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Hi all, A follow up with the end cap retainer. I have it installed against the 2mm of green stuff added to the end of the reciever. Test fitting with end cap is just fine. Now pretty elated to see the reciever painted with grey primer. With magazine housing and front and rear sight installed, quite happy with the progress. I've masked away some parts as well like the metal parts of the rear sight and muzzle screws - hoping to make some details pop at a later detailing stage. Excellent to see it with uniform color hiding away all the green stuff though. We all know how much I used. Inserted inner tube, had from completion set, before spraying to keep inner parts clean and sides of vent holes and charging handle track painted nice. Thanks for dropping by friends! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Approved for basic! TK32568 reporting for duty Moved the left ear back, now need to fill a hole And filled Now to EIB and then centurion

Approved. TK32568 reporting for duty. Now on to EIB

Thanks for all the feedback everyone, I'll get some gaffer's tape (the painters tape isn't holding very well) and stick it together and see what I've got.

Thanks! Okay, good to confirm that. Back to heating them a bit. I’ll update again on progress for both left and right. I guess after gluing front cover strips, both shins took a different shape... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work, just to make your TD a little more accurate you could replace the screws with black slotted pan heads You are correct there should be little to no gap once you have your shins on and closed, could be they need a little heat to get them to sit a little better.

It may pass for basic approval, but nothing past that. I can't begin to describe how many things are wrong with this particular "E-11", which looks as if it is a recast of a Hasbro model. 1. T-tracks are all wrong 2. No recoil spring (or even an opening for one). 3. No charging handle. 4. Sights are wrong. 5. Folding stock is wrong. 6. Sides are uneven. Too many other things to mention... If you are looking for an "accurate" E-11, Morgan, this is not the way to go. You can either opt for a Hyperfirm, which is also made from a flexible material (which are not cheap, but are totally acceptable at all levels, contact slavefive for info https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/profile/1330-slavefive/?wr=eyJhcHAiOiJmb3J1bXMiLCJtb2R1bGUiOiJmb3J1bXMtY29tbWVudCIsImlkXzEiOjQ1MTc2LCJpZF8yIjo2MTcwMTl9or build one using a Doopydoos kit: https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp Sorry to rain on your parade, brother, but you kinda' get what you pay for. Please feel free to ask any other questions you may have,,, we are here to help!

Congrats in this thread too!! I really need to get some spare time to submit my own EIB application!

Congratulations!

Alright, after my first very exciting weeks in the Legion, Saturday marks my first official event, and since there are only two people attending I'm also gonna experience the duties of an OLC... I'm really looking forward to it tho, and on top of that I painted some parts of my Stanley box white and put my ID on it as well, and I worked on my armor and applied for EIB a second ago. Interesting times ahead Cheers, Freddy

Yes [emoji106] Sent from my G3311 using Tapatalk

Nice build! Welcome to the ranks! As far as Centurion goes, I can't tell from the pictures- do you have the six rivets on the ab/kidney?

Congrats Lou!!!

Many congrats, mate.[emoji16]

Roger that. Should be able to do some more armor on shots after work. I think it'll be where it needs to be now. Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

Left ear moved back and the hole is filled/polished

Hi Rat thanks! Am I thinking right that I can take another 3mm off and be ok? On the top part I was going to sand so its flat but still have the lip. I also sanded the TD caps 20mm I was going to do more but then the power went out... turns out was a massive fire near me..... helped some old couple get out the way... All good now and no one was hurt..

For the part the film used armour had very little return if any on most edges. The notable exception being where they used the wire brackets to join the body sections. On my armour I've reduced most of my returns to about 3mm ish or less. The bigger returns reduce the amount of flex you can have in the armour and so tend to lead to cracks forming.

Congratulations!

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Cleared!! [emoji3] [emoji3] TK11071 [emoji322][emoji106] Sent from my G3311 using Tapatalk

If you know someone with a 3d printer you could have one made.

Like Brien mentioned, resin and plastic are both fairly easy to trim. Resin can be more brittle, though, and easier to chip.

Do not be alarmed, just a bit of reference from a book published by Chronicle Books. I am sorry I should’ve thought of this earlier and add to the discussion. but it just pop into my mind when someone ask about TKC on IOC Facebook group if he’s a commissioned or non-commissioned officer. This is in a book called “Imperial Handbook” back in 2015: https://www.amazon.com/Star-Wars®-Imperial-Handbook-Chronicle/dp/1452145288/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538973252&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=imperial+handbook&dpPl=1&dpID=61weZtrbH4L&ref=plSrch Inside the book there is a Stormtrooper section, and they have this illustration: As you can see, the ammo knee belt is in classic OT configuration, the armor parts are in ANH style too without ROTJ trim, and appears to be butt-joined. There is also a small illustration of TFU Incinerator Trooper, but the details was nothing like the video visual references, I guess the Artist took liberties on that too. So ultimately we should stick with the video screen captured references I guess.

I'm loving this build brother

Trim the neck first Lorelei. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Yeah, that is what inspired me to ask. I was wondering how exactly he did that, and how I could do it myself. Thanks though!

