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Had a brief chat with Tino recently and he told me that @Bulldog44 would be very happy if I shared this little picture with you guys

Thanks everyone for the comments and feedback. I have 2 more troops this year, coming up this weekend, then it's back to the bench to fix and correct the items mentioned above. All are simple fixes and shouldn't take much work at all. Such a great community, glad to be a part of it!

Good news everyone! My package has been shipped. Not sure how long it’ll take but I’m assuming it’ll take a month to get here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No problems I’d rather see my spot go to someone here, I have replied with your details, fingers crossed they contact you

Snaps 'n' straps, part I Hi gang; I'm back, but only briefly. Since last time, another work assignment popped up, so no armor building for me for while. Plus that Thanksgiving thing with a house full of family most of the week. Plus a trip of my own. Plus some household repairs. All that's past, and for a day or two I have some "me" time before the next round of time-demands rolls in tomorrow (and for a full week after that). So I'm picking up where I left off. As Lou suggested in one of the last posts regarding my shin issue, I'm gonna let the shin reshaping go until the armor is complete. I'm sure there will be lots of tweaks I'll want to do once I can wear this stuff, so I'll tackle it all at once. So, the key to getting the armor actually on my body is the get it to hold together. That means it's time to do snaps and straps. After thinking about it for months during the rest of my build, I decided on webbing snap plates over ABS squares. Being a woodworker, I love jigs for making things. So, to ensure that my snap plates are uniform in overall size and hole placement, I whipped up a simple jig out of scrap wood. You'll see the whole jig shortly, but the first part of the jig I used was a piece cut to the dimensions of the snap plates I wanted. Using that, I cut out all the webbing plates that would get double snaps. This was just a simple matter of holding the wooden template up to the webbing and using it as a guide for my scissors. After cutting each piece, I then heat-sealed the raw edges with a grill lighter. If you haven't done this yet, a tip: Seal those edges immediately after cutting. Webbing unravels almost instantly upon cutting, and will certainly start coming apart if the fresh-cut webbing plates are handled, so seal the edges right away. Then it was just keep going till I had all the webbing plates I needed for the double snaps -- two dozen. Actually, that's a couple more than I really needed, but I wanted some extras. (I also plan to use some single snaps here and there, mostly on the Forearms and Shoulder Bells, but I'll do those later.) The eagle-eyed among you have probably already noticed that my cutting template has a pair of holes in it. Those are measured and drilled exactly centered, so no matter which way I flip that little piece of wood, the holes will be in the same place. The key reason for the hole guide -- which I'll also use for the straps -- is so snap locations are the same on each plate. Then, using the same template for the ends of the straps, the male and female parts of the snap pairs will mate perfectly. To make the holes, I placed each webbing plate in the corner of the jig, put the hole guide template on top, and then poked the business end of a cordless soldering iron down into the guide holes and through the webbing. The soldering iron creates and heat-seals the holes in a single action, and it took only a couple minutes to do all two dozen webbing pieces. Let's take a look at that jig. It's just a length of oak scrap (any hardwood will do), with some thinner pieces of oak glued on the edges of one corner to act as fences for aligning the webbing plate in the jig. Those thin strips are just glued in place to form a nesting corner. Once the glue dried I snugged the hole guide into the corner, and poked the soldering iron through the holes to mark the jig, and then drilled a couple larger holes in the base of the jig for the tip of the soldering iron to go down into. Worked like a charm. After all the holes were done, it was just working my way through setting snaps. Finally, all my double snap plates are done and ready for gluing. At this point, I'll adjust the jig to make that handful of single snaps I need. Up next is gluing the plates into the armor, after which I'll do the straps to fit all the snap plates. That'll have to wait for a week, though. Got more company coming later this week, followed by another trip of my own (Grandson birthday!). After that, however, I have absolutely nothing on my to-do list until Christmas. Unless I get a surprise work assignment, I think I may enjoy a White Christmas -- that is, I'm thinking I will finally have my armor done in time to welcome Santa.

It gives me great pleasure to announce the promotion of ShaSha from the attache ranks to the position of Deputy Deployment Officer. Shasha brings with her experience in assisting our vertically challenged troopers in armour modification and assembly plus a keen eye for attention to detail. Congratulations Shasha, we have every confidence you will do a fantastic job.

Got the order and will have those in the mail tomorrow for ya'.

Velcro does make it hard to move and bend as it has no give, also can pull off under pressure, I would advise snaps and elastic to be the way to go.

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

Welcome to the Legion.

You can do whatever you want for strapping, since approvals only concern the outer appearance of the armor. That said, Velcro isn't ideal as unless you get the industrial strength it tends to seperate from the armor, as well as making it harder to dial in your fitment every time you kit up. With snaps you figure it all out once, and unless you gain/lose weight you're good to go every single time. Rivets are only required for the higher approval levels and even then do not have to be functional.

Saw his link, wasn't sure if it was still active. I'll message him. Thanks

Anybody have a link to some pan head screws for my TD, or some extras from their build.... Think it's my main hurdle for EIB.... Would like to get going on my application Thanks TK 42191... Damn, I love saying that

Congrats Robert!

Shins look awesome to me. Like was suggested, I'd also trim the bottoms to match. Are the shins being held together with the tape or do they stay closed by themselves? One piece of advice I found helpful is that you'll have a much easier time with the shin closures if you're able to bend them into shape so that they stay closed naturally rather than having to be forced closed with Velcro, bra straps, etc. Side note: I recently got added to the DO team so I will be eagerly awaiting your EIB and Centurion submissions.

Your effort in designing this certificate paid off; people are using it. Although it has a different style than the level 2 and 3 certificates, I loved Freddy's idea of all three in one frame.

Thought about setting up something like a 'FISD Armor Reference' years ago. But considering how time-consuming and complex the work was just for this blaster reference, I skipped the attempt. Sorry.

I had the opportunity to give Dan the prototype to compare it with his Anovos TFA and Sideshow TLJ helmet. It seems that my helmet is slightly bigger but proportionwise it is pretty good All the best Dino

Congratulations and welcome to the Legion Trooper Be sure to check out the advanced tactics section to take your armor to the next level and join in on the EIB march to 1000 - dosen´t seem to be much work for you to do just that https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/113-advanced-tactics/

Congratulations and welcome to FISD!

Hi Jim, in case you aim for the next level of accuracy (EIB) after the corrections above are done, I would suggest to double check your Thermal Detonator again. Here is what the CRL says: Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Good luck.

Congratulations! Don't forget to request a status upgrade here, you're missing out on the rest of the forums:

New pic for CRL?

There's no crying in baseball! But space baseball... with a laser bat... in white armor... in a legion... of stormtroopers and others... yay Star Wars.

Guaranteed Legion approval!!!NOT!

I'm finding these shins difficult to hot water bathe. Using a large stock pot I'm able to submerge over half a shin at a time vertically, or a decent bit of one side if I lay the shin across the top of the pot (keeping the pot very full), so that's not the issue so much as the temperamental nature of the shins. Despite being fairly thick, it's easiest to work with them after submerging them for only about 15-20 seconds. (For reference, if I submerged my biceps - or forearms - for that short a time, they would merely laugh short laughs and not budge at all.) Any longer than that and the shins start to take their preexisting curves to extremes - the open rear seams fold in on themselves, the awesome "dents" along the front shin seam become REAL dents, bad dents, squeal-a-little-and-frantically-push-them-back-out dents, and harsh bends become harder. Side note, beware correcting those bends with too much force. If someone were silly enough to do that, this might happen. Someone is sure she can fill the crack with ABS paste, reinforce it with a scrap on the back, and polish it out of existence though. Fear not. So this is where they stand! Literally. Haha. What do y'all think? The left one fits pretty perfectly, in my opinion. The right one is definitely larger, more noticeable in person. You can sorta see it in the last picture. The right one has been a huge pain in general, and is greatly improved from where it was, I swear! It was a weird almost heart shape when viewed from above before. Now it's still more circular than the pleasing oval of the left, but not TERRIBLE. I think I'll trim it tighter before fighting it again. But anyway, brutal honesty time. Left shin too tight? Boots too squished? Posts too boring? Promise I won't cry more than a few hours.

That second link is fantastic, Glen.. THANKS!! Going in my arsenal of info. right away!

Congratulations ShaSha. Well deserved. Hope to see you serve with the Attaches once in awhile

KB should not be added to the list untill they have proven themselves for a longer period of time, there was very poor comunication and questionable business practise for a very long time.

Hi Dan, Nice work! Those coverstrips and your lid are looking great! If you wanted to go a little further with the detailing, here’s a couple of little bits I’ve noticed; Thigh ammo pack is a little under-trimmed at the moment - Screen ref; Also, your frown paint could extend past the in-drilled fifth hole for a little more ANH stunt magic; Ref; Keep up the good work! Dan :-)

Damn. I cant make a Deathtrooper out of that. It will clash with the little pumpkin.

Someone in a facebook group posted what he got after ordering from rebatesesg.com Here is a picture: So be aware and don't order unless you want a cheap costume for your kids.

Hi Stuart, I'm afraid it would have to be (carefully) removed for EIB and Centurion applications. Thanks in advance. Dan

Hi all! I am starting a new build of Captain Phasma from TLJ which I am hoping to have completed and approved by April next year. I have been researching a great deal both on FISD, the Captain Phasma Costumers group on Facebook and made some FB friends with the pioneers for emergencies! The CRL is still being built so I am also hoping that it gets done in time so I can be approved to troop! Bucket: Anovos Armour: MCM Gloves: TBA Boots: TBA Belt: TBA Might self build Gaskets and neck seal: Sheevs Emporium for trooping, and Imperial Gaskets for L2/L3 when available Undersuit: Imperial Undersuit Main Blaster: TDK Props SE-44c: TDK Props Cape: self build thanks to Luke Daley @ JJ Industries for the pattern Spear: TBA May self build, try to source locally or JJ Industries if they do another run! Sound: Boss multi effects guitar pedal and a 10 watt tour guide sound system. This was an idea that came from David on the FB group, thanks! I am getting 3D printed armour as I am comfortable with working with the medium (what my Deathtrooper was). I will be using more power tools with this build, I almost went crazy hand sanding everything last time! A big thank you to my vendor for helping me make this happen! As far as I can tell so far there are some notable changes for Phasma for TLJ 1. Glove armour is different (not C3PO fingers) 2. Armour is more aligned with FOTK, especially the spats 3. A heel is present on the boots 4. The frown is a little tighter on the bucket 5. The knee gaskets appear to be attached to the thigh (looks more like a hinge will need to get clarity on that as I get further) 6. The belt boxes are different 7. A large spear/javelin/stabby-stick 8. Pristine Chrome finish (no weathering) I have researched a few methods for the chrome and am going to try a spray on Chrome method developed here in Australia. I have been in touch with them and get the feeling I can work with them. I will be purchasing some to try out and see what the results are like. The key to this method is a near perfect base coat. So I will probably need to find a decent workshop to try out painting. I am super excited about this build and have a slight twinge of PTSD from the last build but I know I have the skills and support to do this one justice. I learned a huge amount from the last build and will be using more power tools this time (less hand sanding). As always I’ll be thanking Tom because he’s a wealth of information and I am sure he will have a hand in guiding me towards completion. Also will be looking to others who have done FOTKs for advice as well. I cannot wait to add to our Garrison First Order collection! The Anovos bucket I bought will be stripped down and repainted. The faceplate was glued on slightly off centre (which drove me NUTS) so I have already ripped that off. I will need to pull out the lining and lenses before I can start stripping all the paint off. It’s pretty scary making alterations to it but necessary as the Anovos was from Force Awakens. If I have missed anything (obvious or otherwise) please let me know

Hi all, I've been pouring over all of the reference materials I could get my hands on and was wondering if someone can help me confirm some things... apologies if these things have been hashed out already! 1. The gasket for the knee appears to have a cutout/slit for movement. The first time I saw this was in a magazine photoshoot, so I dug through frame by frame and found what I think is matching screen references for the opening. If I was to hazard a guess, there are two gaskets for each leg, one is the thigh gasket (which the knee armour plate is connected to, and a shin gasket. The shin gasket tucks under the thigh/knee gasket which causes the overhanging knee plate that I see often 2. Some of the finger armour appears to have a recessed groove like the hand plate. Every second and third finger plate has the groove, whilst only the thumb tip has a groove. The index and middle finger armour also has a raised section with a small pillbox like recess (like the hand plate). 3. In the CRL and visual guide the SE-44c has chroming but the one she fires in the film is all black. Are either OK? 4. The frown on TLJ Phasma is a lot tighter than TFA Phasma. I've been measuring against the Anovos I am deconstructing and there are some differences that make the frown thinner. I have yet to document this properly. I am starting to think they changed the faceplate only, not the whole bucket. Thigh/knee/shin gasket references: Here is the overhang reference: Finger Armour references: SE-44C reference pics: