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Name: Ardeshir Radpour Username: equuspolo TK-42128 Southern California Garrison Los Angeles Squadron Armor Maker = Anovos - I Custom Built the Kit Helmet Maker = Anovos - I Custom Built Interior- I Rebuilt Exterior Blaster Type = E-11 Made by QuestDesignCanada - fully customized DLT = 2DPrintMerchant Kit, and Praetorian Height = 5'10 Weight = 165 Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Weapon Pack = CrookKnight's Imperial Trooper Packs Canvas Belt = I Custom Made The Belt Hand Plates = Trooper Bay rubber latex plates with Rubber Gloves, Also, Anovos Hard Plates and Neoprene Gloves. Electronics = Icomm, UKSWrath Amp, UKSWrath Hovi Tips, Custom Fans/Battery Pack, MP3 Player, Also Wireless Mic, Wireless Aker Amp,/Speaker Neck Seal Type = Stormtrooper Undersuit, molded piping Pouches = Custom Made. Pauldron = Trooper Bay

Good question belloq, I am curious to find out myself. My doopydoos E-11 weighs in at 1.12 kg so approximately, 2.24 lbs.

Winner winner, roasted Kowakian monkey dinner!!!!! WIll post pics soon. May bump any further info to the weapons / DLT-19 build pages. I will have a TON of questions there, because I also have the Blast-FX sound / lighting packages to install in the DLT and my E-11. Ohhh, boy. Another project!

The Art of Star Wars - TROS

Cheers for that advice! I haven’t removed much material at all yet so adding the curve in won’t be an issue.

Shoulder Bell Modification: As previously noted, the Shoulder Bells in this kit have the lower bells molded in. After removing the faux lower bells, I cut 1.5mm ABS as replacements using the basic shape I’ve seen in other build threads. Using a heat gun, I bent these to roughly match the Shoulder Bells and then affixed with CA glue. Unsure if I should trim further or lease as-is.

Ok, so I am going through that Basic process, and will be back to this as soon as that is done. Thank you guys for everything. I had no idea that was the case and I apologize and appreciate all of the guidance from everyone here. Love the 501st. Thank you guys for all of your help.

@T-Jay is spot on about the blasters. I have built several using the Doopydoos resin kit from the UK, and they can definitely take some time. The good thing about those is that, being resin-cast, the amount of sanding/prep is about 95% less than doing a 3D print one. They are also extremely accurate, especially if you want to go for the details. He may be shy about mentioning it, but Tino provides a FANTASTIC E-11 finishing kit to go to the next levels of realism. I've used them a few times, and the difference is amazing! This thread may also help.

Q - Jorge, are you really gonna post up every print pic? A- Yeah, what else am I supposed to do. I have a lot of time in between prints!

Hey Shaun and apologies for not thinking to say this sooner, when trimming the bells you should idealy trim them with a curve. Perhaps not as wavy as the back of this ex. Also, to get the bells to fit right you need to keep the biceps as small as you can (not too small as they need to be proportioned to the rest of the suit) Bottom of the bicep should idealy be smaller than the elbow end of the forearm. Lastly, my advice would be to try and avoid any hot water treatment unless you really and I mean really have to! The pinching of the shoulder bell is one of the things that gives the suit an organic feel, just as it was intended by the sculptor that invisioned the armor to look as it had grown onto the body. Same as trying to make the bicep and forearms rounded, they are meant to be oval as that is the general shape of the actual limbs. TK-awesomness

Build is being put on hold till my TK ANH STUNT is done but I have ordered the backpack and should be here in 2-3 weeks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome Erina! I'm 5' 3" and the WTF kit fits me great, but most kits are flexible enough that they can be sized up or down as needed. I have a regular helmet and I don't *think* I look like a bobblehead, so I think you should be fine with the helmet.

