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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by 11b30b4

  1. Sly11, I agree a nice comparison of boots would be helpful. I wear a US size 10 regular. I already have IB boots so feel free to buy me a set of the Crow Props and ship them to me and I will be more than happy to do the comparison.
  2. TB-7076, sorry it has taken me so long to reply. I did not have notifications set up on this thread. IMHO, the EF glove is the better glove. The stitching and the materials used on the EF glove do not wear as quickly as the IB gloves do. As for the lining, I have not had an issue with the lining in the EF glove and I live in the Southern United States. DragonCon parade is in late august where we normally see 90 degrees F with 100% humidity and the glove are not an issue. The lining is slightly shaggy but it is not a faux fur, it just looks that way in the pics. Ultimately, the glove cost about the same from each vender and will only last for a few years depending on how often you troop and how you take care of them. More than likely you will need to replace them at some point so I recommend you do as I did and buy one set from one vender and when you need to replace them, try the other vendor. Good luck.
  3. CountCunning, I added you to the roster please start a build thread and I will link it. TheRascalKing, Congratulations on the EIB, roster updated.
  4. Where I was going with Anthology Stormtrooper was that all shinny white trooper in both Rogue One and Solos as well as any shinny trooper in the Mandalorian and other new series should all fall under the Anthology Stormtrooper as long as the armor is all the same style/ design. For the mismatched armor types and the dirty troopers should fall under a new CRL called Remnant Stormtrooper. This CRL will be hard to nail down since there are several variations of mismatched armor. Also keep in mind that just because it appeared in a film or show, we should not always look to incorporate it. An example of this is the unmodified Black Series helmets on pikes in season one of the Mandalorian as well as the helmets scattered in Death Star 2 in the last film. Or another way to look at this would be to classify all newer Stormtroopers as Anthology similar to how was call the first three films Original trilogy and withing this Anthology classification we have specific CRLs for each film/ show if they are different. I am less concerned with clean vs dirty than I am with different armor design/ ensemble. Just my 2 cents
  5. Wow, great job researching this. I also suspect that the modifications were made to belts for stunt scenes just like the omission of the Thermal Detonator on most of the stunt TKs in the fight on Jedha. Although, I believe the intention of the designers was to have the belt protrude past the ammo boxes by 1/8”, I would not be opposed to removing this requirement or changing the wording to allow for more flexibility give these references. Another possibility would be to develop a stunt class of the ROTK like ANH and no, I will not be writing that CRL but I am happy to assist anyone wishing to tackle that task.
  6. I will add my thoughts to this discussion. First, I have always believed that the Rogue One TK should have been named the Anthology TK. When we first got wind of Rogue One it was promoted as a Star Wars Anthology. Later it changed to A Star Wars Story, but the term Anthology seems most correct. From Merriam-Webster anthology noun an·thol·o·gy | \ an-ˈthä-lə-jē \ plural anthologies Definition of anthology 1: a collection of selected literary pieces or passages or works of art or music //an anthology of American poetry 2: ASSORTMENT //… an anthology of threadbare clichés of … bistro cuisine … — Jay Jacobs First Known Use of anthology 1624, in the meaning defined at sense 1 History and Etymology for anthology borrowed from French & New Latin; French anthologie, going back to Middle French, borrowed from New Latin anthologia, borrowed from Greek anthología "gathering of flowers," from anthológos "flower-gathering" (from antho- ANTHO- + -logos, nominal ablaut derivative of légein "to gather, collect") + -ia -IA entry 1 — more at LEGEND NOTE: The sense "collection of extracts" is found earlier in the parallel formation anthológion, attested in Byzantine Greek. Because Rogue One and Solo are stories that take place in the Star Wars universe but are not part of the traditional saga films, they are by definition, anthologies. Even if LFL does not use this term, it is correct and should be what we call all costumes from these films. Second, references: Yes, screen captures are a solid reference; however, I also believe “Cannon” reference material such as the Visual Guides should carry the same weight as references. more often than not, the images are of higher quality and are staged to capture more detail. In the case of the Rogue One Ultimate Visual Guide, the author Pablo Hidalgo and information he provides should be considered gospel. Afterall: “After The Walt Disney Company acquired Lucasfilm, Hidalgo