I purchased some more expensive resin called Blu by Siraya Tech which is supposed to be stronger and more accurate in terms of dimensional accuracy. The only odd thing is that the resin comes as a sort of transparent blue/green color which makes it a little difficult to see fine details until it's painted. The printer I have is an Elegoo Mars which is a very inexpensive resin printer. The downside being that the build plate can only print 4.7 inches by 2.6 inches by 6 inches. I think it took me about a week to print all the individual parts. Here's a photo of all the parts... The grips were printed in wood PLA plastic on an FDM (non-resin) printer. I've heard you can stain 3D printed wood just like normal wood. I guess I'll find out. The Mars printer is capable of printing pixels at about 47 microns in X/Y which allows for some fairly nice detail. Here are close-ups of the hammer and a switch that's on the side of the blaster: I can't wait to get started on assembly and painting. I'll post updates when I am able but life seems to find a way of delaying any projects I want to work on. :-) Mark

Great catch and I think the CRL is actually wrong, having been carried over from ANH. I don't plan on outlining my ear bars. Traps and tears tho, yes. Also, is the vocoder rubbery black or satin? Now I'm second-guessing based on this pic of a screen used helmet...

TESTING IMAGE HOSTED BY IMGUR Please let me know if you can view this so I know my privacy settings are correct. Thanks!

Hi Eric, and thanks for submitting this AWESOME looking armor! Definitely one of the best built Anovos kits I have seen in a long time, but I need a favor before we can move you along, sir. As per the CRL for Basic approval, the paint "...does not leave the teeth area". A small bottle of Goo-Gone, some toothpicks and some cotton swabs would clean up those areas perfectly and should take you all of 15 minutes. (The blue arrow points to one that looks good). Reference images Although not required for EI approval, I would like to give you a heads-up in case when you apply for Centurion . For some strange reason Avovos uses the correct ear screws in the top of the ears but not the bottom, so these will need to be replaced for Level 3. I will send you 2 sets (screw/washer/nut) at no charge if you pay the postage. If interested, just PM me. Reference images Looking forward to seeing the updates soon!!

Black acrylic won't be here until Tuesday!? I guess I can start with priming and sanding... Paint booth is set up! 1st coat of filler primer is applied! I was going to wet sand to 400 now, but I ran out of free time. There's always tomorrow!

Indeed good catch . I'll add this to the 2020 CRL update thread

Thank you for the kind words, I very much appreciate it! Here are the photos of the corrected teeth. Please let me me know if this works or if I need to remove any more paint. When 15 minutes turns into an hour ...

I just love me an ESB stormtrooper. I am working on one now as it happens. Wow it’s been forty years since it was released at the cinema! Im still using TK4510 decals, Mike has been supplying these for years. I am sure that you can probably get more accurate silk screen printed decals from somewhere but I am happy with Mikes for now. Thise snow trooper style hand plates are available from a wide range of sources. Rubber or satin material gloves long enough to remain under the forearms. And a nice leather holster pretty much round up all that’s needed for conversion.

Maybe you could try imgur? It works pretty well for me

Thanks guys. It’s not hard to see the BS when you’ve been in this hobby as long as we have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Give it a few minutes and it should not be archived.

Cool. Updating my color pallet to the above unless someone objects before I get around to hanging the plastic I bought today and final sanding a few things. Trying to get every dang pinhole haha More paint soon. Been tired. Also, shout out to my wonderful girlfriend (and DZ-71490) Lauren, who will probably never see this post, for tolerating another build taking up the living room floor for months on end. It's been an amazing project for keeping my mind busy during tough times, but I've spent way too much energy on this thing. I want to get it done soon! Ah!

I may have another option now lol! I'm thinking I could cut strips off a running shirt...the one below is pretty close to the recommended Humbrol 14 French Blue, and it's performance material and should breathe really well. Plus, I'd have extra that I can send out to others! How does that sound/look?

Leopard trooper look is cool

One thing I like to do is to spray a light guide/mist coat of black, it's helpful when you rub down it will show any dips and rises, the more black that is left the more dips and holes.

Amazing story, and a great job...Congratulations on the values you have taught your child...

Let's see - fix the belt boxes, repaint the helmet, assemble and paint the blaster ... hmmm, it's possible ... Or assemble my TFA FOTK ... and get it approved in a timely fashion ... Maybe I'll try for EIB #1001

I keep telling myself... marathon, not a sprint. But I'm still trying to make decent time on things, though! Remember how I mentioned earlier that my Bondo-application skills are novice-level? Well, I really found out how bad I am at it when it came time for spot putty. I closely examined everything with a strong light and magnifying glasses. I put spot putty (red areas) where I saw small pinholes or scratches from sanding. The armor looks diseased! I don't mind wet-sanding spot putty, though. It's pretty easy to work with. Wet sanding with a 400 then 800 grit really made the armor silky smooth and eliminated most of the pin holes and scratches. Before and after wet sanding of the chest plate, back plate, and a thigh... Here you can see everything I wet sanded today to silky smoothness. I still need to apply spot putty and wet sand the ab, which is why that part isn't in the pic. But don't you think that the armor looks like it has chicken pox? Overall, I am very happy with my progress (even though my hands are completely shriveled up from hours in the water). I can't find seams or print lines on any of the parts at all! I will apply another coat of filler primer and check for any pinholes I missed from the first round for the next step. I noticed a few tiny areas I want to fill in on the back plate, and I'm sure I'll see others as I proceed. The filler primer really helps to highlight what needs work.

Shenanigans!

A long time ago... I was tricked into vouching for a "new maker". I was green at the time. I bring his new helmet make here and announce it and without much waring, I was covered up in a flaming storm from many many members here, but mostly by non 501st users and some makers at the time. Even if I stated that I had nothing to do with the production or business, I was blamed for recasting. It was so intense that I swore never to comeback to the FISD (at that time Paul went all the way and "fished" me back and give it a second chance to the community). Remembering that, and seeing what is happening now, I can only think that those kind of reactions and the ones we see today in the main 501st forums, serve other porpuses and interests. They are orchestrated to serve certain people and business and can't be bothered if you don't touch what they want. Not pointing out anyone, certainly not TM or CFO, and it is not a conspiracy theory either... it is just the only explanation I can find for such different reactions over time. Saludos PS. Man, I missed the boards action. It has been a while for me.

Jumped on a B kit sale that KB had last month, roughly 1/3 the normal price for a kit with bucket. While waiting on the armor I had the se44c and f11d printed and assembled. Both are fully painted although the pic shows the pistol only partially painted. Gaskets are being made as we speak by Pinky, just ordered a belt from belts of the first order. Gloves are ordered, still need to purchase shoes once they open up again in June. Dan isn't able to ship out holsters right now, but I'll grab one once he is. This weekend I was able to start on the bucket. Cut out the eyes and the vents, I'll be using UKSWRAITHs audio system, haven't ordered it yet though. I use his setup in my shoretrooper captain and love having everything inside the bucket. I'll start trimming plastic this week, just reading more build threads to make sure I don't mess up my cut lines.

Keep it all together here. You can edit the title to reflect the content. perhaps something like, Fallen Order HAS CRL development and build thread. Kinda covers all basses, and I'm sure anyone in the future that wishes to build one will love the extra history behind it.

So in keeping up with what happened in Lethbridge Alberta on May 4th, updated signage from the pizza cantina.

I don't have permission to see it? The other big one that I noticed on set is that I don't believe that "Thigh armor must be closed in the back with Velcro." should be a requirement either. I know there's debate about the Celebration display suit having velcro at the back of the thighs, but I noticed that the studio suit thighs were overlapped but open in the back and kept together using elastic inside. You can see this noticeably in The Mando S01E08 when a TK kneels down at about 36:36 in and it opens up a bit. No velcro.

I was considering them, I actually I use their E11, I love it. But I'm staying away for the following reasons. -I want a fun project to work on during these times -price -I cant get in contact with them, Iv'e messaged them twice in the last two months. -Most importantly, I need something that can come apart for security and storage purposes. The barrel can be removed from the receiver. In a few months i'll be moving onto a college campus and carrying a rifle like prop, even in a case, could be risky. So I would like something that can fit into make crate. Thanks for the suggestion!

I was going to spray my vocoder with Plasti Dip...

Update: I have ordered gloves and the Centurion rivet set from Joseph. The belt I'll be ordering from TKittell tomorrow. That should take care of all my soft goods. I ordered the rivet set just because since there's no clear way to strap the armor together since it's a game, I'm kind of just winging it. I'm thinking going straps and snaps and using the rivets to enhance the look. Question though. Should I document my build here or start a new thread?

Made my first cuts into plastic. Also started collecting scraps for ABS paste. Bucket has been filler primed to point out any low spots and pin holes. Will be filling them in today with spot putty.

Thanks! Ok I'm set! Now to start repairing!

Clear image of the Helmet.

Hi Gary. Thank you for the official stance in regards to the thread on the UKG forums. At this point I believe both sides of the issue in regards to the thread on the UKG forums has been discussed to the fullest for our purposes here on the FISD. So again, at this point the DCOGs are letting everyone know that this thread will need to be kept on target from this point forward. We would really like this thread to continue on for discussion in regards to the original post of Troopermaster recasting Cast from Original. If this thread derails then we will have no choice but to lock it and warnings may be issued. This will do nothing but circumvent the whole purpose of this thread which was Mark bringing this information to us and then to a hopeful response from Paul. Thank you.

Hi It’s just because there’s not been any activity on the thread so you have done nothing wrong. I’ll see if I can restore it for you

Best of luck, looks sharp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good Trooper Good luck with your application.

yeah, looks good to me.

Exact!!!. Like @TKSpartan says, most of us, (me included too), had never made an armor ... Watch a lot of videos, post a lot of photos, ask us a thousand times if it is necessary, and then, only if you are sure at 100%, cut...

You can see @joseph 's tutorial... Yes you can use a lot of products...But ,not containing acetone. Up to a little alcohol with Cotton swabs, or a wooden toothpick, depending on the amount of paint you want to remove... Regards...

Don't be like me and be afraid to start. Part of the reason my build is taking so long (besides life circumstances) is because my current build is my first full build and sometimes I hesitate since these kits aren't cheap and I felt it easy to make mistakes. Sometimes ill start on a section, get scared and move to something else. I post so many photos to try and get as much advice as possible. Yes, armor parties are helpful but you don't need them. Post pictures of what you want or trying to do, maybe mark areas on the photo with Microsoft paint (intended cut areas) and wait for advice.

I would like to ask everyone to please keep this thread on track. This is about TM recasting CFO. This thread is not about the differing opinions of UKG members. Thank you.

It's rainy again here in SoCal, so just wet sanding away but no fresh paint. I'm going to try to find plastic sheeting (and maybe a Husky crate!) at Home Depot some time this week so I can finally lay final gloss white soon. Feeling okay, just not motivated... Got my mic tips in from Tony/@ukswrath - I appreciated him reaching out to confirm that they were for R1 builds, so he left the interiors painted black for me. Sweet. The ones from Jim are fine, but the tip and mesh are cast in one piece, like the BS ones, so I chose to upgrade them on this fiberglass helmet and my BS conversion. Inspection of the new crate has also begun... Also kinda cool - was watching this week's episode of Disney Gallery - The Mandalorian, the behind the scenes documentary about the making of the show, and hey look - there I am on set without my helmet on! Neat. Still unsure what made Matt laugh so hard, but Kevin looks guilty as hell... Haha More updates this weekend hopefully!

Thanks Jeff!!

It's been a while, but I thought I'd share this anyway: The short film was so much fun that we can't stop. Bucketheads is continuing as a mini-series with the help of my Garrison brothers and sisters. Shane Molina from Hawaiian Mako Design created another poster for us. I'll keep you updated as the project moves on. You can also follow us on the socials @Bucketheadsfilm

