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Shinyarmour1

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About Shinyarmour1

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  1. Hello everyone I have not had much chance to work on my kit, but I did manage to make some progress. I cut out and sanded the cover stips for my biceps and forearms. In my last post I was asking about the corner measurments for the cover stripes. I decided to measure and cut 3mm each side, line up and trim. Thanks for the reference pictures Daniel.   Thanks for that usefull tip Mario, I did not have a block of wood to hand, so instead I used this metal rectangle to even out the clamping force. This worked a treat, highly recommend this method to other builders when doing their cover strips.   Here is the finished result for the biceps.   I even made some Han hooks by using Ukswrath's measurments. I will attach these with some velco, that way I have the option of attaching or removing them whenever I wish. If anyone else reading this build thread is going to do the same trick, here is a tip I have for you. Make sure you stick the soft part of the velco onto the bicep and the course part onto the Han hooks. Just in case you might decide to have the hooks on some troops but not on others, the soft velco side on the bicep will not scratch you or damage your undersuit. I didn't have so much luck with the forearms. After gluing the edges to together, I waited 48 hours to dry then gave them a hot water bath. Unfortunately I did not leave them long enough, because the E6000 deteriorated from the forearms. However, not only have I reglued the forearms back together, but I've also glued the cover stripes on as well. Now, this time I will leave them for at least a week before giving them another hot water bath. While I wait, I think I'll commence on the torso.
  2. I'm planning to cut my 15mm coverstrip corners diagonally. What are the measurments for cutting the corners? I'm guessing that I mark 3mm length along the corners, then use a ruler to line up and trim the line. Would 3mm be the correct size?
  3. Now that I know the biceps and forearms are good, I'll cut and sand the coverstrips for them. But first, I must give the forearms a hot water bath. As mentioned before, I will practice with some scrap pieces first to get a feel for the method.
  4. Thanks for the positive feedback everyone. I'm glad to hear that you all like the build so far and that it is meeting the accuracy requirements of the 501st.
  5. Hey everyone Thanks for the tips and advice, I will be using those ideas for sure. Made some progress on the forearms. I glued the two halfs of the forearm together, left it to cure for 24 hours and it worked great. I highly recommend to any furture armour builders reading this thread, that you install inner coverstrips as well as the outer coverstrips. The forearm pieces are really tight when you try and line them up together, so not only will it help to give them a hot water bath to easy the tension, but the inner strips provide that extra strength for piece of mind. I went ahead and glued the two halfs of the other forearm together and left that to cure. In the movies, they had the return edges on the elbows removed, however I wanted to keep a little bit of return to add the appearance of thinckness to the armour. I was so excited to see the arm comming together, I decided to do a test fit. I tapped the other half of the forearm pieces (quite a lot of tension, so a hot water bath will be required). It fits my arm quite nicely, with no tightness or pinching issues. I even tried slipping my hand thought the wrists several times, with no problems getting through. Tapping the biceps and shoulder bells to where I thought they would sit right on me. I even stuck the rubber hand guards on with double sided tape just to see what the arm would look like when completed. How does it look so far? I used a long strip of tape to connect the right shoulder bell to the left. But the moment that the second picture was taken, the tape came off, so that's why the shoulder bell looks so far out of my shoulder in the last image. Does everything look correct for size and positioning? I'm a little concerned that the forearms and biceps are not in proportion. When my arm is straight, it almost looks like the bicep is wider by a couple of millimetres. Am I worrying about nothing, or do the forearm and bicep widths need adjusting? Any help and feedback would be greatly appreciated. If they both get the tick of approval, I can then glue the outer strips on. Thanks guys
  6. Thanks for the response guys, I'm defiantly going to need as much help and info as possible. That's a great idea using wood to apply even pressure across the forearms. I had the same thought about leaving the forearms 48 hours instead of 24 when I glue the other half together, because of the tension. If I glue the forearms together, let them dry and then place them in boiling water, would that effect the glue performance/durability? And do I put the whole forearm in water or just where the edge to edge join?
