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If you cut the tops of the thighs following the blue tape, you will lose the original shape. I have seen many people do this and their thighs look bad. The best way is to mark out the tops of thighs by following the tops vertically, so you keep the original shape. This way your thighs will look the same shape they did before you trimmed them, just shorter.

Ahh yeah rats! Just realised after looking at those photos! Easy to fix though!

I'm not on computer at the moment but here are some images of adding V tabs With a heat gun (or hot water bath) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V with tabs, only glue the bottom side and the top remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

Here are some pics before I mask, prime and paint. I think it's finally ready.

Mark, I will post pictures as I go along prior to any trimming. I have only trimmed to the guide lines so far.

I would definitely agree with trimming from the top. Follow the shape and contour of the top edge and trim down. The screen used suits had no return edge so you are fine to remove it. Align the two halves at the bottom and leave the ridge intact. Trust me it will work out fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Andreas, I am sorry you are having so many issues with your build. I started an 850 AW kit last year along with a Sandtrooper backpack from Rogue One. The goal was to build a Rogue One Sandtrooper. I finished the backpack and got started on the abdomen and box belt on that kit but have since sold it to a friend who will be building a ROTK with it. Here is the link to what I accomplished so far: http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/topic/16485-11b30b4’s-rotd-build-pack-and-armor/ I made 3D print models of most of the detail parts for the abdomen and back plate and those are scaled for the 850AW kit and are freely available on my thingiverse page here: https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs I did not notice if you had a helmet already or not. Nico Henderson on Facebook has recently designed a RO helmet that also comes with all the parts to do a blast shield for a Mimban if you decide to go that route. I have his Shoretrooper helmet and it is most likely the most accurate version available. I also purchased the Stormtrooper helmet from him but I have not printed it yet. I hope some of this can be helpful and please let me know if I can help out in any way.

Kit is from rs prop master

A few links, a couple missing images but should give you an idea https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41250-ear-trimming-made-easy/

Thanks! Yes I met Gary Jr and Sr at the last armor party he had a few weeks ago. Both Gary's are "wizards" at this stuff. At the time I ddn't have my armor so it was more of a look and watch and ask questions for me. Thanks for the encouragement!

I’m close to your size at 5’ 10” and 185lbs. I ordered a complete suit from stormtrooper undersuit.com in a Large and it fits great. A little snug on me but should fit you just fine. The total shipped to Colorado was $88.19 The shiny shorts are built into the suit. Sent from my iPhone using The Force

I was referring two the two pieces, helmet (top and neck to the face), where right around the trapezoid above the ear, there's a small gap that allows room for the rubber forehead seal. I used a little bit of heat to close it off. It doesn't bother as much now. That sounds pretty nifty - unfortunately I had set the e6000 for the elastic belt - If it doesn't look good I'll give the V-tabs a shot. Do you keep the backfacing part of the tabs white? Would show at all when bending over?

Yep

According to his other topic he already ordered (from RS so it looks like he read that topic alteady)

I could tell right away that you have AM armor, Steve, and it looks like you have done a great job on it so far! Keep the photos coming and always feel free to ask any questions you have, no matter how small. One thing I would HIGHLY suggest is to get in touch with Gary jr. (whistle nut) there in the Makaze Squad. The guy is an absolute wizard when it comes to TK armor, and if he holds one of his famous armor parties at his "TK sweatshop" in Clermont it would be wise to attend. You can check the Makaze Squad boards or PM him directly here. I have known he and his wife for years (and his dad)... good friends and awesome people. Tell him Joseph sent ya'.

You have some fantastic advice there, Thomas... this armor is looking better and better! If I could expand and add a few things, they would be: 1. As mentioned, the shoulder bells should be more evenly spaced in the front and back. SO glad to see that you removed the return edge from the bottoms of them! I would suggest taking Mario's advice about getting a tighter fitting under suit before final fitting. The excess material can (and will) affect the way your armor fits. At some point you will need to install the interior bicep straps, which along with the bell/bicep connecting strap will help keep them in place. 2. It looks as if you are leaning slightly to the left in the first photo. If possible, try to stand as straight as possible for fitting. 3. As seen in the third pic, I'm sure you are aware that the rear tops of the thighs will need to be trimmed, and the bottoms should be level (easy strapping adjustment). 4. Also in the third photo the posterior plate tab (green arrow) will need to be connected to the cod with a strap. But, (unintentional pun) when you do that the sides may flare out a bit (if so, this can be remedied). The red arrows show where you will be getting stress. Depending on how much return edge you have and the angle they are cut at will affect this. Note in the screen used plate how there is a crack at that point. Sharp angles anywhere will eventually lead to splits.. and making sure the angle has a slight curve will help prevent this. Incredible job so far, Thomas, and I applaud you for posting so many photos and keeping up on this thread!

