Leaderboard

The numbers are falling fast and at this rate come January we might hit the magic 500. It’s getting exciting! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was pointed out that the wrist openings had still a little curve of the return remaining: They should be totally flat, so I brought out the Dremel and sand paper and removed the last residual return:

Those of you who know me were probably waiting for this, lol, but I have a couple of suggestions if I may, Rodney. You have quite a bit of return edge(s) left on the biceps. While some folks like the thicker look it gives the armor, it can cut into you (especially after a few hours of trooping with your arms bent) and is actually not very screen-accurate. It will not affect approval at any level, but I personally suggest trimming it off or at least down a bit. Screen used armor examples The biceps as you have them below are also a little loose fitting. Some trimming (equally on both edges, front and rear) would help eliminate this. Go a little at a time until they are comfortable but not too snug, allowing for a free range of movement. BUT, if you do decide to remove the return edges, do that before final fitting/gluing. I have a thread here which will give you a bit more info. on return edges: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/?tab=comments#comment-670906 One thing I would strongly suggest at this point is to start a build thread for your whole kit. You have nailed adding photos so you are in good shape there, but if you have a thread that covers your entire build it will help us help you! You can ask all the questions you may will have (as many as you like), post up lots of photos and show off your progress all in one place! Doing this will not only help you/us keep track, but it can serve as a reference for others.

I hate to stir up trouble, wait no I love to stir up trouble... But I'd encourage a revisitation of this program, especially in a COVID-era world where "in-person" mentorship has become a safety concern for many of us. I'd love to see more deserving people wearing this badge for their efforts in assisting others, and perhaps the number of wins can be adjusted if it gets out of hand. Of course I'd love another little badge myself, but in general, I think it's important to recognize those who go above and beyond in assisting troopers on an individual basis with their armor for an extended period of time, and it's a brave new world for many of us with the global pandemic. Anyone else have thoughts on the "in-person" requirement for this award? I see folks thanked and recognized for their assistance on threads regularly, but not many of these badges...

Honored to serve with all of you. Who's next? Congrats to all who have made it here before me, and to all those making their way here, you got this. With this support team - anything is possible!

Dennis Mueller 60446 Centurion Letter Size justjoseph63 http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/60466-centurion.png

Good Evening all and Hello!! My Names Tom and I'm from Oxfordshire in the UK. I am a complete novice to this however I would like to have a go at creating my own costume. I have a background in carpentry so I am hoping some of the skills are transferable to this, but we will see. I have had a quick look around the Forum but it all seems a bit daunting. I guess the first question is where is a good place to start? I'm excited to make a start and I look forward to picking your expert brains in the process to help me along my way. Thanks Tom

Correct. Even at 1000 EI we are far short of our target with is closer to 2400 EI. It's really trying to be yet another carrot to incentivize people to go EI, in this case by helping others to get to EI.

Is this kit ABS or fiberglass Michael? If ABS its relatively easy but i would suggest not trimming to length or circumference without wearing your under suit and working from that point. You dont want to take too much material away leaving parts short. or too narrow to fit once the under suit is on. You can look at many TK armour building threads to see how this is done, doesn't have to be R1 to get the general idea. The first cut is always the hardest and was for all of us that had never modified or built armour before. There is a rule to follow, measure twice, cut once. It can also help to remove less than you need to then re check the size. If still too large, then re mark and trim again.

Hello and welcome aboard, can't say I've seen a smaller framed person with a R1 build thread here but I may be wrong, it would be a case of trimming to your size so it's a bit hard to say how much to trim. I would advise having a look at others R1 build threads as well as the R1 Gallery Section and work from there.

I think it’s time to revisit this thread started by Dan @CableGuy It’s a nice way the get to know a little about the avatars you see on screen. Perhaps we can get some more players this time around as well as see if something has changed with the first participants. Now....I would get the ball rolling but I feel it’s only right that Dan takes the lead ones again (but only if you want too)

Though I like the idea if virtually helping people build their armor was credited some of us here would be in the upper 100s if not 1000s

Alright Dennis great job. Welcome to Centurion brother

Fantastic job Ken and congratulations. Welcome to Centurion

Thank you for all your work!

Thanks for your service Daniel. Take care of yourself and I’m sure we will see you around the forums.

Man bummer on the paint but at least it is only paint and you can rework it. Hero helmets are so very cool, I’ve built some for others but not one for me. It is on my todo list. Keep forging ahead and you will get there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Daniel, thank you for all of your help and guidance and encouragement my friend. You may be stepping down, but I will always look up to your work and guidance. Thank you brother for everything. From the bottom of my heart.

Ken!!!!!! Congratulations Brother!!!! Welcome to the ranks. See you soon.

Updated

Thanks, I got the UK 12. Hopefully it works out.

welcome Trooper

Congrats! Everyone is killing it! And big clap for the team working through approvals. Sent from my Imperial Comlink

Hey Swede, I hope all is well in your real life and that there wasn't anything too negative that prompted this decision. I know we can all get a little salty on here at times due to our passion... I appreciate your work here on the boards and always value your input, and we all deserve a well-earned break from time to time. I'm sure we'll see you around and wish you the best!

Another trip home, and some more (slow) progress on the helmet. Installed the padding and played a little with the positioning of the fans. I've settled to install the fans as shown in the picture but - as can be seen on the right - the cable isn't long enough to reach the Anker, so I'm gonna have to add some length to the cable first. I ordered an E-11 from ImperialWarfigthers on Friday, and it's set to reach me just before christmas My plans to build an E-11 myself aren't canceled, but merely delayed, due to the lack of a doopydoos kit. Unfortunately there have been no news on my garrison application so far, but it shouldn't take much longer now. Now it's time for me to browse ukswraths fancy electronics section

Thank you all for the welcome, i have joined ukg, but still trying to work out what i need to do and who i need to talk to as still new to all this even with information my brains not working lol..

Sorry to hear Daniel, with everything going in these days I/we completely understand. Thank you for your service to the FISD and its community

Thank you for your service to the community Daniel

Thank you for your service to the Detachment and it’s members Daniel, take care and see you around the forums. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear this, Daniel. I hope to still see you around the boards here and there. Best wishes Dan :-)

They look very similar to the FOTK

left or right?

Nice work trooper, a great build overall, a couple of suggestions before the DO's get here: Your shoulder straps on the back are not quite centered to the backplate, also there is white excess elastic showing Noticed your cocking lever is silver, these are normally black star- Could you also post thigh ammo strip inside connectors, I know the DO's like to see that Good luck with approval although I doubt you will need it.

finally figured out image sharing ugh :-)

As Mike has now sold the armor used for the initial TFU Stormtrooper CRL I will start a new thread so we can carry on, thank you once again Mike "SolidScrafty" TK80494 for starting the CRL and good luck with your future projects. Updates from the TKC have been brought over as well as a few things moved for basic approval, as the TFU Stormtrooper is lightly scuffed / battle worn which is a major difference between it and a OTTK it should be requirement for basic approval. Assembly can be either overlap or butt/join/coverstip as per TKC CRL Google drive CRL images https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16RvrDvfdKSEtVPmMp1FMWih2e3Z-ZqUX?usp=sharing Build thread here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/50096-tfu-tk-build-85421/ Previous CRL in progress is here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_TFU Description: Stormtrooper - The Force Unleashed (TFU) Prefix: TK Detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Context: The Force Unleashed Stormtroopers fanatically loyal to the Empire and impossible to sway from the Imperial cause, they wear imposing white armor offering a wide range of survival equipment and temperature controls that allow the soldiers to survive in almost any environment. Stormtrooper, The Force Unleashed Model TK-85421, Photo by Glen Rhodes General Construction Notes Assembly can be either overlap or butt/join/cover strip methods. All Armor parts are weathered, lightly scuffed, battle damaged. Weathering must match visual references. See Stormtrooper: TFU Weathering for more information. Images to be added to the weathering section. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey with a black outline. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar. Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. - Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. S-trim join is on the rear of the helmet Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. The vocoder must be integrated into the helmet, and not a separate piece. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Undersuit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. Shoulder straps shall not have large flat tabs on the ends, they shall be ribbed 100%. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Shoulder straps have dark weathering on both front and rear of the straps. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bells have a slight outward curve with square corners not rounded. No lower elastic straps across the biceps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Upper Arm Armor Biceps are fully closed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearm Armor Forearms are fully closed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.: OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves in black. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, affixed to rubber gloves: OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back shall be either black or not present. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Back Armor Back plate contains a "O II" design. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Inner recessed plate corners have black detail/weathering. There is a small silver screw (can be painted or decal) in the middle bottom of the inner recessed plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Abdomen Armor Ab plate buttons shall be all black. Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB. The left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate). A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All buttons on the ab plate are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter which are lined up with the ones on the kidney. Approximate placement of the rivets is: 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the fabric belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white. Kidney & Posterior Armor A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges. The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, approximate placement of the rivets is: 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the fabric belt and 20mm from the side seam, all painted white. Belt Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt). The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white. The drop boxes are white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt. The belt may be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Leather and vinyl are not accurate. There are two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt. There should be no center square button or rivet, it is not accurate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle. Square buttons are positioned approximately 5-10mm from the end of the belt Drop boxes are closed in the back. The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white. Game ROTJ https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:TK_rotj_detonator.png Thermal Detonator (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately @1" (25mm) wide. The thermal detonator may be either ROTJ or the "game style" version. The ANH/ESB style is not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Only "game style" thermal detonator can be used. Thigh Armor Thigh armor shall be closed in the back. The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt is not rounded off like ANH OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references. The thigh ammo is glued and has no rivets. Lower Leg Armor Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate is glued and has no rivets. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories E-11 Blaster (ESB) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock is placed in the closed position. No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. The M-19 scope is preferred. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro / Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions. The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. E-11 Blaster (ROTJ) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock is placed in the closed position. No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel shall be covered). If using the popular commercially available Stormtrooper blasters, you shall grind off the T-tracks and replace them with U shaped channels and cover the open rows of holes (total of 7 U shaped channels in all). Correct greeblies on the left rear area shall be present (door catch and two "hammers"). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Folding stock shall be in the extended position. Hasbro / Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions. The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. SE-14R Blaster The SE-14R blaster may be carried. It shall have a correct scope if carried in lieu of the E-11 for informal events. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Lightsaber (The Force Unleashed) The hilt is Graflex style or has the characteristics of the Graflex, (reference Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from ANH and ESB). If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow. Note: Double blades, small Yoda style lightsaber, or inexpensive non-FX Hasbro Lightsaber toys are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The hilt shall be made to reference Starkiller's lightsaber (as seen in The Force Unleashed). OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): If the lightsaber has a blade, it may be one of the color blades used in the video game, The Force Unleashed. The choice of blade colors are: Black, Blue, Green, Gold, Purple, Red and Yellow.

Thanks Glen. I have started to build the CRL using your work Glen. Once complete it will go under LMO review Thanks for the effort you put in and those that started the original work last year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glen, Mario, thanks for clearing this up for me. I opted to try to get the left biceps to the same height as the right one, before I turn to the forearms. We'll see how it goes. Here is a picture of my very primitiv, but for now finished helmet interior: I also went with increasing the eye socket a tiny bit: My next try with the sniper knee is now done as well: The side shown in the last picture doesn't look good and will probably need to be redone, but are the middle and the other side ok?

I gotta' say that being a Stormtrooper has given me experiences that will last a lifetime.... being on stage with "Weird" Al Yancovic, trooping at Disney on many occasions, meeting Brian Muir (the guy who designed the original OT armor) and meeting hundreds of Troopers at Celebration Orlando last year. I started this whole thing a bit late in life, but I'm definitely making up for lost time, lol. That's me standing behind the banner (center) along with a few friends.

So your talking like this? I was wondering if someone can confirm that this is acceptable? It looks a lot more comfortable and cleaner Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Try removing and reattaching those cover strips leaving about a 1/4" gap on both seams. That might buy you enough space. Also, remove some of the upper return edge. That will help too. Oh and btw, the thigh ammo pack is attached wrong. It should be attached like this: