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Now updated to match current CRL requirement. Note: This checklist has been updated on 1/18/2024. wingnut65 Visual guides updated by TK-50297 Wingnut65 Printable PDF at bottom TK50297 wingnut65 latest addition NEW Helmet exploded view fine detail visual guides suits Level 2 and Level 3. Note: This checklist has been updated on 1/18/2024. wingnut65 Printable PDF below 04 FISD ANH Stunt L3 Centurion - Ver 03 1-2024.pdf 30 ANH Stunt Helmet - Ver 02 1-2024.pdf

It's been a while, but I thought I'd share this anyway: The short film was so much fun that we can't stop. Bucketheads is continuing as a mini-series with the help of my Garrison brothers and sisters. Shane Molina from Hawaiian Mako Design created another poster for us. I'll keep you updated as the project moves on. You can also follow us on the socials @Bucketheadsfilm

Hi Robert, and Thank You for your submission for Centurion level (and your patience)! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Not a lot to say here, brother... You did an outstanding job on re-painting those traps/ear bars and fantastic work on those drop box fixes! Know that it's always a pleasure for Sha Sha and I to see when someone steps up to plate like this and goes the extra mile to reach level 3. We really do appreciate it. The main issue we were having is that while the gaps between the shoulder bells and chest/back plates look great, the tops of the bells are a little farther from the shoulder bridge than we normally like to see. HOWEVER, we understand that troopers come in all shapes and sizes, and after looking into the matter with multiple PMs and additional photos, we have decided that you honestly did all you could to address the issue so we are happy to welcome you to Level 3! Although you can't troop just yet due to what is going on the world, once you can you will be representing the Japanese Garrison, The FISD and the 501st proudly as it's newest Centurion level TK. Well done, sir!

Painting Using Templates We tend to see a lot of folks who want to use paint instead of decals on their helmets, but sometimes they just don't turn out as planned. The main issue folks have is that the paint bleeds into the sides of the template, leaving small streaks on the sides which can look awful. The following is my preferred method, which has had pretty darned good results in the past. Will they turn out 100% perfect? Not always, but I have the remedy for that at the bottom of the post. For the purpose of this tutorial I am using blue painter's tape in lieu of a decal just to show the basics. What you will need: 1. Craft (popsicle) stick- This is to stir the paint. Do NOT shake the bottles... this causes bubbles. 2. Pencil with a flat rubber eraser. 3. Paintbrush- Use the best quality, softest bristle type you can. Cheap stiff bristle brushes will leave lines. 4. Paint. For this example I am using French Blue (as used on the tube stripes) and white. 5. Paper towels. Step 1- Use the flat end of the eraser to make sure the edges are pushed down as much as possible and remove any bubbles in the decal. Do this gently, otherwise you may peel up the edges instead of flattening them. Step 2- Using the craft stick, mix the paint thoroughly. Wipe off the end with a paper towel and set aside. Step 3- Starting at the top corner (either side) add a light coat of white paint. (Yes, white). Go from side to side all the way down to the bottom. Do NOT go too heavy, just enough to cover. Let this dry at least half an hour. Step 4- Repeat the same process with the white but go from corner to corner over the entire area. Let this dry completely. (An hour or so at least). NOTE: The reason for the white paint is that it will fill/seal any tiny spaces/gaps on the edges of the template. Step 5- After mixing the blue paint with the other end of the craft stick, using up and down strokes add a thin(ish) layer of the blue. Don't go heavy and try to do it in one shot. Trust me. Let this dry completely (at least an hour or 2). Step 6- Repeat step 5. Allow to dry at LEAST 2-3 hours or more, depending on humidity. If you press your finger on the paint and see your fingerprint in the paint, it's not completely dry. Be patient. Step 7- Time for the reveal!- Slowly (and by slowly I mean sloooooooooowly) remove the decal from top to bottom (in the same direction as the lines). Because I used masking tape the lines aren't as crisp and clean as you would get with a proper template, but you get the idea. One of the reasons for an imperfect line is that you must wait until the paint is positively, 100% dry before removing the decal. FIXING LINES If you have some bleed-through, or need to remove paint around the teeth for instance this is what to do: You will need: 1. Paint remover- I always use Goo-Gone, as it contains no chemicals that will damage the finish (like acetone based removers can). It really works great and has no chemical smell. 2. Another craft stick shaved at one end. A wooden toothpick will also work, but I like wider edge of the craft stick, 3. Cotton swabs 4. Paper towels. Let's start with this mess (done on purpose). Step 1- Dip the end of the tick in the remover and gently go side to side along the edge(s). Take-your-time. Step 2- Get the line as straight as you can. You can always touch it up with more blue paint if needed. Step 3- Remove any blue haze with the swab(s) dipped in the paint remover. Done! There are more ways to do this, so if you have any suggestions or questions, post em up!

Hello Troopers! I am currently going through a mid-life crisis and decided I want to be a Stormtrooper so here I am... Okay that is only about half true, mid-life yes, crisis no. I've been interested in the 501st since I found out about it years ago. Like many of you I'm sure, I have put off getting involved because of other adult things like food, shelter, kids, etc. Well I think I am getting close to ordering my kit so I thought I would become more active on the site. I can already see years worth of tips and advice I want to go through so if you are a contributor, Thanks!! My plan is to order the untrimmed AP kit and go slow. Thanks for so many resourses! Until later, from the Great White North, take care and be safe! Scott

Down to 36. Congratulations to our newest EI, darthcue. Way to go Ted!!

That’s awesome! I watched your fan film, the best Star Wars fan film I’ve ever seen! Looking forward to the series!

Applied my final coat of Bondo fiberglass resin around the whole interior! Set it in the sun and occasionally rotate it. It's already feeling stiff and smooth! Next (maybe this afternoon): sand around the inside, since some frayed cloth tips are poking out. After that (probably Wednesday to ensure sufficient curing): start cutting out the vents with a Dremel...

Congratulations Robert! Awesome job! I know how much time and effort you put into making your armor top notch. You spent a lot of time getting things the best they can be and it shows. Very proud to have another Centurion in the ranks here in Japan! Well done!

May the Fourth be with you, rebel scum!

Vader wanted to see what all this white armor was about...

I don't know if you'll be a good trooper, because if you served in Afghanistan, I'm sure you have good aim......Just kidding... I like the emotion you have every time you get a part of the armor...I'm sure you'll take your armor to centurion level...I'm sure. Regards...

Now updated to match current CRL requirement. Note: This checklist has been updated on 1/18/2024. wingnut65 Visual guides updated by TK-50297 Wingnut65 This new Hero Helmet visual checklist is added on 1/18/2024. wingnut65 Printable PDF below 31 ANH Hero Helmet - Ver 01 1-2024.pdf 03 FISD ANH Hero L3 Centurion - Ver 02 1-2024.pdf

Now updated to match current CRL requirements. Note: This checklist has been updated on 1/18/2024. wingnut65 Visual guides updated by TK-50297 Wingnut65 Printable PDF available at bottom. TK50297 wingnut65 latest addition NEW exploded view fine detail visual guides. Note: This checklist has been updated on 1/18/2024. wingnut65 Printable PDF below 04 FISD ANH Stunt L2 EIB - Ver 03 1-2024.pdf 30 ANH Stunt Helmet - Ver 02 1-2024.pdf

Congratulations Robert...

Next stops EIB and CENTURION!!! Regards...

Congratulation and welcome to Centurion trooper

Hi Scott and welcome to the FISD! AP is a great kit - I have two. I have details on how I trimmed it documented in one of my builds. If you are interested - let me know and I'll make sure you get the link. Enjoy your mid-life non-crisis. You picked a great way to deal with it. lol.

Hi Scott, Welcome to FISD and the Mid-Life Crisis Club . We are here to help, feel free to ask questions and research all the forum. Cheers

As you said, both are the same, so from my view the difference is and will be when you place the back cover and make the adjustment Joseph pointed. both shins will fir better and give you a better look. After this you can place the sniper knee. ( This is what I have done ) The following photos are of an approved RS Centurion for you to have and idea. May the 4th be with U Cheers

The left one is sitting a little lower than the right one, and both could come up more. Raising them would also allow you to bring the bottoms in closer together so that the rear cover strip doesn't have such a wide area to cover.

