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This is an All-In-One compilation of various resources for ANH Stunt Stormtrooper builds which will hopefully be helpful to prospective troopers as you get started and begin your research. Many TKs over many years have spent countless hours documenting their tips, tutorials, and builds, and this index includes posts and links which have been helpful on my own journey to the 501st. Printable PDF documents are included with select posts. This index will be updated as additional resources are created and identified by troopers helping troopers. 501st Legion Links: 501st Legion - Member Application 501st Legion - Available IDs 501st Legion - Garrison/Outpost World Map TK ANH Stunt CRL FISD Forums Getting Started - Read This First ANH (Stunt & Hero) Forum Tutotials, Tips, and How-Tos Vader's Valkyries (women of armour) Getting Started Forum Pinned Threads (selection) Various Types of Armor (Vetted Vendor List) by Daetrin Vendors to Avoid by RogueTrooper [NEW ADDITION] Common FISD Acronyms & Glossary by justjoseph63 Steps to Join the Legion by Dark CMF Cost of a Stormtrooper by Dday Imperial Attaché List by Pretzel Supply Lists OT TK Supply List by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) List of Soft Parts by justjoseph63 Build Tips and Resources Quick Reference Guide OT TKs by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Armor Party 101 by justjoseph63 Return Edges 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Paint Color Guide by themaninthesuitcase Billgrams One Stop Shop (some diagrams may be outdated) Things/tips you wished you had on your build by DTKC and others How to paint ab button plates by JBar Magnets 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Butt-joining Armor by ZacMuleer Sanding Before Gluing by Shinyarmour1 Make Heat Gun Return Edges by pandatrooper Make Return Edge Sealing Iron by Daetrin Making ABS Paste by kman (Print PDF) Resize Armor with ABS Scaps & Paste by Harbinger (Print PDF) Armor for Bigger Troopers by ELP Altering Armor for Shorter Troopers: See Cricket's builds (WTF, RS Props) ATA Armor Sizing by Thrawndike bar Armor Fitment for Skinny OTTKs by Morgi V-Tabs for Kidney & Butt by gmrhodes13, Cricket's implementation, Colin's implementation Kidney Plate Shimming by Bullseye Fix Back Plate Kidney Overlap by A.J. Hamler (also in his build thread) Reinforcing Super Strong Shoulder Bridges by A.J. Hamler (Print PDF) Arm Armor Assembly by pandatrooper [ARCHIVED] Forearm Alignment and Shoulder Bells by CableGuy Thighs Assembly by pandatrooper [ARCHIVED] Thigh Trimming by Cgarduc Fill Thigh Ridge Gaps with Sugru by justjoseph63 Angled Mobility Cuts Behind Knees by ABS80 Attaching Flexible Hand Guards by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Tips for Using E-6000 by jeebus68 and others E-6000 Safety Precautions (PPE) by cm325i Cover Strips threads: gazmosis, I'm Batman, sith_241, & Falciform13 ANH & ESB Cover Strip lengths and Ends by CableGuy Scribe technique for Cover Strips by chiefbonan Bending the ABS Belt by gazmosis, Boba_Skywalker3 Heat Bend Belt by pandatrooper Attaching Belt to Abs by GnrlGrievous Holster Placement on Belt by CableGuy Current (2021) Holster Placement by gmrhodes13 (follow-up to previous thread above) Belt Assembly by ukswrath Removable Holster with Snaps by Harbinger Belt, Holster, & Drop Boxes video tutorial by RWA (youtube) Combat a Fraying Canvas Belt by CallMeMrTibbles Thigh Ammo Pack Positioning by CableGuy Armor Thickness: 1.5mm, 2mm, Capped by Jakebullet Shoe/Boot Stretchers by justjoseph63, OneStrangeCyka