I see this topic come up a lot and I have not seen a comparison so I thought I would do one. Please keep in mind that my knowledge on this subject is limited and I do not have any experience with OT TKs. So the obvious… Rogue One TKs are more detailed than OT. As far as I know, all the OT TKs were vacuum formed in High Impact Poly Styrene (HIPS). This process requires a buck (mold) that heated plastic is laid over then sucked to the buck by vacuum. This is a fast and efficient method of mass producing these costumes; however, the trade off is that all detail is minimalized and designed so that the formed plastic can be removed without damaging the buck. For this reason, parts like the helmet and forearms are formed in parts rather than one solid object. Consider an ANH forearm, the rectangle details are not very well defined. There are 2 parts to the forearm. One part has the rectangles and the other does not. The two parts are glued together and then cover strips of plastic are used to hide the seams. Rogue One TKs are were not vacuum formed. I have heard (although I do not know for sure) that the RO TKs were injection molded. This process requires a 2 or more-sided mold that is completely closed off then heated liquid plastic is injected into the mold. Once the plastic is cured, the mold is opened, and the parts removed. This process allows for thicker and more detailed parts. So both the OT and the RO stormtroopers armor are made from plastic but the RO version is thicker and more detailed. Yes there are differences between ANH, ESB, and ROTJ TK’s but for the most part, the process of making the armor was the same. RO, Solo, and some of The Mandalorian TKs were made to the RO standard. Another consideration in comparing the two types TKs is the methods of assembly and strapping. There is a ton of reference material on how the OT TKs were assembled. There are very specific requirements in the CRLs as to what type of snaps, straps, Velcro, and rivets are used and how they are used. Oddly enough we have less information about how the RO TK is assembled and strapped. One of the best sources I have found for RO TKs is the images from Celebration Europe 2016. In these images we can see Velcro in various places as well as some sort of plastic hook lines connecting the shoulder bells to the biceps. Regardless, the 501st CRLs for RO TKs does not specify how the TK is strapped as long as the strapping is not visible with the exception of the drop boxes and the thighs. It would be awesome if someone who has some contacts with LFL could get some more detailed information and pictures since there is no reason for this information to remain secret this long after RO, I digress. Additionally, there are significant differences in the soft parts of the costume. OT TKs have a neck seal and a black one or two-part undersuit. The undersuit has no detail and most of the people I know who have OT TKs wear under armor. The gloves were rubber military chemical gloves and the boots were slip on brown chelsea boots dyed white. RO TKs have a undersuit that has ribbed fabric at most of the joints and the neck seal. The top shirt has hex mesh in the armpits and the ribbed fabric runs from the top of the neck seal to mid chest. The ribbed fabric must be stitched between the ribs. The boots are the same as the FO boots with a flat sole and side zipper. The gloves are also the same as the FO; although they are all black with leather patches and gridded fabric similar to a mechanics brand glove. Lastly, the OT Tks had holsters and their E-11s are slightly different from the RO E-11. RO TKs did not have holsters. I suspect that it would be difficult to holster the E-11 with a tac-light on the side of it. So lets look at some comparison pictures. These were taking at the ROSW premier. On the left is a member of my Garrison (TK 41808) in his RS Prop Masters ANH Stunt. On the right is me (TK 20980) in my Jimmiroquai RO. Initially, we look very similar; however, closer inspection reveals the level of detail, shape, construction in each part. So, let’s start at the top and work out way down. The helmet: On the left is an OT TK from ANH, on the right is my ROTK helmet. One of the most talked about parts of the helmet is the infamous eye bump. Look at the right eye on the OT helmet, notice the bump along the bottom of the eye just left of the nose? That is the eye bump. All of the bucks for the OT helmets were hand sculpted and it is unclear if this bump was in the original buck or if it is a result of the vacuum forming process; however, what we do know is that the helmets are not symmetrical. RO helmets are symmetrical and although some people swear, they can see the eye bump, I do not see it on the RO helmet. Moving on, the frown is more pronounced on the OT helmet. The number of visible teeth is also an issue. There are images from ANH that show between 6 and 10 teeth. RO helmets have only 7 individual teeth backed by a dark grey mesh. Another difference is the height of the brow trim above the eyes. The brow trim on the OT helmet fits on the edge of the top dome and is adjustable. I believe the proper gap is about ¼” while the gap on the RO helmet is about 1/8”. It is unclear if the brow trim on the RO helmet is actually separate or painted on. On my helmet it is molded into the helmet and I painted it. I should note that is on of the things that must be modified on the Black Series helmet to make it CRL compliant. The gap on the black series is closer to an OT gap. Lastly, the V-coder on the OT helmet is a molded part that is painted. On the RO helmet, the V-coder is a separate part and there must be a visible gap at the bulbous part of the V-coder and the helmet. Looking at the sides of the helmets, the OT tear traps are a simple depression that is painted. The vent lines are painted as is the black outline. The same is true for the temple boxes, although there are no vent lines in the temple boxes. On the RO helmet, the tear traps are also depressed; however, there is a raised portion in the center that is painted grey and the vent lines are cut out (engraved) in this raised portion. I suspect on the screen used helmets the depression is painted black and the raised portion is a glued in part that has the vent lines cut out. On my helmet, I cut the vents out completely and backed them black breathable fabric. The temple boxes on the RO helmet also have a raised portion that is painted grey and just like the OT, there are no vent lines. I have seen a gap between the end of the brown trim and the top of the ear cap on some OT helmets. On the RO, the brow trim comes past the temple box and terminates at the center of the ear cap. There is no gap between the brow trim and the ear cap and the brow trim terminates at an angle. The OT ear caps have visible flat head pan screws (3 of them) and the CRLs require them. These screws actually hold the helmet together connecting the front and back halves and attaching the ear caps over the seams. On the RO ear caps, the screws (2 of them) are molded in and are non-functional. Additionally, the ear bumps on the OT helmets are different. The RO ear bumps are all the same and a very different design from the OT. The outer circle of the ear cap as well as the ear bumps are more detailed and defined on the RO helmet. Lastly, the blue tube stripes on the OT helmet is either a decal or painted on. On the RO helmet the tube stripes are completely cut out and for the screen used helmets, they were backed with blue painters’ tape. On my helmet I backed the stripes with a blue breathable fabric. The back of both helmets are very similar. On the OT helmet the rear boxes are more trapezoidal rounded in the corners, the box is a depression that is painted grey and again the vent lines are painted. On the RO helmet, the boxes are more rectangular and again they are depressed with a raised portion that is painted grey with vent lines cut out. Again, I believe the screen used helmets had a depression that was painted black and additional parts with the vent lines cut out was painted grey and glued in place. On my helmet, these vent lines are cut out and backed with a black fabric. On the black series helmet, there is a battery box and speaker that must be modified for approval. Although the shape of both helmets are very similar, there are some minor differences. The RO helmet looks thinner overall. On the black series I had to extend the jaw line about 1.5” to fit a proper RO V-coder. The Hovi mics on the RO are exactly the same as the ANH Hovi mics with white interiors and the proper mesh screen. The lenses on the RO are also the same as the ANH lenses, green. If you are considering a ROTK, there are several options for helmets available to you. The least amount of work would be a Jimmiroquai helmet and the largest about of work would be modifying a black series helmet. I have a tutorial for the modifications I recommend in the RO thread. I do not recommend attempting to convert an OT helmet to a RO helmet, but I guess anything is possible. Next, I will be comparing the upper torso and arms. Thanks for the interest.

