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NEW In Memoriam Detachment Leader Deployment Office Census 2020 Merchandise Just For Laughs Hall of Fame INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS Common FISD Acronyms and TK Glossary Pre Approval Forum 3D Section Field Exercise Award Master Armorer Program Imperial Attaché Program Fire Teams EIB & Centurion: What do these terms mean? Advanced Tactics Awards Public Relations Staff List 2020 Follow FISD Penny McCarthy passed away September 18th of undisclosed causes. The American actress frequented various fan conventions, including the London Film & Comic Con (2018); Star Wars Celebration in Chicago (2019); the Power of the Force convention in Germany (2019); and most recently the Los Angeles Empire Con (Dec. 2019). You would not recognize the diminutive actress if you walked by her on the street. But to millions of Star Wars fans, they will remember Penny McCarthy for her non-speaking role in the Cantina on Tatooine as a Devaronian, a devil-looking alien. In the original Star Wars, she also acted as a Cantina Band member, a Jawa who misses R2-D2’s bolt, and was Carrie Fisher’s hand-double. (Her hand served as Princess Leia’s hand, which inserted the Death Star plans into R2.) Our condolences go out to her family and friends. "Buckets Off" John Cannon sadly passed on Sept 19th, he played a Stormtrooper in Star Wars: Episode IV A New Hope and Star Wars: Episode VI Return of the Jedi and a Holographic Imperial Officer in Star Wars: Episode V The Empire Strikes Back. Our condolences go out to hid family and friends. "Buckets Off" On the 4th of September, 2020 Shane J. Hawkins (ID-78299) passed away. Shane was a recent recruit of the Great Lakes Garrison. Despite his tour beginning amid a world-wide pandemic, Shane found occasion to troop in costume. Shane brought gifts to brighten the lives of children recovering at the Upper Peninsula Health System Hospital in Marquette and trooped his own chemo sessions, in an effort to bring continued awareness to Cancer research. In his free moments, Shane was a well-seasoned chef. Shane is survived by his two beloved sons, Jamesson and Charles. Our condolences go out to his family and friends. "Buckets Off" On the 25th of September, 2020 Francisco Quiñones (IC-9597) came to peace. Some years ago, Francisco was an active member of the Puerto Rican Garrison. And while he required a wheelchair to troop, he never let his challenges slow him down. Even after retirement, Francisco’s love of the community burned brightly. Our condolences go out to his family and friends. "Buckets Off" Greetings troopers It's October folks, can you believe Halloween is almost upon us! The excitement of last month with achieving our 1000 EI approved was a great celebration for the Detachment but we will soon reveal our next milestone campaign once the dust settles from Victory 1000. While we are still on a high lets look back at what we have managed to achieve this term in bringing you the best FISD can. It's a good reminder that many members have worked hard this year, involving themselves in our detachment plan initiatives to change things up and keep he forums interesting. Also keeping you all updated on the Detachment plan in the form of a health check keeps us transparent with you the membership, all based on what we set down to bring you in the February elections. Many of the plans were made to bring our forums up to date, and remain staunchly relevant to the old and the new. Some have been very large and time consuming endeavors, but ultimately hugely beneficial for everyone. First order battle group continues to expand with the latest additions being build thread sections for Captain Cardinal and Commander Pyre, and new Reference galleries for these and captain Phasma. The FOBG section will continue to expand into the future but we are glad there finally exists a good home and one stop resource outlet to support our First Order family. I personally was very pleased that I had the chance to get this idea off the ground finally, but please If you have anything to contribute to this section it is there for you. Visual checklists and guides are almost complete across all our CRL's for EI and Centurion with some big hours and outstanding drive from wignut65 (Jeff) DL's blog to keep you in the loop and behind the scenes with what's going on is alive and well, and I will continue to put these out on a regular basis. Forum refresh is complete with the colorful banners created by gmrhodes13 (Glen), personally I think they are all awesome, I hope you folks do to. New Vendors list completed, and it's great to see a FO specific list with so much content. I'd like to thank all our vendors for the outstanding products they produce and supply with consistency, you make becoming a highly screen accurate Stormtrooper that much easier. A few minor CRL amendments to make life easier for GML's and members alike. There are several larger updates to be started on where membership will have plenty of input so keep an eye out for those in the near future. March to 1000 special event merch Now revealed, the 11" patch and the pin, exclusive to the 1000 EI's will go on sale once we achieve the number. We leaked teaser pieces of the design over the last couple of months to build the anticipation and excitement and no doubt we had a few members trying to piece them together in an attempt to work out the total design. Look out for the sales thread to go live. CRL Translation team. This has just recently started with our first CRL being translated into Spanish. Many languages to follow but as we got through this process we are still finding a few errors in the CRL's themselves that need to be fixed. Stay tuned for updated progress on when they go live. Trading card issues now look to be resolved and moving forward again thanks to much help from Hoda (Eric) We now have a new spreadsheet and system with Tray finishing up the last few outstanding cards. Series 7 cards are all but closed out and we will move to series 8 and all on a print your own basis. This should make trading cards more affordable to those not US based, but there will be a new additional step to take when you have your cards made. More on this when it is ready to go. Rogue One complete CRL re-word of the CRL and possibly new more accurate images and CRL model. This is a big task and if not for one of our first R1TK centurions and his excellent attention to detail, it is almost at the LMO approval stage. basically all the grey areas and things we just didn't know when the CRL was originally written have been fixed and are now accurate. We have also added more accessories to this costume so you can feel comfortable, fully approved to carry Binders T-21 blasters or even wear a Pauldron. As we always do with any major CRL re write, anyone currently working on this costume will follow the existing CRL, unless they chose to wait and go off the updated version when it goes live. This will cover everyone from basic approval up. Thank you to Jeff (TK20980) 11b30b4 for making this happen. The clean up of old irrelevant posts, and restoration of broken Photobucket links and watermarked images has been one of the most time consuming items on the plan list this year. The clean up team have been hard at work pouring over post after post and thread after thread fixing those issues to make the forums more eye appealing and usable to it's fullest potential. We have set up a post so you the members can also help out with the clean up. It's very straight forward, and helps take out some of the hours of searching to find threads that need repair. I would say we are now 65% of the way through this process. Addition of more costume galleries Although not in the original plan, we have been working on adding additional costume galleries and adding more images to some of the existing costumes. Glen "Q" Rhodes has been hard at work re building some of the older ones and adding some new imagery for costumes that didn't have a gallery of their own. Also now complete New OT and FO Photo Checklists for EI and centurion, completed by Justjoseph and the DO team, with some help from yours truly these are now better than ever and include the exact style of photos required. Viewable on the forums or in a downloadable PDF. Take the guess work out of the equation, completely period. What's still to come The DO's are working on a new guide to make it even easier to get your application for EI and centurion right the first go. They are focusing on the top items that applicants get wrong so this will hopefully all but eliminate the same mistakes being made by applicants in the future. Staff position compendium will start in a few months with the notion to make a job description for each staff role clear and understandable. This guide should make it easier for anyone wondering what is entailed in all roles from the top to the bottom. EI Gallery recovery. Monumental task that requires some back end manipulation to attempt to bring it back to it's former glory. Then it needs to be updated with over a years worth of EI submissions. This is going to take a lot of time but we will get a start on it if we can recover the old data. Future merch possibilities. We would love to get a coin run happening later in the year and are floating a few other ideas so stay tuned. More CRL work CRL revamps for TLJ/TroS and Phasma TFA TLJ. these are rather large projects that will take time but we are aiming to fix any of the errors and update with new information and images. RotJ CRL, yep we are finally in discussion regarding a weathered Endor variant to add to this CRL. This cant be done without a CRL Model, so if this interests you please be sure to send the XO's or myself a Pm. Remnant Incinerator Trooper (The Mandalorian) CRL will be under construction later in the year as we currently have a new member Nicker (Nick) building the costume for the CRL to be created. As you can see, we have already accomplished much of what was planned, and have been adding extra items to our list as we progress onward. This keeps the team accountable as we make good on achieving the goals we set out for the detachment, and continue to enrich our members with the best content and experiences possible. Once again I would like to thank all the members who were involved in making many of these plans a possibility. We are also very open to member ideas and input as this is your detachment and TK playground to enjoy. With Unquestioned Loyalty Andrew Franke TK11469 "Sly11" Detachment Leader D.O. Dept. Announcement! Mario (TKSpartan) has been a "Deputy" D.O. for some time now and has done an outstanding job in this capacity. He has gone above and beyond in his duties, so on behalf of Sha Sha, myself and the entire Staff I take great pleasure in announcing that he has been promoted to full-fledged Deployment Officer. Keep doing what you have been doing, brother, and congrats! With Unquestioned Loyalty Joseph Pedigo TK-10963 "justjoseph63" Deployment Officer With Unquestioned Loyalty Sha Sha Chu TK-19233 "shashachu" Deployment Officer With Unquestioned Loyalty Mario E RT TK-48117 "TKSpartan" Deployment Officer 501st Legion 2020 Census has begun, it is the responsibility of all 501st approved members to fill out the census each year which you can find here You must be registered on the main forums to participate in the census:here I didn’t’ troop because of Covid-19 Due to Covid-19 many didn’t get the opportunity to troop during this census period, Legion Command has advised that GCO’s will determine how they want to proceed in regards to a members trooping activity and status, as such check in with your local garrison command. Here's what the charter says about activity definitions: Operations Protocol/Membership An Active Member is defined as a member in good standing who meets the following requirements: Meets all 501st Membership Requirements (i.e. ownership of an approved costume, is over 18 years of age, etc). Has an approved membership record in the 501st Legion Membership Database Maintains active contact with their Garrison CO or GML. Active contact and participation will be confirmed during the annual Legion Census held each year during the month of October. Maintains contact information/membership record in the 501st Legion database either through their Garrison CO or GML. Participates in at least one Garrison or Legion activity per year while wearing an approved 501st costume owned by said member as recorded in the Legion Census. (One year is defined as the period from Legion Census to Legion Census). Examples of an activity include, but are not limited to conventions, charity events, or any activity designated as an official event by a coordinating administrative unit of the Legion. Members who serve in military branches are exempt from activity level requirements if their service renders them unable to meet these requirements. These Minimum Activity Level Requirements should be administered as justly and with as much common sense as possible. A member may retain active status, even if they do not meet all of the requirements listed above at the discretion of their unit Commanding Officer or Legion Command. Filling out the census only takes a few minutes and you also have the opportunity to update your contact information ie: address, email, phone and so on. The LAST EVENT TROOPED is the most important piece of data. Because our trooping year was cut short due to Coronavirus, Legion Command has recommended membership status changes are left to the discretion of the Unit Commander so please check in with your local command prior to filling out your census. NOTE: members who were not able to troop should enter "COVID-19" as their last troop. Any questions you have in regards to the census please contact either your GCO (garrison commanding officer) or your GML (garrison membership liaison) Census form layout With the last forum update the viewable area of the census may not be full page, as such change your page magnification to 75% and you should see the whole page. Note: make sure you tick the box "Is the above information correct?" please tick YES If you have any problems with the logging in please contact the LWM team here: [email protected] So stand up and be counted troopers, you have until 31st October. FISD Standard Shield Patch 5" Residual Refund/Donate Thank you to everyone that supported our most recent Detachment logo 5" shield patch run. After processing all orders and payments we are left with a small residual balance of $359.72 This residual occurred because we hit a price break that was very nominal, so in all transparency this is where we are at with it. To look at the number of patches that were shipped out to members and excluding the 5 mandatory that we must ship to Disney LFL on any merch run over 149 pieces, the total of patches was 1684. Dividing the amount across the residual we get .2cents per patch overcharge. Now as was done with last years shirt run Anthony (redforce) who helmed the patch run is offering you 2 choices. Option 1. Refund of your .2cents per patch you ordered. Option 2. Donate that .2cents to the MAW foundation. As you know, not being able to troop this year has hit many charity organizations hard, so this is an opportunity for us to do a tiny bit more for them. This thread will be open for 30 days, to give everyone a chance to chime in as to what they would like to do, and all you need post in your reply is Refund or Donate. After the 30 day period, we will assume you wish to donate and we will commence the donation process. The Donation receipt will be provided to the Legion command team