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Thanks and waiting on D Rings to arrive in the mail. Photos soon!

Hey @LTM, I think you were looking for Caleb's thread?

The sides could use some trimming, Ken. You should be able to remove at least as much as I have highlighted below and be good, just remember to follow the contours of the cheek. Your gaps (or lack thereof) on the tops are beyond perfect, (), but don't forget that some gaps are not only allowed, but expected. Trim in small increments. It's easy to take it off, but putting it back on is another story. lol. Nice job on the ear screw alignment! You would have no issue with this passing at Basic or EI, but for level 3 we would probably ask that the lines be cleaned up a tad. A soft bristle Filbert brush can do wonders!

I guess I should show some progress! Essentially the main body is all ready for final prime and paint. All the small detail parts I want to reprint on my Elegoo Mars resin printer but need to finish sorting the spare room for it first. The last furniture should arrive tomorrow so I may be able to start next week with any luck. I was running it in the conservatory but the light levels in there are not just far too high to be using a UV curing product. I just need to find some curtains for that room! Took a while to get to this point as I am having to learn how to sand. Sound stupid but knowing what grits to use and when to change is actually harder than it sounds. Also I think I have a habit of going too course which doesn't really do as much other than leave deep scratches. I think I am going to make 150 my "heavy" grit for PLA work from now on, the 120 just was too aggressive.

Somehow missed this thread while you were working on it, but PHENOMENAL job. Seriously Joseph and I could not find a single thing wrong with it. Very inspiring.

Maybe I can finish up and skip basic and go for EIB. Would be cool to be part of the first 1k! I need non-seam boots - and I just saw that Imperial opens back up next week! I think I'm going for this!!!

Hey party people, Justin "TheRascalKing" R. here. Decided to do another fun little side project with my Anovos ANH-S TK before retiring it and... convert to ESB! This was originally intended to be done in time for Celebration 2020 and the 40th Anniversary of The Empire Strikes Back, but it's looking that isn't going to happen now, so I guess no rush? But I recently started step #1, which was acquiring another Anovos helmet that I feel better about painting up. Not a huge deal, but my original ANH-S helmet is getting pretty beat up and I'd like to retire it without major changes before it's completely destroyed, seeing as it was technically screen-used and all. I was fortunate that a Garrison mate of mine had an Anovos helmet laying around that he sold to me for a great price! So, slowly but surely (wrapping up my Anthology build as well as my HWT Centurion push) I'll start modifying this helmet to convert it over to ESB, as well as my armor. My checklist is as below, but please feel free to comment if I've forgotten anything! It should be noted that this kit was previously approved at the Centurion level as ANH-S a couple years ago, and as HWT more recently, so I'll be focusing on the changes between ANH-S and ESB - the rest of the armor should already be up to snuff. This is also a screen-used kit, so no changes were made to the base suit - anything different for ESB is new parts. Helmet: - Remove all existing paint (except ears, no need) *reconsidering, as the decals are lighter grey... Apparently, this is appropriate. - Replace painted traps, tears, and tube stripes with decals from Trooperbay (unless there's something that fits Anovos helmets better?) - Repaint frown satin black, extending slightly further - Paint interior black (personal preference) and add padding/fans/audio - General Centurion upgrades (replace ear screws with proper countersunk flathead from @justjoseph63's accuracy kit, replace mic tips with @ukswrath ones with white lip/interior and proper mesh, open up the return around the eyes...) Armor: -Belt - new white canvas belt from Imperial Surplus to get rid of my 2 holster mounting holes - Holster - new holster from Darman's Props - black loops instead of brown leather straps and Chicago screws, worn on left side - Gloves - satin gloves from Amazon - Handguards - snowtrooper-style handguards (I sourced a set from AM that I'll trim down) Here are a few side by side photos of a fresh like V3 Anovos helmet (left) vs my Centurion-modified V1 after 3 years of trooping (right), for fun. The newer helmet (that has the LFL branding stickers) is noticeably thinner than my V1 and has a couple other changes from the factory, most noticeably the sharper ear bumps and thinner plastic. It is lighter tho... Thanks for stopping by, more updates in a bit!

No problem. We'll be here when you're ready!

Yes, the back joint as I marked in red in the above photo, the trimming is as you have said, test an adjust. glue the inner cover on the front and test, I think a good tip would be to test together with each bicep (Blue Pinter's tape) and see the shape. Measure twice or more, cut once and glue once Just a short story : when I was building my armor, ( as you, I built it alone, just browsing this forum) , I searched the web looking for several Stormtroopers images to figure out how I wanted to look like and I feel It worked for me to get the best shape.

