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About Shinyarmour1

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  1. Excellent advice guys, thanks. I will be making a start on my build soon (with sandpaper and E6000).
  2. Hi everyone I am about to start my build soon and just wanted to ask this before I make a start. After I trim all the parts and get ready to attach the coverstrips, what would be the best thing to do for gluing? Is it best to sand the back of the coverstrip surface and the front part of the armour surface that it would be glued on? Or should I just glue the coverstrips onto the armour without sanding the surface at all? If I need to sand the surfaces, what grit/method should I use? I have heard about some troopers sanding the surface so the parts stick better, but others have strongly advised not to sand the surface at all. Any advice would be great before I make a start, thanks.
  3. That's a great idea Cricket, especially for easy removal. I'm going to look further into that. Thanks everyone
  4. Thanks for the info guys. These are all helpful tips and suggestions. Will be sure to do the double over method with High Density elastic. Although I don't own a soldering gun, so could I just cut a hole for the snaps and then carefully use a lighter to stop the hole from fraying?
  5. I need some help deciding on what type of elastic to purchase for my inner strapping. I am going to go with the double snap method over the bracket system for my armour. I went to my local craft store to buy some elastic to get started, but there were several different types to chose from. I ended up walking away without buying elastic because I was afraid of purchasing the wrong type of elastic. This is the description of the options to chose from:- High Density Elastic - Stiff, strong and durable. Resists rolling or twisting. Shrink resistant and machine washable. For waistbands in skirts, shorts and pants. Belting Elastic - Strong and durable. Resists rolling or twisting. Can be sewn directly onto a garment to create a waistband. Braided Elastic - Rows of rubber with polyester cover. Narrows when stretched. Lightweight and thin. Use to thread through casing in garments. Knitted Elastic - Soft and comfortable. Resists curling. Retains original width when stretched. Shrink resistant. Used in waistlines for sleepwear and sportswear. I'm not sure whether to go with strong elastic for durability, or stretchy elastic for moveability? I'm leaning towards the strong durable elastic. That should last a long time and prevent the armour weight from stretching out of place. Any thoughts on this?
  6. Just wanted to know if there are any other kinds of polishing products out there for a wet sand and polish job? I know everyone's first response is Novus plastic polish kit, but I would like to know if there is another kind of polish that can do the same as Novus and is still safe to use on our armour. Maybe something that I could pick up in an automotive store?
  7. I only ask because I live in Australia and these snaps are in my local fabric store. These would be an alternative to purchasing Tandy snaps from their website or on Amazon and paying USA currency conversion, pricey shipping fees etc. These snaps I found are easy to get when I need them, but only if you guys think that they might be acceptable.
  8. Hey everyone I was wondering about the snaps for my inner strapping. I know that the go to choice is Tandy 24 line snaps, but I was thinking that these might be a good alternative. https://www.lincraft.com.au/heavy-duty-press-stud-size-15mm-silver-20pk Any help would be great., thanks.
  9. I'm in Australia. And like gmrhodes13 said ''They can only be purchased in small tubes here''. So I'll either buy E6000 in small tubes at a local craft store, or online like Amazon.
  10. Thanks for the feedback guys. I am outside of the US, so E6000 is a little difficult to find. However I did hear about the differences between real and fake E6000. So I know what to look for when I eventually find the glue (including online). Thanks again for clearing things up for me. I'll stay with E6000.
  11. Hey everyone I have question regarding another option for glue. This is my first build so natural I was on the lookout for E6000, permanent glue that can still be taken apart from mistakes. I was looking in a local hardware store for E6000 but could not find any currently in stock, however I did find something else called Weldbond. Its permanent bond, water resistant, clear and as a bonus, its non-toxic and odourless. Would Weldbond be a suitable substitute to glue ABS plastic together? Some glues are permanent and can’t be taken apart, but E6000 is permanent and can be taken apart. So if anyone knows about this glue or has hands on experience using this glue, please let me know if this would be suitable for my kit.
  12. Helmet paints Humbrol Gloss Black enamel #21 Humbrol Gloss Dark Admiral Grey enamel #5 Humbrol Gloss French Blue enamel #14 (for the tube stripes I've yet to paint) You can find detailed guide with picture for the specific paints on the 'Assembly, mod and painting' - Tutorials, tips and HOWTOs section for the ANH paint reference guide. Hope this helps.
  13. Thanks. Yes that would be a good idea. I'll start a build thread.
  14. Thanks for the helpful feedback. I'll get to work on those improvements.
  15. I am currently painting my AP helmet and just wanted to ask a few questions before I go any further (aiming for Centurion). 1. Is the trap under the eye a correct size, or does it need to be bigger? 2. Although the stormtrooper guidelines say that the tube stripes range between 9-16, is there a particular number that most troopers go with just to be safe for approval? And apart from the pencil width measurement, what are the measurements for between the bump and first stripe, the ear and the last stripe and the gaps between each strip? 3. Also while I was painting, I noticed that there were some bumps on some the painted parts. I've been carefully testing on scrap pieces of ABS using new Humbrol paint, new brushes and still keep finding little bumps in the paint. Using a thick or thin brush, lots to little amounts of paint, but all to the same result. Although its not too noticeable I don't want to use it on anything large like the chin area unless I can find a way to make it completely smooth. Can anyone offer any painting tips on how to prevent tiny dots on hand painting?
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