for transparency, once said donation is made. VICTORY 1000 Yes at long last we have reached the magic 1000 and with this we see the sales thread open for the Victory 1000 11" patch. You can find the sales thread here Just a note of THANKS to all those who have pre-ordered this patch! We are well on our way to our goal (and LIMIT) of 500. but we ask that those who have inquired about totals (including postage) please remit the funds as soon as possible so that the run does not have to be extended indefinitely. The sooner we reach it, the sooner you get your merch! *Note* the run has been extended and will now be closing 10/31/2020 Approved EIB ONLY Merchandise For those of you who are one of the original 1000 to earn your EI badge, in addition to the 11 inch patch that can be purchased we are adding an exclusive piece of merch just for you! It will have blue enamel lettering (as seen below), a silver metal outline and will be approximately 1 1/2 inches in width. You can find the sales thread here *FINAL DAYS* closing 10/18/2020 TRADING CARDS - SERIES 8 Looking for trading cards? series 8 has just begun, information and ordering here Happy Fall days Troopers!Please welcome TK - 19511 Freddy to the Stormtrooper Hall of Fame!https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47884-25-tk-19511-troop-log/?do=findComment&comment=698772 With Unquestioned Loyalty Aaron Gibson TK-99725 "Pyrates" Curator Hall of Fame INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS Are you new to the FISD and wondering what the heck all those abbreviations and strange sounding terms mean? To help you @justjoseph63 has started a list of the most commonly used ones that will give you some insight. If you have ANY questions about a particular term that is not listed or suggestions for new ones please contact Joseph. You can find the list here Pre Approval Forum allows future Troopers the opportunity to submit photos of their completed build to be reviewed by the Staff, Imperial Attaches and others in preparation for forwarding it to their GML for approval. Any and all advice/suggestions given will be specific, constructive, helpful and respectful. Please note that this program will NOT take the place of your local GML, as Detachments are not chartered for costume approval and can not override a GMLs decision, but is instead a peer review program designed to help you look your best and offer guidance and positive feedback. You will have the opportunity to ask questions about your completed armor, weapons (if applicable), accessories, etc. and get accurate information from the experts here at the FISD.. the definitive home of TKs worldwide. For more information on this program, please visit the link here Contributor Awards Don't forget to visit our 3D section when next surfing the FISD forums, there is plenty of useful information to potentially help you on your next TK adventure. You may be a designer wishing to showcase your latest designs or prints, or maybe looking for a file to print your very own Blaster or Laser Axe. You might be feeling may generous and share with our community a new TK related 3D file and maybe win yourself a 3D contributors award so check out the details below and be part of the in house 3D community. Here is a link to the FISD 3D Contributor program. Don't forget to create a troop log here on FISD and get awarded for your adventures The list of accomplished troopers keeps growing, so get on board and register your troops today. Simply start (or update!) your troop log, keep the running total in the title, and post (at least!) a date and name for the official 501st event where you wore your TK! Once you've hit a milestone count, go over to the "Field Exercise Awards -- Post your milestones here" thread to request your profile be updated! Simple, right? Milestone post example: Milestone and Troop Log Title: [100] TK12345 My troop log Date and Event: 8/23/2019 -- Death Star Cooking Class Photo: Pictures are not required, but are highly encouraged! Your picture may end up in the Stormtrooper Hall of Fame Award Recipients September - October No recipients this month The FISD Master Armorer program is an optional, detachment only incentive award to recognize individuals who have directly helped another 501st stormtrooper to achieve Expert Infantry status. Some people spend countless hours helping others, and want to reward their results as well as incentivizing new people to help as well. To register a “win” in the program, the assistance must have provided hands-on help trimming, building, and/or fitting of said armor for the person who was awarded Expert Infantry status. Other program notes: • Helping remotely, giving advice, or taking payment in exchange for help does not account, all work must be voluntary and without expectation of compensation. • The assistance must be for a period of 30 minutes or more. Spending 15 minutes tweaking someone’s fitting or taking photos does not count. • "wins" can be retroactive, e.g. if you helped 5 people in 2017 already, those can count as long as they are fully documented. Award Levels • 5+ “wins”: FISD Armorer Badge • 15+ “wins” FISD Senior Armorer Badge • 25+ “wins” FISD Master Armorer Badge The process • Person applying for the award will create an application thread to track the help they give. • For each “win”, they will list the person they helped achieve Expert Infantry status by copying their EI approval thread. • For each “win”, the person who was helped will validate that this person helped them. You can find the master award area here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/182-fisd-master-armorer-program Are you an approved TK that spends more time on the boards than the average Trooper? Do you enjoy using your knowledge to help out future and existing Troopers? If so, we would like to invite you to join the Imperial Attaché program! Members of the I.A. team are chosen to help out not only those here on the boards, but on a local level as well. Our aim is to have at least one in each and every Garrison, Squad and Outpost in the entire legion to be the eyes and ears of the FISD on a local level. A suggested level of EIB or above is preferred, as part of the duties include assisting those aiming for levels 2 and 3, but is not a requirement. Being active on the boards on a regular basis , welcoming new members and helping out where you can is, though. Some of the benefits: 1. Access to exclusive Attaché merch., including patches, etc. 2. Having the Imperial Attaché title under your name. 3. Being a part of the team that welcomes new and prospective members of the FISD. 4. Being the "go-to" person in your Garrison, Squad or Outpost. 5. Exclusive access to the Attaché HQ area, Imperial Propaganda Machine (newsletter) and merchandise discussions. For a complete list of Imperial Attaches, go here IMPERIAL ATTACHE AWARD Imperial Attaché Award for those attaché's who have gone above and beyond [minimum 1 year of service] You can find a list of prior recipients here Attaché Merchandise For those of you on the Imperial Attaché staff, the official I.A. patches are available You can find the thread here (Imperial Attaché's ONLY) ATTACHE ROCKER For those of you on the Imperial Attaché staff, the official I.A. rockers are now available. You can find the thread here (Imperial Attaché's ONLY) Attaché Ambassador HELLOOOOO Attaches! For those of you who may not be aware, the 11 inch Victory 1000 patch is now ready for pre-order. The run will be closing on Oct. 31st, but the limit we can sell is 500. After that, it will be too late. For those that have already purchased one, THANKS! For those that haven't, the information can be found in the sales thread here. With Unquestioned Loyalty Frank Peranteau TK75139 "Frank75139" Attaché Ambassador http://www.retailhellunderground.com/.a/6a00e54f10a098883401bb08f64447970d-pi Update Your Fire Team Info: Hi all, I've been doing some housekeeping in the approved Fire Team area, mainly to make all the posts in a uniform, easy to see format. The original post were in a different forum theme and those font colors were hard to see in the current theme. Anyway, please check any teams you may be a part of and see if they are still active, members up to date and the logo still works. Please contact me directly if any of your information is incorrect or you need your logo updated. For the full list of Fire Teams here Thanks! With Unquestioned Loyalty Mark Ryner TK4584 "captsafe66 " FISD/Fire Team Director So what exactly are EIB (Expert Infantry Badge) and Centurion levels? These programs were designed for those who choose to take their armor above and beyond the minimum requirements for basic 501st Legion approval. It gives you the chance to show a level of dedication and pride that takes your armor closer to being as "screen accurate" as possible, without as much extra work as you may realize! It also works on giving a better look to the Legion as an entity, and you can bet others will take notice of your hard work. The 501st has a list of detailed requirements for Basic approval, (level 1), EIB, (level 2) and Centurion, (level 3) which can be found here in the Costume Reference Library, (CRL) http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Here are a few of the questions people may be wondering about: 1. "I am a (tall/short/heavy/thin) Trooper. Can I still apply? Of course! These programs are open and encouraged for all sizes of TKs, as long as the costume is correct and meets the guidelines. There are many specific build tutorials to every option, as well as a vast network of fellow TKs on the FISD to help you out and offer suggestions. 2. "How much extra will I have to pay for extra items"? The cost is actually quite reasonable, considering the few extra supplies you will need, which are listed in the requirements area. While it may run you a little more to implement these additions to your costume, they will go a long way to improving accuracy. All needed items can be found for sale on this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/16-ongoing-sales-project-orders/ While blasters are not required for basic approval, for EIB and Centurion levels they are, and may need upgrades (also listed in the CRL). 3. "I haven't even got my kit yet, is it too early to start planning"? Actually, aiming for Centurion is easiest to do right out of the box. 4. "I have my basic TK approval, can I still get in these programs"? In a word... absolutely! 5. "Are there any "perks" to this extra work and cost"? Besides knowing that you have a great looking set of armor, the 501st and FISD believes you should be deservedly recognized for your achievement(s), and allows you to wear the appropriate embroidered "rocker" badge of rank (available for a very minimum cost) on your shirt, helmet bag, etc., as well as rank decals to put on your armor bin. You will also have access to select "challenge coin" runs, receive (free) a cool certificate for your new rank, and have your title posted below your name in your FISD signature. Plus, once you reach these levels, you will have the extra knowledge to help out those who are looking to apply as well. 6. "Is it hard to apply, and what happens then"? After basic approval, all you do is make sure your armor is up to the standards set forth in the CRL, post a thread with the required photos in the appropriate area (see below), and wait a bit for the D.O.s (Deployment Officers) to address it. (Hint: Studying other people's threads before you submit can be a GREAT help). These are also listed on the main page of the FISD site. While waiting for approval, you will get some comments from others who will offer suggestions and constructive advice to help you out. If you should need any changes, the DOs will let you know, so you can adjust accordingly. Don't be dismayed if you do need changes... it's all for your benefit! After you are approved for EIB, then you can submit for Centurion. EIB https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/ Centurion https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/ Photo Checklists To make it easier (and faster) to get you approved, we have updated the Photo Requirement checklists for both OT and FO and included visual examples of what we as D.O.s are looking for in order to move you along at an expedited rate. These can be found here: Expert Infantry: (For all non-FOTK costumes) Centurion: (For all non-FOTK costumes) FOTK: (EI and Centurion) Just remember that the FISD is here to help you every step of the way with whatever other questions you may have, but if you can't seem to find what you are looking for in your research, just ask away here on the forum. This area lists all those who have gone above and beyond basic approval toward screen accuracy. FOR September - October the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment would like to congratulate: Expert Infantry Badge Award: Daniela "Dani" TK72216 EIB 1001 Tudor "Welshtudor75" TK91175 EIB 1002 Ed "Black1705f" TK17050 EIB 1003 Ardeshir "equuspolo" TK42128 EIB 4th Award Lluis "Quinquer" TK15711 EIB 1004 GREAT job on your approval, now on to Level 3! Request your free EIB certificate here --------------------------------------------------------------- Centurion Badge Award: Dave "Helotech" TK98695 Centurion 473 Bryan "Labaki" TK Centurion 474 Sergio "Keko" TK10650 Centurion 475 Outstanding job on reaching Centurion, Troopers! Request your free Centurion certificate here If you see any of these Troopers around your Garrison or Squad, be sure to congratulate them! Newsletter If you have any interesting stories or photos or something you think newsworthy please send them to me via pm With Unquestioned Loyalty Glen "Q" Rhodes TK-85421 "gmrhodes13" PRO Newsletter Staff List 2020 Detachment Leader (DL): Andrew Franke (Sly11) TK11469 Executive Officer (DXO): Tim Waychoff (Dark CMF) Deployment Officer (DCA): Joseph Pedigo (justjoseph63) TK-10963 Deployment Officer: (DCA): ShaSHa (ShaSHaChu) TK-19233 Deployment Officer: (DCA): Mario (TKSpartan) TK-48117 Lead Provost Marshal (DCOG): Steven Sheades (starsaber25) TK-10466 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Chris Pearson (themaninthesuitcase) TK-10911 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Aaron (Bronx) Gibson (Pyrates) TK-99725 Fire Team Relations (PRO): Mark Ryner (Captsafe66) TK-4584 Personnel Officer (PER): AC (Novatie) TK-5597 Content Editor At Large (PRO): Christoph (Danny) Lauber (Ripper_L) TK-55550 Content Editor Awards (PRO): This will be handled by the XO’s Newsletter Publisher (PRO): Glen Rhodes (gmrhodes13) TK-85421 Attaché Ambassador (PRO) Frank Peranteau (Frank75139) TK-75139 Social Media Relations (PRO): Teresa Nuthall (Soulart) TK-41307 Social Media Relations (PRO): Jim Ferrell (Rat) TK-95970 Imperial Propaganda Machine: Brien Edick (Harbinger) TK 92802 Imperial Propaganda Machine: Eric Ho (Hoda) TK 77520 Systems Administrator (DWM): Eric Brager (Darth Aloha) TK-9674 Systems Administrator (DWM): Mathias (Locitus) TK-2959 Detachment Founder (DF): Paul (Daetrin) TK-8020 Replica Section Curators (PRO): Dan Branton (CableGuy) TK-42911 Replica Section Curators (PRO): Daniel Melin (The Swede) TK-99665 Don't Forget We're on Facebook, Twitter & Instagram Facebook: www.facebook.com/whitearmor Facebook Group: 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment (FISD) Official Twitter: www.twitter.com/FISD501st or @FISD501st Instagram: www.instagram.com/fisd501st On behalf of the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Command Staff and the Imperial Propaganda Department http://31.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9yfp014BM1qedb29o1_500.gif