If a picture paints 1,000 words then this photo review of @Hellhounds' rubber E-11 blaster will be an EU-expanse worth of information for any Trooper seeking a product comparable to the old Hyperfirms and the newer Praetorian blasters. The inspiration for this thread came from the fantastic comparison (thread) of a Hyperfirm (HFx) B-Grade rubber blaster verses that from Praetorian Blasters (PB), by @kman. In fact, the angles of my photographs are intended to replicate those used by kman, to provide the opportunity for close comparison of the three models. Essentially, these two threads should compliment each other. The Hellhounds Props (HHP) E-11s (among other blasters) are new as of October, 2019, and are currently available from Daniel directly, as well as from @TK-4510 on Trooperbay. As I understand it, this purchase is from the first run of a dozen blasters, and thus far there appear to be no user photos of these Hellhounds rubber E-11s on FISD. Daniel from HHP currently has threads mentioning his E-11 product here and here. Regarding Rubber Blasters For those of you unaware, these "rubber" blasters are actually constructed of a combination of foam and rubber, and may have some form of armature (solid framework) serving as the skeleton. The benefits of rubber blasters are primarily weight, durability, and safety. These rubbers are heavier than standard Hasbro and Rubies conversions, as well as most resin builds—providing a slightly more realistic helf—while still remaining light enough for hours of trooping. Fully metal E-11s can start to feel really heavy really quickly. As you'll see below, the HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz, or 2.19 lbs. Rubber blasters are also less likely to break if dropped, and if a component does come off, it will likely just need to be re-adhered, rather than reconstructed (resin or plastic may have cracked or shattered). Finally, rubbers are safer when trooping in close proximity to children who may wander outside the line-of-sight of a Trooper with a bucket on. A swing and impact of a rubber E-11 is less likely to injure innocent bystanders. The most obvious disadvantage of rubber props is that they are generally not as detailed and refined as their resin counterparts, but advancements in molding techniques are changing that. Now, to be clear, I am in no way associated with or being compensated by Hellhounds or any other blaster maker for this review; I am simply seeking to provide Troopers with data on a new product. Note, too, that throughout this post I will link to parts of the official FISD E-11 Blaster Reference thread (here is the Rogue One Reference), to provide additional insight and imagery. So, without further ado, open kman's thread below, split-screen your device, and feast your eyes on three types of rubber E-11s from this (US) side of the pond! NOTE: The images below may not appear as clear/crisp as they do at full resolution since the FISD/browser display compression isn't great. Clicking each photo will open a full-scale version which should present better clarity, at least in a web browser. HHP TOP DETAIL VIEW The Hellhounds Props (HHP) magazine appears to be closer in length to a Praetorian Blaster (PB), rather than the notoriously-shortened Hyperfirm (HFx). HHP appears to be just a hair shorter than PB, but I've also seen longer magazines on some images posted by Daniel on social media. Perhaps HHP magazine length is still being fine-tuned, but I may try to see if I can acquire a longer one. Additional, note that the HHP Hengstler counter includes the two soldering pins, while the PB and HFx do not. Finally, there is a HFx-quality seam on the HHP between the rail and top T-track, but the HHP T-tracks' quality and installation into the venting holes matches those of PB. HHP TOP VIEW Immediately obvious from this view is that the HHP has a static (non-movable) aluminum D-ring installed, similar to that from PB, but the PB version is rubber cast directly to the end cap. This HHP is similar to HFx in that it does not have a faux recoil spring behind the charging handle and bolt, like that provided by PB. Notice a slight tinge of brass on the scope, and a pretty minimal and clean seam line on top (much like PB). HHP FRONT VIEW This is where further distinctions are easily identifiable between the three blasters. In general, the HHP has cleaner lines than a B-Grade HFx, but PB comes out on top with the crispest lines and no visible seams. One of the HHP front scews is excellently made (PB quality level), and the other is adequate. The front sight is also correctly thin, matching that of PB and differing from HFx's thick block, and the HHP barrel bore dept on the HHP is 0.5" (1.27 cm). Note that, with blaster in-hand, the tip of the HHP appears cleaner than this close-up photo presents. Macro photography tends to reveal blemishes which would otherwise be indistinguishable to the naked eye from normal real-life use distances. HHP BACK VIEW As previously mentioned, the HHP includes an aluminum D-ring (woohoo level 3), while the PB included a molded rubber one, and HFx none at all. Once again, PB came out ahead with the most detailed knurling on the rear sight, followed by HHP, with HFx at the bottom of the pile. The rear end of the scope appears to be of similar quality on all three E-11s, and notice the more visible brass color on the rim of the scope (also present on the front, seen later). HHP RIGHT SIDE Stormtroopers and Femtroopers, I present to you, a METAL SCOPE RAIL, with open space underneath! You read that right. HHP finally provides us with an OT E-11 without a solid rubber rail, which was and still is the standard with HFx and PB. This was actually one of the two major factors in my decision to go with HHP (price was the other). Of course, doing so sacrifices the recoil spring and the clearing strip and extractor detail on the ejection port. Make note, too, that this HHP scope does not have the round knob on the right side. HHP LEFT SIDE An iconic angle of the E-11. The trigger guard appears to be of similar thickness to than on an HFx, which may be just a hair thicker than a PB. The guard feels very sturdy and I'd have no concerns holding my index finger on it during a long troop. The trigger itself is cut out in the same fashion as an HFx, with more open space below and behind it than that provided on a PB, and the HHP trigger feels a bit flexible, which leads me to believe it is cast