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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/16/2018 in all areas
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3 points
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First I reopen the shingate conspiracy, now I start Unsolved Ab buttons.......2 points
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Worked on putting my belt together the other evening. I trimmed everything down to size on the guide I have a few posts back Than I measured the 45 degree angle cuts and cut them out I than added the pop snaps to the Ab piece. I forgot the measurements from the horizontal edge but the vertical are 1/2 inches from the bottom edge Right: Left: With the help of some tape I measured the distance from right snap to the left snap I took this measurement to my Imperial Issue belt. I measured between the velcro and marked the halfway point on the belt than I measured 6 1/4 inches from the middle point I than used a soldering iron to put the holes in the canvas belt at the 2 outside marked spots and added my snaps I test fitted this on the Ab to make sure the spacing was correct Now onto the waist ammo belt. I measured the 3 holes for the rivets according to the illustration again and drilled them out I lined up the belt with the inside 45 corner on the inside line of stiching and marked the points on the belt with a dry erase marker Again I used the soldering iron to make the holes and than put the rivets in place. I put a 3mm washer on the back to give it a bit more grip Did a test fit on the Ab and with the waist ammo pack on I was unable to get the snaps to stay snapped. I drilled out one rivet and moved one snap over to where the edge of the old one use to be. Made a new hole re-snapped, and riveted. That did the trick.2 points
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You need to hammer the rivets on a very hard surface. I use my vice as an anvil and the rivet legs hammer very flat. Once you have the rivet legs split open with whatever tool you are using, just use the hammer directly to flatten the legs. I tape a strip of scrap plastic on the outside of the armour over the rivets so I don't scratch the armour when setting the rivets.2 points
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Picking away at things. I’m upgrading my TK right now for a big troop in a couple weeks, so not much time left for the TD. I got the ears rough trimmed and on for my first of many rounds of seeing where I need to trim. This guy has spaces, so I don’t need to close the gap. Here are the ears. The tape are reference markers for paint blemishes on the original. The original has a very roughly painted surface. I won’t be replicating every bump of course - just the ones that are seen onscreen or have been pointed out in previous SWAT applications. Of course, SWAT applications are notorious for becoming more strict every application. I did consider painting the helmet HDPE-like green and then painting over with white - but I didn’t want to do that for the whole suit. Plus, I want the whole thing to still look good in person to the general public. I want it to look like how they think they remember the armour looking, if that makes sense. I’m trying to test how I’m going to add the paint drips. Just using white paint doesn’t work well - it is a warmer white and just interacts with light differently than ABS. So I’m planning on using ABS paste. Really runny ABS paste as it turns out. Paint is on the right. My first attempts at ABS paste on the bottom. Final test on the left. Should work. You can’t tell from the pick, but I was able to fine tune the locations of the blemishes by overlaying pics in photoshop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2 points
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Wayne Winfield TK32945 Username-Waynocerous UK Garrison Armour- RWA Helmet- RWA Blaster- Doopys plus T-Jays finishing kit. Many thanks Wayne Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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Name: Niccolò Badoglio FISD Name: Marshall 501st ID: 41210 Profile page: http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=26808&costumeID=124 Garrison: Italica Garrison Expert Infantry link: Mandatory Info: Armor Maker: Anovos Helmet Maker: Anovos Blaster Type: Doopydoos tube + 3d printed parts and electronics + T-Jay kit Optional: Height: 187 cm Weight: 78 kg Boots Maker: Imperialboots Canvas Belt: TKittel Gloves: rubber (Trooperbay) Hand Plates Type: Flexible white (Trooperbay) Electronics: Aker + IComm + Bluetooth mic // arduino DIY project with RGB led strip and audio for blaster Neck Seal Type: Darman Holster Maker: Anovos Full body front (updated since EIB): Full body back (updated since EIB): Full body right (updated since EIB): Full body left (updated since EIB): Right side detail (updated since EIB): Left side detail: Gloves: Shoulder bridge left back: Shoulder bridge right back: Shoulder bridge front: Thigh ammo pack attachment: Sniper knee: Drop box back: Crotch-butt detail: Wrist detail: Helmet front: Helmet back: Helmet left: Helmet right: Hovi mic detail: Lens color (backlit): S-trim: Blaster left side: Blaster right side: D-ring: Ammo belt: Neckseal: Thermal detonator back with replaced pan-headed screws: Boots: Interior strapping (sorry a couple of straps are missing from the photo): Abdomen detail: Action shot: Many thanks1 point
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no and I'm not going to push them to. This is a beautiful design and the proprietary nature of 3d modeling is, in my opinion, to be respected. If he's willing, I imagine he'll post publically. I realize now that my post would have been better suited as a PM.1 point
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1 point
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Little bit of an update. Havent started on kit yet, still waiting for it to come in. Just made a deal for a B grade blaster (Hyperform), second pair of boots (TK Boots), Belt and holster. Hopefully not too much work needs to be done to the blaster, boots were a really good deal and could pass them up, and still need the belt and holster for the build. Everything should be here once the armor comes in, and when build starts hope there will not be any stalls due to missing items. Also got everything in for Helmet interior, just waiting on an Iphone for Troopertalk.1 point
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I’ll send you a PM with an ebay (UK) link as you’re in the UK. :-)1 point
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Great stuff! I’ll have a look round the forums to see who can source me some screws! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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As a DL, GML, and former XO at 2 other dets, I agree with your position Dave. This isn't specific to FISD, this is across all Legion costumes. It is not possible to capture every single detail in the CRL and that is not the intent. Even in the CRLs there are some parts where the text essentially says "make it look like the photo". Yes, at times GMLs can be over-zealous, but the path forward then for the applicant is clear too: 1. They can provide photos on the relevant detachment board asking for other input. That input still cannot override the GML decision, but usually an agreement is reached. 2. The GML can post a concern to the GML only area of the 501st boards. Again, they get recommendations but aren't bound by it. 3. In the extreme circumstance where a GML and applicant just can't find common ground, an applicant can always appeal to LMO review.1 point
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That Ab button plate does not have much of a lip on it at all. I added a backing plate to mine. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41502-crickets-wtf-hero-build-even-more-tk-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=5956241 point
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Gotchit. Then absolutely a GML can deny if the color isn't a match/close match. I would, and even self-policed my own kit to ensure it looked right.1 point
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Looks great! You might want to add a picture of the hand guards being folded over to demonstrate that they are flexible. Good luck!1 point
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I was pleasantly surprised with installing my split rivets .....as I was both confused, bewildered, and very anxious when I got to this part of the build. Like Wicket ascertaining the intentions of Leia and her food offering...lol.... My method was: a piece of wood under the armour to minimize scratching.....and then with needle nose pliers, start initiating the bend on the rivets as far as you can go. Then try a flathead screwdriver to push it down a little further (rolling the screwdriver over)....or a combination of pliers and screwdriver. Then, take a punch that is roughly the size of one of the legs and pound down each leg with a plastic mallet further. Once each end is down far enough....finish them both of with the plastic/rubber ended mallet until flush. The first one (on my cod piece) was a little scary at first. When I got to the kidney rivets, it was actually fun Good luck!1 point
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Thanks Dan, I'll do that now! Cheers for the help and feedback!1 point
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There are many options for neck seals from vendors here on the forums: They will make your neckseal to your neck size as well. Check them out!1 point
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Seeing the test pulls in petg has me pretty amped to get this kit finally however the prototype from Backstage Props posted over the weekend has me second guessing again. If they've really locked down a 1 piece yoke (more or less) and a 1 piece TD I might have to buy a second kit much sooner than I intended to.1 point
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Thanks guys [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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I used a cheap lobster pot picked up at my local grocery store. I think it's 12 quarts? I could fit about 2/3 of the untrimmed WTF shin in the pot. You put as much of the shin that will fit in the water for several seconds, then flip it, putting the other end in the boiling water. The ABS out stays hot enough to work with long enough to shape it. When molding the hot plastic, be sure to put it under running cold water to help 'lock' the new shape. You repeat this process until you get the shape you want. It's a gentle, gradual process.1 point
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1 point
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Great job on your armour, Wayne. Best of luck for EIB.1 point
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I was too paranoid to use a heat gun on my shins. I had great results using a hot water bath to get my shins to meet cleanly in the back.1 point
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There's no such thing as an approved builder, each suit is made bespoke for each trooper to fit that person. If you mean maker of the kit? Then all of the vetted sellers, to my knowledge, are able to offer you a TD (Sandtrooper) kit instead of a TK (Stormtrooper). Essentially they are the the same bar a small number of parts.1 point
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So trying to fix my shin to close better and I may have gotten a bit further than I wanted..... Any suggestions? Maybe its not that bad?1 point
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I wanna play. I'm Steve and I am from the Empire City Garrison. I've been a member of the 501st since 2014. I have always wanted to be a stormtrooper since I was a kid. Finally I started to get serious around 2011 and found the FISD. I did some research and realized how expensive this hobby was so I decided to step away after a few months. I finally made my way back in 2013 and decided it was time. Like many of you it was a very exciting time but also very stressful. I was always wondering if I had what it takes to build a set of armor. I powered through it and haven't looked back. I now have 5 costumes built and am currently working on an ESB vader. Here are a few of my favorite pictures from my time as a member: 1ST TROOP: CELEBRATION ORLAND ECG: CELEBRATION FISD STAFF PHOTO: I'll also leave this link here. This is a little "about me" story that is posted on the ECG blog: https://501ecg.wordpress.com/2017/06/14/why-we-troop-tk-10466/ Steve Sheades TK-104661 point
