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Pics sent to GML - it`s HARD taking pictures on your own but on the upside there`s pics that you didn`t even know you took untill you are done Like this one: blooper/behind the scenes.. Some small tweeks to be done but overall I´m very pleased with my Stunt-kit from TM (troopermaster) and E11 from Imperial Warfighters

Hi all, Quick update here - Super excited to have received my BlastFX - Essentially my electronic module that will enable sound, lights and rumble action to my Blaster! I am a proud owner of one as it is compact and meets my every need. Paul is a great guy to deal with and always at the ready to answer any questions you may have. I actually received it a while back but did a terrible blunder; I short circuited the module and likely burnt out the speaker rendering the module without sound. As he provides battery hook-up instructions, I recommend heeding to the direction provided closely. I ended up commissioning him for my battery and switch install as I proved myself a novice blundering the way I did. Paul was very accommodating and got me on my way with a fully operational BlastFX in record speed! Furthermore, it comes standard with a good amount of wiring which comes in handy during the installation stage; I don't forsee any significant challenges when I get to this step. As for my battery source; I chose the recommended Li-Po type and choose out at 3.7 volts. It is recharged via USB charger and attaches / detaches via JST 2 Connector. Mine will take upwards of 2 to 2-1/2 hours to fully charge from zero. As for what I think if it; superb. It's compact, loaded with features, lights are bright enough(red for blaster bolt/ blue for stun), and sound quality is good. The Stun mode is very vivid sounding; likely to give you goosebumps as it gave me. Rifling through options in blaster types and displays gives you control over how you particularly want to operate it - great fun! Oh, there's also a 'soon to run out of ammo' sound and a 'out of ammo' sound as well during operation, which plays to kind of the realism of the whole thing. Oh yeah, and there's a mute operation as well which reveals lights only at trigger pull, which may come in handy based on the scope of a given troop. Apart from a slight electrical hum when the module is turned on, I give it two thumbs up! I did attempt to channel the possible electronic hobbyist in me over the course of three months by doing a ton of research into Arduino Boards / Sound Boards and electrical know-how on experimenting with bread boards etc. but honestly concluded it was too much time/energy/money overhead for me for even to get anything working so I went with the quick and easy route of getting this ready-to-install module and I am not regretting it one bit. Again, given that it's compact and loaded with features, it's one of my treasured components for my e-11 build. TRamp BlastFX enabling light, sound and rumble for install into doopydoos resin e-11 blaster BlastFX main processor (arduino / sound board) with micro SD card at 128 MB. JST 2 battery connector of choice shown Display, LED light, speaker and rumble motor On / Off switch and trigger along with mode button Battery of choice - Li-Po at 3.7 volts 1200 mAh current capacity Operational instructions My test set-up before installation cheers, Jesse Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know this won't happen until the new year but my EIB request is in. This has been such a great experience. I can't believe the top two items on my bucket list have happened. Stormtrooper armour and I'm in the 501st.

I've been asked by more than one Imperial Cadet recently if I would make a post that details the steps involved in becoming a Stormtrooper. Here it is, and here are the steps: 1. Find the First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment website/forums at www.whitearmor.net. You are reading this so, CONGRATULATIONS! You are well on your way! 2. Begin researching the available armor kits in the Getting Started section so that you can make an informed purchase, research is your best friend throughout this process: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/ 3. Contact your chosen armor vendor and begin waiting patiently for Big Brown Box Day. 4. While you're waiting, begin collecting your accessories for the build, and additionally required items like an E-11, boots, canvas belt, tools, snaps, etc. There is plenty more, but remember step #2. 5. Big Brown Box Day! (take pictures, this will be a day long remembered!) 6. Start your build thread at FISD here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/31-costuming-and-builds-501st/. Take pictures, take a deep breath, measure twice, cut once, ask questions before you do something you'll be unhappy about later, all mistakes (within reason) are fixable. 7. Complete the build of your High Quality Imperial Stormtrooper costume, and rejoice. It's about to get technical. 8. Ensure that you are 18 years old, and visit the 501st Legion website's Join Us page: http://www.501st.com/members/join_how.php 9. You will need to make a decision about what you'd like your TKID to be. You'll have to list five choices in your order of preference. Available numbers can be found here: http://www.501st.com/members/search_avail_ids.php 10. Fill out and submit the application found here: http://www.501st.com/members/join_form.php 11. Take your submission pictures and submit them to your Garrison Membership Liaison (GML). A list of the Garrisons can be found here: http://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.phpIf you don't know who your GML is/or how to contact him or her, this list will assist you with that process. Photo's required: Full length, Front, Side, Back, Side, Action and Helmet off. 12. After you submit your pictures to the GML, he or she will contact you (be patient) to let you know if your costume is accepted, if you need to make alterations, or whether you need to re-take any photos. 13. If you need to make alterations or re-take pictures, submit them in the same manner in which you submitted the first ones. 14. When your costume is accepted by the GML, he or she will forward your pictures to the Legion Membership Office for approval and assignment of your TKID. When your costume is accepted, all you can do is wait for an email from the 501st Legion to arrive, confirming your TKID assignment. Congratulations, and welcome to the 501st Legion, and again, be patient. 15. When you have received your assigned TKID, you have one more important step to complete, and that is to request Legion Access here at the FISD. You do that using this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/In your request post, include your newly assigned TKID, and a link to your Legion profile page.