in solid rubber. Additionally, aluminum appearance is present beneath the selector switch on the HHP, a detail left out by HFx but included by PB. HHP BACK QUARTER VIEW This perspective highlights the metal scope rail, though take note that the rail is thicker than it appears in this image (due to camera lighting). I spoke with HHP about the strength of the rail prior to purchasing, and Daniel assured me that it is solid—which I agree with. That scope isn't going anywhere, and I do not foresee any sag in the long-term. Notice the screw head on the underside of the rail, which secures the scope (a second is obscured from view by the counter). Additionally, this angle, once again, shows the magazine length, which is significantly longer than the HFx but perhaps just a hair shorter than the PB. And finally, two notes regarding the rear sight area. First, the horizontal retaining pin area has been molded as a recessed space on the HHP, as opposed to raised and textured (faux) pin on both the HFx and PB. Second, though not easily discernible in any of these images, there is a locking notch band at the end of the receiver tube on the HHP. HHP BOTTOM VIEW Another major differing point of this HHP blaster with PB (unsure of HFx), is that Hellhounds hollowed-out and split the arms (wishbone) of the folding stock. On the Praetorian the two arms are actually a solid piece molded with and surrounding the trigger guard. The second photo below shows this up-close. AWESOME! The only other distinguishing feature from this angle is the length of the magazine, and the already-discussed aluminum appearance beneath the selector switch. HHP EXTRA VIEW This angle shows several features which are missing from the HHP blaster but were included by PB and HFx. The ejector knob is missing on the HHP, as are some greeblies on the magazine which are present on the PB (but also not included on the shortened HFx mag). These omissions, and perhaps also some missing details on the front and rear of the power cylinders are perhaps the greatest shortcomings of this Hellhounds blaster. It's possible that the ejector knob fell off in-transit, so I will be reaching out to Daniel to inquire about a replacement/addition. On the plus side, the casting of the Hengstler counter appears very nice. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at @Hellhounds and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. In the meantime, he is planning on sending me those individual pieces to add on to my baster. HHP ADDITIONAL ANGLES The images from this point on are all from new angles not included on kman's Hyperfirm vs. Praetorian thread. They are intended to highlight the fine detailing present on these Hellhounds blasters, and will so provide a better view of the of the differences in the three rubber E-11 blasters. These first two images provide alternate angles of the mag well area, showing the lack of the ejector knob. The two soldering pins on the Hengstler counter are also visible. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. Notice the detailed inscriptions and oval inlay on the bottom of the magazine well, shown below. Very nice, as is the texture on the magazine itself. The two images below highlight the T-tracks, venting holes and folding stock. As previously mentioned, the T-tracks are smooth and straight. While I am not certain that the original Sterlings had such a texture on the stock metal, I definitely like the presence of the it as it adds to the weathering and could even be considered to be carbon scoring. "You boys have seen a lot of action..." The image below shows a close-up profile view of the muzzle screw, front sight, flash guard, and folding stock butt. Notice that, in the same fashion implemented by HFx and PB, and clearly for the purpose of providing structural support, the front sight is not hollowed out on the HHP. The two images below are intended to highlight the charging handle, ejection port and guard, and texture on the folding stock and grip. Note that, as already established, there is no recoil spring, clearing strip, and extractor on the HHP. However, the grip detail is fantastic. Additionally, other than the rubber trigger, the grip is the only other place on the blaster where flex can be found—on the smooth front and back. I suspect this may be intentional to provide comfort in-hand, and I like it. Below: End cap and D-ring from both sides. Also shows the end cap clip, scope rail, and rear sight again. The textured and inscription details on the back of the scope can be seen on the photos below. While there is some brass weathering, a little more would be nice. These two photos below highlight area around the front of the scope, showing the molded screws, metal rail, power cylinders, and the soldering pins on the Hengstler counter. Notice more brass color on the scope rim. The HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz (2.19 lbs or 0.99 kilos), comfortable for long troops. FINAL THOUGHTS By my assessment, the Hellhounds Props blaster situates itself right between the HFx Hyperfirm line and the Praetorian blaster. Overall the mold/seam lines are of better quality and more minimal than those on Hyperfirms, and approach or in some cases match those of Praetorian. A few details are missing on the Hellhounds, such as the recoil spring, magazine ejection knob, and greeblies on the magazine (EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch) and power cylinders, but conversely, HHP has included details not currently seen on OT blasters from Praetorian or Hyperfirm—a real metal scope rail and split arms on the folding stock! While this may not be the case forever, it is also worth noting that the Hellhounds E-11 is currently less costly than one from Praetorian. For me, this blaster was an EXCELLENT choice, and I would not hesitate purchasing from Hellhounds again. And there we have it. Hopefully this photo review can serve, in conjunction with kman's thread, as a valuable guide for any Trooper in the US considering purchasing a rubber E-11. Perhaps in the future I'll have the pleasure of owning more rubber blasters (DLT-19!) and be able to create additional comparison guides. I'd be happy to serve as a weaponry photographer/reviewer Amazon Vine Program style here on FISD. In case any of you missed the link near the top of this post, here is the FISD's official E-11 Reference Guide, followed by a Rogue One variant: Move along, move along... MV