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Yeah I would say that those tabs should definitely be trimmed off. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk1 point
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Also, your chest bottom return edge looks a little thick, I’d recommend taking a mm or 2 off. Mine’s about 8mm.1 point
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After a few weeks of grinding out loads of inner plastic I did the first fitting test today. 1. The chest piece fits perfect. 2. Arm pieces are okay if a little big but will look fine when attached to chest piece 3. Shin pieces are fine. I accidentally cut the knee pieces off so I can either attach existing ones with velcro or make some out of foam. 4. Helmet is fine if a little big just needs padding out inside (mouth piece will be fitted after painting) 5. Bum and codpiece are okay but need to be attached to chest piece. 6. Big problem with thigh pieces they are way too big so I toyed with cutting them down but they were such a PITA to do I`m going to make some out of foam. 7. All the holes were filled with Polymorph Moldable Plastic Pellets (stuff you melt in water) all sanded down. 8. Gun still needs electrics fitting. 9. Then to paint. 10. Deadline is 4th May for the Blackpool Comicon. The saying is not "Aren't you a little bit small to be a Stormtrooper" its more like "you are the smallest Stormtrooper I've ever seen".1 point
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Perfect mate, thank you, with you in a moment.1 point
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1 point
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Congratulazioni Alessio, ieri è toccato a me, un saluto Tony Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk1 point
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I want it. I would probably call it a TK rather than a CT, because these events take place after Order 66 and the rise of the Empire. These guys are Imperial Stormtroopers, just in a sort-of transitional stage between armors.1 point
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Congratulazioni Alessio Inviato dal mio SM-G935F utilizzando Tapatalk1 point
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Thanks for leaving this up - I may be filling in some holes drilled on the wrong side of my armor. Perhaps. Great step-by-step instructions, and helpful pics!1 point
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Ok I’ve cut a bit away and sanded down. Hopefully improved. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro1 point
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1 point
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Just interruptions and delays. I still need to: finish re-doing the straps (I now have new snap-setting tools, so hopefully this will get done on my next days off) remove, trim, repaint, and reposition the ab buttons (or possibly just repaint) re-do the belt and order a holster repaint the helmet1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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Many congrats. Welcome to Expert Infantry. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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I have KB's FOTK in ABS and I really wish I had the PETG option like you do. I would like the details to be a little bit more crisp... oh well. It's still going to look awesome1 point
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Hey Niccolo welcome back and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present. Fantastic job on those EIB suggested updates. Very nice work Beautiful! That said Andrew and I delighted to say your armor displays all the elements as set out in the Centurion CRL. Congratulations and welcome to Centurion Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: We have nothing to add here. Nice work Niccolo Time to get out there and represent the Empire as its newest Centurion1 point
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Chris Trevas from "Parts of Star Wars" has positively identified the Flashlight Rail. It is a Unmark System Rail base for 416 Black(GTA1193) http://www.greenbase.hk/Unmark-System-Rail-base-for-416-Black-GTA1193- It appears to be correct and 100% accurate to the screen used flashlight rails. I will update the main post to reflect this discovery. Every single component of the Rogue One E-11 blaster has now been positively Identified, thanks to Chris for this! He is actually the same guy who identified the Flashlight itself as well.1 point
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Yes Im the one who built that armor... it is approved... all you have to do is check the TK number in the database. I'm getting so sick of all you guys ripping on David.. its sad. Leave the man alone. Is he hurting you? Slandering his name all over without cause makes you look bad. When is enough enough? Why do you guys think he has to prove anything to you? is he asking for you to support him?... why would he have to prove anything. Why would he show you his molds? What does he gain? Who are you guys when it comes to copyright infringement and what gives you the right to even ask to see molds? Just go be plastic space men and have fun. It was never meant to be about hating on armor makers boys. Whatever armor you got enjoy.. don't go around discouraging guys with lower budgets so they feel inferior to you and your 3000$ armor. This armor is 100% good for basic with zero mods.. Just so you guys know... My name is Mike O'Howe, and that picture is 100% legit. So just go make someone smile with your armor and dont make people feel bad about theirs. WE ARE ALL JUST PLASTIC SPACE MEN!1 point