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About Linus

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    Everett, WA.
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    Sailing, Shooting, PC Gaming, Hockey oh, and... Star Wars :-)

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  • 501st Unit
    Titan (WA)

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  1. Linus

    Imperial Boots is Open Oct. 12-19

    Confirmed they're currently processing orders (you can now select options and add to cart). Just a note for those attempting to achieve higher levels of TK. Be sure to select the "Classic421" under the Shoes menu. Don't be enticed to select the "T7" as these don't meet CRL's for Basic and Level Two certification due to seam on forward portion of boot and they have a zipper (as opposed to small U-shaped elastic). CRL Quotes specific to this: Small U-shaped elastic section on both sides of ankle There is no seam present on front of the boot
  2. Linus

    build post not showing

    Likely a browser "session" issue. When you open up a browser session to a site, that information is cached locally on your device. When updates are made, this cached info is not updated, on local devices, until you either re-navigate to that page or refresh your browser session.
  3. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Shins continued... Started with trimming the rough mold away from the ankles. You can likely see within the Pic, the pencil marks method for marking a cut line using the 90 degree angle between the shin surface and the return edge. I like having a visual line to cut from because the lighting and view angle on this ever so shiny white plastic can cause me to lose sight of the return edge and easily run astray. Here they are all rough trimmed along return edge. Note that any length trimming will wait until I've tape fitted them over boot (and likely finished thigh as well). No hurry on the length as yet since I can fit them over my boots and adjust as needed for circumference trimming. I found an old Protractor within the tools I inherited from my Father and used that with trusty pencil attached to define the cut-line/distance for trimming the upper shin, return edge. I had seen this method used within a few of the pinned build threads and it has served me well (versus trying to free-hand it in some of the more defined areas). Here's a pic of before (left) and after (right) trimming upper return on Shins. You can see I left about a 3/16, 1/4 inch return which is pretty consistent with the movie reference pics I've been able to find. After tape fitting sessions with my Wife being kind (and patient) enough to measure the overlap between top of shin and bottom of shin while I modeled them, I made my marks for cutting the circumference. The ankle I left fairly snug over my TK Boots (more on this problematic area later on). The top is a "snug but not too tight" fit so my calf can feel the armor but it's not overly pressing. The Pic shows a slight change in my clamping strategy. With previous parts such as the Biceps and Forearms, the length was short enough where I could clamp each piece directly to the table under my metal ruler and score (the cut line) in a very secure way. Not such with the Shin parts. Given their length and curve, there was too much stress on the plastic so I used yet another method learned from various build threads on this site and "floated" the ruler and clamps onto the plastic itself. This does not make for a very stable work area so be sure to follow the wealth of advise on FISD and make very slow - light cuts at first. I found that I needed to run about 4-6 score lines atop one another to achieve a decent score and snap of these curvy pieces. Additional note: For the upper ridge area, I used the Lexan scissors to cut around those edges (rather than attempting to score with knife). More to follow in the cover strips and gluing of the shins...