Several people have expressed interest in vacuum forming lenses for their Nico Henderson ROTK helmet. If you printed out the helmet, then making and dyeing the lenses is fairly simple. You will need the following: Vacuum Forming Machine- this seems to be the main problem for most people but for lenses you do not need a 24” x 24” machine or a $1,000.00 investment. Punished Props has a ton of videos on YouTube and in this your tube video they will show you how to make a cheap and small machine for less than $50.00. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gx66mS7U2vY Once you have made a Vacuum Forming Machine, you will need a cheap toaster oven like this one: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-4-Slice-Black-Toaster-Oven-with-Dishwasher-Safe-Rack-Pan-3-Piece/110482692 You will need a cheap electrical hot plate single burner stove like this one. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-Single-Burner-with-Adjustable-Temperature-Control/812501747 You will need an all metal (6 or more quart) stock pot like this one. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Imusa-6-Quart-Blue-Enamel-Stock-Pot-with-Matching-Lid/32802656 You need bailing wire or a few wire clothing hangers and something to cut the wire with. You will need a pack of Jacquard iDye Poly Fabric Dye in Green. Most craft stores have this brand but if you cannot find it in the color you need, you can also use Rit DyeMore liquid in Peacock Green. Make sure its “DyeMore” not the regular Rit Dye liquid. Next, you will need some .04” thick clear PETG plastic sheet. Do not use acrylic, because of the moisture in acrylic, it will have bubbles in it and will be hard to see through. For the PETG, you can get these sheets on Amazon in various sizes, just make sure you get a size that can be cut down to fit your vacuum former. A pack of 10 sheets 12” x12” should cost you $25.00 ish, but if you want a larger supply, its cheaper to buy a full-sized sheet from a plastic supplier. In Metro Atlanta, one supplier is Calsak Plastics. A sheet of 0.04” x 48” x 96” cost me $40.00 ish, and this gives me eight 24” x 24” sheets for my vacuum former. Lastly, you will need: Cooking Thermometer like this one: Or you could use a digital one, but you will need to take repeated temperatures. https://www.walmart.com/ip/ProAccurate-Cooking-Thermometer/22843133 Nitrate gloves Xacto Knife and/ or Box cutter Plastic bucket about the same size as the pot Metal straight edge ruler or yard stick Wooden paint stirring stick Drill bits (1/8”) and a drill/ cordless drill 150 grit and 220 grit sandpaper Filler putty, I used plastic wood filler this stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Plastic-Wood-X-8-oz-All-Purpose-Wood-Filler-00541/206667345 Primer spray paint A release agent such as Smooth-On Ease Release 200 spray or in a pinch you could try an aerosol cooking spray The Nico Henderson helmet files comes with an eye buck file. If I remember correctly, the files only included one eye so you will need to copy and mirror the stl file. I printed these out in PETG with 25% infill and 4 parameters at 0.10 mm Detail. Next, I wet sanded the bucks with 150 grit then 220 grit then I applied a layer of plastic wood filler. In this pic you can see the two sets of eye bucks along with two bucks for my Shoretrooper. Once cured, I lightly dry sanded the bucks with 220 grit. Next, I applied two normal and one final heavy coat of primer (10 minutes between each coat) and let them dry for 3 days. Next, I cut my PETG to size using a straight edge and a box cutter. The PETG comes with a thin plastic cover on both sides of the PETG. Leave this protective cover on during the heating and forming. Only remove it once the lenses are done and ready to be dyed. Next, I laid out my bucks on the Vacuum Former. First pull, the TK lenses came out great but the Shoretrooper lenses not so much. See the webbing between the two Shoretrooper lenses, it comes up into the lens area. I rearranged the bucks. The second pull was successful. Next, I cut out the lenses making sure to not crack them. I also leave some PETG tabs on the lenses, so I hang them. Use the drill and a small bit (1/8”) to drill out holes on the tabs to hang the lenses. Cut up some bailing wire to make a hanger, once you are satisfied, remove the plastic protective cover on both sides of the lenses. When you hang the lenses, make sure they do not touch the bottom of the pot and they stay submerged. Next, I filled the pot and the bucket with enough cold water to cover the lenses. With the lenses out of the water, place it on the burner and bring it to a boil then add the dye and stir till everything is dissolved. Turn the burner off and let the water cool to 130° F. Turn the burner back on to its lowest setting. You want a steady temperature between 130° and 140°. DO NOT GO OVER 150°. The PETG will deform and ruin your lens if you go over 150°. Once you have a steady 135° ish temp, ENSURE you have removed the protective plastic from both sides of the lenses then place the bucks mounted to the bailing wire hanger inside the dye bath for 5 minutes. NOTE- leave the lenses on the hangers throughout the dyeing process. Remove the lenses from the dye bath and rinse in the bucket of cold water, the tint should be light. Again, place the lenses inside the dye bath this time for 10 minutes, then remove and rinse. Lastly, place the lenses inside the dye bath for another 10 minutes, then remove and rinse. This should be dark enough for the TK. Remember the inside of your helmet will be dark, so the lenses do not need to be too dark. If you want them darker, just keep dyeing and rinsing for 10 minutes at a time until you get the desired darkness. Once you are done with the dyeing, remove the lenses from the hanger and use dish soap to wash the lenses. Be careful not to scratch them. Cut them to fit your helmet and install them.