I think the distinction lies between the those stationed on Cloud city and those poor souls stationed on Endor. No dirt/soil to stain while serving on a floating city, but tons of Ewok scat to wade through takes a toll on the color of the soles.

Yes, you can cut at the red line and If you feel there's enough room on your forearms , you can make adjustment on the back seams. This is a Tip taht a fellow trooper @Cricket gave in another building thread "If you haven't shaped your forearms yet, may I offer a tip? (I remember how badly oval-shaped the WTF forearms are.) I suggest assembling the fronts of the forearms together first by gluing an inner cover strip. Tape the heck out of the outside seam, though. This will allow you to clamshell-fit your forearm securely for width. All sizing adjustments for width take place on the back seams. Once you've got it properly sized and trimmed for width, glue an inner cover strip to the inside back seam (taping the heck out of the outside seam again). Then boil up some water and knock that oval into rounded submission! Inner cover strips add a lot of strength to the forearms, and allows you to get some decent hot-water shaping done without falling apart. " This is how thy should go together Cheers

Hi Emma , You're right, cover strip will cover the join line. And about the arms I have found the following WTF build thread that I think could be useful for you for other build issues. there's this following photo showing the order of arms. Keep on doing an excellent work, and remember you're not alone. Here in FISD. No one left behind.

Thank you for your kind words! Many generous people here helped with really good advice and guidance!

If the silver pops out too much for your taste, just dull it down with a black (or brownish) washing. Carefully dabbing the wet paint will leave some residue at the right places to also make that bolt look aged and weathered.

Got a couple nifty new 3D printed parts from my buddy and his resin printer. They were found on Thiniverse here: Sterling SMG. A very detailed Sterling with another file of parts to turn it into an E-11. They are an excellent match to everything I wanted to fix on my Doopydoo. Kudo's to TK14082 for this great design. I have also threw on a coat of primer on the main parts and started painting some of the smaller bits.

This is Absolutely Spectacular. Congratulations Jasper.

How does my Vocoder look? Curious about the sides of the outside bars. If I paint them the bars look really WIDE from the front. Please advise

Congratulations welcome to the rank.

One forearm and bicep trimmed! It looks like I will need to keep my cover strips at 20mm for the biceps to be comfortable while bending my arm. I don’t want to go any tighter and chance them not fitting. How does the fit look?

Only 33?????...OMG...I know there are a few troopers in my Garrison who will soon receive their armor...They will be here soon, I hope...

Congratulations Eric and Jasper. Wow, it's getting close! The rest of you working hard, keep at it and you'll help push it over the top. A.J.

Sanded the black interior to 800 and applied a 2nd coat. Tomorrow I'll tape off the openings from the inside and spray my last coat of primer!

Once again congratulations trooper, superb build and applications, welcome to a very small group of FOTK EI's & Centurions, well done

Appears constistantly off white/tan, only the soles though and not the actual boots, so who knows

Just a quick note to congratulate our latest additions to the ranks of Expert Infantry. Way to go, Troopers! 1. Eric Foehner- (GoofTrooper) TK 34723 ANH Stunt 2. Jasper Tan- (merkava74) TK 7867 TFA

I hope you realize that once your 501st approval is granted that I am expecting even more great things from you here on the FISD, Caleb.

UPDATE: This post has been moved to a separate thread (linked below) within the Getting Started forum. Topics covered on that post remain below in green for reference. Here is a direct link: OP (MV) Post #21 In addition to documenting my journey and seeking help with my TK build, another one of my intentions with this thread is to provide future builders with a helpful resource for ATA and general (any armor maker) OT TK builds. To that end, this will be a RESOURCE POST containing reference links and documents which have been insightful to me, as well as helpful build threads. My intention will be to continue to update this list as my progress continues and I come across additional resources. NOTE: I am considering starting a new thread with this content. Would that be more helpful to the general TK community? Perhaps this post could serve as a draft, and feedback could be given? What do you think, @justjoseph63, king of TK tutorials? Getting Started or Tutorials & Tips forum? Working title: "2020 Index of Tips, Tutorials, and Build and Request Threads for OT TKs" 501st Legion Links: FISD Forums Getting Started Forum Pinned Threads (selection) Supply Lists Build Tips and Resources Strapping Systems Photo References Helmet/Bucket/Lid Interior Armor Cleaning, Sanding, & Shining Armor Yellowing Image Posting E-11 Blaster Armor Storage/Transport FISD and Stormtrooper Supplemental Posts Recasting ANH Stunt Build Threads (WIPs) ATA Build Threads (WIPs) Pre-Approval Requests EIB & Centurion Informational Threads EIB Requests Centurion Requests Purchase Options (my build) Alternative Accessory Options: Other External Resources Quote Response: Justin - Thanks for all those notes; super helpful! I've seen several people mention reinforcing shoulder bridges, so that's definitely on my to-do list. I'm also going to do my best to stay true to screen-used ANH armor return edges (or lack thereof), while also balancing that with ensuring the armor does look like cheap flat plastic sheets. Oh, and obviously comfort will play a part as well, and I'm planning on using the clean angled mobility cuts behind the knees which Mark from AP employs. And lastly, a belt sander is on my wish list, as I currently only have a palm sander, which won't be good for maintaining straight lines.

