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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About Shinyarmour1

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  • 501st Unit
    Knightfall Garrison

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  1. Requesting 501st access please https://www.501st.com//members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=33474
  2. Look what just arrived in the mail today...my 3D printed Blaster finally arrived. I'm going to sand the parts to remove the print lines, and so that the paint adheres better. For the difficult to reach areas, I'll coat those with a filler and then sand smooth.
  3. And here is the complete setup. Straight away after taking these pictures, I could see a few adjustments that need to be fixed. 1. The left forearm is slightly higher up compared to the right forearm, it has to be lowered. 2. The left thigh had twisted too far, I only need to twist it back into the correct position. Apart from that, do you see any other tweaks and fixes that might be required?
  4. Thanks for the kind remarks everyone, I'm glad to see my hard work is paying off. I've done the inner strapping for the torso
  5. Hovi mic tips I had trouble getting the ears to fit on the overlapping helmet parts. Because the ears are trimmed flat and the helmet is curved. I found in a build thread about sanding the ears with a notch cut into it for a better flush fit. I was very nervous about doing this because the helmet is the most important part of the build and I so afraid of screwing it up. But, I took my time gradually trimming a curve shape on the tops of the ears and a notch for the overlap, and found this to work out well. They fit in much better now and the ear screw
  6. Tube stripe stencils that I printed off, carefully cut out and tape many times over and over again to get the position just right and even on both sides. After 2 coats and some tooth picking later, the tube strips are done. It took me about 1/2 hour on each side to carefully remove the paint bleed, and I am very pleased with the results. Now the last detail to paint is the vocorder. It was a little tricky to see where the vocorder lines would be on the edge, so after looking at several reference images, I used a pencil to draw the lines in. That helped
  7. The ear holes don't quite align in the drilled holes on the helmet, and the screws will not align with the trap. So I'm going to drill a new hole on the top to make it more screen accurate. Same for the other side I purchased a hard hat for the inside of the bucket and removed the unwanted parts. The inside will be velcro for a non permanent build. I don't want any glue inside my bucket (especially E6000), and it will back it easier to replace or upgrade any interior parts.
  8. On to the most crucial part of the build...the helmet. It's been fun and exhausting all at the same time, but that's what makes it all worth it when it's completed. I am so glad I had the helmet trimmed, because I would be so nervous about cutting and drilling the faceplate myself. I did not want to use the decals supplied, so I went down the 'paint everything' road. I started small an worked on painting the ears. Then I painted the frown. And the traps.
  9. Thanks, I try to be detailed in my build not just for me, but to help any future troopers with AP kits. Although it is not as descriptive and photo heavy as other build threads, I still want it to be helpful for those soon to be troopers. I've fixed the thigh ammo pack as you have recommended, I trimmed 2mm off the top and bottom so it looks more screen accurate. I got to work on drilling the holes for the split rivets; the ammo belt I measured 10mm from the top and from the edge. The thigh measured 7mm from the top and 15mm from the back edge. I use
  10. Here are the thighs. The left was simple, the right took a little longer with the curve coverstrip. I did what others recommended and glue half of the bottom strip, leave for 48 hours, then slightly curve the top of the strip, glue and wait another 48 hours. Worked like a charm. Then I just had to glue the back coverstrip with the tab to keep the bottom ridges level and even. As far as it goes for the back coverstrips, how would I trim the tops of them? If I follow the direction of the two halves, that will create a point on top of the coverstrip that will stick int
  11. Does my butt plate need to be tucked in a bit more? This is what it will look like, but I'm not sure if the snaps are okay to be seen. I could give it a bath to hide it better changing it to this. It doesn't look like it needs adjusting, but I wanted to ask before moving on.
  12. See the thing is that the kidney plate is crooked. So when the Ab plate is straight, the kidney is on a slight angle leaning to the left, which means the canvas belt at the back will give the illusion of being on an angle and raised on the left side. And the buttons on the front, the large panel blue button would be slightly overlapped (screen accurate), but the small panel blue button would be concealed completely. Also, the Ab plate position is not too much on an angle and it feels comfortable and even for my thighs to sit in. When I have the chest plate strapped in and level, surly it
  13. Getting back to the belt/snap conundrum. I've taped up the torso to better display the belt placement. Here you can see it is level and even, but as I have mentioned before, the snap are not even. The snaps are lined with the rivets almost level in other builds. The snap on the left (my left hand side) lines up with the Chicago screw no problem, but the right hand snap is much lower. I'm thinking of drilling a new hole slightly higher in the Ab plate to even the belt and that would make the snaps level with the screws as well. Any thoughts about this idea?
  14. Now to finish my shins. The left shin is already assembled, I've just finished the right with the coverstrips. The shins line up much better at the back after several hot water bathes. This makes the velcro connection better in appearance and performance. I've also placed the velco on the inside for the boot attachment.
  15. I decided to go back and finish my shoulder bridges and chest/back plate connection. I glued the strips into all the slots and then glued a thick extra layer of ABS (about half the width of the bridges) to strengthen and allow some flexibility. Al least now I can rest knowing that little extras going to help.
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