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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by LTM

  1. Ok, tried playing around with the forearms as it can be difficult to get my hands past the hole First version Cut the plastic at an angle, then basically forcing it back at the wrist. A zipper would pull the two sections together. Downside is not a lot of room at the wrist and the plastic would need to be cut multiple times to get everything straight. Still plenty of room when the wrist is closed Second version: Use the top plate to cover (no cutting in half) Magnets to hold the top plate on the forearm 2 posts center the box, magnets hold that on the plate Box would be glued to bottom plate, magnets would keep tension on the posts top rail would be glued to the box Look from the wrist end Issues: The plastic near the elbow limits how much the wrist end can open up. But the top plate works like a charm. Third version: Will make a zipper the full length, no plastic as a bridge. Then I just put in on like an eighties leather wrist band (showing my age), and zip it up. Plenty of room for my hand. Then put the top plate on with magnets and should be good to go. Will update once I get the new zipper. Please note this is a test mule, final version will be much nicer.
  2. Using the 5th horsemans files, I printed the heavy blaster. Using XTC-3D filler, so far so good. Electronics on order and should be in hand within 10 weeks. Printed parts: It does a great job in filling the lines (basically it is thin epoxy) Shiny! Just use sandpaper to knock down the lumps and bumps Will still need filler primer, but this should take some time off the build
  3. Working on the display mounting Scope is installed and working Wires are hidden going to the scope (that was a pain). Not only for the display, but the top knob is functional and is used for the different modes. Easy to use with gloves. The knob goes on the post Beautiful display Battery is in the main tube Going to also make a heavy blaster, will start a new thread.
  4. Done for now, now I need to cut the excess. Attached the two boxes on the left shin. Glazed and final sanded after this photo (thought I took photo) Cutting out the ab boxes Fit and finish is great, still need to sand flush but so far so good Now I need to glue (using the same as @ukswrath from his FOTK build), smells but a quick setup - 45 minutes for maximum adhesion. The AB has a curvature, if I just put a reinforcing strip behind it I am concerned that this will be pulled towards the body. If I need to keep the curvature, I will need to hot water shape the strip.
  5. Adding height to the kidney plate. Made a wooden form and cut a 3 inch piece and a 2 inch inside joiner strip. At 8.5 inches tall, adding the additional 3 inches looks huge. Will cut the arm locations and trim as necessary. This will keep me moving forward on the build (hopefully I will get a new kidney from Walt when he has formed them).
  6. Thanks Glen! Is there a measurement from the pill hole in the shin to the top of the spat (or just eyeball it)? I assume this would be the same for TFA and TLJ?
  7. I dont have a KB kit, this is a Walt kit and there is no groove.
  8. Might have answered my own question, but the suits appear to be much thicker than our ABS.
  9. Legs. Need to taper the gaskets. Going with the overlap inside of thighs, but epoxied closed as plenty of room to slip on. For the shins I will overlap but use a magnet closure. With the OTTK I made the shins fit my body, but does the FOTK keep a larger diameter and you use foam inside to keep it centered on the leg? For the spats, does the top have a return edge? I will do the double magnet closure system, so lots of work still to do on this part. Last question, does the spat need to rest on the shin (I see KB kits have a groove) or can it be free floating below it?
  10. Welcome! I replied back on your thread
  11. Alright trooper, get some gaffer tape and start suiting up. AM is a great kit, you can do this! AJ has a great build thread I used Seans when I was building And here is my build
  12. Thanks for the reply. The issue with how it was sitting was due to extra material added to the ab section was actually pushing up and forward. Here is the before picture. Those "wings" at the top were the culprit. I marked where the chest plate sits on the ab. In this pic you can see how it actually flares out at the top Now sitting level at the waist and the back just touches the kidney. But as soon as I move it pops out. The kidney plate is 8.5 inches from top of belt (the plastic skirt) to the top where the TD would hook on (I am going to do the notch mod). Other builder kits are from 11-13 ish inches, so this is my problem. Walt has responded back that he will increase the size.
  13. Here's the issue (its the same when I have the undersuit on). Since this photo I removed some plastic from the front and that helped the torso sit a little more level. However I am still close to the top of the kidney, if I slightly move the back pops up. The plate for the TD is 8.5 inches. The kidney is 8 5/8 inches from top to top of belt I am 6'1" So if I add material to the top of the kidney plate that is not an issue, but the TD plate will have to be increased as well. Have not seen anyone with this issue so it makes me think that my kidney is modeled shorter than the other vendors.
  14. Can someone measure their kidney plate from bottom (near the belt) to the top (this would be the area covered by the TD plate). My back is not covering the kidney, I would like to see the size to know if I am just on the tall size or if the plastic is molded for a shorter trooper. If I add more height to the kidney, I would also have to add to the TD plate and I have not seen that issue with other armor makers, I am asking for the measurement from the red line (top of kidney) to the top of where the belt starts)
  15. The forearm mod. So I can get the halves to separate about .75 inches (19.05 mm) but this really doesn't add much to the ability to get your hand in and out. It also goes against the CRL where the first 1/3rd is to not be attached. Observations from my experiment: 1. The rail had to be made out of rubber/silicone, I believe it was attached to the forearm with the screw. Possible that they used magnets or velcro to keep it in place. 2. Looking at the screen shot where a trooper has it unzipped and using his hand to drink a beverage, to get that angle of flex I question if other parts of the forearm are not also make out of flexible silicone/rubber. I will post up pics from the test mule and you can see for yourself. Even if I cast pieces in rubber, it would be a real challenge to get them painted to match the plastic (not that I am that great of a painter).
  16. Back to the build. Been busy with test fitting and talking with Walt on setup. So active on the build, but I didn't want to share the back and forth of a new kit. Walt is a great guy to deal with on this suit. Going to go for Centurion so making as many changes now as possible before painting. Studying lots of builds and decided to do the bicep accuracy changes. The resin insert is the correct size (at least from other makers kits) so I adjusted the plastic (Walt with adjust the molds to fit the resin piece). I went ahead and cut the bicep to remove the rounded over edge from the vac process. Also removed the indent on the bicep to make it sharper and more defined. Still need to fill and sand again, but wanted to show some forward progress. And finally the overall look. I still need to straighten the clasp indent
  17. Working on the forearms (what a pain)... Can someone measure their version of forearms to see if mine are "average" Ok, going to try the zipper version. This is a test mule so it will look rough, but I am learning from it. I cut the middle and angled out the sides, currently I can get about .75 of an inch (or 1.9 cm). The ends are sharp, so will need to address that. I am not sure if the pad part is oversized (I think it is) as it covers the top and in reference photos there is a ledge on either side. Not sure if that is the forearm or pad... Did make it so that once closed the rail fits, in the next version will cut out the groove prior to cutting the forearm. The zipper will be attached with duck cloth stitched and either epoxied or use Velcro (not sure if it will hold). More later when I can get some feedback on measurements (either adjusting the forearm or pad).
  18. Ok, cod comparison, certainly more like a TLJ version (new one on left) Worked on the TD, lid looks correct at this point. Still have to do a final sanding/painting Greeblies
  19. It's a WTF lid. I am planning on building it last
  20. On the forearm, does the top plate sit flush (no return) or is it like a "double hump"
  21. SBB (small brown box ) day, with new cod and grebblies. Will post a picture later. Lost a much weight as possible, time to resize the torso.
  22. Update: Still losing weight, a few more pounds to lose around the mid-section. Walt (WTF) is working on a new specific COD, no eta yet.
  23. Its the bottom of the thigh? I am going to remove all the return as you would not see it with the gasket in place, as no one will be looking from the bottom up. This will also help in making sure the plastic does not cut into the gasket material. BUT, trim back until you are comfortable (like Glen has pointed out) and you can always remove more after a trial fitting.
  24. We can use my build for the TLJ blaster, just need feedback on what to fix as I go along. I will also have the separate tube for the TD.
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