was assigned a job within the still newly formed Lucasfilm Story Group, a small group of Star Wars experts whose main purpose is to create and maintain one cohesive canon, thereby eliminating the previous hierarchical canon. Hidalgo is currently a creative executive in story development at Lucasfilm, as well as one of the members of the Intellectual Property Development Group. He is well known for writing the reference books that accompany the release of new movies.” So, this is my feelings on the Rogue One TK. On the issue of the Remnant TK (RTK), all of you have done a great job describing the differences between the ROTKs and the Remnant TKs. My perspective on this is that JF and DF were given access to the what LFL had on had for the costumes. This most likely was the reason we see RO armor with OT helmets. We also know that the Black Series helmet was widely used in the Mandalorian series. This mismatch of armor and helmets is most likely due to what was available and not an intentional desire to establish a new costume. The weather was intentional and intended to present a distressed appearance contributing to overall feeling of the collapse of the Empire. I really do not have a dog in this fight since I will not be building a RTK; however, I do see the value of establishing a separate CRL for this costume. The real challenge will be in deciding what is Level 1 and what is EIB and Centurion level kits for this CRL. I spent a lot of time tackling the ROTK CRL update and still opted to omit a few things for the EIB and Centurion levels because they were just not practical for members to do. The example I like to provide for this is the peg holes in the soles of the boots on the ROTK. We can clearly see these homage easter eggs design elements in screen captures but asking 501st members to replicate this detail was not realistic. In the end, opted for the 30-20-10 foot approach. Level 1 would look correct at 30 feet, EIB at 20 feet, and centurion at 10 feet. This made the CRL achievable for most people and provided enough detail for the costumes to be Rogue One specific. We all know that the OT CRLs are quite specific and go as far as determining what types of strapping and rivets are used. From what I have learned, this is primarily due to the level of references available to the CRL developers over the years. Yes, we have had a lot of additional references since the release of Rogue One but we (or at least I) have also tried to remain focused on what you can see about the armor and not get into the weeds with how the armor is assembled. If we were to take a purest approach to the ROTK like the OT CRLs, then all the ROTK armor should be made from the same materials used for the screen kits and made in the same process. Again, this is would be extremely difficult for the most skilled 501st members and near impossible for the majority of us. Like I previously said, my goal for the ROTK CRL was to correct a few inaccuracies and develop a CRL that was approachable to most members. I would recommend this approach for the RTK CRL if it is to be developed.
  7. Jason, also if you recall from one of my comparison posts (I don't recall which), on a display set of screen used armor showed that they used the same type of shock cord to close up the thighs and biceps. I would assume this is also true for the forearms and most likely the shin armor. Since we do not see the cutouts (the "J" cutout on the bicep to attach the shoulder) on these others armor parts we can assume the shock cord is completely internal on these others parts. Again, I believe the shock cord is attached on the inside of the armor for these others parts like the inside of the bicep pic from Pauls shore trooper armor. I am not suggesting you do all your extremity armor like this but if you decide to do so, I would argue that you would have one of the most correct sets of ROTK armor.
  8. Ben, it sounds like you are on the correct path. Jason is correct that there is no one answer, as long as everything is proportional to your build, you will be fine. In the end, the overall look of the armor and its correct appearance in proportion to the wearer is what matters. Jason, on the rubber belt idea, I know that a lot of the clone trooper have rubber belts, I am not sure the rubber would look "shiny" enough to blend with the armor and then there is the how to keep it clean. I have had to deal with these issues with my urethane shoulder straps and just about all the flexible materials (rubber or urethane) attract stuff to them that seems to stick to them like static cling. These are not really issues for the clones since their armor is based on animated or CGI armor. I do know that Smooth-On makes a glossy plastic like coating but I have not investigated if it would stick to the urethane or rubber or silicone and would not crack if flexed. Surely, this is something to investigate and possibly something to produce for sale. I would be interested to see what you come up with. I am slammed with project ATM or I would spend some time looking into this. Good idea.
