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About Short4ATrooper

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  1. I don’t think the sand and score approach is necessarily a ‘must do’ but it’s more of a belt and braces type of thing that should result in a stronger bond if you are having trouble. I have an RWA TK and a TX and it’s what I’ve done with both kits. Ross most likely doesn’t mention it in his videos because he uses a much stronger and less forgiving glue called Stelmax. For the shins, if you’re worried about the added stress from opening the backs, I’d add an internal cover strip at the front. It’s what I did with my TK and although I haven’t trooped with it yet, I’ve worn them multiple times
  2. How long did you leave it for and how did you prepare the surfaces? The new E6000 has...mixed reviews. I use Gorilla Glue, this one: It’s just as forgiving as E6000 and should be tightly bonded after 24 hours. When I’m glueing cover strips, I sand the back of the cover strip with 120 as well as the area on the arm/leg piece. I also lightly score the back of the cover strip with a blade. Already the glue evenly on the cover strip and apply a few small beads to the limb. Leave a minute or two before you apply the strip, then leave clamped for a minimum of 24hrs. Temperature is also a fact
  3. If you have some spare ABS, cut a 15mm wide strip into 1-2 inch long pieces. Tape 2 or 3 of these together and place them in the inside cover strip ridge. If your magnets are strong enough, they’ll hold flat on the scrap ABS pieces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. That’s an impressive clamp collection! I also find these type of ratchet clamps really useful, particularly for the ends of the cover strips on areas like biceps and forearms. They have big rubber ‘feet’ so they cover a large surface area but won’t damage the plastic. They’re also surprisingly manoeuvrable for tight areas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Nice catch, thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. No, mine is also an ANH and has those two barrels (power cylinders) I just haven’t attached them yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. That’s the Hengstler counter. I believe it should be mounted to the underside of the scope rail using two L shaped brackets: You can see it runs parallel to the barrel and scope rail Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. It’s no problem! I appreciate all input. I’d honestly love to get a 3D printer, I just don’t have anywhere to put it. First world problems! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks but I should clarify - I’m not printing the files myself, I’ve ordered it as a kit from an Etsy seller (ChrisHullProps) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Once the paint has fully dried, you should be able to scrape it away with a toothpick. This won’t scratch your armor and will allow you to work the paint back to your desired line. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks very much, this’ll be very useful. Your T21 looks awesome by the way ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks! Well, I searched the weapons section for T-21 and scoured through 3-4 pages of posts. No 3D print builds found so far. I think I might be on my own with this one. But the reference photos of what goes where should be enough to help and I’ll get a WIP going once it arrives too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Oh and sorry but what’s MEPD? [emoji2359] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks mate, I think it’ll be a very slow build but I’ve had some practice with an E11 kit which went pretty well. I’ll do as much research as possible and look at plenty of reference photos. Hopefully that’ll help [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Hi all, Currently building a TX and have a T21 on order from ChrisHullProps. I’m struggling to find any WIPs of a build from 3D printed parts. All I’ve been able to find are either finished blasters applying for clearance or from scratch builds. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction so that I’m not completely clueless when my kit arrives please? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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