The torso is fitting a LOT better than expected. I've modified the widths on everything but the chest so far. The kidney sits away from my back a good bit due to differences in build between me and your conventional TK, but when I taped it to the posterior plate it was fairly content to hover. I can pad it out if needed. I was most surprised to find that the entire torso back wasn't insanely long on me. In shock, I compared my measurements to those of the back armor pieces (all butted right up against each other) and they're pretty much the same. Sooo, I don't think I'll be trimming the kidney... I'm feelin tall, y'all! How does the chest plate/ab overlap look? It slid down ever so slightly during fitting so technically you'd be able to see more ab. I think the chest looks like it should sit higher up, not for the ab's sake so much as for the arm hole's sake. I've seen some shorter troopers trim out the neck hole. Any thoughts, @Cricket ? Would you recommend that over trimming the lower edge of the chest, at least as a first step? I'm liking where the cod sits. It's about even with the posterior. The posterior may need to not wrap around so far though. I'll see where the drop boxes hang and consider trimming the sides. I will plot out cut lines for the ab/kidney and bathe the ab again (new off-center center point) before I make those cuts. Then it's time to install snap plates so I can stop it with all the tape everywhere. Oh also, my thighs are in one piece now!! (The blue tape is purely decorative.) Taking off just the back raised cover strip portions (ATA has those EVERYWHERE) was plenty to bring them down to size. Hot water bathing them in a pot was tough, but workable, area by area. I may have to take some off the tops, but we shall see.

Painters tape is a good substitute to use in those areas clamps don't reach. You can also reduce the pull of magnets by adding a little tape and scraps of ABS wrapped around them. You could also just use a magnet on one side and on the inside a metal ruler

Put the thighs aside for a moment and started on the ab boxes. Here`s all the pieces laid ot and I managed to put the second from the left (as looking at it) upside down. The boxes need shaping so I´m using a contour tool for that. I eye-balled the thicknes of the boxes by looking att screen shots and the Crl and used the first box (when I was happy with it) as a guide for the others so they are consistent, had started the shaping when I remebered to take a pic so that`s way the biggest box is already finished. Here`s how they will be installed. Using a plastic screw and you drill a hole, insert the screw, put some glue on the head, put the box in place and then from the inside push the screw up to the box, I´m using super glue so hold for a few seconds and that`s it. Just in case I´ll be mixing some epoxy to cover the screw heads but not untill all boxes are done. And..some time later all boxes are trimmed, holes drilled and the screws in place. Using the method described one box at a time got done. Extra glue added, ready to install. Installed: Screws are obiously cut down on the inside unless you want to test your pain threshold

There are 2 alternatives you can use, Michael, resin or aluminum. Here is a seller on eBay that sells the resin ones: ----------- Below is a seller I used on my last Doopydoos build to replace the muzzle. I personally like the sharpness of the aluminum edges. I cut off the front and had to use a Dremel to thin out the barrel opening so that it would fit, but after some epoxy, sanding and painting it came out great. ----------- I also used his aluminum parts to replace the mag well, folding stock, magazine and end cap.

Sorry Marko, looks like I missed to reply earlier. You can align the rear foot of the scope to sit above the folding stock hinge. In other words, just move that scope 3cm closer to the rear sight. Great idea with the red light inside the scope. Excited to see this working...

REAL quick before I go play Mario Kart - another dry fit this evening. I have thoughts on it of course but I'm curious if anything glaringly awful jumps out at anybody (other than the kidney overlapping the ab, and other obvious test fit, er, idiosyncrasies). I know, you mistook me for a real live stormtrooper in that last one. Just me. Just me.

Hi all, Quick update here.... WIth or without the BlastFX, having purchased Tino's quality pieces still puts a smile on my face when I think of my barren and very hollow blaster I'm happy to say I have no way of short circuiting any item from the completion set, that's enough of that! Painting the E-11 is a fun part of the Blaster build. Grey Primer applied to many parts. I sprayed over the shiny parts too; figure I can buff the paint out with the right dremel bit. Rust-Oleum Grey Primer on Folding Stock Primer paint on trigger group and front sight pin and block Way cool to see these in grey - there was allot of green stuff otherwise! Magazine and End Cap with Primer Paint Coil grabs the spring cup pretty tight, which is able to keep the it in place. Coil install against spring cup Here is a rather ugly picture of how the end cap retainer is sitting on the rear of the receiver tube. I'm just glad the end cap is sitting nicely and with the 'T' of the end cap clip installed, the lock mechanism is working just fine. Testing positional accuracy of end cap and end cap clip Coil is compressing nicely with the pull of the charge handle. It really is interesting to see it hollow where the exposed bolt was. I will need to add a cover at a later time. Testing the movability of the Rear of the Exposed Bolt Will go about priming the receiver tube in the next few days - this will be fun to see it all grey; post to come shortly, thanks for reading! Current Status of Priming some major components of the E-11

At least the helmet looks ok Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good call in taking a break if it`s not fun, because is should be And if I may, unless you`re just fed up with all things Stormtrooper at the moment, use the "down time" to read up on the many build threads, that will get you ahead of the game for when you get your mojo back