I use a technique where you attache a 2B pencil to an eraser or small piece of wood with an elastic band. You then run the block around the outline of the top of thigh and scribe a line in the exact same shape as the original shape you simply hold the block and pencil at a 90 degree angle angle so the tip of the pencil contact the surface and away you go. You can use the same technique to shorten the shins from the bottom. I'll get a photo up when I have a minute and it will make perfect sense.

Hiya, What do you mean by “helmet to face gap”? Regarding the brow height, the thread was really intended to show that the majority of stunts helmets seen on screen (I’d guess more than 90%), including many hero helmets, had a visible gap between the eyes and the brow (this doesn’t automatically mean a high brow, just a clear gap)- so, as per your latter conclusion, more of a mid brow for stunt based on the many screen references. No one will enforce this and lots of troopers do go for the brow touching the eyes because, as you mentioned, they feel it looks more menacing. Personally, I like how they looked in the movie - that’s what got me interested in stormtroopers. So, for me, I make mine to look more like the 90%+ seen on screen rather than the few. Your helmet looks great how it currently is, by the way. :-)

This exactly, always trim off only half of what you need and check, then if you still need to trim more, readjust. Easy to remove , impossible to out back and have it look perfect.

Hi First make sure the thighs are at an even hight (in the pic they are not) and that they are centered (right looks to be slightly rotated inwards, backview). Dropping the left and rotating the right might be all that’s needed but a front pic would help to make sure that don’t create a too big of a gap between the cod and thighs. I would start there

Definitely from the top and as per the picture you csn use painters tap to trace out the correct curve and use this as a guide when trimming. But as with all trimming best to start off small and take off more as you go. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Trim top of thighs its the only altenative, just use some painters tape as a guide following original curvature and trim 1" inch off all around should be good, you cant trim bottom make no sense you would alter the whole ridge design, you can also trim 1-2" bottom of shin guards so they sit lower if you need more knee/joint clearance. Mark (AP)

Not sure what you mean by "trim the cod to be less like an athletic cup" looks perfect the way it is, if you followed the trim line thats the way iit should look, before over trimming anything make your research as theres no going back Mark (AP)

If you cut the bottoms how are you going to keep the lower ridges? Most trim the tops. Perhaps some photos could be of help for us to give feedback Here's a few links which may be of help for trimming the tops: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12972-howto-make-a-return-edge-on-armor-using-a-heat-sealing-iron/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11836-how-to-make-thigh-tops-anh-style/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13513-anh-thigh-tops-on-am-armor-craziness/

Troop 17 TK-10867 GalaxyCon Richmond Va February 29 & March 1 2020 Garrison Tyranus Eastern Sienar Fleet Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I would also suggest a full kit up before doing any trimming, you don't want to look out of proportion, it's easy to take off but a little more difficult to put back on Adjusting the ab circumference can also adjust how the chest and back sit and may change the angle of pieces so keep an eye on that too.

For undersuit I use compression shirt and pants, the fabric tends to keep you cooler at hot events, I added elastic loops on the ends of the sleeves and pants to help keep them down when putting on the gaskets. For the gloss black short section I found some shinny shorts on eBay (but these are only required for level 2, Level 3 clearance)

Makaze Squad Awards Night: 3/1/2020 Received the Squad Rookie “Shiny” of the Year Award! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey @justjoseph63 - not for public sale just yet, just starting a support thread for some local guys and in case I DO end up opening runs to FISD members. So no prices or ordering info just yet. If I reach that point again (maybe this summer after finishing my cancer treatment) and am actively selling these, I will absolutely start a new thread in the correct place with all that in mind. Thanks for looking out, but please disregard this thread for now

Troop 021 -- 2020/02/29 -- Greater Kansas City Regional FIRST Robotics Competition, Lee's Summit, MO

Yes it is. These are above and beyond what the abs ones looks like. I also have the resin belt boxes, clip greeblies, and the holster. I really like them all. So much better than the abs ones that came with the kit. Sent from my iPhone using The Force

Decided to do some helmet reshaping and bolting. I wish I took some before photos - but I think I made a more flush fitting assembly - plus had a little polish. EDIT: Found old left ear EDIT: Found old right ear I decied I'll redo the vocoder, attempting an edge clean up didn't feel efficient.