GO TO Resources by ukswrath Strapping Systems Rivet Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Snap Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Snap Setting Hardware Solutions by TheRascalKing E6000 and Snaps Discussion by Harbinger, Snap Options by ukswrath Snaps with Rivet Heads by TheSwede Split Rivet Placement by DroidHunter How to Use a Rivet Tool by huttman How to Make Snap Plates by stukatrooper Elastic ABS Reinforcement by Cricket Magnetic Shin Closures by Cricket (Print PDF) Magnetic Shin Closures (supplement) by Zugor Alternate Magnetic Shin Closures by OddViking327 Types of Inner Strapping by Shinyarmour1 Internal Strapping by justjoseph63, nrgband RascalSnaps by TheRascalKing Thigh Garter System by Pencap510 Making Thigh Garters by Spectre Bicep Hooks by Pyrates and Brent Shin stabilization by Cricket and themaninthesuitcase Helmet Assembly ATA ABS Helmet Assembly by pandatrooper (Print PDF) ATA Stunt Helmet Assembly by Ales (Print PDF) ATA Helmet Build by maxsteele ANH TE2 Helmet Build by TK-4510 Helmet Ear Tutorial by gazmosis (Print PDF) Draw No Gap Ear Line by bpoodoo (Print PDF) Ear Trimming Foil Hack by trooper96 Choose Your Brow Height by CableGuy (Print PDF) Helmet Alignment by CableGuy (Print PDF) Template Painting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Tube Stripes by CableGuy (Print PDF) Vocoder Paint Examples by CableGuy (Print PDF) Helmet Painting Tips by CableGuy Replicate the Screen-Used Look by CableGuy Hovi Tip Found Part Groundbreaking Discovery! by Dan_O and Sly11 Helmet/Bucket/Lid Interior Attach Lenses Using Sugru by justjoseph63 (Print PDF) Mounting Lenses by Solcar23 Helmet Padding by Boba_Skywalker3 Hard Hat vs Foam Helmet Liner by han_solo1 Interior Painting #1 and #2 Post by Staffa359 Truck bed-liner vs plasti-dip by TheRascalKing Helmet Fan Placement by RLH2515 What's in Your Bucket by Ragtooth Helmet Interior Build by kamikaze Helmet Internals Purchase Options by JZYL Clean frown mesh install by Toothdoc & others TrooperTalk iOS App by BrinkHouse Voice Changer Suggestions by nick007 Voice Amp System by JFarwell iComm + Aker Volume by kaa1304 iComm Help by endy iComm 3D Box Holder by Garbz Modding an iComm with External Battery by Sly11 Video Tutorials (youtube) RS Prop Masters' series Pandatrooper's series TK-4510 (Trooperbay) Password to access scruffynerfherder CableGuy's build video series Armor Building with TK1636 (forum post here) RWA's Youtube Channel How to put on Stormtrooper Armor (dressing tips) by CableGuy Stormtrooper Series by Nairy Photo References FISD Gallery LFL Archive Photos: Part #1, Part #2 538 HD Screen Grabs by dashrazor (2010) 1059 frames of TKs in ANH by Jeklynhyde (2020) Armor Cleaning, Sanding, & Shining Wetsanding and Polishing by Ensi (Print PDF) Best Way to Clean Armor by Daetrin Novus Plastic Polish by Darth Aloha Armor Yellowing Yellowing Preventative Measures by Brandon Make Aged ABS White Again by dashrazor Reversing UV Damage on TK ABS (external) Trooperbay Whitening Gel (external) Password to access scruffynerfherder Additional Yellowing Discussion and Resources Combat holster staining thigh armor: suttontech post & Daetrin post Image Posting Photography Tips for Posting by CableGuy Posting Imgur Photos 101 by justjoseph63 Post images on Imgur by Ensi **NEW** Post images on Flickr by Nairy E-11 Blaster FISD E-11 Blaster Reference (Print PDF by Blaster Team) Rubber Blasters: Hyperfirm vs. Praetorian by kman Rubber Blasters: Hellhounds (vs. Hyperfirm & Praetorian) by MaskedVengeance Another Hellhounds Props E-11 variant review by Toothdoc Hellhounds