  9. Well um.... Holy Crap! that is outstanding. I am curious to see how the TPU holds up over time. I planned on doing something similar but using 1/8" like this: https://sgtknots.com/products/marine-grade-dacron-polyester-shock-cord-1-8-inch?variant=33429745205334&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=3264755776&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_grp=116536717349&hsa_ver=3&hsa_kw=&hsa_tgt=pla-393927913855&hsa_mt=&hsa_ad=494912717198&hsa_src=u&hsa_cam=12189948699&gclid=Cj0KCQjw38-DBhDpARIsADJ3kjmvW2i6LSaYmsyetQpFWDAvjMWso2vNMsMSB6VGCi5L1I3HfR4CbE0aAugREALw_wcB One suggestion is to beef up the cut out areas of the bicep. I am concerned (given the cracking issues) that the fiberglass of Jims kit may not hold up over time where the cut outs are. I would think backing the area with "actual" fiberglass and using the glass fiber material would strengthen it enough. Another option may be to rough up the inside and back it with a thick layer of PC-7. Regardless, this is looking Awesome brother.
  10. Justin, the roster has been updated and congratulations brother. Let me know when you get the nod for the EIB and I will update again. Jeff
  11. Wow, I am off the internet for a few days and get swamped with notifications. Justin, thank you for chiming in. Jake04, Justin is correct the helmet for this build was a Jimmiroquai helmet and they come unfinished. It is possible to modify a Black Series helmet to look very much like this on. There is a link to my mod in my signature (ROTK BS MOD). another option is to purchase the 3D print files from Nico Henderson, his helmet is very accurate. tat2trooper, thank you but this kit has been finished for some time; although, I am always updating it.
  12. TK 14166, you have been updated, Congratulations and welcome brother.
  13. Jason, to be honest, I have never needed to remove the frames so I do not believe it was worth the effort. In fact, on the BS mod helmet, I just glued the fabric inside the helmet. The whole idea came to me when I placed the blue fabric inside the helmet and realize that the fabric did not conform to the rounded shape of the inside of the helmet. specifically, the space between each tube cutout, the frame held the fabric to a specific shape. If i was doing it again, I would just glue the fabric in place and not mess with the frames. Each frame was fabricated from a piece of HIPS that was .09 thick. I also made mounts that were two pieces of HIPS stacked and off set to provide a lip to hold the frame in place. Then I glued the mounts inside the helmet. The tricky part was finding a place to glue in the mounts that allow for the frames to be slid in and out based on the inside contour of the helmet. Remember, Jims kit is designed with clamshell in mind. I would avoid glueing and y of the two halves of the extremities together and instead use elastic on the inside between the two halves.
  14. Jason, congrats and I look forward to this build. 1. Jims lenses are completely approvable. They are slightly convex. As I have said a few times now, the CRL was not intended to scare away anyone with near flat lenses, it was to discourage anyone trying to use the bubble lenses from the OT. 2. As far as I am aware of, I am the only Centurion ROTK and I believe there is me and one other who are EIB ROTK. 3. Paint, my vote is for White loss spray paint. 4. Strapping yes, following Kyle's method is my recommendation (obviously). 5. I do not recall if a blast was required for EIB or Centurion but I do recall that if you have one it must have the metal D-ring. I really don't know why this is even a question though, a Stormtrooper without a blaster is like screen doors on a submarine. Get a Pretorian Blaster and you will be G2G. 6. Re-read through my build thread again. Back when I did my build, I followed a few suggestions to accurize the armor from others. I believe, I mention them when I did something to the armor that altered it significantly, (things that stick out were: moved the shoulder boxes for the shoulder straps on both the chest and back.) Good luck with the build brother, and have fun with it.
