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kman

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About kman

  • Rank
    Expert Infantry

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

FISD Info

  • Attache Achievement Award
    1
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Kalani
  • 501st ID
    91423
  • 501st Unit
    SoCal Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Great comparison, Caleb! (sorry it took me so long to get back to FISD and see this thread!) If I get a chance, I'll have to see if I can add some extra photos of my Praetorian, to match the extra ones you provided, along with a weight measurement. Sadly, I don't have my Hyperfirm anymore, but I might see if I can borrow it back (sold it to a local buddy) to add in the photos of that, too. Maddening that we apparently STILL don't have all the details I value most in one rubber blaster. My biggest complaint about the Hyperfirm was the rail (although it could be tweaked to be a bit better) and the lack of springs in the recoil tube. Praetorian added the recoil spring (yay!) and upped the overall quality (yay!), but made the rail worse. Along comes HHP with a nearly perfect rail (FINALLY!), but takes a step back in the recoil spring, and a minor step back in overall quality (perhaps?). *sigh*
  2. A little superglue and some ABS paste, and you can barely tell the button was damaged.
  3. Looks like a much easier repair than mine was! LOL Pro tip: Don't use pop rivets, anywhere you can avoid it. Use Chicago screws, instead, so you can unscrew them if you need to. (use a drop of threadlock or E6000 to make sure they don't accidentally come unscrewed over time) There's two varieties of Chicago screw, one is closed and looks kinda like a smooth-domed snap top (but smaller) on top, and the other is open and looks almost identical to a pop rivet. (except you can unscrew it!) You can see both types here (just before I put the button covers on... you can also see the drop box alignment to aim for):
  4. Drop boxes should sit snug against the ammo belt, aligned with the bottom corner. No visible gap between the two parts. For the holster, Stunt requires ONLY the bottom two be connected (as you have pictured now). Hero requires all 4 to be in place. This means two different belts, unfortunately...
  5. Bravo! (Pls add to Attache links collection, and make this sticky!)
  6. If only your armor's color matched Anovos, it would be a no-brainer to swap parts for yours. But since he has Anovos, there's only the stock size to work with, so shims are needed.
  7. Yikes, life's little curveballs are never fun. Best wishes to your efforts to climb back on top! And thank you for continuing your staff work here at FISD. Glad you can keep a toe in the pool, at least! It would be tragic to lose your invaluable input entirely.
  8. That's a pretty bad a$$ weapon, right there. I wouldn't necessarily be against it, although technically it makes our CRL even less accurate than it already is, so it might be hard to convince the brass. I can see arguments in both directions, but unless they put it up for a vote, it's not my call LOL.
  9. Yup, I'm pretty sure I used 1/4" as well. Pretty much any size that's in that range should work, and which one works for you depends on your belt, your ammo belt, and what sort of repairs (if any) are needed, because that all stacks up and determines how thick things are. It's easy to pad things out a little with some spare ABS if it's a smidge longer than needed, than if it's too short to grip adequately. In fact, it may be a good idea to make an ABS washer on the back side, to give more surface area to grip the belt, but it's not strictly necessary. Again, a lot depends on the thickness of the belt. (Anovos OEM belt vs. Imperial Issue, vastly different thicknesses, for instance) Oh, and my belt boxes came pre-assembled from Anovos, already glued together, so I didn't use anything on mine. Others I've assisted have opted for simple rivets, or even just gluing the elastic in place, or both. Chicago screws would technically work here, too, but again, you'll probably want to shim out the inside with scrap ABS "washers" to give extra thickness and strength. And the c-screws would need to be short enough that the shallow boxes still close fully.
  10. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it beyond this point. That looks "smooth enough" to my eye. The bigger issue might be the color shift, since you weren't able to match the Anovos white-ish coloring. (no one really can) Perhaps our judges can opine as to what should be done at this point, assuming you're trying to get to Centurion? You're more than ready for general approval, IMO, and possibly even EIB. (assuming the rest of the build is complete, of course)
  11. I like snaps to connect them, for the very reason you mention. If you have non-detachable attachments on both sides, you'll never be able to separate the parts. I positioned the snaps on regular snap plates between the rivets. The rivets can be just for show... they don't have to be functional in any way. You can even use Velcro there, if you wanted. (I doubt you want to, considering the effort you're putting in, but just to illustrate the point) I used 2" webbing going straight up the seam, with multiple snaps on each side. This forces the halves to stay aligned, and doesn't allow much, if any, vertical play, so it can't get uneven. I used the same concept on both sides (left and right). A single strap (or even 3) going from one side to the other was inadequate to keep things aligned nicely, on my burger-loving body.
  12. Hey there! I cleaned up this graphic a little bit, as the edits were a little rough, and I added a "Revised 2019" text to it, so it's a bit more obvious to all which one is being looked at. Anyone is welcome to use it.
  13. Nail polish remover is usually Acetone combined with a number of other ingredients, skin conditioners, etc., such that the Acetone is not full strength. I'd recommend using full strength Acetone. A can of full strength construction-grade Acetone is only a few dollars at Home Depot or Lowe's.
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