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About Shinyarmour1

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  1. I managed to find these 5v fans and battery holders that I can put together and would be better suited for the job instead of the Amazon ones. What do you guys think about this? https://aus3d.com.au/5v-50mm-blower-fan https://core-electronics.com.au/4-x-aa-battery-holder-with-on-off-switch.html or https://core-electronics.com.au/battery-holder-4xaa-with-cover-and-switch.html Also, would I be able to connect 2 fans to 1 battery holder, or would the best result be 1 fan connected to 1 battery holder?
  2. Hi all It's been a really challenge trying to find 5v fans here in Australia. Everything is located overseas in the US mostly, but I'm trying to find some fans and power banks here in Australia. I know that Trooperbay and UKswrath are popular choices, but I would like to get something that's here down under and not cost a fortune with things like exchange rate, shipping, VAT, etc. I came across these on Amazon and was wondering if they would do the job? Fans:- https://www.amazon.com.au/Bearing-Brushless-Cooling-Blower-AV-F7530MB/dp/B072HJ38PS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 https://www.amazon.com.au/ANVISION-Bearing-Brushless-Cooling-YDM4010B05/dp/B074YJH3P9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=dc+brushless+cooling+fans&qid=1584246702&sr=8-5 I've seen videos on how to convert fan leads into a usb fan, so purchasing both fans with leads and a usb pack will not be an issue. And for the pc fans, I have an idea on how to angle them using spare ABS to direct them towards the lenses and not at my face. This power pack looks like it would work for either 5v or 12v fans:- https://www.amazon.com.au/imuto-Portable-10000mAh-External-Nintendo/dp/B07KMRCM6Y/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YXWJQB3MXSQNABWXRV82 Other options:- https://www.jaycar.com.au/5vdc-30mm-thin-2-wire-fan/p/YX2500 https://www.jaycar.com.au/5-200mah-usb-portable-power-bank/p/MB3800 https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/search?q=dc+brushless+cooling+fans I've looked over the specs between some 5v fans that most troopers use and 12v fans I have found here. The specs like Air flow and dB(A) look pretty similar. Please let me know if I have over looked anything (I'm not a tech guy by any means). Thanks
  3. Some people go with foam padding and others choose hard hat liners. I personally am going with hard hat liners because of the following reasons (just my opinion):- 1. The hard hat allows more airflow, which is crucial when we all get hot in our buckets (especially for those that live in a hot country). Having padding will make your head hotter. 2. I tested a hard hat from my local hardware store and its comfortable and adjustable. 3. I looked at padding online and it can sometimes be misleading with mixed reviews. Some people say their soft and comfortable, others might say they are hard and too firm. I bought a tradesman's hard hat for $10, will remove the liner and install it into my helmet. Its going to be tricky trying to install the line so everything is aligned correctly, but that's a small price to pay for airflow on may hot days trooping. Having a chin strap also keeps the helmet in place so when you turn your head, the helmet won't just stay straight. This is also recommended. For the elastic to shoulder bells, you could either:- 1. Cut some nylon webbing, use a soldering iron to stop the edges from fraying, install a heavy duty snap and glue the nylon to the shoulder bell. Be sure not to get any E6000 glue onto the snap as the glue reacts to metal creating heat and could damage the plastic. 2. Use scrap ABS plastic to create plastic plates, cut a hole for the snaps and glue into shoulder bell. This approach is harder because the ABS is not flexible like nylon. 3. This is probably overkill but I will mention it anyway. You could create a plastic plate, glue it into the bells, the go to the 1st option and glue the nylon webbing onto the plate. This would stop any possible damage to your armour affected by the glue and metal melting. I hope this helps you in some way. Keep asking lots of questions and look into the HOW TO section for creating and installing snaps. Keep refereeing the UKSWRATH tutorials, especially for strapping, they help a lot.
  4. Hi Thomas I too am in Australia and have seen those exact boots that you painted, not sure if they are leather or man made material. Did you use acetone to remove the top coat so the paint would stay on, or some other product? What paint did you use for your boots? Armour is looking amazing, keep up the awesome work.