  15. DarthBiscuit, Outstanding brother! I have updated the roster.
  16. So what i do is use a pice of 1/8 thick HIPS or some other plastic cut about 1" wide and 1.5" long. I drill a hole in the center then attach the 2 sides of the four part snaps to through the hole. Then I sand the back side of the plastic and the inside of the armor where I will be gluing the snap. Then i use CA glue and attach the plastic with the snap to the inside of the armor. Then i mix up some PC-7 and apply it to the top and sides of the snap plastic (keeping it away from the snap) and blend it with the armor to produce a nice bond. The advantage to using HIPS is that it can be heated and shaped to conform with the inside of the armor.
  17. Congratulations Jason, I will update the roster. Outstanding work.
  18. Jason, I understand the issues with cracking and paint wearing. I still say the rattle can is the way to go, when its all cleaned and filled, a respray is an easy thing to do with the rattle can. If I decide to respray my ROTK, I will need to do a lot of masking and sanding since its automotive paint and clear coat. As for giving up on this armor for approval. I recommend you check out my build thread on Pathfinders, here:http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21220-11b30b4-shoretrooper-wip-mr-pauls-3d-print-files/ Ignore all the mistakes and look at the second page abdomen and how I reinforced the inside along all the seams. In the future, I am hoping for some reasonably priced software that can be use to cut up slt files and automatically apply different joints to the parts. here is avideo of something in the ball park of what I am talking about. Everything I have found that can do this is either too expensive or way too complicated currently. I really feel this will be a huge enhancement over just gluing parts together. Anothing thing to consider is the type of filament you use. Mr. Paul uses a carbon fiber filament for his printed armor and he has a video of him flexing the abdomen open and closed and its extremely resilient. He also uses an industrial MEK glue that is expensive. I got some of the glue and tried it on PETG but it didn't work near as well as gel CA glue. In the end I think if you reinforce your armor on the inside, clean it up, fill the cracks and retouch the paint you would be good to go for trooping and approval. Believe me when I say I was hugely disappointed after only one parade and found a ton of damage to my ROTK. Its nearly impossible to keep these kits in tip top shape unless you had a kit that was cast from the same stuff the screen used kits were made from.
  19. Sly11, I keep hearing people refer to the FO Stormtrooper armor whenever we learn something new about the Rogue One armor. Id be willing to go out on a limb here and say that there is more in common than different from the ROTK and the FO Armor kits.
  20. Jason outstanding work. Yes PC-7 is amazing. For your viewing pleasure here are two quick PC-7 videos. The first one (machining PC-7) was what sold me on this stuff a few years ago. Filled a hole in metal with PC-7 then tapped it for a screw. Still works perfectly today. The other video shows how once you wet your fingers or the PC-7 you can mold it like clay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eabfILkbkH8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaazrkdTu5w The corset closure came out great and you made a great tutorial. In reference to the two tabs at the bottom of the back cover plate, the original intent was to eliminate the entire kidney section of the CRL since there is not a separate kidney plate for the ROTK unlike OTTKs. That is why it was placed in the abdominal armor section. Making any changes to the CRLs is extremely tedious since the detachment commander must request for the CRL to be open for editing and then make the change. Several people are involved, and it creates a good bit of work for the commander. Since the CRL change, we have asked the commander to unlock the CRLs three times (I think) and I do not believe we need to move this item at this time. I would prefer to wait until we have several significant items to be changed before we ask for another unlock. This issue is simply where it is placed in the CRLs and not an issue of incorrect information, so leaving it where it is should not be an problem. Now to the reason for the inclusion of the tabs. Sly11 is correct that if worn correctly, you should not be able to see the tabs; however, I asked for their inclusion for three reasons. First, we know they exists and are part of the armor. Since Mr. Paul is in the UK and has had access to the designer of all of the Rogue One armor (Glyn Dillon), he has been able to learn a lot about these costumes and how they were designed, produced, and worn. He has incorporated most of this knowledge into his Shoretrooper 3D files essentially making his armor the most accurate available. Although, the Shoretrooper is different in many areas, a lot about the armor is the same with the Stormtrooper. Here is a screen capture from RO showing the tabs. In this seen the tabs have come loose and sit on top of the back belt rather than behind it, this is most likely due to the movement and was unintended. It is believed that the tabs for the Stormtrooper are cut down compared to the shore trooper and simply tuck behind the back hard belt rather than actually attach to the back belt like they do for the Shoretrooper. This is most likely because the back armor on the shore trooper does not come down as far as it does on the Stormtrooper. Here are some pics from Mr. Paul’s Fb page of his design of the Shoretrooper back plate and back hard belt assembly. I hope this clears up any questions or issues. Feel free to hit me up if you have further questions.