Unfortunately, the holes drilled for the inaccurate scope that came with the gun sits right where I need to mount... Need to strengthen up the area before I drill the holes for the vmusicstore scope. Hope this JB Weld will hold up!

Good idea - tough work trying to put this on by myself, so please excuse my left shoulder bell, I couldn't reach over to strap it. I think I could get the belt a bit tighter to cinch up the ab plate with the kidney... I may have put on weight in the past 2 years... LOL Also - any advice on getting the butt plate to sit closer to my body (I have Hugh Jazz) would be much appreciated!

Hi Y'all, Thought I'd share my experience with those frustrating shins and what I came up with to make them easier to get in and out of. I'd like to disclose that I have only really studied UKSWRATH's Anovos TK Build Guide and Russellr2d2's ATA Armor Build so it is very possible someone else has been doing the same thing all along but my buddy said he'd never seen it and encouraged me to post it. If it is old news, sorry to waste your time. My shins are an extension of Russell's slot idea http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29569-ata-armor-build-my-first-tk/page-8 (or whoever came up with it before him, that's where i saw it). I tried it like his with the channel down the middle and the velcro tabs at the top and bottom keeping it together but my shins were tight and i could never get my fingers in there easily enough to secure or unsecure the velcro. A great idea but an exercise in frustration for me. I thought it might be easier to swap out the velcro tabs for magnet tabs. I bought some thin earth magnets and designed and printed 3d straps using ninjaflex (rubber) on my 3d printer. I also made rubber keepers for the non-strap side which I glued onto the inner shins where the fuzzy velcro was. The hardest part was finding a glue that would hold the magnets to the rubber and i ended up having the most success with G-Lock BLU-GLU archery fletching cement. I tried several different attachment points as you can see my messy insides but the final setup seems to work pretty well. For the inside of the channel, I used an extra wide strip to make it stronger and easier to line up the cover strip. I guess the rest is self-explanatory. Here are some pics and a video of the enclosure in action.

Not sure what you mean? Eyes look fine to me For back of shins they should be 25mm, did you perhaps get them mixed up?

a while ago they were on the "page 1"-list, too. Thanks god i stayed to OTTK armor and was able to use RS which was a bit faster than their estimate, too (got the "ready for shiping, pay last part of payment plan" mail out of the blue since i expected 2 more weeks of wait.

While I did search this thread, I didn't realise Headshot Props would be buried on page 13/14. I have now read the post and the attached PDF.... (I even searched their name on the entire forums, and this thread didn't come up! Hopefully for those who come after me to look........) Headshot Props - Head shot Props - HSP How disappointing! What the hell is this unprofessionalism?!? So recent too?? I've heard good things about them from my Mando friends, and because of this 'over confidence' / 'reassurance' I had placed an order. (R1 TK Helm)I can say though, that none of them ever ordered, or preordered helmets / kits. Their Etsy site aswell, the only negatives I had seen were "slow shipping". r/501st and FISD while old, showed user interest in the armorer aswell. (They listed on the R1 TK Part lists) Separating the awful... Unprofessionalism... from the actual products they sell... While no way an excuse, perhaps its a telling sign... not to trust pre-orders? (From what I'm seeing on Adams PDF. Mentions of creating the molds for the kits. If i understand correctly?) ANOVOS couldn't do it. The news is full of companies failing to provide products for preorders. All in all, thank you for giving me notice of this. I'll be keeping a very very VERY close eye on dates and communications, to make sure I do not suffer the same issue Adam did. While I could be thought as 'Nieves' / 'Stubborn', I will not be pulled around on a thread, and will have no problem with contacting Paypal before the refund expires. Hopefully, selling helmets already cast, is something Headshot Props is capable of doing, as their Facebook, Etsy and Mando fans say..... I'll keep posted.

HeadshotProps got a blacklist entry here (read the who to avoid topic here ==> )

Wow. They take your money, don’t deliver and then make out you’re being threatening. What a bunch of immature twats.

Thank you for bringing this here Adam, warning other members of bad business practices like this is of great help to the community. Sorry to hear of your unfortunate situation and we shall look at adding them to our buyer beware list.