Last night I prepped 12 N40 and 20 N52 magnets with painters tape. I did a quick review of Joseph's Magnets 101, then proceeded with caution. Even so , the N40 magnets got me with a blood blister as I was handling them from their shipping container. Those magnets are powerful. I started with the outside of the forearms and did some trimming to get my cover strip seam the same size as my cover strip (ended up taking off a little too much material). I measured the length of the cover strip and then snipped off the corners (I learned that I'm bad at estimating a 45° cut). Next I sanded the bottom of the cover strip and the top of the butt joints and wiped them down with a microfiber towel. Then it was time to wrangle some slippery E6000. I'm liking the approach of gluing the cover strip to one side, waiting 15 min for the tackiness to set in, then gluing the two butt joints together. I found that some of my Anovos armor pieces only have a plastic wrap on the inside. That was confusing. And now I have some polishing in my near future, as some of the pieces have gotten dinged. No worries.

Hi. Congrats for starting your build! A really good resource for building is this: This is a really detailed account of building the Anovos kit. For adhesive, it depends what you are trying to glue, but many of us use E-6000. You don't technically need a blaster for basic approval - but what trooper doesn't have a blaster, right? Post some pics and we'll let you know (you will need a imgur or tapatalk (or something similar) account to post pics on the forums). There are a few vendors that offer good belts. Check out the for-sale section: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/16-ongoing-sales-project-runs/ Good luck with your build.

Hummm. I don't know... I don't like that brow height.

great tips mate, keep it up

Repainted TD screws black as requested http://imgur.com/gallery/5KBVoAu Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

Congratulations Trooper!! Welcome to Centurion

Congrats, Robert!

SHINS PART 2 This is the step where I added the magnets to hold my Shin seam together. First, I have 5 points that I want to use magnets to clasp the shin. I drill holes into acrylic plates. Then I added a thin acrylic sheet behind it, to hold the magnet, and then glued the magnet into the recess. This is how it looks on the other side, showing the magnet that will be glued to the other side of the shin seam. And here they are trimmed to size, edges rounded to prevent catching any body suit. I glued then onto one side of the seam, thin acrylic sheet facing up. If you understand what I am saying, when clasped, the magnet will be pulled against this layer, and you won't run the risk of magnets popping out of their recesses. Also, the thin acrylic creates a softer clasp then directly with magnets, as these magnets tend to break when the impact is hard. And this is how it looks on the inside. A nice seam when clasped. So repeat for the other side, and shins are done! Oh ya, back the pill button with black gaffer tape.

Return edges can look great but add rigidity to the plastic which can lead to stress fractures and cracks. Best to clean up that line. Check this thread on return edges.

I did mainly research tonight, I did get a few pieces closer though. The front of the thighs are completely done. The front of the shins are curing/drying. I cut out hopefully the rest of my visible cover strips and managed to have enough magnets to get a forearm started and a bicep started. The sheet I got was 17.5"x17.5" so I could cut one 15mm strip and cover part of a forearm and part of a bicep. Thankfully the bicep was small enough normal clamps would work, I used clamps because I ran out of magnets. I bought 30, if I were doing this regularly I think 80 would suffice, I could then do both legs or both arms all at once lol

Lid traps

The sun seems to be helping! I'll probably add a last coat of resin tmrw to smooth out some of the pointy frayed edges of the cloths, with definitely enough catalyst.

Sensational work Jasper, fast becoming my favorite build thread.

ok, may be this pictures? Cheers.

Hi Caleb, the following reference photos can give you an idea of the Belt position. CRL States for Level 3: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Keep on doing a Pura Vida work

Jeff turned me on to some good making tape. I have decent frown paint now. Thanks Jeff

Thank for that. I’d read that recommendation about size somewhere in these threads - so I went 2-3 euro sizes Large. So they fit pretty good. A little large perhaps. BUT I can barely squeeze into them. Once they’re on, all is good. But getting them on?? Wow. Almost impossible

You will need to supply a link to your 501st profile... https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=20242&costumeID=24

I got the helmet fully assembled. It looks like all that is needed is internal padding and painting: I think I'm hold off from painting until everything is assembled then go and paint the ab buttons and helmet. Looks like its now time to focus on the torso..... ***important lesson learned*** I should have installed a screw near the bottom of the helmet on each side (not just the circle part of the ear) to hold the helmet together. When I tightened the bottom screw after trimming my ears, the helmet slightly changed its shape (very small, the added pressure of the bottom screw added the smallest change in shape. That along when I was using my compass when sizing my ear......I was putting a lot of pressure on my thumb on the ear; making sure it was pressed against the helmet. My fingers on the inside of the helmet (which were right under the tube section) was also slightly changing the shape of the helmet. So when I screwed everything on there was a gap on the ears. Especially on the right side. Basically the ears were sized to the helmet when I had my hand squeezing helmet pieces together. So the next helmet I do I will make sure there is a screw near the bottom and when i put the ear against the helmet for sizing I will make sure the ear is not being squeezed against the helmet.

