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Kredal

Imperial Attaché[TK]
  • Content Count

    523
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

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About Kredal

  • Rank
    Centurion
  • Birthday 01/25/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newport News, VA

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20150831
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-H

Standard Info

  • Name
    Josh
  • 501st ID
    44678
  • 501st Unit
    Garrison Tyranus

Recent Profile Visitors

393 profile views
  1. I can honestly say that I have never had that problem. If you’re using enough E-6000 to bleed through un-stretched elastic, safe to say you’re doing it wrong. (:
  2. ANH stands for "A New Hope", aka Star Wars: Episode 4. First Order armor is going to be either TFA or TLJ. You will only find fan-made versions of that for now... I don't think the screen-used kits have been scanned and recreated exactly yet (but I could be wrong!).
  3. So technically, the frown paint that Anovos starts with doesn't match the CRL helmet picture, even though it matches the text. I think it's probably fair to ask for the applicant to match the CRL picture if possible... Of course, some of the pictures in the CRL are absolutely wrong for higher levels (knee armor riveted on, etc)
  4. Go to Home Depot and buy a plastic "For Sale" sign. They work great for internal strips.
  5. Yeah, E6000 takes a long time to dry. Let it! Your "test fit" pictures were only 3 hours ago, so I know you didn't give it near enough time. Also, for the shins especially, I would HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend putting in an inside strip on the front. There will be a lot of flexing there, and you want it to be as strong as possible. Then don't try it on for at least a full day. (: Oh, and from the pictures, it doesn't look like you used enough glue either. Slather it on there. You can peel up anything that oozes out.
  6. #2 pencil, candy cane... whatever you have handy. Looking good!
  7. Hey Mike, great job on the painting and trimming! I figured out why your grey doesn't look so clean. Humbrol paints NEED to be shaken, and then stirred to get the pigment mixed in with the base really well. Shake the little jar for a minute, then open it and stir it up some more with a toothpick before dipping your brush. You'll be amazed at how much better the paint goes onto the plastic. As far as the vocoder, you should be using the semigloss black (or satin black)... That looks really shiny, are you sure you're in the right jar? (: Positioning of the mic tips looks great!
  8. I met Mike tonight and we had an impromptu armor party. We got his arm pieces all trimmed down and ready to glue... I gave him some tips about trimming and using Lexan scissors... at the end of the night, I wanted to show him the light at the end of the tunnel, so we made him into a blue tape trim trooper!
  9. Two years later (almost exactly!!) and I found and purchased a beautiful TK saber. It's from Arm on Fire Custom Sabers on Facebook, there was about a 4 month wait (he got an order for 6 sabers at once, which took a lot of time, of course). Here's the video the maker made, showing it off... This also serves as a POC for anyone who wants to buy their own. https://www.facebook.com/ArmOnFireCustomSabers/videos/1436817806401941 I built a quick and dirty belt attachment for the Covertech clip that fit the 1.5 inch belt clip part, as well as kept it centered on the plastic plate by way of a couple cap rivets around the belt clip portion. It's attached to my belt through the top two chicago screws that normally hold on my holster. The bottom two screws are just hanging out. It works a lot better than a pool noodle!
  10. TK-42176 did just that! There were a ton of modifications needed for it, though. But man, it looks good!
  11. Hey Fab! Surprised you haven't gotten any comments here, but then I remember Celebration, and suddenly not so surprised. (: The overlap method is not right anymore, so the coverstrip in your last two pictures is perfect. Nicely rounded edges will help to keep it from digging into your arm too. Hyperfirm B-grade blasters are good for EIB/Centurion, but you'll have to add the D-ring to the back. There's a spot for one, you just have to drill very carefully into the part where the D-ring goes, and add it in yourself. So far, it looks like you're on the right track, though! You've obviously been doing your research! (:
  12. The last time I emailed Troopergear, it took about 6 days for a response. Patience is the watchword in the world of building armor!
  13. Welcome to the club! Take lots of pictures, post lots of questions, tons of people here to help you out.
  14. AM2 and RT-Mod are still around, and would work very well for you, probably. The first post, even though it dates back to 2010, remains constantly updated. Maybe whoever updates it should put a big text block up at the top that says "Current as of XXX date"...
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