Props E-11 Review/Experience by KaiserintheHood Completion Sets for E-11 Resin Kits by T-Jay Sterling SMG & E-11 3D Print Files by trooper96 [NEW RELEVANT POSTS] Full Aluminum Parts Kit by fieldmarshall Previously Unknown E-11 Prop Detail by Joe and gmrhodes13 TroopaCoola JMC E-11 Build by CableGuy Sterling Sub-Machine Gun Diagrams / Handbook / Images by gmrhodes13 Sterling Main Spring Forming Tool by trooper96 E-11 Suppliers 2021 by gmrhodes13 How to Smooth Out a 3D Printed E-11 by justjoseph63 Gun Rack for Blasters by T-Jay ANH E-11: Sterling vs Bapty Differences by justjoseph63 Scope / Hengstler Decals by gmrhodes13 The Leia Leveller - A Mr. No-Stripes E11 Recreation by revlimiter Armor Storage/Transport TK Storage Bin by Garrett803 Husky Cog Wheel Covers by GoofTrooper Add Shelves to Husky Bin by TK21999 Husky Bin Modification by VancouverTrooper Customizing your Transport Cases by OddViking327 FISD and Stormtrooper Supplemental Posts Armor Tree History by Locitus ATA Armor History by c6dy A Sad Day for FISD by Sly11 FISD User Ranks & Awards by Harbinger Your First Troop Tips by justjoseph63 Emergency Trooping Kit by justjoseph63 Tips for Hot Weather Trooping by justjoseph63 Talk Like a Stormtrooper by Thrawndike bar Christine's PVC Mannequin by Cricket Adjustable PVC Mannequin by TK4205 Terry's Duct Tape Mannequin by pandatrooper Trading Card Holster by swagger What does your TK ID Represent? by gmrhodes13 How did you choose your TK ID? by humperdingle Story Behind Your Nickname by Snaps Re-Introductions by CableGuy Differences Between OT TKs (Post #1) & (Post #2) by sharkbait Rogue One TK vs OT TK by 11b30b4 Joseph's TK Mancave by justjoseph63 Help Fix FISD Dead Links & Photos by Sly11 Using a Torch/Flashlight to Find Armor Cracks by CallMeMrTibbles FISD Memes by Morgi Recasting What is recasting and when is it bad? by Sonnenschein TM Troopermaster recast CFO by sskunky ANH Stunt Build Threads (WIPs) ukswrath (Tony) - ANOVOS (Print PDF by harris.adp) Harbinger (Brien) - ANOVOS kman (Kalani) - ANOVOS Uxorious (Fredrik) - ANOVOS Rat (Jim) - ANOVOS Blast 'Em! (Shane) - ANOVOS unfinished ukswrath (Tony) - AM 1.0 pandatrooper (Terry) - AM LTM (Lou) - AM A.J. Hamler (A.J.) - AM (Print PDF by MV) OddViking327 (Colin) - AM 4.5 AsBlondeAsLuke (Diana) - RS Props tsongololo (Jennifer) - RS Props DudeSidious (Wayne) - RS Props unfinished Cricket (Christine) - WTF, RS Props, RS #2 (Mr.) shashachu (Sha Sha) - WTF StrmTRPR85 (Jeff) - WTF LadyInWhite - AP (google doc) Pyrates (Aaron) - AP wook1138 (Greg) - AP zv288bot (Jorge) - AP Scimitar (Eric) - AP Bud Spaklur (Matt) - AP MechaPumpkin (Danny) - AP SpiceCredits (Rick) - AP batmanmike (Mike) - AP unfinished Shinyarmour1 (C) - AP unfinished (photography) rwmead10 (Ryan) - AP unfinished MightyAtom (Mark) - AP Sly11 (Andrew) - AP Dark CMF (Tim) - TR-Mod LEGOeatPokemon (Jonas) - SDS dereferenced (Brian) - T/MC unfinished Redforce (Anthony) - NE maxsteele (Ron) - NE CableGuy (Dan) - RWA CTID (Mark) - RWA NOTE: Many of the Pre-Approval, EIB, and Centurion request threads below are for ATA armor, as that is my armor type. Threads from other makers are included for their valuable content ATA Build Threads (WIPs) ukswrath (Tony) - rebuild Ensi (Daniel) DStep (D'Angelo) echo327 (Erick) StarTrooper (Jayke) TheLorelei (Lorelei) Bazz (Adi) Quixotic5891 (Antonio) RampantLion (Leo) REAPERofDAISYS (John) Zarlon (Kyle) gmrhodes13 (Glen) wingnut65 (Jeff) pandatrooper (Terry) - MEPD TD FIVE (Noel) - MEPD TD Flykiller (Jerome) - thigh question timecyspace (Clay) - unfinished MaskedVengeance (Caleb) - unfinished (Print PDF) Pre-Approval