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And... I have submitted my pictures!! Now I anxiously await approval. I still need to secure the Shoulder Bridge elastic in place (decided to do that with Velcro instead of glue) and I need to add some Velcro to the right shin and boot, it stays put until I do an action pose. It comes back into line but just not all the way. The left shin doesn't move but I'll add some Velcro to it too. Running To-Do List: Drill/install snaps in ab for belt Build Belt Glue on Shoulder Bridges Velcro Shoulder Bridge elastic in place Glue in snap plates for Shoulder Bell to Shoulder Strap connection Glue in snap plates for Shoulder Bell to Bicep connection Reposition Bicep Hooks Reshape Shins & Back Plate at Shoulders Glue in Shin Magnets and Covers (Temp. Countermeasure for Covers in place) Final thigh test fit for upper thigh trimming Glue in snap plates for Thigh Garter System Glue on Silicone Hand Plates Install Sniper Knee Plate () Submit Application/Pictures to GML Submit Member Application Hopefully be able to sign up for 9/28 troop () Make any necessary changes & submit EIB Application Make any necessary changes & submit Centurion Application  Start next build 

Well I've had that itch for a while now, needed to crack open a box of crispy white ABS and smell the burnt plastic in the air, luckily I have been commissioned to build an ANH Stormtrooper for a fellow member so I thought I would also share it here. This is a set of ATA armour purchased by a local member (Jerry) recently from another one of our members (Russell), it's definitely matured as Russell had purchased the kits just before I joined the legion over 6 years ago, it was talking to Russell about these sets of armour that prompted me to join. So anyway here we go, time to start trimming. First I like to mark trim lines with a pencil, easy to rub off again. Being ATA it is a little thicker ABS than most other armor so I like to use a rotary tool with a cutting disk to roughly trim. Time for the first cut For those pieces having cover strips added, arms/biceps 15mm, thighs/shin fronts 20mm and backs 25mm, divide by 2 and you have how far you need to trim from the outside ridge. Here is the first thigh so 1/2 of 20mm is 10mm, so measure from the curve section ends on the top of the ridge by 10mm. I like to use a steel ruler and clamps to get a nice straight line. As this is a build for Jerry I'm going to leave some extra material on the backs of pieces for a test fitting, I prefer to have the fronts a standard size and adjust the rears if needed, you can always trim off but it's hard to add on . I like to use a sanding drum attachment to get excess ABS off. Also go around all the edges with some fine sandpaper to get rid of any sharp edges, you don't want "armor bites" Then to get those lines really straight a long sanding block. Normally I would trim everything in one go but due to some issues with my hands I find it's easier to take a break from trimming and do some assembly. On to assembling the thighs, I use some painters tape and clamps to fit the pieces together to make sure they align well top and bottom. Then tape across the centres to pull them together. You can then lay a piece of tape down the length of the inside of the thigh. Pull off the outside tape and make sure you rough up the pieces with some sandpaper where the cover strips will fit. Time to make some cover strips. I like to use one long ruler and another to measure widths, mark with a pencil, then score down 3 or 4 times, you can then snap the piece off. Lay the cover strip on top of thigh and mark then trim length and round the corners to take away the sharp edge. When you are happy you can then add some E6000 glue down the middle of the cover strip, spread with some scrap ABS and with clamps and magnets apply to thigh. I also like to use painters tape on any sections that don't pull down quite enough. As I said earlier I won't be gluing the backs until we have had a trial fit. Not going to bore you will assembling every single piece, besides when I'm on a roll I tend to forget to take photos Continue with the other thigh, then shins, biceps and then forearms. Just make sure you have the correct width cuts and matching cover strips. Well isn't that just life, just when you think everything is going to plan BANG and a cloud of smoke in your face There was nothing I could do, so alas it's with a heavy heart that I must report the passing of a very dear friend. We have gone through the good times and the bad, so many happy moments, the day you first came home, opening the box, that smell of new plastic. It wasn't all good times though, we did hit a rough patch, I sometimes expected too much from you, a week turn around FOTK armour build was a little too much for you, thinking I had lost you but all you needed was some new brushes, thank goodness that is all it was. I haven't been able to use you much over the last 12 months and I feel I have neglected you, I'm sure it was just too much for you to start another armour build. I'm sorry Ozito, you will be dearly missed, you where more than just a knock off Dremel rotary tool, you where my friend. RIP Ozito 24th September 2018 And with that it's time to call it a day

