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Bullseye

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About Bullseye

  • Rank
    Corporal

Standard Info

  • Name
    Dave
  • 501st Unit
    Midwest Garrison

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  1. Thanks again everyone. I’ve spent the last few days working on the biceps and shoulder bells so as to come back to the back and chest plates fresh. I took another look at them last night and I finally figured out why the angles don’t look correct. The left side of the plate is longer than the right. The back plate has been driving me crazy, and at least now I know why. Is is this something I should try to fix or say the hell with it and just use it as cut at this point? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  2. Thanks Tony. Looks like I’m close on those figures and this TK is a bumpy ANH version, so I’ll wager it’s pretty close to the RS Props version. It’s good to have some perspective on the dimensions.
  3. Thanks Aaron. I took a series of photos photos that made me more concerned I may be comically oversized to be a TK. The back plate looks tiny when I hold it up, but I’m probably thinking too much. Anyway, here are the photos for the chest plate and then the back plate. I put a ruler in there so that people can quantify the size difference. Chest Plate The vertical on the right is roughly 4 inches The vertical here is almost 4.5 inches Back plate Here I just took a photo of the internal side of the back plate. I drew a pencil line on what believe to be the mold line. It’s not too clear. I think the back plate issue is at the pencil lines but I’m not sure. All thoughts are welcome.
  4. Does anyone have/know the dimensions for the bottom side aspects of ANH TK chest and back plates? Specifically the vertical aspects of the chest and back plate below the cut for your arms. How long in inches or mm should the vertical straight aspect be? You can can see what I’m talking about at the bottom right of the armor in this screen grab. My build stalled when I started getting nervous that I’d cut too much under arm on the back and front plates. After SWCC I’m less spastic about it being perfect and simply want to get my armor built as best, and correctly, as I can. Want to to be able mark the vertical height of the flat aspect on the chest and back plates, and then cut the arm semi-oval area to blend to the proper height. There were not well defined trim marks on this armor, so I need to guesstimate. Secondarily, my shoulder bells are huge and I need to finish cutting them down. Is there a recommended length from the top of the bell ridge to the bottom edge I should be going for or is it dependent on individual size and preference? If it helps, I’m a trim 6’4” with long arms. Thanks in advance everyone. Bullseye
  5. My thanks to everyone for their input. I ended up separating the forearms and buying a lot more clamps and magnets. As every suggested I popped out the internal strips and reset them on one side of the forearm, glued them down and then clamped the hell out of them. Behold! I probably could’ve put another clamp in there somewhere but that might be overkill..... oh wait... After the glue set I went back to trying to connect the two halves, one edge at a time. To assist I purchased a set of flat rectangle magnets to help flatten the ridge. Then, after the rectangles we’re down I put my additional magnets on top and below to help solidify the pressure, and eliminate any potential ridge. We’ll see tonight how they turned out. I’ll try to rejoin the second edge to tonight. I’ll glue, tape, clamp, magnet the hell out of it. Wish me luck!
  6. Welp, more “progress”. My efforts to prepare my forearms have continued and I’ve actually been semi-successful at getting them to finally match up. I’ve managed to shim the interior of the forearms and E6000 them together. The problem I’m having is there’s still a bit of a ridge where the parts meet. I’m thinking I’m going to need to boil my cover strips (make them soft) to get them to sit right. I’ve tried to get the abs to sit flat (clamps, magnets, tape, etc.) but no luck. So I’m stuck with the ridge. Anyone have any better ideas? (Also, I’m either going to put a lot of E6000 in the gap or make an ABS slurry to fill the gap before placing the cover strip). Thanks in advance everyone.
  7. Sadly my attempts to shim did not work out as well as I’d have liked.
  8. Bourbon also helps. EH Taylor barrel proof (2018 release) was enjoyed while dremeling the forearms.
  9. Right forearm: More tomorrow. Hopefully. DA Props. I’m still figuring out how screwy these original based molds were. Being 6’3” means they were not made for me.
  10. After a long couple of days, some progress on the forearms. I initially, and foolishly, cut the left forearms to an 18mm combined width thinking I could whittle it down from there. Not a good idea. Despite being a wiry man, my forearms were way too thick at the elbow for that width and I couldn’t get my hand into the hand gap. The result was my having to plastic fuse the trimmed pieces back onto the forearm. You’ll see the obvious fuse lines. One thing that was very frustrating, and you’ll see this in my cut lines, was that having a straight edge was only marginally useful the way I apparently applied it. I think part of it was trying to use the straight edge while the original mold base curves were still attached. As I cut those off and began to remeasure, things got better, but not perfect. After the above I took a more “measured” (har har) approach to the right forearm. I whittled the right forearm slowly until it fit my hand and elbow. It needs a little extra trimming the mesh up, but it’s close enough I think I can put a scrap strip underneath for support. I know im supposed to do a 15mm cover strip on both sides. Will I get dinged for the edges not matching the cover strip? My thanks in advance for everyone’s help and thoughts. Left arm: Here’s the obvious trim fusing: Right arm to follow.
  11. A friend provided me with some build guides for various unmarked-no line kits and that’s been invaluable. I’ll be posting cuts in the next few days.
  12. I'm putting together my TK after almost a year since purchasing it. Unfortunately some parts warped a bit and I'm having a difficult time figuring out where to make my cuts. My armor set doesn't have clearly defined lines for the cuts, so I've got to eyeball them. Any help people can provide would be greatly appreciated. I'll start with the bicep pieces. Unfortunately the heat in the garage warped the thumbprint bicep. I've heard that boiling water works as does a heat gun (I've got a two stage heat gun that has a mild and hot setting). Not sure what to do, so I thought I'd ask y'all. Thanks in advance everyone, Bullseye Thumbprint Bicep: Other Bicep:
  13. More progress. After a couple of nights off, I managed to find time to tackle the issue of the helmet base, as well as to start the paint process for the traps and tears. Pretty happy with the results. More to follow.
  14. A little more progress last night. Ears are on. Front side looks alright. back side.... not so much. Had some issues with the bottom of the bucket not lining up on the right side due to the shorter face plate sides. Unfortunately, the brow is so high that the back of the bucket is too low, and that's giving me issues. As a result the right side ear base isn't sitting correctly. I can, and need, to cut the base of the bucket but I'm a little gun-shy right now. With the screw holes in and the bucket secured on the base, I can remove the ears and do the necessary dirty work to fix the back end of the bucket and then finish the sanding of the ears. (I'm also planning on finishing the teeth with little files, but that's lower on the priority list right now). At least that's my plan. If people think this is a lost cause, let me know. Or if I need to go Sandy, let me know that too....
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