I made a few revisions per these screen grabs: 1. Flap filter box. Per the game, the box is shorter and the base has an upside-down U-shape where the vents fit into. I have made a new file to reflect this. It is not what is shown in the current CRL (its closer to the ukswrath construction of the flaps in the center of the box) but the CRL also says to make it as close to screen captures as possible... so thats what I'm going with unless its going to cause problems with approval. 2. Tombstone FIlter Box. I have revised the angle to be a little sharper and I have moved the faceplate down further per the game. Again, I'm basing my parts on the screen captures more than the CRL, but per the CRL itself making it as close to the game is the goal. 3. Button box. The screen grabs show the button box to be about the same length of the wipe tube. The thread with the specs show that this part can be up to 200mm so I maxed it out at that dimension, which is about the same height as the wipe tubes that I'm using. The button plate isn't exactly centered in the middle either so I have made mine the same. One other concern I have is the screw/rivet holes in the corner of each part. I can't really see these on the screen grabs. I think most of the pack builds I see use screws to attach a face plate to the plastic bins used for each component and are therefore necessary for construction. As an added bonus I think they add a little more depth and detail to the pack. In the spirit of matching other HWT I'm leaving my pre-cut holes in my files for screws/rivets to be added unless this should be omitted for accuracy?

The upgrade is complete! A few issues needed overcoming, annoyingly I suspect these could have been avoided if I had done an extruder calibration before I printed the upgrade parts. I was only printing 94% of the material I was asking for so everything is a shade small, meaning holes are a tad loose. Managed to work round them all and it's working so I'll leave alone for now but I'll need to reprint a fair amount of parts and rebuild at some point. The part fan is getting a bit loud which may force my hand at some point, so I'll start getting some of the parts I need in stock as time allows. Loving the new quiet cooling fan as well as the flex bed and filament sensor. Really should have done this when it first came out. Also swapped to the 0.6mm nozzle which should speed stuff up a reasonable amount, First on the print bed was a size test for the helmet. Basically take a slice of the helmet around the eyes and print it and see if it will fit or not. Printing on 0.35mm layers, fast with 5% infill to really smash them out. Don't need to be pretty just exist so I can try them on.

Haven’t got as much done this month as I was hoping. Health has limited me to 3-4 hours per week, but it’s better than nothing! Got the thighs and shins in progress, and I’m measuring them up to final trim and assemble using the dimensions from the RS suit as a starting point. How does this look size wise? Note: shins will be a little low due to lack of boots. I think the thighs are maybe a tiny bit too large at the top, and I definitely need to cut out the backs a little. Shins might be a tiny bit too large, but it’s hard to tell with the overlap since I haven’t trimmed the back at all yet. Also, as you might have noticed, got the belt nearly done with help from my wife. Just needs a dab of glue to keep the drop box straps in place: And, puppy (helmet is my wife’s btw)

Outstanding news Jasper, can't wait to see those EI and Centurion banners under you avatar. Congratulations on your Garrison approval

Well my son was born a few weeks ago and I was on nesting house projects prior to that. But as mom and baby sleep, I have started on my armor again. I have trimmed all of the armor and need to sand but have a question about the arms and bicep covers. I should be able to use 15mm but do y’all use 7.5mm per half? Or 8mm and 7mm?

I figured as stereolithography printing is much cleaner than standard pla ground-up printing. None of the print lines and typically it's a little bit stronger. With standard pla prints if you do not have your bed leveled correctly then the layers can separate sometimes especially if your bed is warped. so I figured stereolithography would be a very safe bet for something that will be carried around while trooping

You will LOVE the print quality from Imperial Factory. @wilsoncai is a standup guy, I personally have the SE-44 and now F-11D.

*****Update***** Hey yall, just wanted to update everyone. I placed my order with Dave on a full commission build!