Nice build, Andrew! Crazy that the same kit can fit me (5' 3") and you (5' 11") I'm wondering if you might need to change your ab shims; it's hard to tell but the CRL says that for EIB they can have visible seams but they should be flush. Yours look like they might be sitting under the ab/kidney. Also this is definitely due to your height, but in some of the photos it looks like the bottom of the chest might be slipping slightly under the top of the ab.

Ok. I got at it a little. One thing that wasn't on my ever growing list was to install inner cover strips on the shins. The amount I stress the shins opening them up every time I put them on had me worried. Glued in place with ample E6000. Shoulder bells. Before. After. Wider elastic (1") and tighter. If you look closely at the top edges of the bell you can see some discolouration. This is from my compression top. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser really helps clean this up. I was told about not keeping my black things against the white armour while not in use. If it sits in my armour bin for any amount of time, I put it in a white plastic bag. Gloves, neck seal, balaclava or under suit.

Nice addition there. It improves the general silhouette... good luck on your EIB application and congrats on your imminent fatherhood. Wish you the best.

I do ,,, the one i scanned and copied had full knurl.... Probably for screen accuracy some of the knurl needs to be wore or sanded off..... The tab and hole on the bottom is for mounting. I have put a notch in my tube so it can be screw into the back of my front part.. Its really hard to blaze that piece on because its on the edge...

Thanks Mike. Be sure to check out wook1138's AP build thread too. Great build and info.

I spent New Year's morning watching Star Wars, what else? Wow. It's amazing what you see with new eyes. Being immersed in armour for the last month and a bit has really made me notice things that were invisible to me before. Gaps, duct tape, inconsistencies between troopers's armour etc. Having done a couple of troops now I also know things that need changing on my own armour. New tighter elastic in the shoulders to hold them to the biceps better. Shorter straps between the biceps and shoulders to keep the bicep from popping out. More reshaping of my back to chest connection on the right side so it sits even flatter to the armour. More padding in the helmet to make it sit better and be more comfortable. Tighter compression pants. Current ones are too baggy. Even after throwing them in the dryer. New thinner amp in the chest (Aker 1505 is too thick with the belt clip on the back) with access to the volume control while wearing the suit. Will this ever end? Probably not, and that's ok.

Try using gorilla glue 2 part epoxy. Hasn't failed on me yet when filling cracks.

One of the inserts fell out (bad joint), so fixing it I should have used the drill bit and rotated by hand. After all the goofs, I get why those that have built can do a better job the second time.

Thank you! My nerves are still on edge everytime I cut... Lol. Don't want to make too big of a mistake. Having fun though! Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk

You are progressing nicely Andy. Keep up the good work trooper!

I would try to go a wee bit shorter, you can still see that the strip comes over the ridge, going higher with the ammo-pack would hide it...but if you want it to butt-up to the cover strip I would cut some more, just be careful cutting to much - you got this

Sorry to be bearer of bad news but cover strips are supposed to end at the ridges at the knee. Using E6000 makes it fairly easy to fix though - keep it up

Great pics of the shoulder straps Sean. They won't budge now! Good Luck on your EIB submission!

Biceps are coming together pretty good. I think I am going to leave the biceps for now and start on the forearms. When I am happy with the forearms, I will take a test fit with both biceps and forearms together. No glue for a while. Want to be able to correct if I need to. And plus, haven't bought any e6000 yet.... Hehe! That way, I am not tempted to use it. I will take a few more pictures of the biceps when I get home later. Capture a few more sides for you all to see. Stay tuned! Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk

Sean-I am far behind you in my AP build, but I will say this thread we very helpful. I learned about the silicon hand glue problem, and to fill my shoulder covers before I install them. THANK YOU! Hope to be close to submission by end of Jan. r/Mike

Nicely done!

Nice, thanks. I haven’t put any of the back pieces together yet so I’ll see how it all fits together before attaching them.

Congrats and welcome to the ranks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Butt-flare is quite common, yours is hardly visible but a bath might make it perfect, just remember to try with belt on, butt tends to "pop out" more when you close the belt. The belt will most likely fix that. Some suggestions besides what you already said yourself is: IF you want to go for it - I Think it looks great as it is right now, you`ve done great work 1# Shorten the strapping between butt/kidney 2# Move it closer to the ends Last resort 3# Brackets and elastic create tension that will pull the armor right.

They actually come curved from RS. I believe they’re pulled that way unlike other makers. Thanks man, it ‘feels’ right there [emoji4] Edit: not all makers but I’ve certainly seen flat ones out there

Awesome stuff. Just trying to be helpful, you’re well ahead of me though!

Thanks for all the advice! Appreciate it! Sanded them all with smoother edges, trimmed my shoulders, heat bent them, took my thighs apart and replied glue more heavily to make sure I had total coverage. Removing the glue was not that bad...I have a feeling I will be removing more in the future! Lol. Hoping to do some button painting tonight

Time to suit up!

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Hi all, Happy new year to all. :-) As I did with my blaster build, I’ve put together a short video of the build that I thought I’d share here. Mostly for my records down the line, but also just for fun. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Way to go!

Congratulations Trooper! Have fun out there!

Congratulations on your approval. Good luck on EI (and Centurion I hope)!

Ok, I understand the hole on the right but what is that on the left? I don't see that in any of my reference photos. Does anyone else have this on their kit? Most likely I'm going to move the shoulder straps further down so I'll end up filling it in I just looked at the CRL photo and it doesn't have it

The hook on the bicep is another detail that I noticed when inspecting the hot toys figure. I couldn't figure out what it was and then I stumbled across this photo on Facebook. It looks like it holds up the bicep with a piece of string or elastic. Jimmy's kit dose not have this detail, and to be honest, I didn't think I'm going to try to recreate it

Perfect shape of the part and that knurling pattern looks spot on, Chris. Just wondering, do you have a reference for the pattern covering the same area on front and rear side of that piece? And that ring on the bottom, is that a mounting hole?

I've also been picking away at strapping. I have never worked with line 24 snaps (or any snaps for that matter) until this build. I learned a few things. 1 - make sure the post is set all the way down. I didn't so this to the female snaps on my fist strap and I thought all my snap bases - that were already glued to my armor - were somehow faulty (moment of unmanly panic ensued). It was my female snaps on the straps - because of the give in the material (folded elastic) it can be deceiving to tell when they are set far enough. 2 - nylon webbing for bases works really well - but they do not offer much support when you are pressing really hard on a snap. I created a dent in my armor when trying to connect my poorly constructed snaps. Anyway, if you have not worked with snaps before, I recommend you don't be an idiot like me - actually make a few and test your snaps as you go to make sure they work before gluing them into your armor. Measuring and lining up the snap bases - all 1" nylon webbing. I roughed up the areas with sandpaper and glued with E-6000. The nylon bases adhere very well to the armor and can be pretty tough to remove. I worried that my snap bases along the bottom of the back piece are too close to the side edge - I misread instructions from another thread. It is hard to see in this pic, but there is a snap base on the other side of this piece - you can see the dent left after I pressed too hard trying to connect the snap on the other side. Okay, I admit it isn't that bad - it just freaked me out when it happened. I will try to use ABS bases whenever possible next time. Almost all my snap bases in. Missing one on the kidney and missing the shoulder strap snap bases. I used 1" elastic for the strapping connecting the back to the kidney. Finished elastic strap. Elastic strapping done. I found it hard to determine how to measure the elastic. Mine ended up pretty tight - to the point where it was pulling the armor together and overlapping. I'll wait to adjust this once I get everything connected and actually on me to see how it all sits. It is looking pretty good in this pic, but the final fitting will tell. Most everything else is being strapped together with 1" nylon. The kidney and the posterior should line up along the outside edge (see below) - and depending on how it is sitting, it does. This is another thing I will have to see how it actually looks when doing my fitting. I trimmed away enough of the return edge to these pieces that they do tend to overlap each other every now and then. The OCD is going to go nuts on this one. For the cod to posterior, I cut a 12" piece of 1" elastic. I attached the elastic to the cod with a split rivet and #6 washer. I had never set a split rivet before and it took me a little while to get the hang of it. It felt like I was going to bend or break the armor. I found a chisel in the garage which worked really well. I could pry the rivet apart with the chisel end, and then I set the chisel on its side over the rivet to help spread the rivet more and more. Then gently hammered the ends down. then it was time to connect the ab to the kidney with six split rivets (already painted white). I measured the distance of the holes along the left side of the ab and kidney. I cut 1" nylon and used a soldering iron to burn in the holes at the required spacing. I fitted it once without fully setting the split rivets just to see if there was any noticeable gap or if a strap was too loose. It looked good - there was a little bit of a gap but I figured that was ok since the rivets would tighten up once set. rivets set. The left side ab to kidney connection. My Christmas-enhanced waistline still fits in this puppy.

Hello everyone! Hope everyone is having a wonderful holiday celebration and here's an early Happy New Year to all you good folks at the FISD! Today, I update with revisions made on the magazine housing - it's catch assembly, the magazine ejector, making way for insertion of plastic replica magazine. Finally, I finish off with my custom aluminum trigger guard. I am to the moon and back when it came to getting a working and reliable catch assembly. Previous attempts on custom threading proved frustrating and futile; my solution with a Chicago screw and it's extender REALLY put a smile ear to ear for me =) Completing my custom trigger guard was also very rewarding as well as hollowing a large portion of the magazine well =) cheers! Mark 2 catch assembly - used Chicago screw with 1 inch extension. Butchered a 1/2 " extension to insert into catch piece Finished catch piece, forgoing green stuff additions on catch and instead file away bottom aluminum support section of catch to capture catch contours following SMG references Catch assembly, different angles Chicago screw extender cut to depth length of catch and glued in place inside catch using J-B weld Catch - various angles Magazine release button base removed and glued to top of Chicago screw using E-6000 Thickened shelf holding top part of exposed ejector using two thin styrene plastic sheets cut to pattern. Glued with E-6000 and Green stuff to finish up. Flattening the front part of the ejector made it no longer flush against the 'shelf' Catch assembly and ejector display of custom component parts for magazine housing Progression of ejector modifications of custom aluminum piece on the exposed end following SMG references Magazine release button, compression spring and catch rod in final position Catch and catch rod at final positioning on underside of magazine housing Installed catch assembly with ejector in magazine housing - various angles Installed catch assembly with ejector in magazine housing - various angles Setup for deepening the magazine housing channel for later insertion of plastic magazine replica. Dremel set up to be stationary, with magazine housing to slide overtop deck of cards for smooth movement during Dremel process. Dremel process for increasing the depth of the channel that would hold the magazine For final details, switched back to using Dremel extender. Square file to smooth out channel Process of Dremel out channel that would hold the magazine Channel widened and deepened to hold the magazine. More work to do after replica plastic magazine on hand for test fit. Magazine housing with channel deepened Original doopydoos channel configuration Vs modified channel Custom trigger guard made from aluminum - 4” long before bending to shape. Aluminum from T-Jay completion set on FISD Custom aluminum trigger guard is wider by 2mm in the front - 12mm in the front then 10mm in the rear following SMG references Doopydoos trigger guard - detached and attached Doopydoos trigger guard attachment to trigger housing Doopydoos trigger guard attachment to trigger housing Comparison of Doopydoos attached trigger guard to SMG references - it is inaccurate as it installs short compared to the real thing Research on trigger guard details - SMG reference and desired end result - this finished aluminum trigger guard by T-Jay Aluminum trigger guard, cut to length and width before shaping Construction of trigger guard - lines etched with hacksaw blade on the inside, under 1 / 3rd thickness so to guide aluminum during bending phase. Trigger piece pushed against shovel main aluminum tube body to shape so to get even distribution of bend. Test fit of custom trigger guard ends against trigger housing Comparison pictures - SMG reference to doopydoos part and custom aluminum trigger guard Completed custom aluminum trigger guard Thanks for reading once again; here's a shout out, an early one nonetheless, have a terrific start to the new year! Jesse Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now that my basic approval was submitted to my GML, I started back on the blaster to add the D-Ring for EIB. I masked off the blaster, just forward of the end cap. Then, I Dremeled off the formed D-Ring and drilled the mounting hole. Good thing, the Rubies cast makes the top section of the mold solid! After a bit of sanding and detailed filing, I installed the D-Ring from a spare light fixture, and I was ready for paint. I masked off the rest of the blaster with a large ziplok bag, and followed the same process (above) for painting the cap and new D-Ring. Voila! An EIB modded Rubies build. [emoji16][emoji16] Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

While showing my brother-in-law my TK yesterday I noticed something that's been on my mind recently and have decided to deal with it before my next troop this Saturday. Shoulder straps. While visiting wook1138's build thread, 68Brick asked him "...did you fill the back of the first bump on the straps with abs scraps?" Well, here's what I saw yesterday on my armour. I can see the strap coming away from the chest. That came off a little too easily. This part is bevelled and I realized I would need to build it up from behind, otherwise there would hardly be any surface area for the glue to adhere to. The same was true for these as well. Double layers. First layer glued in. And here it all is clamped in place. I'll let this dry for several hours today while I go see TLJ with my oldest friend, and then glue it back on the chest. I also noticed in some pics that where this strap meets my back it doesn't sit nice and flush. Now I will be able to put more of a curve into it, fixing this annoyance.

I had an amazing first troop. I'm in this for the charity, first and foremost. Friends, a close second. The charity was great. 5 Bad Guys Did Good today and I have 4 new friends. Great guys who really made me feel welcome in my new garrison. Thanks David, Brad, Andrew and Dan. I learned a bunch and had fun. Thanks Dan, TK-2759, for the cotton gloves to wear beneath my rubber gloves. Really made it easy to get my hands out after the troop and not have dish pan hands. And for straightening my drop box after that little girl hugged my leg. Thanks Brad, TK-21814 AKA 68Brick, for the advise on foam for fixing my thigh to make me look better. And thanks to each of the guys who asked me several times, knowing it was my first troop, if I was doing ok. Safety, really important. We shared stories and hugs after the troop. Again, amazing first troop.

TK-19165 reporting for duty! Wow, that was fast! Thanks everyone for your help and feedback. I look forward to serving with my garrison and meeting many of you in the future. I will continue my build thread with the mods and electronics I plan for my TK as well as any interesting info I may find useful.

Nice and compact. Good job on the liners.

Awesome Sean, So glad you posted this tutorial, exactly what I've been looking for for my lens install.

Looks like a ver 2.0 build with full metal parts is inevitable.

Full shot with shoulders moved as far forward as they can go. I've realized I need a tighter top for the under suit. It bunches up around the chest/shoulders/armpits and overlaps the armour. That's not good. It makes the black look bigger than it actually is. I can really see it in this photo. Oh well. What's a little more money spent on the armour at this point?

Here goes... I already know a few changes I need to make, just for wearability. I need straps to keep the biceps in the shoulders and tighter elastic between the chest and abdomen. This will help keep the chest plate a little lower. Also, one side of the butt sits wide from my hip. Either a strap or tighter elastic will fix that. I think I might need to bring the shoulders forward but not sure how. They are a little tight on me as well as a little short IMHO. I do think it is an outstanding set of armour. Kudos to Mark at AP. p.s. This is the first time I've put the shins on with the Velcro and I didn't line them up properly. You can see it in the back pic. I will make sure all is good and proper for my submission pics.

I've been avoiding the shins because of this. I was going to offset the pieces like you mentioned but I didn't even consider that they may be too short afterwards. Did you ask Mark if he has any other tricks? I was really hoping you would sort this out before I attempted it

By popular demand. New sheriff in town!