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themaninthesuitcase

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About themaninthesuitcase

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  • Position
    Provost Marshall l Attache

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  • Website URL
    http://www.cpearson.me.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Herts, UK

FISD Info

  • FISD Service Medals
    3
  • Attache Achievement Award
    1
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20160610
  • EIB Awards
    1
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    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Chris
  • 501st ID
    10911
  • 501st Unit
    UK Garrison
  • Troops Completed
    10

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  1. The batteries are also powering the Pi? So when both fans are off you have no power at all. Current will be what it needs on the fan. If you apply 5v it will draw as much as it takes to spin up. I’m not exactly sure what the aim is here. If you describe what the goal is then maybe we can figure it out. If needed we can start drawing a proper schematic. Feel free to PM me if you want as well as I am about to heat to bed as it’s now tomorrow here.
  2. Are the two lines next to the 14k the batteries? And the white lines switches? So when you switch the switch you apply current to the base and so the fan turns on? So seems okay ish. Not sure what the two potential dividers are doing for the 2.6v though. Could be that that’s the issue.
  3. You really did a great job on this one Justin. Easily the smoothest merch group run I’ve done on my end. The packing was awesome and really made the local distribution easier. The stamp was also cool
  4. Just a gloss white. All systems will have one. The Humbrol enamel is a little more on the yellow where a Tamiya is more of a pure white. For an ABS armour the slightly yellow colour works but for a acrylic capped a purer is probably going to look a bit better. If your worried about accuracy the humbrol enamel is probably the one you want.
  5. I've done that fix with standard CA glue before. I don't know how well the gel type would soak into the fabric. My tip for these is to put a few drops one first and press the fabric into that to get it where you need it. Then you can start to flood the area, but pay attention to the edges as they have a habit of curling up if you're not careful. Once dry and cool, it will get quite warm, run over the area with some 120-320 ish sand paper to just take of any points that can catch things.
  6. Just seen this one "- Election Archives ????????" That feels like it should be left alone. Given what it is it should be a correct historical record warts and all.
  7. Congratulations, welcome to the team.
  8. Projects not dead, just a bit slow going. I've assembled some of the body armour but I'm not overly happy with it. I might end up re-printing it and rebuilding. Also COVID weight. Small child back armour for 70% scale. This is a little pinched in at the sides which is "sub optimal". Again not overly happy with how the body sections have come out as whole so will re address these later. I have started on the fore arms which I'm a lot happier with. The resin printer has done some fine work on the detail parts. I have modded the rail section to allow for a screw at the top to match the screen used props. I wasn't happy with the shape of the holes in the raised bits so have made a small part which was cut in to replace the original one. Not a huge difference, and you'd never notice from more than a meter away but it made me happier. The helmet has also been in the corner staring at me being all oversized and a pain to assemble. So I took a punt on the Hasbro black series helmet. Clearly not clearable out of the box, but as a canvas I think it will work. Some holes need to be filled and some holes need to be made. When I can I'll get some isographic images and compare the helmet with the one sold at auction a year or so ago. First impressions are: It goes on my head which is never a given. The strapping supplied is awful It's rather heavy compared to what I am used to in the OT bucket But it looks pretty decent
  9. I don't like Dremels on plastic, I find it tends to melt not cut. For ABS armour I either used score and snap, or for curves lexan scissors. If I need to clean up I used either files or sand paper. You also don't need to go crazy with sanding, just a quick pass with something int the 180-320 region to take off any sharp bits. The lexan scissors can be a bit hard going on the hands so some metal snips might be a pretty good choice!
  10. Congratulations Eric. Thanks to all of you who took part, there was some great entries to pick through.
  11. I've figured out a way to mount the battery now, and it all just about fits. The final item is a bit different from the images below as I've added a rear foot to help keep the mount level in the blaster as it was tipping due to the batteries weight. I am considering changing the foot design again to make it easier to print with less support. The battery will be attached to the sled with high strength double sided tape, either a VHB or some gorilla tape I have. Note: no rear foot yet! The sled also has a slotted hole for the screw so it actually ends up clamping the charge board in place as well. The end cap will be mounted via magnets to a plate that will be glued inside. There is a small cut out for the screw that holds the silver bit on, and a recess for the on/off switch to sit in. Today I was looking at a photo of a rank of TLJ F-11Ds from production to replicate the piccatiny rail and mount and noticed 2 extra holes. So clearly I needed these on my blaster. I started out by measuring and marking out based on the images. I measured the existing holes to be 12mm so predrilled with a 3mm pilot drill. Next up was a 12mm forstner bit, so I was about to either have a nice hole or a ruined blaster. Ominous forbidding.... 12mm was too big, it looked HUGE compared to the standard holes. I swapped to 10mm wood spur drill for the front, then stepped up to 11mm with a step drill and looked pretty much spot on. To fix this was a hassle. First I cut a small piece of 1mm styrene, bent it slightly and then super glued this behind the hole. This was then filled with a 2 part filler in 2 passes. I used some masking tape to minimise the area this affected, and removed it whilst the filler was still soft. To sand down the filler I used a sanding stick to ensure that I kept the filler level to the barrel and no big gouges or lumps where left. I then re-marked the hole and re drilled with the 10mm wood drill. The step drill was too long for the rear hole, the front had an opening on the other side, so it only cut about half way through. To finish I used a small round file and a pen wrapped with sand paper to clean it up. To finish the repair I sprayed on a couple of coats of filler primer. Again to minimise the impact I masked off most of the barrel so that I only sprayed the repair area. Once this has dried I will sand out the area again to smooth out the lip left from the tape. There's a small mark visible up close but the end result is pretty good and won't be visible unless you're looking up close.
  12. I've raised this in the staff area and we will come up with a new approach.
  13. Hi, The archives are not a public forum, only admins have access. @Dark CMF put it brilliantly "Yeah, archives are/have always kind of been like the areas behind the scenes in a museum. There is probably some cool stuff there, but it isn't meant for public viewing. That's why the stuff gets archived." If you can point me to specific thread links we can look at those specifically and see if they should be moved somewhere publicly available. Chris FISD DOCG.
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