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About Mupfel

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  • Birthday 07/20/1984

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    Göppingen (Germany)

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    German Garisson

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  1. Going the detailed way, great :-)... Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  2. Nice solution here...! Another small step forward :-)! Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  3. Thanks for the nice words man! This really helps me to get over the thing that just happened :-(. I was soldering the power level leds when the soldering point from the leds decided to fall off. Obviously the soldering iron was hold too long against it. The whole soldering needs to be done again and I need to order a new one. For sure it is not as bad as what happened with the electronics from Dracotrooper, but still very annoying. The upcoming week I need to ask my father in law to help me with the plate from the magazine housing. The one I created broke, as too many wholes needed to be cut in (screws, switch and magnets). The next plate will be made out of Aluminium :-) Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk
  4. After 7 hours, yes, i checked the time, of labeling, soldering and measuring, i am now able to do this forum update. Thanks again to Darcotrooper, he provided the idea of a cristal tube for the barrel, to hold the led stripe. I spent some time in the hardware store and found something similar to the tube – a clear garden hose :-). This one is 2 cm in total (diameter). Because of the screws and the parts that extend into the barrel, the hose gets squeezed in, so that I do not have to mount the hose or the led stripe. This solution is protecting the electronics from water as well :-). To program and load the battery of the blaster, a mini USB slot is needed. I decided to add the slot at the back of the blaster. I think it is a good place for it. Just check yourself… The speaker is placed in the end cap clip… because of the amplifier in the electronics, it is still loud enough that you can hear it from a distance. As a small overview about how many cabling and soldering needed to be done, you can check the following picture... Thanks for reading and commenting!
  5. Thanks for your thought, i thought about this as well already, but i am afraid of a rattling noise inside the tube, from the led strip... Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  6. Next step was cutting off the nozzle to get access to the inside of the barrel. I need to place the led stripe in there, but i am still thinking about how i can mount the led stripe in there. Any thoughts of you guys?
  7. Today i got back to the dovetail... it is no0w sitting so tight that no glue is needed... this also fits into my plan, that, once the blaster is finished, i should be able to remove all pieces without destroying anything, when i need to repair the electronics. Unfortunately, i sew too deep at the dovetail, but meanwhile this can be repaired easily with green stuff :-). Thanks again to Dracotrooper, he helped me a lot with his posted picture! I decided to rearrange the magnets for the magazine, as the switch, which will be mounted soon, would not fit in with the old solution. Now it sits in between and works great. When the magazine was clipped in, i recognized how far the progress of the blaster is, meanwhile :-) :-)
  8. @Dracotrooper, this helped a lot, thanks a bunch! @T-Jay, i had the same thoughts as you. The problem here is, the wodden piece is very thin, so if i would use the screws you are recommending, it probably would break. It already started to show cracks :-(... I removed some material as you mentioned for the screws. For the switch i need to do the same. Probably i need to make this out of metal... Got some progress again today, pictures to come in the eventide... Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  9. Thanks for your comments! Today i started working on the blaster not with the Dremel, i thought about on how i can built the pieces together without adhesive. The goal is, if something of the elecronic breaks, that i can easily access it. So, i started with the magazine well… It should contain the 2000mAh LiPo Accu, two magnets for the magazine and the main power switch for the electronics. After drilling the main hole for the battery, the next step was rasping down the level a bit, that a piece of wood can fit in, which holds the magnets and the switch. To have the possibility to reach the accu every time, the wodden piece is mounted with four screws. The magazine well itself is mounted with a screw as well. By the way, just got my new magazine from Imperial Warfighters from the UK. I need to put a lot of effort into it that it is usable. Can somebody of you guys please tell me on how the magazine need to look like on this side?
  10. I agree with T-Jay, keeping fingers crossed that you have more luck with your lense than with your electronics! Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  11. Now, when adding more and more parts, i am getting more and more excited :-) :-) Don't want to know when i am at the painting stage :-) Well, i stopped counting the hours that i have spent on the wholoe blaster, meanwhile. As on most on the builds here in the FISD, a lot of time is spent. Thanks for your appreciation! Thanks for the hint with the scope position as well, this is corrected now. Added some green stuff into the wrong holes and "basta" :-): After correcting the position of the scope, i read many other builds and the blaster reference again, to check and see, how and where the counter has its position. Hope everything is right :-): Thanks for reading and commenting!
  12. Thaniks man, yes, filling all the gaps and holes with green stuff is a very long and boring work! But you are right, at the end the look will be great. The bar graph i will put here: The power indicator bar will be put in the counter bar. Today i was able to finish the scope and the electrics. Now, the LED is bright enough to be seen from a different angle than just the front. Video on how the Scope works;
  13. While i am waiting that i get the brighter LEDs, i startet to work on the Hengstler counter. Adding the screws from T-Jays pack, filled the bubbles and holes with green stuff and sharpened down the edges... I know, there is one screw stil missing, but i need to know until the green stuff dried.
  14. Thanks, you are right, on that picture it looks great, but, if you look on the scope from a different angle, you cannot really see the light. Just check the picture above the one you quoted. The light is on, but you cannot see it. Once i have the brighter led, i will do a comparison. Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  15. I had some free minutes that i spent to go on with the scope electric. At the end, i found out that the LED i used is not bright enough :-(5mm, cristal clear). The reason for this is the current the battery has. It is operating on 3.7Volts but the LED has a range from 4-6Volts. Thought that it would be bright enough, but it is not. But check on your own... As everytime, thanks for reading and commenting! :-)