Jump to content


Imperial Attaché[TK]
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won



About TheRascalKing

Member Title

  • Position

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Orange County, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Star Wars! Cars, cats, craft beer and brewing, food, firearms, scuba, surfing, downhill longboarding


  • Attache Achievement Award
  • Centurion Granted Date
  • EIB Awards
  • FISD Supporter
  • EIB Cohorts
  • FISD Kudos
    ANH Stunt, Hero, ESB and HWT Centurion

Standard Info

  • Name
  • 501st ID
  • 501st Unit
    Southern California Garrison
  • Troops Completed

Recent Profile Visitors

1,635 profile views
  1. The armor does not really have a return edge like ANH - it is just a thicker, flat edge in most places because the material is just thicker... Since the production suits aren't thin ABS like that, I would probably leave a very slight return edge to give it the look of thicker material. Hopefully not - to be clear, the ribbed suit on from Extreme Racing would not be accurate or approvable for RO - the ribbing is totally different. Good luck with your build!
  2. Hey and welcome! The thread title alone had me intrigued haha I'll go ahead and add another +1 for Mark of CfO - ROTJ armor is unique and his is definitely the best example of it. Unaware of any makers in Oz, so if it's going to be shipped anyways, might as well go for the good stuff. His prices and lead times are pretty reasonable by comparison as well. Good luck and let us know if we can help! Research and ask questions, but you're off to a good start obviously!
  3. Hey and welcome! Anyone know if BSP is still producing? I heard things went south and they're not around, if I remember right. Something to consider when purchasing, if the vendor is no longer active and supporting their armor... If not, great FOTK armor can be had from Imperial Surplus, KB Props, or Jimmiroquai... Good luck with your purchase and build! Research and ask lots of questions
  4. Frown and mic tips are a little off too. But it's far from the worst I've seen and probably not a BS recast. We actually talked about it at length on Facebook if this will let me link... https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10157819037026277&set=gm.639236870366079
  5. I'll take it one further and suggest packing cubes like these! Keeps all my soft goods together and organized, plus makes it easy to grab and go after washing and repacking, especially if you have multiple suits you use the same undergarments with. I use a medium one for my undersuit/neckseal/gloves/socks/etc, and a small one to keep my electronics/batteries together and organized.
  6. Excellent, and welcome! Where was the kit commissioned from? Looks good! I'd definitely put a little dab of E6000 at the front, bottom of that right thigh, then flip the ammo pack all the way up and let it glue - flaring it out a little will keep it from smashing your shin armor as much. If you don't already have mobility cutouts at the back of your knees, I'd highly recommend it. As always, reinforce your shoulder bridges. Keep the biceps nice and low and arm gaps tight for ESB, but they look like they're rotating, so a little tighter on the bicep straps, some hooks, or a another little dab of E6000 may be in order. Finally, when you build the belt, make sure it sits just below the ab button panel. Post more pics and we'll give you more feedback to have you looking your very best, but it looks like you're well on your way - congrats!
  7. Hey trooper and welcome! I don't believe I saw what type and maker of armor you have going? Let us know!| If it helps, here are some photos of how I do my strapping with Line 24 (15mm) snaps, based largely on the @wingnut65 diagram that's been around forever. The double snaps are very secure and comfortable! I'd also recommend adding some keeper clips to your posterior (not shown) if it tends to pop out like many of ours do. And what's up with your sniper knee? We'll try to help! Pics!
  8. Heyhey and welcome! You're in the right place haha AM is awesome armor, great choice! Just some quick notes/tips on it, if it helps: - remember that even though the kit is rough trimmed and has no cut lines, pretty much EVERY piece still needs to be trimmed at least a couple millimeters! Check all of your measurements and keep cutting/sanding away slowly - don't worry about the biceps being super oval - build and fully glue them, then hot water bath them into shape - reinforce your shoulder bridges! The extra pre-bent ABS that was originally included as plain 'Sandie' style bridges works well for gluing to the underside - AM's tube stripe stickers are a little dark, so either go with the Humbrol blue or replace them if you want to go for the brighter French blue ab button paint - I've also heard it said that their helmet decals' black outline is a little thick, so trim it before placing them if you want to go for super accuracy - mist some soapy water and 'float' them into place, then squeegee it out - it shouldn't hurt the stickers - remember to taper your forearm armor - it comes cut straight and really should be at an angle, getting more narrow at the wrists - ensure you cut off the 'crotch tab' that extends from the posterior armor - AM kits come with the parts needed to convert to ESB or Sandie as well, so if you keep that in mind for things like the belt, you can plan ahead for extra approvals if that's your thing... but don't panic if there are extra parts you don't know what to do with - save some scrap ABS for slurry in case of repairs, and save any extra ABS in general - AM is a very thick, bright white ABS that is a little tricky to match (not as bad as Anovos though) I'll try to post up if I remember any more offhand, but those are a few common AM-specific quirks that may help (I've built 3-4 of them recently)! Good luck - do lots of research and ask lots of questions, we're here to help!
  9. I'd be concerned that wouldn't be tall enough for the clamshell and thighs. I've seen guys make the Husky 25gal work with TKs though (no helmet), so maybe...
  10. You won't find a lot of foam or foam support around the 501st, as we strive to use materials that are, or at least appear, movie accurate. I've definitely seen a few nice printed ones though. Could always check over at the Pathfinders forum as well, since I don't think the E-22 has been approved for carry by any FISD costumes... yet...
  11. Just if anyone was curious, I removed the liners from my Endor Finders gloves the other day, as they were hot and difficult to get on and off (especially when sweaty). It was pretty easy to turn them inside out and cut along the wrist, then at the end of each finger tip, to remove the liner. You can see that the material is pretty shaggy, and I am glad I removed them. I'm starting to get a small hole at the wrist that I'll probably need to repair as a result of my mod, but still worth it for hot weather, imo.
  12. Just wanted to let y'all know that I ended up going with this bad boy for $134.66 off Amazon, including 720 black Line 24 snaps and a hole punch tool. It arrived very quick and I am VERY pleased with it so far. We'll see how it does for scaled production once I bolt it to my workbench shortly... MAYBE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0924TD4XM
  13. Appreciate the clarification, and let me know if I can be of any assistance!
  14. Sweeeeeet. Mods look good. I usually throw a little self-adhesive craft foam or fuzzy velcro on the back of my belt boxes to make them less jangly/likely to scratch my thighs too. I'm one of the ones that promotes the bedliner spray, but usually only to black out the helmet interior - I like the texture, but have no idea if it actually adds strength (an old episode of Mythbusters I saw inclines me to believe at least a little), but nowhere NEAR enough to help with the shoulder bridges. I've never seen it in white either... I cut some strips of spare ABS slightly more narrow than the bridges, then E6000 them in underneath after hot water bending them closer to shape. I've started extending them down into the chest a little more so the shoulder tabs don't just crack. It definitely helps - MAN are those things fragile!
  15. I used a drill and small drill bit to put multiple holes in the frown/tube stripe cutouts, then jeweler's/needle files to connect them and remove the excess. I didn't trust myself with the Dremel - it's tricky, as you've found. I too used some extra resin on the helmet and a light coat on all of the armor panels, but used Fibreglast 1110 vinylester resin so it would remain flexible (and it has). Let me know if you have any questions about Jim's kit and check out my thread (in my sig) for some light reading when you get bored. It was an adventure haha
  • Create New...