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Eric Ostendorf

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About Eric Ostendorf

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  • Birthday 08/27/1986

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    Tulsa Oklahoma


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  • 501st ID
  • 501st Unit
    Oklahoma Garrison

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  1. Thanks for the compliments! This has been rolling around in head for a while and its really nice to see it getting a lot of hits on Thingiverse already. I'm going to drop a quick edit with the link on my first post of this thread and I'm going to drop it onto the 3d printed parts board too. As for approval, I think the only part that might cause issues would be the flap vent box. I think its the most different looking component of the batch but even then with a screenshot of the game pack and some conversation with your GML I would imagine it would be fine. Also
  2. Annnnnnd its live on Thingiverse! If you see any changes I need to make or suggestions for new parts I'm open to ideas. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4462006
  3. Second pack is assembled! I'm *almost* ready to release the files. I need to tweak a couple parts and that's it! Assembly of my second pack went pretty much the same as the first. Cut out the back of the oil can (an oscillating saw worked wonders for this), plug the top hole with my 3d printed plate, attach the side PVC tube with my clamps and 1/4"-20 screws, lay out parts on the can, use doubled sided tape to hold the parts in place while I screwed them in from the back (use a hole saw and/or step bit to cut some access holes for your drill), then attach the straps.
  4. Everything is printed so its paint day! The PVC tube was painted and assembled a couple years ago when I did the first one so one less part to paint this time around. I have found a couple parts that need a little tweaking of the files but otherwise everything else is working out nicely. Parts laid out. Don't mind the VW vents or the Mando Gaunts. While this batch of parts were drying I assembled my radio. For the CRL pack, I cut the memories box down to 2.5" tall and glued it together with hot g
  5. I hadn't planned on it since its such a large part to try to 3d print. It would have to be sliced into several small sections, glued together, the seams hidden, and painted. I think it may end up being too fragile and/or too heavy, which is the beauty of building on the pre existing oil can. But if none are easily available then you may have to just make do with whats available or use a different container? The CRL is just a guide, the base doesn't have to match perfectly and maybe Australia just needs a different "standard base" due to availability. Here is this oil can: https
  6. I actually hadn't seen that thread, or at least not recently enough to remember it! He is seeing a lot of the same things that I am. I'm trying to match the game parts but still be sympathetic to the CRL in the hopes that I can still get it approved. If not, I still have the files from most of my gen 1 parts that are very close to the CRL parts so I shoudln't have any trouble. When I release the files I'm going to release it with both variations of CRL and Game versions.
  7. The round back on the wipes container is a little tricky. The best way is to pre drill holes and put just the very pointy tips of screws through to jab into the wipes container, and then screw it all the way down. Only after the wipes container is on the oil can, then is the time to put on the face plate. Its hard to get the wipe bottle on the can straight after the cover plate is screwed on... whoops. The button plate is actually a separate part. I made it that way so that it would be easy to paint because I hate masking parts when I can just let the printer spend an extra couple hours
  8. And one more part - the full wipe tube as a 3d printed part. It is 200mm tall to match the height of the button box and modeled to match the game with the full height faceplate but also has four holes for screws/rivets like on the CRL. I know finding cleaning wipes can be very difficult with the coronavirus going around so I went ahead and made a file for anyone that can't find an off-the-shelf tube to use. Or if people just want to print one for style points or because they don't want to buy one or whatever. It is in three parts for ease of painting: body, lid, and faceplate.
  9. Thanks for the feedback! I've been busy with other things the last few days but I'm almost ready to start printing my second batch of parts. I figure a week or two of printing, tweaking my files if they need it, and then they'll be released. I have slightly changed the lower radio box panel to match the game a little closer. The square on the lower left corner is now raised with holes in it for rivets or screws. I'm saving the original files that more closely match the CRL images for anyone that may have issues getting it past their GMLs or for personal preference. The rad
  10. Thank you everyone for the compliments so far! Drawing this in CAD with the aid of build threads and specs from here on FISD and 3D printing most of the parts has really helped me make this a sharp looking pack! I couldn't do it without all the resources available! My local garrison did a social distancing outdoor drive through con a few days ago so I got to try out my pack! Overall everyone liked it and it mostly worked well. I need to move the straps in and up just a hair and tighten them some so the pack rides higher on my back. The buckles are placed too high and they ru
  11. I have the pack pretty much assembled! I have a troop here in a few hours so I'm going to wear it to try it out. If the pack isn't comfy due to strap placement or whatever, I'll be able to ditch it nearby without any issues. First I bought some nylon straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H1D15LZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I then used a regular backpack strap to get a rough idea of how long I needed it and where to put the buckle. After cutting and melting/sealing the ends, I put super glue on about 1" of the strap and folded it
  12. I got my nylon straps in the mail to make the shoulder straps. I also noticed I forgot to cover the hole on the top of the oil can from where I cut the drain spout off of. I just whipped up a simple plate that will just screw or rivet over the hole. Should look spacey enough. Looks pretty good IMO. I did a sloppy job hacking the oil spout off so this covers it nicely. The shine and screw heads will get painted/weathered when I get to that phase, of course.
  13. Dang, how did I miss that? Easy enough to fix at least. Thanks! EDIT: You're right that the game model shows 5 but the CRL pack shows 7. Weird! I'm going to go ahead and change it to 5 in the name of accuracy. The tube stripe on my existing pack is 7... but its superglued on so I think I'm just going to live with it on that pack unless its an approval issue. Also, I will indeed be painting all the exposed screw heads black during the weathering phase before submitting. The shiny bits would definitely stick out too much otherwise!
  14. I made a few revisions per these screen grabs: 1. Flap filter box. Per the game, the box is shorter and the base has an upside-down U-shape where the vents fit into. I have made a new file to reflect this. It is not what is shown in the current CRL (its closer to the ukswrath construction of the flaps in the center of the box) but the CRL also says to make it as close to screen captures as possible... so thats what I'm going with unless its going to cause problems with approval. 2. Tombstone FIlter Box. I have revised the angle to be a litt
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