Looking fantastic, Glen, and great detailed pics! I really like the idea of using a long sanding block on the straight edges... brilliant! Although I send my sincere condolences for Ozito, that could very well be one of the funniest photos I have seen in a long, long time.

He wasn't told he couldn't, he is choosing not to on this build. I would suggest building for Centurion even if you don't apply for it. It is easier to build for it than to make the changes later. So far as the velcro it sounds like he was just adding a layer of E-6000 to the sticky parts of the velcro. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

The corners of both ab button plates should be squared off, Lorelei. Rounding them off may be a little more aesthetically pleasing, and honestly will not make a big difference for approval, but for screen accuracy the corners should be at a sharp 90 degree angle just as yours is now. When they were constructing the original suits, I imagine they just wanted to get them done and didn't bother with the small details like this. Little did they realize at the time that their handiwork would be scrutinized so much, lol! Here is another example:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2214560615494348&type=1&l=7882c00bd3 Some useful info for the scopes and assembling the kit with the supplied lenses.

Yes, as Tino mentioned there were modified scopes it seems with added lens attachments, some modified internally to make them into microscopes. But the smaller end lens housing (cylindrical part sticking out) was never removed, just those attachments added using the threading on the inside. I know the feeling to want to add realism as much as possible but I would keep the scope end original and try to add just the lens. You can can give it a try though if you want to and order another resin scope from doopy if you decide to go the other way. That’s what I did. I ordered a second scope just in case I destroyed mine during the hollowing process.

So I retired after 22 years in the Army, (Did a tour in Iraq, and was stationed in Kuwait) and I have a question, Does trooping restore some of the lost sense of camaraderie that we all feel after getting out?

Noted

That seems a bit thick, but they can be sanded down to the proper size. This is one of mine. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Congratulations trooper

Congratulations Jose on achieving Centurion

Ty Shanester Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations on achieving Centurion!

Thank you!! Hopefully the EIB application won't be too far behind this.

In that pic, I would move the forearms down a bit. Try to keep the amount of black space between handguard/forearm about the same as the black space between forearm/bicep.

Nicely done - looking great!! :-)

On the last day of my vacation I worked on the End Cap Clip. As many other blaster builders before, I did not have a pin with the right diameter . After searching in the basement I found a cable mount with a nail, which fit perfectly. I used the cutting disc of the Dremel and shortened the nail down until the right size was reached. For the scroll spring I used a ballpoint pen , thanks for the hint again, Tino! The next step I worked on was mounting the grip to the riffle. As the trigger switch needs to be connected to the Arduino mainboard, a hole needs to be hollowed out. The grip itself has been mounted with one screw, provided by T-Jays pack and on screw pin at the end of the grip, to stabilize it. To be able to get more stability on the scope, I will add some pins when the cut scope lens housing will be add again to the scope. Therefor I doubled the thickness of the lens housing. At the end I started with rasping down the resin at the place where the front sight sits. Here you can see the current progress of the blaster Again, thanks for watching and commenting.

Working on the sniper plate shin. Added padding to help line it up In order to get it to fit, I trimmed some of the sniper plate depth (5mm or so). Will the angle be an issue at EIB or Cent? The front has lined up well

Being ex Navy (many years hence) and being on a carrier I was never directly involved in conflicts, but I made friends that I keep in touch with to this day. This also applies to the friends I've made through the FISD. During Celebration in Orlando last year I finally got to meet in person fellow Troopers from literally all over the world I had met here. This tends to be a pretty tight knit (but very welcoming) community, where we help each other out when we can, learn about attention to detail, aim for higher levels, watch each other's backs on troops, etc. Sound familiar? By the way, Thank you for your service!