  4. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Well now, what's this? A neglected build thread? Yep, guilty. You may recall me referencing a summer task of building another retaining wall in my yard this summer? Well, turns out I got all the major yard upgrades done this summer, minus the retaining wall. Apparently there's this key tendon in your shoulder called the "Supraspinatus" which is one of two tendons in your shoulder (Rotator cuff) that can be torn... Turns out, I have a partial tear. Yep, those retaining wall stones are heavy and yes, I over did it. After about 4 weeks of pain, I go in to see the Dr. and She diagnosed it as Tendonitis and prescribed exercises. After a week of excruciating pain, I return and tell her I can't perform the exercises properly because I can't raise the arm, it hurts too much and seems to be getting worse. Then comes the MRI, then comes the tear-diagnosis. I guess you have to have more of a tear than I do to rate surgery (which I think is a good thing for me) given it's 'minor'. I gotta say, I'm no stranger to pain and my tolerance is pretty high but, oh man does this tear hurt. An example of what little it takes to aggravate the shoulder; I can sneeze, causing the muscle to involuntarily tighten and that will bring tears (of the watery persuasion and yes, also involuntary) to my eyes for a full minute after... No fun at all! So, I get a cortisone injection next week. Hopefully, that promotes the healing. From what I've learned so far, Rotator-cuff tears take a long time to recover. Be that as it may, it will not prevent me from progressing my build, 1 1/2 handed or not. Onward with the Shin progress.
  5. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Roger that, appreciate the clarification. Thanks Daniel!
  6. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Yep, thanks Tony. Seen those and I'd add a wider view of the one you have above with a few more standing to the left which really calls out how much the gap varies in the movie. From left to right: Trooper #1 has significant gap on left leg, #2 has minimal gap that looks the best (and probably hobbles about a lot), #3 has significant gap on both legs, and #4 has a very nice minimal on both (but probably rubs pieces together every time he walks). With your input, I think I'll wait to trim the length and determine positioning on the lower leg until I can get the thigh and sniper knee in place, then pick the position that allows adequate movement - walking and climbing steps with as minimal gap as possible. On another note. I forgot to ask about fitment. circumference-wise. I haven't been able to find much referencing the fit on the calves, unlike the arms, thighs and torso. I know to fit the pieces on my leg and shore them in to my size and shape using tape, then measure the excess the needs to be trimmed (I actually use the ukswrath-anovos method of overlap-measurement-divide by half-cut) so to be clear on fitment, I'm looking for how snug or loose the piece should be not the contour to my leg - shape. I'm guessing I can have the calves a bit more snug as compared to other pieces? or should it be loose and leverage the boot to somewhat hold it up leaving a finger or two gap and shore up inside with foam. etc. ? Sorry if I see to be beating this one to death. With each component, I go back to my list of build favorites and scour through that section, taking note of any significant influences and tips. If I don't find references (and I dig a fair amount) I like to call them out in my build with the hope of filling in gap on topics not often discussed and of particular interest to a newer builder (like myself).
  7. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    3. Shins/Calves: A note on Shin Pieces. I ordered an XL Shin with my TM kit which is 17" giving me plenty of length to trim if needed and I'm 6'2. I'm well into the left Shin/Calf trimming and measuring but I don't want to go much further without clarifying a few things. I'll attempt to frame up the question(s); For length's sake, how low should shin/calf sit on the upper calf leg to allow for movement and bending of the leg as I walk? I'm attempting a tape-fitting, with under armor and boot on and my preference is to move the calf up into the bend behind my knee but then I have to drop it some in order to actually bend my knee. Is there a rule of thumb on how far back your lower leg should be able to move? I noticed in a few references, there is a fair bit of black showing behind the knees between the thigh and calf. In fact, a number of the movie photos show the left thigh to be a bit shorter than the right to make room for the sniper knee (which also seems to have them shifting the calf downward to make room for this too). My instinct is to minimize this gap but not to the point of compromising movement. So, what's a good compromise between minimizing black and being able to bend far enough to walk decently without looking like C-3PO hobbling about? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or insights!
  8. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

  9. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Yes he has! Lovin it so far! Thanks Dan, truly appreciate the praise given your work and experience! #BigFan
  10. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Here are the finish pics of forearms. Overall, I think they turned out pretty well. I had the cover strip on the left-front forearm, upper portion shift while drying. Figured out why; the 7/8 magnets were just a bit too wide for the left forearm - inner cover strip ridge (which is ever so slightly slimmer than the right forearm) and this caused the magnets to push the two pieces apart within that raised ridge area, leaving the cover strip offset on the upper portion. While it's not absolutely necessarily, I'm going to add inner cover strips as well to reinforce and fill in that inner ridge area opposite the outer cover strip. Top View: Wrist View: Outer Forearm: I love the tapered shape of these molds! Inner Forearm: Forearms lessons learned: The cover strip area (where the upper forearm has a ridge of sorts for the cover strip to run along) having been trimmed down to align with 15 mm cover strips, is too narrow for my 7/8 magnets to fit flat. On the second forearm, this resulted in the two halves spreading a part underneath the cover strip due to the magnets pushing outward on the narrow channel. If I were to glue the narrow areas such a forearm again, I'd look for square magnets (or smaller round ones) that fit within the 15 mm / 1/2 channel. Note: Found some! Bought 16 - 1"x.5"x1/8 square magnets (which I'll likely use on the shins).
  11. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Trudging along a bit slowly of late with other things distracting me from my true goal *coughs the word armor* but I did manage to progress a fair amount on the forearms this week! A note on trimming and tools. If you ask someone or read their build thread on their trim process for getting from out of the box to final finishing, you're likely to get six different answers from four or five of them. That obviously changes a bit with which pieces your working on but I'm no different with my growing arsenal of tools in that my answer is growing and diverse... While I am only two components into my build, I've developed my preferred process which so far, based on the biceps and forearms size - cutting needs, has been: Rough trim with Lexan scissors, score n snap (if it's a straight edge since I'm not too comfortable with the curvy stuff as yet) and follow up sanding. On the follow up sanding I use a folded square of sandpaper for small or narrow areas of work, a flat piece on the workbench surface, a small file set for tight work, a handy sanding sponge for cleaning up edges and rotary sanding tools for the larger areas needing removal. On the rotary sanding tools (see the big bench model I posted a pic of earlier in my thread), it just feels more natural for me to have the sanding device mounted and steadfast while I move the armor piece about on the tool (as opposed to moving the tool over the armor). This seems to afford me more control and I can take off very small amounts whereas, when I've tried the dremel in-hand, I don't feel as comfortable or confident (or practiced). To that end, the curved areas of the forearm armor are a bit smaller than the biceps so I was looking for sanding drum size options to allow me to handle slighter curves and found the following inexpensive kit: These drums come in the normal dremel size 3/4?, 1 inch, 1.5 inch and a 2 inch drum with both 80 and 120 bit sand paper. The only problem I had to overcome, given my preference for static mounted sanding tools was, the larger drum bits were too thick to fit in the dremel so I had to attach them to a drill. My cordless drill would have mounted to something just fine but I found the RPM to be a bit faster than what I need for plastic work so I pulled out an old workhorse of a drill I've had for years and mounted that to a jig. I was able to leverage the smaller drums to form up a finished return edge for the upper forearms and fine tune the lower forearm - wrists without taking any length from them. Works great! 2. Forearms: Started off already having trimmed the forearms with Lexan scissors (removing the extra mold plastic). Next I used the 2 inch sanding drum to sand down the upper forearm return edge. I ended up leaving about 3/16 or so return which is pretty uniform with what I did on biceps (no pics of the inner-upper half but I'll show a finished product pic further down in this section). Here's a picture of the upper-outer forearm half. This was a combination of 2 inch drum and small file set for the bridge area, curves. On the wrists, I experimented with that "no return edge" requirement for Centurion a bit. I wanted to see if I could leave a slight knurl-edge that would not show as a return but perhaps leave as much length as possible, have a nice rounded edge that would not be rough on the wrist and strengthen the wrist edge too. Unfortunately, all that work was for not because it still showed up as a return edge, however slight (see below). In the end, I ended up removing the return edge. That 2 inch drum made both processes pretty easy. Prepping the "Knurled" edge: You can still see a slight return edge on the finished product (left hand side of pic), preparation using rounded files (on right hand side of pic): Final cuts to circumference was using the score n snap method with a slight difference in how I did the biceps. Instead of clamping to the table, because they're longer and have a bevel-curve to the shape, I "free-float" clamped them to the ruler. I learned this from another build thread and it was very helpful - sorry I can't recall the reference: Next was to cut 15 mm cover strips for both front and back of each forearm. A little note on cheating the cover strip size here. The upper edges of the forearm that will join together have that ridge that the cover strip sits on and, as it's likely with most kits, that ridge gets wider as it it goes up the forearm to match the overall width and shape of one's arm. Since I didn't want to modify the width of the upper forearm here and risk a more 'cylindrical' look I was hoping for that ridge and the cover strip edge to be pretty uniform for a nice clean look so I cut my 15 mm cover strips ever so slightly wider on one end. They're 15 mm at the wrist and gradually go to 16/17 mm width at the upper forearm. This only partially accomplished what I intended because there is still a greater area between the ridge-edge and the cover strip edge but I knew any more than 2 mm and it would be noticeable (and deviate from cannon) so I decided to compromise with a slight imperceptible alteration. Not sure if it's much of an improvement. My final photos, soon to follow because the inner halves are still drying, will hopefully tell that story Last step was to glue em together. I'll upload some pics of the gluing and final product shortly.
  12. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Time to wrap up the bicep section with some lessons learned. On a side note, I left the 3/16 return on both upper and lower edges of biceps but I'll likely do one of two things to those return edges as I gain more experience wearing them and moving in them; A) Remove the upper returns if they, in any way, impede movement, comfort or add to the gap between shoulder bell and chest plate, reinforce the return area gap where both pieces come together with some ABS paste. Otherwise, in the interim, I'll attempt to maintain some level of uniformity by doing the same on the forearms. Lessons learned: When using the score and snap method, depending on how deep you go, the edge of the cut line can flare out resulting in a nice little raised ridge along the length of where the blade ran. This seems more likely to occur as your blade gets dull. Don't underestimate the length of the cover strips. Measure multiple times and even when you cut, do so ever so slightly larger, then re-measure before gluing. A very thinly spread layer of glue is in fact enough to strongly secure the ends. After handling the biceps and forearms quite a bit, I'm pretty confident in the strength of these joints. I continued to use a flat edged Popsicle sticks to spread the glue pretty thinly (on both surface and cover strip). The glue gets perfectly tacky in the few minutes that it takes to spread it on and this makes applying the cover strip nice and easy. The added benefit is, I had minimal glue squeezing out from the ends. Note: I'm using the "High Viscosity version of E-6000 glue but I'm really not sure if that is making a difference in the run-factor or ability to spread it thinner. I just know it's staying where I spread it!
  13. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    That makes perfect sense Joseph. I also left a slight return on the bottom of my biceps to provide the thickness illusion/thicker look and I'm equally of the mind that the bicep upper returns will not be of benefit from a visual perspective. Although the upper bicep is not a good example in that the return edge will actually increase the circumference and as a result, push shoulder bells further out, here's some insight into my additional rationale for leaving returns where I can, merely for the purposes of debate All around uniformity That illusion of thickness Can add a bit (however slight) to the overall length of that piece if, for instance, a person is taller/longer of limb than what the piece was intended. The benefit being, to reduce or minimize some of that black area (gap) between pieces, providing overall fit-symmetry. and, of potentially benefit which is the (admittedly debatable) centering effect on the limb. Now, I'm not sure, having no applied experience wearing the armor as yet but my thinking is, it can help to fit the limb more symmetrically as an outer layer, conforming to ones shape if there is a return edge thus enhancing the fit-appearance on the person. To be clear, I'm not sure how much this 'centering' aspect is a benefit as yet but I can say I've seen examples of loosely fit armor 'hanging' to one side or the other like a straight pipe on ones arm where a return edge might have at least centered the pipe preventing it from leaning against one side of the limb or other... That, however, is treating the symptom versus the cause (too loosely fit armor) right? In the end, it's how you indicated, mostly personal preference as related to comfort and fit except where removal is required, just providing a few more considerations for thought...
  14. Linus

    Linus' ANH Stunt Build (TM)

    Bought some more magnets so I can do more than one joining edge at a time. Here are pics of the finished biceps. I can show pictures angles of where the return-edge ends and the cover strips begin if needed because I'm a little unsatisfied with how the upper return edges kinda stick out at odd angles where the joining sides meet. I realize these won't even show being under the shoulder bell but I was considering whether I should take a hot iron to those return edges to perhaps mold them down to a slightly flatter angle or contour that is closer to the cover strips. Thoughts and opinions are appreciated. Thanks in advance! Biceps - Front: Biceps - Back:
  15. Linus

    Bud Spaklur’s ANH Stunt Build (AP)

    Congrats Matt! I've been keeping up with your build and it was a fun ride. Good job grinding through it with all that you (undoubtedly) have on your plate as a parent, etc. I know how that goes... Just wanted you to know that those following behind you (like me) benefit greatly from your 'pitfalls'. If every build was perfect and uneventful, it'd be kinda boring right? I don't mean to imply that your build was full of pitfalls, only that I learned from it. and... the finished product looks great! Thanks!