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kman

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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About kman

  • Rank
    Expert Infantry

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

FISD Info

  • Attache Achievement Award
    1
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Kalani
  • 501st ID
    91423
  • 501st Unit
    SoCal Garrison

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  1. LOL Yeah, weathering is still on my long term list. At the moment I switch between regular TK and HWT too often to do any substantial weathering that takes real effort to reverse... and I don't want anything too loose that'll make everything else filthy. (including my pretty bin LOL) Besides, you have to think at SOME point they were clean, right? LOL Brinkhouse did a run of T21s some time ago, which he made all himself I believe. There was a sales thread here at one point, but I think he stopped making them. Mine was one of his first models.
  2. You might want to check out my build, because that's exactly what I did with mine. The shim plates are glued in with E6000 so I can remove them if needed, and swap in (hopefully) smaller shims if I lose weight. You can't get to Centurion without using ABS paste to erase the seam, but it's fine for EIB. Details in my build thread, linked in my sig below. Note that I did it twice, for reasons, and you'll likely want to follow the second effort, but the first try has some good info as well (which wasn't copied into the second part), so I'd read both.
  3. Yeah, definitely no-go on the E11 for approval purposes. Seems like most of the local guys in my garrison have added them to their packs, though, so I might end up adding it to mine, too (completely removable, of course), just so we all match better! I'm not a big fan of the cheap Rubies E11s, but this is one application they're good for, especially since you're not actually going to be using it. They're super light weight, even moreso than Hyperfirm / Praetorian, so not has hard on your back. Because Joseph is absolutely right, no matter how light you make your pack, after a couple hours of wearing that pack, you will it was lighter! I'm still dialing in getting suited up in my HWT, since I've only trooped in that configuration a few times. So far I definitely need assistance for the final steps of Pauldron and backpack. (Pauldron usually has to go on last since the pack strap goes under it) My pack straps seem to lay pretty nicely between the shoulder bridges and the bells, though, and on top of the bells, if anything, so my bridges don't seem affected (phew!). I'm not worried about the shoulder bells, they shouldn't be harmed. Where your pack straps run is going to directly dictated by where the tops of the straps are attached to the pack.
  4. Dang, I missed those when I was there, too. Might have to grab one when I go next!
  5. Downside to living in California, as opposed to Florida, perhaps. Your version of events happens, too, of course, but people here can be (pardon the expression) trigger-happy (LOL) here about anything remotely resembling a gun. Not that we'd actually get in trouble, in the end, but who wants to risk Swat showing up because some moron can't think clearly and got scared? It's a bit different once your fully-kitted up. But a big guy with a bin and a big gun can be misinterpreted too easily. Safer (and frankly, just as easy) to strap the blaster and wear the pack.
  6. I like the big wheels of my Husky case, even though it's heavy. For troops where I can't fit my bin (very rare), I generally just opt for a simpler costume, rather than messing with repacking everything. It's easy to toss everything into the 50gal Husky bin, including extras, a substantial repair kit, helmet, etc... I could fit even more if I left out the padding, but there's really no need with a bin this size. I experimented with a lot of packing options, but have settled on this as the best comprise among ease of packing (with minimal disassembly), protection of the armor (I have 1/4" sheets of foam between each layer, and wanted to be extremely protective of the shoulder bridges so they're not under any strain), and fitting everything I need in there. Bottom layers: main clamshell halves, offset for betting protection of the shoulder bridges (also boots in the corners, not pictured) Next layers: Thighs, shins, arms, etc, all nested: Next layers: Pretty much everything else, including helmet: There's even room for a (plastic) mirror mounted in the lid! Super handy.
  7. I would do that, but I really don't want to get the cops called about a guy carrying a big gun around, so I went with the blaster laying down on the bin as being somewhat less obvious!
  8. I do the same. Wear it in, while wheeling my big Husky case with the rest of my stuff. T21 gets bungeed to the top of the Husky case. I don't think I would do this if I was going to have to leave everything in an unsecured area for a long period of time. Usually, though, I can lock the bin itself while I troop, wearing the armor. So my personal clothing and stuff stays behind, locked in the bin.
  9. What's the question on the kidney shims? I shimmed mine... it's pretty simple, as long as you have the large pieces of scrap left over from your rough armor cut. Otherwise, color matching is going to be an issue. Details on my method are in my build thread, linked in my sig. (and note that I did it twice, as I wasn't happy the first time, but you'd be well-served to read both).
  10. The original screen-used snaps were standard nickel/chrome. That's what you're going to want to use, unless you're talking about the Shadow trooper, perhaps. Standard white armor needs to be silver-toned. Take a look at EIB and Centurion submissions, and you definitely won't see any non-silver snaps.
  11. Congrats! That's a great picture! And here is where you request 501st and full FISD access: Detachment status updates are done in bulk a few times be year, so don't worry if it says Pending for a while in your profile on the 501st site. That only matters once Legion elections come up, in early 2020. (see also the first post in this thread:
  12. The angle cuts were accurate, but the way you have it now should be fine, too. For sanding the ABS paste, I'd start with, say, 200, and work your way up. Make sure you have enough built-up material to remove, since 200 will remove stuff pretty readily, but you want to get a feel for it. It's not unusual to need multiple passes of sanding and re-building. Can't help you on the paint. I haven't compared personally, but the photos I've seen, I have yet to see anything off-the-shelf truly match Anovos. Only the custom mix stuff.
  13. I think you're referring to Field Marshall's aluminum kits, which he sells on eBay (as "vmusicstore"). Only one I'm aware of, on eBay. Freaking AMAZING. I so wish I had the budget for one!
  14. Any idea where those pics came from?
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