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PanzerKraken

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    100
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About PanzerKraken

  • Rank
    Lieutenant

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Davie, FL

Standard Info

  • Name
    Edwin
  • 501st ID
    41181
  • 501st Unit
    Florida

Recent Profile Visitors

337 profile views
  1. Yea the high performance enamel is what I meant with the pro stuff, heard lot of folks say its great stuff. I've heard so much good about Montana Gold, used it once and it didn't go over well on me but I'm sure its a bad can, it was spitting globs of paint randomly onto my work.
  2. Yea I'm not a fan of them and especially the 2x line I've had ton of problems with for different colors/projects. I've had folks recommend their pro line paints though, more expensive in the shiny chrome label cans that folks claim is so good, but don't nkow if anyone tried it on a FOTK. I've painted lot of kits before but never touched white and so many stories I've seen about ppl having cracking problems with how the FOTK is built. I just keep lucking out in finding a source to get my armor auto painted by a pro so almost giving up and just want to get out rattle cans and go at it. I know of course probably best course to go is to just start painting test pieces of plastic/armor and see the results.
  3. I never had good experience with the 2x Rustoleum in the past with other paint jobs so guess I'm kinda leary on it. I've had folks recommend the Rustoleum high performance series of paints though, anyone ever use those on armor?
  4. Are folks getting their armor professionally painted or doing it themselves with rattle cans? I've basically reached the point that my armor is about finished, just need to get it painted now to finish it finally and not sure what route to take personally. I know lot of folks use the rustoleum cans themselves but question the durability of it with trooping. If I seek an auto paint shop to do it, I'm possibly gonna get stuck with a huge bill possibly, but a longer lasting paint job.
  5. Got my paypal dispute refund, they never responded to it nor any message I tried sending via FB for weeks
  6. So a source for proper front rubber straps and buckles that go up the chest was never found? These are the parts im missing on my vest from Diversity Props and he's apparently gone awol and have had to file a claim as it's been almost 6 months with no straps. He showed them to me and promised to send them, never happened so I got an incomplete vest kit.
  7. It took them several months to get me my FOTK Heavy trooper vest, and even then the quality is pretty poor IMO, lot of scuffed material on the webbing and what looks like stains? No idea but hope it cleans out, some wiping with water is not getting the spots out. They told me my vest was shipping and then about a month later when I asked for an update, I was told it wasn't done yet. Took several more weeks and then more weeks after for shipping. And of course, 2 main components of the harness are missing, I've been asking now for more than a month. A month and a half ago I was told they would ship the missing parts right away, never happened, asked for an update couple weeks later and was told that they needed to check, no replies now.
  8. Got it linked here on my google drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fjA8g8V_11SU8aVrrGeNFErIkgkzS-oj/view?usp=sharing Marked in red where I'm wondering if I can trim more off, especially under the arm areas as it's really tight and I can't even put my arms down, I can't imagine this with the biceps on. Also that it just seemed to sit a bit high cause my helmet is practically sitting on the chest plate and I can barely see forward, Im almost looking slightly up
  9. So finally got everything assembled roughly and doing the test fitting of everything now to see what needs final trimming and adjustments. So right away the arms around the yoke and pits is way too tight, even without bicep armor on, I can barely put my arms down so need to trim parts of the yoke and the chest plate down to give me some room at least. Also to remove some of the return edge near the shoulders to get the chest to sit a little lower as well. I feel like I can trim down a whole lot around the arms but also not sure how much return edge is required or should be had. Near the shoulders of the yoke on some FOTKs i've seen big return edges, while I've seen a couple that look to have almost none. From the CRL there is no clear guide to this and I don't want to cut off too much or like with a normal TK is it pretty lenient for fitting sake? From other pics it makes me wonder, is it fairly common that most FOTK's have very little ability to look down? I'm used to wearing my regular ANH TK and I can move my head fairly well but so far in my FOTK I can barely move an inch without the bottom of the helmet hitting the chest top. Feels very restrictive visual wise compared to a standard TK.
  10. Yea this was a discussion I was looking for as I'm starting to trim my ab boxes and was worried on getting them super flush or if they were supposed to be filled since the crl pic is clearly paste filled from the texture around where the boxes join.
  11. This that's the ANH stormtrooper drop boxes part of the crl
  12. So I see in some people's build they seam filled the ab boxes that are attached around the front of the armors ab plate. While some leave them floating with a tiny gap? Is that right you can go either way? Best way to try and get these boxes flush? The CRL seems to indicate that they don't need to be seam filled
  13. Yes been going through it, great resource thx! So below is what I was talking about, so you did do an overlap to join the two parts of the thighs, you then sanded it to make it look more like a return edge? I've seen folks cut both sides to try and join them flush for the seam which seems like a nightmare on this kit and cause of the curve, so was hoping to do something similar to what you have done!
  14. Are those available somewhere? Or you custom made those?
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