Requests Actionsdower (Jim) - RS iEmpire916 (William) - AP husky68 (Robert) - AP TKModder421 (Greg) - ANOVOS Jared (Jared) - ATA REN2100 (Ryan) - ATA Hotel (Jim) - ATA MissingNo (Peter) - ATA echo327 (Erick) - ATA 31-9 (Jayson) - ATA unfinished snipedoc2001 (Cody) - ATA Swarzo (Cory) - ATA unfinished Cesarisamisfit (Cesar) - ATA unfinished EI & Centurion Informational Threads Advanced Tactics: EIB and Centurion by justjoseph63 ANH Stunt EI Visual Checklist by Sly11 and Wingnut65 ANH Stunt EI Photo Submission Guidelines by justjoseph63 (PDF by Sly11) Multiple EIB Award Recipients by gmrhodes13 Expert Infantry Honor Gallery by gmrhodes13 ANH Stunt Centurion Visual Checklist by Sly11 and Wingnut65 ANH Stunt Centurion Photo Submission Guidelines by justjoseph63 (PDF by Sly11) EI Requests TKittell (Robert) - 100 AM Dargas (Richard) - 163 ATA gmrhodes13 (Glen) - 291 ATA Boba_Skywalker3 (Dominic) - 310 ATA TK6682 (Michael) - 337 RS Props Warwitch (Gabriel) - 340 TE2 EnemyZero (Tom) - 355 ATA ukswrath (Tony) - 435 ATA sylverbard (Mark) - 456 ATA YESSRAM (Yessid) - 465 ATA CrookKnight (Shawn) - 638 AP Cricket (Christine) - 700 RS Props TheRascalKing (Justin) - 807 ANOVOS Wargasm (Joshua) - 810 ATA lucnak (Luc) - 815 ATA Jared (Jared) - 841 ATA TK 71627 (Jose) - 850 WTF REAPERofDAISYS (John) - 944 ATA echo327 (Erick) - 948 ATA equuspolo (Ardeshir) - YR2019 ANOVOS Ruffalo - 949 RS Props husky68 (Robert) - 953 AP revlimiter (Adam) - 1037 AP benthemonkey (Ben) - 1044 RS Props Starkiller (Marek) - 1047 Anovos Nairy (Jonatan) - 1051 RS Props (also Hero) Doggydoc (Gerald) - 1052 AP MaskedVengeance (Caleb) - 1055 ATA Centurion Requests gazmosis (Steve) - 32 ATA Solcar23 (Carlos) - 52 ATA JEDISTAR (Charlie) - 60 ATA niugnep (David) - 76 AP piklz36 (David) - 86 ATA Jancelot (Chris) - 92 AP Techne (Chris) - 108 ATA RampantLion (Leonard) - 115 ATA Vader's Wingman (Jason) - 123 ATA ukswrath (Tony) - 144 ATA DarkOrder66 (Christopher) - 160 ATA YESSRAM (Yessid) - 165 ATA justjoseph63 (Joseph) - 167 AM2.0/ATA Squimspickle (Aaron) - 213 ATA Cricket (Christine) - 316 RS Props Daetrin (Paul) - 326 TM Soulart (Teresa) - 335 AP jamihal (Jim) - 344 ATA Ruthar (Taylor) - 354 ATA TheRascalKing (Justin) - 396 ANOVOS menschie (Colin) - 404 ATA Scimitar (Eric) - 425 AP (photography) Bazz (Adi) - 436 ATA MissionTrooper (Andrew) - 454 AP Ruffalo - 457 RS Props OddViking327 (Colin) - 485 AM MightyAtom (Mark) - 488 AP (photography) revlimiter (Adam) - 508 AP MaskedVengeance (Caleb) - 522 ATA Purchase Options (my build) Armor and helmet: Affordable Trooper Armor (ATA) Undersuit: Trooperbay One-Piece Double-Zipper (courtesy of a GA Garrison mate) Password to access scruffynerfherder Boots: Imperial Boots 421 (NAME CHANGE: KeepTrooping) Gloves: See hand guards below. (mine) Hand Guards: justjoseph63's kit [NO LONGER AVAILABLE] Strapping: TheRascalKing's kit Holster: Darman's 8oz leather (tan straps) Neck Seal: Darman's Premium (zipper) Belt: TKitell's Imperial Issue TD Hooks: ukswrath's kit Mounting Hardware: justjoseph63's kit Hovi Tip Screen/Mesh: ukswrath's kit Helmet Fans: ukswrath's Cooling Kits by ukswrath (Etsy) Voice Mod/Amp: iComm + Aker amp Blaster: Hellhounds Props E-11 Alternative Accessory Options: TrooperTronix Helmet Fans Henry's Helmet Fans DIY Neck Seal by BrinkHouse Making a TK Neck Seal by Doggydoc Geeky Pink's Neck Seals Making a TK Neck Seal by Doggydoc Also see Joseph's Soft Parts List above Other External Resources Ukswrath's Website Less Intimidating Build by imperialbrewer TK41973 Blog Tony Barnett TK300 Website (snaps) | FISD wordmark used with Command Staff permission |

