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About Jeklynhyde

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  1. When it was first glued in place, it kept contact, but after bending it to assess the lower join, it split away along a fair portion of one edge. One of my friends suggested using Loctite, but I'm not sure how well that would work. Squishing the sides together for the lower join causes this strip to split significantly from the one side. A little bit better view to show the separation. Will need to determine a heat-bend solution. Cut the left forearm cover strip to size. Dry fit testing clamp positioning. And with glue and more magnets. Waiting to cure. Sooooo. In other news, I've been invited to go to a sports-ball game on Star Wars Day. Since sitting for an unknown number of hours in a plastic suit of armour seems non-conducive to either my butt or the plastic, I've decided to shift my attentions to the bucket completion so that I can wear it for the game. So I'm digging into the research on how I wanna do the trimming around the eyes and the frown teeth. I've already purchased some Plasti-Dip so that I can black out the inside of the bucket while it's still in two pieces, as I've heard that it's a lot easier to do that way. I've also been digging into the EIB/centurion request threads and making note of the corrections suggested to others. I'm definitely going to make sure my ears are slanted to match the angle of the brow detail bit at the top and make sure my tube stripes are a pencil width away from the cheek edges. Beyond that I've recently been updating a youtube playlist of all the music I'm jamming out to while I work on things. Right now that's a lot of dance and French music (Stormae in particular - super recommend!), haha. Here it is if you're interested: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyG3QoHhi8SfZGwLfNf1Sblj5bx72TY7D And tonight, my drink of choice is Fireball! The rough edge of the mask... Used this as a practice surface for more precise Dremel work before moving on to cleaning up the teeth and eyes. Rough edges of the eyes from the inside. Rough edges of the frown teeth from the inside. Best results from the Dremel are achieved by using the tool like a pencil. I found it easier to get the angles I wanted and see the effect I was creating by Dremeling from the outside in with the eyes. Got me some Plasti Dip. And taped off around the eyes and frown teeth. I didn't think about getting around the other edges till later. Close-up on the tap squished into the frown teeth. And the outside glamour shot. Another view inside of the tape-off. Doing this in a basement with no proper ventilation... Gotta still use the proper PPE. Started spraying without tape to cover the edges and some got on the outside. So I got smart and put tape around the edges for both cap and face. A bit excessive. Turning it around I ended up dripping some excess on the tarp throw and the floor. And now it waits. I did get a little on the outside, but it was pretty easy to scrub off using the painters tarp.
  2. You're making excellent progress Cricket! Awesome job on the grappling box! Keep it up! I'm excited to see more updates
  3. Gluing cover strips on the biceps, one side at a time. I wanted a tight bond, so I got full coverage by using bar clamps and C-clamps AND magnets, haha. THE CLAAAAMPS. Blue tape on the inside keeps any glue from squishing out onto the clamps and is easily removable after cure time. Last one set to cure. Next step is the forearms. The thing that was holding me back from completing the forearms was the overall length. I was debating between trimming the wrist end more, or cutting the elbows out deeper. I think I can manange with a deeper elbow cut. That decision was holding me back from setting a final cover strip length. But I've made the decision, so now I can progress. Taping the inside of the forearm to keep it in place for gluing. Trying to keep the line at the wrist edge even. I taped a couple popsicle sticks together and then to the ends of my bar clamps. I put one of them on the wrong side, but it ended up working anyway XD. "Dry fit" testing out all the clamping gets good coverage before any glue gets involved. Inside view. This will be a little more difficult to get the magnets set correctly once I go to glue this other side. And glue in place and set to cure.
  4. Paints arrived! Put all the screws in, taping the brackets to the armour to keep them correctly associated, then painted the ends. This kept the screws from touching other surfaces while drying. Got coverage all around the heads of the screws to account for any face that would still be visible. Set them to the side for close to 24 hours before I installed the first set of brackets on one edge. The paint was still kind of malleable, so I let it sit for a while longer before I installed the rest. Even then the paint still got mussed up a bit. All the back brackets mounted. I squeezed in a little E6K into each of the holes before I screwed everything in place. Cut up the elastic for the connections. Temporarily have them kept in place with staples just in case I need to take it apart again for any reason. I may repaint some of the screw heads to cover up what I managed to knick off. At least now I can do better torso fitting. Painted the abdomen button panels!
  5. That looks fantastic! I'm looking forward to that build! It's going to be tons of fun.
  6. I _am_ the accuracy bug xD haha. Thanks for the info! I'll check it out. Just got the screw heads painted for the back brackets. Once they're dried i should be able to get the elastics in place - if the elastics slack out over time,or don't hold things tight enough, i can replace them for nylon then. Also sorry for spam reacts. Finally figured out how to like other people's posts - double-click, geez, haha.
