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And it’s DONE!! Yay! :-) This has been a bit of a grind at times, however, I’m really pleased with the final result. :-)

Great work! I’m impressed of your craftsmanship!

thanks! more pics after shortening biceps.

Hey hey everyone! Been awhile since I posted on here but I have made progress overall in the RS build! Finished the trimming and coverstrips for the forearms and biceps. Not going to bore anyone with the massive details, unless ya'll want them.....I can copy and paste what I had posted in my garrison's forums here. Thinking about taking the return edge the hell outta the biceps because, overtime, that shucks is gunna chafe the hell outta my arms. As of right now, I have the right thigh "finished" and am currently doing some last minute trims to the left. Front of the right thigh has its front coverstrip on, just uploaded what I had for now.

When your ready to get a set of armor let me know I will personally donate towards it. Great job young trooper.

After discovering new greeblies we didn't know existed for 43 years I added them to my blaster. Such a neat and cool add on from justjoseph63 that will likely be overlooked by most but still worth it.

As far as I can tell it was mostly the Bapty versions (seen below) that had the counter sitting that low, but since it's not too far back or forward and is a great looking blaster I would have no issues passing it at Centurion level. (Hint hint, Cory)...

Yeah that wording still confuses me. I went with the 1/2" diameter circle for the template. I don't know if my buttons are just bigger than the ones used on screen but the 7/16" was way too small. Even after I removed the tape and cleaned up the paint a little bit it still seemed like the painted area was too small. Also it was still pretty messy. So I just went back over it by hand without a template and I think it looks pretty good. Not perfect but pretty good?

Tak, buddy. That’s lovely to hear from you, sir. :-)

Now that’s a Helmet!

Outstanding work there. Also great work on the WIP thread. Been a lot of fun following your build Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Interested to see how the anti fog does for you.

One good place for the new E6000+ In the bin! Seriously, bin it off and just use the gorilla glue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! Not a problem to take more off those bicep return edges. I left a bit on there for aesthetics but not much.

Looking good Iman, also no issue with removing all the return edge from your biceps. The screen used armour had almost no return edge anywhere except where needed to mount the piano wire brackets on some of the body pieces. Comfort while trooping is an absolute priority.

Thanks! Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

Nice final touch with the greeblies! Well done!

Welp, a lot has happened since the last time I posted! Submitted for approval today! (Had a bit of an issue with the right shin, luckily it wasn't in my approval photos.)

Depends on the armor maker, some are a little easier than others, I used magnets, clamps and masking tape to get it to sit just right, I also didn't take off any of the clamps for 72 hours, the longer you leave the E6000 to dry the better.

I could ask if they would allow me to purchase one, however when I ordered I seem to remember they only would sell them if you did the full commission. I went the route of self build. I will email them anyhow as you are right, it couldn't hurt to ask.

You’re doing it the right way. My sniper knee was tough to get on, it just seemed to be fighting against me in every direction! The key is patience. Leave it clamped for as long as you can and you should be ok. Seems like you’re in the right track if you were able to leave the centre for 72 hours. Same again for the sides and you should be golden! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

David, Thanks. I finally finished modeling my tears and traps and will probably print them in resin this week. I discovered as I was doing this that there's small differences on either side because of the fiberglass casting, so I ended up making a separate file for each part. After I was done I realized that I probably could have just printed each one a little oversized and file the resin down to fit. Oh well.

Hey Jonas! Hope all is well over there. My DLT was put on hold because of the electronics issues. I finally received the DLT and E11 electronics about 3 weeks ago from TRamp in the UK. He is AWESOME BTW. In the meantime I have found out that we are moving across country again (yay for the military!!!) this summer. It will be a long 2 week trip. Canada is great but freakin huge. About 7500 kms door to door. Anyways, we had to by a new home in Gander, Newfoundland (just google it LOL) virtually, and just sold our home here in BC yesterday. Needless to say the projects were all put on hold for a few weeks. That’s why I started this up. I wanted a quick build and paint to feel like I accomplished something. I’m hoping to have this done for May 4th. Maybe a photo shoot with the SE-14 recreating the original publicity shots?

So what I've decided to do is use the bicep from the Mudtroopers design and make a jig or guide for those J hooks. It will be something you can print out and use to draw your template. I'm also going to make a backing that can be glued in place to provide a little more support around the hooks. Just in looking at my biceps, it feels like the cord running through the J hooks might rip through or crack the ABS and I'd expect the fiberglass might feel the same. I really don't see any other alternative than to reinforce this area from the inside.

Jeff, I didn't see this response a few days ago. I guess that means I was busy all weekend. Also, I slowed down on the ROTK over the last couple days because I'm getting very close on the ICAT build and started a Mudtrooper. For the ROTK, all I did this weekend was finish my suspenders and started the chest and back, but the TK should pick up again pretty quick in the next couple nights. So, regarding your second quote first, I already opened that can-o-worms. I need to look closer at the biceps and thighs, because I haven't seen any good reference photos of the cordage in these parts, but I'm confident you're correct about the forearms and shins. The forearms are actually what started me down this path. Paul shared a video on FB of his forearm closure system and I was sold. Also, after digging up some good reference pics, this is the direction I've decided to go with those pieces. I posted these pics back in January, but I'm almost treating this build thread as if I just started; so here they are again. Please ignore the dirty armor, I used a rather beat up 3D print forearm as my guinea pig. Also, that reminds me about this pic. and specifically the gap in the trim up at the top. Is that worth filling? Now, the left knee will be covered by the sniper knee, plus that has to be modified a little bit to open at the front with the knee attached. The CRL doesn't specify that this has to be seamless, but if I can't get this closed tighter, is it worth creating a "block" to fill in that gap? Getting back to the arms, I created the little shoulder tie points, but this weekend when I was on the Mudtrooper site, I saw that Empire3D created some small files for their piece. If anyone wants to try this out, and they have a 3d printer handy, you can grab the shoulder fasteners at https://mudtrooper.co.uk/. This is what they look like: Functionally it's pretty much the same exact design as mine, but theirs is actually modeled a little better because they beveled the bottom edge so it sits nicer in the shoulder bells. Honestly, I just don't feel like going into fusion and fixing mine, so I'll use the ones they created. If anyone wants to try the forearm system, I'll add the little blocks to my drop box for download. If you don't have a 3d printer and still want to try it, just DM me and I can make some pretty quick for you.

See here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/50907-newly-discovered-anh-e-11-greeblies-offer/

Alright, I made a suit up video. After that I walked around outside for awhile and waved to some cars. It was pretty fun

I cant see an issue with updating the title of the R1 CRL, however, as with all our costumes we have used the film title as the easiest and most recognizable prospect for everyone old and new to understand. This means I would not be in favor of removing the Rogue One form the title but happy to add maybe something like (Anthology) in the title, that should give it sufficient separation or understanding for those inclined. Originally FISD was simply for Shiny white TK's, this is why there has not been a CRL created for the Endor variant of trooper from ROTJ. yes there has been discussion over the years but no one prepared to make the costume. As others have mentioned, it still takes a member to want to put in the hard work to co write the CRL and build the costume complete with reference images. First step, have minimum 4 reference images (front, back , left and right side) This is a minimum for the LMO's to entertain a new to legion CRL. Then you need a list of descriptions that differentiate the costume from an already existing one. Seems to be more mixing and matching going on with hard armour than with a soft costume making it a little more difficult for someone to build without decent modification. Princess seams are comparatively easy as opposed building hard armour lol. You guys want this to happen, put the cases forward separately so I can start dialogue with the LMO team. Trust me its easier to start here than to build a costume then try and get them onside to have it as an approved item. There are more of them now which means more scrutiny at basic level so be prepared.

That's absolutely amazing! I think you should be featured not only in the next FISD newsletter, but also the 501st newsletter. @Sly11 @gmrhodes13

almost almost done!!! action!!! and on second thought, I've decided to do what Ukswrath (Tony) suggested, and shorten the biceps, so that's what I'll do. please feel free to criticize, and tell me if I should change anything for accuracy.

updated padding in the helmet, now it fits better. so now... I'm done? I can't believe I'm done already. I'm gonna try on the completed costume, and see how it looks.

This should never have happened in the first place. I agree 100%. This should not have happened. The reason I bring up the Black Series figures is to show Disney/ Lucasfilm intent through their marketing/ merchandising. What was explained to me is that they intended to put Mountain Troopers in Galaxy's Edge, but haven't as of yet. However, Lucasfilm blessed off on the character itself as a Hasbro Galaxy's Edge exclusive (that later found its way to Target). Additionally, I just read that the character was mentioned in Pablo Hidalgo's "The Star Wars Book"??? I don't have the book, so someone will have to confirm this for me. Regardless, the character now lives as a genuine member of the First Order. Though I love the costume and the Pathfinders, I agree that it should never have found its way into the databank or detachment. Ultimately, Lucasfilm intended for it to exist as a stand alone character. I assume the same is true for the Remnant Stormtrooper. Thanks Jeff. Curious if anyone here was able to grab The Mandalorian: The Ultimate Visual Guide before they pulled it off the shelves? That was another Pablo Hidalgo creation and I'm wondering if they did anything on the Stormtroopers in there. I also agree with your assessment here. I didn't put this pic up, but I did find it funny that in season 2 (Chapter 15) that they reintroduced the Remnants, but also had a few shiny guys (ROTK) mixed in. But, rather than scatter the ROTKs throughout the crowd, they had them standing off to the side in a pseudo "formation" kind of talking amongst themselves while everyone else flailed about celebrating. If it were this pic alone that told the story, I think it says a lot, but again, I imagine it's simply the producers doing what they could, with what they had. It will be interesting to see what they do with the seemingly unlimited resources they've been given for season 3. This question came up during the draft of the Scout CRL. Detachment staff decided to forgo higher level requirements for a year. This gives the community additional opportunities to find additional information pertaining to the costume. For a heavily weathered trooper, I agree that identifying EIB and Centurion requirements would be challenging, but I also don't think we should deviate from what's been established in the current CRL. I know I've said this before, but I really appreciate the great work you did on it.

alright, as per the advice of gmrhodes13 (Glen) and ukswrath (Tony) I trimmed the chest at the top. I've decided not to trim the biceps cause, well I'm lazy lol first I ripped off the shoulder straps then I trimmed off about an inch around the neck and two top points then re-glued the shoulder straps then I heat shaped it a little bit then I tried it on with the rest of the armor, along with the new boots! action!!!

test fit the chest flares out at the sides way too much, so my dad suggested a side strap, like the ones on ROTK's. I'll probably do that.

Hello everyone, Recently, I've been working on making an E11. However, I've been having a lot of trouble sourcing a wire that is both accurate, and is easily made into a spring. (Unless there is already a spring pre-made). I've tried coat-hanger wire, but I've had little success. Does anyone have any ideas where I could buy a budget-friendly wire? Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Glad you finally got yours, Cory. Nice that yours came with the upgraded pieces. You can see what I'm talking about in my E-11 blaster review and photo comparison. I'm hoping to have him send me those parts and attach after the fact. My H-counter doesn't have brackets either, BTW.

Wow that is a good looking blaster.

Hi Josh, the thickness of the wire makes a very big difference here. The original spring wire's thickness was 1.8 mm. A wire of that thickness can be wrapped around a broomstick for example to get a suitable result. With 2.0 mm and more it gets much harder. When wrapping the wire around the broomstick, protect your hands by wearing gloves. That makes it easier.

Adding the BlastFX. Let me just say that Paul Withrow's BlastFX is an amazing product. I don't have any good pictures but I installed the barrel LED at the far end of my clear tube. Installed the LED strip inside of that tube and shortened the wires to both as there isn't a whole lot of spare room in the E-11 itself. I also switched out the power wire to a 4 wire 24GA telephone cord and incorporated the Shape Ways end cap switch and a USB charger for my battery. The battery will be located inside the magazine so that I can replace it if it dies. The wires for the two screens, Hengstler switch and speaker I switched to an old computer ribbon cable so that there would essentially be a single wire ribbon running to the scope and Hengstler. The biggest hurdle by far is trying to manipulate all of this into the barrel and I regret not having the presence of mind to photograph the subway train. Ultimately I ran the ribbon up and over the clear tube which was followed closely by the BlastFX and the wiring for the power switch with my bolt and spring. Once I got it all in there and was happy I began wiring the smaller screen into my Bulldog Props M38 sight. This thing is legit and comes with all the screws and doo dads. It is very detailed and there are various kit options so you can order the one that's right for your personal tastes. I opted for a electronics ready kit knowing I was placing the electronics into it. A screen holder was shaved down a bit to get the perfect magnification. I found that if the magnifier was too far from the screen it would get pretty big. Here you can see how I split off the section for the scope and fed it through the front foot. The power switch and charging port are concealed inside the end of the pipe. It may have been simpler to turn on and off if the switch was in a more accessible location but I like having it out of view. The two small holes were an attempt to be clever on my part and make passages for the wires to run through the resin and come out where I cut a hole for my trigger and selector wires. I borrowed some really long drill bits and all was working to plan until those bits grabbed that plastic insert and went that way. As mentioned above I used 4 wire telephone cord to run the charging line to the battery and power to the blast FX. There is a noth under my PVC/Marker bolt and the charging board is shrink wrapped. The wire comes out and goes under the spring a couple turns in and under the rest of the spring until clear of the bolt. The only visible portion is right there under the rear sight. I was even able to throw on my (non)fold-able stock tonight. A couple more paint touch ups and I think I'll be ready for the next project!