Aww, thanks, troopers! Still working on filling small spots and sanding armor. It's too hot and humid to paint (grr!), so I get to focus a little on detail prep work. Today I'm working on kneecaps and ab boxes. Nothing exciting, but it's progress. Since I don't have any pics to share of my work, I thought I'd share a video of the event where Cameron donated his armor. This video link was just posted a few days ago, and it brought tears to my eyes. Events like this are the reason why I love being a part of the 501st Legion.

More painting... aaand... GO! Here are some of my tools'o'the'trade so I've got lots of options. In order to determine what brush would likely do the best for the purpose, I did a couple dry runs. Here's one that's wide, flat, & angle-tipped - This one may work well for the smaller teeth. Ah, another note.. I ran a utility knife on the edges of the teeth to clean them up one last time before we get the paint involved. If you're putting in mesh behind the frown, make sure you paint these guys first so you can get good coverage without painting your mesh. Wide, flat, flat tip. I ended up using this brush for all of the teeth (including the bitty ones at the end. This is a thin, round, & pointed tip brush. The shape doesn't fit for the little guys in the corner, so this was not used here. Thin, round, long pointed tip. This looked like it would be a decent fit, but I didn't end up using it. Getting ready with the Humbrol Gloss 5 Admiral Gray (if I remember the name right) & starting with that wide & flat brush. Every time before I open up on of these lil' guys, I shake them up vigourously for at least 30 seconds if not closer to a minute. I'll make another post after this (late on) to give some brush use angles, but this post is mostly just going to be the progress and results of painting. I used the flat edge of the brush to connect the corners to match the cut edge at the top and bottoms of the teeth and then connected the space in between. First coat on and ready to hang out for a while to dry After drying for ~16 hours (this paint only needs 6 between coats). For the traps, I used another wide brush, but to clean up the edges a little, I switched to the thin, round pointed tip brush. I filled in the traps & tears. I decided to go for full coverage so that the gray layer would have a full flat base to avoid the paint gradient being visible. Managed to forget about the ear bump here. We get back around to that. I rounded off the bump that was a little too square as well as giving the whole thing a general, thinner, second coat. This helped to flatten out the glossiness of the paint. And then I decided to tackle the tube stripes. I did not purchase stencils, but I did get a decal sheet. Here's a point to note the CRL again. CRL Survey says! (Expert Infantry)... "Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front." This phrase confused me until I searched through a few threads where the stripes had been put on the other way. Then I saw that it's referring to the angles of the ends of the stripes. At least that's what I think it's talking about. When positioned correctly, the ends of the stripes, particularly those closer to the front of the face, lean inward towards the face slightly. So with this decal sheet, you can see the end points on the inner edges are slightly lower than the points on the outer edges. That makes the one on the left for the right side tube (or in other words left from the front) and the ones on the right, the ones for the left tube (right from the front). Turns out these stripes are smaller in width than the painter's tape that I'm using and that the tape is transparent enough to see the stripes through it. So I used that to trace the stripes onto the tape Pulling up the tape, of course the decal wants to come up with the tape. None of that! Stay down you! ... pinned it down in place while I peeled the tape off. Same for other parts where it tried to take the stickers away. I drew lightly enough that this did not damage the decals (in case for whatever reason I decide/need to use them in the future). Then what to do with the tape? I needed to cut out the stripes to create a negative to use as a stencil. But that requires needing something hard underneath, and, well, it's painter's tape, so it's going to lose its stick if it touches anything else... So I put the tape on a plastic bag which I placed over a wood block. These are in the same orientation as on the decal sheet. This allowed me to cut out all the stripes, with care, using a utility knife. Then I marked another piece at a pencil width Putting the pencil width tape up against the face edge. I probably should have placed this guide line a little further in - more to the point, I should have tested the width with the pencil before putting on the stripe stencil, but no... Now the issue of carefully removing the tape without ripping it to pieces. I I pulled up along the edge gently until everything had released from the plastic. Then placed the inner edge to match up with the tape line for the pencil guide. I aimed for about a fingertip / pencil gap between the front and the tip of the forward-most strip. This stencil is _rough_. There's no way I'm getting a clean pull from this, and even if I could, the edges would be a bit janky. Again I will note, I checked the gap here, but failed to double check the distance from the side of the face. We'll see if I need to stretch these out. So I used the stencil to gently mark the tube in pencil. Which was just enough to show up to give me a painting guide. Adding another piece of tape at the bottom to give a guide for the outer ends. And then going to town. Same deal with the right side. It doesn't look like it's marked, but even a gentle pencil mark is enough to see on the tube when the stencil is removed and it's naked again. Adding the bottom guide ended up in more bunching on this side, but I was able to get good contact for the stripe ends. This process took a while. I flashed past it on the right tube, but it was a similar process to this. Painting, aiming to cover the pencil lines completely so they will not be visible after painting is finalized. Lots of oopsing into areas that aren't allowed to have paint. I tackled these areas with a toothpick dipped in paint thinner. Then wiping away the offenders with a cotton swab. Although this resulted at times in little fibers being left in the paint. No, no, no... But I was able to pick them off gently with fine-point tweezers. Not including the time to make and draw the stencil on, and with stops for pictures, both sides took roughly 40 minutes each. Painter's tape on. I removed the straight-edge tape guides right after completion, without waiting for the paint to dry. If I need to go for another coat in areas, I can add one back on. Stormtroopers look a little odd without their brows. These lines are not perfect and will need some cleaning up. It was later on that I decided to test the pencil width again, and found that I fell a bit short of hitting it. Hopefully I can extend the edges inward a little more without having to completely remove & repaint (although if it was necessary, I'd be willing to do so). Pencil for forward positioning reference (fast forward pic) This side is closer, and would not need much to improve. Pencil for forward positioning reference (fast forward pic) Looking again from a slightly different angle, the stage-right side does look like it needs to come in a bit more. Though not sure how much the uneven lighting is playing a factor. This is a point where I wouldn't mind input on if / how much I should stretch the stripes inward. Another coat to the teeth I went with just the one black base coat straight to graying out the traps & tears. If the black lines need more, I can touch them up later. When I was painting on the black, I managed to brush a couple of the wet sides against my pants as I was painting other areas and the paint picked up a bunch of fuzzies which are not so visible when the paint is black. But as glossy gray, these fuzz-bumps are much more prominent. I used a combination of scratching them off (gently) and rubbing the paint around to loosen them up and then removing with sharp precision tweezers. Which improved it somewhat. Same with the fuzzies on this one. WIP-pic Got the ear bumps painted now! The lines look a little thick, but if so, I can expand the gray out a bit more before (or after) painting the straight lines This ear bump was harder to figure where the outline should stop., but ultimately ended up with this shape And another coat to the teeth. The gray paint was getting a little sticky at this point, it may have been from the brush since I didn't clean it between this and the traps. And current state while I wait for the ear bumps to dry. Again, I'll do another post later for varying brush positions. Things left to do on the outside: - Make an attempt to straighten up the tube stripe lines, probably go around and finalize all edges to attempt a little more straight-edged looks. - Add lines to back traps & tears. - Gray out the ear bumps, then add one black stripe back - CRL (Centurion): "Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes)." - Clean off any remaining pencil lines. - Paint screws white. Not done yet since I still haven't put in the rivets - That may end up being the last thing that I end up painting on this bucket. - Plastic polish the dome (and just kind of all around) since the whole thing has experienced a fair bit of abuse in the past ~4 years. Any critiques are openly welcome on any adjustments so I can get this one wrapped up and move on to the next part.