  7. I bent the rest of the brackets into proper form to lie flat. Cut a piece down to size for both return edge width as well as curvature Squeeze out some Gorilla Glue superglue gel Use another piece of scrap plastic as a spreader and get full coverage. Hold it into place and try not to get fingers glued to the armour... Repeat till cry, then drill more holes and mount more brackets. Scuffs on the inside because I drilled from the inside and it was a tight squeeze. Going for the original rivets for the drop boxes, I saw that they were single cap rivets... Looks like that's what it should have been for the whole belt too, but too late there. I was able to use some pliers to remove the "double" cap from the rivets that were included with the RS kit. Punched some holes in the elastics for the drop boxes. On the outside, now a single cap rivet And on the inside, the cap end. Testing out the positioning of the straps and the boxes before things get glued in place. Once I was happy with their positioning, I drew on, then cut out circles for where the abdomen snaps go. In order for the best positioning for the boxes to line up to the outer edges, I ended up cutting out small semi-circles on the other side of the strap as well to account for the outer rivets, and allow more range closer to the end of the belt. I cauterized the open edges of the elastic. Then I sewed around the edges for extra durability. I wiggled the straps into place, put E6000 underneath, just on the interior facing strap edge, and taped them down in case they felt like going places. One note: There is some wiggle room with the inner drop box within the outer box. I drew myself a little picture to figure out which way to squeeze the inner box in comarison to the belt in order to cinch up any possible slack. And that is - if you glue the inner box as far down as possible, it reduces the gap (ever so slightly) between the top of the outer box and the bottom of the belt. I hammered down the rivets to the inner drop boxes, then glued the straps in place, _then_ I glued the inner and outer boxes together. This allowed for the best amount of flexibility in positioning. Strap glued, Drop box gluing. Lined up very nicely with both edges. And the final product. Stage right / Stage left In other news: E-11 came in today! And all of the parts.... This gets to wait for a little while. Maybe until it's a little warmer outside I can paint it in the garage. Tomorrow the paints should come in. I went and bought a sealing iron and some plastic polish as well, so nothing else should stand in my way (except for myself) in my path to completion
  8. I got stuck on the shaping of the kidney section. I can't quite progress with the mounting until I sort out the final shaping (as I would rather install the reinforcing pieces in their final position rather than having to attempt to melty-bend two thicknesses of ABS) but then I realized that the belt will help squeeze the armour a little. I did another test fit and it doesn't look horrible. I may not attempt any more additional shaping. The thinking behind this is that if I cut down the shape the kidney section any more, I will need to trim down the sides. In its current shape, it just manages to meet up with the ab section and it feels snug, yet not constricting. But... if I want to shape it more, I can do so in the future. With the kidney taped to the ab in position, I tested out the chest sizing again. If I cut out the neck a little more, I may be able to get away with not having to cut and reshape the bottom return edge. (We'll see. I may end up trimming it anyway). I suppose I should add: I am somewhere between 5'6" and 5'7".
  9. That sounds like an excellent idea actually. I have read here and there about the returns on the back being prone to cracking. And after seeing the originals with the screw holes needing to be relocated because they tore out (at least that's what seems to have happened), I definitely wanted to reinforce and do what I can to prevent the potentially inevitable.
  10. Using the scrap from the kidney, I cut out small bits for mounting support. following Fragarock's and UKswrath's build threads. I know this isn't movie accurate, but does this affect centurion status? So far, I only did it to the upper back. Can be undone if needed. Superglued them in place on the back. Re-marked the points for the holes. Drilled the them at 7/64. I used a 7/32 drill on the outer return edge to give the holes a little chamfer to countersink the screws slightly. Installed brackets.
  11. The other battlestation. I started with 200, but eventually boosted it to 250. Time to attack that wobble Started with a more focused tip for the curved section. You can see in the background it's flattened out. For this I ended up using my fingers for the most part. Switched to a wider tip to concentrate on the flatter, longer sections. Curve is a lot flatter now. And I was able to push down the bulge in the middle Flat once again. For the edge, grabbed the wood block, heated up along the edge and pressed it out a bit Used some curved, wide, flat pliers to grab and bend the plastic without removing the heat The gloves allowed me to hold and manipulate the part with my hands or the pliers without any risk to my flesh. Managed to get the cut out curves into shape again too. Heat gun allowed for much better control. Even if I end up cutting more off, it was good to get more comfortable with the use of the tool. I had to mess with it a bit more, but I was able to maintain the overall curve. Matching it to the back, it looks like I'm going to need to do a little more shaping further from the sharper parts of the curve. Also, thank goodness for the editor saving input. I would have had to have rewritten so many posts by now XD
  12. Ramping up the battlestation again. Pot on the right is for cold water bath. Turns out it was more useful for cooling down my hands Full pot, rolling boil. Part of the problem before was that I couldn't get the part shaped quickly enough before it cooled down. Put on some gloves that let me handle and shape the plastic in the water. When the heat got too hot even with the gloves, I dunked my hands in the cool water. Grabbed some popsicle sticks and used pliers to compress the edge. Testing to see that it would work. This would have been easier if I had not trimmed down the return edges so much already, but alas. This is what I've got to work with. Ready to enter the pot. Found a block of wood to try to assist shaping. You can see the popsicle sticks and pliers did the trick to flatten out the return edge. Cut two pieces and played with it for a while. Still wobbly, but in the right shape. Next step may be the heat gun, but now that I know ~200 degrees does the trick to get it a little bendy (but not floppy), I'll start at that temp with the heat gun so that I don't overdo it.
  13. Not yet, but i may need to get one! That is definitely on my list. Thanks for the suggestion!
  14. Thank goodness! Thanks for posting that! I thought i was going a little crazy over here. I hadn't taken very good before pictures or measurements so i was starting to freak out a little. I do have a heat gun which would allow for greater control so long as i can direct it correctly, but i haven't figured the right temperature yet.
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