So after building an ebay helmet kit I decided to take the plunge and begin working toward achieving a literally life long goal (since I was around 6-7) of owning stormtrooper armour <-----that's how we spell it here in Canadaland. So here I am: Monday evening with a pile of ABS on my floor. I'm excited and slightly intimidated but not as much as I would have been had I not built a helmet already. I'm going to do my best to build this to centurion level. I still have a lot to learn about the strapping system used on the original suits and I'd like to get as close as possible within reason. You will notice in the photos I have a set of ESB hand guards. That's simply because I didn't want ABS ANH guards as I'm planning to get latex guards and figured it could'nt hurt to have some ESBs lying around for a rainy day. Also don't mind the WW2 collection in the display case.

Hello, my name is Nicolas. Ever since my father showed me Star Wars I've been a fan of Imperial Stormtroopers and always dreamed of wearing the coveted white suit of armor. Two years ago I purchased a Anovos ANH Stunt Helmet and its one of my all time favorite props in my office. I started to look whether or not I should invest in purchasing the rest of the armor. I've done my research, looked at the forums and countless youtube videos. I've decided to pull the trigger and shoot for a Rogue One TK build. I recently purchased 850 Armor Work's R1TK and now I'm just waiting for the BBB Day! I'm currently in the Military, as a Military Police Officer stationed at Fort Bragg. Looking to joining the Carolina Garrison and getting to know the members in it. I finally have the financial stability to pursue my passion of Star Wars. I'm excited to join the community soon!