Thank you all for your ideas, it seems those cases with the wheels seem to be the most liked, will sure have to pick one up! In other great news, my handplates finally arrived! Our Aussie post took weeks to deliver them thanks to COVID-19, to the point I thought we lost them. But they finally turned up. These were the last piece I needed to get to complete my TK for approval, no need to get anything else! These handplates were made by our good friend @justjoseph63 who has been very helpful throughout my build! Thanks mate, legend! I got two sets, one for me, and one for my dad. They are very good quality:

NFORMATION: 1. First/Last Name: Andreas Johann 2. Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost: German Garrison / White Shadows Squad 3. Armour Maker: 850 Armor Works 4. Helmet Maker: modified Black Series Rogue One Helmet 5. Cloth Belt Maker: 6. Neck Seal Maker: Darmans Prop Shop (ordered and on its way) 7. Boot Maker: painted Chelse Boots 9. Blaster Maker: DoopyDoos with T-Jays completion kit 11. Height: 5’ 8” 12. Weight: 88 kg 13. TK Type: Rogue One The shin is only twisted on this foto. What do you guys think of my build?

Next up was a bit of assembly. I glued the grip frame onto the blaster, painted the receiver top part black and glued the barrel and receiver onto the blaster. Unfortunately I forgot to take more photos but this is what I have... And lastly I couldn't resist checking to see how the newly painted grips fit. They are not glued in, just sitting in place. They look a little red in this photo but they are actually more brown. I'm happy. :-) Mark

That's fantastic news! Thank you for everyone's feedback and support. This community is truly an amazing resource and I wouldn't have made it to Centurion without the help from my fellow troopers. I am still blown away from the amount of information and knowledge of all things Stormtroopers that is shared here. It's a lot of fun to be able to share the same niche passion for Stormtrooper armor with people all around the world. I have had the goal of reaching Centurion ever since I joined FISD 4 years ago, ordered my armor 3 years ago, joining the 501st last year, and finally making the adjustments to reach the next level. I am quite proud of my armor and it remains on display in my living room whenever I'm not trooping. It's definitely the coolest thing I own, and I made it! And how cool is it that I was EIB #966, and now Centurion #466 awarded on 6/6! Order 66 anyone?