  21. Ok so the gap above the tab not the box. Well also consider that my armor is Jimms design and still has many issues that are not exactly “screen accurate”. This gap being one of them. Actually, the screen used kits did not have this gap. Instead, there is a similar gap on each side of the tab and along the bottom of the box seen in these pics: Although, these gaps look like holes they are actually just depressions that got filled with dirt and that is why they are black or brown. Although these boxes are made separate from the back plate, they are glued on and do not come off ( at least I have not found any proof that they unsnap of come off) unlike the shoulder strap buckles on the front of the Shoretrooper. The back of the Shoretrooper uses similar or more likely the same strap boxes. This pic from Mr Pauls Shoretrooper build should help shed some light on what the tabs are and how they work. Although these are the buckles and not the boxes, I believe the principal is the same. Also, you mentioned the placement of my back boxes. On the Jim kit they were originally much higher near the top edge of the armor. I moved them down closer to the large OII box. In this pic you can see how they are less than 1” from the end of the large OII box taper (red circle). I will admit that my armor extends much further over my shoulder than the screen used armor (Yellow Circle). And in this pic you can see more of a top down view of the box and the back plate. On a side note, notice the hole cutouts on the bottom of all the boots (in the center of the sole). This was an Easter egg added to all the screen used kits as a nod to the peg hole in the original Kenner action figures. We considered including this into the level 3 CRLs but felt it was a bit much since no one makes boots with the hole in the sole. The belt looks great. I would recommend that the tabs get slightly angled to make it easier to align them with the ab detail and the screen used belts were slightly angles so each tab is more like a tooth rather than a rectangle. I forgot to nudge you when I posted the pics on Kal Akaan’s WIP on us forming the back belt. Sorry about that… Anyway, keep up the great work.
  22. Jason, I am not sure what hole above them you are referring to, perhaps its the holes from how I originally attached the shoulder straps. Back box pics Chest box pics Sorry the armor is so dirty. I think the idea for the Velcro on the gloves was as you suggested. All of your update pics look good; however, you may run into an issue with the mesh on the Hovi mics. It looks like the mesh holes are a little large. This is the correct size mesh: This looks to be a close match but not sure from the pics. https://www.amazon.com/TIMESETL-Stainless-Steel-Woven-Wire/dp/B07K8NTC94/ref=asc_df_B07K8NTC94/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312243985851&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6488589743034915043&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010776&hvtargid=pla-606177998854&psc=1 I got my Hovi Mics off Etsy and they came with the correct mesh. Here is the link. https://www.etsy.com/listing/245863441/star-wars-screen-accurate-11-hovi-mix?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=Star+Wars+Screen+Accurate+1%3A1+HOVI+Mix+Pa2+Stormtrooper+Helmet+Mic+Tip+Aerators&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&sca=1 Lastly, I airbrushed the black lines on my helmet. I masked off the small 1/16" gap then airbrushed them but you could hand paint them. Just mask them off well so you dont get any bleed and the lines will look good. Keep up the great work.
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