Azuma, Thanks for finding those items. Typically the designer is very quick to make changes. However, I think I wore them out over the weekend. I made a few requests to change the lower leg armor and then started sending recommendations for their Phase 2 Clone Armor. They made the changes to the leg armor, but then sent me a message that said they were prepping for an event and needed to take a break. I told the designer that I was done bugging them about the TK armor, so I'm not going to hit them up again until they reach out to me about the clone armor. However, if you wanted to request some changes, they may be willing to adjust. For me, I've asked so much of them, I needed to extend some professional courtesy. Also, please check all the files in Akira-Yuming's download section since they have included several updates but didn't take any of the old files down. Some of these have previously been addressed. When I'm done with the build, I'll make a list that has all the corrected files. For the back armor, I'm looking at the pics from other builders. I believe the back "box" is actually in a pretty good location. When you place the armor in your slicing software the shoulder trapezoids will likely be disconnected. I printed mine separately and placed them according to proportional fit. This is also how I determined the placement of the 8mm hole. Jeff (@11b30b4) and @yoshix both covered this in their builds where they actually filled the hole in their armor and moved the shoulder trapezoids/ straps further down closer to the box. Regarding the pill-shaped groove, this is present on Inferno Squad Tie Pilot back armor, but not the ROTK. Also, based on others' pics I'm less concerned with the shape of the trapezoids and more with the fact that the ones on the rear do not have a "rectangular tab protruding from the bottom." Lastly, only the cog sticks out past the box, but it's not noticeable unless you position the armor perfectly. This is easy to simulate in the slicing software, but I can't tell unless I look just right at my back armor. I guess you could slice the cog in Meshmixer before gluing it down; this isn't something I would bug the designer about. Regarding the gaps, I kept adjusting them and then realized that they kind of take care of themselves when you put the armor on. Nothing was more apparent as when I widened the gap on the abdominal armor and then put it on. The gap that I had widened to 4 inches spread which left me looking like the stormtrooper in the picture you posted. Also, it looks like you posted the pic of the leg armor Akira-Yuming made for us bicyclists/ people with +sized calves which makes the "bell-bottom" look a lot smaller. But regarding the gap in the brim, please see the pics below. The left is me squeezing the leg to "most people sizing," which eliminates the gap. For this, I references several other builds which show people with smaller/ bigger gaps depending on their "proportions." For the thickness of the brim, and the gap between the trim piece and rear right brim, I've got some extra plastic if others agree that this needs to be corrected. This reminds me of one thing I may not have hit on too hard during this build thread, but discussed with viewers during the conference last week. Since I'm doing this build thread as a pseudo-tutorial, please bear with me for a few minutes. First of all, one size does not fit all and adjusting armor post-print is extremely difficult. For reference, please see this pic: This is my discard pile thus far, or as I like to call it, 'the pile of lessons' learned.' Of course the helmet was a paint issue and the macrobinoculars are from a clone build, but the rest of the pile represents pieces that I spent a lot of time printing only to find that there was something off. Immediately, my eyes are drawn to the thighs that I asked the community for help on. After I got some feedback, I altered the file myself and re-printed rather than asking the designer to change them. Their original work would probably work for most, but not for me. This is one of the reasons why garrisons host build parties, to help ensure people's armor is "proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size." Next, for those thinking about getting into 3d printing, I go back to the small discussion I had with @TheRascalKing on September 3rd regarding the practicality of 3d printed TK armor. Please look at this pic and determine for yourself; this pile represents approximately 240 hours of printing. However, as I stated then, after I'm done screwing everything up and either fixing it, or requesting that the designer re-work their file, I think we'll have a practical option for people to download. Also discussed was the topic of community feedback, which is critical when going down this road. Take a look at the cod piece right in front of the pile. The original file looked like this: I call this file the "underwear model" or "bikini cod." It was a mix of the OT and ROTK design, but either way it was wrong. I outlined how I chopped the armor on August 30th, but @gmrhodes13 was quick to point out a few more needed changes. This was one of the files I couldn't adjust post-print, so the designer corrected it. Finally, this takes a lot of time. I've already missed my goal date. However, I'm still on track for my original deadline. Adjustments need to be made based off expected and unexpected circumstances. However, I'm also the idiot who's doing two simultaneous builds. To finish up this tutorial/ response, Azuma, please feel free to request changes from Akira-Yuming. They said they're taking a little time off, but based off my previous experience with them, they'll probably still respond much faster than most builders. Also, getting to go out last weekend and see other TKs really helped a lot. Though there were no Rogue Ones, I was able to take note of the form, fit, and functionality of their armor as well as identify items I should look for in my build. I'll put a build update up here in a little bit.