Welcome back, Jose, and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present. Beautiful job on your build Trooper . We are pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary requirements as set out in the CRL. On behalf of the D.O. Staff,congratulations and welcome to Centurion! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: First, I appreciate you taking care of the various issues and suggestions, sir, especially the right ear trim and those ab/kidney shims which look a LOT better! I know working with ABS paste can be difficult, but you came through in fine style. It was suggested that you move your biceps in close to your chest and back, but I realized that you have some mighty large guns there, brother, and are no stranger to the gym! I see (and appreciate) that you did all you could to reduce the gap by bringing the tops closer to the shoulder bridge, removing the return edge on the shoulder bells, and that they lay flush with the biceps, so you are good to go. Nice work! I have a few more suggestions to give your armor a better overall look, and after seeing the great job you did on the other items I feel sure will take care of these with expertise. One thing I would suggest is that you hit the extra ear bar you painted black with another coat of gray, as it is showing through. A tiny detail and an easy fix, but one that will give you a more polished look! Reference image Your thighs could stand to be raised so that they are closer to the bottom sections of your ab. Removing all (or most of) the return edges on top would give you plenty of room to do this, and it is 100% screen accurate. It would also make them more comfortable for you while walking. Reference image Reference image One last thing... I would replace the rear Chicago screw on your holster connection. It looks as if it is pulling through and may come undone at some point. ("Wardrobe malfunction"). Overall a great job and a fine looking set of armor to add to your collection of SW costumes, sir. (Hopefully you will use this one more than the others when representing the Empire)!

I've flipped them already- I think it's a matter of Google not updating the spreadsheet link- I've been checking into it. I think re-uploading and doing a new link should take care of that. Thanks for letting me know it's still not updating!

If it makes you feel any better, all our costumes (TK or otherwise), are generally a continuing work in progress for the entity of their lives. We're always tweaking or fixing something, or in need of doing so. Part of the adventure!

Thank you!!

Easy peasy approval = great job

Yes!!! This has been a fantastic build. The best part is yet to come - trooping! See you at Centurion

Thanks Greg! It's exciting to finally be to this point! And that's what I'll do.

Looks great, Eric! You might as well Velcro both boots/shins - depending on what you are doing during a troop, they can both shift around a bit. The Velcro does a solid job of keeping them lined up nicely.

I'm a little late to the party, but thought I'd make a suggestion or two, Alex.. The cover strips should be right at the edges of the ridge as seen below: If you haven't glued the biceps yet, I would remove all the return edges on the tops (which will even them out), check for fitment again and then glue them. They will be covered by the shoulder bell and will not be seen anyway. This also applies to the tops of the thighs. Some like the "thick" look it gives to the armor, but they (thigh tops) can cause chafing and "armor bite" in certain areas (especially those in the cod area) if left on. Removing the return edges in these areas will not affect approval at any level, and is actually accurate (as seen in the screen used armor photos below). In some areas (like the tops of the calves, bottom of the thighs, kidney and posterior plates) I would leave it. You are doing the perfect thing by asking questions and posting clear, concise photos before gluing, so keep em' coming. We are here to help, and will help get you to Centurion eventually!

Rat is right on all accounts. It is a personal choice alone to not build for Centurion. Another time with another kit for me and no sweat off my back. That being said, if you have more time and patience... go for it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did not realize this Joseph. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Good luck

For the tube stripes ensure a pencil width from the "cheek" is where they should start.

Now the trigger!!!

Understood. What a shame. Would have been awesome however. No problem. Anytime. You can use CA glue, E6000 or a combination of both. In some cases even green stuff can work like an adhesive. You can use a thin piece from a sheet of spring steel (like in the picture below), or cut a small spring from a ballpoint pen to shape. Well I have come across a few original scopes with some sort of 'enhancement' on the small lens. It was only the ribbed section though, but looked like simply screwed onto the front end. Here is an example. Maybe Brian @Bulldog44 can chime in and tell us more...

Hi Jose! I will be with you shortly, sir... thanks for your patience!

“Time to wire that bad boy up with some electronics lol”… Ukswrath, there may be a time for that in the future but that time is not now. I made the trigger functional in case I decided to do just that in the future. Since most of the parts were glued in place with E-6000, deconstruction to add electronics will be somewhat difficult. DEVOLVER, thank you for the compliment. Update, Well, like I said previously, I did not like who the “D” seal looked so I found a better option. I purchased about 25’ of 7/64” Windshield washer vac tube. This hose is a stiffer and thicker walled rubber tube. So I removed the “D” seal. Next I drilled a small hole for the washer tube to be inserted into the barrel shroud on the bottom near the collar closest to the feed tray. I spread some E-6000 all over the barrel shroud where the washer tube will be wrapped. I locked the starting end of the washer tube in the hole and started wrapping the tube. Keeping constant tension on the washer tube as I wrapped it around the barrel shroud till I hit the end point. I drilled another hole and locked the end of the tube inside the hole. Presto, a better looking T-21. Well that finishes the Rogue One T-21. Thanks for the interest.

The inferno squad armor party really helped me out. Belt is done, fitted everything, made major headway. Won’t need to shim thighs or shins... barely. Decided I’m going for basic approval. This alleviated stress as my height and torso is not conducive for Storm Troopers with this kit [emoji23] and for my first kit, I am happy with just being approved... Got some ABS strips from trooper bay. Moving the rear shin cover strips to the rear of the thighs for more room, and cutting much larger strips for the shin closures. Going to reinforce the insides of legs and other parts with the ABS I bought. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FYI - I've noticed a discrepancy between the information provided in the OT TK spreadsheet and the CRL for ANH Hero and Stunt related to the requirements for the holster. Specifically, the CRL states that ANH Stunt holster should have two (2) fasteners, while the ANH Hero holster should have four (4) fasteners. The provided OT TK spreadsheet has these requirements reversed.

Your photos look a lot like mine when I did my first torso piece fittings. I heard that WTF chest pieces are the smallest out of any of the armors so you may not be able to do this, but I was able to get away with *not* trimming the bottom of the chest armor. I'd make that a last resort because although the return edge on the chest is not required, I think it looks a lot better with it, and recreating it is tough. * Like Luc said, trim the neck even more to bring the entire chest up. You should be able to trim the chest shoulder tabs as well if they're overlapping the back tabs too much after you trim the neck. * Your back piece is sitting too low. Do you see how the tabs are below the tops of your shoulders? They should be above it. Anovos shoulder tabs on the back piece come bent at a pretty severe angle. Most people end up heat bending them to be straighter (so the back sits lower), but them being so bent should work in your favor because it will bring the back piece higher. On my WTF kit I heat bent the back shoulder tabs more to bring the back up. The back is also wide on you - you can heat bend it in to wrap around you more. * Once the back is higher, the overlap on the back and kidney will be less severe, but you'll likely still need to trim it smaller. Trim from the bottom because that cut will be hidden by the belt. * Not sure what you mean about the cod and butt connecting - they don't need to touch - they're connected by an elastic strap. * The back/kidney/butt should *not* overlap at all. They all sit below each other. The torso is a bit of a puzzle because of the way things need to align - as you shift pieces around it affects the rest of how the torso needs to fit together. If you haven't already, take a look at this section of my build thread: I had a lot of the same challenges you did.

Made alot of progress this week,,,, next week ill do the trigger

https://www.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/photos/a.1982700905346988.1073741830.1965760503707695/2112482142368863/?type=3&theater finished new mold for the 1943 M38 scope. Test casting this weekend.

Continuing on.... Next up is the shins. Here's what the untrimmed AP shins look like: The shins were pretty easy to trim up. I used lexan scissors to cut off the extra plastic and went back to the table top belt sander to sand down the curves. Then finished up with a sanding block or dremel if I needed a rounded edge. I did a rough trim first and then sized the shin to my leg. Keeping room for the 20mm cover strip on the front and 25mm for the back. I'll be using velco for the back. I LOVE Cricket's magnet solution for the shins, but I think it's probably not a good idea for a "first-time-builder". When it came to the strip on the rear of the shin piece, I used every clamp I had... I made sure that the rear cover strip attached on the outer side of the shin half and used industrial Velcro with the loops on the cover strip and hooks on the shin portion. I've heard this way the hooks won't grab your undersuit. In this photo I've lifted the outer lip over top of the cover strip to give the adhesive time to dry. Lastly I had to wrestle with the sniper knee plate. I used the "offset" technique of gluing the right half of the shin slightly higher than the left half so that the knee plate isn't lopsided. Then I gave the knee plate several hot water baths to shape the right side (when viewed from the front) so that it better fits the shape of the leg piece. I think it's pretty good. The bottom doesn't really fit snug against the shin but I think all AP kits have this little issue. No one is going to see it anyway because they're never looking "up" at your knee plate. I've started working on the thighs while I wait for the glue to dry. Mark

I forgot to mention, I made a little modification to my clamps. I cut small strips of wood and hot glued them to the end of my spring clamps. This way the clamp pushes down on the cover strip with less chance of pressing on the sides of the armor. The was especially useful for the forearms where the large surface area of the clamp would have hit the sides and not clamped down as well. And now on to the thermal detonator.... This is the untrimmed TD from AP.... And here is after the initial trim... As other people have mentioned, the end caps are a very tight fit. I tried sanding down the main tube a little but that didn't really work. The material that the pipe is made of doesn't really take well to sanding. I found it almost "soft" and difficult to sand. Maybe that's just one of the properties of pipe? It wasn't "hard" and wouldn't sand "smooth" after a course sanding. Luckily I only did less than 1 cm from the edge of one end before giving up on the idea. It turns out the caps DID fit OK, it's just a tight fit and any angle at all will cause them to not slide onto the pipe. After a test fit I found the pipe a little long. My understanding is that the entire TD should be 7.25 to 7.50 inches long with the end caps installed. So I needed to chop a little off the pipe. Luckily (again) my dad's old tools come into play. He had this interesting mitre-box style contraption that holds the saw blade level. Perfect for chopping down the pipe. I followed Ukswrath's build for masking off the areas that will be glued before painting. Then I did the final sanding of the end caps and panel to get everything the right size. As I mentioned in my E11 build....I picked up a (fairly) cheap airbrush off of Amazon. One that hooks up to a tool compressor with a pressure reducing valve. It was only my second time using it but after some tweaking with adjustment screws, I managed to get a reasonably nice flow. Much better than the first time I tried. I was getting a lot of "spitting" of larger drops previously. This time after adjusting the needle I wasn't getting that anymore. This air brush stuff is a lot more complicated than it seems. WAY too many adjustment screws with pretty much no instructions. :-) I thinned down some Humbrol #5 Dark Admiralty Grey Gloss and sprayed on a few light coats. Next I glued on the panel... Then I glued on the end caps. I purchased the TD Clips from Ukswrath. I opted for his "version 2" clips. I posted this on my local garrison and PandaTrooper pointed out that the clips look a bit tall. I hadn't noticed that but now that he mentioned it, they do look a bit tall. The "version 1" clips actually aren't as tall, but they also don't have the bend at the bottom for the belt. I'm not sure what I'll do. For now I'll assemble the rest of the armor and see how I feel about the clips. I may end up replacing them if they still appear too tall once everything is complete. Mark