FANTASTIC job on those teeth, keeping paint off the gums! I think the only thing you need to do with them is fill in those gaps at either end. And wow you sure did put some excellent effort and detail into the tube stripes! I don’t think I’m that brave; I’ll probably just purchase the stencils (I currently have decals). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4 words: Mom of the YEAR!

Painted the mouth this evening. I'm really pleased with the way it came out, but I'm not sure I went out wide enough with the paint at the end of the frown? With so many different pics and versions of mouths for ANH stunt, I just chose one and tried to copy it. Let me know if anyone sees anything I got wrong. I ended up using a bit of white paint to touch up my "stead" hands. It doesn't seem to show unless I am using the flash. I am assuming this isn't an unusual practice, and it wont show in daylight?

This is exactly what I did!

I had a similar issue with my forearms, one of them had a funny angle on the flat areas under the cover strips, so I glued the funny areas first, it left a very wide forearm that had no chance of connecting without some good force. I let the E6000 dry, then I glued the other half. With both sides dry and set the forearm looked a lot better. After they had been fully set I did a hot water bath for 20-30 seconds to remove any tension on the parts, normally the bath is to mold the parts, in this case it was to just let the plastic relax a little. Not sure if that helps, but it worked for my forearm.

Finally finished the 76% scale F-11D. I didn't do as much post processing (sanding, filling, etc) as I typically would on a full-sized piece because I know I'll be making a full-sized one at some point to replace it. But in the meantime, this is good enough for playtime and trooping! I still need to paint the holster bracket silver and install clear lenses into the scope. I'll mount the bracket screws once I get the thigh bracket installed. And I almost forgot the decals! Those will get printed up soon.

Sup all! My name is Iman. I had joined the forums about 5 years ago, but due to some complications I had to put the dream of trooping on the back burner till I could get back on track. Now that I have things in order, I can finally focus on getting this ball rolling. Im in the process of saving up for a self build ANH trooper kit from RS Props. Hoping that I could get some help once I recieve the kit. (I have no idea what I'm doing in regards to putting the pieces together lol) Looking forward to my new adventure!

This... is... phenomenal! The amount of work that has gone into this borders on OCD, (which is what I love about it) . GREAT job, Caleb!

Thanks. I did, but triple checking since I can't return them. Thanks for the help! Edit: Ordered! Thanks again!

Looking forward to the progress, good luck

Your lucky number Trooper

The hot water can soften the glue, but you should be ok. If you think the glue has been compromised after the hot water bath, it is not difficult to remove the coverstrips and re-glue with new E6000. As far as timing after you glue with E6000 - as mentioned, 48 hours is best. I dipped about half the forearm into the water (due to the size of my pot) - it also took me close to a minute before the plastic was soft enough to shape. I think I did 3 baths before I had the shape I wanted. Remember to hold under cold water to set the shape. Keep up the great work!

Welcome and glad to have you here! As you'll see there are many awesome resources and build threads available that can guide you on your journey. As well once you have your BBB feel free to create your own build thread. That way as a community you can keep us up to date on your build and we in return can assist as you progress.

I've also been working on the helmet being as it's probably one of the more intricate parts. Here's a few images of it in lookdev mode and a smoothed out render.

@TKSpartan thanks! I'm trying to do EIB Level for my initial approval, but we'll see. Shoot for the moon, right?

Decided to add some photos from my WIP on my Hasbro Black Series bucket. Disassembly: Complete breakdown: Parts I don't need anymore: New lenses from OPLEProps on Etsy: New hovi mic tips from Ukswrath: Starting the slow and meticulous process of cutting out the vents: That's the only pics I've got so far, but it's coming along. Slow but steady.

Some put tape over the cover strips to cover the glue. I just dip in boiling water a few second and pull out. Should let the glue cure for 48 or 72 hours before hot bath. Rushing glue will mean having to do it all over again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow!! fantastic and detailed painting work. !! keep it up.

If you can get it Down under, this stuff is fantastic and will save you a lot of work. Sandable and quick drying,

Thanks. Appreciate you guiding Hideya san to Asa and me. I missed seeing this post on Sunday.