  5. Hi all I am planning on going for centurion with my kit and am doing all the research into making that possible. Most of these products are in the US, but I am in Australia. Fortunately I have been doing the research and have found similar items that I can buy here, instead of purchasing through the US and having to pay exchange rate and extortionate shipping fees. But the S trim is extremely hard to find anywhere except for Trooperbay.com. I did have one inexpensive idea that might work, I just wanted to ask first. https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/collections/door-window-weather-seals/products/31661-u-section-5mm-x-5mm If I purchased a rubber seal similar to this one, measure and cut to length (this would give me 2 seals trims), remove the flat side on one trim, glue the other trim (the flat side still attached) onto the side that was just removed and glue into place. I hope I have explained myself clear enough. If this works, it would save me a lot in the exchange rate and shipping cost which is too expensive for just a rubber trim. Any thoughts as to whether this would be acceptable or not would be great. I am will to experiment with the idea if this acceptable.
  6. Hi all I've been looking for a blaster for my ANH stunt kit and found this. I know that Doopy doos is the first choice for most troopers. But because I live in Australia, I thought this might be a good alternative (if it is 501st accurate) so I would not be paying a fortune in exchange rates and shipping fees. Here are the links:- https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/763708020/star-wars-cosplay-kit-e-11-blaster?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=e11+blaster&ref=sr_gallery-1-3&organic_search_click=1&frs=1 https://legacycosplayshop.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fstar-wars-cosplay-kit-e-11-blaster-lifesize&page=3 I don't know why their esty site charges more than their website?
  7. Excellent advice guys, thanks. I will be making a start on my build soon (with sandpaper and E6000).
  8. Hi everyone I am about to start my build soon and just wanted to ask this before I make a start. After I trim all the parts and get ready to attach the coverstrips, what would be the best thing to do for gluing? Is it best to sand the back of the coverstrip surface and the front part of the armour surface that it would be glued on? Or should I just glue the coverstrips onto the armour without sanding the surface at all? If I need to sand the surfaces, what grit/method should I use? I have heard about some troopers sanding the surface so the parts stick better, but others have strongly advised not to sand the surface at all. Any advice would be great before I make a start, thanks.
  9. That's a great idea Cricket, especially for easy removal. I'm going to look further into that. Thanks everyone
  10. Thanks for the info guys. These are all helpful tips and suggestions. Will be sure to do the double over method with High Density elastic. Although I don't own a soldering gun, so could I just cut a hole for the snaps and then carefully use a lighter to stop the hole from fraying?
  11. I need some help deciding on what type of elastic to purchase for my inner strapping. I am going to go with the double snap method over the bracket system for my armour. I went to my local craft store to buy some elastic to get started, but there were several different types to chose from. I ended up walking away without buying elastic because I was afraid of purchasing the wrong type of elastic. This is the description of the options to chose from:- High Density Elastic - Stiff, strong and durable. Resists rolling or twisting. Shrink resistant and machine washable. For waistbands in skirts, shorts and pants. Belting Elastic - Strong and durable. Resists rolling or twisting. Can be sewn directly onto a garment to create a waistband. Braided Elastic - Rows of rubber with polyester cover. Narrows when stretched. Lightweight and thin. Use to thread through casing in garments. Knitted Elastic - Soft and comfortable. Resists curling. Retains original width when stretched. Shrink resistant. Used in waistlines for sleepwear and sportswear. I'm not sure whether to go with strong elastic for durability, or stretchy elastic for moveability? I'm leaning towards the strong durable elastic. That should last a long time and prevent the armour weight from stretching out of place. Any thoughts on this?
  12. Just wanted to know if there are any other kinds of polishing products out there for a wet sand and polish job? I know everyone's first response is Novus plastic polish kit, but I would like to know if there is another kind of polish that can do the same as Novus and is still safe to use on our armour. Maybe something that I could pick up in an automotive store?
  13. I only ask because I live in Australia and these snaps are in my local fabric store. These would be an alternative to purchasing Tandy snaps from their website or on Amazon and paying USA currency conversion, pricey shipping fees etc. These snaps I found are easy to get when I need them, but only if you guys think that they might be acceptable.
  14. Hey everyone I was wondering about the snaps for my inner strapping. I know that the go to choice is Tandy 24 line snaps, but I was thinking that these might be a good alternative. https://www.lincraft.com.au/heavy-duty-press-stud-size-15mm-silver-20pk Any help would be great., thanks.
  15. I'm in Australia. And like gmrhodes13 said ''They can only be purchased in small tubes here''. So I'll either buy E6000 in small tubes at a local craft store, or online like Amazon.
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