  7. All 4 section of the forearm are trimmed and sanded to the 15mm ridge size. Have I removed enough on the wrists? Do I need to take off some more? They do not align as easily as the biceps, so a lot of tape, magnets and persuasion will be used for the forearms. I have made the inner cover strips so I can glue the 2 halves and leave them for 24 hours to cure. If there are any issues that require me to remove the forearms, at least I can remove the inner strips and not risk damaging the armour face or even the outer cover strips. Please let me know if everything so far looks to be correct. Thanks
  8. Moving onto the forearm now. From what I have read in other build threads, the forearm can be difficult and awkward. So I hope I get it done right. Same as the biceps, using the score and snap method, I measured 7.5mm on both sides and left an extra 2mm just in case I went off the marked lines.
  9. Although the biceps fit better than before, they are still a little big on me, so I'll just do what other troopers have recommended and add some padding. I've cut a 15mm outer coverstip so I can see how the ridges look before continuing. Does it look like it would sit correctly on the bicep ridges evenly? I don't want to have the ridges showing underneath the coverstrip, nor do I want to accidently trim off too much. Please let me know what you guys think. Here is the right bicep Here is the left bicep Test fit
  10. Made a start on the biceps, I measured 15mm on both halfs and even added an extra 2mm so that I woudn't cut too close to the trim line and just in case I needed more fitting room. After looking at other build threads, I found in Mayo's build, he trimmed the highest side of the biceps off so both sides were level and even. By making a comparison between those that left the higher piece and Mayo's trimmed one, I decided to do the same and trim the top part off. I like how both side match, they give an even look to the biceps. Here is the result. Very pleased with my progress so far, it's great to see things start to come together. I did a test fit and found them quite big on me (I'm such a skinny fellow). Taking the advice from more experienced builders (measure twice and cut once), I measured so many time before cutting/sanding the armour to make sure everything would line up correctly. So I double checked the measurments, sanded down the ridges 1mm, checked again and sanded some more to 15mm (screen accurate measurments). That seems to be the size that best fits me best so I'm going to make my bicep and forearm coverstips 15mm. Made the inner cover strips from scrap bicep pieces and started on the gluing.
  11. I've researched build threads and seen many reference pictures about the return edges on different armour parts. As long as the forearm wrist and bottom of shins have no return edges, everywhere else is optional. I like the thick armour look, so I am going to keep a little return edge on some of my pieces. However the illusion of thick armour can also be prone to stress cracks/splits, so I will also keep that in mind.
  12. Thanks Guys After looking at the different pieces, I decided to start with the plastic hard guards instead. Because I'm going Centurion, I'll be using the silicon hand guards, so it won't matter if I make a mistake on the plastic ones. This was a good opportunity for me to get to know the ABS strength for cutting and sanding with various grits. I'm using the score and snap method, followed by sanding with 120g, 240g and smoothing out with 400g. After getting used to the plastic strength, cutting and sanding method, I then moved onto the Shoulder bells.
  13. Hello everyone The time has finally come for me. I have recieved my AP Stormtrooper kit and am all ready and excited (a little nervous too) to begin my build for what I am hoping to achieve is ANH Stunt TK Centurion. I chose to have my kit untrimmed because I can use the extra ABS plastic to make inner coverstrips, ABS paste and plenty of tests and experiments on scrap pieces before apply to the armour itself.   I have done months of research, looked into tips and tricks and have carefully read other AP build threads. Since this is my first build (and I'm a perfectionist), I'm going to take things slow and start with some simple parts. I'll start with the Shoulder bells first, beacuse there's no gluing involved and not much to cut/sand either. As I am aiming for Centurion, I want to be as accurate from the start as possible. Any comments and feedback would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks guys...lets get building.
  14. Thanks for the reply guys, this really helped. My kit is AP stunt and although I was given decals, I'm planning on hand painting the tube stripes. The stencils I'm using are from PandaTroopers Idealised version, not the screen used version. I just need to print them out, trim them and paint over the stencils before applying to the face. This is why I asked about the individual stripe measurements and spacing between them. His stripes appear to be thinner and more spaced out than the AP decals, will they still be centurion accurate?
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