I may try to at least get my photos in! Hoping to do my ESB at the same time so I only have to suit up once. We'll see how it goes. Got a couple little helmet and strapping mods to do between now and then. Thanks Q! I've always been inspired by the sheer number of costumes you have, but also the quality! I always appreciate your input. Yeabuddy! Thank you! I'm a sucker for that kinda thing, I admit. Is the gold frame 5 or 6...? Thanks Joseph! So, summarizing my work list as I like to do... Dressing Issues to watch for: 1. Had my thighs hiked up a bit too high or my ab slipped, but mind the gap between ab/posterior and thigh tops 2. Posterior plate was sticking out... I knew this one was coming again and will keep watching for it 3. Shin rear cover strip was coming undone a tiny bit 4. Ensure drop boxes are aligned Modifications to make: 1. Helmet - Repaint vocoder with semi-gloss 2. Helmet - Repaint interior of mic tip and screen(?!) black - why y'all lookin so close at my "small projections located on the center of the interior used to disperse and dispense fluids in controlled amounts over a particular area?" ;P 3. Helmet - Remove a little more paint from the center tooth 4. Blaster - Remove silver weathering from grip I can think I can knock this stuff out shortly, so be on the lookout! I appreciate you guys!

Hi trooper, The gaps at the moment are caused by the alignment of the faceplate. You’ll want to carefully remove the rivets and experiment with magnets first to get it aligned correctly. Notice below on an original helmet how the yellow line flows from back to faceplate. At the moment, yours is very offset. This is the primary cause of the gaps. Do you have photos from around 6 feet back (always the best distance to take photos from) from all angles? Like this? This is my own TM lid but it gives an idea of the ideal alignment. :-)

Hello and welcome aboard, great to hear you have been doing your research, we have some great build threads for R1 troopers and also just added some more images to the R1 gallery sections which you will find here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/28-r1-tk-reference/ Looking forward to seeing those BBB photos and progress of your build, good luck

Using that term was easier than saying "the small projections located on the center of the interior used to disperse and dispense fluids in controlled amounts over a particular area".

It's been a while since I've seen a TE build, good luck with your progress Avery

Looking forward to seeing the progress

This should be pinned!!!! Thank you! This has been bugging me for years!

Okay, I trimmed down the knee a little, and it feels better (not completely away from the knee, but the calf is too fitted to get it forward completely with padding). I will see how it goes with some walking once I have it all on: Neck seal: I bought a nice neck seal from Imperial Boots, the ribbed section is soft leather. It looked good, but was a little loose on my neck, causing it to bow out on the sides a little. The easy fix was to hand-sew a second 1" strip of velcro next to the existing one, allowing it to close tighter. Now it fits better, yet still soft enough to easily move my head around without it feeling tight: I used A.J.'s "hinge closure" method for the left side of the ab. I love learning new tricks, and clamping a block of wood behind the closure and drilling through it in-place was a great solution (main holes were pre-drilled, and then taped the two sides together lined up, drilling was just through the "hinge"). He used some caps to cover his split rivets (to keep them from possibly catching on the under suit, they are quite sharp). I didn't have those, but just did a quick sanding pass with a Dremel, and then squeezed a little white E-6000 around those sharp corners to give them a little rubbery cover: I am getting closer to done, hopefully by Halloween to attend my little 6-year-old as Vader. Here is what is done on the build: - Helmet [all but Hovi tips and sound system] - Thighs and thigh strapping - Shins - Ab section - Butt and Cod - Belt - Neck seal - Biceps - Forearms - Hand-painted button plates ...and lots of partially complete bits on the rest Total: 45 hours so far Left to do: - helmet interior electronics (UKSwrath speaker system, SHA environmental system), USB fans I am throwing together - Thermal Detonator - Gloves and hand plates (both styles, regular with Nomex, and flexible with chem gloves for Centurion) - Mount Shoulder bridges and elastic - Shoulder bells - Mount Holster - Glue button plates - Belt Boxes mounted - Arm strapping - Reinforce inside edges and corners (just a few places I see cracks on the originals, but open to suggestions from people as to where) - Fill and sand, and glue, and build my blaster (ImperialArms3D new V3 E-11 blaster kit) - Final fitting and adjustments

Alight I'm jumping in head first: with the helmet I'm planning to make an ANH HDPE helmet replica similar to what CableGuy did here: I've started trimming and, like on my first helmet, I've gone with the rough "box cutter" eye shapes seen on screen used helmets like the "move along" trooper seen here And here is my first attempt at replicating that helmet a few months ago I haven't tried to replicate any particular helmet since this is my trooper. I simply did it in the same mindset of "lets get these helmets made quickly so they can be on set for this weird space movie" that I'm sure the workers at SDS had in 1976. of course not all original helmets are the same and having nice completely cut out eyes is not innacurate at all. Here is another original ANH helmet that was on auction at propstore this year. It has fully cut out eyes. I am currently putting together a trooperbay order for the rest of what I need to complete this helmet so stay tuned

I'm not entirely sure, sorry. My guess is that having 3 layers allows you to put some extra reinforcement in there. I wouldn't use the holster with just the 3D printed layers alone. I can only imagine someone bumping against you and the blaster snapping off of the holster... and it would be difficult to even notice it was snapped off at all if your helmet is on. Having some metal installed in the bracket adds a bit of strength so that this kind of scenario won't be as likely to happen. This is the image I used for reference. For length, I don't remember exactly what I used, sorry! I had a pack of assorted metric screws and kind of tried out different lengths. They weren't the security torx ones because I couldn't find them in the size I needed. Remember that my build was scaled down, so the length would be different for you anyhow. The screws I used exited the inside of the thigh armor just a little bit... just enough so I could get some e6000 on them to make sure they wouldn't go anywhere and also to cover the ends to prevent scratches. I used the 7mm M3 bearings found here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW18RQY/ I think I kind of eyeballed things for size. I don't know if you would need to go with a thicker bearing due to scaling, though. Maybe someone else who has built a full-sized holster bracket could chime in here? @ukswrath?

Definitely getting a snap press. I re-printed the right thigh, with the new holster mount. The holster assembly has two versions, one you print in 3 layers, another that is a complete unit. What benefit, other than limiting overhangs is there for the 3 layer version? also, for the screws, I saw a post on here regarding which screws to use, my question is, what lenght did you use, and is the M3 ball bearing an M3x7x3 bearing? Just want to verify before ordering.

Here is how you can resize the file size on Mac Computers. 1) Open the picture in Preview 2) Select File on top bar 3) Select Export... 4) Move Quality Slider until file size is appropriate 5) Then Save! I hope this helps.

Hi Nicolas, welcome to FISD and glad to read you're on the way of make a dream come true!! Looking forward for your BBB day photos and build thread . Cheers

Congratulations trooper

Cool Justin, another star in your records!!!

Hi Justin, and thank you for yet ANOTHER awesome looking application for EI! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry! On behalf of the DO team and myself, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Always a pleasure seeing your latest accomplishment, brother, and this is no exception! Just a few items here to mention, no biggie, so let's get started! The paint on your vocoder looks to have a flat finish as seen on ROTJ buckets. As seen in the Hero reference image below, it definitely has a sheen to it, as also seen on the Stunt references shown. We feel a coat of semi-gloss (or even satin) would really transform the look of it, and it's a SUPER easy fix! Hero reference image Stunt reference image I know you mentioned this armor is ready for "retirement", but one of these days I am going to convince you to trim down those thigh tops just a bit.. Adjusting the strapping should stop the posterior plate from over-riding the kidney. In your rear shot, the alignment is spot on (above photo-right side) but for some reason on the side view it overlaps. Reference images Just a minor dressing issue here... your right cover strip should match that perfect one on your left. Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. This one may be a bit of a challenge, but I have complete confidence that you can nail it. Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL (yet) *** the "nipples" inside your Hovi tips are the correct white, but for Hero the rest of the interior needs to be black. While you have the paint out, we also suggest hitting the screen as well. *** Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Reference images You removed the paint from the bottom of the teeth ask requested (THANKS) but we are asking that you take it just a tiny bit farther on the center tooth. A small item I know, but it's those tiny details that make for a great looking trooper! As you know, the outside edges of the drop boxes needs to align with the outside edge of the ABS belt. Another easy fix with a few dabs of E-6000 behind the straps! Reference images As stated in the CRL, the grips can not have any weathering. The original grips were made of Bakelite (a type of plastic) so no "metal" should be seen. A quick coat of black spray-paint should do the trick. I would suggest a semi-gloss finish. Reference images And that's it, my friend. Just a few more steps and we can add that FOURTH Centurion award to your list of accomplishments!!

Thanks for the direction - I knew it was an old post - but lots of sources now! Many thanks again - grateful ex-pat NZer.

Ok, so for my own knowledge I have a few questions and I think they should be up for everyone else who may be interested in seeing. Also, let me state this, as many tend to get frustrated. This is not that. In fact quite the opposite. This is just for more understanding in the build process for future builders. I build in reverse. I don't build for basic and work up. I build for Centurion and submit to basic and work my way up that way. So below I have a few pictures for references. Now having said that I need to state the following two things first. 1: I agree that we need to set a standard that we all try to meet. Fully agree in this and I think the FISD CRL is AWESOME and our DO's are incredible. Thank you for all of your knowledge and experience, guidance and encouragement. So that is first and foremost for me to state. but 2: Anyone who knows empire strikes back can see that the stormtroopers are a train wreck at times if not in almost every scene. Biceps spun around, Shoulder bells falling down, Shins completing sealed in white Duct Tape, posterior plates inside the rear of the thigh armor, belts off set, abdomen armor riding low and over the breastplate, etc etc etc. So I am curious as to what tolerances there might be in the standards. We know in ANH they have issues as well, but ESB has a different set of issues. So What I thought would be considered good to follow is the standard set in the CRL. As I build and I recommend others in their builds, is to build with Centurion or at the very least EIB standards in mind. It is much more difficult to do Basic to EIB to Centurion with respect to certain parts, such as belts or the 6 side rivets. Once the snaps or holes are punched they are difficult fixes for most people. Photo References for Discussion. In this first picture we clearly see a low brow helmet in the stunt style. I like this, that is why my helmet has a lower brow. That same trooper has his belt at an angle along with the trooper second from the left. Also, if he straightens his hand out we can see that his hand plate will ride close to the forearm guards like the two troopers on the left. More like traditional medieval hand plates. Also the angle on the trooper to the rights drop box. It is also hanging behind his belt. Also the low brow hero helmet, I am curios if that helmet has bubble lenses and would it be approved with bubble lenses. Here is an example of a trooper that has his belt hanging practically off and nevermind the breastplate falling behind the abdomen armor this is my favorite trooper in the movie. In this one you can clearly see that his belt is cover more than half of both bottom buttons which puts his belt at a slight angle. I assumed this was the standard on the ESB Tk's Again we see another example of a belt riding exactly along both button lines which would place that belt at an angle. and this particular trooper has double dimpled bicep guards. And here is an example that has multiple troopers with their biceps riding over their shoulder bells and a the low brow trooper in back with his belt considerably dropped and at an angle. But more importantly, the troopers have different levels of gaps in their thighs. so the two troopers in the front are a good example. I only bring these up as examples that ofcourse show costume anomalies, but at the same time to ask perhaps we need to make it clear either in the CRL or when the FISD process begins for EIB and Centurion approvals a specific tolerance in certain things. I only say this because some things are a bit difficult to repair or adjust after a build has been done. I have not yet had too much a serious issue with that. But If you build with centurion standards in mind, in reverse, then it should be good to go as you step through the processes. If I read in the CRL that the belt shall ride up to the line of the buttons or cover some of the button and build to that, then it is difficult to perhaps make that adjustment in the belt again. Furthermore, let me say this, I ask this in all politeness and in hopes of being able to mentor more clearly other builds with other people. Because I have heard quite a few discussions in person regarding belt placement. For me, the CRL has set the standard. So I am curious why there may be so many opinions on it. Thank you for reading this.

Hi Erik. This is a tall order to find the correct setup for a functioning scope. I own several real scopes that I use to cast resin copies. I tried many times to find some alternative ways to transplant existing scope setups inside the M38 or M19 replica scopes but found it difficult to say the least. I will never say impossible as I know there are people out there with great ideas and knowledge to make it work somehow. I was able to buy the remaining stock of original prisms and prism cells for the M38s and M19s. Even with those prisms I could not get the correct lenses to make the scope work correctly. These were very precisely made back in the day. Having custom lenses and prisms made would cost me my kidney or kidneys so that idea went out the door quickly. But with all that said, I would keep testing various lenses and see if you can get the image to invert as you hope. Maybe someone with optic expertise can help figure out a good but cheap way to make this happen. Check out my resin scope kits on my FB page https://www.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan . These are exact copies of the original scopes inside and out so you could try and replicate the original lens/prism setup as closely as possible.

Hi Nicholas! Great to have you here. R1 troopers are very cool. I built a crystal patrol backpack a while back so I definitely hope to get some R1 armor someday to complete the package. Looking forward to seeing your build when you get the BBB. Interested to hear your thoughts on the 850 armor works armor when you get a chance to review it. Best of luck!

Appreciate it Glen, as always. Thank you.

Great work, just watch your coverstrip alignment next time you kit up

Weathering added to the helmet

Ok, so since the reference image is here in the comments, I replaced the upper images with the proper ones I re-shot today. Thank you for making note of that, The issues has been corrected. I corrected up top because I want the submissions photos before review to be the ones I want to be seen. Thank you.

Thanks Glen. Big publication this one, with plenty to read Thank you to all who contributed.

Very nice

Great work Jeff, thank you for sharing your process.

The snaps could be for a few locations. Shoulder Bell to shoulder bridge snap attachment perhaps. Do you have an image of the type of snap as it may be the giveaway to where it's meant to go.

While Kyle worked on his helmet, I vacuum formed and dyed some lenses for him. I made a tutorial on how I did this here:

So I bought the Mattel Baby Yoda 11" plush toy. I was having a bit of a rough day so I was cuddling him while working at the computer (WFH). ...and completely forgot that I was still holding him while on video calls on Zoom and Microsoft Teams. In fact, I only realized when I was called out during an OPS meeting when the PM pointed out that I should change my zoom background, which was redundent because it was also baby yoda. siiiiigh. Like, no one even thought it was remarkable anymore.

Lluis Quinquer TK 15711 EIB A4 Mario - Tk Spartan Thank you!!! De nada! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/15711-eib.png

Go to this thread, sir. It will get you started on your way to joining the ranks of the Imperial Attache Staff! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/15252-fisd-attaché-program/

Following up on my shin armor, I added the 25mm cover strips once it was all finished. Because the seam needs to click flush, the excess E-6000 glue needs to be removed from the inside along the cover strip (by lightly cutting with a blade, and then scraping and sometimes pulling it off in long, glorious strips when it works). So far, especially with my snap failsafe, they seem very secure. I had to pad the front of the inside to try and push that sniper plate further out from my knee, and so that top magnet is more strained and needs the snap on that side to maintain closure:

My tricky repair after a trimming mistake: I was following along with my notes on various measurements, but made the mistake of not double-checking against the actual connections. On my lower thigh ammo strap, I checked one side, and then cut both to sides to the same length. The trouble is, even though it is not required on the CRL, the back corner mounts on the ammo strap should end up the same distance from the back "corners" on the thigh armor (the green line pictured below). Also not required, but aesthetically important to me, was to have the center box aligned with the front cover strip on the thigh. My options were to order a replacement, or to try a tricky repair, but cutting the inside edge square, and fuzing a new piece to extend it to the correct length: Once I had the pieces prepped, I also cut a "backer" piece of thinner styrene (from a parking sign) to go behind the seam (not full width, so it won't be seen from the top), and sanded all surfaces with coarse sandpaper. I did a quick test of some scrap to make sure how best to apply pressure during the bond, and then I used this "ABS and Styrene cement" for the initial edge bond. This cement is the consistency of water, but it temporarily "melts" the contact areas you brush it on, and then when pressed together, it "welds" those two soft areas. So I first brushed it on the edges, pressed them until they were clearly joining, and then once partially cured an hour (full cure reached at 24 hours), I used that same cement to bond the backer plate to the join behind the seam. Once that was cured a few hours, I then spread a line of ABS sludge to the top of the seam. Let it all cure overnight. I then sanded the sludge down flat, going up to wet sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper, and then the polished to a shine with Novus 2 and Novus 1 polish. Everything seemed good. Until I tried to flex it onto the thigh for a test fit. The seam cracked right where it needed to bend around the corner (circled in red): So. I emailed AM for a replacement, because my work was for nothing. I was beaten. Or was I? Maybe I could save it, so I could at least have it finished and swap it out later? The seam failed because of the extreme tension there, it was basically internally weaker than the surrounding plastic, so it was breaking like a score and break. My issues probably stemmed from my attempting to weld it flat, when it should be welded in a curve. I figured there was no harm in one more attempt, so I solved the tension first. I used a heat gun and gently bend the plastic to one side following the thigh's corner, to relieve the tension on my seam. Then, I once again brushed the seam with the cement, and then laid a line of ABS sludge into the now more angled gap, and let it fully cure over night. Then sanded and polished that seam again, and tried it out. It worked! There is a slight seam imperfection in the shine when you look for it, but being on the inside of the thigh behind the last box, it may never be noticed. I drilled my holes and mounted it with two-piece rivets (paint to come), and it seems to work well!

Trim line added Same as FOTK