Looking fantastic, Shane! I realize that you haven't started on the strapping yet, and the areas mentioned below will take care of those. You are definitely on the fast track for Centurion, sir! These would be my suggestions: 1. Having everything level/symmetrical is important for an ideal look. The bottoms of the bells and wrist openings are presently at a different heights, but no biggie, as once you install the straps you should be golden. I would definitely suggest making sure the tops of the bells touch (or are VERY close to) the ABS shoulder bridges. This will also bring them in closer to the chest and back plates. 2. The gap in the back/kidney connection should be reduced. This should be a matter of just dropping the back plate down a little. It's great that you haven't done the white shoulder elastic yet, as that will make it much easier. 3. The rear closures on your calf pieces need some tweaking. The yellow boxes are where the cover strips should go. It appears that you have plenty of wiggle room on the left one, and the right one may just need to be lined up. Keep up the great work, and keep those photos coming!

GASKETS PART 2 And my arm pieces are back from the painters! Couldn't wait but to test fit my gaskets with the armour to see how my measurements were. It looks good, and this is before I strapped the gaskets across my body, which is why you see a little section near the top of my shoulders where there are no ribbing. So, strapping! After measuring the distance I need, I made 2 straps, and 2 more rectangular pieces. The rubber will be sandwiched between these 2 pieces of strapping, glued together, and then sewn. In this way, when there is tension, the strapping won't pull and tear the rubber. They would pull against strapping. And here they are glued and sewn together. For the front, I made a simple clip so I can get in and out of the gaskets. Did the same thing as the back: sandwich the rubber between 2 pieces of strapping glued together. And here it is completed. Notice that the ribbing now sits beyond the top of my shoulders, so when I wear my chest and yoke piece, only ribbing will be revealed. Calling this part done!

Now updated to match current CRL requirement. Visual guides updated by TK-50297 Wingnut65 Printable PDF below 08 ESB L3.pdf

I have learned so much a second build would be smoother. On the other hand, I’ve learned enough that I don’t think I’d ever want to do a second build. Andrew has been so helpful with this build. I look forward to showing you guys the finished product. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do they fit, Brad? Imperial boots are fantastic, but they tend to run a bit on the small side so I always suggest ordering a half to full size larger than you normally wear. I also recommend getting a set of shoe trees. Over time, the moisture from sweating can cause the leather to shrink, and those will ensure they stay the correct size.

Just a sneak preview of my armor. There is still a little work to be done. Like cutting the sides of the barrel and finishing my accurate helmet. Yeah, I forgot the boots Any thoughts and tipps?

Sounds like your having a breakthrough David. Your doing great, Andrew won’t steer you wrong as will anyone here. Keep up the good work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here my personal opinions on the AM tab: (No hate, please, lol). Photo 1 shows an AM posterior plate with the elongated tab removed. IMHO it's not a big deal, but the snaps are noticeable from the rear. Photo 2 shown that the screen used tabs were actually pretty long, enough that the snaps would not normally be visible. Photo 3 shows the tab with an even longer length than photo 2. Trooper (Han in this case) is bent over at the time, so this would normally not be seen if he were upright. Photos 4, 5 and 6 show that the snaps were pretty much hidden from view. Note that we have traditionally passed AM armor with the extended tab at Expert Infantry and Centurion levels.

DarthBiscuit, I did reinforce some areas with PC-7 (2-part epoxy paste) and I coated the entire inside of all armor with white liquid Flex Seal; however, I do not recommend apply the flex seal unless you are 100% sure where you want to place Velcro and mask those areas off. 3M backed Velcro will not stick to the Flex Seal and removal of cured Flex Seal is next to impossible. I chose to coat the inside of the armor with Flex Seal to minimize the abrasion of the fiberglass on the under suit but I did not realize that if I needed to remove a spot of Flex Seal to add some Velcro, the Flex Seal bonds to the fiberglass and even sanding it off will not fully remove it.