Hello all! It's been a minute. I've been busy trooping trooping of course but have also gotten bit by the 3D printing bug. Printers are so inexpensive right now that I finally pulled the trigger late last year. After printing a bunch of "smaller" Star Warsy stuff I decided to jump in and build the droid I have been looking for. I've been wanting to add a "life size" working droid to my rotation and with the help of Thingiverse, astromech.net and a couple of facebook groups. I started this build late November 2019. Let me say from go, this is like watching paint dry. I am doing this on one printer and it's a small/average one at best. But like anything else we do, it's hurry up but slow down and wait. Anyhow, I love my brothers and sisters in plastic so I wanted to just pop a few WIP pics up for you all. My end goal is to have him completed and running for May. Again, here are some pics, if anyone else is building a droid and would love to share info I am all ears. I am spending a bunch of time of astromech.net trying to learn about all this electronic stuff but honestly, it hurts my head. The print that started it all.

This promotional image appears to show the F-11D has some traits of both the previous versions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hey guys, I just thought that this would be important to ask. I am 16, so obviously I cant join the 501st yet. However, I have wanted to be a stormtrooper for almost 6 years now, and now I have saed up and almost have the money to do it. I plan to join the 501st later on of course. I cant stress how badly I want this though. Is it better to pull the trigger now or wait until im 18? Im probably going to buy no matter what the response is but I am curious how people under 18 are treated in the community.

Very nice, looking forward to the progress

Nice work, you could drop the biceps a little to reduce the space around the elbow area

Today I tried out the bells after some trimming away the return edge and I have also sewed the straps for them. Here they are about 1 inch from edge to top of snap (they are only taped down for now): Here is some fitting photos: Don't mind the wonky butt, it's fixed. It's pretty closed up front, but still a bit showing back. What do you all think?

Thank you for the feedback, I was thinking same. Will address this once I get the chest/yoke assembled for comparison against reference.

Another great mod! The lip looks great shape wise but perhaps a tad wide based on this reference. It’s negligible really so up to you whether you trim. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You can always give the rattle cans a warm bath prior to shaking. It helps prep the paint for spraying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hey Jonas. Phew!!! Glad the package arrived safe and sound. Hope the stuff I sent is good enough to update the holster and the TD. Both are fairly easy to do, but if you need help don't hesitate to ask. Awesome build progression! You are doing a fantastic job. There is no harm in pausing on the build now and then to relax and refocus. You've inspired me to get back into my armour mods. I have been holding off fixing my bells so that I can get approved for Centurion. They are the ONLY things that are holding me back as they are very tricky to make cover the openings back and front. I'm dreading the fact that they may not entirely cover the opening as per the CRL, and then I will have to source new pieces. I'm not sure why SDS (or other companies I've read about) make the bells so small. Anyways. I'm glad you like the coin. It shows all the Garrisons of Canada and was passed to me by a fantastic guy I troop with.

Thanks Dan, absolutely superb collaborating with you over the lifetime of this build. Always encouraging to see your troop posts to see how far a TK can go for the Empire, you are an inspiration to many of us. Best wishes as well!! Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Exactly this. Don't underestimate the time, a good blaster build can take. We just had @Dracotrooper completing his build after more than 2 years! But we have also seen builds here of just 2-3 months. It all depend on the level of accuracy and your time to build. In another thread you asked about RS Prop Masters, so I guess you are aiming for a classic Stormtrooper. In that case you might need an E-11 blaster. If you have access to a 3D printer, then go this route. Otherwise check out the popular resin kits and feel free to contact me for detailed questions on this topic.

Great work, Jesse. I’ve really enjoyed following this from the early days. Sharing thoughts and ideas in those early stages really helped with my own build. :-) Hope this takes pride of place wherever you choose to display it. If you ever get to build your own TK armour and need any pointers, the FISD has your back. Best wishes Dan

Yea the high performance enamel is what I meant with the pro stuff, heard lot of folks say its great stuff. I've heard so much good about Montana Gold, used it once and it didn't go over well on me but I'm sure its a bad can, it was spitting globs of paint randomly onto my work.

Hi Ardeshir could you please include a link to your 501st member page

Hi Ardeshir! I assume you are looking for Basic approval for your HWT, but this must be done through your local GML. If you are looking for EI approval, you need to have it approved at Level 1 first. The build is obviously top notch, and that DLT-19 is magnificent, but if I could make a suggestion it would be to tone down the weathering quite a bit. As per the CRL (for level 2 and above) the costume should be "lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper". While the amount of black you have looks cool, the costume is based on video games, which have a minimal amount. With this particular TK, "less is more". You can look over some of the HWT EI submissions as examples, and here are a few game images which will give you a better idea of what I mean.

Thank you for this complete guidelines! Can't wait to get approved.

Hello and welcome, really depends on how much you will grow, costumes are made to your size and some can be adjusted but it is some work. There is a group for under 18's and it's called the Galactic Academy, http://www.galactic-academy.net/. Now although they don't organise events some garrison's, squads, outposts allow GA members to attend some of their events (normally if an adult is present) but you would have to check with your local garrison, you can unit listing info here http://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php#garrisons No issues with you being on this or other communities. Good luck

Ive got to mention how clean and tidy I think this build is Shaun, lots to be proud of. The but plate is a common issue members have. It may sit a little different once you have your belt on so try that before making any adjustments to is. Failing that, you can try shortening the connecting straps a tiny bit to see if it helps pull the ends in. Lastly if you need it to flex a little more you can remove more or the return edge. Almost there mate

Wow this is coming along nicely considering your current family situation. Great progress, keep it up.

Welcome aboard Wade! Make sure you start a build thread so members can follow along and offer advice. Also post plenty of photos as you go, these will make it easier for members to see what possible problems are and offer fast solutions. Good luck on your journey, you are going to love it.

Looks like you are well underway Chris, and you are in good hands. Welcome to FISD, I am looking forward to your BBB (Big Brown Box) photos rolling in.

Searching this forum is somewhat difficult. Not sure why. I find it best to use google, like so: www.whitearmor.net: my search term

Hello and welcome aboard, you will find a lot of kits can be downsized, lots of builds as a guide in the builds sections, here's just one Getting Started section should be able to help you too

It was an absolute pleasure collaborating with you and others over the two plus years; crazy when I think of it. Also an honor to be counted as a contributor to the FISD E-11 Reference. Very valuable as is your E-11 Completion Set offering. Oh........that TK armor, truth be told, it remains a distant dream but one day, one day and when that day comes, I will most definitely begin my WIP thread.

