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About Bullseye

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  • 501st Unit
    Midwest Garrison

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  1. I’ve been through the How-To section and I’m having trouble finding a link for instructions on the DIY fabric selection for the Ammo Belt. There are descriptions for EU and British builds, but I’m not sure where and what to purchase stateside to get this done. JoAnne fabrics? Amazon? What is the best route to go. And when I’m there, what should I buy and how much? Do I need to line the fabric on the interior before sewing it shucks for stability? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
  2. More forearms. After a little bit of time off off for the July holiday and some work obligations I was able to apply the cover strips to the forearms and cut/sand off the last of the return edge on the front and back. Based on the reference photos I think these look in compliance for L2/L3. Thoughts or comments? (Just FYI, I cut/sanded off the return edge overhang just to the right of the raised bump on the top of the forearm right after this photo.) I need to do some clean up and remove the excess E6000, but these things drove me crazy so I’m glad to be near the finish line on them. Moving on to the next steps a couple of questions: 1) do I need any return edge on the bottom on the biceps? What’s required for L2/L3? 2) 3-5mm of return edge on the shoulder bells, correct? Same question for L2/L3. Had an interesting adventure with the shins that I’ll share soon. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
  3. Good luck with the build. I’m in year 2 of mine. It’s daunting but a lot of fun. Looking at at your helmet build it might be helpful to take a look at my build thread for the helmet. Basically so you can learn from my mistakes. Take your time with the helmet, but visualize and know what you want you want it to look like. If you want a low brow, put the bucket on the face plate and use painters tape to secure it so you can get a feel for where everything should be. You can measure from there and start to put everything together. Just know you’re going to make mistakes, but that’s part of the process. You can fix just about anything, so don’t let perfection grind you to a halt (it did for me for about a year). Have fun with it and good luck!
  4. Forearms are done. At least I think so. Before I put the cover strips on I have two questions: 1) how far up do the cover strips go? To the angle, past the angle? HELP! (Photos below) 2) how much more return edge at the wrists do I need to sand out? (Photos below) To the first question, here are the top elbow sides of the left and then right of the forearms: Left Right Trying to figure out how far the strips reach toward the elbow, over or up to the angles above. Also, are the angles cut correctly for the armor? Second Question: Have I cut out sufficient return edge at the wrists for EIB or do I need to sand out more? Right: Left: Not it sure if I need to sand out the “bump” on the top of the forearm or not. Thanks in advance everyone.
  5. Is there more info on the dimensions of the bells? I’m having a tough time with figuring out how to trim mine on my build. There are no trim lines on my kit, so I’m looking for whatever addition info there is on them before trimming. (Sorry to lurk in this build thread, but I’ve been looking for more information on this for a while)
  6. I was hoping you’d mention primer! I’ve got that from my e11 rubies conversion project.
  7. Forgot to ask, what color paint do I need for the TD? In looking at other TDS and discussing with other DA Props kit holders, I need to paint the pipe. I just have no idea what color to use. I’m in the states and can access a Home Depot, Lowe’s, or Ace pretty easily.
  8. The thermal detonator: Question time. First, how far from the short end of the TD should the edge be? Specifically, hey nubbins to the edge? I looked at a couple of builds and here’s where I landed: You can see the pencil mark. From there to the other end is 115mm. Second question, do I need to paint this pipe for the TD? Thanks all.
  9. Biceps and forearms: after a a couple of busy weeks I was able to make some progress on the armor. The biceps were tricky, but I think they’re in reasonable shape. Out of the box, they’re a little warped. They’re more oval than conical and will require a water bath at some point to revise the shape. Here’s how they came out: The left was more warped than right, so that’s made trimming a bit difficult. I got the sides to fit after trimming. The edges were still digging into my arm at fitting, but I was planning on sanding them down to flat so it didn’t worry me much. I prepped the biceps with internal cover strips and clapped them down after gluing with E6000. Those strips ain’t going nowhere. Pretty happy with the results so far: the gap at the bottom here is intentional, I needed more space for my arm to flex. Plus this will be the arm pit side of the right bicep so it’ll be hard to notice. I’m gluing down the opposite sides tonight. If all goes well I’ll be cutting cover strips for these tomorrow. There’s still some return edge I want to sand off, but it’s nothing the should stop the progress for now. Once the cover strips are on and the E6000 has set, I’ll give the biceps the boiling water bath in an attempt to take care of the oval nature of the abs. Thermal detonator next.
  10. It’s been a while since I posted an update on my TK build. Due to work and family obligations (as well as some build issues it took me a while to figure out) I put my TK aside until I was able to take it back up again. Thankfully, there is progress to report, including a complete bucket to show off. After my initial round of painting the traps I went to work on the mic tips and cleaning up the bottom of the bucket. Maybe I got lucky, but the mic tips were one of the easier aspects of the build and an aspect I’m pretty proud of. The traps came out pretty well too. I also cut off the excess abs from the bottom of the bucket and got a fairly clean back to helmet. It’s a little hard to see from the photos, but the s-lining went on great and balanced the whole thing. With confidence restored, I went to work finishing the bucket. Without an easily available stencil, I applied the cheek stripes via sticker set. I forgot to take photos of the install of the lens, but that probably because it wasn’t a pretty install. Due to my overzealousness with the Dremel, I’d taken a little more off the internal eye socket than I wanted. So the prospect of the lens sitting flat was out the window. Improvising, I cut small pieces of Velcro and glued the connected Velcro to the interior bucket around the eyes. Then I dabbed some glue to back of the connect Velcro and carefully placed the lens on top. Shockingly, it worked! The end result ended up making me very happy. At this point the bucket is basically display only. There are minor repairs I want to do and bigger ones I need to do. I’ve got mesh for the frown I’m going to reinstall inside. I still need to pop in a hard hat liner (I’ve got a sizable noggin), paint the inside of the bucket black (pro tip: do this BEFORE YOU ASSEMBLE THE BUCKET), and figure out a fan/mic/electronics assembly to make it functional for trooping. All things considered, especially how panicked I was when I realized I’d over trimmed, this turned out really well. Next post I’ll get into my misadventures in trimming the kit. Basically it’s the five stages of grief applied to expensive ABS. I’m past acceptance at this point and putting together the biceps and the forearms. Onward!
  11. Found the hot water bath method. Its here err in case anyone needs it:
  12. One thing to mention that I haven’t seen in a lot of builds, 100 grit sandpaper is the most helpful thing I’ve found in restarting this build. Because my kit didn’t come with trim lines, this is all done with measuring and guess work (educated guesses, but let’s be honest here). The result has been a lot of uneven butt joints and raw edges either from snips, blades, or Dremeling. The 100 grit (on the edge only) has helped me get the butt joints flat, and allowed me to make some honest to goodness progress. I highly recommend it if you’re building a kit without trim lines. It’ll keep you sane when your best trimming efforts come out looking like crocodile teeth.
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