BTW, Hideya san, please sign up to the Japanese Forum. Great to have you on there and other members can also assist with any help as well if you need more advice on sourcing certain items . Sometimes I am not aware of all the options in Japan. I can post up there too and ask about the s trim if it can be found in Japan

Wow, that's awesome.

Welcome back Emma, and good luck on your build. Plenty of members here to help you along the way,so build with confidence, we got your back.

Welcome back Emma, Looking forward your build, good luck

Hoo-Rah!

looking good,

Yes Emma !! That forearm looks great. If you don't feel good enough, you have said you're a perfectionist, and if can make a suggestion of what I did exactly in the same situation: What I did was to use a couple of wood strips to affix the cover strips and place the clamps to pressure the cover and E6000 stronger. may be the photos can give you a better idea. And finally consider to leave the glue to dry for more time. at least 48 hours . Hope this can help. you're doing an excellent work cheers ,

All 4 section of the forearm are trimmed and sanded to the 15mm ridge size. Have I removed enough on the wrists? Do I need to take off some more? They do not align as easily as the biceps, so a lot of tape, magnets and persuasion will be used for the forearms. I have made the inner cover strips so I can glue the 2 halves and leave them for 24 hours to cure. If there are any issues that require me to remove the forearms, at least I can remove the inner strips and not risk damaging the armour face or even the outer cover strips. Please let me know if everything so far looks to be correct. Thanks

Wow, this is an incredible list! Very detailed with lots of great categories that will definitely help future builders! Fantastic work, what a great resource

One small victory today....a completed forearm. It is much more fitted to my arm than it originally was before I trimmed and glued it. I am very proud of it. It is a small accomplishment, but an accomplishment nonetheless. Today was otherwise mostly a research day, and tomorrow I have some plans. It's always good to have some plans even if I don't get all of them done. It's certainly better than going in with no plan at all. My only concern is that the outer cover strip does not lie perfectly flush with part of one of the forearm halves- the half that is rounded and lacks a flattened ridge: It really isn't noticeable unless I point it out, but I'm a perfectionist (that makes this project a mental strain sometimes). I couldn't get it to stay flat while gluing. Perhaps there is another way to remedy it. That's it for tonight, but lots more to come soon!

These are very cool.

Blaster looks great Christine

@justjoseph63 the answer to that would very obviously be, "yes, yes, yes", lol. This one first though!

Well done trooper welcome to the ranks !!!

Congratulations trooper

That blaster looks great, Christine! Printing one of the rifle version is on my to-do list, just for kicks, as I have no plans to build a FOTK. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations Eric... Welcome to Centurion!!!

Hi Eric, Thanks for your application, and well done on the fixes I pointed out in your EIB review. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of Joseph and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions As you already mentioned, ideally there is no overlap between the back and kidney. Depending on how long you expect your recovery to take, you could add some padding under your right shoulder to bring up the right side of your armor. I really feel you because I have moderate scoliosis that causes my right shoulder to be visibly lower than my left, and my right hip to be visibly higher than my right. It's not noticeable in regular clothes, but the armor really highlights the asymmetry. Reference Images: . Finally, just a small alignment issue. From the front, your thigh pieces look nice and even, but from the back they're misaligned. This may be a simple dressing issue, and it's certainly a nitpick, but you may want to examine the strapping holding your thighs up to see if you can even them out. On my kit, I added strapping to the back of my right thigh but not my left because I was having a similar issue. Reference Image: (Sorry for lack of good reference) And that's it! Congratulations again on reaching Centurion #466 on 6/6! Hopefully we'll all be back out trooping soon.

Thank you all for you responses. Sorry for delays, alot happening all over the world right now. Haven't been able to work on armour at all. Will be getting into this weekend! Stay safe!

The WTF kits are really, really small. I didn't have to trim anything but flashing on the ab/kidney on the WTF kit I owned, and it fit with little space. I'm just 5'4" and 110lbs, so not a big person at all. Contrast it with an RS kit- I can almost fit one of my kids inside while wearing it!

Thanks! I'm trying I know the WTF kit is notoriously skinny but don't be fooled- I've got a bit of a stomach myself, it's hard to tell from the photo

sure thing! It moves up and down alot. Be getting into it in two days, very close to finishing now, itching to try it all on once it's complete

Hey there! I cleaned up this graphic a little bit, as the edits were a little rough, and I added a "Revised 2019" text to it, so it's a bit more obvious to all which one is being looked at. Anyone is welcome to use it.