Aw yeah!!! Finally!!! It's really me under there. I'm about 6'4'' - 6'5'' in all. I can't actually bend my arms enough to put the bucket on myself, so I now I get to tell a handler, "Bucket me!" when getting ready. Still needs minor tweaks, but they're dwindling, at long last. I need to tighten the elastic connections on a couple of the boot spats, glue a spacer in the left ankle spat (left and right are the same size, yet left wants to rattle and is loose), take in/tighten glove fingers so the finger armor fits better and the fabric doesn't bunch up and generally be too tight because of the bunching, the bottom chest plate to bottom back plate doesn't close and therefore connect fully- it's just not big enough, so I need to adjust the velcro attachment and maybe shim it. Thankfully it will be hidden. I might need to take in the gaskets a little bit, as I've lost weight since I measured for them, but that's just taking in a seam. And then those damn blasters. I have to pick away at the liquid latex and get it off, then I basically start over on paint: fillable primer over the entire thing, black glossy coat, mask off parts to stay black, then champagne mix Alclad it. I'm going to be disassembling my air brush to see if there's a blockage somewhere that's preventing paint. That wouldn't make a lot of sense since it's never had paint run through it before and has actually never been used beyond hooking up the compressor and checking air flow, but it's all we could come up with. I would love to finish them before the debut troop so I can have a blaster (I feel so awkward without one in full armor- I'm missing something), but between the weather and the effort and time it's going to take to even get them cleaned up to where I can fillable primer and black coat them, I have no idea if I'll have time. It's a Con so I'll probably just cheat with the pike if I have nothing else. Anything goes at Cons. New photos sent for approval, now we just wait and cross our fingers! I'm feeling so much better about her now- everyone at the build party loved her, the neighbors driving by were slowing down and checking us out, and she went on a whole lot easier this round. The sunlight did wonders. We had a total of five app picks taken that day- our Squad's newest ESB Boba, myself, and three new Mandos!

It looks like you have the placement on the shoulder bridges just right, Jonathan, and glad to see you removed the large tab! As long as you have enough to go a few inches over the top tabs on the back plate (and it looks like you do) you are golden.

Congratulations on completing this truly exceptional E-11 blaster, Jesse. Following your journey from day one, I can confirm that I have never before seen anybody making such a blaster with more effort than you. Of course this was meant in a positive way. No challenge was too big for you, no way was too far. As for the build time, yeah, maybe you should get a fun-award for the longest build duration. Just kidding. Thanks for the great final photos to drool over and also for your contribution to the Blaster Reference during this build. I look forward to seeing this blaster accompanied with a nice suit of TK armor. Maybe that will be your task for the next 2.5 years.

Hi Jonathan, What I did was to use painter tape and put on my chest and back pieces then placed the shoulder bridges, aligned them and marked with a pencil. here is a reference photo that can help to see the average position. heope this can give you some idea. And keep on doing a great build. Cheers

Hi folks, I have some final pictures to show as promised. The pictures are taken outside with natural day light. Maybe the variations in paint can be more readily seen this way. You will notice I need to touch-up the grip; I had only hit the grip with a heat gun to cure the gloss black paint. As such, I think that is what caused the paint to wear off over light wear as it did. More coats will help as well. And so hitting the nearly 2-1/2 year mark on this build; I can say I am thoroughly happy with it now. Here are some lessons learned. I had bit more than I can chew - trying to resemble it as close to the SMG as possible with custom builds of components AND getting BlastFX installed. Also to mention, with Tino's E-11 Completion set and a few of Chris's parts from Shapeways, I positioned myself ahead with quality parts as well. Especially so as I have not built anything like this before, I ultimately failed on the electronics install. For those looking to build, I recommend to set build goals based on your skill level and also set a deadline, or else you may very well stall on your build and make major mistakes, like I did. That being said though, I had allot of fun and learned so much. I am also grateful for the FISD community who provided resources, tips, to me, you know who you are. Thanks for following and have a great day!!

As far as I know only 850 is currently doing the R1 in ABS. As for comfort, about the same, as for mobility, it's all dependent on how you build it and how it fits you. I know I have more mobility than my ANH, and I can suit up on my own with relative ease. A lot of that came about during assembly and how secure I wanted things, and how parts connected. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Not many out there making the R1 in ABS at this stage. The FISD does not go looking for vendors, either they post up works in progress or members who purchase armor from vendors post build threads, over time supply and quality from the vendors becomes known and they may be added to the approved vendors list, but no guarantee. Unfortunately over the last say 5 years there has been an influx of armor makers posting on Facebook their work and taking peoples money and not delivering, so there is a lot more scrutiny of new vendors I don't have the R1 armor but it does look like it is a little more constricting compared to OT armor.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-d8yBFyd0CgWGtmSWx6ZHRjbFE/view

The forehead in the recreation protrudes too much. I think you should lift the face forward a bit. Look at the side references. Anyway, my sperginess brought me here and I would love to cosplay as a Triton Squad Phase 3 501st Clone Stormtrooper from the Force Unleashed Wii/PS2/PSP Kashyyyk. That's a mouthful! Anyway, if you could post a link to that model file, whether for free or purchase, that would be epic. I want one of those Etsy helmet gurus to print one out for me... eventually when my wallet regenerates.

This may provide some insight into the differences in action scenes where their firing and what I'll loosely refer to 'carry' shots. Then again, it may not. I say this because it depends on whether the screenplay, Directors or Consultants had any intent to resemble Military bearing. Now let me qualify this by saying it certainly appears, from those pictures, they had some consistency in mind so I'm guessing they benefited from some Military Advisers and wanted the Stormtroopers to appear every inch, the professional soldier. Personally, I think they did a fair job in this regard but I'm not comparing it to my training, which was very rigid with regard to Close Order Drill. The consistency I'm referring to is the carry mode or what we refer to as "Port Arms". This is a mode where all (military) troops are trained to carry their weapons in an and exact, specific way. I noticed the Stormtroopers are almost always carrying the E-11 in their Left hand when they are either in formation, marching, or just plain shuffling about. Since they don't have slings and it would have looked very un-military to carry them around in a holster, they went with two common modes (all seem to be left handed). A "high Port Arms" which you can see in the picture above where they're following closely behind Vader, and a "Low Port Arms" where they're in formations or marching and seems to be level with the deck and carried about the waistline, height-wise. So the carry mode seems consistent the majority of the time. As far as what hand you are or what hand you shoot with, that does not having any bearing on the carry mode (Port Arms) because this is intended to be the same. As far as what hand you shoot with in an action shot or pose, I'd say this, just like most Military training, depend on which hand you use to shoot or pull the trigger with. In short, if I interpret these pictures correctly, I'd say Trooping should involve attempts to adhere to the intent of the Stormtroopers which was to maintain consistency in how the weapons were carried as in a high or low "Port Arms" mode where the left hand is on the grip and the right hand is on the barrel guard. This part I say with some humor intended: If your in a hero shot (see both Han and Luke tot-in em around single handed with the weapon pointing toward the deck), then it certainly seems appropriate to 'cowboy' it. Whether this is ironic or intended to display their lack of military bearing, I couldn't say but it certainly seemed appropriate for the characters they played. With regard to shooting poses, this, just like the military, could vary (and is acceptable) among Troopers depending on which hand you shoot with. Again, this is my interpretation/opinion with the assumption that you want to play the part of a Stormtrooper in addition to just looking like one. I also don't want to infer that all Trooping should be rigidly military affair. Now if you want to get really good and do some formations with close order drill movements, I'm your man! Hope that helps :-)

Lol. I’ve never seen a compilation of pics showing so many of each!! :-) Personally, I go left. I’m right handed but prefer to go left, based on the first scene in ANH and the trooper line up that you pictured. With the holster on the left too, I imagine it’s what they had intended for TKs (not that it’s an exact rule). After a few times of kitting up and practicing with my left, it feels quite natural now. I’d hazard a guess though that more TKs worldwide go right, based on pictures of troops and here on FISD, so it’s certainly not an issue. I’d also say it could depend on the troop. I guess if all of the others on your troop are going left, go left for consistency. Good question though. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The list of vetted sellers can be found here, Ryan: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Centurion is the highest level you can reach for "screen accuracy". Once you get your basic approval from the 501st, you can apply for your EIB (Expert Infantry Badge), and then apply for Centurion. It's not quite as difficult as you may think, and although it does require some extra work and minimal cost, I personally think it's worth it to make your armor look it's best. To get a better idea, you can look over the requirements and submission threads here: EIB: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/95-expert-infantryman-program/ Centurion: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/66-fisd-centurion-program/ This may also help you out: http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL