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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About OddViking327

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  • 501st Unit
    Golden Gate Garrison

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  1. UPDATE May 2021: Imperial Arms 3D just released their V4 blaster today, which, based on this feedback on my build, has addressed all of the placement and accuracy issues (keyhole, knurled sights, some missing screw spots, and most notably, the scope and hengstler counter locations). Imperial Arms V4 E-11 blaster The only thing people might consider modding is to make an aluminum rail like I did, but his kit is now much easier to build "off the rack" now. Just be sure to do the work, and finish those print lines!
  2. @justjoseph63 Thanks, the one behind the lug is easy enough, and the scope one does look fairly consistent, but do you have a photo of the square detail with more of the blaster showing? I am not certain where that is on the blaster, or which side, or which way is toward the barrel?
  3. Behind the scenes shot. Corridor is a 3D image purchased from Shutterstock. The key is finding a background with similar lighting, at the exact same angle for the perspective to work (and having the trooper move in the physical space, so the feet are all at the right angles on the floor):
  4. I took some photos in a warehouse with a photographer a few months ago, and had this idea for a photo edit. Pics are by Jeff Cox, and the troopers are all me in my AM 4.5 armor (except the laying down one in the back, that is a Black Series figure, haha): I do edits like these from time to time, I am on Instagram as "Oddviking". I have done a lot with my Clone Trooper, but I love how glossy the classic TK is!
  5. Where are we on final positioning on these? I am ready to glue some on that I got from @justjoseph63, but I want to get it right. Also, do we have a guess as to how many have it on the front of the scope versus the back? Should I wait for a final CRL decision?
  6. @Scimitar Ah, that is good to know. I had thought they were also inset into the strip. So that would help maintain that strength. Good to know, so mine is just an alternate version. I will correct that assumption above.
  7. This design looks great! I agree with thinner walls at the contact point, but having some thin walls at the contact point is important. These snap together, and are magnets often chip when that happens to harshly. But also, the closer the can get, the better, as magnet strength diminishes greatly over distance, so even a minimum print thickness will work. Finally, they should probably be encased on top, but then, I suppose they can get glued in before mounting. for glue, I know E6000 is preferred for the rest of the build, but in this case, you need the speed of CA (with accelerator) to l
  8. I mounted my fail-safe snap at the top, and it works. I just made a single snap mount and strap, roughened the spots next to the pockets to prep them and glued them in with E6000. First the bottom mount, and let dry for 24 hours, and then snapped the strap on, and glued and clamped the end down taught. Once the second part was cured the next day, I tried it out, and it can be easily reached to snap shut, and extreme bending my leg never opens the top. To pop it open is even easier, just slide a finger down under the strap and it pops off. Finally to finish them off, I
  9. I had this as part of my full build last fall, but after wearing it a few times, and trooping for over 5 hours yesterday, I can now call it a successful method with confidence: Magnetic calf-closure system: Okay, I decided to try something new for my shin closures. This first set of photos is from my initial test, followed by the successful implementation of it. Many people have used Cricket's magnet closure system. Having trooped with some Velcro on my clone, I know that Velcro is not the most trustworthy. While I wanted to use magnets, I came up with a different approa
  10. As fun as this was for April Fool's Day, it probably should be archived so it doesn't confuse future members @Dark CMF.
  11. Great work, Jakob! We are so close now!
  12. Having had to move it on mine for Centurion, I also notice right away that the scope and counter are too far back. The scope back foot/mount should be more above the swivel point for the folding stock. His scope front is also upside-down, it should be low down instead of at the top. He is also missing a T-track on the right side, but probably left it off to match the left (where the bayonet lug means there wasn't one on the original E-11's) and to show off the light more. So strange to get most of the details looking great, but to miss a few key details.
  13. True @Sly11 I left the blaster for last, got approved without, and finished it for EIB and Centurion.
  14. A question for any CRL team here: I do the trading cards for my local garrison, and our rules state that the costume must only have props listed in the CRL (for instance, we had a Shoretrooper holding a Deathtrooper grenade, and while one did use it in Rogue One, it is not part of that costume's CRL). A while back I was unable to complete a card for a member, because the blaster didn't look like an E-11 at all in the front angle the way the trooper was holding it. Looking at this blaster here, I am now certain it was one of these, with the cross-hair detail on the front of the scope and
  15. Here is Eric Dyck's helmet history up through AM 4.5. Armor-wise, I know they updated the chest and back for accuracy, and I think the belt, after there were early issues with the 1.0 for getting to Centurion, but the new kits have no problem getting to Centurion. Most of the changes were the helmet:
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