Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About PhilBobTheFish

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Stafford, VA
  • Interests
    Star Wars (of course), engineering, building, soccer

Standard Info

  • Name

Recent Profile Visitors

1,245 profile views
  1. The coverstrips should be fine squared off at the bottom of the shins. But you could always trim a slight angle to have it mesh the two halves together better. Take a look at some centurion requests and see how their shins were assembled. This will also let you see how WTF armor can be assembled.
  2. It would seem they have their blaster listed as "out of stock". Still, emailing to ask about buying one is a good option.
  3. How's this build been going? It may be late, but on your left bicep you should trim the coverstrip so that it doesn't extend over the edge of the armor (the bottom of the front coverstrip)
  4. The strapping pack should come with all the required hardware for centurion. I don't recall all E-11 makers, but I've seen good things about Hellhounds blasters. It's a rubber/foam blaster, so it'll stand up to trooping and won't break easily. It seems he sells them on etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/755159316/high-end-rubberfoam-stormtrooper-e-11?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=e-11&ref=sr_gallery-1-19&organic_search_click=1 Also another maker is praetorian blasters: https://m.facebook.com/BlasterMaker/ Here's a thread of someone asking about rubber E-11 makers. I've just skimmed it quickly, but it should be helpful. https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/who-is-making-rubber-hyperfirm-blasters-these-days.334768/
  5. Massive? I wish that's how mine were I know they have a small and large size for their gloves, and they sent me the small ones with my kit, so I'll speak on those. I have slightly big hands, but they were dang near skin tight. Though, for a person with smaller hands, they would probably fit better. So TrickyT81, if the commission hasn't shipped and you have smallish hands and are worried about the gloves being to large, you can try and email them and ask for small gloves. Vice versa, if you have slightly-large to large hands, go for the large gloves (it wouldn't hurt). If they don't fit, then you can always just buy new rubber gloves for a few bucks and glue the handguards on those.
  6. While I haven't ordered a commission from RS, I have built one of their kits. Overall, I was happy with the durability and quality of the armor. It's not the thickest armor, but isn't something that is worrying. Based off of others' commissions, RS commissions are usually very well built, and meet basic approval with little to no work, and the higher levels depending on the person wearing it. Some people have to make modifications, but if your body type is close to the original trooper size, then the commission should fit well no problem, with just fine tuning if you need it to fit you better. As for sitting in the kit? I can't do that in my armor (using the original strapping system), and I'll go out on a limb and assume most people can't sit in their armor. RS uses the same strapping system as the original armor, and I used the same in building my kit. I find it works very well, although not as practical or flexible as other methods of strapping. I also had to resew some snaps on some provided straps, but even that was only a minor issue. If you're going for the most accurate trooper you can, RS does all their assembly and strapping exactly the same (as far as I know), and you should be happy. So does the strapping work well, and is the armor good quality? I'd say yes. Can you sit? Probably not. Good choice on your armor, and I can't wait to see how it turns out.
  7. No, spraying black rubber on the inside should not affect approval or centurion. If you look at centurion approval requests, and build threads, many have black sprayed on the inside of the helmet. If you prefer how it looks, go for it, and it should be approvable so long as it doesn't affect the outside of the helmet. Same as how many people have fans and microphones in their helmets.
  8. At a price like that, with the front diaper included... What a steal!
  9. It looks like you also have space between the brow and the face plate. Try to line up the front edge of the trap with the edge of the eye, on each side, since you can pull the face forward to do so. I'm also not sure exactly how the WTF helmet fits together compared to other helmets, but it looks like you could angle the back and cap forward more, and pull it backwards and down slightly, to help close the gap with the tubes. It could be that the holes are misaligned now because you drilled and riveted both at the same time. You could always do one side first, and rivet it, and then that'll give you an anchor point to drill the hole on the other side. Either way, good luck with the helmet rivets, and the build looks great so far.
  10. Their boots are from Imperial Boots, so most people order a half size up, or full size if they want extra space or have wide feet.
  11. I'd you cut the cover strip to follow the curve of the inner half of the thighs, then cut off the excess plastic on the outer pieces, it will make it more comfortable and look neater. Good job so far!
  12. Also, as for the difference in the ridge height at the bottom of the thigh, I would like it up alone the top of the ridge, so that the cover strip can butt up against it evenly.
  13. For the thigh, you could take off more return edge on the bottom. It won't be visible, and will give your leg more flexibility. As for lining up the back, I would measure the top and bottom of your thigh, and a few inches, and then measure evenly on both the inner and outer part at the top and bottom. For example, a 25" diameter upper thigh, starting big, like 28 or 30 inches. Then measure from the front seam, around the inside along the bottom of the curve, and marking at around 14-15 inches, then measuring at the same height on the outside. Then for the bottom of the thigh, measure and add. Then, measure along the ridge, from the last corner to the edge of the piece, so that it will appear symmetrical. Connect the top mark with the bottom mark with a line on both pieces, and tape them together and test fit. From here, you can make it smaller or larger so it fits, and continue to test fit before cutting. This might have been a confusing explanation, so hopefully someone else can answer or explain better.
  14. Most people use E6000 or CA glue. E6000 is a little flexible, and you can remove it if you made a mistake. It's downside is it takes longer to dry. CA glue is used because it's fast and strong, but is less flexible and once it's on its not coming off.
  15. As you can see in the references of the original suit, the sides of the shoulder weren't cut perfectly straight. They were actually curved cuts, and this helps them fit closer to the chest and back in later assembly. Since you cut so close to the edge, you can always add the slight curve to the sides. Good work
  • Create New...