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About PhilBobTheFish

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  • Birthday June 15

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    Stafford, VA
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    Star Wars (of course), engineering, building, soccer

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  1. You're right, since it'll be covered by the strip, it isn't as important to get perfectly flush with each other. It's more of personal preference for how much time you want to put into those pieces, but a little gap is fine as long as it still looks the part once done. At that point, only you will know how it looks underneath. As said, you can sand both sides flat so they line up. Or, another way it to leave about an extra mm on each side of the join, and after trimming, slightly overlap one side over the other and trace the profile of it's trim, then follow that on the other side. This'll get them up closer together with less of a gap, and can be done carefully with your cutting tool, because you're basically copying the unstraight line and making the other side match it, like a puzzle piece. Either way, as long as it looks good with a coverstrip and looks good on you, you should be golden. Or rather, shiny white
  2. For the forearms, if you're arms aren't extra big or small, then you can trim the flat slide area to match the width of your cover strips. Trim equally from both sides, and the flat area will be around 12mm wide (if I remember correctly), as per the original suit. Then, you can tape the front, and slowly trim away at the back until it fits you comfortably. If you are going to need more room in your armor, leave the front wider, and use a wider coverstrip, and leave more plastic in the back. The important thing is having the front aligned, since it's a pre sculpted ridge, and even with your determined coverstrip. The back has more adjustability for your desired width. Then, once both sides are trimmed, you can tape it together as a mock finished piece, lined up with the bottom, and then trim the top to be smooth. Since I probably worded this in a confusing way, I'll try to find some build threads or pictures to illustrate what I'm trying to say. EDIT: here's ukswrath's section of forearms, and although it's an anovos kit, the basics of building armor can be carried over through most kits Also here's RS' video tutorial on building their forearm as per an original suit. These measurements are from the original suit, but the principle is the same, so you can alter the fit in the back to suit you.
  3. Yup. The two straps connect to the belt, with one snap on each side.
  4. As stated, the most important thing is a lack of return edge. So after completely removing that, you can see how it looks, and if you need to sand it flatter, or if it's fine and the curve isn't noticeable. My own forearms curve in slightly on the inside, but it's barely noticeable, and easier to leave it. I've ordered all my paints online, so you should be completely fine with that.
  5. The good thing is, you don't need to be too artistic to make a stormtrooper. Just perseverance and patience, and asking any questions you have so that you are sure of what you're going to do. 1. (A) The cover strip shouldn't go past the edge of the armor on any pieces. For the biceps and forearms, the cover strip just goes from edge to edge. For the Thighs, the cover strip goes from the top edge to above the raised area at the bottom of the thigh. The shins cover strips go from top to bottom on the front, and from under the raised area to the bottom on the back (only the outer half of the shin, so that it can still open). (B) It's not really expected that the cover strips will sit perfectly flush to the armor after glueing, and from most angles the tiny gaps will be unnoticeable. So unless you are really peeved by these gaps, or they are abnormally large, then you should be fine to leave them be. 2. The inside part of the armor is known as the return edge, and it's where the armor cuts in in the moulding process. Some people leave a bit of return edge on their armor for a sense of thickness, but others take it off for comfort. In the case of the biceps and forearms, you can take out the return edge at the top of the biceps and elbow, and this is perfectly fine. 3. Same thing for return edge on the thighs. You can partially or completely remove it if you need to. Also, for the back of the knee, do you mean cutting into the raised area of the armor? This was done on certain screen used armor, to allow for more mobility, and it's allowed here. As long as the cuts don't extend past the raised area of the armor. Check references for this, and measure twice before you cut, because it's always harder to put back plastic. 4. Yessir. 5. This depends on how your armor is assembled, and what strapping method you use. The main factor is how tall you are. If you're a bit shorter, you don't want the chest plate choking you out, so it'll be lower over the ab. If you're taller, it'll be stretched out a bit to accommodate the height. And if you use the original strapping method, it'll be fairly standard for how much it overlaps, but you can still change it from there. 6. For this, you can check the Sandtrooper CRL to see what they require for approval, or ask over on the MEPD forums. But yes, I'm pretty sure that for anything past basic approval as a Sandtrooper, you can't have the hard plastic shoulder bridges. 7. Velcro is good, but some people may not prefer it for rigorous movement. As for elastic and Velcro, this is about the only way to strap up armor using Velcro. Without elastic, nothing will stretch and flex and you move, so you will be fine will standing still, but will not be able to move and probably disconnect velcro. So elastic is the best thing to strap, as it supports the armor, and gives you the lenience to move easier. People have also used a combination of snaps and velcro sewed on to elastic for their armor, just for extra security. 8. The main thing with the side of the ab and kidney plates is not having a gap. So if you're a bit smaller and overlap a bit, this is better than having a small gap. So unless I'm wrong, avoid a gap, or ask your gml.
  6. I mean, if he hasn't sent it to you yet, I would definitely try to get a refund.
  7. It definitely looks like an RS recast. Are you able to cancel your order and get your money back?
  8. It's an easy fix, removing the paint and all. That's the only thing that stood out to me about your build, and everything looks great. If you check centurion and eib applications, you'll see the snap unpainted. For example, this request: Great build though! Can't wait to see you approved.
  9. To me it looks like you've painted your Han Snap on the ab plate white. If you did, you could easily remove that paint, so you don't get knocked for it. All in all, good job, and good luck.
  10. Go ahead and just cut out the entire bottom of the knee plate, so that you can fit it to the shin. This is about the only way to get it fitted, and will give it flex to shape to the calf.
  11. For mobility cuts, they must not extend past the raised area of the ridges. So, that might be below the edge of your current shim. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that the chest and ab plates have to sit perfectly flush with each other, just as long as they overlap.
  12. I believe it's just 1" black elastic (you can just use the same width as your current loops) and you can just buy a certain length of it. Then, you cut it so it's a longer loop, and if you don't want to sew it, you can glue the ends of it with super glue
  13. I've got water bathed parts that were already glued, and have never seen the glue melt in them. Sometimes it would separate because of how much I was shaping the plastic, and the glue just didn't hold. So it shouldn't melt, but if it does separate just reglue. Also, if you want your chest plate to overlap the ab plate more while using bracket, make the strap loops in the front longer. This will allow the chest to hang lower over the ab, and if you really need to shorten the strap then you can. On my armor, the ab isn't really supported by the chest, so the chest just hangs and is actually held up by the bracket loop. So, making the loop longer will give more overlap.
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