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About themaninthesuitcase

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    Detachment Leader

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    Herts, UK


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    UK Garrison
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  1. I only use PETG for my cosplay parts, though I keep looking at ABS now I have an enclosed printer.
  2. Still not started trimming as trying to find time is proving hard. I did have an issue that I thought was resolved but alas not. I ordered the Denuo Novo neck seal. It was actually the first thing to arrive but it was clearly not the right size. Seems I had been sent a 2XL that was marked up as an XL on the box and label. Whilst slow to reply to their support DN resolved this well and sent me a new seal in the correct XL I ordered, and when it turned up it was actually an XL. Alas that's not where it ends. After trying it on maybe 2-3 times the neoprene has torn 😢Hard to show but essentially where the seam is has cause the neoprene to tear: What I think has happened is the sewing has introduced a weak spot in the neoprene. Then as the velcro is pretty strong the force of un-doing it has caused it to tear. I really can't decide if I am going to make another claim at this point, or just write it off to experience. I probably should just make a 2nd claim but need to build my self up to do so. At least it would then match the included gaskets.
  3. Even just the helmet, and even with the fact it's going to be painted up, I'd still go with that forum. It's the closest we have and it might benefit others who want to do a Rebels build.
  4. Alcald quote a pretty low pressure, 15PSI from what I remember. I've not had this issue on my very cheap 0.4 nozzle air brush. When I got my best results it was with barely any paint actually coming out of the air brush, mostly just the air. This is a handy guide for alclad I used before: https://www.snmstuff.co.uk/alclad-ii-faq/
  5. Troop #26 - 08 June 2024 - Riverside Heroes And Villains Home troop time again! Was a nice day for the troop not too hot, not too cold. Was a pretty busy day and the time passed quickly. Did the whole day with only 1 break in the middle which isn't typical so was pretty tired at the end. Had 1 small issue: The flash hider fell off my E-11 as I got it out at the start of the day. Fortunately I found it quickly so will be able to glue it back on. Stephan Buckley TK-1902, Chris Pearson TK-10911, Wayne Cooper Smith TD-23152 Photo Ian Parlett TK-9352 Chris Pearson TK-10911 Photo Ian Parlett TK-9352
  6. Custom jigs is one of the best things about owning a 3D printer. Especially when you need to drill holes accurately or repeatedly.
  7. Update time. Whilst I finished about a year ago I never added the mount plate as I had a plan. Well I have actually completed that plan! Shocking I know. I'll start at the end and show how I got there, please excuse the wrong screws I need to get some M5 Security Torx as I don't apparently have any. The plate is actually 2 plates, or more accurately PCBs. Yes PCBs for making electronics. Aluminium PCBs are now a thing, and come in the perfect thickness (1mm in this case) and most importantly are pretty cheap. These cost around £9 plus shipping for enough to make 5. They are designed in KiCad to fit the horseman TFA blaster, I assume the TLJ is the same but I've not made one yet to confirm. They arrive as 2 plates, a front and a rear. The front side of each is a brushed aluminium, the back is a white PCB solder mask, with black silkscreen and hidden message in the copper layer (for the first order in besh). Also a logo because why not. I then use a 3D printed jig to CA glue them together to make the final plate. This is a little fiddly but only takes a few minutes, and a drill to drive the screws speeds things up. The result is pretty stiff, the individual parts less so. Next is mounting them. Problem is the horseman files have no pre located holes for the screws, which I pre added to the plates to fit the @R2Dan holster. The solution to this is more 3d printing. I created a jig that locates where the plate fits and allows me to drill the holes perfectly. Step one is to secure the jig. I use the "super glue and masking tape trick". Essentially you are about to make some low tack double sided tape. Apply a strip of low tack masking tape to the blaster And to the bottom of the jig and trim the excess Apply a few dabs of CA glue to the bottom of the jig and hold in place until secure. You can use accelerator if that's your thing, I didn't as I want to worry what the spray might do to the paint. We're using an M5 bolt, so the correct size hole is 4mm, well 4.2mm but close enough for what we are doing. Ensure you mark the depth so you don't get carried away. I allowed for a depth of around 12mm which should give enough meat for a secure mount. Drilling out holes in 3D prints cuts into the infill. This now leaves you with a really terrible screw interface, and it will probably rip right out. So to make this significantly stronger we're going to fill the hole we just drilled with 5 minute epoxy and leave it overnight. Apply some more masking tape, trim the holes and fill with epoxy. You might want a tooth pick to help poke it in and let the air out. It will need more then you expected as it spreads out into the print and fills the cavities in the infill. Try not to get any on the blaster, if you did like me: it's now weathering. Though in all seriousness no one will notice, as it cures very clear but just try be tidy as you will know it's there and it will haunt you. Once cured, setup you drilling jig and do it all again. You now have 2 4mm holes in epoxy not 3D printed infill. Hooray. Now if you're bored, glue on the pate screw in the bolts and call it good. If you're extra like me, continue. We have a 4mm hole, not an M5 hole and that will not do. So now print a 2nd jig, identical to the first, but with a 5mm hole in it. Mount this and use an M5 tap to cut a perfect M5 thread. The epoxy cuts well, especially if you leave it a few days to fully cure whilst the tap arrives from eBay. You don't need anything fancy, £4.88 on eBay plus a tap handle if you haven't got one. We're not cutting steel here. Do not be tempted to use a drill to drive the tap. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering... Preferably don't drop the tap and scratch your paint, allegedly. Use some white paint to touch up the alleged paint chip. For extra points apply a light countersink to the hole. Though you probably should do this before tapping. I am not a machinist, I won't judge. Glue the plate on and screw in the screws. And you are done! How accurate is this method? Perfectly accurate... and they are perfectly straight too.
  8. Basic confirmed for @stormztrooper1 +1 and @Crow2xs +1 New total: 15
  9. Welcome to FISD and congratulations on your new Incinerator. Make sure you request your 501st Stormtrooper access
  10. I've removed this from the Over skirt section. Otherwise the rest is unchanged.
  11. At this time all First Order armour kits require at least some filling of seams to be clearable. The holster can be found here, though a non-functional one is included in the DN kit. A full list of resources is here in the First Order section
  12. Update for relaunch Total 16 points, 2 more EIB and you make Master! It sounds like you may have had a part in some basic clearances as well if those can be confirmed you would be able to earn some extra points there also. Jim @gijim - TK-28888 - MTK ANH Stunt - EIB - 2 points Grave Wong @MrGrave - TK-36036 - MTK ANH Stunt - EIB - 2 points Billy Au-Yeung @baysk - TK-71814 - Anovos ANH Stunt - EIB - 2 points Henry NG @Henry Ng - TK-12762 - Anovos ANH Stung - EIB - 2 points Peter Lee @TK28228 - TK-28228 - RS ANH Stunt - EIB - 2 points Galton Ho @Galton - TK-28823 - TM ANH Stunt - EIB - 2 points Tiffany Wong @rabbitiff - TK-92230 - MTK ANH Stunt - EIB - 2 points Gary Ng @TK66124 - TK-66124 - RS ANH Stunt - EIB - 2 points
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